the australian way september

» BESPOKESuits, shirts, ties, shoes:handmade clothes tailored to enhance your body shape are the ultimate in men’s fashion

PHOTOGRAPHY RICHARD WEINSTEIN

STYLING STAV HORTIS

» STRIPES Candy stripes are the flavour of the month

» SAVE YOUR SKIN Skin protection in summer is important for all ages

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132 QANTAS DECEMBER 2005

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Clothes make the man, but man makes the clothes and if you want a suit to suit you, handmade to order is the way to go.

TAILORED SUIT

PHOTOGRAPHY RICHARD WEINSTEIN

STYLING STAV HORTIS

MEN’S FASHION

SEPTEMBER 2006 QANTAS 133

SUITABLY DRESSED

JOHN CUTLERJH Cutler Bespoke Tailor & Shirtmaker, est 1884 23-25 O’Connell Street, Sydney. (02) 9232 7122.www.cutlerbespoke.com

132 QANTAS SEPTEMBER 2006

Florence he located some rare silk velvet made by a crafts-man whose 200-year-old looms had been recommissioned for the restoration of the Kremlin in Moscow.

Cutler recently spoke to international Bentley salespeople explaining the lifestyle of a potential Bentley owner. Some clients buy four or five suits at a time. He refers to one captain of industry (no names, he’s as discreet as a diplo-mat) who buys the same suits every six to seven years.

The final cost of a suit mostly depends on the fabric. Cutler has made a $50,000 overcoat of vicuña. “The fabric should be commensurate with the requirements. Is it for a wedding, a boardroom or riding horses?”

Alan Roberts, a Sydney-based management consultant, allowed Qantas The Australian Way to document the creation of his suit over several weeks.

STEP ONE

MEASUREMENT & STYLEWhile taking 14 different measurements, John Cutler also notes Roberts’s stance, the slope of his shoulders and whether both sides of his body are even. He establishes what style Roberts wants (double-breasted) and builds a rapport. “Communication is very important. It’s not just the measurements, it’s understanding expectations. What I do in life is fulfil expectations.”

STEP TWO

CHOOSING FABRICRoberts chose a wool and cashmere English flannel style, brown with a cream chalkstripe; brown shot-satin lining; buffalo horn buttons; and yellow striped Bemberg lining, a slippery fabric that allows sleeve arms to move easily.

BESPOKE IS A TERM that originates from an era when customers would choose cloth from bolts and the fabric was then considered to be “spoken for”.

It has come to mean tailoring with specific measurements and original patterns for each customer, as opposed to made-to-measure, which uses a pre-existing pattern.

The number of people entering traditional bespoke tailoring is diminishing. John Cutler, a fourth-generation tailor (his grandfather and father made uniforms for Qantas crew during and after WWII), toured Savile Row recently and says UK tailors face the same problems finding skilled staff. Some are employing more machine work or having their suits partly made offshore.

Cutler travels overseas several times a year to visit suppliers, source fabric and see clients. On his last trip to

FINISHED SUITVoila! John Cutler adjusts the final fitting of Alan Roberts’s handmade suit. A bespoke suit takes skilled craftspeople about 60 hours, with the coat alone requiring some 45 hours of work.

COST: $4500-$6000 with “good, practical cloth” – depends on fabric. TIMING: 6-8 weeks, depending on complexity and the client’s availability for fittings.

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STEP FOUR

CUTTING THE CLOTHCutting interprets the templates into cloth and Cutler stresses the importance of the cutter’s role. “Sometimes I vary the pattern to fine-tune the line according to what I know will work for a particular figure. Clients often think the more fittings the better, but the more you can do at the beginning, at the cutting stage, the better the outcome.” While some people talk about a particular tailor’s style, Cutler believes he must be flexible enough to provide what the customer wants, whether “a loose Boss-style or a tight-fitting Guards outfit”.

