(1900) barber instructor & toilet manual

8/9/2019 (1900) Barber Instructor & Toilet Manual

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TT 960.B83Copy 1


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: V . ' ,HU Ktct *0NOV 10 1900

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Copyrighted, 1900, hyFrank C Bridgeford.

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Barber Instructor and Toilet Manual.

THE BAKBER."By whose decrees, our sinful souls to save.No Sunday tankards foam, no barber shave." BykonThe occupation of barber is an institution

of civilized life, and is only known amongthose nations that have made a certain pro-gress in civilization. It is referred to by theprophet Ezekiel: "And thou, son of man, takethee a barber's razor, and cause it to passthine head and upon thy beard." (Ezek. v. i,)We do not read of barbers at Rome untilabout the year of 454 of the city; but there,as elsewhere, when once introduced, theybecame men of great notoriety, and theirshops were the resort of all the loungers andnewsmongers in the city. Hence they arealluded to by Horace as most accurately in-formed in all the minute history, both offamilies and of state. But in early times, theoperations of the barber were not confined, asnow, to shaving, hair-dressing and making ofwigs; but included the dressing of wounds,blood-letting, and other surgical operations.It seems that in all countries the art of sur


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gcry and the art of shaving went hand in hand.The title of B-Chirurgeon, or B-Surgeon, wasgenerally applied to barbers. The B ofLondon, were first incorporated by EdwardIV, in 1 46 1, and at that time were the onlypersons who practiced surgery. The barbersand the surgeons were separated, and madetwo distinct corporations; in France, in thetime of Louis XIV, and in England in 1745.The sign of B-Chirurgeon consisted of a strip-ped pole from which was suspended a basin;the fillet round the pole indicating their ribandor bandage twisted round the arm previous tcblood-letting, and the basin or vessel for re-ceiving the blood. This sign has been gener-ally retained by the modern barber. In ourcountry, nevertheless, it is only occasionallythat the basin may be seen hanging at thedoor of an old barber's shop. The characterof the barber is amusingly illustrated in one ofthe tails of the Arabian Nights entertainmentsand has been immortalized by Beaumarchais,Mozart and Rossinni, under the name ofFigaro.


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Barber instructor and Toilet Manual

STROPPING THE RAZOR.The best strop in use known to the barber

fraternity is the genuine Russian leather strop,the price of which is from $i.oo to $1.25each, and will last a person a life time ifproper care is taken of the same. There arecheaper strops on the market, such as horsehide and the different kinds of common leatherstrops which seem to be very good, but in ourmind there is nothing equal to the genuineRussian leather strop.

In stropping hang your strop in a goodfirm position, either on the side of your chairor on your bench where it will be the properheight. Draw the razor from the heel tothe point making same strokes from right toleft. It is well after you take your razorfrom the hone to strop it very gentlyon the leather before putting it on the canvas,for which use only the genuine Russianleather strop. In stropping, after making afew strokes to temper the edge on the leather,then strop gently on the canvas, then again onthe leather until you get the edge tempered in


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shape. Do not shave a right hard beard as icmay crumple \our edge, but strop gently,shaving an eas)- man first until you can judgethe tempering of the razor and then you canshave the hardest beard with perfect ease.

INSTRUCTIONS IN HONING.Great care and caution should be taken in

honing a razor. We will endeavor in theseinstructions to give you the method of honing,on the three principle hones, used at the pre-sent time, namely: lather hone, or what isknown to some barbers as the hickory hone.The water hone has been in use a great manyyears. Having used this mostly in my busi-ness for the last twenty-five years, I willcommence giving you instructions on thewater hone. The water hone is of Germanorigin and you will find it used by Germans,more so than any other class of barbers. Tohone a razor however, it should be done whenthe barber has no care on his mind, and notwhen customers are waiting, nor when he hasany other business to occupy his mind. An


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old sayinor that I remember when I was a boy,"That a sharp razor was half the shaving, anda well lathered and soft beard the other half."

HONING ON THE WATER HONE.Balance the razor carefully on the fore-

fingers for honing; commence at the heel anddraw the razor diagonally across the hone to apoint toward the edge as in following cut,

running up so that it will be in the same posi-tion on the left side as it was in starting fromthe right. Draw dow^n w'ith the same weightand pressure on both sides, being careful tomake the licks from right to left exactly thesame, thereby keeping the bevel the same onboth sides of the razor. Now, look at your


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razor occasionally as you hone and see that thebevel is the same on both sides. Keep thehone well dampened with water and rub itoccasionally with the rubber for the purposeof making a thick gray paste. After you thinkyou have honed a sufficient length of timedraw your razor across your finger nail, thenif it presents a sticky feeling like the keenedge of a knife on your finger you shouldknow that you have honed sufficient.If, however, niches are still on the edge youwill have to hone until they disappear. Afteryou have honed a short time feel the edgewith your finger and if it draws all theway long even and smoothe you may knowthat you have your razor in shape to put onyour strop. If the razor is new and wellground, very little honing will be necessaryon any hone as it is more likely to be worsefor the razor and it is very hard to get intocondition again, when once over-honed.


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THE LATHER HONE.The lather or hickory hone, as it is knownto a large number of barbers, is in general usethroughout the country, and is one of theprincipal hones now in use. Its origin isBelgium, and it is a manufactured hone. It ismanufactured by the process of petrification.You use lather on this hone exclusively; alsosome use oil to a good advantage. You com-mence honiuLT the razor in the same manneras on the water hones. Hone from the heelto the point, same asin cut shown previous.Then turn razor in fingers, then turn razoraround so that both back and edo-e touch on thehone. Draw carefully if the razor is very dullgive it a great many strokes from right to leftto get it in the right condition, but as I say ifthe razor is in fair shape it will need very littlehoning. Keep testing the razor so that youknow when the edge is in good shape, andkeep putting lather on hone. In this way you willfeel if it is cutting the same on both sides. Testthe razor the same way as you did on thewater hone. Feel it with your fingers occas-


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ionally to sc? if you have honed sufficient, alsodraw jrently across your fini^ers to see if itfeels sticky and holds fast to your fingers, thesame as in honing on the water hone.

THE SWATY HONE.This is comparatively a new product. It

was invtMited by Francis Swaty, of Veinna,and is practically more in use now than anyother used, and when in good condition ittakes very little honing I will give you in-structions pertaining to the Swaty hone.

1 .The two sides of the alumine hone differin roughness, the side marked with the firm isthe sharper one.

'2. Half hollow or thick razors must behoned first on the rougher surface, but not toolong, and then on the finer surface as describedin article 3.

3.On the finer side only the thin hollowGROUND razor can be honed in the followino^manner: Put the razor with the back flat onthe hone as shown before in cut, and draw therazor three or four times against the edge;


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when drawing back, the razor must be turnedon its back. Then try the edge. Should itnot be sharp enough try the same processagain until the required sharpness is produced.

4.Honing can be done with oil, water orsoap suds.

5.Should the rough side, by long use gettoo smooth rub it when dry with rough emerypaper or with a flat piece of pumice stone andplenty of water.

6.Should the finer surface by long use gettoo smooth rub it gently at first with fineemery paper.The price of the Swaty hone is 50c to $1.00.

The price of the hickory hone runs from 75cto almost as high as a person wants to go,according to size and quality, etc. In buyinga good hone the price should be no object; ofcourse, the higher price you pay for a honethe better hone you obtain. It is well togo a great deal on the judgement of the supplyman in buying a hone as they handle themevery day and have experience which the gen-eral public cannot obtain.


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SELECTING A RAZOR.There is so man)- ^ood l)rands of razors ontlic inarkc^t at tlic present time that it is hardto tell which is the best, Ihe foUowini^'- is thenames of some of the leadiniL^ brands: BlueSteel, Bismarck. Cosmos, IMars Razor, Nancy1 ianks; all ol whicii arc: sold here in KansasCity. The same applies to razors as to hones.These razors are all i^'-uaranteed b)' the supplyman and if you do not (^et a good razor atfirst they will allow ) ou to exchange until youdo get a good one, which is absolutely guaran-teed. As I have stated before you shouldput a great deal ol conhdence in the supplyman in regard to picking out a good razor orgel some expc;rienced barbc^r who has beenused to handling razors to select for ycnior tell \ou souK^thing about them. There isbut one wa)' of telling however, and that is bythoroughly testing it, which they will all allowyou to do.


