[1906] megraw, robert h. - textiles, and the origin of their names

7/29/2019 [1906] Megraw, Robert H. - Textiles, And the Origin of Their Names

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TEXTILESAND THE ORIGINO F THEIR NAMES

BY

ROBERT H. MEGRAW


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^0 tUt memortj of mtj son^ wUo ttelped and tntouv*aged me in compiling andwriting this foaofc.


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JOSEPH MARIE JACQUARD


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FOREWORD]\ /IY reason and excuse for doing

the workThat men in thetextile industries of all kinds mightbe encouraged to learn the details oftheir business by study and research,thereby making themselves valuableand better men, and at the same time

more agreeable in business.


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Textiles and the Origin of Their Names.

N its fullest sense the word textile XLCXtilCBmeans every kind of stuff, nomatter of what material,

wrought in the loom or by handwhether the threads be spun from theproduce of the animal, vegetable ormineral kingdom; sheep's wool, goat'shair or flax, hemp, mallow, the fibrousfilling of pods, such as cotton, cactus,etc,, the glutinous threads of insectcocoons, as the silkworm, of gold, silveror other metalsall are textiles.Sheep were first bred for their wool TltTloolfor raiment, and not for food. At firstthe locks of wool torn from the sheep'sback by brambles were gatheredafterward shearing was thought of. Insome countries plucking by hand fromthe living animal was the manner ofprocuring the fleece ; however procured,the wool was, from the earliest records,spun by women from the distaff.Before weaving by hand was knownthe threads were plaited into cloth.


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GOttOfl The soft, wool-like fiber, which ispart of the fruit or seed of the cottonplant. All lands produce food vege-tables of some kind, but few grow inabundance those convertible into cloth-ing. Cotton is to-day the most impor-tant staple in commercial trade.The cotton plant does not appear to

have been known as one of generalutility before the discovery of America,and has been developed as such sinceabout the year 1 700.We read of cotton cloth in Chinese

records about 200 B.C. as being rareand precious ; special mention is madeof a Chinese emperor of A.D. 502,who ascended the throne arrayed in acotton robe. In the seventh centurythe plant was cultivated as a gardenflower. Not until the eleventh centurydid cotton become of use in China asan article of manufacture. Strange tosay, although China was the first tomanufacture cotton cloth, she has never

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been a source of supply to other coun- tXOttOlltries. The wall was too strong a pro-tective tariff. It remained for the South-ern United States to grow the plant inquantity. With negro slaves to cultivateand gather the crop, cotton soon becameking. Then we had Eli Whitney withhis invention of the "gin," in 1 792, forseparating the fiber from the seed. Itwas said of Whitney that he did morefor the power and progress of Americathan Peter the Great did for Russia'shistory and greatness.

Cotton is king; but the tariff of theUnited States is at war with him. Ifwe continue our prohibitive duties onother materials, we will eventually becompelled to consume most of what weproduce. There are other cotton-grow-ing countries, fast reaching a point inproduction where they will "give uspause."

All the Nile valley needs to enterthe cotton market of the world is the

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COttOtt black people south of her to help.What the black did for us he can dofor Egypt. The "Cairo to the Cape"railroad will help in bringing the work-ers to the field. When that day comesthe king will move his court, and wecan then find a market for the 65 percent, of our crop we cannot consume.

*5Uft The emission of the glands of a wormoriginally found in the mountainousprovinces of China, which bred andfed on the mulberry tree. The wormenvelops itself in this fine, thread-likesubstance, which will, when unwound,measure as much as four thousandyards. The thread hardens on expo-sure to the air, and is then convertedinto the different commercial classifica-tions for manufacturing, such as floss,organzine, etc.

