Basretto de Resende9s Account of Malacca. BY W. GEORGE ~V'-~X'CVELL.

Manuscript No. 197 of the Sloane collection of manuscripts in the British Museum is Barretto de Resende's " Livro do Estado da India Oriental." The manuscript, which has not gef been published or translated, is divided into chree parts. The first contains port- raits of all the Portuguese Viceroys from Franciso de Almeyda, the first Viceroy, to Doln Miguel de Noronhn, the 44t11, in A.D. 1634, mith an account of the Government of each Viceroy.

The second part contains '' the plans of the fortresses fro111 the "Cape of Good Hope to the fort Chaul, with a detailed "description of all that is to be found in the said fortl.esses, " the receipts and expenses of each and evervthing that concerns " them." 111 this part are s plan and clescription of the fortress of Sofala, s map anil description of the rivers of Cuama, a description of the Islancls of Angoxa; plans and descriptions of the fortresses of Mozambique, Mombassa, Curithe,':: Afascate, Matars, Sibo,% Borca, $ Solr, Quelba,$ Corfacam, Libidia, Madas, Dubo-clobn, and Mocomlim ; i\ plan of the fortress of Ormus,"' a rlescription of the Congo ; plnns and descriptions of Bassora :':, and the Island of Baren ; descriptions of Sinde :%ncl the " Kingdom of Cncha and Magana;:' plnns and descriptions of the fortress of Dio, Suratte, Damns, Samgens, Dauu, Trapor, hlaim, Xgassym, Manora, Mount Aserim and Bassaym; descriptions of the Fort of Sayhana, the Fort of Corangangens, Tana snd its ba,stions, Mombayon anil Caranya, and plans ancl descriptions of the mole of Chaul and of Chad.*

The third part of the book contains " the plans of all the " fortresses from Goa to China mith a similar description and "contains also plans of other fortresses not belonging to the " State, they being included as being situated on these coasts and

i "being of interest." I n this part are plans and descriptions

! of " t h e lands and forts of Bardes", Goa, Rachol, Salsete, Onor, Cambolim, Barselor, Mangallor, Cananor, Cunhalle and Cranganor ; a description of Balliporto; p l y s and descriptions of Cochim,

I

I Conlam, Negapatam, San Thome, the Dutch town of Palleacate ", Pulikat ancl the Island ancl Fortress of' Manar; a plan of the island of Ceylon; plans and descriptions of the fortress oE Jafnapatam, Colon~l~o, Calleture, Negunlbo, Qualle, Batecnlou ancl Triquilimale ;

* The accounts of these places will be found (in Portuguese) in the appendix to the fonrth rolume of the Hilliln).t Society's Commental.ies of Afonso Dalboquerclue.

S Notes on the plans of these fortresses state thnt they mere delllolished 2nd abandoned as being-of no use after the book \r:~.s written.

Jour. Straits Br3ncl1 R , A. Soc., No.60. 1911

+I.

n plan of the 3lnlclire Islut~cls ; ;I pl.an ancl ilescrip~ion of the fortress of Nalnccn : plnns of the isle and fort of .4chen1, the Dutch fortress of Jacatra " ( the site of the present city of Batavin ), the i\lInl~~cco lslnncls ancl the Bandn Islands ; plnns and descriptions of the Solor Tslancls and the town of Mncllno;, ancl plans of the Island of Forinosa and the Island and Province of Manilla. I t concludes with notes on the size and extent of various islands.

The manuscript, which consists of 412 folios, sets forth on its first page that it was written by "Captain Pedro Barretto de Resende, Professed Knight of the Order of St. Benedict of Avis.':', native of Pavia, in the year 1646."

Writing in Iiedah, I: regret to be unable to obtain any account of de Rssende's life.

With two or three exceptions the plans are all coloured, and in addition to them the man~~scr ip t contains eight pen and ink char$ signed :-

Petrus Berthelot primum cosmographicnm indicornm imper- ium faciebat anno domini 1635."

Eerthelot mas born in Honfleur in A.D. 1600. H e was for some time a pirate, ~ n c l then hecnn7e a Im-efocted Carmelite monlr. H e went to Goa, and in 1629 was iqq~ointed first pilot to a Purtu- guese fleet sent to defend l\lnlacc.n against the attack of the Icing of Acheen.

H e greatly distinguislled hi~nself and \Yns.given the appoint- ment of Cosmographer Royal of the Indies. After this he made a ntunher of royihges nud prepared charts of the coasts he visited.: H e fell in n massacre, in whicl~ the Portuguese anl,assador \vas also killed, a t Acheen on the 27th November 1635.'"

I t mould appear that the clate, A.D. 1646, given by cle Resencle to his work is that of n, year some years after the date of its lia.c.ing been written. The list of viceroys only goes clown to 1G38. Malacca is written of as a Portuguese possession, whereas it had been surrendered to the Dutch on the 14th January, 1641. There .k are notes on some of the plans ( referred to above j to say that the fortresses of which plans are given hacl been delnolished ancl abandoned " after the book was written." Lastly Bertl~elot tlie cosmographer was murdered in A.D. 1635, or 1638. The pro- babilities would therefore appear to be that the account of Malncca was written a t least before 1638.

* A military order of Cistercians in Portngalinstituted by Ring Alphonso I, in the middle of the twelfth century, to comalemornte the citpture of Evora froin the Moors.

f An account of Berthelot will be fonnd in the 3l;lnuel cle Bibliographic Norinsnde-Vol 1 p. 336. ( Frtre, k'iuis 1850-ISGO) ; cited in the coinmen- taries of Afonso Dalboq~~err~ue ( Hakluyt Societ>- ) 1'01 2-Int~odnction page nVYT CIAAI. * The date of this JInssncre is given in J[nrsden's History of S ~ ~ ~ n a t r a (page 362) as 1G:35. 1658 is per11i1.p~ a nlisl>rint in the Hill;lu).t Society's yoln~ne,

.!our. Straits Braqch

Of the pli-tns, charts, ancl portraits with tvl-licll Bnrretto de Resenile's manuscript is aml~ellisliecl, six have I~een reproduced in the H ~ k l u y t Society's eclition of the Co~n~nenta~. ies of Afonso Dalhoquerc~ae. They are :-

T!le may of Arnlin , in Vol : I. y. 80 The plan of Ortnus , 11.11.2 The portrait of D. Francisco

Dalmeida ,, 11. 11. 4s The chart of Goa ,, 1). 88 The pian of the fortress

of h'ldaccn ,, 111. p. 137 The portrait of Diogo Lopes

de Sequeira ,, p, 254 Gohindo cle Eredia's account of Malacca--the Decla7~ncc~~1z d c

L'lI~~lc~,cn e Indir~, JTkI~?-idio7znF dated A.D. 1613, and translated into French 111 Janssen in -4.D. 1582, is the best lrnown Portuguese work on Malacca, nncl as a coinparison of his account and as Resende's account is interesting, give in an appeud!~ a translation of rle Ererlia's first and fifteenth chapters entitled Regarding the city of i\llalacaW and "Regarding Gu~~oled i~ rn " respectively. I 11:~ve ttan;Iated tlle111 from Janssen's French, and not from the original Portuguese.

- 1

Description of the Fortress of Malacca. Tile forti-ess of Malaccn is situated on tlie east const of Jnn-

t ~ n a between the River Panagim ancl Muar 2' 20' N. lab. I t rvns conqnered and founded by the great Alfonso de

Alhnque~que on the 15th of August 1511. At the present day it

1 is a city, containing a fortress, and surrounded hy a stone and inortar wall twenty feet high, t117elve palms thiclr a t the foot and

.': seven 'at the top.

It contains six bastions, including the breastwork (courapa), / each o?e cn1,led by the ilame written on it. All the walls have

I parapek,, and each bastion occupies a space of tventy paces and the one named Madre de Deos double that space, so that i t can scarcely I)e defended ancl covered by the other l~nstions. The circumference of the whole wall is five hundred and twelve paces, inciucliug the space occupied by the bnstioos. From tlie bastion de Ospital to that of St. Dominic there is a counterscarp, as also from that of Sanctiago to Madre de Deos, with a clitch in the

:!. centre, the cvhole being fourteen palms wide. The bastions contain

' forty-one pieces of artillery of h e l v e to forty-four youncls iron shot. All are of hronze, witll tlie exception of nine iron pieces, and there is sufficient powder ancl a~nlliunition in His Majesty's magazines for their supply. Twelve of the big pieces lie unlnounted on the plain, destined f o ~ the fort in process of building on the Ilha das Naos, nncl some of the ren~aillder are Ixolten. R. A. SOC., NO. 60, 1911

folio 383.