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STEP FIVE

CANVAS AND HAND-STITCHING The wool, cotton and horsehair layers of interlining create the superstructure for the suit. The chosen fabric is draped over this shell, which is then lined. Painstaking hand-stitching creates a shape that is not necessarily the shape of the client, but ensures a flattering line as well as free movement and comfort. Specialists work on coats, trousers, waistcoats and overcoats, each craftsman working on one garment from start to finish.

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STEP THREE

PATTERN DRAFTINGIndividual templates are created for each client based upon measurements and chosen style. Cutting is a vital stage. “The better the cut, the more straightforward the process,” Cutler says. Good cutting reduces the need for multiple fittings. Cutler’s 42 years of experience allow him to express the individuality of each suit while matching the body shape and required style.

MEN’S FASHION


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DECEMBER 2005 QANTAS 137

AUSTRALIA SLUG CLEAR

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BESPOKE TAILORS

NEW SOUTH WALES

JH CUTLERGround floor,23-25 O’Connell Street,Sydney. (02) 9232 7122.www.cutlerbespoke.com

VICTOR ALACQUA28 Cross Street, Double Bay, Sydney. (02) 9328 1630.Has been in Double Bay 31 years. Trained in Sydney under a “top Italian tailor”. Fabric is “very, very important. Everything is the very best available”. Works 6-8 weeks on a suit. Customers are “top businesspeople”.

CASA ADAMOShop 2, 39-45 Norton Street, Leichhardt, Sydney. (02) 9569 6419.www.casaadamo.comAdamo Marrone started his award-winning business in Haberfield in 1970. “We are very dedicated. All handmade,” he says. Fabric is top brands from Europe; customers are “top businesspeople”.

VICTORIA

CHARLES MAIMONE1 Crossley Street,Melbourne. (03) 9662 1636.Has worked in Melbourne for 45 years. Trained in Messina, Sicily. Early customers included restaurateurs (Florentino, The Society), but these days are businessmen and politicians.

SOUTH AUSTRALIA

TERRY GASSON111 Gays Arcade,Adelaide. (08) 8223 2035.Trained in Savile Row and has been in Gays Arcade for 26 years. Describes bespoke as “an individual making for an individual”. Has interstate and international customers.

MEN’S FASHION

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STEP SEVEN

SETTING IN SLEEVESAt measuring and cutting stage, close attention is paid to the shape of the client’s shoulders and how arms are held. If one shoulder is lower, the arm is often held back; the sleeve needs to be set back for a clean line and the length adjusted. Cutler now checks overall balance, and that the body of the garment is close to the neck, before the collar goes on.

STEP SIX

THE FIRST FITTING This is really about proving the pattern, says Cutler, and picking up any nuance that may have been missed by the eye. It allows the client to say whether it’s the right length, whether there is too much room or too little. The cutter checks the progress. The coat or trouser maker may be called from the workroom to see the garment they have worked on.

STEP NINE

FINE-TUNINGThe final balance is checked. Buttons are adjusted at the front. Cutler checks the fullness of the jacket at the waist and across the back so there is room to move, but not pucker.

STEP EIGHT

BALANCE & FITTING At this stage the right shoulder was undone and let out to allow for Roberts’s different shoulder heights. Trouser lengths are checked to ensure the legs fall properly on the shoe. Do the seat and waist of the trouser have clean lines? The collar must sit properly on the neck but still allow for the correct fall where the coat buttons will fasten.

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AUSTRALIA SLUG CLEAR

HANDMADE SHOE

FINISHED SHOEMost Andrew McDonald shoes use Australian or New Zealand

calf leather tanned in Italy.

If the shoe fi ts, it’s probably the handmade product of a craftsman.

AFORMER PHOTOGRAPHER, Andrew McDonald’s “eureka!” moment came when shooting London shoemaker Paul Harnden. Back in Australia, he

acquired a TAFE certificate in footwear and in 1996 won a Churchill Fellowship to study with master shoemakers John Lobb in London and Paris, “where I learned to make men’s shoes properly”. Most of his male customers are business-men with problem feet and orthotics “who need to look smart”. He also created boots for both the Star Wars and Superman movies that were filmed in Sydney.