From China, through India, up theRed Sea, across the Isthmus of Suez,silk can be traced. Where we learnof the first weaving, at Platasa, a city of

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ancient Greece, garments of silk were >llftworn to expose, and not to conceal theform. Then, as now, the desire forluxury was sometimes an incentive toinvention and enterprise.We next learn of the Romans paying

fabulous prices for silk to adorn theirfavorites. Aurelian told his wife hecould not allow her to wear a garmentmade wholly of silk, as its worth was thatof gold, for then its cost was poundfor pound with goldA.D. 1 20.Two Greek monks who spent many

years in China returned to Greece witheggs of the worm concealed in theirhollow walking-staves; presentedthem to their emperor ; when hatchedthe worms were distributed over Greeceand Asia Minor; soon the westernworld grew its own silk.The name silk is evidently from

the Assyrian seolc, which applied tothe people of that part of China wheresilk was first known. You will note

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A cloth of silk and cotton, silk and SDatltaSfolinen, silk and wool, or all linen inflowered or geometrical designs fordrapery or table covering; takes itsname from Damascus, the chief city ofSyria, where it was first made.A fine linen cloth made first in Cam- CaittbdCbrai, France. The old Flemish namefor the city being Kameryk.A veiling net, made first in Gaza, in (5aU3e

Palestine.

Solid-color woolen cloth, for table 3Bai3Cand wall covering, made largely in thecity of Baza, in Spain.A stout, cotton fabric, made with H)ilTlitP

cords or welts lengthwise of the piece;used first as furniture covering. Thename is from Damietta, a town in Egypt,where the cloth was originated.An untwilled, pick-and-pick weave, S)ncft

cotton on linen cloth of lighter weightthan canvas; used for clothing, and in

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2DUCfe some weights for sail cloth ; first madein Torque, a town in Normandy, andderives its name from its resemblanceto a duck's skin.

3Blftnfct Every one knows what a blanket is,but how many know it gets itsname from Thomas Blanket, a famousclothier, who made blankets in Englandabout the year 1 840 ?

IDlapcr Figured cotton or linen tissue ; getsits name from the Greek diaspron,meaning figured.

QCXQC Even-twilled cloth of wool, mohairor cotton; derives its name from xerga,a Spanish name for a peculiar woolenblanket or wrap.

IDdVet From the Italian vellutewoollyfeeling to the touch, as a woolly peltor hide ; this word applies to the cover-ing of a deer's horns, and seems to takeroot in the furry feeling to the touch.True velvet is made wholly of silk.

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Textiles and the Origin of Their Namgs.

2)C"" was the staple of a dress goods stock.laiUC It was made in solid colorsred, yel-

low, blue, salmon, pink, green and pur-ple. In the old days of general jobbing,if your prices on delaines and Tabbyvelvet were right, you sold the shopper.

!BaU" From the Indian bandannato bindbatina or tie. In dyeing, the cloth is tied in

knots when dipped. This gives theclouded effect seen in the original ban-danna handkerchiefs.

ColOt0 Color is concentrated light rays. Theprimary colors are red, yellow and blue;the secondaries green, orange and pur-ple. By mixing blue and yellow weget green. Red and yellow give orange,and red with blue yields purple. Wethen have the tertiary or third results.Mix orange and purple to get russet oryellow brown. Orange and greenmake citron or lemon. Purple andgreen result in olive.

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What a warmth there is in red. JBftCCtOtNaturally, in the dull months of winter, COlOCSthis color is in favor.

Blue conveys a feeling of coolness,therefore you find it in favor for sum-mer wear.

Yellow, the lightest and purest ofthe primary colors, is the most trying ofthem all. By contrast it is the mostvivid, and in using it too much care can-not be taken in getting the proper shade.

Spotless white was, to the ancientBritons, symbolic of sunlight and holi-ness, and was the dress of the Druidpriest.

Light blue was the color of the garbof the singer or poet.

Green, the livery of the wood andfield, was the dress of the teacher ofnatural history and medicine.Queen Boadicea of Britain, being

the patroness of all the early arts andsciences, wore a motley gown, checkedor plaided in all the colors, which was

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iBffCCtOf no doubt the origin of the Scotch plaidCOlOr0 of to-day.

" It is not what a man outwardlyhas or wants that constitutes his hap-piness or misery. Nakedness, hunger,distress of all kinds have been cheer-fully endured, and even death itself.It is the feeling of injustice that is in-supportable to all men. No man canbear it or ought to bear it."

