TI B E T

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A R O U N D T I B E T 526–547

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Tibet At a Glance

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BORDERED ON THREE SIDES by some of the world’shighest mountain ranges – the Himalayas, the

Karakoram, and the Kulun – Tibet has remained inrelative isolation. Sheltered first by its inaccessibilityand then, in the age of air travel, by Chinese occu-pation, the “Roof of the World” has only recentlyopened to foreign visitors. Its one major city, Lhasa,retains its spiritual core: the Jokhang; the venerablepalace of the Dalai Lamas, the Potala; and greatmonasteries such as Drepung and Sera. Whereveryou go, Tibet offers panoramic vistas of high-altitudedesert fringed by peaks, but the turquoise depths ofLake Namtso and the sky-scraping peaks of MountEverest are particularly worth visiting.

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SHIQUANHE

• NAMRU

SAKYA MONASTERY

•BARGA

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GUNSANG

• BASAGUKE

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•COQEN

•GERZE

•RUTOG•

DOMAR

Pangong-tso

Yarlung Tsangpo

(Brahmaputra)

•BURANG

• LUGU

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LUNGGAR

THE NEPALBORDER

EVERESTBASE CAMP

SHIGATSE

Yamdrok Lake the largest lake in south Tibet,seen from the Kamba-la Pass

Kashgar

SIGHTS AT A GLANCE

Towns & CitiesGyantse 5Lhasa 1The Nepal Border 9

Areas of Natural BeautyNamtso Lake 4

Everest Base Camp 8

Temples & MonasteriesSakya Monastery 7Samye Monastery pp540–41 2Shigatse & Tashilunpo 6Tsurphu Monastery 3

Thangka hanging on a door at theJokhang Temple, Lhasa

The snow-blown majesty of Mount Everest, known as Chomolungma to the Tibetans

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The Potala Palace seen from the rooftop of the Jokhang, Lhasa’s holiest temple

GETTING THERELhasa is well served by air with visitors arriving from Chengdu,Sichuan, or Kathmandu, Nepal. An overland route alsoconnects Kathmandu and Lhasa, but visitors must be part of a tour group. The other bus route is from Golmud, Qinghai,where the China International Travel Service (CITS) will arrangethe journey. Whatever the means of entry, a permit from theTibetan Tourism Bureau (TTB) – (0086) 0891 633 1174 – isrequired. Once in Tibet, travel may be limited, as permits arerequired for most areas. The best option is to arrange a tourwith an agency in Lhasa, who will also handle permits.

LHASA

SAMYE MONASTERY

TSURPHU MONASTERY

NAMTSO LAKE

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International airport

Major road

Minor road

SEE ALSO

• Where to Stay p573

• Where to Eat p597

Golmud

Garze

Kangding

Since the introduction ofBuddhism in the 7th century,the religion has permeated all aspects of Tibetan life, with monasteries acting aspalaces, administrative centers,and schools. Ruled bypriests, Tibet was feudal inoutlook and resisted all modernization. The countrythus entered the modern worldwithout an army, lay education, orroads, and with few technologies moresophisticated than the prayer wheel.

Buddhism was introduced in Tibet bySongsten Gampo (AD 608–50). Aremarkable ruler who also unified thecountry, Songsten Gampo, was converted to Buddhism by his Chineseand Nepalese wives. The next religiousking, Trisong Detsen (742–803)

consolidated the Buddhist faith,inviting the Indian teacherPadmasambhava (Guru Rin-poche) to Tibet and foundingSamye Monastery. A revival of

the native Bon religion in the8th century led to Buddhistpersecution, and though the

religion re-emerged later, thekingdom disintegrated into several principalities.

In the 13th century, Tibet submittedto the all-conquering Mongols, and in1247 the head lama of Sakya Monasteryvisited their court and was appointedTibet’s ruler. Subsequently, Tsongkhapa(1357–1419) established the Gelugpa orYellow Hat sect. His disciples becamethe Dalai Lamas, rulers of Tibet for 500years. Each new Dalai Lama is seen asa reincarnation of the previous one.

T I B E T5 2 0

A P O R T R A I T O F T I B E T

TIBET’S REPUTATION AS A LAND OF EXOTIC MYSTERY is due to centuries

of geographic isolation and a unique theocratic culture, based

on Buddhism but influenced by an older shamanistic faith

called Bon. In 1950, China marched into Tibet and annexed the

country. Despite this upheaval, the traditional culture and values of

the Tibetans remain strong and continue to lure and enchant visitors.

Sprawling Ganden Monastery, built in the early 15th century

Buddha mural,Jokhang Temple

I N T R O D U C I N G T I B E T 5 2 1

which the dead are left in theopen for vultures, are practicalin a land where firewood isscarce and the earth too hardto dig. Polyandry (the practiceof having more than onehusband at a time) and celiba-cy of the clergy were necessaryforms of population control.

Farming this largely barrenland is difficult and the onlycrop that grows easily is barley.Moreover, almost a quarter ofthe people are nomads, keepingherds of dzo (a cross between a

yak and a cow) and living in tents. Theirlivestock provide products vital foreveryday Tibetan life – yak butter is usedin the ubiquitous bitter butter tea andburnt in smoky chapel lamps.

Tibet’s roads are few, and journeysare always time consuming. The

busiest route is the FriendshipHighway between Lhasa andthe Nepalese border, whichpasses through Shigatse,Gyantse, and the dramaticSakya Monastery. It is along, bumpy but rewarding

diversion from here to theEverest base camp, whichoffers great views of theforbidding peak. Lhasa, too,can be a good base for

exploring some of the other isolateddestinations. The monasteries ofDrepung, Sera, Ganden, and Tsurphuare easily accessible, while LakeNamtso and Samye are farther away.

Buddha’s all-seeing eyes on the Kumbum, Gyantse

In 1950, the Chinese took advantage ofa tenuous claim to the territory andinvaded, calling it “liberation.” In theuprising that followed in 1959, the 14thDalai Lama (b.1935) fled to India,where he still heads the TibetanGovernment-in-Exile. By 1970 morethan a million Tibetans had died either directly at thehands of the Chinese orthrough famine caused byincompetent agriculturalpolicies. Tibet’s culturalheritage was razed, and over6,000 monasteries destroyed.

Conditions have improvedtoday, and there are signs ofreligious revival. Manymonasteries that were ravagedduring the Cultural Revolution are nowbeing repaired and returned to theirformer roles, but creating or owning animage of the Dalai Lama is still illegal.

The ancient city of Lhasa is the heartof Tibet, though Han Chinese immi-grants now outnumber ethnic Tibetans.However, the old quarter, home of thePotala Palace and the Jokhang Temple,illustrates the determination with whichTibetans have held onto their culturaltraditions. A common sight here are thepious and cheerful pilgrims, swingingprayer wheels and performingenergetic prostrations as they makekora – holy circuits – around the temple.

Most of Tibet is desert and theaverage altitude is over 13,000 ft (4,000 m) with temperatures well belowfreezing in winter. Many customs aroseas response to life in this harsh envi-ronment. Sky burials, for example, in

Monks debating under a tree, a common sight atSera Monastery

A Tibetan mandala, aritual tantric diagram

Tibetan Buddhism

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WHEEL OF LIFEThe continuous cycle of existenceand re-birth is represented by the Wheel of Life, clutched in the jaws of the Lord of Death,Yama. Achieving enlightenment is the only way to transcend theincessant turning of the wheel.