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the razor in your hand. Strop your razoraccording to instructions on stropping. If thelather becomes dry while you are stroppingyour razor put on more lather until it is soft-ened sufficient. Lay your paper on his breast.Now, you are ready for shaving. Take yourrazor and balance it on the three fingers, withthe little finger over the top of the handle andthumb on side of the blade known as move-ment No. I. With this stroke shave downtoward the side of the face, stretching the skinwith the little finger of the left hr.nd; shavedown half way to the point of the chin. Wipeyour razor turning the thumb on the other sideand follow movement No. 2. then with thisstroke shave to the point of chin. Wipe yourrazor again, commencing at the point of chinchanging your razor to movement No. i

,

shaving down the point of chin to the throat,going down shaving with the grain. Wipe offyour razor, commence at the bottom and shaveup with the grain until you meet the place leftoff in shaving down. Turn the head overgently by placing the left hand back of the


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ears. Shave; down the left cheek backhandedusing movemetifrNo. 2, then chancre again torfiovement No. i, shaving down to pointand across the chin, then go back to move-ment No. 2, commencing at the point of chinon the left side same as instructions on shavingthe right side, draw straight down the throatwith the grain, then you change usmg move-ment No. 3 on the neck. Let the little fingerdrop over the handle of razor, holding it withthe fore finger and press the thumb on top ofthe blade. Use this movement in shaving onthe neck all the time pushing the razor towardthe chin. In r.having the upper lip take razorin position, place your finger against the topof the nose, thumb on the chin. Make gentlestrokes, shaving the right toward the left andthe same on the left side. If you cannot reachall the hair with motion No. 2, change withyour finger stretching the lip and use move-ment No. I for finishing the bottom. Afteryou have gone over the face the first time geta clean cloth or towel, wet in warm water andwash the face. It is a matter of taste and


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practice as to the position in which you holdthe towel. Some perform the operation byputtin^^ the towel around the face and rubbing,while others take the towel between the firstand second finger and wrap it around the hand.But as I have stated before, it is merely amatter of taste and practice with the artist. Inshaving the face over the second time takeyour razor in the right hand and with the twolittle fingers on the handle, then take yourbottle between the first two fingers, puttingwater on your left hand sufficient enough toget face well moistened for shaving the secondtime over. In this operation you can shavediagonally against the grain at the same timerubbing the face well and stretching the skinwith the fingers of the left hand, feeling forthe beard that has been left from the first time;in this the second time you go against thegrain, shaving in this manner only when it isthe wish of the customer, as it often timesmakes the face sore, and as it only makes adifference of a couple of hours after beingshaved. In shavinor the second time over use


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mostly movements No. i and 3. After youhave finished shaving take and wet your towelin warm water, and lay it across the face, butnot covering- the mouth and nose, as it effectstheir breathing and is very disagreeable; re-peat this operation two or three times if nec-essary. Some patrons are willing to payextra for hot towels. Now take your bay rumbottle in your left hand, putting bay rum onthe face with the right hand, rub gently andthen put your towel over the face, the one youhave been using, being particular not to pullit out so that the water will not run down theneck, then wipe the face thoroughly dry, usingthe towel as a fan to assist in drying the face.Then rub the face with the towel until you arethoroughly satisfied it is perfectly dry. Puton your powder, doubling the towel so as tomake a puff, straighten your man up in thechair and you are now ready to comb hishair, etc


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INSTRUCTIONS ON HAIR CUTTING.In cLittine H'lir there are no deffinent

names settled on as to the different styles ofhair cutting. Each supply house gets out astyle plate of its own. I herein introducethirty-six different styles, which will be ofgreat advantage to patrons to select from. Ifind that the best success is attained by cuttingthe hair according to the customer's wishes,regardless or style plate or names. It has beenmy purpose to dispense with clippers as muchas possible in teaching hair cutting, as I findthat when a new student commences to cuthair; it is so much easier to cut with the clip-pers that he wishes to use them all the time;which is a very bad habit. In cutting hair itis always advisable to leave as much hair onthe customer's head as possible. Trim it upnicely with the shears, so that the barber canget him again as a customer. For example,if he should cut the hair with the clippers inthe spring, it would probably be the only haircut that he could get from that man during theseason. While if he trims it around the neck


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and ears he would possibly get to trim thatman's hair as often as once a month, rightalong, and he would also get it dirty,and it would have to be shampooedmuch more frequent then if he cuts the hairclose with the clippers all ov^er the head. Itwould be no trouble for him to wash hishair every time he washed his face, therefore,the barber would loose the chance of SeaFoam or Shampoo. In cutting hair placeyour hair cloth or apron tight around the necksitting your customer straight up in the chair.Commence to trim on the right side over thetemple and around the ear. Hold your shearswith the thumb and third finger of the righthand, comb between the first two fingers andthumb of the left hand. Comb the hair downto straighten it out. Commence trimmingacross from temple to ear, making it the sameon the lower and higher part according to theway the customer wishes it done. Great careshould be taken in trimming around the neck,Because a good trim around the neckwith the razor sets off a hair-cut better


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fe^jj^fey-


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HA^rSMiwcu '^I- H$>RS^SyOC Nail


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than anythinor else. You might numberthe hair-cuts in this manner: No. i, for aclose cut with the cHppers. No. 2, for afeather edge, or with the cHppers around theneck, fmishing with the shears. No. 8, for ashingle. No. 4, for a long trim. No. 5, fora bush or a buff cut as known to barbers. Iwill say something more in regard to hair cut-tmg in some of my future lectures. I will takeup singeing, dying, blondining and shampoo-ing for my next lecture.

SEA FOAM, SHAMPOO, ETC.Sea-foaming is performed by having

your shampoo prepared according to receipt,which you will find in this volume. Put yoursea foam on the head and rub it well until itmakes a nice thick lather all over the head. Indry shampoo you keep rubbing it with yourbrush or fingers until the lather naturallyevaporates then brush it good and wipe dry,with a clean dry towel. In shampooing usethe shampoo paste, or shampoo fluid as thecase may be, or as the barber sees fit. Put


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on your shampoo paste, and water and rub ituntil you get the hair thoroughly lathered. Becareful to scratch the head well with your fin-gers or brush, getting all the dandruff out ofthe scalp, Fasten your towel securely aroundthe neck, with the towel over the hair cloth.Secure the fastening so that it will not slip orcome loose while the customer is taken to thewater stand. Here you rinse his head thor-oughly with nice warm water, rubbing drywith a clean dry towel, while you have cus-tomer still bent over the wash stand. Thensit him back in the chair, again dryingthe hair. Put on your pomade and comb thehair as usual.

SINGEING.Singeing the hair, although a very sim-

ple operation, is claimed by most barbers tobe very beneficial to the hair, as they claim itwill stop the hair from falling out, and inmany cases restore the hair. Singeing is donewith a wax or gas taper. Some call themsingeing tapers. They are for sale at all gas


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fitter's establishments, and barber supplyhouses. You lig-ht the taper and commencesingeing the hair usually after cutting the hairand in the same manner. Commence aroundthe bottom being careful to get all the endssinged around the sides and top, more partic-ular on top where the hair is falling out.After the hair is thoroughly singed take yourbrush and rub it well to get the burnt ends off,also rub it with your fingers. It is a goodidea if you can persuade your customer tohave a sea-foam or a shampoo afterward.While we have always been in favor of singe-ing, it is our experience that the most benefi-cial results are obtained by the barber, there-by increasing his profits. Singeing is the sameprice as a hair cut, or shampoo, when hair-cutting is twenty-five cents, the same chargeis made for singeing.

DYEING THE HAIK.Dyeing is also a very simple operation

and very profitable to the barber. You com-mence dyeing the hair after thoroughly wash-


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ing it with soap and water, or shampoo.There is several kinds of dye in use, but I amunable to recommend anything equal to theold "lightning" dye. The receipt you have inthis book. After you have thoroughly driedthe hair put on No. i, combing the hair thor-oughly and when almost dry put on dyeNo. 2. This instantly turns the hair blackand after you have thorougly combed thisthrough the hair, getting it the same ill over,then take your fan and dry the hair, care shouldbetaken in combing the No. 2 through the hair.If you should blacken the skin, these spotscan be removed by burning common paperand rubbing the black ashes on the same, witha towel across the fingers before washing,then rub the skin where the dye has stained itputting on soap and water and washingit well, after doing this the stains will alldisappear. After you have thoroughly dyedand washed it, if there should be smallspots or places where it has not stained prop-erly, retouch it again with No. i, also No. 2,until you get the desired shade. Dry it again


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then put on your pomade, oil, etc., and combnicely and your job is finished. For this opera-tion you should get from $i.oo to $4.00.During the World's Fair at Chicago, I haveknown several barbers to charge as high as$15.00 for this operation, the customer notknowing what he was to be charged until thejob was finished. At the present time whenthey think a customer is a stranger in the cityand not liable to make any great kick theycharge very high prices.

