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Build A One Transistor FM Radio

Click on a picture to choose which design to build!

 Build this one transistor FM 

radio

(my design)

Enlarge: [medium]  [large]

 

or Build this onetransistor FM radio

(Designed by Patrick 

Cambre )

Enlarge: [large] 

My Design

A printed circuit board for this circuit is available through FAR Circuits. Ask them for "Andy Mitz's One transistor FM radio printed circuit board".

Introduction

AM radio circuits and kits abound. Some work quite well. But, look around and you will

find virtually no FM radio kits. Certainly, there are no simple FM radio kits. The simple

FM radio circuit got lost during the transition from vacuum tubes to transistors. In thelate 1950s and early 1960s there were several construction articles on building a simple

superregenerative FM radio. After exhaustive research into the early articles and some

key assistance from a modern day guru in regenerative circuit design, I have developed

this simple radio kit. It is a remarkable circuit. It is sensitive, selective, and has enough

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audio drive for an earphone. Read more about theory behind this radio on the low-tech

FM page.

Construction

parts source

Except the the circuit board and battery, all parts are from Mouser Electronics. Acomplete parts list with stock numbers is listed below. The circuit board is available

through FAR Circuits. The variable capacitor is available through Electronix Express.

layout

Because this is a superregenerative design, component layout can be very important. The

tuning capacitor, C3, has three leads. Only the outer two leads are used; the middle leadof C3 is not connected. Arrange L1 fairly close to C3, but keep it away from where your 

hand will be. If your hand is too close to L1 while you tune the radio, it will make tuningvery difficult.

winding L1

L1 sets the frequency of the radio, acts as the antenna, and is the primary adjustment for 

super-regeneration. Although it has many important jobs, it is easy to construct. Get any

cylindrical object that is just under 1/2 inch (13 mm) in diameter. I used a thick pencilfrom my son's grade school class, but a magic marker or large drill bit work just fine.

#20 bare solid wire works the best, but any wire that holds its shape will do. Wind 6

turns tightly, side-by-side, on the cylinder, then slip the wire off. Spread the windings

apart from each other so the whole coil is just under an inch (2.5 cm) long. Find themidpoint and solder a small wire for C2 there. Mount the ends of the wire on your circuit

 board keeping some clearance between the coil and the circuit board.

a tuning knob for C3

C3 does not come with a knob and I have not found a source. A knob is important tokeep your hand away from the capacitor and coil when you tune in stations. The solution

is to use a #4 nylon screw. Twist the nylon screw into the threads of the C3 tuning

handle. The #4 screw is the wrong thread pitch and will jam (bind) in the threads. This iswhat you want to happen. Tighten the screw just enough so it stays put as you tune the

capacitor. The resulting arrangement works quite well.

Adjustment

If the radio is wired correctly, there are three possible things you can hear when you turn

it on: 1) a radio station, 2) a rushing noise, 3) a squeal, and 4) nothing. If you got a radio

station, you are in good shape. Use another FM radio to see where you are on the FM

 band. You can change the tuning range of C3 by squeezing L1 or change C1. If you hear 

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a rushing noise, you will probably be able to tune in a station. Try the tuning control and

see what you get. If you hear a squeal or hear nothing, then the circuit is oscillating too

little or too much. Try spreading or compressing L1. Double check your connections. If you don't make any progress, then you need to change R4. Replace R4 with a 20K or 

larger potentiometer (up to 50K). A trimmer potentiometer is best. Adjust R4 until you

can reliably tune in stations. Once the circuit is working, you can remove the potentiometer, measure its value, and replace it with a fixed resistor. Some people might

want to build the set from the start with a trimmer potentiometer in place (e.g., Mouser 

569-72PM-25K).