MONKS AND MONASTERIESAt the height of monastic powerthere were some 2,700 monas-teries in Tibet, and numerousBuddhist sects. Most families senta son to become a monk and livea life of celibacy and meditation.

At the axle the threeevils, a snake (anger),a pig (ignorance), anda cockerel (desire),eternally chase eachother’s tails.

A soul can take one of two paths: the lightpath leads to auspiciousrebirths until finalliberation, the darkto poor rebirthsand hell.

Chortens hold the ashes of spiritual teachers. Thesquare base symbolizesearth; the pinnaclecrown represents theethereal sphere.

The Nyingma order is the oldestand most traditional of all thesects. It was founded during the 600s by Guru Rinpoche.

The Gelugpa or YellowHat sect was founded inthe 1300s by thereformist Tsongkhapa.Dominant in Tibetanpolitics for centuries, thesect is led by the DalaiLama and PanchenLama (see p520, p544).

BON – TIBET’S PRE-BUDDHIST FAITH

Bon, an animistic faith with emphasis on magic andspirits and the taming of demons, was Tibet’s nativereligious tradition before the arrival of Buddhism.Many Tibetan legends concern the tamingof local gods and their conversion tothe new faith. Much of today’sBuddhist iconography, rituals, andsymbols, including prayer flagsand sky burials – where thedeceased is chopped to piecesand left on a mountainside forvultures – are Bon in origin. Theancient faith has been revived bya handful of Bon monasteries in Tibet.

A 19th-century bronze figure of a Bon deity

THE MAHAYANA SCHOOL of Buddhism, whichemphasizes compassion and self-sacrifice,

came to Tibet from India in the 7thcentury. As it spread it took on manyaspects of the native, shamanistic Bon

religion, incorporating Bon rituals anddeities. Like most Buddhists, Tibetansbelieve in re-incarnation – consecutivelives that are better or worse dependingon the karma, or merit, accrued in the

previous life. For many Tibetans, Buddhism suffusesdaily life so completely that the concept of a religionseparate from day to day occurences, is completelyforeign – there is no word for religion in Tibetan.

A guardian deityor dharmapala

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THE TIBETAN PANTHEONAn overwhelming plethora of deities, buddhas, anddemons, many of them re-incarnations or evil aspectsof each other, make up the Tibetan pantheon. Buddhas,“awakened ones,” have achieved enlightenment andreached nirvana. Bodhisattvas have postponed the pur-suit of nirvana to help others achieve enlightenment.

PRAYER AND RITUALWorship in Tibet is replete with ritual objectsand customs, many of which help with theaccrual of merit. Koras, which are alwaysfollowed clockwise, can be short circuits ofholy sites or fully-fledged pilgrimages. Themost auspicious kora is around Mount Kailash,considered the center of the universe; nirvanais guaranteed on the 108th circuit.

The inner wheeldepicts the six realmsinto which beings canbe reborn – gods,demigods, humans,animals, ghosts, and demons.

The outer ring illustratesthe 12 factors that determinekarma, including spiritualawareness (a blind man witha stick) and acts of volition (a potter molding pots).

This ritual drum,made from the upper

part of two skulls, hasextra potency as a tool

of prayer, because it is fashioned fromhuman remains.

Dharmapalas, defenders of the law,fight against the enemies of Buddhism.Originally demons, they were tamed byGuru Rinpoche, who bound them to the

faith. Mahakala, one of the mostcommon dharmapalas, is a wrathful

manifestation of Chenresig.

A worshiper spins a hand-held prayer

wheel, rings a Tibetanbell called a drilbuand holds offerings of banknotes, all in

aid of prayer.

Spinning a prayer wheel clockwise sends aprayer written on coiled paper to heaven. The

largest wheels contain thousands of prayersand are turned by crank or water power.

Mani stones arecarved with theSanskrit mantra “ommani padme hum”

(hail to the jewel in the lotus), a powerful

Buddhist chant.

BUDDHIST DEITIES

Jowo Sakyamuni:the present BuddhaJampa (the Maitreya):the future BuddhaDipamkara (Marmedze):the past BuddhaGuru Rinpoche (Padmasam-bhava): earthly manifestation ofBuddha who spread Buddhismthroughout TibetChenresig (Avalokitesvara):multi-armed bodhisattva of compassionDrolma (Tara): female aspect of compassion

Jampalyang (Manjusri) represents

knowledge andlearning. He raises a sword ofdiscriminatingwisdom in hisright hand.

Nomadic life

T I B E T5 2 4

Each household has a hometent, four-sided and made

out of the coarse hairs foundon a yak’s belly. Often, thetent is pitched in a pit andsurrounded by stone wind-

breaks. Another cloth tentmay be used for traveling.

These men enjoy cups of salted tea made withyak butter, a popular drink throughout Tibet. Thesalt combats dehydration and the fat gives much-needed energy. They wear knee-length lokbars,with a black strip at the edge, the traditional dressfor male nomads.

Dried yoghurt is thought toprotect the skin from the sun,but men don’t use it at all;women smear it on with a tuft of wool as a cosmetic.

THE HERDNomads rely totally on their herds for food,clothing, shelter, and sometimes income, so nopart of any animal goes to waste. Goats, forexample, provide milk for yoghurt, skins forclothing, wool for trading, and dung for fuel.

Traditionally, nomadswear belted robes madeout of goatskin calledlokbars that double asblankets at night. Thefleece is worn on theinside, while the sturdyhide is exposed to windand snow. The sleevesare extra long to keep

hands warm. Womenbraid their hair and weartheir wealth as jewelry.Coral, in particular, ishighly valued.

THE CHANG TANG, a high plateau covering almost 70 percent of Tibet,

is home to about a quarter ofTibetans, many of whom are nomads,or drokba, as the harsh, arid climateprecludes farming. Their existencehas barely been touched by modernlife, and they still herd sheep, goats,and dzo (a cross between a yak and

a domesticated cow), as they have for centuries. Theanimals are adapted to high altitude, having larger lungs and more hemoglobin than lowland animals. Thenomad’s culture is also adapted to the harsh, arid climate.

Young nomad and dzo

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The wool of the yaks, sheep, and goats in the nomad’s herd is woven using a loom,creating robust textiles for tent walls, blankets,and clothing. The incomes of many nomadshave been augmented recently by thepopularity of cashmere wool, the soft down on a goat’s underbelly.

A woman spreads yakdung over a windbreakwall. Once it has dried,she will scrape thedung off the wall anduse it to fuel fires forcooking. Such tasks arestrictly demarcated bygender; women do allthe milking, churning,cooking, weaving, andfuel gathering, and sowork harder than themen for most of the year.

A nomad pours yak butter from achurn for adding to strong, saltytea. The nomadic diet is basic; thestaple is tsampa, roasted barleyflour, which, often eaten dry andon its own, provides about half of anomad’s calories. Goat’s milkyoghurt, radishes, and occasionalmeat stews supplement the diet.

MOVING THE HERDS

Nomads on the Chang Tang do not move continuously, nor do they move far – only around 10 to 40 miles (15 to 65 km), as the growing season is the same all overthe plateau. Indeed, they try to minimize travel, declaringthat it weakens livestock. Some families even build ahouse at their main encampment. In the fall, after theherds have eaten most of the vegetation at the mainencampment and the growing season has ended, thenomads move their livestock to a secondary plain forgrazing. Here livestock must forage for eight to nine months on dead vegetation. Later the nomads may move some of their herds farther up the hills. They then return to their original encampment.