There are in the tomil two llundreil ancl fifty inarriecl whites" who would possess two thousand black captives of different races, all competent to carry arms, of which there is n sufficient supply ; os rarely is a married inan without his supply of lances, and six, eight or ten muskets or flintlocks, with their ammunition. How- ever of these two hundred and fifty married, white men, one hundred live on the other side of the river vhicb gives its name to the land of Malacca.

With regard to the small space within the walls it is almost entirely covered by three convents, that of St. Paul, St. Dominic nnd St. Augustin; and the aforesaid married couples live in straw huts, "0 that there is a great risk of fire. There are in this place a number of f r~l i t gardens and orchards of varied fruits. A number of married native Christians live outside Rfalacca, they are all very good soldiers, and use all kinds of arms, especially muskets, in the use of which they are very skilful. ' I n times of war they are very ready and active: the majority of them seek a means of livelihood. They are so hasty, for very little they will run a 'man through the belly with a cris, and, there is little, if any, cure for the monncl, since these weapons, apart from being generally poisonecl," are so fashioned, in an undulating shape, as to cause great injury: if the weapon is poisonecl, it is only necessary to draw blood to cause death.

folio 583b. The fort within this town wl~ere the Captain resides is five stories high ; the captain lives on the second stoi.ep, whicl~ is square like the tower, each ~va l l being twenty paces wide. The other apartments are set apart for the Captain's gnests, and for storing ammunition. On the first floor four thousand canc1.r-s%f rice n-ere storecl, but are no longer tjhere. I t is surrounded I)y n wall of the same height and thickness as that of the to112n. The Captain's family lives in llouses on a level with the second storey of the tower. The only artillery is that of t h e bastions already referred to. The town receives a duty of one per cent aplilicable to the works of fortification, of which those of the wall are now being completed.

The king of the interior of that conntry where the fortress of Malacca is.situated is the King of J o r 7 and Pain, % great friend

; of the.Portnguese. H e is lord of inore than one hundred leagues of coast, but his lands clo not extend far inland: at sea he also possesses-a chain of islands situated in this vicinity, the majority being inhabited. The peol~le are Malays, and profess the creed of the Moo1.s. They can put twelde thousand men ~f arms into the

10 field; they fight with artilleiy, mi~slrets, assegays,\aligas, or darts of fire-hardened ~vood, swords, shields, bows ancl arrows," crises beforeinentiorecl, and surn]:~itans'\r very small poisoned arrows, which they blow through tubes, and if they draw blood death will ensue. There is no Christain Settlement in their lands. UP the river beyond Rilalacca, the married men own many very fertile orchards, with n great variety of h i t , as the land produces

Jour. Straits Branch

very good fruit of illeny kinds, besides a11 those to I)e found in India, and it is reinarkable that the town, though nearly below the line, has a salubrio~ls climate ':' ancl excellent water, the soil being fertile for any seed that is sown : it reins nearly every day and night. The married inen of A$alaccn possess many leagues of land, estending on one side as far as Cape. Rachado ancl on the other to River Fermozol' and also lllaily leagues in the interior, but all uninhabitecl with none to cultivate the lancl, though i t is fertile and would yield much rice. Inland the land bogers on that of the Mananlcabos, '' Moors of a land called Rinclo, vassals of the King ol Pam, and, close by live five or six thousand of the same blanamcabo I'Ioors, vassals of His PIajesty, under t l ~ e Government of a Portuguese inarriecl inan of Malacca called Tamungam, " an ofice conferred by the Viceroy. To llim they owe obedience ancl should one of these Moors die without heits, the said Talnungaln inherits his property, ?nd if tI1el.e are heirs he makes an agroelnent with them ancl receives ten per cent upon such goods a s he thinks fit. At the present clay a Portuguese llolcls the office for life. These Moors cultivate extensive lands by which they maintain themselves. They especially cultivate the betre. '"hey purchase tin1"from the inhabitants of the interior and bring i t to Mnlacca. The river of this city, and the port of RIalacca is of fresh water and is a stone's throw in ~viclth. At low tide the bar llas a palm and n hslf of water, ant1 in conjunction with the fresh water there is four fingers oL water only, \vl~ich barely covers the mucl ivhicli fol-ms the botton~. At high water there is one fathom four paltns folio 384 of fresh water and five or six lxllms of s:~lt. -4 t a little distance from its mouth the river l~ecomes narrower, and is three ,or four f:~thoms deep; and in some p a r k there is always one fathom \\:hether a t high or low tide. Tl~ere are many lasge carnivorous i~lli,gato~s, for which reason, and because of the mud, it cannot be forded. Along the river and inland there are many orcllar3s belonging both to the married Portuguese and the natives: the Inen live here with their fanlilies cultivating the lncd to great profit. rn l h e r e are many tigers" which before they were exorcised by - a bishop were very fierce, but are now less so. All these married men have their weapons. Half a league up the river a log of wood is thrown across the water at night, the chain being pacdlocked to a sentry-box where stands a Portuguese provided by the city, which pays him six cruzadosa' a month. This is to prevent any forbidden merchandise being smuggled ouL or in from the large vessels lying., at anchor beyond the Ilha dns Naos. For the same reason, order ,

has been given to build a fort on the said island, which does not actually face the city, but lies a little lower down at a distance of one thousand five hundred paces from it. The channel in between is small and not navigable to large ships a t low tide: the water is very shallow, ancl the bottorn is of mud. Further out to sea, lies another sancl-l~auk, and, between it and the island, is a channel six fathoms deep. The island is nearly the shape of a R.IA. Sac., No. 60, 1911.

Iiorseshoe, and is sisty bracas in circunlference, its length is one end a half times greater than its wiclth. I t contains a mountain four or five bracas in height.

The fort which is being built here, for the foundations are already laicl, is small, being thirty paces square. I t is to be square, to n l lo \~ space for the artillery to be separatecl. I t s purpose is to defend the large vessels whicl~ cannot lie under the urtillery of the fortress. As yet only the founclations are laid; the mater i~ls are being gnthered together at ktalaccu so that the whole 1,uilding 111ay be finisl~ecl i ~ t once, l~ecause i f it were built g~i~clually it might fall into the hancls ol the enemy ancl, once occupied b y them, it \~ouIr7 be a great danger to kIalacca.

The briclge shown in the plaii has two abutnlents, each one . L I)eing two and a half bracss in heigl~l;, and the same in length and very narrow, so that there is no danger, as has been suggested, of them affording the means of an attack upon Malaccu. The bridge above them is composed of large strong planks, nhich can be cut clown when necessary.

Fifty to sixty solcliers are clfi~wu from the garrison el-err year to equip a fleet ol three, four or five jcilcas" to cruise along the coast. They set sail in May for Puloginaln 2Y or whatever place is decided on, to await the ships from Goa,, to inform them of the position of the ene111y and to assist in discharging the cargo. I n September they go to Junsalam2* to await those from Negnpataln, St. Thome and also from Goa; and in December they go to the Straits of Singapore to await t l~ose from Cl~ina and Manila, for the same purpose.

The Captain Major receives ibll allowance of one hundred cruzados, but the soldiers anrl the ct~.ptains of the jalens receive nothing whi~tever beyond their food ; but are quite satisfiecl. The

folio 3s lb . captainship of these jclletrs is a much sought after and col-eted post, because in the inany losses caused to our ships, from all parts, by the Dutch, t;l~e.j(llccl.s get t l ~ e llest of the booty: l ~ u t the lvorst, is that they rlo not return i t t3 the owners. This applies esl~ecially to the ships from Chini~, because of the gretbt 1,alue ol the salvage, Ijeing gold, sillts and musli. Neither can it I)e denied that these ,j(clei~s save many vessels, and iliucll merchandise; but it is very necessary l;llat they should be in the hands of persons very disinter- ested and conscientious, a virtue rare among solcliers. The saiIors are the chief expense of these jc~kcis, as they carry over fifty, about twenty-three being required to take the oars on either side, besides the two s t the helm and stern, the extra men being required to replace t l~ose who may fall sick or become fatigued. Each sailor receives one of rice, a little over an a l r j~ t e r i c , ' ~ per month, and a cruzado of four hundred and sixty reis the whole time that they-are on board. :\ jalea is t l ~ e swiftest vessel a t sea, being ; ~ l ~ o u t fifty l ~ a l ~ n s long, ancl four palms deep, and ro \~ed by forty-six ours. They are ol' grent use in carr) iag n e w and relief, and can c\-i~tle the enemy; so t l ~ a t the more t l~ere ' are the better service

Jo l~r . Straits Brancll

they lnay render. Other vessels are sent out from Malacca wit11 advices such as L ( t ~ 1 t i u ~ s , ' ~ very much smaller than . j~~, leirs the only expense being, as aforesaid, the sailors, and the provisions for the soldiers. The latter, who receive their pay on shore i ~ b mre intervals, embark with much good will; because, a t times, when they put in at it certi~in pli~ce such ::s Pera, ancl other ports, they can earn a, quartel" from the mercl~:ints. They are not dibcharged from the fortress when they thus go to sea, neither do they lose their pay; but, \vllile away from the fortress, they are masters. But for this no soldier \\-ould relnain in tile lortress for the Icing's pay is very smi~11 and the country very dear. Even as it is, it is n, source of wonder that any soldiers are found who will remain there.