1STEP ONE

MEASURINGWidth, height and length of the foot are measured and its shape traced. A wooden last (“the chassis that determines the shape of the shoe”) is chosen depending on size and style. The customer chooses leather type, colour, grain and thickness.

STEP FOUR

FINISHING & POLISHINGOnce the toile is adjusted to the individual foot to ensure the upper fits correctly, the sole is welted (stitched) onto the shoe. The shoe is finally buffed to a polish.

2STEP TWO

PATTERN MAKINGA two-dimensional card pattern of the upper is made from the three-dimensional last, incorporating details such as stitching and brogue holes (as in the finished shoe photo). “Clicking” is the cutting of the leather from the pattern.

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STEP THREE

CLOSING & LASTING“Closing” involves stitching the parts of the upper, the lining and stiffening. In “lasting”, the insole is tacked to the bottom of the last, the upper is pulled over the last and glued to the insole to form a toile. A second fitting at this stage ensures a correct fit.

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COST: men’s shoes start at $1600.TIMING: 4-6 weeks.

ANDREW MCDONALD Shoemakers since 199258 William Street, Paddington.(02) 9358 6793. www.andrewmcdonald.com.au

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ROSLYN & EUGENE NOTERMANSHemden Master Shirtmakers, since 1974 1024-1026 High Street, Armadale, Melbourne. (03) 9509 0933.www.hemden.com.au

SHIRTS SO GOOD

MEN’S FASHION


A bespoke shirt makes sure you look hot under the collar.

COLLARS MATTER to Eugene Notermans. A bespoke shirtmaker for 32 years, he prides himself on the difference that a collar can make to a businessman’s

appearance. The subtle nuance between collar styles can complement the chin and face – or not. “We look at it from the point of view of a passport photo; you only see the face and collar.” The bespoke experience provides advice and consultation to customers. “We dress people for public appearances and boardrooms. We work in a very traditional European way,” Notermans says.

1STEP TWO

CHOOSING FABRIC & STYLEIf the customer travels and uses harsh hotel laundries, Hemden recommends end-on-end, Oxford, pinpoint or twill fabrics that have two-fold or more densely woven cotton. Hemden advises which collar style flatters the wearer. French cuff or barrel? Pocket or no pocket? Fitted or loose? Pleats?

STEP ONEMEASURING UPEugene Notermans works from top to bottom, starting with the neck measurement, fitting two fingers within the tape to allow enough room. He measures the yoke from shoulder to shoulder, noting the shoulder’s slope and the customer’s body shape. He measures chest (with a deep breath), waist and hips. Sleeves are measured from the nape, across the shoulder to the wrist knuckle.

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STEP THREE

PATTERN & CUTTING A pattern maker is always present at this stage to see the customers posture and body shape. A pattern is drafted on paper and the amount of material required is calculated. The fabric is cut off the roll, then washed to remove sizing and to preshrink. It then goes to the pattern maker and is pressed and cut.

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THE FINISHED SHIRTThe fabric is made of Egyptian cotton yarn, spun and woven in Switzerland. The classical collar has enough width and

height to take a thick or a slim necktie knot. The customer

has chosen French cuffs, no pocket and mother-of-pearl

buttons. Measurements include body length from

collar to bottom of trouser fly, upper arm, forearm and wrist.

COST: first shirt, pattern

making and fitting, $375.

Subsequent shirts, $325.

TIMING: two to three weeks.


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MEN’S FASHION

BESPOKESHIRTMAKERS

Several shirtmakers offer “bespoke” services that involve personal measurements, but no fittings. Most have facilities to order on-line once the client has been measured.