BLONDINING THE HAIR.Blondining is performed in the same

manner as dyeing, but instead of dye you useamonia. After washing the hair well, useweakened amonia. Let the hair dry thencomb through it paroxide of hydrogen two orthree times daily until the hair has attainedthe shade you desire. It will be necessary tocomb the paroxide of hydrogen through thehair at least once a week to keep the hair theghade you wish it.


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STERILIZATION OF RAZORS.Some barber asks information as to an

antiseptic solution m which to dip razors. Hefinds that prparations he has used for this pur-pose corrode the steel. This is a difficulty wellknown to surgeons, and probably the best wayto overcome it is by the use of heat. "Flaming"that is passing the Instrument repeatedlythrough a flame is ore way of effecting thedestruction of disease germs, but if donethoroughly it may affect the temper of the steel.Boiling in water minimizes this difficulty, andinstruments so treated prove efficient as to cut-ting power. The boiling must be long continuedto prove wholly efficacious with all germs,including their spores; the process may bematerially shortened by boiling under pressureso that the temperature of the water isincreased; according to Sternberg, at tempera-ture of 22 1 F. the spores of bacilli will be de-stroyed by an exposure of ten minutes, and ata temperature of 230 F. the same result isattained in one or two minutes. Boiling steel


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in pure water, however, causes rusting to guardagainst this about i per cent of pure sodiumcarbonate is added to the water. Complaintshaving been made that this was not alwaysefficacious, Dr. Edward Andrews undertooksome experiment some years ago regardingit on which he reported in the Journal of theAmerican Medical Association. Plates ofpolished steel well washed with eiyther to re-move all oily matter from the surface, platesof aluminium and several scalpels with handlesof different metals (so chosen to ascertain ifgalvanic action was a factor in the operation)were boiled in water with and without theaddition of sodium carbonate, soap and otheragents. From these experiments the authordrew the following conclusions: i. Hot dis-tilled water and steam rapidly rust steel instru-ments. 2. One per cent, solutions of soapand sodium carbonate almost perfectly protectsteel instruments, provided they are completelyimmersed in the lluid. 3. If instruments lie ina shallow boiling pan and are not fully coveredwith the protective lluid, and a cover or towel


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is laid over them, the portions projectingabove the fluid will only get a steam bath andwill rapidly rust. This is the accident which hascaused some to think there is no uniformity,about the action of protective fluids in prevent-ing rust. The fluids themselves will not causeoxidation, but the steam rising from them willeasily corrode steel. The boiling processwhile simpler than immersion in solutions ofantiseptics is probably more certain in itseffects.

BAZORS.The barber shaves with a polished blade,While the milliner shaves when ladies trade:

The banker shaves at ten per centWhile the landlord shaves in raising rent,

The doctor shaves in draughts and pills,While the druggist shaves in pints and gills ;The politician shaves the nation.The preacher shaves for all salvation ;The broker shaves in cashing notes ;While the farmer shaves in corn and oats

The lawyer shaves both friends and foes.The pedler shaves where e'er he goes,

The wily merchant shaves his brother,In fact you all shave one another.


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GOOD ADVICE TO BARBERS.Because you have been runniiiL^a "cheap"

shop is no reason why you should so continue.Because you have only been running twochairs heretofore, is no reason why )ou shouldnot be running- three, four or fivti by the endof the year. Because you have been makingonly 1 20.00 per week last year, is no reasonwhy your profits this year should not averagetwice as much or more.

As a beofinnine, sit down for a momentand look around your shop. Is it spotlesslyclean? Are all the tools neatly arranged,bottles well filled and hair-cutting cloths neat-ly folded and hung upon the chairs? Are thechairs attractive to the eye, comfortable to theoccupant and up-to- date? Have you a regu-lar mirror case, or are you still clinging to theold-fashioned looking glass and bracket?

Questioning yourself in this way, andcarefully looking into the numerous detailsthat make up a successful barber shop, we aresatisfied that you will find something that can


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be improved upon. There is surely somethingthat can be done to make each year moreprosperous.We are reminded of a conversation helda short time ago, with a barber from a largeTexas town. When we had the pleasure ofmeeting him, he was in a very restless frameof mind. He said for years he had been run-ning a three chair barber shop, which waslocated in the residence part of the city inwhich he lived. He was doing a fair business,and as long as it did not grow less from yearto year he had been satisfied, but, said he, "itsuddenly dawned upon me that although thecity had been rapidly building up around me,my trade had not increased at all. I awaken-ed to the fact that my weekly receipts are justabout the same now as they were four yearsago. I began to study the situation, and verysoon learned that people in the neighborhoodwere walking right past my door and patron-izing a fellow two blocks up, the street. Hehad started up about a year ago and I had notpaid much attention to him, but when I began


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to compare his shop with my own, I had toadmit there was a difference. His shop wasby far the more attractive, and you candepend upon it that first impressions go alongway; but I've put in modern chairs now anda bright new mirror case, and the boys allwear white coats, and I guess we'll stop thosepeople from walking past the door hereafter."

This man woke up. Probably you, too,are doing well enough, but could you not dcbetter? Are there any customers walkingpast your door.'^


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THE BARBERS' TRADE AS A LIFE CALLING.There are few trades offering better in-

ducements than that of the barber. Every-where in the civiHzed world he readily findsemployment. It is not at all likely that thebarbers trade will to any great extent ever beinterfered with by machinery. The barbercommands a good salary and steady imploy-ment. He is constantly surrounded by thecurrent news of the day and always has timeto read and keep abreast with the progress ofthe wdl'd. Barbers wages in the United Statesrun from ten to eighteen dollars a week, owingto locality and other conditions.


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A GOOD SUGGESTION TO THE BARBER.The disadvantages of learning the bar-

bers' trade in the shop are more numerous byfar than is the case in any other trade; theprincipal one, however, is the useless lengthof time required to secure the necessary prac-tice. This is due to the fact that in no othertrade does it require that pain must be sufferedby the practice subject in order that the ap-prentice may learn it, and since practice canbe had only at the cost of pain, the securingof practice becomes the chief problem of teach-ine the trade, and for this reason there arebut few men who will ever submit themselvesas practice subjects for the apprentice and payfor the work besides; and in a barber shopwhere all are supposed to pay for their work,men are generally to proud to become practicesubjects in sonsideration of free service.Therefore, most of the practice had in a bar-ber shop is secured only by concealing the factthat the workman is an apprentice, and to hidethis fact from outward observation, the pro-


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prietor seldom goes about the apprentice tostudy and direct his movements, and which isthe otily time that instructions in teaching thebarbers' trade are of any value, and thereforethe shop proprietor is precluded from per-forming his duties as an instructor. A patronfinding himself thus imposed upon, is alwaysliable to remonstrate against the deception,and the apprentice is therefore usually nervousand unfitted for receiving the benefit of hispractice. Under these circumstances the in-structions are very infrequent and much thatis recived by way of instruction at one time isforgotten by the next. By computing thetime occupied in actual work at -the chair dur-ing the usual appreticeship, it is found in mostcases not to exceed three months. To avoidserving these years of misdirected drudgery,and the other numerous drawbacks, the barberschool was established in many of the leadingcapitals of Europe for the purpose of teachingthe trade, and where it has proved to be themost gracious liberator of shop drudges of allthe trade-schools yet known and is therefore


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greatly encouraged. The barber school ofBerlin, Germany, catalogued 399 students in1885, and another at Prague, Austria, listedas high as 107 students in 1888. Two barberschools were established by private enterprisein the City of Brussels in 1897 and have beensubsidized by the Belgian government.