CARLYLE.flDcrCCf" The treatment of cotton to similarizet3&tl0n silk. John Mercer, a cotton printer

of Manchester, England, applied theprocess to fabrics for printing. Eng-lish-speaking people have since identi-fied the process with his name. Fromwhat we can learn, the Germans knewof the treatment for hosiery yarns longbefore Mercer used it. We haveheard more of the idea since the Ding-ley tariff came in force as a cheapenerof fancy wool and silk stuffs. The

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process is simple. The yarn or cloth flDcrCCr*in the piece is treated with a bath of 13311011hydrate of soda, solution about 20Baume, for a length of time sufficientto saturate. While in the bath thereis a shrinkage of about 10 per cent.When taken from the bath it is neces-sary to stretch the warp to its originallength. This can be done while it isstill wet, or after it has dried by sprin-kling with pure cold water whilestretching. This imparts a bright lus-ter, or, in other words, plates the yarnor cloth, which, when finished, takesa high, silky face.

Yarn-dyed cotton cloth in stripes (5l!t0"or checks ; originally of Indian make. i)H1T1Glasgow, Scotland, took up the makingof the fabric on a large scale. Thesimplicity of its construction led to itbeing one of the first fancy cottonsmade in America. We now have somany new lines of cottons called ging-hams that the distinctive feature of the

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(BittQ" name is almost lost. We trace it toufltTl Gingamp, a town in Brittany, where

the cloth was made for umbrella covers.See how easy it was to derive the slangEnglish " Gamp" for an umbrella.

XPtnOtS" Wool, combed, in the fleece insteadtCb of carded, into parallel fibers, the light-

ness and firmness of which was suit-able for making the finer grades ofyarn. When William the Conquerorcame to England he found the peopleof a certain place combing the fleece.He had worsted the people in battle,named the place Worstead, and theyarn-making took the name of the place.Worstead, in England, has long beenknown for its fine wool yarns.

Htft= Richard Arkwright, made SirWd0bt Richard by George III in 1 786, in-vented the spinning frame in 1 767.He was born in Lancashire in 1 732,had very little education, learned thetrade of barber and hair-dresser, sold

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a chemical hair-dye, saved a little Hrfe"money, in his spare time studied the WUODtworkings of the cotton manufacturersof his district. By close applicationhe brought his spinning device to apractical shape. You can understandhe was not long in the barber-shopafter that. It appears he had not muchtime to devote to other inventions, asall his after life seems to have beentaken up in preventing others stealinghis invention.

Justice is supposed to be the basisof all law.

Heavy woolen cloth, woven with flDeltOttfast back, fulled or shrunk, used forovercoating. The name is from Mel-ton, a town in Leicestershire, England.A cloth of same general appearance flDCltOlV

as melton, of a lighter weight, for CttCwomen's wear.

In order to prophesy, one mustknow. To know, one must have had

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experience. To be a prophet for profit,keep a careful memorandum of eachseason's features. Fashion's wheelturns with every renewal of yourbodily structure, or, as we are told,once every seven years.

ZibcUUC Hairy-faced cloth of plain weave.Zibeline is French for the small fur-bearing animal known as the sable,found in Siberia. The fur of thezibeline is the mourning fur in thegarb of royalty.

That man best controls others whobest controls himself.

HSptltd" A fine corded fabric of wool or silk,lln showing the cords woven close to-

gether, appearing as if lined with apin-point. The application is fromEpingle, French for pin.

If a high protective tariff is a benefitto home industries, why not exclusion,and with it perfection of trade con-ditions }

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Fine linen or cotton lawn. Batistewas a Frenchman, who first made thecloth.

"Reading maketh a full man, con-fidence a ready man, and writing anexact man." BACON.

N. B.Keep a careful record.Coarse woolen cloth of the plainest

weave of the yarn in its natural, un-dyed color. The name is literal, spunand made at home.Make of your business a mistress,

and love her for herself.Applied to plain or twilled mixtures,

woven of undyed natural wool yarns.The French spinners found that thestrongest yarns were those of the un-dyed wool; sometimes two or moreshades or tones are spun into onethread. The name is French for strong.To love your business is to have

one of the ingredients of success.

Batisteor

Baptiate

Homespun

Digour-eouy

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fl>ru-nelle orpru-nella

Cbeviot

flDull

The others are knowledge and appli-cation; they follow the first.