One thing mny be said of the married xvornen of this land ivhic1.i is greatly to their credit; and that is that there is not one who \vo~~ld ask for any help from I l e ~ Ilusb~~ncl towards the expenses oE the liolne, \vhicl~ really is tbeir support; for they tllemselves S L I I J ~ ~ Y the l~ousel~old money 1)y tllaking eatables w11icl1 nrz ustrnlly sold in the streets by their slaves, ancl their houses take the plt~ce of inns in the to~vn. Their daughters itre I~rought 1113 from child- l~ood to the same custom, so that there is no girl ~ v h o has not her own fort~ule put aside in this way in her father's liouse; and thus, as in India, girls are not afraid of their 11usl)ands not being able to support them ; for this rewon too yersons of m ~ ~ c h merit are satisfied wit11 a small dowry. This custom 11as greater effect in this country than in India.

Bs regards the n~ercbanclise in t l ~ e fortress of klalacca very little is of the country, ancl the greater part is imported. The chief ~ ~ r o d u c t s of the country are tin, some bezoar stones,'l" porcu1jifl.e cluillsaO and ~vild aga~ loch ium.~~ X certain quantity of Japam, 3 L or red wood, for dyes, of somen~hat less value than that of Rrazil, is brought from the interior. 811 the southern commodities and merchandise fro111 China and cloths from Cambay and the Coro- mandel coast are imported. 811 the southern lribes were wont to come here to buy in exchange for other merchandise so that the comlnerce was very extensive, and profits no less; but now i t is almost entirely extinct, for never or rarely do any natives come to Malacca to seek anything: having all they require from the Dutch. Bu t nevertheless voyages are still undertalcen from Malacca to many parts, China, Manila, and Cochin-China being the principal points of destination and the less important voyages being to Pataue. As Siam is now at war, colnmunication with Camboja, Champa and those parts, which would otherwise be very frequent, is interrul)tecl. The ships bear to the South to avoid the windy season which in Malacca is frola April to encl of August.

The mercllanclise carried to t l~ese places is as follo~7s:- To Patane, 3%tuffs Eronl C:~ml)ny and all tllc Col.omande1 coast, nccording to the stuA's iu use, ns e\.ery sou t l~e~ ,a tr i l~e follo\vs ;L cliffe~.ent fasl~ion. From Pat i~ne, patacas, 31 solne golcl, good bezoar R. A. Soc., No. 60, 191 r

S E.IKKE'l"rO D E RESEWDE'S ACCOtiWT O F I\IhLbCCii .

stones, rice, meats, veg$tables, blacli cane sugar, oils, all ltinds of. provisions and the best fowls and capons of all the southern lands.

This kingcloln of Patane is governecl solely by a wolnan in accordance with a very ancient custom. " I t is one hundred a l ~ d fifty leagues from Malacca along the coast and can be reached without encountering the northern monsoon, more esl~ecially if the Yoyage is nlade in baloons (which resemble ships of war being ~vider but not so long, having oars, two masts and two helms called cn1i~7ide.s ) 3 7 or in Malay galleys ( which are smaller than our panchelois, 38 and which are really neither galleys nor baloons, but more closely resemble the latter than the former) and in bum!i7)zs of the size of a nzn7zchrin, 30 whicll are very swift vessels with oars and masts. The last are the vessels most in use along the coast of Malacca; they are manned by Christian Malays of Malacca, who carry their gulls and powcler flasks.

The King of Camboja, where there is a church and fathers of the Society, is very friendly to the Portuguese. There is here a quantity of very thick angely wood ; 40 and very good benzoin 4' and almond milk 42 and excellent lnc 4 Y are brought in, and a quantity of rice hetter and cheaper than that of Bengal. The majority of the inhabitants are Japanese and Chinese Christians of bad character who have been exl~elled from Manila by the Spaniards; and therefore they are the bitterest of our foes. I n this kingdom there is an abunciance of calaml~ac *' and agallochium. " There are two or three ports on tlie coast of Champa where the Portuguese go to trade taking black cattle f ro~n China and some gold thread, which they exchange for blaclr wood much bigger a.nd better than that of Mozambique. There is here a church and Christian Settle- ment with a father of the Society.

Beyond lies the kiilgdom of Cochin China an~1 i ~ t the entrancc to its port is situk~ted an islancl where tho fnt.hers of the Society have a Christian Settlement. I t is callecl Pullo Carnbim. Withi- the said port, too, the same fathers have a church and a Christian Settlement.

Besides this isli~nd there are two 1)ol.t~ in this kingdom frequented by the Portuguese for commerce. I n one resides the Icing, ancl the other is called Turan. The Portuguese had 3, better welcome here than anyone else and quantities of stuffs are brought here. The contract i~ however now broken through the violence of the Captain of Malacca and only ships from China go there. Some calalnbac, " an abundance of a.gallochiurn, 31 and a quantity of copper is obtaiuecl from tlie said kingdom, it is carried there by Rilalays and Japanese.

The shortest voyages taken from Malacca are those to Pam, a port eighty leagues from Malacca. It belongs to the aforesaid king, who is very friendly to the Portuguese and is lord also of Jor snd the maritime islands. An?; ships may come to this port fro113 llalacca without Llinclrance. They bring stuffs and. opium in exchange for gold (lust 4" of the country ancl gold coin, bezoar

Jour. Straits Branch

stones, porcopine cluills, R quantity of rice, ngallochium fro111 the coast, ancl also some wares \vI~ich have been brought here Ijy the southern natives who will not go to Jlalacca. I n the same land there are two rivers 4V>elonging to the same king, where the Portuguese go to tlaad-e in the salne merchandise. Facing this place to the sea lies the slnnll mountainous islailcl of Pulo Timo" thickly poyulatecl by 3lnla.y~. Pigeons are plentiful, and there is a certiin kind of aninla1 called l~alanclos, '' which resembles a deer and is very good and fat. Tl~ere are very fjne fresh water fish, rivers. of excellenb water, and an abundance of figs 40 and tar." The anchorage close in to land is in 25 fathoms.

Port Jor lies inland fro111 Point Romania. It is once again 1 :. becoming inhabited," and many galleys and other vessels are being

built there. There is an abundance of provisions, agallochium

( and tar.

On the other side, in the chain of islands called Rintang, lies the town of Bintang, \I-l~ich is once again inhabited. I t is thickly populated, and has many fortifications for fear of Achenl. This King of Jor and Pam has other inhabited but nniml~ortant islands in tllis vicinity.

Here close to the Straits of Singapore, is the po1.t of Bulls, thickly populated with Malays ancl frequented to escess by numbers

t t of ~ne rch i~n t s from all the soutllern tribes, who come here to sell

their wares, froin wliicl~ the King of Pan1 receives great profit. They come here rather than go to nIalaccn Ijecause of the grest al)uses committed by the captains of tli:~t fortress, who 1ji1-y their inercbandise a t a price rnuch lower than the c~u-rent price of the

I country and also colnpel them to accept their money: a thing which is very usual in all the towns and fortresses of the I'ortu-

I guese Sta te ; and which causes as much misery as the Dutcli then2selves. To such ;LII extent is the nl~use carried that even when Christi;~ns come to these ports of lfali~cca to trade in certain kinds

I of merchandise the captain seizes their wares, assessing them a t a price below their real value and using much a l~use : awl for this reklson solme merchants bring their wares to the customs house at night time in order to pay duty to the customs official in secret. All this is the cause of great losses to Malacca.