Substituting other components

Many of the parts are fairly common and might already be in your junk box. Only certaincomponent values are critical. The RF choke should be in the range of 20 to 30 uh,

although values from15 to 40 uh might work. The tuning capacitor value is not critical,

 but if you use values below 50 pf you should reduce or remove C1. The circuit is

designed for the high impedance type earphone. Normal earphones can be used, but the battery drain is much greater and the circuit must be changed. To use normal earphones,

change R3 to 180 ohms. Q1 can be replace with any high-frequency N-channel JFET

transistor, but only the 2N4416, 2N4416A, and J310 have been tested. A MPF102 probably will not work. C2 is not too critical; any value from 18 to 27 pf will work. C7 is

fairly critical. You can use a .005 or .0047 uf, but don't change it much more than that.

Schematic diagram

Click here for a nice PDF version of the schematic.

 

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Printed circuit board

The printed circuit board for the One Transistor FM Radio is available through:

FAR CIRCUITS 

Printed Circuit Boards

18N640 Field Court

Dundee, Illinois 60118

(847) 836-9148 Voice/Fax

email: farcir@ais.net

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Some wiring notes:

• Unless you have experience with super-regenerative radios, I highly recommend

using the FAR Circuits printed circuit board.• Connect the two sections of the variable capacitor (C3) in series to linearize the

tuning somewhat. That is, use the connections on either end of C3 and don't use

the middle lead.

• L2, the RF choke should not be near a ground. The same is true for L1.

Capacitance to ground will disturb the feedback.

The gain is just enough to drive an earphone. If you live too far away from radio

stations, you might have trouble hearing one. There is no option here for anexternal antenna (that would require and extra transistor).

•

You can drive a speaker if you add an external audio amplifier.

• If you want a little more audio gain, or you cannot locate a TL431CLP chip, you

can use some other audio amplifier in the circuit where pins 1 and 2 of D1

normally connect. You can use an LM386 or a TDA7052 audio amplifier. Quasar DIY project kit #3027 is a complete TDA7052 audio amplifier kit and it works

fine in this application.

Parts list

All parts except the RF tuning capacitor can be obtained from

Mouser Electronicswww.mouser.com sales@mouser.com

1-800-346-6873

The RF tuning capacitor can be obtained from

Electronix Expresselectron@elexp.com

1-800-972-2225

In New Jersey 1-732-381-8020

Part designator Part description Vendor stock number

C1a,C1b10 pf, 50 v, ceramic disc

capacitor 140-50N5-100J

C222 pf, 50 v, ceramic disc

capacitor 140-50N5-220J

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C3 RF tuning capacitor N14VCRF10-280P

C4330 pf, 50 v, ceramic disccapacitor 

140-50P2-331K 

C5,C80.001 uf, 50 v, ceramic disc

capacitor 

140-50P2-102K 

C6 0.22 uf, 50 v, film capacitor 140-PF1H224K  

C70.0047 uf, 50 v, ceramic disc

capacitor 140-50P5-472K 

C922 uf, 16 v, electrolyticcapacitor 

140-XRL16V22

D1TL431AIZ voltage controlZener (shunt regulator)

511-TL431AIZ

EPH1 High impedance earphone 25CR060

L2 22 uh RF choke 542-70F225Q1 2N4416A JFET transistor 510-2N4416A

R1 470K, 1/4 w, resistor 291-470K  

R2, R3 1K, 1/4 w, resistor 291-1K  

R4 10K, 1/4 w, resistor 291-10K  

R5 1M, 1/4 w, resistor 291-1M

R6 100 ohm, 1/4 w, resistor 291-100

S1 Small SPST switch 10SP003

screws for C3

screws for mounting C3 (2

needed) 48SS03

nylon screw#4 nylon screw used for 

tuning C3561-T0440037

 battery

connector mini battery snap 12BC025

 Note: schematic shows slightly different capacitor values. Either will work.

 

Please feel free to send me questions and comments at arm@gnode.org

 

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Last updated 5 July 2002

Andrew R. Mitzarm@gnode.orgAll circuits, text, photographs, and other graphics are copyright (c) 1998-2003 LTJ Designs.