A herder driving his yaks over asnowy mountain pass

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T I B E T

The fertile valley created by the Yarlung Tsangpo river is bordered by theHimalayas along Tibet’ssouthern boundary. Amere 14 million yearsold, the Himalayas are theyoungest mountains on earth,and also the highest, with over 70 peaks reaching elevations of23,000 ft (7,000 m), includingMount Everest, the world’s highestat 29,029 ft (8,848 m). The spectacleof these snow-clad peaks is perhapswhat led to Tibet being called the“Land of Snows.” In reality, at anaverage altitude of over 13,000 ft(4,000 m), the thin air intensifies thesunshine making acclimatizationand sun screen essential.

Tibet’s eastern reaches are riddledwith gorges carved out by the three

of China’s rivers –the mighty Yangzi,the Salween, and

the Mekong. Thewide, open spaces ofnorthern Tibet arehome to nomads

who live a hardy pas-toral existence. These

wilderness areas are slowlyshrinking as a result of theencroaching industrial world.

However, despite rapid devel-opment and more than 50 years ofChinese occupation, Tibet stillclings strongly to its culturalheritage, most visible in therevitalized monasteries. Tourismtoo, is a growing industry as moreareas are opening up, allowingvisitors tantalizing glimpses of aonce-forbidden world.

Monk peering from behind a magnificent door at Labrang Monastery

Main prayer hall at Ganden Monastery, the first Gelugpa monastery in Tibet

THE ENORMOUS TIBETAN PLATEAU stretches across an awesome

463,323 sq miles (1,200,000 sq km). Its northern expanse is

the Chang Tang, a vast, uninhabited high-altitude desert,

dotted with enormous, brackish lakes. Nearly all the main sights

and cities, as well as half of Tibet’s population of 2 million people,

are concentrated in the less harsh southern region.

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Strikingly-colored mural at the Lukhang Temple

Prayer wheels at the Ramoche Temple

t LukhangChing Drol Chi Ling Park.Picturesquely located on anisland in the lake behind thePotala, and cloaked by willowsin summer, this temple is dedicated to the king of thewater spirits (lu), who isdepicted riding an elephant atthe back of the main hall. Theupper floors are decorated withstriking 18th-century murals,representing the Buddhist Pathto Enlightenment. Their greatattention to detail and vividstories offered visual guidanceto the Dalai Lamas (see p520),who retired here for periodsof spiritual retreat.

Buddhist myths dominatethe walls on the second floor,while the top-floor muralsdepict the esoteric yogicpractises of the Indian tantricmasters. They also illustrateepisodes in the life of PemaLingpa, ancestor of the 6thDalai Lama who is creditedwith the Lukhang’s originaldesign in the 17th century.

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TIBET’S CAPITAL SINCE THE 7th century, Lhasais an intoxicating introduction to Tibet.

The Dalai Lamas’ splendid but poignantlyempty seat, the Potala Palace, dominatesthe city from its site on top of Marpo Hill.The old Tibetan quarter to the east isLhasa’s most interesting area; its center-piece is the revered Jokhang Temple. Around it is the Barkhor, which retains itsmedieval character with smoky temples

and cobbled alleys. Most Tibetans come here as pilgrims.The additions of concrete buildings and internet cafésshow how the city has changed over recent decades.

Statue, TsepakLhakhang

t Ramoche # 9am–5pm daily. & 6 fee.The three-story Ramoche, justnorth of the Barkhor area (see pp530–31), is the sistertemple to the Jokhang. It wasbuilt in the 7th century bySongtsen Gampo (see p520) tohouse the statue of JowoSakyamuni (Tibet’s mostvenerated Buddha image),brought by his Chinese wifeWencheng. According to legend, the threat of Chineseinvasion after the king’s deathcompelled his family to hidethe statue inside the Jokhang.

P Potala PalaceSee pp534–5.

It was replaced by a bronzestatue of an eight-year-oldSakyamuni (see pp30–31),part of the dowry of anotherof his wives, the NepalesePrincess Bhrikuti.

The reconstructed templefeatures some huge prayerwheels, and is not as busy asthe Jokhang. Next door is theTsepak Lhakhang, a chapelwith an image of Jampa, theTibetan name for the FutureBuddha (see p523).

T I B E T

Lhasa 1

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Street-by-Street area: see pp530–1

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E Tibet Museum# 10am–5pm daily. &This impressive buildingpresents a rather one-sidedversion of Tibetan history. Ifthe propaganda is ignored,however, the over 30,000relics are worth a visit. Thereare plenty of religious artifacts,but the most interestingdisplays are of rare Tibetanmusical instruments, medicaltools, and even a coracle.

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

* 2,700,000. k Lhasa Airportat Gongkhar, 58 miles (93 km) SEof Lhasa, then bus. c Main BusStation, CAAC, Minibus Station.ª 4WD vehicle. n 208 YuanLin Lu, (0891) 633 3476. _ Losar (1st lunar month).

P Norbulingka# 9:30am–6pm daily. &Today a pleasantly scrubbypark, the Norbulingka (JewelPark) was once the summerpalace of the Dalai Lamas.

Brightly painted doorway,Norbulingka

The Summer Palace of the Dalai Lamas in the Norbulingka

t Ani Tsankhung Nunnery# daily. &Situated in the old Tibetanquarter, the Ani TsankhungMonastery is difficult to find.Wandering through the busyback alleys south of theBarkhor area in search of theplace, can, however, be awonderful experience. It islocated in a yellow buildingon the street running paralleland north of Chingdol DongLu. The nunnery’s main hallcontains a beautiful image ofChenresig, the multi-armedBodhisattva of Compassion(see p523), and behind it liesa meditation chamber used bySongtsen Gampo in the 7thcentury. An air of quiet serenitypervades this quaint place,with its flower bushes andspotless compound. Thenunnery’s main attraction isthe warm welcome thecurious nuns give to visitors.

t Jokhang TempleSee pp532–3.

Founded by the 7th DalaiLama in 1755 and expandedby his successors, the parkcontains several palaces,chapels, and buildings. Thepath west from the entranceleads to the oldest palace, theKelsang Potrang, used bythe 8th to the 13th DalaiLamas. Its main hall has awealth of thangkas (see p536)and a throne. More divertingis the Summer Palace, justnorth of here, which was builtfor the present Dalai Lama in1954. Its audience chamberholds bright murals depictingevents from Tibetan history,from the tilling of the firstfield to the building of thegreat monasteries, includingthe Norbulingka. Next to it arethe Dalai Lama’s meditationroom and bedroom, preservedexactly as he left them in1959, when he escaped fromthis palace disguised as aTibetan soldier and began hisjourney to India. The AssemblyHall where he held state hasa golden throne and colorfulmurals depicting scenes fromthe Dalai Lama’s court, andepisodes from the lives ofSakya Thukpa (Sakyamuni, theHistorical Buddha) and Tsong-khapa, founder of the Gelugpaorder of monks (see p520).