Mr. Richard T. Auchmuty, an ableAmerican authority on the subject of tradeeducation, has stated the situation very pre-cisely, and in a few words. He says: "Oneof the accepted theories of the trades-union isthe advantage to be derived from limiting thenumber of workers. Instead of the fact thatwork makes work, that one busy class givesemployment to other classes, it is assumedthat there is a certain amount of work to bedone and the fewer there is to do it the higherwages will be. It is therefore sought to makeeach trade into a monopoly; although theseefforts have been uniformally unsuccessful,they have marred the lives of thousands ofyoung men, and still continue to do so. Couldthe opposition of the trades-unions be over-


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come, a great source of wealth would beopened to those now approaching manhood.The effect of this policy is a matter of indiffer-ence to the trade unionist, for he cares butlittle for the future; he looks only to the num-ber of dollars it is possible to extract from aday's work. He willingly surrenders his liber-ty and judgement to his union officers, whogenerally turn it to business or political profitfor themselves,"

General impressions go along way in thisworld. A man may have some particularhobby and imagine, for instance, that he isnot being properly shaved if the razor is notheld in a certain position, or travels in a speci-fied direction, or is not stropped a certainnumber of times between the first and secondgoings over. He may have some particularidea upon some particular subject which heuses as a guage of the grade of barber shophe is in, but such a man is the exception andnot the rule. The average man has a guagewhich he applies, but you will find that nine


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times out of ten his eye rests first upon thebarber's chair. If he sees an old fashioned,uncomfortable chair, a general feeling of dissatisfaction creeps over him. He begins tofeel that the soap you use is not good, thatyour razors pull and that your after-shavingpreparation is not pleasant. All this before heputh himself under your care. The sight ofthe old fashioned chair starts him off in a crit-ical, dissatisfied frame of mind. But if he seesa modern, up-to-date, bright, comfortablelooking chair, the result is just the opposite.He does not look for trouble and is not in acriticising mood. Of course the soap is good,of course the razor is perfect, and the after-shaving lotion just suits him. He starts in onthe right tract and there's everything in thestart one gets always.


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i

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DISEASES OF THE HAIR AND DIRECTIONSFOR ITS MANAGEMENT.There are numerous disorders of the hair,

predisposing to baldness, ringworm, prema-ture gray hair, etc. Bodily infirmity, diseaseand mental irritation, sudden change ofclimate, have an injurious effect ugon the hair,owe their virulence and connection withdiseases of the skin. The hair of the headmay become weak and slender, and split atextremities, from a deficient action of the bulb,in consequence of debility or impaired vitalpower, frequently connected with disorders ofthe assimilating organs. To preserve the hairand keep it healthy, all excesses or extraordi-nary excitement should be avoided. Mentaland bodily over-stimulation are injurous. Anequable temperment of mind and body areessential to the health and beauty of the hair.Curling the hair in strong or stiff paper has avery injurious effect. The more loosely it canbe folded or twisted, the better for its free andluxurious growth. Soft paper or silk, shouldbe used for papillottes when curling the hair.


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Those who wear the hair in bands and braids,ought to twist or fold it up very loosely atnight, when retiring to rest. It should alwaysbe liberated from forced constraints and plaits.It must be well combed and thoroughly brushedevery morning. After oil has been applied,the hair should be nicely smoothed with thepalm of the hand. To prevent the hair fromsplitting, and to increase the length andstrength, the ends should be tipped once amonth. Many mothers cut the hair of theirdaughters when young, in the idea that it willprevent baldness, and cause it to grow longer,thicker and more abundant. This is a mistak-en notion: Cutting has a tendency to injureits beaty and retard its maximum growth. Itis quite sufficient to tip or clip the ends once amonth. Hair has turned gray in a singlenight, from the efiects of mental emotions andviolent passions. Disappointment, bereave-ment, deep grief, intense care, produce devas-tating effects on the hair. Dr. Wardrop inhis work on ' 'Diseases of the Heart," statesthat the changes which are induced by arterial


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disturbance upon the cutaneous capillaries, areillustrated in a remarkable manner in personswhere the hair of the head has suddenly be-come white, from increased action of the heartcaused by violent mental excitement. Heknew a lady who was so deeply grieved onreceiving- the inteligence of a great change inhe, worldly condition, that she had her darkhair changed into a sdver white in a singlenight.

Long hair is considered a special adorn-ment of woman. The beatiful features andpersonal attractions of the fair sex, are alwaysenhanced by this ornament, Whether theauburn tresses fall in p^raceful fold, the richand glossy curls are bound with roses, or"The long dark hair, floats upon the foreheadin loose waves unbraided," either style willequally serve to set off the ensemble of femaleloveliness.


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TO HAVE FINE THICK HAIR.

Curiously enough, women, as a rule, donot take proper care of their scalps and hair.The scalp, like the pores of the face, must bekept clean to be in a healthy condition. Thehead, if inclined to be oily, should be washedevery week in summer time, if not, once intwo weeks will do. The growth of hair in ahealthy scalp is from eight to ten inches ayear, growing faster in summer than in winter.The hair stretches in wet weather and shrmksin dry, which is the cause of artificially curiedhair becoming straight in moist air.

If you use the curling irons during thesummer, be sure to supply the follicles with alittle extra nourishment in the way of a bril-liantine to make up for that which the heatabstracts.


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The two following recipes furnish thebest possible emollients, the first of which isnon-greasy:

Lavender water, - i ounceGl}'cerine, - - i ounceClarified honey, - 2 ouncesRectified spirits, - 4 ouncesFirst mix the honey and glycerine, then

add the lavender water or eau de cologne andlast of all the spirits.The second recipe is intended to give a

more or less glossy appearance to the hair, aswell as to strengthen it.Castor oil, - - 2 dramsRectified spirits, - 5 ouncesAttar of roses to perfume,Tincture of cochineal, 2 drams

The best way of using these preparationsis to put a few drops into the palm of the handand then rub the bristles of the brush acrossit, and so apply to the hair.

All greasy preparations, it must be re-membered, will darken the hair, as will alsotoo constant and frepuent brushing; therefore


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those whose hair Is very Hght should use thebrush with moderation, employing a bombwith coarse, smooth teeth for the ventilationand disentanglement of their tresses.

Again, white of an Ggg, though excellentfor cleansnig the hair tends to darken it.Those who have blonde, light brown, auburnor chestnut hair will do best to wash their hairwith borax and warm wateran even teaspoon-ful of the former to a teacup of the latter.Rub this into the roots of the hair with a pieceof clean flannel until every particle di dan-druff has been removad. Then dry it thor-oughly, allowing it to hang loose for an houror two, and the next daynot the same re-member rinse with warm water first, then incold, and again dry thoroughly-in the sun, ifpossibleand finally comb gently with acoarse-toothed comb.

This simple wash should not be used oftnerthan once a month. Borax should on no ac-count be used by those whose hair is gray orwhite, as it will tinge the hair yellow A littleindigo put into the rinsing water for gray hair


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imparts to it a most clean and beautiful ap-pearance and in no way injures it.

Brunettes can do no better than to use therosemary wash, which not only cleanses butchecks an)- falling out, especlall)' if this is oc-casioned by excessive heat of the scalp, orsevere headaches.

Boil from six to eight minutes one pound ofrosemary leaves in a quart of water, stainingand adding a lump of champhor, and if thehair is inclined to be dry, a teaspoonful of co-coanut or olive oil.Ammonia should be omitted from any recipe

if the scalp is very dry. During the hotweather many people suffer from loss of hair,due to over heated heads which weaken thescalp. If this occurs, use the following hairwash every morning for a week, then threetimes a week:

Oil of sweet almonds - i ounceSpirits of chloroform - i ounceLaurel water - - i ounceSpirits of rosemary - i ounceMix these ingredients carefully and dab


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Barber Instructor and Tailet Manual

among the roots of the hair; a diminution inthe fall will follow after a few days applica-tion.To counteract the dryness and dandruff

characteristic with so many heads of hair usethe sage tea emollient;

Sage leaves (freshly gathered whenpossible) - - 1-4 poundBoiling water - i pint

Stand on one side for a day and a half, thenstrain through filter-paper and add:

Glycerine - - i ounceSpirits of rosemary - i ounceCamphor - - 1-4 ounce

Use daily two w^eeks, and at night massagethe scalp with the promade below, putting asmall piece on the finger and kneading intothe roots.

Sulphate of quinine - 12 grainsTincture of capsicum i drachmSoft wool fat compound i ounce

To prevent the hair falling after severeheadache, excessive prespiration, or weaknessof the scalp caused by illness, try the following


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lotion, which must be well rubbed into theroots of the. hair three or four times a weekfor a month or six weeks.

