"T 626R7:opy 1

LIVERYMd ccc xcviii ^

T6z:^^

I'".' ', (',.

LIVERYli-'r^t-^^ I Z^

-<

1898

New York

Rogers Peer c^' Company

Outfitters

s"^

2nd COPY,1898. .

\\ to-^<^

COPYRIGHT MDCCCXCVUI

BY ROGERS TEET & CO

5574

/^J— i/yj ':X

The Table of Contents

PAGE

Coachman and Groom : Dress : Summer

AND Winter . . . . -13

Coachman and Groom : Undress: Sum-

mer AND Win lER . . . .21

Coachman and Groom : Wet Weather

AND Cold . . . . .29

Aprons ....... 33

Butler and Second-man : Morning Af-

ternoon AND Evening . -37

Hall-Boy and Page , . . -45

Terms 51

The List of Pictures

Frontispiece .

Coachman's Body Coat

Groom's Body Coat

Great Coat

Coat ok Whipcord

Jacket of Whipcord

Overcoat of Whipcord

Mackintosh

Aprons ....Butler and vSecond Man, Jacket

Apron

Butler's Dinner Coat .

Second Man's Dinner Coat

Hall Boy's Suit

Page's Suit

PAGE

2

12

14

16

20

22

24

28

32

36

38

40

44

46

A Prefatory Note

UNTIL the appearance of our little

book in the Spring of 1897, there

was no written authority on what

men servants should wear.

To make that book undeniably author-

itative, we printed nothing except what

both London and New York had tried

and approved. Nor did we attempt to

conform the book to our stock ; but, on

the contrary, we conformed our stock to

the book.

With some slight revisions, and in a

new dress, we again offer it, confident of

its welcome—in default of anything better.

Our stock comprises livery for both

in-door and out-door men—complete to

the smallest essential.

Yes, it's ready to wear; but, "while

we don't make to order, we do make to

fit." At the few good livery tailors' you

LIVERYwould only pay more without getting more

—often not as much.

No, you needn't live in New York

City to deal with us ; we fill orders from

anywhere.

And whatever you buy, you may re-

turn, whether for fact or fancy, and

get your money back ; may return it for

alterations or exchange, at our expense.

Put us to the test.

IFwe don't have it, we'll get it—will

gladly estimate for stock-farms, ho-

tels, clubs and others on application.

Underwear is not livery ; but we have

that, too, and everything else man or

boy wears—see our general catalogue,

sent on request.

Coachman and Groom: Dress:

Summer and Winter

Coachman and Groom : Dress

:

Summer and Winter

ACOACHMAN'S coat should be

somewhat longer than a groom's,

and should have, in addition, flap

pockets—rarely seen on a groom's coat.

It should have six buttons in front,

two at the waist behind, and two near

the bottom of the skirt—the middle but-

tons are omitted, so as not to wear the

box-seat ; and as a coachman is not sup-

posed to leave his seat, the omission is

not noticeable.

On the other hand, a groom's coat has

the full six buttons behind, but only five

in front—though six are not out of the

way.

These buttons should match the har-

ness metal trimmings, unless the family

be in mourning, when black becomes a

necessity.

A velvet collar is a matter of individual

taste ; but a valentian sham vest must

always be worn.

Don't let your men wear accordion-

13

LIVERYlike boots—the kind that fall down and

disappear; but instead, stiff-legged calf-

skin, with russet or white tops ; black, of

course, if in mourning—the black is pro-

duced by covering the boot-top with cloth.

The breeches are usually made from

white stockinet ; made so that the upper

button comes just below the knee-cap.

Trousers, when matching the coat, are

always permissible; preferable perhaps,

on a stormy morning, but not so smart

as top boots and breeches. The body-

coat, by the way, should be shorter when

worn with breeches than with trousers.

The scarf most worn is of white linen,

already tied (known as a plastron). It's

a scarf easily washed.

The scarf-pin should be "horsey" in

character ; the collar, the regulation

coachman collar.

The hat, under ordinary conditions,

must be silk ; but cockades should never

be worn unless the owner is a member of

the army, navy, or diplomatic corps

;

shoulder knots, fancy collars and cuffs,

are not in the best of form.

IV

LIVERYGloves are ordinarily tan ; but for

calling or park driving, they may be of

white buckskin.

A COACHMAN'S great-coat, when

worn with boots and breeches,

should come a trifle below the

tops of his boots ; the groom's to the

upper button of his breeches. Whenworn with trousers, the coats should be

somewhat longer.