LHASA CITY CENTER

Ani Tsankhung Nunnery 4Jokhang Temple 5Lukhang 2Norbulingka 7Potala Palace 1

Ramoche 3Tibet Museum 6

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Kora (holy route)

LHASA’S LIVELIEST NEIGHBORHOOD, thefascinating Barkhor bustles with pilgrims,

locals, and tourists eager to visit the Jokhang(see pp532–3) – by dusk the crowds areenormous. The pilgrimage circuit or kora thatruns clockwise around the Jokhang is Tibet’sholiest and has been since the 7th century;market stalls have always lined the route toserve the pilgrims staying in the area. Manyof the buildings in the Barkhor are ancient,some dating back to the 8th century.

Despite the efforts of conservationists, some importantbuildings have been demolished and replaced with lessattractive traditional architecture. Still, the Barkhor’scobbled alleyways maintain a unique, archaic character.

STAR SIGHTS

. Jokhang

. Meru Nyingba

Incense burnerJuniper bushes are burnt in the four stone incenseburners, or sangkang, whichmark the route of the kora.

Street-by-Street:The Barkhor

Prayer flags Two poles laden with flagsstand outside the Jokhang.Vertical flag poles originatedin the Amdo region, andrepresent battle flags that have become

signs of peace.

Butter stallA stall-holder sells yak butterfor burning in the Jokhang.Widely available, itgives the area itsdistinctivesmell.

Roof ornament,Jokhang Temple

. Jokhang TempleThe magnificent Jokhang, Tibet’s mostimportant religious structure, sits at theheart of the Bharkor, and is the structurearound which the rest of Lhasa developed.

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L H A S A 5 3 1

The Jamkhang is a15th-century buildinghousing a two-storyimage of the Maitreya.

The Nangmano,complex is home to 22families.

An ancient shrinededicated to PaldenLhamo, the femaleprotector of Lhasa,

is surrounded bymodern buildings.

Stalls along the koraStalls selling all manner of intriguing bric-

à-brac, from cowboy hats to prayer flags,line the entire pilgrimage route. The shopsbehind the stalls have better quality goods,including religious statuary, and carpets.

TromzikhangThis 18th-century buildingonce housed governmentofficials such as the Ambans,representatives of the Qingemperor. Now a housingcomplex, all but the frontwas destroyed in the 1980s.

. Meru NyingbaOriginally founded in the 9th

century, this monastery wasenlarged in the 1800s to become

the Lhasa residence of theNechung Oracle (see p536).Beautifully restored in 1999,

the building includes a wing of public housing.

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THE CONSTANT BUSTLE, gaudy paraphernalia of worship, flickering butter lamps, and

wreaths of heady incense make the JokhangTemple one of Tibet’s most memorableexperiences. The Jokhang was founded inAD 639 to house an image of the Buddhabrought as dowry by the Nepali PrincessBhrikuti on her marriage to King SongtsenGampo. Its location was chosen by another

wife of the king, the Chinese consort Princess Wencheng.She declared that a giant female demon slumberedbeneath the site and a temple must be built over herheart to subdue her. After the king’s death, Wencheng’sown dowry image of Jowo Sakyamuni was moved fromthe Ramoche (see p528) to the Jokhang, where it wasthought to be safer from invading forces.

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STAR SIGHTS

. Chapel of Chenresig

. Chapel of JowoSakyamuni

. Inner Sanctum

Just inside the entrance are thefour Guardian Kings, the Chokyong,one for each cardinal direction.

This stele is inscribed withthe terms of the Sino-Tibetantreaty of AD 822, guaranteeingmutual respect for the borders of the two nations.

Alternativeentrance

Roof ornamentThe spokes of the wheel of law represent the eight paths to enlightenment.

CourtyardThis open courtyard, or dukhang, is the focus for ceremonies duringfestivals. The long altar holdinghundreds of butter lamps marks the entrance to the interior.

Prostrating pilgrimThe Jokhang is Tibet’s mostvenerated site. Pilgrimsbow and pray on theflagstones just outside the temple doors.

Roof detail offierce creature

Jokhang Temple

5 3 3L H A S A

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The Barkhor, Lhasa. # 9am–6pmdaily. Visit from left to rightclockwise. Inner Chapels #8am–noon. & _ Monlam,during the first lunar month.

. Inner SanctumThis houses some of the Jokhang’s most importantstatues, including images of Guru Rinpoche, theJampa and a thousand-armed Chenresig. Thechapels lining the walls are visited clockwise, and there’s a line for the holiest, with monks at hand to enforce crowd discipline.

. Chapel of JowoSakyamuni

Pilgrims crowd around this impassive statue of the 12-year-old Sakyamuni tomake offerings and pray.

Part of Princess Wencheng’sdowry, it is the most revered

image in Tibet.

The chapel of Tsongkhapa has an impressive and accurate image

of the founder of the Gelugpa order.

The Jampaenshrined here is a copy of the onebrought to Tibet byPrincess Bhrikuti.

The chapel ofSongtsen Gampo,where the king isflanked by Wenchengon the right andBhrikuti on the left.

. Chapel of Chenresig A large statue of Chenresig, the Bodhisattva of

compassion, dominates this room. The doorsand frames, crafted by Nepalis in the 7th

century, are among the few remains ofthe original temple.

Prayer WheelsPilgrims spin the

wheels on a routethat surrounds the

inner chapel calledthe Nangkor, one of

the three sacredcircuits of Lhasa.

T I B E T5 3 4

BUILT ON LHASA’S highest point,Marpo Hill, the Potala Palace is

the greatest monumental structure inTibet. Thirteen stories high, with over athousand rooms, it was once theresidence of Tibet’s chief monk andleader, the Dalai Lama, and therefore

the center for both spiritual and temporal power.These days, after the present Dalai Lama’s escapeto India in 1959, it is a vast museum, serving as areminder of Tibet’s rich and devoutly religiousculture, although major political events andreligious ceremonies are still held here. The firstpalace was built by Songtsen Gampo in 631, andthis was merged into the larger building thatstands today. There are two main sections – the White Palace, built in 1645, and the Red Palace, completed in 1693.

Potala Palace

The Chapel of the 5th DalaiLama contains a stupa gildedwith around 6,600 lb (3,000 kg) of gold.

. Golden RoofsSeeming to float above the palace, the gilded roofs (actually copper) cover funerary chapels dedicated to previous Dalai Lamas.

. Chapel of the 13thDalai LamaDecorated with gold andjewels, the stupa of the 13thDalai Lama, containing hismummified remains, isnearly 13 m (43 ft) high.

Red PalaceCourtyard

ThangkaStorehouse

The base is purely structural,holding the palacesonto the steep hill.

STAR SIGHTS

. Chapel of the 13thDalai Lama

. Golden Roofs

. 3D Mandala

. 3D MandalaThis intricate mandala of a palace, covered inprecious metals andjewels, embodies aspects ofthe path to enlightenment.

Bronzeroof statue

L H A S A 5 3 5

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Beijing Zhong Lu, Lhasa.± (0891) 683 4362. # 9am–5pm daily. & extra charges forGolden Roof access and ExhibitionRoom. ^ in chapels, otherwiseextra charges for photography.8 Not suitable for those whofind stairs a problem.

DefensiveEasternBastion

School ofReligiousOfficials

The EasternCourtyard

Maitreya Chapel

East SunshineApartment

View from the Roof of the Red PalaceOn a clear day the view over the valley and on to themountains beyond is unequaled, although the newerparts of Lhasa are less impressive.