Fine twilled worsted cloth of awiry texture. Originally made forgaiter or shoe tops. The name pru-nelle is French for plum. Plum-colorwas most in favor in the cloth forshoe tops.

It was estimated in the seventeenthcentury it took 10,000 men to converta ton of wool into cloth in a day. Wedo it now with machinery and1,000 men.

Rough-finished twilled cloth, eitherin solid colors or mixtures. The woolis from a breed of mountain sheep ofthe Cheviot Hills between Englandand Scotland.

Past success furnishes both the meansand motion for future progress.

Soft cotton muslin of fine quality,made first in India, later in Switzer-

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land. The name in Hindoo is mal fIDUllmal, meaning soft, pliable.

Live your business life alone, orwith those you can trust. Beware ofthe stranger who wants to entertainyou. "Nothing for nothing." "Rienpour rien," the French say, means agreat deal. Know your associates.You will learn more of your businessand have less to regret.

Cloth of undyed, or natural wool. ffcclQCTrue beige is a plain pick-and-pickweave. Cashmere beige is twilledcloth of same order. The name isthe French word for "natural."

Twilled cotton cloth of a brown IftbaMdust color, first used for men's clothing,in India. Taken up by the Anglo-Indian army for uniform cloth. Theword khaki is Indian for earth, ordust-colored.

Rough, unfinished fabric of wool or Qyoee'bcotton and wool, usually of yarn of

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ZTVPCCfc) two or more shades, originally theproduct of the weavers on the banks ofthe river Tweed in Scotland.What a man gives out, not what he

keeps, determines his appearance inthe eyes of the world. Beauty, bright-ness, color consist not in what a thingkeeps, but in what it gives out. Awell-known law of optics teaches usthat a thing is seen not in the colorwhich it takes in and keeps, but inthat color which it gives back again.The thing we call red is the one whichis, in one sense, blue; that is, it takesin the blue rays and keeps them foritself, but gives back the red in color.

Gold has kept all the green rays,and gives back the yellow, so we seeit as yellow. The object we callblack takes in every ray of light, andkeeps them all for itself, so we giveblack the mark and sign of evil. Theobject we call white keeps nothingof the sun's rays, but gives them

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all out again, and we say of white,it symbolizes all purity and good.

Coarse, heavy cloth, with curly sur- 3fret3eface, made first of lamb's wool. Thename is from the French Friser, tocurl.

Measure thy life by loss instead ofgain; not by the wine drunk, butby the wine poured forth. For life sstrength standeth in life's sacrifice,and who gives the most has the mostto give.

Is the yarn or thread running length- XPdlatpwise of the pieee. J^

" Run if you like, but try to keepyour breath.

Work like a man, but don't beworked to death." HOLMES.

Applied to a twilled, unsheared- JfOUlCface cloth ; that is, the face appearsto be unsinged, and shows the woolly

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JfOUlC roughness in a slight degree. Thecloth, when woven in the gray, isfulled or shrunken in width, by soak-ing in soapsuds and passing it, whilewet, through holes of different sizesin a steel plate. The holes aregraded to give different percentagesof shrinkage. The name is fromFouler, French, to full or shrink."A man's character is like his shad-

ow, which sometimes follows andsometimes precedes him, which is oc-casionally longer, occasionally shorterthan he is."

CftSfo" Cloth made of the hair of thentCCC cashmere goat. The face of the fab-

ric is twilled, the twills being unevenand irregular because of unevennessof the yarn. Cashmere yarn was firsthandspun. The cloth was originallymade as the groundwork for BrocheIndia shawls. The sheep, for theirwool, were grown in the Vale ofCashmere in the Himalaya Mountains.

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"Some men, like pictures, are fitterfor a corner than a full light."

-SENECA.Is the yarn or thread crossing the "flXHeft or

piece and binding the warp from sel- JfillillQvage to selvage.

"It is another's fault if he be un-grateful, but it is mine if I do notgive. To find one thankful man I willoblige many that are not so."