On the other side of tlle island on the coast of Sumatra lies the port of Jambi, on a deep and rapid river, which contains a large body of water. The Dutch are much welcomed here and have a factory and a large trade in pepper. Further on, a little distance from this port, towards Malacca, is the large river Anclregy, " where the Dutch also procure a quantity of pepper. There are other rivers from which pepper and agallochium are exported,. of which no special mention is made because they are unimportant. The port of Siaca,j2 also inhabited by Malays, is close to the Island of Sabam, which is nearer to i\Ialacca. Here at every new and f u l l i11oon great fairs are helrl where all the merchandise of the south is sold, gold, precious stones, I~ezoar st-ones, agallochiuin, calambac, R. A. Soc., No. 60. 1911.

provisions a,nd illally oLber things. Fro111 this po1.l; up river whicll cml)ties itself opposite ?:I~~lncca is the Bay of Bencalis, "' in Sumatra OII tlle otller side of >Ialncca wl~ere n sin~iler fair is 11elcl every full nloon, where, I~esides the aforesaicl wares, a quantity of fresh and salt pork is sold, ancl the roe of sllacl fish, \vhich they c:~11 trubo, 34 great quantities of ~\.hicIi are exported from llalacca to all ports. l iere in the Bay of Bencaiis is the river das Galles, "' all of which is uocler the clolninion of the King of Pam, who has al\vays been Elnp'eror of tlie South. Tlie Straits of Singa.pore, hefore referred to, is the place where the Dutch lie in \\&it for the Portuguese s l~ips coming froin Cllina, i\ianiln, Macassar, and all the Malucco .Sschipe!i~jio. I t has Inihny cl~annels so narrow t h ~ ~ t in l~laces the lxi~nclles of the trees on shore touch the s h i l ~ s ; and the currents ;&re very strong. The water, though deep, is so clear t l l i~t the tishes c;Ln lje seen swim~ning about in it. Fisll is I~rought by the mer- chants of the ships fro111 the Saletes, " or inhabitants of the Stmits, who live in vcl-y swift bciloo~~s"' witli t l ~ e i ~ fnniilies. They catch the fish by spearing them in the water, then sell them. These Sk~letes are i~ wiclted people i d especi:~lly so to the Portuguese. r7 .Ll~ey are evil-hearted and treachesot~s, acd the best spies tlie Dutcli possess. Wherever, of the lnan y places in this x-icinit y , our ships may be, they immediately infor111 the Dutch and leacl them there; so ' that no st of our losses are clue to them. This is 1)ecsuse the Dutch give a great share of all thus seized. Al~cl thus it is very necessary that our Heets of . j n l e c ~ s z ~ n c l ships that go to these straits to \v:ait for the said fleets sl~ould make war as much as 1,ossil)le on these Salletes, and drive them born these ports.

The most i~nportant voyages undertaken from Malncca are, as I)eEorenlentioned, those to Chinn, all t h e southern mercllandise being exported there iron1 AIalacca, but now nothing I)ut a little 1)eyger is exported i~nd little, if any, cloves; our trade and the rest is in the hi~nds of tile D ~ ~ t c h , ~vllo are lords of the Ilhas de Banda, from, whence they drove out tlie n i~ t i r e s ; wl2o wancler homeless throughout the southern lands, waiting some opportunity of revenge and ,of regaining their lands. The other exports to China are the s:bme as those which come from India, and as regards Manila what is brought from there bas also been already stated. I t is a law of Melacca that no boat coming from the region of the said straits, shall pass without putting in at Malacca and paying duties on all the cargo, the rate being ten per cent and further two per cent to the town for the fortification and artillery. And it- has happe~ed that some vessels which have passed without putting in at the fortress have been supposed to be lost.

:. There is communic.ation also between Malacca and. Macassar, ~u island three hundred leagues west of Malacca, I~elonging to a Moorish Icing who knows the Portug~iese tongue very well, and l ~ a s nlixny Portuguese in his lands nnd is very l'cienclly to them. Stuft's only iwe ti~ken tliel-c in excllalige for the rne~.chsndise 1)rought to the plnce 1)y tlle soutllern ti:ibes. The luncl yields a11

Jour. Straits Branch

al~unclilnce of provisions of tortoise sbeli, and Mnla,cca ~~eceives its chief supplies from it. A11 pi~rts oE the state are in comnlunication with this island. I t has charches and fathers who administer the sacraments to the Portuguese residents ancl visitors. This Ring 113s prornised not to receive the Dutcll in his lands, I?ut he has I);~nish and English residents. Wilen this king and all his geol~le folio 3866. were hentliens, he sent to 3Ial~cc;b for a priest to instruct hirn in tlie Christii~n creecl, \ \~ l~ ich he intended to 'aclopt if it pleased him. I t is said t l x ~ t there was 111or-e delay than there should have been in such an i m p o r t ~ ~ n t ntatteu, and tllat a sailor, a Moob called Lucar, srdved nt the country in the meantin~e and taught I~ i s creed to the Iiing, who considerecl it so good tllat lie immediately adopted it.

Fro111 I\lIalacca to Pelo is a, distance of forty leagues of coast to the east. The Icing of this place was for rrlauy years 8 vassol of His Majesty anil yaid in tribute a large quantity of tin. Three yews ago he refused the tribute saying tbat oilly if His Majesty would deliver h i m fro111 the Icing: of Achern he would I)e HIS Majesty's vassal and pay tril~ute. H e said that the numerous fleets from rlche~n, vhich t h o n g these seas, frequently attacked his lands devastating tl~ern and taking the people captive. : H e well knew, he said, 110\v lni~cli n~oi-e important it was to be His IIajesty's vassai than to he vassal of the King of Acheu-2. H e saicl that he had no power llowever to resist the tyrant and his great forces, and tllat if His k i ~ ~ j e s t y did nob supl~ly the means, 11e I>imselE must seek ;L reuledv in his own kingdom I)y becoming a vassal ,of t l ~ e Icing of . I c l~e~n , anil paying to l i i~n the tribute lie formerly paiil to His Najesty. I n spite of this, he n-as abie to resist our fleet when it Jvas sent cllastise 11in1.

There are great tin n~ ines in his kingdon-2, the metal of which \ye have already spolren, ancl thus five or six quintals "' of tin are yearly extractecl from Illern. The greater part of i t .formerly came to Malacca, but now not a third psrt is sent there. The rest is taken l)y the Dutch to Aohe~n, ancl thence they carfy i t to Ioclia wit11 great l~rotit.

The factory l)ossessecl hy the Captain oE Mslacca at Per& \\.as one which a t one t i ~ r ~ e yielded greater grotit than any other. But now it yields nothing, and for this ancl sther reasons the fortress has become so ruined that in the year 1633 no one could be found willing to fill the post of captain ; and a captain was appointed and sent by the viceroy.

N O T E S .

-4 corruption of the fiIalay words .lljo71!j, end, and tnilalz, land- 1. Jullta~la. literally '' land's end " : it is the n i ~ n e applied to the lower p ~ r t of the R$;~lt~y Peninsuln. Ujoatan;~ or Ujmtana ;we tile more common forrl~s in t l ; ~ Port~tgucsc accounts : tln~s cle Burros (in -4. ll. 1553) writes, you must ltnow that Ujnntsna, is the ~11ost

3. " Married Whites. "

6. Candy.

soiitl~erly, and the most easterly ~ o i n t of the milin luncl of the hfalacca coast >vl~icll from this point turns North i n the direc- tion of the Kingdom of Siam."

Goclinho de Ereclia i n his Declaracam cle hfalacca e India Meri- dionnl in\-ilriably wrote it Ujontana, tllus V J O L \ T T B N A - - W ~ ~ C ~ Jilnssen, in his French translation has rendered throughout a s Viontana. Pinto ( A . D. 1614) has Jantana.

31arsden in his " Historl; of Sumatra " (1). 345) writes of the " King of Oojong Taua (formerly of Bintang) " ancl is obviously refer- ring to the ruler of Johore.

The map in the M. S. shows this to be the Liuggi River-Godinho de Eredia also gives the northern ancl southern boundaries of Malacca a s the Panagim and the Muar Rivers.

The Portuguese "marrieil man" for~ned a distinct class in Portuguese. There was the governing clnss, whose duty it was to administer the settletnpnt, the military class whose duty it- was to defend it, anil the married man " n~hosc cluty-like that of the colonists of early Greece, it was to po1)ulate it. The Malacca Portuguese of the present day are the descendents of

' L . tlle ~r~arr ied men. Godinho ,de Ereclin says In the interior of this fortress there are, exclusive of the garrison, three llunclred married men with their families. "

Straw huts: in other words, atap houses. Poisoneil weapons were used with considera1)le success in the

clefence- of lfalacca ag!inst Blbucluerque. The Co~nlventarics after referring to the blowing tubes with poisoned arrows" (whi?) nowadays are used only by the aborigines) say :-

Of the men struck by the poisoned arrows on the first day, none escapecl but oue Fernao Golnez de Lernso, who was I~urnecl with :L red hot iron directly he was struck so that ulti~nately God spared his life. "

Poisoned cheveux cle frise-the Malay ~.ci~~jmzis, sharpened stakes stuck point upwards in the ground, are referred to in Albuqusrque's account of the fighting on the second day of the defence of Malacca.