As to buttons and flap pockets, what

applies to body-coats applies to great-coats

as well.

Don't allow your man to wear the body-

coat under a great-coat ; it's clumsy, and apt

to bind his arms. A heavy double-breasted,

collarless waistcoat solves the problem.

While the dummy box-coat is not highly

thought of, it is considered good form

with a lady's open carriage to carry

great -coats, carefully folded, hanging

from the back of the seat, collar down—the men sitting on the skirts.

Body-coats, blue, green, black, claret .... $22 oo

Trousers g oo

Body-coats, drab 25 00

17

LIVERYTrousers $io oo

White stockinet breeches 17 oo

Monogram or crest buttons, moulded, perdozen i o 00

Large die for buttons 25 00

Small die 1 5 00

Buttons made from die, large, per dozen. . 2 00

Small, per dozen i 00

Coachmen's collars (four shapes), 25c.

each, per dozen 2 75

Scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per dozen.. 5 50This is our patent—a Punjab scarf that does not soil in putting-

on, nor priclv the fingers.

Cuflfs, per dozen $2 75 and 4 50

Coachmen's flannel shirts 2 50 and 3 00

Gloves, craven tan, unlined i 50" Grip " 2 25

White buckskin , 175Silk hat 5 00

American calf, stiff-leg boot 9 00

Boot-tops, assorted colors 3 00

Black, cloth-covered 5 50

White ooze skin 6 00

Patent-leather carriage shoe , 5 00

Great-coats of English box-cloth, lined

with heavy plaid worsted, green, blue,

black, claret, drab 50 00

Cream 55 00

Great-coats of American box-cloth, lined

with heavy wool, green, blue, black ... 35 00

Dummy coats 1 8 00

Heavy-weight trousers 12 00

Heavy waistcoat, with sleeves 8 00

Bedford-cord trousers. 12 00

Coachman and Groom : Undress :

Summer and Winter

Coachman and Groom : Undress :

Summer and Winter

UNDRESS livery is only another

name for "whipcord," whether

made into a suit with jacket, or

coat with flap pockets.

Trousers, or breeches and leggins, maybe worn with either jacket or coat, but

breeches and leggins are the coachman's

preference ; and, for wear about the

stable, when exercising horses, or in the

saddle, they are preferable.

A brown square hat should be worn

with the jacket ; while with the coat either

a square hat or a coaching hat may be

worn—both are equally correct.

For country use, it is, at all times, in

good taste; also in town, with many of

the traps used by men ; on a drag, when

used for road purposes ; or on an omnibus,

going to the station of a morning, and

when taking the children and nurses for

an airing.

But, so much license is given this livery;

LIVERYone's environment has so much weight,

that it is next to impossible to indicate any

hard and fast rules. We shall always be

pleased, however, to advise, if the charac-

ter of the trap and the conditions under

which it is used are given.

THE short top-coat of covert-cloth

is the only proper overcoat for

undress livery.

Brown Oxford-mixed and tan suit, with

jacket $24 GO

With breeches and leggins, instead of

trousers 2)^ 50

Suit with coat 25 00

With breeches and leggins, instead of

trousers 33 5°

Breeches 11 00

Knee-strapping of buckskin 3 00

Full-strapping 6 00

Leggins 4 00

Box-cloth leggins 6 00

Trousers 7 5°

Corduroy trousers, for stable use 4 5°

Double-breasted heavy top-coat of covert-

cloth 22 00

Single-breasted medium top-coat of cov-

ert-cloth 16 00

Coaching hat (bell -crown), black or tan. . 4 00

Square top, black, brown, and tan .... 3 00

23

L I \^ E R YWhipcord stable cap $150Coachmen's flannel shirts $2 50 and 3 00

Heavy tan shoes, lace 3 00 and 5 00

Coachmen's collars (four shapes), 25c. each,

per dozen 2 75

Punjab scarfs (plastrons), 50c. each, per

dozen 5 5^

Cuffs, per dozen $275 and 4 50

Gloves, craven tan, unlined i 50

"Grip " 2 25

Coachman and Groom : WetWeather and Cold

Coachman and Groom : WetWeather and Cold

UNLESS actually storming when

leaving the stable, see that your

coachman wears a silk hat, for he

should always carry a rubber or mackin-

tosh coat in the boot of the carriage, with

a rubber hat-cover in one pocket and knit

gloves in the other.

If storming, either a high black cassi-

mere or a silk hat, with rubber cover, maybe worn—both are correct.