Eau de cologne,Tincture of jarborandi,Oil of lavender,Oil of rosemary,A soft bristle brush and a

8 ouncesI ounce

i drachmi drachmcourse, blunt

comb are the only things that ought to beused on the hair. Violence breaks, splits andloosens the hairs, causing them to fall out.Never use a fine tooth comb; it irritates thescalp and frequently leads to disease. When-ever the hair looks ragged at the ends, cut offabout an inch every new moon. Thisstrengthens it.


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DEKMATOLOGY.Diseases affecting the skin. Some are

of trifling character; others are symptomaticof grave internal derangements and are diffi-cult to cure. Many resemble each other andmistakes of identification are apt to occur.

That branch of science which treats ofthe skin and its diseases. The appearancesof cutaneous diseases are very varied, but theusual classification, both in this country andabroad, is that of Willau and Bateman, com-prising eight orders: (i) Papulae, or pimples;(2) Squamae, or scales; (3) Exanthemata, orrashes; (4) Bullae, or blebs, minature blisters;(5) Pustulae, or pustules; (6) Vesiculae, orvesicles; (7) Tuberculae, or tubercles, (8)Maculae, or spots. Dr. Aitkin gives the fol-lowing as the more common diseases of theskin:Erythema, urticaria, nettlerash, lichen,psoriasis, herpes, pemphigus or pompholyx,eczema, ecthyma, acne. The parasitic diseasesare ringworm, or tinea tonsurans, favus, anditch or scabies. Many of these appear in


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combination, or as symptoms of general, con-stitutional, or febrile diseases; and, in additionto these, having- various forms of cutaneousmanifestation, are syphilis, purpura, leprosy,scurvy, and the like, with bronzed-skin orAddison's disease (q. v.). But the classifica-tions are endless.

Under this head we will make a few re-marks and give a few of the best formulas muse for the cure of diseases most liable to comebefore the barber. We wish to state righthere that after 30 years in the barber businesswe have failed so far, to have one case, so-called barber itch, called to our special atten-tion, therefore we think a great deal of themanifestations made by the Board of barberEaxminers, and the Board of Health is unnec-essary. Cleanliness is next to godliness. There-fore if you keep your strops, razor and every-thing else connected with your shop clean, youwill have no trouble with any of the contagiousdiseases. We find out that the best sterilizingagents are soap and water, soap being an anti-septic. However, the utmost care and caution


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should be used after shaving one afflicted withsores or eruptions. The razor should beimmediatly emreged in hot water and soap sudsand thoroughly polished with a chamoisskin or towel. This, however, should be donewith all of your razors. Polish them everyday thereby preventing them from becomingrusty. This should be done when you arethrough work at night. This precaution beingtaken, I will guarantee there will be no spreadof contagious diseases. These formulas thatwe introduce here for the cure of baber itch,pimpler, eruptions, etc. are obtained from thebest authorities on this subject, therefore wecan recommend them without hesitancy asbeing the best curative agency of the presentday.


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APPLICATIONS FOR ROUGHENED SKIN.For a ofood greneral emollient there is

nothing probably better than glycerine; but itshould alway be diluted before application, asif used too freely a' 'stickiness" results which isquite disagreeable. If the glycerine is sold un-diluted for toilet use, the customer should re-ceive instructions to put a few drops on hishands, for instance, while they are yet wetfrom washing, and then distribute evenly overthe surface by rubbing, allow them to drywithout the use of a towel. As a lotion foruse in the ordinary way, the following is con-venient:

Glycerine - i PartRose water - 9 Parts

Plain water may, of course, be used as thedilutent, but a slightly prefumed pre-paration is generally considered more desira-ble. The perfume may easily be obtained bydissolving a very small proportion of hand-kerchief "extract" or some essential oil in theglycerine, and then mixing with plain water.


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If it is desired to tint the liquid, this may bedone by a minute quantity of cochineal color-ing, N. F., which will give a pink tint. Caremust be taken not to use enough to causestaining of the skin. For a toilet creamadapted for dispensing in either collapsibletubes or in glass jars, the official glycerite ofstarch will answer. It is scarcely necessary tosay that this is made simply by stiring to-gether lo grams of starch, 80 of glycerine and10 c. c. of water, and heating gently until ajelly is formed. This jelly may, of course, beperfumed if desired. A little perfume israther desirable, but an excess should beavoided. Many of the essential oils are suit-able for perfumes in this case, as are alsohandkerchief extracts. Another cosmetic isthe so-called glycerine jelly, which may bemade as follows.

Flake tragacanth, selected i drWater - 2 ozsGlycerine - 2 ozs

Place the tragacanth in the water, stir fromtime to time until a perfectly smooth mucilage


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results and then incorporate with it the gly-cerine. As straining a mucilage of tragacanthis difficult if not impracticable without the useof a strong press, the operator should en-deavor to avoid a necessity for it, by usingonly the best articles of flake tragacanth,being careful to pick out pieces which are freefrom any specks of foreign material. If it benecessary, however to use gum the mucilagefrom which will require straining, a large ex-cess of water may be employed, and this ex-cess subsequently driven off on a water bath.1 he first procedure will presumably be themore satisfactory, at least for a small quantity.The formula given above yields a preparationwhich is quite firm; it may, of course, be ren-dered more fluid by the addition of either orboth liquids. The jelly may be scented, ifdesired, by a few drops of oil of rose or otherappropriate perfume, and a pink or read colorgiven to it b)' cochineal coloring. An emol-lient tablet which has proved satisfactory, may


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Barber Instructor and Toilet INIanual

be prepared by the following formula:Mutton suet i8 ozsSpermaceti - 12 ozsWhite wax - 12 ozsOil of rose geranium - 3 drs

Melt together by a gentle heat, reservingthe addition of the oil until the other ingredi-ents are liquified, on account of its volatility,stir well as the mixture begins to cool, con-tinuing until ready to set, when pour intomolds. Yellow wax is preferable to white, thelatter having a somewhat rancid odor. If awhite preparation is desired, the wax mustnecessarily be white, and if a pink or red tintis wanted, the wax should also be white. Thecolor may be given by infusing alkanet ina portion of the suet. The quantities givenabove will make from 24 to 26 tablets if castin molds of i 5-8 by 2 5-8 inches square and7-8 inch deep; a convenient and desirable size.The best material for the molds is block tin.Their form should be a pan, as indicated in thestatement for measurement, the top side en-tirely open, and they should taper very slightly


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on the side from bottom to top. A desirablearrangement is to have them so placed in a traythat they may be surrounded by cold water.The chief use of the tray is to enable themolds to be chilled before casting, which ren-ders adhesion of the tablets much less likely.Much cheaper though less elegant molds maybe made of tinned iron, and the tray may bedispensed with. The usual way for putting upsuch tablets is to wrap them first in thinsmooth paper, then in an outer covering of tinfoil, and lastly to enclose in a paper box.We wish to add in addition to the abovearticle that there is no other preparation forroughened skin and chapped hands than ourcream of roses or nothing better to be usedafter shavino-. It is coolino- and its curitive ormedicinal properties are phenommal. Wewould not think of continuing in the barberbusiness without this preparacion on hand forsale, it is easy prepared; keeps well and ifdisplayed in small bottles with a nice showylable. You will be surprised at the amountyou will sell; especially in the fall of the year.I will not hesitate to say that I have soldhundred of dollars worth. You can do thesame. It is my intention that this article willbe useful to you.


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THE MASSAGE,

There is an old story of an irreverentchild, who, on being punished for some mis-deed by a supper of bread and water, phil-osophically remarked, ''This is a good thingfor the digestion." On being whipped forsuch impertinence she placidly observed,"This is a good thing for the circulation."The ability or reasoning so correctly is notalways vouchsafed to us early in life, but inlater years we learn that good (circulation andgood digestion are generally the fruit of thehardships rather than the "softships" of ex-istence. It is true that in moments of greatgladness the blood circulates quickly. Youfeel it going up in a big wave to the face in aninstant, and down to the feet in the next, asthough every drop were running and leapingand praising God. But excitement, even themost pleasurable, has its period of reactionexhaustion. Most of the days in the year arenot exciting, and those who are troubled with


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pale faces and cold extremities, who are chillybetvveen the shoulders and shiver over the firein bad weather, often wish they could discoversomething permanently good for the circula-tion. Exercise is of course the great correct-ive, but indoor exercise does not seem toremove the trouble. Who has not heard awoman remark over her sewing, ' 'I thought itwas a warm day when I was stirring aboutthis morning, but now it seems actually chilly."Even after the brisk run so highly recom-mended for chronic chilliness, there is sure tobe a rapid ebbing away of acquired warmth inthe resultant fatigue. What is wanted is somemethod whereby the blood may be induced toflow to the cold blue-veined feet as habituallyand abundantly as it runs to the usually over-heated head. Some form of friction-rubbing,beating, pinching, slapping or kneading-is thebest for this purpose, because it does not leaveone tired out, but rather rested and refreshed.It is the operator who is tired.