A weight used in South Inclia: it varies (as do all weights and measures) in different places, but inay be put at 500 pounds.

Yule and IBurnell's Glossary c o ~ ~ t a i n s the following :- The word is Mahratta Kha~zcli, written in Tamil and

Malayalanl Ku7zdi. The Portuguese write it Cc~ndil. " Among the passages quoted i,n the Glossary is this one

from van Linschoten (A.D. 1595) : candil is little more or less than 1 4 bushels wherewith they measure Rice, Corn, and a11 grain."

Whitaker's Almanack gives among the Indian weights :-1 candy = 500 11).

Johore. (Xlthough the lmpers upon &lalay subjects " published by direction of the Federi~ted D!lalay States Government have i~cloptecl the spelling--Johor, I venture to take this opportunity

Juur . Straits Branch

of recording t11,zt instructions for the adoption of the spelling-- Joliore-\.\-ere issued by the Government of the Straits SettTe- ments in Government Gazette Notification No 377 of 1899.)

Pahnng. Pam is the form in which the name is most commonly 8. Pam. found. Purchas in His Pilgriines ha-s variations Paam and Pan.

A throwing spear. I t wonlcl appear that the Portuguese found this 9. Assegay, word in use in South Africa, and applied it generally through- out the east. (Yule gives its derivation as the Berber word zaghaya with the Arabic article prefixed, and adds an interest- ing list of quotations of its use')y early travellers). Godinho de Eredia in his acconnt of the army" of Mt~lncca also writes of the assegay.

The author's equivalent "darts of fire-hardened wood " is correct. ,lo. Saligas. The word is Malay-soligi. Malay boys generally make the head of

a seligi of bamboo, out to a razor-edge in the shape of a spear- head, and use it for spearing pelandok and napu. I n the days when the Malacca Malays user1 poisoned ~ v e ~ p o n s , a scligi was of course as dangerous as any spear.

Both in Malay and in Javanese, the how is called panah, and the 11. Bowsand arrow the "bow's child ". The use of these weapons, which A"0ws ,

is unknown to the hfalays of the Soutllern end of the Peninsnla, \vould appear to have been borrocved from the people who thronged there in the clays, immediately before its capture by Albuquerque, when it was the meeting ylnce of the trade of the Indian and the Pacific Oceans.

The sumpitan (sumpitTto blo~v) is the tnbe, and not the clart ivhich 12. Sumpitan is known as the auali s~m7pitnn." I t is still the l)rincipal \x7eapon of the aborigines.

Godinho de Ereclia writes thus of the climtbte of hfalacca :- 1.3. Climate "The air in this region of b:[alacca is very fresb an:] very o fNalaccs .

healthy ; the opposite of v h a t had been.thought by the ancients, notably Aristotle and Ptolemeus who affirm that the part of the

- world between the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn is very hot nnd burning, and that the atmosphere there is torrid. This land of Ujoiltana is Gruly the freshest and the most agreeable in the world. The air there is healthy and vivifying; well suited for keeping the human body in good health, being at the same .time hot and moist. Neither the heat nor the humidity are however excessive : for the heat is tempered by, and counter- acts . the humidity which results from the rains which in this region are frequent throughout the year, especially, a t the changes ol the monsoon."

This description, donbtless, savours of hypel.bole, but as the early Chinese travellers conclelnned the climate of Nlalacca, as ' I unwhol~~o lne l i ' and as t l ~ i s con(7e1mnation is repeated in Whiteway's Rise of the PorLugoese Power in India " (page. 5 ) i t is well to record a more fsvourable opinion.

The Batu Pahat river was known to the Portuguese as Rio Fermozo. 14. River (Cra\vfurd's Descriptive Dictionary : Article Malacca). Captain Fermozo.

R. A. Soc.! No. 60. 1911,

14 13XKKETTO Dl<: RESENDE'd ACCOUNT O F MALACCA.

i IT,. l3ound:t- rien of 1 [alacca.

16. Rindo. 17. Tamung- mn.

10. Tin.

20. Tigers.

51. Cruzado.

22. Jeles.

~ h e r a r d Oshorn in a map of thei\'lnlay Peninsula in 11is hool; Q~iedal.1 " (.-\.D. 1833) slion,s a Mount Pormosi~ south of

Malacc:~. h Formosa Ixm.lc is shewn a t the inout11 of the Batn Pallat river in this Society's map of the Peninsuln dntecl 1898.

The hounclaries are given in their proper order : North, Enst and South. "The land of the Menamcabos" (i. e. M e n a n g k q v men) is RemhiLu, one of the Negri Seml~ilan on the Nortll. Rir~do " is the distiict washed by the Endau ~ i v e r , \vhich flows into the sea on the East coast of the Peninsula, and forms the boundary 1,ettveen Johore and Pnhang. Tamnngnm (i. e. Temenggong) is Johore.

Endau. T'idc s7tl)~ci. Johore was governed hy a Temenggong subject to the Sultwn of Dai, i

and Pnhang was governed I)y a, Bandahara also snhject to tho Sultan of Dai. The Mt~lay expression is Eagiizcln rli Dni, Tenzenggo~zg cli Johore,. Re~zclahnl-a di Pahnng.

This is the Portagnese form of the word we generally write as betel. The native name (Ylalapalan~) for betel-leaf is vettila (the para or

siml~le leaf). Garcia rle Ortn, (Goa 1563) writes thus in his colloquies:

" We call it behe, because the first land known by the Portuguese was Malabar ............... all the names that occur, which are not Portuguese are Malahar, like betre."

Tin is mentioned in n Chinese account of hlalncca datecl A.D. 1416. 1.t is thus 'translated hy (;roeneveldt. (Miscellaneous Pnpers relating to Indo-Cl~inn. Second Series Yol. I page 244.)

'' Tin is foiind in two places of the mountains, and the Iring has appointed officers to control the mines. People are sent to wilsll i t , and after it has I m n nlelteil, it is cast into small hloclrs meigl~ing one cati eight taels or one cati four taels official weight: t en pieces are 1)ound together ~vi th rattan and form n,

small I~unclle, w l ~ i l s t forty pieces make a large bundle. I n all their trading transactions they use these pieces of tin instead of money. "

A fuller account of the exorcition of these, tigers by the bishop is given 11y Gordinl~o de Rredia in a cl~apter of which a transla- tion is given in the appendix.

The tigers of Rlalacca Ilacl long been famous. I n the " Yirig-yai Sheng Lan " (A.D. 1416) there is mention of a "kind of tiger which assumes a human shal~e, coines into the town and goes anlong the people." The coln~nentary gravely adds that " when it .recognized it is caught and Itilled. " The 3Ii~lay superstitious regarcling were tigers are too well-lrnown to require repetition here.

A silver c0i.n (formerl!. gold) now equivalent to 480 reis, or about two sl~illings of Eng1isI1 money. It \+,as ~vorth much more relatively in the seventeenth cen tu~y .

A kind of galley mucl~ used I)y the Po~tuguese. It cn~rjed a '

number of fighting met?. lour. Straits Branch

BXRXfiTTO UE KESEKDE'S A C C O G N T CIF MALAC'C.4. 1 5

There is tho following mention of a inlea in the Storia do hiogor (Trol. I page 370.)

" The king of Aralan ..................... sent him hixck to his father mith a number of hoats chllerl ;j(tll'(is, which are s~~na l l galleys commandecl I)y Por tug~~ese subjects of the saitl Iiing." The word is connected ~vi th galley " i ~ n t l with " jolly -]>oat :" see the very interesting article,:' Gnllevat " in Yule and Burnell.

Penang. Lancaster's visit in the Eilward Bonnventure" in 1593 23. Pulo- is, I believe, the first recorded landing in Ponang, but the pinam.

present account would ~nalze it appear probable that the Portugacse scouting galleys called a t the island before his time. May is the montll ic ~vhich the South-West monsoon sets in, bringing the sailing 1,ont.s from India. I n Decernher the North- Eas t monsoon, which brings the Chinese trade down to Singapore, is in full force.

Junk-Ceylon. The c~rru1)tiou of Ujong Salang, (see article Junlr- 24. Juns~1- Ceylon in Yule nn.1 B~lrnell) It is now better Irnown as Tongkah. I n Septe.t~ber or O:toI,er, the fair weather, along the West coast of the Peninsul;~., hegins with the Ixeaking of the North-East monsoon.