SENECA.A fabric woven of the wool of the flDCtlflO

Merino sheep, twilled on both sides,the twills being uneven. Merino wasthe hand-woven origin of cashmere.The standard twills of cashmere and

henriettas are accepted as followsFrench, from 12 twills, up or down,regulates the range price ; Germanhenriettas are usually rated from 1 7twills. This grading is merely to giveprices for whole ranges of twills, suchas a line of blacks, from 12 to 20

Gwill0

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{VPUl$ twills in any weight. The count oftwills will not compare different makes,as the weight has all to do with thevalue. The writer saw a piece ofcashmere at the Paris Exposition of1889, which counted 100 twills. Byno counting of the twills could its valuebe estimated.

"As the sword of the best temperedsteel is the most flexible, so the trulygenerous are most pliant and courteousto their inferiors."

Gftft)C& Differs from worsted, in that it isXKHOOl drawn out into fibers on an appliance

called a card, which may be a leatherband fitted with steel hooks or points,or a board studded with metal points.Carding is applied to the softer woolsfor cashmere and flannel weaving.

He who knows not and knows notthat he knows not, is a foolavoidhim.

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Twilled wool fabric in which the IDcitC'twills are very even and regular, may U8ttbe single or double twill. The clothis milled or cropped in finishing.The name is from Venice.He who knows not and knows that

he knows not, is simpleteach him.C. Ahnert, of Paris, has received

a patent for a method of imparting asilky gloss to cotton yarn or clothwithout submitting to tension. Heclaims tension is unnecessary if thecotton is well boiled in a soap solutionat 122 F., and put through an alkalibath of a concentration of 25 to 35Baume at a temperature of 86 to104 F. The cotton is taken out inabout 2^ hours, rinsed with water, towhich acid may be added. It is thenbleached.

He who knows and knows not thathe knows, is asleepwake him.33


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IDOCSMtt Of the broadcloth range, made withshiny-napped face, soft finish, as thepelt of a doe.

He who knows and knows that heknows, is a wise manfollow him.

3Bt0ftfc" Plain-faced cloth of wool or wors-ClOtfo ted, with twilled back. Originally

made in England in 2 7-inch for men'swear. The name is literal, and isnow applied to the plain-faced, wide-width cloths for women's wear.

3LCU0 This name first applied to fabricswoven in stripes of open-lace effect incotton. It is now used to designate theopen-mesh stripes and checks in silk,linen and mohair. The name is de-rived from the French linon, forlinen lawn.

IflHnUCl The first stage and simplest formof weaving wool cloth, usually pre-sented in an almost unfinished state.The weave may be plain or twilled.

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The fabric is finished by pressing, no jflaiWelother treatment being necessary.Name from the French flannelle.

" He who can, at all times, sacri-fice pleasure to duty, approachessublimity."

A plain, even thread weave of mo- BUttttttQhair, wool or worsted, used most formaking flags. The name seems to bederived from the German, bunt, mean-ing variegated or gay-colored.

Was first a bright-colored, checked flDafcra0or striped, plain-faced cotton andsilk fabric, made in Madras, India,for sailors' head-dresses. The namehas fallen on cotton ginghams, shirt-ings, etc., probably because of thecolorings.

Choose your pleasures in the lineof rest and recreation ; leave out theexpensive and straining kinds.

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Similar to a poplin; made of hard- J6rn=twisted worsted filling and cotton PCC90warp. Was made a success in the VL-lOlDearly seventies of the last century bythe Empress Eugenie of France. Em-press cloth was a staple in all well-regulated dress goods lines in 1 873.

"Mens sana in corpore sano," asound mind in a sound body. Keepyour body clean and sound by ju-dicious exercise, and your mind willbe in working order.

A manufacturer of shoddy was be- 2>b0bfr\)fore the Ways and Means Committeeduring the construction of the Dingleytariff. On being asked what shoddywas, replied: "Anything longenough to have two ends." He alsosaid he sold his shoddy to almost allthe wool manufacturers, and furtherstated that as much as 80 per cent,was used in making some so-calledwoolen cloths. Shoddy is made from

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5bObb)j) old woolen stockings or rags, shreddedor picked by hand or machine, torender the yarn or threads suitable forspinning into yarn a second time; orto give a fiber that can be woven orfelted in with a wool or cotton warp.The name is literal, meaning, in itsadverbial sense, cheap, make believe."We usually judge others by our

own standard ; and although we in-dulgently forgive our own shortcom-ings in them, we condemn them harshlyfor lack of our own special virtues."

