amann group – 2010 seite 1 anita buzengeiger-mahncke / matthias schmidt sewing advisory and...
TRANSCRIPT
AMANN GROUP – 2010 Seite 1
Anita Buzengeiger-Mahncke / Matthias SchmidtSewing Advisory And Product Service
Hauptstraße 1 / 74357 Bönnigheim / Tel: 07143 277 250 / Fax: 07143 277 460 / [email protected]
Basic Sewing Threads
AMANN GROUP 2010
Influences to sewing process
MachineSewing thread
Handling
Fabric / Lining
Needle
Nähtechnischer Service
Quality In Sewing Thread
Knots and thick places
Tenacity (breaking strength)
Sliding charakteristics
Shrinkage
Abrasion resistance
Colour (tone and fastness)
Lubrication
Elongation
Twists (Thread and yarn twists per meter)
Density
Sewabitity
Thread analysisThread
analysis
AMANN GROUP 2010
Raw materialRaw material
AMANN GROUP 2010
AMANN GROUP 2010
Raw material
Determination of raw material through burning test
Polyamide (PA) (called Nylon)
Cotton (CO)
Silk (SI)
- smoke: heavy black - flame: high blazed - remainder: black melting
- smell : sharp, penetrative
- smoke: mostly white, blazed- flame: blazed and dropping, brown- remainder: brown melting, liquid
drops- smell: aromatic (like celery) - flame: quick burning, bright- remainder: light ashes- smell: like burned paper
- flame: blazed- remainder: cindery, grindable - smell: like horn or hair
Polyester (PES)
Be careful!
Itecm Natural fibres Chemical fibres
Raw materials Cotton Polyester Polyamide
Optical appearanceMatt gloss, can be
improved by mercerization
The optical appearance can be changed by using optical brighteners, dyeing, profiles of fibers, texurizing
and making of special types of fibers
Tenacity - + ++
Elongation - + ++
Abrasion resistance - + +++
Dyeing performance ++ o (only high pressure:
app. 135°C /app. 4 bar)++
Colour fastness - ++ +
Light fastness - ++ -
Melting pointapp. 320°C
Heat for selfburningca. 256°C 215 – 252°C
Chemical resistance - OK against acidOK against soda /
hydrooxide
Raw Materials
AMANN GROUP 2010
Why mostly threads made of chemical fibres are used today?
Characteristics are adaptable to different applications
Constant quality
„Custom-made fibres“ (fibre according to requirements)
Yarn evenness
High breaking strength and abrasion resistance
Raw material
Twist direction
Twist direction
AMANN GROUP 2010
AMANN GROUP 2010
Thread – direction of twisting
S-winding Z-winding
Number of pliesNumber of plies
AMANN GROUP 2010
AMANN GROUP 2010
2-plies 3-plies 4-plies
Z
S SSS
Z
SSS
Z
SS
Amount of plies
Thread construction
Thread construction
AMANN GROUP 2010
Spun threads (Cotton, Polyester, Nomex©, Kevlar©, ...)
Sewing thread constructions
Cotton
Chemical fibres
N-techK-tech
Belfil-S
Monofilament (Polyamid)
TRANSFIL
Sewing thread constructions
Continous filament (Polyester, Polyamide, Nomex©, Kevlar©,…. )
Sewing thread constructions
SyntonISACORD 40
Core spun threads
Polyester & Cotton
Polyester & Polyester
Sewing thread constructions
Texturized threads (Polyester, Polyamide)
Sewing thread constructions
Herzlichen Dank für Ihr Interesse!
Muchas gracias por su interés!
Grazie mille per il Suo interesse!
Merci beaucoup pour votre intérêt!
akujem Vám za pozornos !
Muito obrigado pelo seu interesse!
Thanks you very much for being interested!
Ilginize tesekkuer ederim !
Спасибо за внимание
AMANN GROUP 2010