White PalaceThe entrance to

the main building hasa triple stairway – themiddle set of stairs isfor the sole use of the

Dalai Lama.

The Western HallLocated on the first floor of the Red Palace,the largest hall inside the Potala contains the holy throne of the 6th Dalai Lama.

Heavenly King Murals

The East Entrance hassumptuous images of

the Four HeavenlyKings, Buddhist

guardian figures.

T I B E T5 3 6

t Drepung Monastery5 miles (8 km) W of Lhasa. # 8am–4pm daily (chapels closebetween noon–3pm). &Drepung meaning “riceheap,” was founded in 1416by Jamyang Choje, a discipleof Tsongkhapa, the founderof the Gelugpa or Yellow Hatorder of monks (see p520). Inits heyday in the 17th-century,it was Tibet’s richest monas-tery, with four colleges and10,000 monks; today there arefewer than a thousand.

The site is vast and theeasiest way to get around isto follow the pilgrims, whocircle the complex clockwise.From the entrance, turn left tothe Ganden Palace, built in1530 as a residence by the2nd Dalai Lama. His ratherplain apartments are upstairson the seventh floor. Thecourtyard is usually busy withwoodcarvers and block-printers creating prayer printsat great speed. Next is theTsogchen or Main AssemblyHall, the most atmosphericbuilding in the complex. About180 pillars hold up the roof,and the room is draped withthangkas and hangings anddecorated with suits of armor.

There is plenty of statuary, withthe finest images in the Chapelof the Three Ages at the backof the Main Assembly Hall.

At the hall’s entrance, stairslead to the upper floor fromwhere it is possible to see themassive head and shouldersof the Maitreya Buddha, thefuture Buddha or Jampa,rising up three stories.Pilgrims prostrate before it

and drink from a holy conchshell. The Tara Chapel nextdoor contains wooden racksof scriptures and a statue ofPrajnaparamita, the Mother ofBuddhas and an aspect of thegoddess Tara; the amulet onher lap contains a tooth saidto belong to Tsongkhapa.Behind the Tsogchen, thelittle Manjusri Temple has arelief image of the Bodhisattvaof Wisdom, Jampalyang, chis-eled out of rock. The circuitcontinues north to the NgagpaCollege, then to variouscolleges toward the southeast.

Each building contains fine sculptures, though somemight prefer to skip them andrest in the courtyard outsidethe Tsogchen. Those who areacclimatized can walk roundthe Drepung kora or pilgrimcircuit, which passes rockpaintings and the cavedwellings of nuns, and offers great views.

t Nechung Monastery4 miles (7 km) W of Lhasa. # 8am–4pm daily (chapels closebetween noon–3pm). & A fifteen-minute walk south-east from Drepung, NechungMonastery was the seat of theTibetan Oracle. The Oraclenot only predicted the future,but also protected theBuddha’s teachings and hisfollowers. During consulta-tions with the Dalai Lama, theOracle, dressed in an elab-orate and weighty costume,

A typically gory tantric painting at Nechung Monastery

THANGKAS AND MANDALAS

Thangkas are religious paintings mounted on brocade thatcarry painted or embroidered images inside a colored bor-der. Seen in temples, monasteries, and homes, they depictsubjects as diverse as the lives of Buddhas, Tibetan theologyand astrology, and mandalas or geometric representations ofthe cosmos. The Tashilunpo Monastery(see p544) displays gigantic thangkasduring its festivals each year.Mandalas are often used asmeditation aids by Buddhistsand are based on a pattern ofcircles and squares around acentral focal point. The PotalaPalace in Lhasa (see pp534–5)has a splendid three-dimensionalmandala made of precious metal.Monks spend days creatingmandalas of colored sand that areswept away on completion tosignify the transient nature of life.

LHASA’S ENVIRONS ARE DOTTED with the major monasteriesof Drepung, Nechung, Sera, and Ganden. Easily

accessible from Lhasa by bus, minibus, or hired vehicle,these are ideal for day-trips, especially for those unableto venture farther afield in Tibet. Agencies in Lhasa hireout landcruisers along with a driver and guide, and alsohandle the necessary permits. Vehicles can take up tofive people – if looking for companions to share thecost, check the bulletin boards in backpacker hotels.

Mandala symbolizing the universe

Exploring Around Lhasa

5 3 7L H A S A

t Sera Monastery2 miles (4 km) N of Lhasa. # 3–5pmdaily. & Founded in 1419 by disciplesof the Gelugpa order, SeraMonastery was famous for itswarrior monks, the Dob-Doa.Once home to 5,000 monks,today there are less than one-tenth that number, althoughthe energetic renovation suggests that this may improve.

Activity centers around itsthree colleges, visited in aclockwise circuit. Turn leftfrom the main path to reachthe first college, Sera Me, thatwas used for instruction inBuddhist basics. Sera Ngag-Pa, a little farther up the hill,was for tantric studies andSera Je, next to it, was forteaching visiting monks. Eachbuilding has a dimly lit mainhall and chapels toward theback that are full of sculptures.The largest and most strikingbuilding in the complex is the

t Ganden Monastery28 miles (45 km) E of Lhasa. cShuttle from the square at JokhangTemple. # 8:50am–4pm daily. & The farthest of the monasteriesfrom Lhasa, Ganden isprobably the one most worthvisiting, with its scenic settinghigh on the Gokpori Ridge.To get a feel of the place, it isbest to travel with the excitedpilgrims on the bus thatleaves from Lhasa’s Barkhorarea every morning at 6:30am,returning at 2pm. Themonastery was founded in

1410 by Tsongkhapa, andits main building, theSerdung Lhakhang,

has as its centerpiecea huge gold andsilver chorten (stupaor funerary mound)with Tsongkhapa’sremains. However,the buildings are

not its main appeal.Its highlight is the

kora, which takes an hour towalk. The circuit offers fineviews of the landscape and achorten or two that pilgrims(and visitors if they wish)must hop around on one leg.

A domestic yak on the steep hills surrounding Ganden Monastery

would go into a trance beforemaking his pronouncements,concluding the session in adead faint. Tibet’s last Oraclefled to India in 1959, andnow the monastery has only a few caretaker monks.Nechung’s decor is startling as the courtyard outside isfilled with gory paintings anddemon torturers. Within thechapels, leering sculptures ofskulls loom out of the gloom.The airy Audience Chamberon the second floor is a wel-come respite. Here, the DalaiLama used to consult theOracle. The roof-level chapel isdedicated to Padmasambhava,the Tantric Buddha, alsoknown as Guru Rinpoche.

Tsogchen located farthest upthe hill. It features wall-lengththangkas, a throne that wasused by the 13th DalaiLama, and images ofhim and of SakyaYeshe, the founderof Sera monastery.At the top of thepath stands theopen-air debatingcourtyard, wellworth a visit at3:30pm every day,when the monksassemble for debates. Theirritualized gestures – clappinghands and stamping when apoint is made – make itfascinating to watch. The Serakora, or pilgrim circuit which

Monks engaged in group debates at Sera Monastery

Rock painting, Sera Monastery

heads west from the mainentrance, takes about an hourto complete and passes somebeautiful rock reliefs.