BALZAC.flDOrCCTl Heavy mohair, cotton or silk and

cotton cloth, with watered or moireface. The making of moreen is in-teresting. The undyed cloth is placedits length of piece in a trough in lay-ers, from two to as many layers aswill take the finish, which is impartedto the cloth by placing between thelayers of cloth sheets of manila paperthe contents of the trough are then satu-

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rated with water; a heavy-weighted flDOreeilroller is then passed over the wettedpaper and cloth. The movement ofthe roller gives the cloth a wateredface. It can then be dyed and re-finished. If you examine moreen youwill find the design or marking differ-ent on every piece. Moreen wasmade for upholstery and drapery useat first; is still used to cover churchseat cushions. It was found to givea rustle sound or "froufrou," similarto silk, so was taken up for under-skirts. The name is probably frommoire, French for watering.

"A man can shine in the secondrank who would be totally eclipsed inthe first." -BALZAC.

This name has been applied to a paiMCrange of satin-faced velvet or silkfabrics which show a high luster,which is produced by pressure. Theword Panne is French for plush.

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Ibetv*riettaClotb

Gartans

A twilled cashmere of light weightand high finish, originally made withsilk warp and wool filling in York-shire, England. This name is nowapplied generally to all the cashmereweaves and weights. The name wasgiven in honor of Henrietta Maria ofEngland, Queen of Charles I. Thesilk-warp, hand-woven fabric wasfirst produced about the year 1 660.When the all-wool cloth was promotedin the United States, the name waswrongly thought to have been takenfrom a play popular in 1884.

Eleventh Commandment: "Mindyour own business."

Plaids of the Scottish clans wornby men in the Highlands of Scotlandas a scarf, from the shoulder underthe arm ; each clan had a distinctivetartan or plaid. The name wasadapted from the Spanish Tiritana,a thin woolen-checked cloth.

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Help a weak man and you createan enemy ; help a strong one and yougain strength.

Heavy, coarse linen cloth, gummed 3BUCRand finished to a firm, stiff texture; ^amthe fabric was first made in Bokhara,Tartary, as a foundation for a specialfloor covering, and the name is de-rived from Bokhara.

There are men who have beenhelped who wish, from pure hatred,for the downfall of the one who aidedthem, even should his downfall meantheir own ruin.

Satin-faced cloth, woven with fine GjOlCXlline or stripe running lengthwise ofthe piece ; usually in solid colors andpiece-dyed. Soleil is French for sun,and applies to the brightness of thefinished cloth.

When you have learned to give noheed to those who do not heed you;

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when you have learned that, no matterhow high a man's head, his feet are ona level with your own ; when youhave learned not to put confidence inthe warm days of winter, in the sleepof your enemies, or the flattery offriends, then are you rich in learning.

(Tnn\>3$ Coarse, plain weave of hempenyarn; the name is from canabis, thetechnical name of hemp.

Carelessness will work as muchharm as malice.

>att@" Plain fabric of wiry worsted orIter mohair yarn, closely woven, with a

rough-finished surface. Sanglier isFrench for wild boar, the hairy, wirycloth resembling the coat of the animal.The most utterly lost of all days is

that inwhich we have not once laughed.dftcnii" Originally a plain, open-work net-fcittC like fabric of silk, mohair, cotton or

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not to slip on the warp ; were called (BfCnft 1iron frame. Now we have grenadines OltlCin jacquards and set patterns. Thename is an adaptation of Grenada.

"I don't believe that harmlesscheerfulness and good humor arethought greater sins in heaven thanshirt collars are." DICKENS.

Plain weave of silk and wool, or (5l0tt8silk and cotton ; first made for um-brella covering. The name is literal,meaning bright, praiseworthy.

Mr. Carnegie observes, "There isvery little success where there is littlelaughter."

Twilled cloth of silk and wool ; SultHflCfinished in the rough, not singed orsheared. The name is from Sultana,the first wife of the Sultan.