THOMAS APPLEBEE

(02) 9502 6200. www.thomasapplebee.com.auTailor Roger Touma measures in offices (about 15 minutes) and produces unique patterns for each customer. Customers choose from all Italian fabrics. $180 a shirt; three-week delivery. Part of the Skye Group that makes shirts for top-end retailers including Henry Buck’s, Harrolds and Vince Maloney & Co.

BESPOKE BY GANTON

(02) 9550 1044. www.bespokeshirts.com.auDanielle Marmot started custom-making shirts in 1997 using computerised technology. She visits clients at home or in offices to establish size and style. Customers choose from 400 available fabrics. Sessions take from 15 minutes to an hour. Measurements are fed into a computer that produces individual patterns for each client. Shirts are delivered 18 working days later. Prices depend on fabric and range from $190 to $280. She visits Brisbane and Melbourne.

HERRINGBONE(02) 9212 2911. www.herringbone.com.auHerringbone offers a “bespoke” service with measurements taken in shops and a seven-day turnaround. Customers choose from made-to-measure style books and seasonal fabrics. $325 for one shirt, $279 each for three.

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STITCHINGThe shirt is loosely stitched and the cuffs and collar attached for the first fitting. This takes about 20 minutes with the pattern maker in attendance. The shirt and pattern are adjusted where necessary. Back inthe workroom the shirt is recut and fully reassembled with collar and cuffs, and finished according to customer specifications. The thread used matches the weight and density of the fabric.

STEP SIX

CUFFS & COLLAR Hemden prefers fused collars where the lining is adhered to the fabric with heat and pressure. This gives a smooth collar, as lining and fabric can shrink at different rates. Hemden has 40-50 collar shapes. “Variations are subtle. Half a centimetre can make a difference to whether it will complement the chin and face.”

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STEP FIVE

BUTTONS & CAREHemden uses mother-of-pearl buttons sourced from Japan. High-quality machines make very fine buttonholes. Buttons are strategically positioned according to chest prominence to

minimise front stretch, especially on fuller figures. Notermans recommends avoiding commercial laundries (“from damp to dry in six seconds”) and says using a rajah (silk) cloth when ironing collars and cuffs at home can prolong shirt life by 40 per cent.

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BESPOKE NECKTIE

MEN’S FASHION

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COST: tailored, handmade using bespoke designed fabric, $295. FOUR-FOLD off-the-rack, $195. SIX-FOLD off-the-rack, $245. TIMING: off-the-roll fabric, one week; bespoke fabric, 10 weeks.

FINISHED TIEEach Rochefort tie has an

embroidered marque. A robust, hand-knotted stitch is a mark of a well-made tie.

SHANE ROCHEFORTBespoke neckties, shirts & suits since 2001

Shop C2, ground fl oor, 185 Elizabeth Street, Sydney. www.rochefort.com.au

AHANDMADE, SIX-FOLD NECKTIE has substance. The stiffness of the fabric and construction ensures a perfect knot and that the tie sits on the chest with

what Shane Rochefort calls an “abundance factor”. It is pleated three times on each side of the back gusset and provides weight and a generous roll. Rochefort designs all his silks, which are manufactured in Italy (for jacquards) and Britain (for twills). One of the few bespoke necktie makers in Australia, he also tailors made-to-measure shirts and suits, which are lined with his tie fabrics.

The perfect accompaniment for a bespoke suit? A bespoke necktie.

STEP ONECHOOSING A FABRICA necktie cut-out template helps visualise the completed tie when selecting fabric. The cloth is always cut on the bias at a 45-degree angle to the weave to ensure the optimum hang.

STEP TWOPATTERN CUTTINGAll components of the necktie are cut to match the pattern of the fabric. Twills tend to be striped while jacquards have more elaborate patterns and brocades.

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146 QANTAS DECEMBER 2005 146 QANTAS SEPTEMBER 2006

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TIE RACK

654321

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STEP THREEASSEMBLING PARTSEach necktie comprises six pieces: the lining of combed Italian or Danish wool (main photo); the front and back blades, which are seen; the front and back tipping, which is sewn onto the blades; and the neckline, which is sewn between the front and back blades. The lining is inserted (bottom left) and the tie is then folded and pressed to give shape.