WITH ITS ORDERED DESIGN, wealth ofreligious treasures, and stunning

location, Samye makes a deep impres-sion on visitors. Tibet’s first monastery,Samye was founded in the 8th centuryduring Trisong Detsen’s reign with theinput of the great Buddhist teacher,Guru Rinpoche. Indian and Chinesescholars, invited to Samye to translateBuddhist scriptures into Tibetan, argued

over the interpretation of doctrine, and so TrisongDetsen held a public debate to decide which form ofBuddhism should be followed in Tibet. The Indianschool won out and Chinese-religious influencegradually waned. Today the monastery has a well-worn and eclectic feel, having been influenced bynumerous sects over the years.

T I B E T5 4 0

STAR SIGHTS

. Jowo SakyamuniChapel

. Chenresig Chapel

Monks livein quarterson the upperlevel of theouter wall.

EXPLORING THE ÜTSEThe Ütse is dimly lit, so take a flashlight to explore. Theentrance leads directly intothe Main Hall, with theChenrisig Chapel to the leftand the Gongkhan Chapel tothe right. The Jowo SakyamuniChapel is at the far end of theMain Hall. Numerous chapelsand the Dalai Lama’s quartersare located on the secondstory. The third story has an open gallery lined withimpressive murals.

. Chenresig ChapelThis chapel centers ona stunning statue ofChenresig, with an eyepainstakingly paintedon each of itsthousand hands.

The outer wall facing the Ütse is lined with prayer wheels and elaborate murals of Buddha.

View of Samye MonasteryA superb view of the monastery can be had from thesurrounding hills. From here it is easy to see that themonastery is laid out as a 3-D mandala (see p536).

. Jowo Sakyamuni Chapel Samye’s most revered chapelcenters on an image ofSakyamuni at age 38. He is flanked by two protectordeities and tenBodhisattvas.

Tantric protectorin Gongkhan

Samye Monastery 2

Flags hung on the hills around Ganden Monastery to infuse the wind with prayers

5 4 1T I B E T

VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

93 miles (150 km) SE of Lhasa.c from Lhasa or Tsetang to ferryon Tsangpo, then truck. & ^unless fee paid. _ Samye Festival,15th day of fifth lunar month.

GongkhanChapel ispacked withdraped statues offierce demons. A stuffed snakeguards the exit.

Guru RinpocheAn 8th-century monk-king from Swat in

modern-day Pakistan, heis said to have subduedevil demons and establ-

ished Buddhism in Tibet.Images of him carrying a

thunderbolt are foundthroughout the complex.

Main entrancePLAN OF SAMYE COMPLEXPeharKordzoling,protectorchapel

Entranceto Utse

Whitechorten

Aryapalo Ling

Jampa Ling

Quarters of the Dalai LamaThis simple apartment, consisting of

anteroom, bedroom and throne room, is full of relics, including Guru

Rinpoche’s hair and walking stick.

Main entrance

The mural to the left of the entrance on thethird story depicts the

5th Dalai Lama receivingthe Mongol Khan Gushri

and his retinue.

The inscription on this stonestele (779 AD) declares that KingTrisong Detsen has proclaimedBuddhism as the state religion.

The main hall houses images and statues of Guru Rinpoche and the Buddhist kings,Trisong Detsen and Songtsen Gampo.

Samye’s design echoes TibetanBuddhism’s cosmology of the universe.Many of the 108 buildings have beendestroyed, but the four ling chapelsrepresenting the island continents thatsurround Mount Sumeru (the Ütse) arestill intact. Jampa Ling holds an impres-sive mural of the complex as it oncewas. The circular monastery wall istopped with 1,008 chortens that repre-sent Chakravla, the ring of 1,008 moun-tains that surrounds the universe.

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THE EIGHT AUSPICIOUS SYMBOLS

The Eight Auspicious Symbols represent theofferings that were presented to SakyamuniBuddha, after he attained Enlightenment.Born as Siddhartha Gautama, prince of thekingdom of Kapilavastu, he renounced hisprincely life at the age of 30, and went insearch of answers to the meaning of humansuffering and existence. After years ofpenance, Siddhartha attained Enlightenment after meditating under aBodhi tree in Bodh Gaya, India. Tibetansregard the symbols as protective motifsand use them to decorate flags andmedallions as well as tiles in Buddhisttemples, monasteries, and homes. TheConch Shell is blown to celebrateSakyamuni’s Enlightenment; the EndlessKnot represents harmony, and the never-ending passage of time; and the Wheel ofLaw symbolizes the Buddha’s eightfoldpath to Enlightenment. Other symbolsinclude the Golden Fish, representingliberation from the Wheel of Life, and the Lotus Flower that represents purity.

T I B E T5 4 2

TsurphuMonastery 3

Tolung Valley. 45 miles (70 km) W ofLhasa. c daily from Barkhor Squarein Lhasa. Last bus back to Lhasa, 3pm.ª 4WD rented from Lhasa, 2–3 hrs.# 9am–2pm daily. &

SITUATED AT AN altitude of14,700 ft (4,480 m), this

monastery was founded in the12th century by the Karmapaor Black Hats order and isimportant as the home of theKarmapa Lama, the third mostimportant religious leader inTibet after the Dalai andPanchen Lamas (see p544).The present incumbent, the17th Karmapa, fled to India in1999 at the age of 14. Hisdeparture was significant ashe was the only senior TibetanBuddhist official recognized

by both the Chinese authoritiesand the Dalai Lama. The floodof daily pilgrims who camefor blessings has now stoppedand the monastery is ratherquiet, though several hundredmonks still reside here.

The Karmapa’s throne, anobject of great veneration, is inthe audience chamber of themain hall. Here, a chorten(stupa or funerary mound)contains the relics of the 16thKarmapa, who died in Chicagoin 1981. The kora from behindthe monastery takes threehours, and provides magnifi-cent views but beware –visitors must be acclimatized.

One of the many brightly-coloredmurals at Tsurphu Monastery

Nomad tents, at the edge of the breathtaking Namtso Lake

Namtso Lake 4

125 miles (200 km) NW of Lhasa. ª 4WD rented from Lhasa, 2–3 dayround-trip. # daily. &

BEAUTIFUL NAMTSO Lake, withits classic Tibetan scenery

of azure water beneath snow-capped peaks and grasslandsdotted with herds of yak, hasmade it the most popular overnight jeep trip fromLhasa. About 45 miles (70 km)long and 19 miles (30 km)wide, it is the second largestsaltwater lake in China after

Wheel of Law

Endless Knot

Conch Shell

5 4 3T I B E T

Gyantse 5

158 miles (255 km) SW of Lhasa.Minibus: alternate days from Lhasabus station. ª 4WD from Lhasa.Travel Permits required (see p519).

AN ATTRACTIVE, if dusty, smalltown, Gyantse is Tibet’s

third largest settlement, famousfor its carpets, and usuallyvisited en route to Nepal (seep547). Often called “HeroicCity,” it was originally capitalof a 14th-century kingdom,and the remnants of its oldDzong, or fort watches overthe town. Heavily bombardedduring the British invasion in1904, when it was captured at great loss of life to theTibetans, it is today a dramaticruin with a small museum.Here, Chinese propagandadescribes the “heroic battlefought to defend the Chinesemotherland,” although at thattime China had no authorityover Tibet. The Dzong offersgood views from its roof. Kumbum, Gyantse, a three-dimensional mandala

About 650 ft (200 m) north-west is a compound housingthe Kumbum and PelkorChode Monastery.