Render your account to God. CallGod what you pleaseSupreme Be-

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ing, Grand Master of the Universe,the good that is in yourselfwhatyou will, only render an accountask yourself how you stand ?

CrCpCOt Thin, gauzy fabric, woven in loose,CnipC even threads of silk, heavily sized orgummed, crimped or craped in thedrying. Crape was first used in blackonly as a badge of mourning ; it isnow, however, an accepted dress fab-ric, made in colors and white, and ofmany materials. The name signifiesto crimp or crape with a hot iron.

Who lives without folly is not sowise as he thinks.

CbCnillC Cloth of a fuzzy or fluffy facewoven of cotton, silk or wool ; usedsometimes for dress goods ; more gen-erally for curtains and table covers.Chenille is French for caterpillar,which insect the single thread of thecloth resembles.

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The basis of the metric system of flDetremeasurement, equivalent to 39 37/100inches.

Long before the oldest book in the XittCItworld was written the Egyptians cul-tivated flax for its fiber. We readand get the first idea of its utility inthe Bible, Exodus 9th C, 31st:"And the flax and the barley weresmitten ; for the barley was in the earand the flax was boiled." Note thebeautiful texture and fineness of thelinen winding cloths of the Egyptianmummies. Ages before the Frenchmade cambric at Cambrai, before theLowlanders made lawn, Egypt hadfine linen cloth. To-day linen is thefabric chosen when firmness of weaveis desired, more particularly wherewhite is used, as in shirt bosoms, col-lars, napery, etc. The French, in thetime of Napoleon I, made great prog-ress in the spinning and weaving offlax, which they used in making fine

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XitlCn sheer fabrics for women's and men'swear. The name linen is from theFrench linon, equivalent to Englishlawn. Most of the French weaversused flax for the lighter lawn textures.

Eltna Cloth, double twilled from left toright diagonally ; first made in blackonly as a special mourning fabric. Thename is from the Egyptian, as appliedto a mourner or singer at funerals.

(IDOirC Watered design of any materialfirst made in silk. Moire is Frenchfor watering.

2>Wi00 From Switzerland, where the plainSwiss net and figured cambric is aspecialty in the St. Gall district.

Business is sensitive ; it goes onlywhere it is invited, and stays onlywhere it is well treated.

%HWn Fine linen cambric, used now forwomen's dress ; first made to com-bine with silk and drap d'ete for

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clerical garb. The name is from XaWULaon, a place near Rheims, France,where lawn was extensively made.

Plain, sheer, soft-finished fabric of CbtttOHsilk or cotton. The name applies tothe finish, and is the French wordfor rag.

Applied to cotton cords is a mis- piquenomer. Pique was originally wovenin diamond-shaped designs to imitatequilting. The name is French forquilting.

Soft wool cloth of the cheviot order, H)|^O0UCwith teazled face ; made from the woolof the vicuna, a South American ani-mal of the camel species. Vigogneis the French name for the animal.

French name for bolting or sifting ]t&-cloth ; made of silk for sifting flour ; mine Orapplied to mesh or net weaves in fiSto'America; accorded a special duty inour tariff when made of cotton.

mine

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flDOftaiC The hair of the Angora goat. Fab-rics made of this hair are called mo-hairs. The name is from the Arabic,mukay-yar, cloth of goat's hair.

ZTcrr\> A pile fabric, with the loops of theClOtD pile drawn through a foundation anduncut. Turkish toweling is the orig-inal terry. The name is from theFrench, tirer, to draw or pull.

Study the errors of others and profitthereby ; fools laugh at them and for-get, and are forever fools.

Cb&lliC Originally challis. Soft wool cloth,plain, printed or figured. Challis, asfirst made, was of silk and wool fig-ured in small design. The name isfrom the Anglo-Indian shalee, a softcotton cloth.

Could any tariff law have made forthis country a Morse, a Whitney, anEdison or a Bell ?

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Yarn-dyed linen or cotton cambric.The name is from Cambrai, the Frenchtown where chambray was first made,to be used for sunbonnets.

