21

Quick FactsLANGUAGES

Dzongkha, Hindi, Nepali, Bengali, English

TIME

30 mins ahead of IST.

CURRENCY

Ngultrum (Nu). The Indian rupee (up to Rs100 notes) is legal tender in Bhutan. Nu 1 = Re 1. Some top-end hotels accept US$.

MOBILE PHONES

As long as your phone is unlocked you can buy a local SIM card for both domestic and international use and top it up with prepaid cards.

INTERNET ACCESS

Wi-fi is available in select hotels and restaurants. Internet cafes are located in shopping areas of towns.

TOURIST INFORMATION

Tourism Council of Bhutan (TCB) (%02 323251; www.tourism.gov.bt; Chhogyel Lam, Thimphu)

Need to Know

When To Go• High Season (March–April, September–November): The weather is best in spring and autumn. Book flights and accommodation well in advance. Himalayan views are best in October, while rhododendron blooms peak in March and April.

• Mid Season (May, December–February): The main benefit of travelling outside high season will be fewer tourists. The weather is still good, though it can be severely cold in December and January.

• Low Season (June–August): Avoid the monsoons especially if you want to go trekking.

For detailed information, see Travellers' Helpdesk on p172

The Himalayan valley of Drukgyel Dzong

First Time in Bhutan• Passport: Bring your passport, or atleast a voter’s ID, as official identification is necessary for procuring further travel permits within Bhutan. Also bring at least five passport photos for the paperwork.

• Visa: Indian travellers don’t require a visa to enter Bhutan. (For further details check Traveller’s helpdesk p174).

HEALTH & SAFETY• Medical services in Bhutan get basic the further you venture away from Thimphu or the main urban centres. It always helps to carry your own first-aid kit and medicines, especially prescription drugs. Consult your doctor for what to carry for emergencies.

• Possession and use of drugs is illegal in Bhutan. Smoking in public places is prohibited, though a lot of people seem to boldly flout the rule.

• Bhutan is very safe for travellers, and serious criminal activities within the country are rarely heard of. Women tourists face little risk travelling alone, and the towns and villages are usually safe even after sundown (although there’s little to do or see after dusk). However, it always helps to take care of your personal belongings, and keep your wits about you.

ADVANCE PLANNING• Plan the purchase of your airline tickets in advance. Druk Air generally has fixed fares for its Delhi/Kolkata flights.

• Plan your itinerary and budget.

• Book accommodation before landing, if you are travelling by yourself.

• Book early-on with tour operators, minimum a month ahead, and discuss services such as accommodation, food, transport and guide services in advance.

• Tour operators charge all-inclusive tariffs, with no choice of accommodation, food, transport and guide services offered to travellers.

WHAT TO PACK• Light and loose wash-and-wear clothes.

• Waterproof holder for passport and money.

• A compact umbrella and/or good raincoat.

Dos and Don’tsDo check for discounts

for students under age 25 with tour operators and take your ID card along for proof.

Do enquire if Indians can pay local rates at restaurants or shops.

Do make an effort to be polite with locals while making enquiries.

Do book with your tour operator well in advance before landing in Bhutan.

Do not litter while trekking in the mountains.

Do not smoke in public areas.

Do not wear shoes to temples and be respectful while visiting sacred sites.

Do not leave for Bhutan without good maps as they are difficult to find.

The Bhutanese do not encourage haggling. Limit bargaining at small handicraft shops.

Do not drink tap water.

FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

The different regions of Bhutan provide distinct experiences in themselves.We have pulled out the top highlights for you to explore.

#_#_

43

Bhutan at a Glance

THIMPHU P100 Monasteries, temples, markets and modern cafes make this a lively and scenic tourist spot.

WESTERN BHUTAN P56 The nation's important region boasts of majestic dzongs, popular treks, the airport and other facilities.

CENTRAL BHUTAN P128 The cultural heartland showcases fertile valleys, pristine mountains and monasteries, and hosts cultural festivities.

EASTERN BHUTAN P146 This rugged region's monasteries and picturesque valleys retain their isolated splendour.

TrashigangMongar

JakarPunakha

WangduePhodrang

ParoHaa

Trongsa

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

65

Curious observers at Trashi Chhoe Dzong in Thimphu

Top 5 Highlights• Trashi Chhoe Dzong (p103)Animposingstructuresetamidaserenelandscape.