The Kumbum, constructedaround 1440, is a magnificentsix-story and 115-ft (35-m)high chorten, honeycombedwith little chapels. It is built inan architectural style unique toTibet and this is the finestextant example. A clockwiseroute leads up past chapelsfull of statuary and decoratedwith 14th-century murals –kumbum means “a hundredthousand images.” On thefourth floor, painted pairs ofeyes, signifying the all-seeingeyes of Buddha, look out ineach of the cardinal direc-tions. The staircase in theeastern chapel leads into thechorten’s dome. There aredramatic views from the top.

Built 20 years after Kumbum,the Pelkor Chode Monasterywas designed for all the localBuddhist sects to use; its murkyAssembly Hall has two thrones,one for the Dalai Lama andone for the Sakya Lama. Themain chapel at the back of thehall has a statue of Sakyamuni,the Historical Buddha, andsome impressive wooden roofdecorations. At the very top,the Shalyekhang Chapel hassome fine mandalas (see p536).

On the way to Gyantse it isworth taking a detour to seebeautiful Yamdrok Lake, oneof the four holy Tibetan lakes

+ Dzong# Mon–Sat. & t Kumbum & PelkorChode Monastery# 9am–7pm Mon–Sat (closednoon–3pm). & 6 for a fee.

THE BRITISH INVASION OF TIBET

Alarmed by the growing influence of Tsarist Russia in the19th century, Britain’s viceroy in India sent a diplomaticmission to Tibet in an effort to build links and facilitate the free flow of trade. When the mission failed, an expeditionary force – part of the Great Game (see p491) –of 1,000 soldiers and 10,000 porters, led bythe dashing 26-year-old Colonel FrancisYounghusband, invaded Tibet in 1903.As the force traveled inward, they killedalmost 700 peasants, who were armedin part with magic charms to ward offbullets. Then, in the world’s highestbattle, the British captured Gyantse Fortwith only four casualties, while theTibetans lost hundreds of men. The forceproceeded to Lhasa, where an agreementallowed Britain to set up trade missions.

FrancisYounghusband

Qinghai Hu (see p499). Theflat land around it offers goodgrazing, and is ususally ringedwith nomad encampments insummer. From November toMay, the lake freezes over.Most people stay a night atTashi Dor, a monastery on alakeside hill. Bring a flashlightand a warm sleeping bag.The lake is situated at theincredible height of 15,500 ft(4,718 m), so visitors must bethoroughly acclimatized.

Highly decorated doorway to themain chapel, Kumbum, Gyantse

T I B E T5 4 4

CAPITAL OF THE TSANG REGION, Shigatse sits at an elevation of 12,800 ft (3,900 m).

To its north, the Drolma Ridge rises steeply,topped by the ruins of the ancient Dzong,

once home to the kings of Tsang. Shigatseholds a powerful position in Tibet, andwas the capital for a spell during the early17th century. After Lhasa regained its sta-

tus, Shigatse continued to hold sway as the home of thePanchen Lama, Tibet’s second most important religiousruler, whose seat is located at Tashilunpo Monastery, thetown’s grandest sight. Worth exploring for a day or two,Shigatse is the most comfortable place in Tibet afterLhasa, with decent food and accommodations on offer.

( Gang Gyen CarpetFactoryQomolangma Lu. # 9am–12:30pm& 2:30–7pm Mon–Fri.This factory, where localwomen produce beautifulcarpets, first skeining the woolthan weaving it, is the placeto come if you are in the

market for a Tibetancarpet. The processis sufficiently inter-esting to warrant avisit even if youhave no intention of buying. A projectinitiated by the 10thPanchen Lama in1987, the business ispart-owned by themonastery. Conven-iently, shipping canbe arranged on thepremises.

( Night MarketA small cluster of street foodstalls can be found at thecorner of Qomolangma Luand Jiefang Zhong Lu. Chairsand tables, and even the oddsofa, line the sidewalks nextto the stalls. Enjoy a largebowl or noodles or a kabob.

P DzongThe leaders of Tsang onceruled from the mighty fortressof Shigatse Dzong, in thenorth of town, built in the14th century by KarmaPhuntso Namgyel, a powerfulTsang king. It once resembleda small Potala but was de-stroyed by the Chinese in1959 during the Tibetanuprising, and little remainstoday except the stumps of afew burned walls. Neverthelessit is a good spot to take in theview over the town. A kora orholy route, marked by prayerflags and mani stones, leadshere from the west side ofTashilunpo. Keep your distancefrom the packs of stray dogs.

( Tibetan MarketAt the Dzong’s southern baseon Tomzigang Lu stands asmall Tibetan market sellingsouvenirs, such as prayerwheels and incense, and a fewTibetan necessities – medicine,legs of lamb, and large knives.Just to the west of the marketis an old traditionally Tibetanneighborhood of narrow lanesand tall whitewashed walls.

t Tashilunpo Monastery# Summer: 9am–12:30pm & 4–6pmMon–Sat; Winter: 10am–noon &3–6pm Mon–Sat. &A huge monastic compoundof golden-roofed venerablebuildings and cobbled lanes,Tashilunpo would takeseveral days to explore fully.It was founded in 1447 byGenden Drup, retrospectivelytitled the 1st Dalai Lama. Itgrew suddenly important in

Stall selling religious regalia at the Tibetan Market

THE 11TH PANCHEN LAMA

The death of the 10th Panchen Lama in 1989 brought Tibet’sleaders and the Chinese government into conflict over succes-sion. Like the seat of the Dalai Lama, the Panchen Lama’s po-sition is passed on through reincarnation. Traditionally, uponthe death of either of these leaders, top monks scour the landhoping to identify the new incarnate. In 1995, after an exten-

sive search, the Dalai Lama named a six-year-old boy, Gedhun Choeki Nyima, as the 11thPanchen Lama. The chosen boy and his familysoon disappeared and have not been seen

since. Keen to handpick the next DalaiLama’s teacher, the Chinese authoritiessanctioned a clandestine ceremonywhich ordained Gyancain Norbu as the “official Panchen Lama” andimmediately whisked him off to Beijing.

Young Gyancain Norbu, the China-sanctioned 11th Panchen Lama

Shigatse & Tashilunpo 6

Striped clothwoven on loom

A group of carpet makers tying richly coloredwool into intricate knots

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172 miles (278 km) W of Lhasa.* 60,000. c Shigatse BusStation, Minibus Stand._ Tashilunpo Festival: 2ndweek of 5th lunar month.

1642, when the 5th DalaiLama declared his teacher, themonastery’s abbot, to be areincarnation of theAmithaba Buddha and the fourthreincarnation of thePanchen Lama, orgreat teacher. Eversince it has been theseat of the PanchenLamas, who aresecond in authorityto the Dalai Lama.

Head up the mainpath to the back of thecompound for the mostimpressive sights. The gold andsilver chorten straight ahead

holds the remains of the 4thPanchen Lama. Built in 1662, itwas the only funeral chortenin the monastery to escape

destruction during theCultural Revolution.The larger, jewelstudded chorten justto the west holds theremains of the 10th

Panchen Lama, whodied in 1989; it wasconstructed in 1994at a cost of eightmillion US dollars.

Continue west for the Chapelof Jampa, which holds themonastery’s most impressiveartifact, an 85-ft (26-m)

golden image of Jampa, thefuture Buddha, made in 1914.It took almost a thousand arti-sans four years to completeusing more than 600 pounds(275 kg) of gold.