STEP FIVEFINAL STITCHINGA single strand of thick gauge cotton is anchored at each end by hand knotting and stitched up the entire back length of the necktie. This has enough give to permit the tie to be pulled when unknotting, but ensures the tie does not warp or strain.

STEP FOURFRONT TIPPINGThe front and back tipping covers the lining. The tipping is seen when the tie is viewed from the back and, with the the point of the blade, forms a perfect square. The fabric rolls at the edges of a hand-made necktie rather than being flat-pressed.

1 Armani $245

2 Hermès $220

3 Zegna $180

4 Louis Vuitton $260

5 Louis Vuitton $260

6 Burberry $198

As an alternative to bespoke

designs, here is a selection

of off-the-rack designer ties.

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CANDY STRIPES

MEN’S FASHION

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1 Paul Smith Classic underwear $59. (02) 9331 8222.

2 Déclic tie $100-$140. (03) 9387 4811.

3 Paul Smith cotton robe $190. (02) 9331 8222.

4 Déclic socks $30. (03) 9387 4811.

5 Henry Buck’s handkerchief $30.1800 651 399.

6 Gant multistripe belt $139. (02) 9221 4994.

7 Derek Rose multistripe pyjamas from Henry Buck’s. $295. 1800 651 399.

8 Bally Abaia travel bag $1150.

(02) 9519 2433.

9 Déclic tie $100-$140. (03) 9387 4811.

10 Arthur Galan AG multistripe shirt $198. (03) 9827 3703.

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AUSTRALIA SLUG CLEARMEN’S FASHION

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1 Herringbone tie $119-$170. (02) 9212 2911.

2 RM Williams Monsoon/Copper Redbank shirt $89. 1800 339 532.

3 Déclic tie $100-$140. (03) 9387 4811.

4 Henry Buck’s braces $125. 1800 651 399.

5 Gianfranco Ferré business shirt from Harrolds. $550. 1300 888 828.

6 Herringbone Carnival shirt $179. (02) 9212 2911.

7 Herringbone tie $119-$170. (02) 9212 2911.

8 Richard James socks from Déclic. $40. (03) 9387 4811.

9 Henry Buck’s handkerchief $30. 1800 651 399.

10 Gant Orion blazer from Henry Buck’s. $495. 1800 651 399.

11 Luciano Rossetti cufflinks from Farage. $149. (02) 9212 4509.


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BAN THE TAN

L OVE FOR THIS SUNBURNT LAND causes our skin more damage than we realise. With one in two Australian men developing sunspots, a precursor to

skin cancer, Dr Stephen Shumack, honorary secretary of the Australasian College of Dermatologists, warns that we are paying the price for our nonchalance.

YOU MAY NOT KNOWIt can take only 10 minutes under the Australian sun to burn. Many of us commend ourselves for evading sunburn. However, cumulative sun damage is just as dangerous as the obvious stinging and peeling damage. Regular daily sun exposure without protection can add up to the equivalent of two sunburns a week. When you’re flying, keep in mind that you’re closer to the sun. UVA rays don’t manifest in physical signs of burning, so you won’t notice the damage. Close the blind if you’re in the window seat and apply a light sunscreen.

DANGER ZONESAustralians are well conditioned to reaching for the hat and sunscreen when venturing outdoors. The popularity of the cap versus the wide-brimmed hat is a contentious issue for dermatologists. The cap leaves the ears, temples and back of the neck exposed. If you choose to wear a cap, apply sunscreen to those areas that aren’t protected. The backs of hands are a problem area for people who do a substantial amount of driving. If you’re going on a long drive you may need to invest in driving gloves or reapply sunscreen hourly. Men with shaved heads or who are sparse up top must protect their crown with a hat or sunscreen, “even if outdoors for no more than one minute”, Shumack says.