To lie on a couch swathed in blankets,from which now an upper limb, now a lower


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limb is withdrawn, pale and dead-lookin, andtucked back warm and glowing, and to havethe back, abdomen and chest scientifically anddelightfully belabored is to feel that your pro-fessional nurse has richly earnad your dollaran hour. But in the country, where dollarsand professional nurses are not very plentiful,it would seem as if delicate people might pro-fitably try self-treatment. Julius Caesar, weare told, had himself pinched for neuralgia.Had he been a less lofty personage he mighthave been reduced to the necessity of beinghis own pincher, and doubtless in that casethe pinching would have been as thoroughlydone. This sounds trivial, but there is morein it than at first might appear. One of thatnumerous class of women who are * 'just ableto drag themselves around, " found that gen-eral stagnation was apparently her greattrouble. She felt dull, heavy, lethargic, andeven a short walk left her very tired. Sheprocured a work on massage and practiced onherself a little at a time as she was able, alwaysin a well ventilated room and well warmed in


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winter. It has proved the very best of tonics,and she nows enjoys that sense of elasticityand aliveness in every fiber which indicates aclose approach to a state of ideal health.

Massage can never take the place of ac-tive exercise, but it fits one to enjoy and getthe later without danger of that great result-ant fatigue which is the bugbear of so manyweakly people. And in times of seeminglyover-work and exhaustion, "a good rubbmgdown" is certainly as beneficial to the humanframe as to the favorite race horse on the turf.


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MANICUHING.The professional 'cure or treatment of the

hands and nails. To attend to the hand andnails. Treating the blemishes of the formerand trimming and polishing the latter, etc.Quite an important side line m connectionwith the barber business is a manicuring andchiropodist department. This departmentshould be a room fitted up for that purposewith a few manicuring tools, which is all thatis necessary. A little practice will make youproficient and you will be surprised at theamount of money that you will make in thisline. There is always some one to operateupon and always some one who is wishing tohave work done if you have the tools to attendto same properly. We give you a number ofrecipes in this book which will enable you tocarry on the business successfully. AlbolineOil is used for the massage, rubbing and tak-ing off the blemishes preparatory to treatingthe nails. It is also well to have some glycer-ine and lemon juice to take off the spots on


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Barber Instructor and Toilet INIannal

the hands. The formulas found in this bookare known to be the best preparations for the artof manicuring. Some people are subject morethan others to the inconvenience and disfigure-ment of what are termed ' 'hang nails" whichwhen attempted to be torn off, causes Severnpain. Various methods are resorted to for re-moving these pieces of flesh. Some bite themoff, others cut and clip them, and others, againuse the nails of the opposite hand. The bestway is to loosen the membrane from the nailwith some blunt instrument and afterward witha pair of pointed scissors to clip away the rag-ged flesh. When tbe membrane is too long,that is, when it grows up too high on the nail,it should be pressed back with a blunt instru-ment and clipped off with a pair of curvedscissors. Every day when the hands are be-ine dried, the flesh at the base of the nailshould be pressed back. If necessary, lift itprevisously with an ivory manicure instrument.Care must be taken not to treat the the nailroughly or the risk of injuring the nail at theroot is insured.


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CHIROPODIST.

To remove Corns and Warts:Gum Camph - i ozChi. Hydrate - i DrChloroform - 20 Drops

Put small amount on each wart or corn; ifthe wart is larg"e, a lump about the size of apea will be required. Light this with a matchwhen it gets so hot that the person can't standit longer blow out then light again so on untilcorn or wart is blistered, then you can removeit with the thumb or finger, or pinch itout. After you have it out put on the follow-ing, which will heal it up at once:

Gum Champhor - i ozCrystal Carbolic Acid - i oz

This will heal any kind of an old sore. Tomake an anticeptic take one Dram of the aboveand 15 or 20 Grains of Crystal Cocaine. Thedoctor from which I obtained this formulasold it to the Dental Trade quite extensively.For the following receipt I paid $25. Prus-


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sian Tonic Luster and Dandruff Shampoo:Bay Rum - 8 ozAlchol - 8 ozTr Cantharides - li ozLavender Camp Spts. 2 ozAqua Ammonia - 2 oz

Mix use and rub until you have it damp.Use once daily until hair has stops falling outwhen the hair is falling out badly add tenGrains Tanic Acid.

The method used by regular Chriopodistis as follows in removing corns. Solution forsoftening corn before removing with the cornrazor:

Alcohol - li ozCarbolic Acid 70 DropsMenthal - 70 DropsCrystal Cocaine 20 Gr

After the corn is removed use the followingeither with cotton or a small camels hair brushthis forms a new skin or blister which protectsthe tender flesh until new skin grows to takethe place of the corn. If you should causethe corn to bleed (which you should not do if


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you are careful in taking it out) use Marsillosolution of Iron, which will immediately stopthe blood:

Colodian - 4 ozCarbolic Acid - i 1-2 ozSub. Either - 2 ozCanna Biscindica, - 2 oz

To remove or cure Proud Flesh use BurntAlum. For ingrowing toe nails use BrosicAcid. The best cure for Bunions is pureSkunk Oil.

Probably there is no little thing whichcauses so much annoyance and, in many casesactual pain, as corns upon the toes, betweenthe toes, or upon the bottom of the foot.

Many people suffer the pain and annoy-ance and other serious results from corns foryears, and after trying the many lotions,salves, ointments and many so-called eradicat-ors, without cure or relief give up the hope ofa final cure.


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PERSONAL MAGNETISM.Before closine this book of instructions

to barbers, 1 wish to make some observationson the subject of Personal Magnetism as avery valuable aid to the tonsorial artist, from asocial as well as a financial standpoint. Anyone who, but causually observes, knows thereis an immense difference in the attractive andrepulsive qualities of different individuals.Some draw to them a host of friends whomthey seem to absolutly control; others repeland arouse antagonism in most every one theymeet. The first named class of people areusually successful m every aim of life and theother class are alway wondering why they aresuch failures in every avenue of life. The dif-ference in these two classes is all due to thepresence or absence of that potent andsomewhat mysterious quality called pesonalmagnetism. Now what is personal magnet-ism? We answer, it simply means psychicinfluence or technically, hypnotic power.It is the influence of mind over mind.


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The person who posseses personal magnet-ism is consciously or unconsciously ^ ahypnotist. It may not be generally knownthat this power can be acquired and also thatany sane person can learn it, and no one canexercise it more potently than the barber, be-cause, by the very necessities of his professionis compelled to come in close physical contactwith his patrons. Manipulation about the headis part and parcel of hypnotic methods and noone in the world has a better chance to hyp-notice than the barber, and he can exercisethis power without his subject knowing it.Nine tenths of the people are subject to theinfluence of personal magnetism or hypnotismand in this progressive age no business mancan well afford to be without a scientificknowledge of it. A weak person whohas mastered this science can control personsmuch stronger than himself. The authorof this book is a graduate of one of the great-est psychic institutions in America, and hasgiven years to the investigation and practiceof personal magnetism and all hypnotic phe-


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nomena such as hypnotism for parlor enter-tainments, hypnotism for the stage, hypnotismfor the cure of all bad habits, hypnotism forthe cure of all diseases, hypnotism for dentalsurgery, hypnotism for surgery and as a thera-peutic agent, hypnotism for social, educationalor business advancement; also all about mag-netic healing; all about clairvoyance; how todiagnose diseases without asking a questionalso how to look into the present, past andfuture of any individual. In short how tomake a success of life in every particular.We will ask you to try the following experi-ment in proof of the reality of personal mag-netism. Suppose a person comes to you withthe headache. You will say to him I willcure you without medicine; all I ask of you isto close your eyes and let me stroke your headfor a few moments and your headache willcertainly pass away. Now stroke his headgently, backward and downward from themiddle of the forehead to the region of thetemples, while you will with all possiblemental energy that his headache shall cease,


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and ninty-nine cases out of a hundred youshould reheve or cure your patient. Try thisand then take a course in personal magnetism,and hypnotism and learn how to perform athousand very useful, profitable and instructiveexperiments. Will you do it? Our new bookof instructions gives you every advancedmethod of psychic science; and when youmaster its contents, which are plain and sim-ply given, go forth into the world and in thelanguage of the Emperor Constantine: ^ '*Inthis sign I conquor, " or in the words ofCeasar you can say: "Veni vidi vici". "Icame, I saw, I conquered." So barber if youwould succeed and in your business quicklyspeed, learn how to exercise control of otherminds, thus reach your goal.