The complex of buildingson the east side is the Kelsang.It centers around a courtyardwhere monks can be observedpraying, debating, and relaxing.The 15th-century AssemblyHall on the west side holdsthe imposing throne of thePanchen Lamas.

Those with energy left canfollow the monastery kora,which takes about an hour. Itruns clockwise around theoutside of the walls beforeheading up to the Dzong. Onthe way you’ll pass colorfulrock reliefs, some of GuruRinpoche, and the huge whitewall where a thangka ofBuddha is exposed to the sunduring the joyous three-daylong Tashilunpo Festival.

Majestic Tashilunpo Monastery with Drolma Ridge rising behind

The Wheel of Law, an auspicious symbol

SHIGATSE CITY CENTER

Dzong 3Gang Gyen Carpet

Factory 1Night Market 2Tashilunpo Monastery 5Tibetan Market 4

KEY

c Long distance bus station

n Tourist information

N Post office

T I B E T5 4 6

home of one of the two headlamas, who now livesoverseas. Apart from thestatue-filled chapel, its roomsare mainly empty. Movingclockwise, the next chapel,the Purkhang, holds imagesof Jowo Sakyamuni andJampalyang among others,while wall murals depicttantric deities. The MainAssembly Hall has 40 hugewooden pillars, one of whichwas said to have been giftedby Kublai Khan, whileanother is said to have comefrom India on the back of atiger. The elaborately deco-rated hall has rich brocades,statues, and butter lamps andholds thousands of religioustexts (sutras). The fine centralBuddha image enshrines theremains of Phagpa. Thechapel to the north has 11silver chortens containing theremains of previous Sakya

Detail from wall painting at SakyaMonastery

Sakya Monastery 7

311 miles (500 km) SW of Lhasa. c bus or minibus from Lhasa toShigatse (7 hrs); every 2 days fromShigatse. ª 4WD rented from Lhasa.# 9am–6:30pm Mon–Sat. & 6fee. Travel Permit required (see p519).

THE TOWN OF Sakya isdominated by the huge,

fortress-like monastery, thatlooms up from the grayplains. Sakya or “Gray Soil” inTibetan, was the capital of allTibet in the 13th century,when monks of the Sakyapaorder formed an extraordinaryalliance with the Mongols. In1247, the head of the Sakyapaorder, Sakya Pandita, traveledto Mongolia and made a pact,whereby the Mongols werethe overlords, while the Sakyamonks ruled as their regents –the first time a lama was alsohead of state. His nephew,Phagpa, later became thespiritual guide to theconqueror of China, KublaiKhan. In 1354, Mongol powerwaned, and infighting amongthe religious sects led to adecline in Sakya’s influence.

Originally, there were twomonasteries on either side ofthe Trum River, but the northern one was destroyedduring the Cultural Revolution(see pp64–5). The mid-13thcentury Southern Monastery,built by Phagpa, is a typicalMongol structure, with thickwalls and watchtowers. Theentrance leads to a courtyardwith an enormous prayer polein the center. To the left is thePuntsok Palace, the traditional

Everest Base Camp 8

Rongphu 336 miles (540 km) SW ofLhasa. c from Lhasa to Shigatse (7hrs), then rent 4WD (more difficult tohire here than in Lhasa). ª 4WD fromLhasa, 2 days; 4WD from CITS officenear Shigatse Hotel or Tashi 1 restau-rant in Shigatse. & for Everest area.Travel Permits required (see p519).

DESPITE THE spine-jarring,four-hour trip off the

Friendship Highway – thatconnects Lhasa to the Nepalborder at Zhangmu – thecraggy lunar landscape enroute to Everest is enchanting.Rongphu is a good place for astop and at 16,500 ft (4,980 m)is the highest monastery inthe world. Although it hassome good murals, the interior is not as riveting as itsstunning location in front ofEverest’s forbidding northface in the Rongphu Valley.The monastery was foundedin 1902 on a site that hadbeen used by nuns as ameditation retreat for centuries, and is now hometo some 30 monks.

Everest Base Camp lies 5 miles (8 km) to the south.The trip across the glacialplain takes about 15 minutesby vehicle or two hours onfoot. It is just a jumble oftents, with a makeshift tea-house and the world’s highestpost box, but the views ofMount Everest, the world’shighest mountain at a staggering 29,029 ft (8,848 m),are absolutely unforgettable.

The entire Rongphu andEverest area has been designated a nature reservethat covers 13,100 sq miles(34,000 sq km), and bordersthree national parks in Nepal.A spectacular viewpoint at thePangla Pass en route toRongphu has a chart thathelps identify peaks overHouses at Sakya Village, painted gray with red and white stripes

lamas. Sakya houses aretraditionally painted gray withred and white vertical stripes;the colors are supposed tosymbolize the BodhisattvasChanna Dorje, Jampalyang,and Chenresig respectively.

5 4 7T I B E T

THE FRIENDSHIP HIGHWAY

The 435-mile (700-km) route between Lhasa and the Nepalborder, known as the Friendship Highway, is probably themost popular journey for visitors to Tibet and includessome important sightseeing detours along the way. Manyagencies in Lhasa and in Kathmandu in Nepal can arrangethe trip, sort out the necessary permits, and provide an appropriate four-wheel drive vehicle, a driver, and guide.Depending on the itinerary, which usually includes thetowns of Shigatse and Gyantse, the trip can take up to aweek. Visitors must ensure that the contract specifiesexactly what they want and what they are paying for.

26,000 ft (8,000 m) high – ChoOyu, Lhotse, Makalu, and ofcourse, Everest, known asChomolungma in Tibetan.

The rarefied air at thisaltitude (17,000 ft/5,150 m)makes any strenuous activityimpossible. Unless visitors areproperly acclimatized, it isbest to go all the way back tothe Friendship Highway andcarry on to the town ofShekhar to spend the night.

Everest Base Camp, with magnificent views of the world’s highest mountain

The Nepal Border 9

Zhangmu Nepal border. 435 miles(700 km) SW of Lhasa. c privateminibus from Lhasa’s Barkhor area toZhangmu, 2 days. ª 4WD rentedfrom Lhasa, 2 days (direct), or 5–6days (via Gyantse, Shigatse & EverestBase Camp). Travel Permit for allplaces (between Shigatze and border)required (see p519).

THE FRIENDSHIP Highwayconnecting Lhasa to the

Nepal border is one of Tibet’smost popular link routes.From the Rongphu turn-offalong the highway, it isanother 31 miles (50 km)west to Tingri, on what is asurprisingly good road. This isa small, traditional Tibetantown with good views of theEverest range. After climbingfor 56 miles (90 km) the road

begins a steep, windingdescent through mountainsthat are densely wooded; thechange of scenery is startlingafter the desert landscape ofthe high, arid plateau. It isonly another 20 miles (33 km)to the border town ofZhangmu, which is relativelylow and oxygen-rich at 7,600 ft(2,300 m). Although much ofZhangmu consists of slightlydilapidated shacks, perched

Friendship Highway, winding across the plateau to Nepal

above one another on themountainside, this frontiertown has a gaudy vibrance.Border formalities to get intoNepal are fairly cursory. TheNepalese immigration post, 6 miles (10 km) farther downat Kodari, will issue a single-entry visa, though visitorshave to pay in US dollars andprovide a passport photo.From here, it is a four-hourtrip to Kathmandu.