CHECK-UPIf you are fair, your family has a history of skin cancer or you’re often outdoors, you may need to have a check-up in your 20s. After 40, you should have yearly check-ups. Any suspicious spots herald a trip to the GP at any age.

WHAT TO LOOK FORAny bump, lump, ulcer or mark that does not go away or changes shape or colour is suspect. The most common skin cancer is basal cell carcinoma (BCC). Fifty per cent of Aus-tralians will find one of these lurking at some point in their lives. BCCs occur mainly in fair-skinned people and sun-

WORDS LARA PICONE


MEN’S SKINCARE

DR SEBAGHDeep Exfoliating Mask, $155. Evens skin tone appearance. Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream, $220, five doses. Wards off

environmental irritants.

ULTRACEUTICALSProtective Daily Moisturiser SPF30+, $60 each. Protects against both UVA and UVB rays. Not too heavy; good protection for everyday use.

CLARINS SPF 30Sun Control Cream, $38. Incorporates plant extracts to maintain skin’s longevity. Sun Control Stick, $30. Designed to protect ears, nose and lips.


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light is often the cause. They should be treated as soon as possible. Melanomas make up five per cent of skin-cancer cases in Australia. Often manifesting as flat, dark-brown or black, irregular marks that change appearance, melano-mas grow quickly and are considerably more dangerous than BCCs. They can be treated effectively by a GP if discov-ered early – why regular skin checks are important.

TURNING BACK THE CLOCKAvoidance is better than restoration. The ravages of reckless sun exposure over the years can be reversed only partially. Topical agents such as glycolic peels, products with alpha hydroxy acid, or stronger chemical peels and laser resurfac-ing can treat the signs of accumulated sun damage, but they’re hardly miraculous. Shumack says these treatments are no substitute for protection.

WHO IS AT RISKSkin cancer is indiscriminate; everyone is at risk. However those with fair skin and freckles need to be particularly careful as their skin produces less melanin (the pigment that protects skin from UV rays) than dark and olive-skinned people. Sun damage occurs throughout life, most-ly during teenage years, but spots often won’t start to show until you reach your 40s. “I just got one on my eyelid – and I’m 39, a dermatologist and very careful”, says Dr Leslie Baumann, author of The Skin Type Solution.

TIPSApply a SPF (sun protection factor) of 30+ sunscreen after shaving every day. Place your sunscreen next to your tooth-brush as a reminder to apply every morning. As we get older our skin dries out, so moisturiser with a sunscreen is a good option. Lotion and gel moisturisers without a heavy residue are suitable for men unaccustomed to applying face creams. Gels are also more suited to oily complexions.

WHAT YOU NEEDBuy a sunscreen that gives UVA and UVB coverage. For the Australian climate use no less than SPF 30+ sunscreen. In the sun reapply every hour, as the ingredients break down with sun exposure. Be mindful that a T-shirt can provide as little as SPF 5 – Baumann recommends sun-protective clothing. Surfers, boaties and skiers need to combat reflect-ed light, paying attention to areas that normally evade sun exposure, such as under the chin. Lips need extra protec-tion. Use a zinc-based sunscreen with titanium dioxide. And always slather sunscreen generously. �

The Cancer Council Australia www.cancer.org.au


MEN’S SKINCARE

CLINIQUEUV Response Body Cream SPF 30, $31. Fragrance- and oil-free skin replenisher. Super City Block SPF 30+, $36. Lightweight protection for sensitive skin.

ELLA BACHÉ GREAT 30+Sports Block $34; Face Saver $32; Lip Guard $10. Sports Block, Lip Guard are water-resistant for two hours. Face Saver has antioxidant complex.

RÉVIVEMoisturizing Renewal Cream, $237. This night cream with epidermal growth factor, developed to treat burn victims, works to restore skin vitality.

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the australian way september

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