I do not know this word. I n the connection in whicll i t is used it 2.5. Para. !oes not appear to have anything to clo mith ' hnhar' or bhara.'

An alquerie is said by Vieyra (quoted in Albuqnerqae (Hnkluyt) 26 Alquerie. Vol. I V . page 88) fo be the equivalent of "one ~ e c l i , three quarts and one pint of English n1easu1.e."

Godinho de Eredia describes a bri~lli i~t as I)eing a liincl of sltifl', n, 27. Bantim. smaller vessel than a :jalea, car.1.ying onrs and ~nasts , and rucl- ders on both sides, and as being nsed for sea-fights. Wilitin- son's Dictionary gives bmzting ~s a native sailing I~oat with two masts. Crawfurd leaves it as a kind of b o ~ t . " Van Eysinga in his Ilalay-Dutch dictionary has b n l ~ t i c ~ l g , soort vnn boot met twee masten.

No book of reference, to which I have access, gives this word. 28. Quartel. Concretions fountl in the stomachs of certain animals and supposed 29, Bezoar

to have marvellous antidotal virtues. The Portiiguese gener- stones. ally called them pedra cli ~ O T C O , bnt in Borneo they are, I helieve, most often found in a species of monlrey, and in Pahang in porcnpines. Pahang is still famed for its l>orcupines' bezoar stones.

The reference would tend to show that the bezoai stones referred to 30. porcn- immecliately above were probably those of porcupines. pine qnills.

Eagle-wooil, or kciy~i ljli11~11.: sFe the article engle-wood in Yule and 31. Agallochi Burnell. -~111.

Sappan-woocl or Brazil-woocl. See 130th articles in Pule and Bur- 38. Japam- neU. wood.

Patmni was from its position on the east coast of the peninsula n 33. Pntani. very important trading centre, and \ohen the East Inclia Com- pany issued instructions to its agent in t h e e ~ s t in 1614 (circa)

R. A.!%c., NO. 60, 1911,

(lug-out canoes in Ceylon. See Emerson ~ e n n a n t ' s Ceylon

37. Camndes. Vol. I1 Page 549.

. 38 Panchel- The Malay word kci~nz~cli, a rudder. Ini. I do not know this word.

~ . v ~ u e an article in Journal No 54,l it selected, a s the four prin- cipal stations, Snrat on tlie west coast of India, Coromandel on tlie easL coast of Andia, Bantam in J a w , ancl Patani in tho Malay Peninsula. The command of him s t Patani was to stretch over Siam, Cambodia, Cochin-China, Japan and Borneo ; and t h e places thereabouts. " ' Sd. Patacas. Water-melons : see the article pataca in Yule and Burnell.

$ 5 ,

t : ; \ i; I (

1;. L 1 :

Jouy. Straits Branch

I 1 35. Queen of There are very interesting accounts of the clue:: of Patani and of I Patani. the custom of the country in the Calendar of State i Papers, Colonial Series, East Indies, Chinn and Japan"

V0l~lrne; I:

'{I i 39:~ianchua. 31anji is the Malayslam word for a large cargo boat with a single

j,l mast and a square sail much nsecl on the Malabar coast. The

I : 36. Baloons. Godinho de Eredia has the following account :-

,\ ji.1 "The vessels used by the inhabitants of Ujontona, are uot great.

i i; / They have bnlos, vessels used for freight, with oars and carry- ' i : : ing.sails like those of a frigate. The body of the boat is of 1;: i hard wood, and the frame is made of l~ranches of the 11vpeil-n : i.; I ; ! , ! !

palm and of canes laced together to keep out the water. They have one or two masts, ancl the ropes are made of rattans . : A

:: 1 The sails are inacle of a liind of palm kno.wn as Pongo. At the i' I . ! :, . stern are two rudders one on each side."

- 1 ; De la Loubere (Historical Relation of the Kingdom of Siam A. D. :-i 1

) 1888) gives a long zccount of the " balons " of Siam, (page 41)

5 ' and has four engravings of highly ornnmental and elaborately

: I carveJ Imrges, with lofty poops and b o w , used by the king ancl by high oficials on state occasions. 1 venture to think

1 :I that the cleriration w l ~ i c l ~ Yule ancl Bnrnell suggest for tor this I: } word in their article " Baloon " is incorrect, and that the pro- ] j , ) . I h,ble derivation is from the word bnllavz, or ?.nlln71~, used for

ii I

i i

I

, . Portuguese made I ~ L ~ ~ ~ C ~ Z Z L C L out of the word. 40. Angely. Perhaps another form of the word agila, i.e. eagle wood-vide Note

31 supra. 41. Benzoin. 01- \,enjamin : kemennyen ; the resin of the sl!jl.a.sa benzoiqz : for a

I ,

: derivation of the word, ancl an account of the resin, see the

i2. Almond article in Yule ancl Burnell. See also the article in Cramfurd. Milk. I do not know ~ 1 1 a t this nlay be.

43. Lac. The resinous incrustation procluceii on certain trees by their puncture by the lac insect [coecr~s lncca.] For an interesting

, account of this resin, and of stick-lac, seed-lac, and lacquer,

44. Calam- see the article lac in Yule and Burnell. hac. Eagle-wooc1.-See the scticle Calambac in Cratvfurd .

45. Paheng. The ''gold inountains" of Pallang, i.e., the land in Ulu Pahang, are Gold. mentioned in the history of the lning clynasty. (Vide Groene-

veldt 1). 256.)

The two rivers are probably the Rompin on the South, and the 46 1''~l);~ne Iiuantan on the North. Rivers.

Pulau Tioman, off the Pahang Coast. I t belongs to the State of 47. Pulo Pahang. Timao.

Pelandok ; the mouse-deer, or chevrotain ( ~ T C L ~ Z L ~ I ~ S j c ~ v c ~ ~ z i c z i s . ) 48. palandc Plantains or b a ~ a n a s (?a,~scl p c ~ ? ~ n i l z s a z c ~ ~ ) the fig of Paradise " or 49. Figs.

sometimes the apple of Paradise." The Portuguese always called the plantain " the Indian fig," and in the West Indiea the common small variety of plantain is still called a fig.

i.e., damar. 50. Tar. Johore was repeatedly ravaged by the Achinese during their succes- 51. Jobore.

sive attacks upon &1:18lacca, of which the last took place in A.D. 1625, when the Achinese fleet was yracticslly annihilated in Malscca harbour by the Portuguese.

An insight into the n~esning of de Resende's grim espression that Johore was " once again becoming inhabited " is afforded in Marsden's History of Sumatra ( i~ . 364) where there is the following passage regarding the King of Acheen.

" The disposition of this monarch was cruel and sanguinary.. . . . . . . . , The whole territory of Aclieen was almost depopulated by wacs, executions and oppression. The Iiing endeavoured to repeople the country by his conquests. Having ravaged the Iiiugclou~s of Johor, Paham, Queili~, Per3 nncl Delhy, he trans- ported the inhabitants frorn those pli~ces to Acheen to the number of twenty. two thoussnd persolis. Eu t this bt~rbarous policy did not produce the efiect he hoped; lor the unl~appy people being brought naked to his dolnirlions nncl not allowed any kind of maintenance on their arrival, died of hunger in the streets."

IndriLgiri. 58. Andrcgy.

Siak. 53. Siaca. I am afraid that I cannot follow this account. The Siak river 54. Bencalis.

empties itself into the Straits opposite Bencalis Island. It is dificult to understand what the other river is inle less it is the Ihmpar) and what island Sal)anl is.

The t e ~ z ~ b o k f i s h : c 1 o 1 . p ~ ~ ~ ~ ( L I L ~ Z L T ~ ( L . This excellent fish, which is 55. Trnbo. like a, herring in taste, is common on the Kedah coast, but practically unknown in the Perlang market. The dried roes are however commonly used throughout fbe Straits as a sn7ltbal with curry. For a full account of'the fish and of the industry connected with its capture, see Cmwfurd (article Trubo) where several references to early travellers are given.

I cannot indentify this rive;; 56, dits Galles. These are the celebrated orang lt~ut," or "S~:L-Sakies" of the .5'i. Salctes.