Rain or shine, a large umbrella should

be carried on a brougham, underneath

the skirt ; the handle to protrude on the

nigh side of the carriage. It is especially

adapted for the use of servants going be-

tween carriage and house doors.

Coachmen's mackintoshes, roomy enough

to go over the heavy box-cloth overcoat,

black $15 00

The same, white 25 00

Selby (apron, $8 50) 24 00(See page 32.)

Rubber coats, white or black , 5 oo

29

LIVERYCoach umbrellas $3 75 and $5 00

Storm gloves 50

Gloves, lined 3 00

Storm cassimere hat 5 00

Mackintosh hat-cover 2 00

Rubber hat-cover i 25

Rubber boots, knee 3 50

Storm boots 4 00

Furs :

Gloves : Sealskin, colored coon, and

bearskin.

Capes : Goat, Moufflon, colored coon,

and bearskin.

Robes: Goat, Moufflon, colored coon,

and bearskin.

Prices vary so considerably from season to season, that we prefer

not to make quotations ; but the prices will be as low, if not lower,

than elsewhere.

Aprons

/

>;

Aprons

APRONS are usually lined with a

plain worsted. In the centre of

the topis placed a medallion, for

a monogram or crest ; to the under side

of this medallion is fastened a strap, with

which to make fast to the seat-rail.

Four-in-hand or tandem aprons should

strap around the waist and come to the

ankle when standing—they're known as

''Selbys."

Aprons should generally match the trim-

mings of a carriage.

We have a pattern superior to any yet

made in this country— it gives less room

at the bottom and more at the top, so the

wearer can sit on it.

Robes to match English box-cloth great-

coats, blue, green, black, drab, claret,

and cream. Plain, with rounded cor-

ners $30 00

Cut with a gore directly in the middle

— fit better and don't slip 32 00

33

LIVERYRobes to match, American box-cloth, blue,

green, and black. Plain, with rounded

corners $22 oo

Cut with a gore 24 oo

Aprons (with flaps and pockets) to match

English box-cloth 40 00

To match American box-cloth 30 00

Summer robes, to match coachman's body-

coat, in blue, green, black, or claret . . 15 00

In drab 18 00

Whipcord aprons, unlined 12 00

Lined 1 8 00

Selby aprons (coat, $24 00) 8 50

Butler and Second-man : Morn-

ing Afternoon and Evening

^

Butler and Second - man : Morn-

ing Afternoon and Evening

OF a morning, vuitil after luncheon,

the })lain black jacket or coat is

permissible for the butler—a black

one invariably; the ordinary turned-down

or standing collar ; black calfskin or pat-

ent-leather shoes—shoes that do not

squeak.

Permissible, we have said, but not so

smart as the Tuxedo coat and low \vaist-

coat.

Neither is right at luncheon, should

there be guests.

What applies to the butler, applies to

the second-man ; except that the butler

usually waits on the table at breakfast and

luncheon alone, so the second-man has

little use for a Tuxedo ; though, if ever

called upon to wait, the Tuxedo is what

he should wear.

Jackets of broadcloth, nun's-cloth, or

white duck should never be worn in pri-

vate service.

37

L I \ E R YBlack cheviot suit with jacket $15 00

Black cheviot suit with coat 16 00

Tuxedo coat and waistcoat 18 00

Breakfast jacket of nun's-cloth 225White duck i 50

Black broadcloth 7 00

Green baize-cloth apron i 50

Gingham apron, with bib 30White apron, with bib 25

White apron, without bib 25

Black satin and silk ties 50

Shirts, per dozen $11 25 and 1

7

00

Collars, per dozen i 50 and 2 75

CufTs, per dozen 2 75 and 4 50

Noiseless house-shoes, kid or patent .... 2 25

At luncheon, en faniille, a butler is

dressed in his morning clothes; if there

are guests, he should be dressed the same

as when opening the door for afternoon

calls, or waiting on the table at dinner :

swallow-tail coat and white tie.

In case a second-man is employed, the

butler is not expected to open the door

of an afternoon or evening.

If guests are at dinner, white gloves are

needed ; otherwise not.

If you find it unnecessary to have a

second-man, yet have carriages, it is

39

L I V E R Yquite correct (rather smart, in fact) to

put your butler on a lady's carriage, es-

pecially an oi)en one, for afternoon call-

ing and park-driving ; but then he should

wear the house-footman's livery with white

gloves and silk hat; in cold weather, a

great-coat to match that worn by the

coachman (for prices see page i8). This

coat is kept in the house, not stable—as

should be all rugs used by ladies.