^


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Of a roving disposition, I have traveled agreat deal, and in my travels have had a pen-chant for visiting barber shops in differentplaces. Noticing the different ways of doingthe same thing in different shops, and havebeen struck with the ease and expedition withwhich the work is disposed of in the ''progres-sive shop," and of the loss of time and "botch"work turned out in the "let-well-enough-alone"shop. Let-well-enough-alone" was a goodmaxim in the days of our forefathers, but inthese days of strong competition and the sur-vival of the fittest, I have noticed that the"let-well-enough-alone" shop is rapidly fallingbehind the shop which is constantly reachingout to "do better and more of it;" and how canone "do better and more of it" without adopt-ing the latest methods and up-to-date stylesin chairs, tools, workmanship, etc. Iobserved in many shops that I have visited re-cently, having had limited acquaintance witha number of them for years, that they havemade no strides in the march of progress,' butare still clineinfr to the old fashion break-


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back chairs, do work along the same oldfashioned lines, bragging about what theyhave been or what they used to do, kickingabout things that they cannot help, manytimes intemperate, spending money for drinkinstead of improving their shops and makingthings look better and brighter. They aresimply ' 'has beens" of the first water, andshould be out of the business to make roomfor the more up to date, industrious, reliable,sober and "want to do better" barber of themodern type. In concluding this little workon which we have spent much time and energygetting together the information which wehope will be of unlimited value to those forwhich it is intended, we trust that the read-ers will not, after readmg this little book,continue in the "let well enough alone;" butwill reach out, keeping pace with the marchof time, and that you will have been benefitedthrough our endeavors, and that it will bereceived in the same spirit that it was given-*' Peace on earth, good will to men."


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UP=TO=DATEFORMULAS

FOR

TOILET ARTICLES.


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BROWN DYE.This is the latest and greatest discovery ofthe age in dyes; is a perfect dye. BeautifulBrown and more durable than Black dye, andcontains only one solution.

Nitrate of Silver, - i ounceAqua Ammonia, - 2 ouncesSodium Carbonate, - i^ dramsDistilled Water, - 5 ounces

Dissolve silver in 4 ounces water and addammonia until entirely dissolved. Then dis-solve the soda in this solution and add waterto make 6 ounces. Let stand 48 hours anddecant or strain. Wash mustache or hair thor-oughly with good sea-foam or shampoo, re-moving all grease or dirt and apply.

"ONE SOLUTION BLACK DYE."Nitrate of Silver, - i ounceNitrate of Copper - 15 grainsWater of Ammonia - 2 ounces

Dissolve the silver and copper in 4 ouncesof distilled water, then gradually add thewater ammonia until the solution is re-dissolvedthen add water to make one-half pint.


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BROWN DYE.Pyrogallic Acid, - i ounceOlive Oil, - - i ounceLac. Sulphur, - i ounceRain Water, - 8 ounces

Mix, apply as other dyes.HARDENING RAZORS.Acetic Acid - i ounce

Water sufficient to immerse blade. Leavein both twenty-four hours.

CREAM OF ROSES.Glycerine, - li poundsWitch Hazel, - i pintBorsoek Acid, - 2 ouncesAlcohol. - - i pintJuice or one Lemon.

To be used for chapped face and hands,thicken with Gum Trag. disolved in warmwater to a desiree thickness. Color with car-mine red if desired.

BLONDINE.Peroxide of Hydrogen 8 ounces

Apply as other dyes.


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HAIR DYE.Dissolve 2 ounces of Pyrogollic Acid in a

mixture of Alcohol of 94% and 18 ounces ofDistilled Water. This is the Mordaunt, andthe Dye is prepared as follows: Dissolve iounce of Nitrate of Silver in 8 ounces ofDistilled Water and add 2 ounces of AmmoniaF. F. F". Both solutions should be kept inglass stopped bottles.

TO PREVENT BALDNESS.Cod Liver Oil, - 10 partsOnion Juice, - - 10 partsYolk of one Egg.

Mix, shake before using and apply once aweek. Gum Arabic may be used in place ofthe Yolk of Egg.

HAIR BLEACH.There is no formula given with the Hair

Bleach. Hydrogen Paroxide is the mostefficient bleach and forms the basis of most ofthe articles sold'for this purpose. The com-mercial article should be freely diluted beforeusing and the hair should be free from allgrease, etc. , by washing with warm suds.


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SHAMPOO.Boracic Acid,Sal. Tartar,Sulph. Ether,Rain Water,

2 ouncesI ouncei ounceI quart

BEILLIANTINE.Glycerine, - - i ounceAlcohol, - - 5 ouncesRose Water, - i ounceOil of Bergamot, - lo drops

FACE CREAM.Hydro Chlorate of Ammonia 4 partsDilute Hydro Chloric Acid, 5 partsLait Virginal, - 50 partsGlycerine, - - 30 parts

FRECKLE CREAM.Quince Seed, ^ ounceChloride Ammonia, - ^ ounceCologne, - - I ounceHot Water, - - i pint


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SHAMPOO MIXTUBE.Extract of Guilloys Fluid 14 partsCologne Water, - 13 partsGlycerine, - - 8 partsAlcohol, - - 30 partsRose Water, - 35 parts

SHAMPOO MIXTURE.Borax, - - i2 partsAmmonia Carbonate, - 3 partsTinct. of Cantharides, - 6 partsGlycerine, - - 12 partsWater, - - 450 partsAlcohol sufficient to make 1000 parts

TALCUM POWDERS. Talcum Powder, - 10 ounces

Rice Flour, - 10 ouncesZinc Oxide, - 5 ouncesOrris Root, powdeaed fine i ounce

Mix well and perfume with a mixture of' 'Oil Bergamot, Neroli and Ylang Ylang,


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DEPILATORY, to Remove Superfluous Hair.Barium Sulphide, - 2 partsZinc Oxide. - - i partStarch Powder, - i part

Mix and keep dry. When desired for usemake a paste of it with water and apply to thepart from which hair is to be removed, leaveon for ten minutes, then scrape off. Thisusually acts at once, but if necessary appl)' asecond time. The hair will grow again, butthis is the case with all safe depilatories.

CREAM OF ROSES.Gum Tragacanth, - i ounceWarm Water, - i quartOil Roses, - 5 dropsGlycerine, - 3 ouncesWitch Hazel - 3 ouncesAlcohol, - - 3 ounces

Put the Tragacanth in the water, let standover night or until jellied, then strain throughmuslin cloth and while warm add the otheringredients. Bottle, label and put away in acool place.


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CAKBOLINE HAIR GROWER.Promotes a healthy growth of hair on headswhere there is fine and thin hair.

Neutral Paraffin Oil. 8 ouncesTr. Cantharides, - 7 dramsEuphorbium. - 10 grainsOil Rosemary, - - 2 dramsOil Cassia, - 10 dropsOil Cloves, - 3 drops

Heat the Euphorbium and Cantharides ongentle heat for 2 hours, with the Paraffin Oil,then add the other oils, and bottle. Rub headthoroughly and apply once a day for threeweeks.

BAY RUM.Oil of Bay, - 240 grainsOil of Orange, - 16 grainsOil of Pimento, - 16 grainsAlcohol, - - 32 ouncesWater, - - 25 ounces

Dissolve the oils in alcohol and add thewater. Mix with 2 ounces of PrecipitatedCalcium Phosphate and filter.


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HAIR RESTORATIVE.Suofar of Lead, - i ounceBorax, - - i ounceLac. Sulphur - - i ounceAcqua Ammonia, - i ounceAlcohol, - - - I gill

These articles to stand mixed fourteen hoursthen add:

Bay Rum, - - i gillFine Table Salt, i table spoonSoft Water, - " 3 pintsEssence of Bergamot, - i ounce

Manner of using. When the hair is thin orfalling out, make two applications daily untilthis amount is used up, unless that hair hascome out sufficiently to satisfy you before thattime. Work it to the roots of the hair with asoft brush or the ends of the fingers, rubbingwell each time. For gray hair one applicaiiondaily is sufficient. It is harmless and will doall that is claimed for it.