Malay Peninsula, of whom the boys that dive off the mail. steamers a t Ti~njong Pagar are the descendants. A few still survive at Jugra, in Selangor, and in places along the Ps l~ang coast. There are coi~sidernble nuulbers of then1 itlong the coast near, i ~ n d north of Tongkt~h.

fi. A. SOC., NO. 60, 1911. ::: 2

58. Quintal.

Godinho de Eredia gives this account of them : "Before the found- ing of the town of Malncca, the place was inhabiteJ by Saletes,

race of fishermen, who settled themselves under the shade of the Malacca trees there. They used pointed javelins called Saligi and pursued fishes with such address that they could transfix fishes in the depths of the sea, and they used no other weapon. They were a wild, cannibal race."

fiIost of the early travellers have interesting accounts of this extra- . .

ordinary people. See the article ' I orang-laut" in Crawfurd. Saletes $, the Portuguese name for these people. I t is a corruption

of orang selat," selat being a Strait, and used thsn, as now, with particnlar reference to the Straits of Singapore.

I n the Metric system, a quintal (or cental) is one hundred liilograms, and according to Whitaker's Almanack the equivalent of 1.968 cwt. I n old tables of weights and meusures, a quintal, or centid, .4voirdul)ois, is she\~yn.as being a hundred pounds.

The following is :L tal~le of \veights : 1 cluintt~l -- 4 arrixbas 1 arrubo = 33 arratels 1 a m t e l - - 2 inarcos 1 lllarco = S oncas.

APPENDIX. A t ranslation of Chapters I. and X V . of Gardinho de Eredia's

6 L Deelaraeam de Malaca."

Regarding t h e City of Malacca. i\.li~lecca is a word which means Mirobolan or Monbain, the

fruit of a tree which grows on the banks of the Aerlele, (Xyer Leleh ), a streal11 which flows from the slopes of Bnkit China to the sea, on the coast of Ujontann. I t was on the banks of this stream, on the South East side, that Perrnicuri, the first inonarch of the Malays, founded the town of Malacca, which to-day is so ~vell-known throughout the, world.

I t is sitnatecl in 2. 12 of north latitude, in the torrid zone; and the longest clay consists of 1 2 hours 6 minuhes. Ptolemy lnakes no mention of Malncca, which is moclern and was given to it by the monarch ~ b o v e mentioned, who founded the town, in the year 1411, in the time of Pope John XXIV. when King John 11. reigned in Castille and Iiing John I . in Portugal.

Before the founding of mIalacca, the Saletes, a tribe of fisher-. men, congregated in this place, in the shade of the trees which beay the mirobolans. .These fishermen used pointed javelins called " soliques," i.e. seligi, and threw them with such skill that they could transfix fishes at the bottom of the sea. They employed no otller in~plements of fisl~ing. They were inhabitants of the coast of Ujontana, in the southern seib, and a wild and cannibal race.

Jour. Straits Branch

.*-- .-

I An old and very narrow isthmus started.from the point of Tanjon-Tom, a o \ ~ ~ called Caborachaclo (Cape Rachado) and crossed to meet another. pcint called Tanjon~BaIvala, on the const of Snmatta, or, by corruption, Samattra (Sumatra).

I t wes by this isthinus, \vhich extended between t ~ o seas, one lying on the North and the other on the South, that the natives from the lnain land of Ujontnna crossed over to Sal.natta.

This name of Samatta means Peninsuli~, or Chersonese; ancl i t is this l~eninsula that Ptoleiny mentions under the name of the Golden Chersonese. We shall have occasion to return to this further on.

Permicuri cllose this place because he considered it capable k of being placed in a state of defence. This monarch had to protect

i ' i

himself from the ruler of Pain (Pahang), a territory in the interior

i of Ujontana. This ruler made occasional armed nttaclis upon Permicuri, for

he sought vengeance for an act of treachery, of which Permicuri had ( been guilty towards t~ relative of his, the " Si~b i~ndes " (Shahbanclar)

of Singapore, whom Permicuri had assassinatecl in spite of the proofs of friendship he 1i:~d received from him, a t the time when Permicuri pursued by his f;~tber-in-law, the old Emreror of Javn, had sought a refuge in Singal~ore.

Permicuri therefore fortified himself on the crest nf the hill, in a strong position where he was free from the fear of being taken by his enemy. H e evinced great energy and zeal in enlarging his territory, which he extended beyond the river Aerlele; and Ile developed his new State by encou~aging cornmerce and tl*a&c with Flhe suCrounding tribes, who all came to Malk~cca to fish for the

Saveis ", a kind of shad, whose eggs placed in brine formed a much sought-after dish. Later, when the port had become frequented, the merchants of Coromandel, chiefly the Chelis (Chulia i.e. Klings) came over with stuffs and cIothing; and they thus

- , attracted thither the inhabitants of the surronndizg islands, who I helped to pol~ulate and to bring custom to the port, by bringing

merchandise tLnd exchanging their gold and spices for the stuffs of Coromanclel.

This is the origin of the ~veslth of Alalacca, which becaime one of the richest and lriost opulent States in the world. At this periocl the natives were gossessecl of lnuch ingot gold, and the proeperity of the country continued under the reign of Permicu~i 's successors who were Sacluemdarxa, (Iskanclar Shah) the Sultan RiIedafarxn, the Sultan Marsusel, the Sultan Alaudim (Ala-ecl-Din) ancl lastly the Sultan i\!oharnetll (RIahmud) who was conquered by Afonso

' L < . d'Alboquerqne, who captured the whole countr~7, a little more than

x l~unclred years after its foundation, on the 15th of August, 1511. After conquering Malacca, the invincible Captain constructed a

stone fortress a t the foot of the hill on the sea-sbo~e, to t l ~ e South- East of the mout l~ of the river, where the Sultan hiohameth hacl built the palaces \\-here he had kept the treasures with n l ~ i c h he R. A. Soc., Nu. 60, 1911

I -

escaped after crossing the river, a n i taking refuge in the interior of the country. 9lohamet.h, after l~nssing through the country of Pam, intrenched himself a t Bentan,, whence he proposed to make expeclitions against Malacca. Bnt Albuquerque bad by this time finished the work of fortification of this town ; his commanding position, his artillery ancl his powerful garrison made him the terror of the Malays and always maintained the authority end honour of the Crown of Portugal. Malacca was victorious i n ' repelling nuulerous attacks by &lalay Kings and other neighbouring rulers.

The fortress for~ns a square each side of which measures 20 yards, it is 80 yards high ( s i c ) , and is protected on the east by walls built of stone and plaster ; ancl in the interior there is a spring of \\rater. I n time of war or disturbacce the inhabitants can be given shelter and provision there. The castle, or the tower, is as high as the hills. I t was not built 011 the bill because it was preferawe to place it lower down, in the sea itself, to ensure re-victualling in case of war. When this Iiad been done, wooden walls were erected around the groups of Malay dwellings.

Two walls, built of stone covered with plaster, started from tho angle forniecl by the sen to the west in two lines: they followed the shore and turnsd a t right angles when they reached the height of the gronnd \\there the llosl~itals and the Brotherhood of Mercy were I~uilt ; and thence the two lines turned, the one to the North for a distance of 260 yards as f i~r as the angle of the rampart of St . Peter, at the n~oiith of the river opposite the castle, and the other to the East for a clistance of 150 yards at the turn of the coi~st by the gate ancl ra,mparL of St. .James. Another wall, tvl~ich was built a t the same time, extended from the rampart of St. Peter as far as the gateway of the hlfundege, ancl thence, for a distance of 300 yarcls, followecl the river to the North East as far as the acute angle forrned by the rampart of St . Dominic. From the gatenay here, a wooden wall extended to the South East, for a distance of 200 yards, to the obtuse angle at the end of the Avenue of the Mother of God. Another wooden wall extended from the gateway of St . Anthony for a distance of 200 yards towafds the Sonth East beyond the rampart of the Virgins as far as mother gatewey on the rainpart St. James. The total length of the walls was thus 1310 yards of five palms to the yard. In later days the architect in chief, Joao Baptists, by order of the Icing, prepared amenclecl plans of the fortress. He made a new and enlarged plan of the ~ ~ ~ a l l s in the South and in the waste land which stretches froin the rampart of St. James to that of St. Dominic. His idea was to build new walls of stone and plaster instead of the wooden palisades, but his project was never carried out. Although there welre four gateways piercecl in the walls, two only, that of the Xlfandega ant1 that of St . Anthony, were generally used, and were open for ordinary traffic. I n the .interior of the enclosed area are the Castle, the Governor's Palace, the Bislloy's Palace, the State Council 13~~11, the Hnll of the Brotherhood of Mercy, five Chur-

Jour. Straits B n n c h

-7-- - - - ches-our Lady of the Assumption, the Cathedral with the chapter and episcopal throne, our Lady of the Visitation and of Mercy, our Lady of the Annuciation (in the College of the Company of Jesus, at the very crest of the hill), the Church of St . Dominic in the

I Convent of the Dominicans and the Ch~xrch of St . Anthony in the Convent St. Augustine-and two hospitals. ! Outside the walls are three saburbs, the first is that of Upe

.i (Upehj on the other side of the river; the second is that of Yler I (Hilir) on Tanjonpacer (Tt~njong Pasir) on this side of the river;

I the third, that of Sabba, lies along the banlt of the river. Of these three, the princi?al one is Upe. I t is also caller1 the

- ! " Tranqueirs" or the Palisade," because of the palisade, or wooden wall, which has been built there parallel with tlie bank.