Putting a butler or house-footman on

your carria.ge, could never be taken as a

sign that you have no groom ; for many

ladies prefer the house-footman, no mat-

ter how many servants they have.

Dress-suit of. imported worsted $27 00

White cotton gloves, per pair 25

Dress bows,. per dozen I 50

String ties, per dozen 25c. to i 50

AT dinner the. house-footman wears

what, to the casual observer, would

look like a dress-coat, except that

it is ordinarily of a color, chosen as the

family color—appearing in all liveries.

The waistcoat should be of striped or

solid color valentian or plush ; trousers

4*

LIVERYof the same material as the coat, piped to

match the waistcoat. Coat collar may be

of velvet—simply a question of taste.

Shirt collar should be white—standing

always ; tie white. Black calfskin, or

patent-leather shoes—shoes that do not

squeak.

All the servants of the house should

wear the same livery.

Club servants dress as do house-foot-

men.

House-footman's suit of imported livery

cloth, green, blue, black, or claret coats $20 00

Trousers 9 00

Waistcoats, striped valentian, all colors . . 5 00

Plush 8 00

Plain valentian 6 00

Monogram or crest buttons, moulded,

per dozen 10 00

Large die for buttons..- 25 00

Small die 15 00

Buttons, made from die, large, per dozen

.

2 00

Buttons, made from die, small, per dozen i 00

If we don't have it, we'll get it—will

gladly estimate for hotels and clubs.

Hall-Boy and Page

Hall-Boy and Page

A HALL-BOY'S coat is a button-to-

the-neck coat, and should be kept

buttoned ; so there is no necessity

for a waistcoat in summer.

In winter, for the same reason, any old

heavy waistcoat may be used. This calls

for a medium-weight cloth, one that can

be used the year round—such as tricot.

Other and thinner suits will be made

if desired.

Blue tricot suit $i6 oo

Porter or hall-boy's cap i 50

Collars, per dozen $1 50 and 2 75

Cuffs, per dozen 2 75 and 4 50

Black satin and silk ties 50

Calfskin shoe, lace 3 50

Patent-leather Oxford tie 2 25

A PAGE should wear the " buttons "

suit, morning, noon, and night;

a high, white collar, white tie,

shoes of black calfskin or patent leather,

and a cap matching suit when running

errands.

45

LIVERYA page may do all the work of a

second- man, even to appearing on the

box of a carriage (see page 13) ; every-

thing except wait on the table.

The ''Buttons" of a private house,

takes the place of the hall-boy in restau-

rants, apartments and the like.

Blue tricot suit $12 00

Extra trousers 3 50

Collars, per dozen i 50

Cuffs, per dozen 2 40

String ties, per dozen 25c. to i 50

Cap, blue . . . i 25

Calfskin shoe, lace 3 50

Patent-leather Oxford tie 2 25

Terms

Terms

ALL purchases are delivered free

within one hundred miles of NewYork City.

Mail orders to the amount of $20 or

over, if fully paid in advance, are deliv-

ered free to any point in the United

States.

Responsible persons, by giving city

references, may remit after receipt of

goods ; but may not have goods delivered

free, farther than one hundred miles from

New York City.

In all other cases we send by express,

with bill for collection. The express

agent is authorized to hold the amount

collected for C. O. D. packages for one

day, and if you return the goods within

that time, to refund the money paid for

the goods and the expressage.

Beyond the one hundred mile limit, we

do not pay expressage, but pay for return

LIVERYof money on C. O. D. packages. Should

the express agent refuse to allow exami-

nation, or to refund the money paid for

the goods that prove unsatisfactory, re-

turn them by express to us, and we will

promptly refund the amount paid for the

goods and the express charges.

* Parcels weighing four pounds or less,

may be mailed for one cent an ounce,

and registered for eight cents additional.

The ' post-office refuses parcels of more

than four pounds.

'. Return garments at our expense for

alteration; we do not pay for local

tailor's work. We make no charge for

alterations.

For your convenience when in the city,

we have three stores on Broadway—one

On the corner of Prince, one on the cor-

ner of Warren, and one on the corner of

Thirty-second Street.

But please bear in mind that goods will

not be delivered to your servants without

a written order.

Printed for

Rogers Peet & Company

under the direction of

H. Ingalls Kimball

M dccc xcviii

LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

014 080 2Y4-4'"' I1" T""T TT " '^14 080 174 4 #LIVLki 5-

Md CCC XCVlll

^jg^^