FACE WASH.Rose Water, - ^ ounceGlycerine, - - i ounceFrench prepared chalk ten cents.


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Barber Tnstrsictor and Toilet Manual

EXTRACT OP MAGNOLIA PERFUME.Extract of Orange Flower 64 parts" " Rose - 128 parts

*' " Tube Rose 64 parts'' " Violet - 32 parts

Mix and to each quart of mixture add 10drops of Oil of Bitter Almonds and 4 drops ofOil of Lemon. The extracts used in this areall from the pomade of the flowers named.

BANDOLINE.A face balm of exquisite merit; is cooling,soothing and healing qualities are unsurpassedby any face preparation on the market.

Gum Trogacanth - 2 dramsRose Water, - 10 ouncesAlcohol, - 4 ouncesOtto of Roses - 15 drops

Macerate the gum in the rose water untildissolved, strain and add the alcohol to OttoRoses, then mix all and bottle; color red withfew drops Tincture Cochineal.


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Barb(X>r Instructor and Toilet Manual

HAIR TOinC.TInct. of Cantharades,Sulph. Quinine,Lac. Sulphur,Bay Rum,

Apply twice daily.

^ ounceI drachmi^ dracm8 ounces

DANDERINE.Hydrate Chloral,Bay Rum,

Apply daily for one week,week.

I ounce6 ouncesthen once a

SHAMPOO PASTE.Conti Castile Soap, - 4 ouncesPottasium Carb. - i ouncesRain Water, - - 6 ouncesOil of Lavender, - 5 dropsOil of Bergamont, - 10 drops

To the water add the soap in shaving andthen the pottassium. Mix until creamy, then^add perfumes. The addition of glycerineprevents hardening.


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BEAUTIFYING THE SKIN.For beautifying and taking wrinkles out of

the skin:Glycerine - - 3 ^^Parafin wax - 2-3

Mix and heat in a tin pan then add i ozBergamont, run off in tin can or glass botte.To be used after washing the hands and faceat night. Excellent for chapped hands or face.

NAIL POLISH.Tartaric Acid, - i dramTincture of Myrrh, - i dramCologne Water, - 2 dramsWater, - - 3 drams

Dissolve the acid in water; mix the tinctureof myrrh and cologne water and add to theacid solution. Apply with a bit of soft leather.

FURNITURE POLISH.Gum Shellac, - i ounceAlcohol, - - 8 ouncesLinseed Oil, - i ounceMix, apply with woolen cloth.


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DEPILATORY.Quick Lime, - i ounceGum Benzine, - i ounceWater sufficient to make a paste, Apply

and brush off in ten minutes.

BEST HAIR OIL.Pale Yel. Cotton Seed Oil, 8 ouncesBay Rum, - - 8 ouncesAdd perfume to suit.

BAY RUM.Soft Water, - 8 ouncesAlcohol, - - 4 ouncesOil of Bay, - 1-4 ounce

Add water to make one quart.HAIR RESORATIVE.

Lac. Sulphur, - 8 drachmsSugar of Lead, - 8 drachmsGlycerine, - 8 ouncesBay Rum, - 8 ounces

Four spoonsful of fine salt and a few dropsof Bergamot. Makes half gallon.


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BOQUET COSMETIQUE.Lard and mutton suet, carefully prepared

I lb. each, white wax, 6 oz., melt over a slowfire; essence of Bergamot, i oz. run intomoulds; wrap in tin foil; label and it is readyfor use.

TO CURL THE HAIE.Olive Oil, - - I poundOil of Organum, - i dramOil of Rosemary, i 1-4 drams

Mix, put small amount on hands, rub wellinto the roots of the hair.

RAZOR STROP PASTE.Take the finest superfine flour of emery,

nothing but the very finest will do, moistenwith Sweet Oil or Vaseline. Mix, put in smallboxes and it is ready for sale. There is nothingas good for your strops as elbow grease andlather.

VIOLET WATER, Finest Quality.Extract Violet, with 4 parts dilute Cologne

Spirits. Mix and bottle.


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TONIC FOR THE HAIR.A tonic for the hair is composed of

Glycerine, - 1-4 ounceCologne, - - 6 ouncesTinct. of Capsicum, 20 dropsTinct. of Spanish Flies, i^ drams

CAMPHOR ICE.For chapped hands or lips; can be used

after shaving. Spermacetic Tallow, i^ ozs.Oil of Sweet Almonds, 4 tea spoons. GumCamphor, 3-4 ozs, made fine, disolve overslow fire, stirring until disolved; pour intomoulds if for sale; paper and tin foil if foryour own use. Put in a tight box.

MAGIC LINIMENT.Cotton Seed Oil, - 4 ouncesPowd. Castile Soap, - i ounceSpirits of Turpentine, 2 ouncesStrong Ammonia Water, 4 ounces

Water sufficient to make one pint.This is a good seller when put up in nice-

ly labeled bottles. Try it.


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Barber Instructor arid Toilet Manual

TINEA TRICOPHYTIUA.(BARBERS lOCH.)

Characterized by itchincr erythematousredness and crop of vesicles followed by scalyformation. On scalp, hairs become brittle andbreak off. Stubble-like appearance. Onbody, spreads in fairy-ring-like manner. Onhead, split-pea or hazel-nut sized papules ortubercles appear. Hairs come out withoutpain. On nails, called Onycho-Mycosis. Fol-licles occasionally, pour out viscid mucusresemblingjuiceof the mistletoe-berry (Kerion)Contagious. Children of lymphatic tempera-ment. Tricophyton. In youth attacks scalp,or body. In adult life the beard. Fungusscales or scabs turn whitish yellow on additionof Chloroform.

Sepia and Tellurium (Ringworm). Merc,precip. ruber. Kali bich. Plantago. Tart,emet. ane Cicuta (Barber's Itch). CocculusIndicus, ect. Epilation. Shaving every otherday. Merc. corr. or Sulphurous acid lotion.Chrysophanic Cerate or White precipitateoint.


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TOOTH WASH.White Castile Soap,Glycerine,Water,Alcohol,Oil of Peppermint,Oil af VVintergreen,Oil of AniseOil of Cassia,

NAIL POLISH.Tartaric Acid,Tincture of Myrrh,Cologne Water,Water,

Dissolve the acid in the water; mix the tinc-ture ot myrrh and the cologne water and addto the acid solution. Apply with a bit of softleather.

MANICURE VARNISH.Paraffin Wax, - 60 grainsChloroform, - 2 ouncesOil Rose, " " 3 drops

After polishing the nails, apply the varnishand rub with chamois skin.

3 ounces5 il ounces2o ounces30 ounces

I dramI dramI dramI dramI dramI dram

2 drams3 drams


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TO CLEAN CARPETS.Good for taking- out grease spots, paint,

pitch, tar, and for cleaning clothing, gloves,hats, etc. This receipt has been sold all overthe country, and has been a great money mak-er. It can be used for anything that soap isused for, and for taking off grease from thehands of machinests and railroad men it hasno e(|ual. I give the exact formula as it wasreceived by me from one who paid $50.00 forit.

l\vo Packages 76 Powder,Shave up one bar of Ivory Soap,One tea spoon Pulverized Alum,Two tea spoon Borax.Tea spoon Salt,One gallon soft water,

Stir all together; boil over a slow fire 30minutes or until all the soap is thoroughlydisolved. Directions for using: Take a largepan or bucket half full of water have a largesponge; take a hand full of the preparationwork it into the sponge; make a lather until itfills pan or bucket, then use the lather for


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cleaning the carpet; when you use up thisamount of lather, work up more; washing thecarpet all over with the sponge, the same asyou would scrub a floor; let dry and it will beclean and look like new.

TO CLEAK WALL PAPER.A preparation for cleaning wall paper ismade of one quart of Rye flour, table spoon-ful of Plaster Paris; stir together; put in waterenough to make a thick dough. Bake untildone then it is ready for use. If it gets toohard wet with water; work it up like putty intodough balls. When you first use this, careshould be taken not to streak the paper. Thismakes old dirty wall paper look like new at avery small cost and not much labor.

CORN CURE.Soak a piece of copper in strong vinegar

for twenty-four hours. Pour the liquid off,and bottle. Apply frequently till the corn isremoved.


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(1900) barber instructor & toilet manual

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