• National Institute for Zorig Chusum (p107)ShowcasingthebestofBhutan’sartsandcrafts.

• National Memorial Chorten (p106)Joinlocalsintheirdailycircumambulations.

• Changangkha Lhakhang (p105)Bhutan’sliveliesttemple.

• Weekend Market (p111)Fromincensetoamulets,there’ssomethinghereforeveryone.

Thimphu

Why Go?Thimphuhasayouthfulexuberancethatconstantlychallengesthecountry’snaturalconservatism.Crimson-robedmonks,governmentministerscladinghosandkirasandcamera-wieldingtouristsallsharethesamepavements,andnobody,itseems,isinahurry.Itsbalancebetweentheoldandthenewisevidentinitsofferingofespressobars,Thairestaurants,protectorshrinesandhillsidehermitageretreats,allonthesameplatter.Takeyourpick!

Getting There & AwayCar:Self-drivingfromPhuentsholingisascenicandeminentlyenjoyableoption.The172kmroutecanbecoveredinaboutfivehours.Seep31fortipsondrivingintoBhutanoverlandfromIndia.SharedtaxiscanalsobehiredfromPhuentsholingforaboutNu500perseat.Ifyou’reflyingintoParo,aThimphu-boundtaxiwillcostaboutNu800.

Bus:ThereareovertwodozendailybusestoPhuentsholing(Nu81toNu111;CoasterNu192).

FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER

87

GETTING AROUND THE REGION

•Walking:MostshopsandpointsofinterestarewithineasywalkingdistanceofThimphu’smajorhotelssoit’seasytogosightseeing,popoutforadrinkorembarkonaroundofshoppingonfoot.

•Taxi:MostofThimphu’staxisareMarutivanswithmetersthatdriversrarelyuse.Taxidrivershaveahabitofchargingtouristsasmuchastheycan–oneofBhutan’sfewrip-offs.AshortridearoundtowncostsaroundNu50to60oryoucanhireataxifortheday–especiallyifyou’retouringGreaterThimphu–foraboutNu500.

Thimphu Thimphu is the world's only capital without traffic lights – something which tells you a lot about this quaint and easy-going city. Established as the capital of Bhutan in 1961, it’s relaxed, friendly and informal, and is most rewarding if you can be the same. While there are sights aplenty to keep you busy through the day, keep some time in hand to float about this picture-perfect city, taking in a plethora of sights, sounds and smells – and generally doing your own thing. The colourful and dramatic Thimphu tsechu makes September the peak tourist season in town. If you’re visiting at other times, Saturday is a good day to be here, hen archery tournaments are held, opening hours at the dzong are extended, the weekend market is in full swing and nightlife is at its liveliest.

Thimphu 2 days

Greater Thimphu 1 day

Thimphu Centre

With the exception of some sights, most of Thimphu’s attractions are casually strewn about the greater extents of the city. It makes sense to start with the extremities and then spiral into the centre of town. The northern fringes of Thimphu boast the grand Trashi Chhoe Dzong, your starting point on the first day. The National Memorial Chorten, located in Thimphu’s southern quarters, promises good photo-ops during sunset, and is a good place to round off the day. Schedule the second day for sights closer to the town centre.

Greater Thimphu 2 Days

HighlightsDay 11 Trashi Chhoe Dzong 2 Dechen Phodrang3 Zilukha Nunnery4 Changangkha Lhakang5 National Memorial Chorten

Day 26 National Institute for Zorig

Chusum7 Folk Heritage Museum 8 National Library9 National Institute for

Traditional Medicine a Textile Museum

DAY 11 TRASHI CHHOE DZONGThe splendid Trashi Chhoe Dzong, north of the city on the west bank of the Wang Chhu, was the site of the lavish coronation of the fifth king in 2008 and hosts the city’s biggest annual bash, the colourful tsechu festivities. It once housed the National Assembly and now houses the secretariat and the throne room and offices of the king.

FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

Sample chapter © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher.

FOR THE INDIAN TRAVELLER 109

Namgay Heritage Hotel Hotel $$$%02 337113; www.nhh.bt; s/d Nu3200/3700, deluxe Nu5000/5500 At the top end of the

mid-range class is this excellent new

place, a short walk from the centre.