1 ..,~ I t is 1400 yards from the mouth of the river. Fro111 its extremity a wooden wnl! extends 12?,yards to the East towards the gate of the palisade as far as the TVooc!en Cavalier." Thence, following an obtuse angle, anot,her wooden wall stretcl~es across the marshy

(~ and muddy ground of the interior, as far as the gate of Campon China which touches the river. I n this way, the suburb of Upe, with its countrx houses and gardens, is well protected from the attacks of the Saletes." Nevertheless, when preparations are being made for war, this sul~urb is entirely clepopulated ancl dis-

\ mantled, its whole population talring refnge in the castle mithin I the walls. 1 This suburb is divicled into two parishes; St. Thomas anc1

51;. Stephen. The parish of St . Thomas is called Campon Chelim (Iiampong Kling) ; it stretches along the bank of the river, from

, the Javanese Bazaar to~vards the North West and ends at the stone rampart. I n this part li\7e the Chelis of Coromandel who must be the " Chalinges" of which Pliny writes in Chapter S V I I . of Book VI.

The other parish, St. Stephen, is called Campou China and stretches from the strand of the Javanese Bazaar, for a distance

. . I . of 800 yards, along the river side to the wooden ~vall of the palis- 1 ade a t the mouth of the river, and extends, beyond the swampy

part of the river, to the plantations of Nypeiras (Hipahs) and of " Bravs" palms which grow beside on the brook called " Parit China." I n this part of Campon China live the " Chincheos" descendants of the "Tocharos" of Pliny, foreign merchants and natives occupied in fishing. The two parishes of St. Thomas and St. Stephen contain 2500 Christians, men, women, ancl children, beside the other heathen inhabitants. The houses are all built of tirriber and. are covered n-ith tiles to preserve them from the rislr of fire. Stone buildings are, for reasons of defence in case of war, not allowed. At the mouth of the river, on the terrace of the Alfandega, there is a stone bridge on which a sentry mounts guard a t aigllt. On the bank, a t the place called the Javanese Bazaar, at the entrance to the river, are sold the victuals, rice and grain which the Javanese merchants bring daily in their sailing boats. R , A . Soc. , No. 60, 1911.

'l'he second suburb, that of Yler, is situated on the other side of the river towards the South East , and through it wooden huts covered with thatch (atap) extend for a distance of, 1200 yards from the $ver Aerlele towards the fields of Tanjonpacer, when there is a banjacal" or gnard-honse which is its only defence. I n this suburb there is a parish Church dedicated to our Lacly of Pity, which serves m pnrish of 1300 Cl~ristians, without counting the heathen.

From the Aerlele river, or stream, another row of ~vooden clwellings stretches eastward for 1000 yards as far as the well of Eultit China, which supplies excellent water springing fro111 the foot of the hill, on whose suul~n~i t rises the Church of the Mother of Gocl and the Convent of the Cal~nchins of St. Francisc,~.

Further to the North there is another hill called Bukit Piatto, nnd all rouncl there are fields ancl swamps as far as Bnkit Pipi, nnrl Tanjonpacer to the South Eas t ancl South.

The last sribnrb, that of Suppa, extends from the moat of the raunl~nrt St . Dominic. I t s houses are made of 1vooc1 and built .on piles, right in the middle of the water. This grouncl, being swampy and damp, is well suited to the c~llling of the fishermen w l ~ o live in this suburb ; they tie up their boats ancl fishing nets along side their Iiouses, and float in the water the timber and forest produce of the interior of the country in which they deal. I n this snburb is the parish Chnrcb of St. Lau~ence \vhich serves a l~ol~ulation of 1400 Christians ancl other ~ e r y numerous nali1;es who live in the swampy grouncl where the " Nypeiras " or " Brara " palms, from which they distil the nypa wine, grow. Besides these three parishes extra q1z1e.o~ there are three parishes in the interior of the country ; St. Lazarus, Our Lady of Gundeloul:e, and Onr Lady of Hope. They are situated on the banlr of the river and contain a population of 2200 Christians and heathell natives or vnssn81s who live inlnncl in farms where they raise cattle ancl farmyard animals. I n the eight parishes alone in the jurisdiction of Malacca the Christian popula- tion reaches 7400 souls, withonti connting the heathen and the vessal natives.

The State is administrated by a Governor elected for three years, by a bishop and by other dignitaries of the episcopal see assisted by City Magistrates organised in the same manner as the Tribunal of Evore of the Fathers of Mercy, and by royal clelegntes for the financial ancl judicial departments.

The State further supports mendicant orders, a Convent of the Company of Jesus with its scl~ools and colleges, the convents of the order of St. Don~inic and of St. Augustine, capuchin inonlts of St. Francis, ancl ministers of the Christian religion. Inside the fortress live, besides the garrison for its defence, 300 married Portu: guese with their families. There are in all four religious houses,' eight parishes, fourteen ch~irches, two cl~apeis of the Hospitalers, nnd some heriniteges and oratories.

Jour. Straits Branch

The mountsin of Gunoleclam, like Mount Atlas, where sybiline caves are found, is a high mountain. It is half a league in height, and a little more than a league in circnmference a t its base: it is cluite isolated. If one believes a story, which is widely spread among the Malays, the clueen Putry, the companion of Permicuri, who founded Wlalacca, retired to this mountain, and, by enchant- ment (for by lriagic she became iminortal) lives there still. Her home is on the heights of the monntnin in a cave, where she lies on a raised bed mhicll is clecoratecl with the bones of dead men. She is clail in silk ancl gold, and looks like n, lovely young girl. Ronnd this cave are planted thick rows of bnll-rboos, in ~ ~ h i c h one hears llarmonious voices and souncls of music. I t is something like this that Marco Polo describes when he writes in the 44th cllapter of this first book of the music of d~llcimers which was heard in the desert of Job.

At n certain distance from the care ~ ~ n ( 1 the bnml)oos are groves of fruit trees full of delicate fruit and singing I,irds, and not far from them are the forests where roan1 the tigers who guard this enchanted Putry, this new Circe of Thessaly.

This story is probably not true, but the natives firnlly believe in it. They further assert that on this mountain is a cave like that of the Pythians ant1 the Sibyls, and that the forest-dwelling Benna.s here learn their magic arts ancl hold intercourse with the devil. Here, without seeing any one, they hear, inysterious voices which reveal to them not only the qualities of plants and of miraculous nncl medicinal herbs, but the art of preparing meclicines, both 1)eneficial incl harmful. 111 order to get this inforn~ation, the Benuas employ a herb called E ~ b a ~i l cc l , which is found on-Gunole- dam as well as in America. By drinking a decoction of this herh, they put themselves in communication with the devil or with P ~ i t r y , who like the Thessalian witch Erichto, and like the enchan- tress Circe, takes the forin of aninlals and hides.

These forest-dwelling Benuas in the same manner, and by means of the same practices and words would take the forins of tigers, lizards, ct~ocodiles or other animals. They then had supernatural power, and could hold conversation with people in remote places, like the sorceress of Tuscanp, who could show to those ~ v h o consulted her things that were happenii~g a t a distance.

While speaking of this subject, I ought to make mention of Lhe first bishop of Malacca, Dom Georges de Santa Lucia, whose merits should be always exalted. H e wished to put an end to the harm caused to the country by these forest-dwelling Bqnuas, who in the shape of tigers used to enter the town of Malaccn, and kill nnresist- ing women and children.

H e wished to excommunicate them ancl had public prayers made in the cathedral. Then, a t issue of the Grand Mass and after the procession of the feast of the assumption of our l,ady, the pro-

R, A. Soc., No. 69, 1911,

- . ,,--,,..-J U - U ~ L A ~ L A ~ L L L A L Y L U Y U C L V Y G O O U16ULU.

Since then they have never entered a village, nor killsd a man, woman or child. For this Christians gave thanks to God. This miracle Lstounded the natives and as a result, many of them and many Cheli (Kling) idolators mere converted in 1560.

. J w r . Straits Rravch R . A. Soc., Mo. 60. r9r1,