Rooms are comfortable with good

beds and stylish Buddhist motifs,

though some rooms suffer from

slow drains. Pluses include a good

Bhutanese restaurant and free sauna,

steam room and gym.

Hotel Kisa Hotel $$$%02 336495; www.hotelkisa.com; Chang Lam; r Nu3500–5000; The

Kisa has quickly become one of best-

regarded hotels in town. It’s central

and stylish, with 35 very comfortable

rooms and one of the best hotel

restaurants in town.

Hotel Migmar Hotel $$%02 338901; www.hotelmigmar.bt; Thimphu Expressway, Olakha; s/d Nu2850/3500, deluxe Nu3500/4000 Opened in 2010,

the Migmar is also at the top end

of the mid-range class, featuring

27 spacious luxurious rooms with

excellent facilities like hair dryer and

safe. The location out of town in the

southern suburbs is quiet, as long as

you request a room away from the

expressway. The swimming pool is a

bit of a white elephant.

Taj Tashi Luxury Hotel $$$

%02 336699; www.tajhotels.com; Samten Lam; r/ste from US$385/575 The striking dzong-like

architecture is a great introduction

to the understated but stylish luxury

inside. The cool modern bar and

outdoor terrace are both great places

for a sophisticated drink. The five

deluxe rooms with balcony (US$415)

are a good choice and come with a

sun deck and day bed, though the

balconies could do with more privacy.

Corner rooms are also popular for the

fine views. Sporty types will enjoy the

top-end gym and indoor pool; couples

will like the aromatherapy, followed

by a rose petal bath and a bottle of

champagne.

Bhutan Hotel, Suites Apartments $$%02 333377; www.bhutansuites.com; Changangkha; s/d Nu2900/3500 Business travellers

and tourists alike are sure to appreciate

the separate sitting room, underfloor

heating and mini-kitchens here, plus

the sweeping private balcony views

over Thimphu. The location is more

convenient for visiting government

ministries than having dinner in town,

but you can order room service from

the good vegetarian restaurant. A

steam bath and sauna is planned.

Wangchuk Hotel Hotel $$%02 323532; www.wangchukhotel.com; Chang Lam; s/d incl breakfast

A familiar thali at an Indian restaurant

Mid Point Restaurant Indian, Bhutanese $%02 321269; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu55–100; lunch & dinner Mon–Sat This simple spot is a favourite of

many locals for its generous dishes,

particularly dosas and other South

Indian offerings at very reasonable

prices. The fish curry is excellent, as is

the hogey (cabbage, carrot and chilli)

salad. The outdoor seats are one of the

few places in town for al fresco dining.

Rice Bowl Chinese $%02 333844; Centre Mall, Norzin Lam; mains Nu80–100; lunch & dinner Mon–Sat Excellent chilli pork,

Sichuan chicken and crispy shredded

lamb are made to be shared, though the

5 EatingThimphu is the one place in Bhutan where you can track down some authentic local tastes as well as a range of Indian, vegetarian and Chinese flavours.

Indian RestaurantsCHULA INDIAN $$%02 336275; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu80–180; Mon–Sat Chula gets

our vote as the best Indian food

in town. The karhai chicken, tikka

masala, and fresh paneer tikka are

all great, as are the good-value set

lunch thalis (Nu180). The restaurant

is set to move to the Druk Punjab

Bank plaza sometime in the future.

HOTEL JUMOLHARI INDIAN $$%02 322747; www.hoteljumolhari.com; Wogzin Lam; mains Nu50–150; breakfast, lunch & dinner This delightful restaurant in one of

Thimphu’s most appealing hotels is

notable for its delicious tandooris,

curries, delicate naans, cold beer

and relaxed atmosphere.

CYPRESS HOTEL INDIAN $$%02 334453; FCB Bldg, Norzin Lam; set veg/non veg meals Nu120/180 An unpretentious but

charming family-run place serving

delicious Indian and Nepali food (the

shahi paneer is recommended),

with a popular Friday night thali

(set meal) of eight dishes.

TERDZOR HOTEL INDIAN $Norzin Lam; mains Nu40–120 Excellent Nepali (Friday) and Punjabi

(Saturday) vegetarian buffets.