Cfoam=bra$

A fine sheer fabric of cotton or silk, r^ait-Organdie is French for book muslin. vtC

Corded or ribbed cloth; made orig- Ipopltflinally of silk and worsted. Doublepoplins have double warp and fillingIrish poplin, single-warp silk andworsted filling ; Norwich poplin, ofsilk and linen. The name is French,popeline, to designate the weave. Thecloth was first made in Avignon,France, about A.D. 1 500 ; was takenin 1775 to Ireland by the FrenchProtestant refugees. Ireland has sinceexcelled in making it.

"Be not so severe that you areblamed for it, nor so gentle, that youare trampled on for it."TURKISH PROVERB.

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COVCrt Heavy twilled cloth in natural,undyed shades ; used in England formen's overcoats, worn while riding tocovert in fox-hunting.

(BnitlitC The name of a weave resemblingthe markings of granite stone.

jHC" Designs on any kind of fabric wovenQUHtO on a loom having a chain of cards

through which pass wires or cords,the lifting or dropping of which raisesthe warp threads to allow the passingof the shuttle for the weft. JosephMarie Jacquard, the perfecter of thecard appliance to looms for the weav-ing of flower or irregular designs, wasborn in Lyons, France, July 7, 1 752.He inherited two old looms and asmall sum of money from his father.Working on the looms he made prog-ress toward the perfection of hisidea. He was called to Paris in1801 by Napoleon I, and given amedal for his invention, which did

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the work of one man less per loom. 3&C"The appliance was perfected in 1 804. QUarbJacquard died in 1 834. The city ofLyons erected a beautiful statue inmemory of his great service to thesilk-weaving industry.

Dress contains two codes of moral-ityprivate and public. Attentionis the duty we owe to others ; clean-liness that which we owe to our-selves.

Printed cotton cloth; large, many- (J)|nt0colored designs, used in Westerncountries for furniture covering. TheHindoos wear it as a body drapery.Chints is the Hindoo word meaningvariegated.

Knit cloth of fine combed wool; ^CVQC^made first in the Island of Jersey for ClOtl)fishermen's wear; sometimes madewith fleeced back. What we callstockinette is Jersey cloth.

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patlJMTl8 The plain, simple weave of thestraw plaiter ; the weave of the Pan-ama hat makers.

"Experience is the best teacher;only the tuition fees are heavy."

Sicilian Heavy-weight cotton warp, mohair-filled cloth. Sicilienne, the propername, was made in the Island ofSicily as a heavy-ribbed, all-silk stuff.

HullC Open-work silk net ; made on thepillow as lace, by the young womenof Tulle, France.

"Our lesser misfortunes come fromthinking too well of our fellows ; ourgreater from thinking too well of our-selves." SETH LEE.

36tOCftbC Raised figures on a plain ground.Early writers were wont to brocadeor ornament their work with flour-ishes.

"Dissipation is a lottery in whichthere are no prizes."

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A kind of brocade, used for drap- BtTOCatelery and upholstery; usually raisedwool figures on a silk ground.

Cotton muslin, with little dressing percaleand slightly finished face; whenprinted, used for shirting. The originof the name is doubtful, and is sup-posed to be North of England dialect,meaning long cloth, sold by the ell.

Highly finished and dressed per-cale; sold in solid colors for lining.

"The world o'erflows its cup of woe,Each heart has felt the knife of pain ;But I would have my soul to knowThat all is best, that God doth reign."

_R. W. GILDER.Hard-twisted worsted twills, either

solid or mixed colors. The nameis from the hard-twisted fiber lash of awhip.

Plain silk cloth, sold as dressgoods ; originally made for handker-

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JfOUlatb chiefs only. The name is French forsilk handkerchief.

A thousand misfortunes are lessaffecting than a single kindness.

(31&CC Plain, lustrous silk, yarn-dyedwarp of one color, weft of another.The name is applied to all fabricshaving two tones. Glace is Frenchfor icy, having an icy appearance.

CniCfclC Weave, showing the effect of cracksin glass, china, etc.; sometimes appliedto an imitation crepon.

(BftlfttCR Blue and white striped cotton orlinen twill ; used for children's sailorsuits. Galatea was a sea nymph inGrecian mythology.

"Laugh and the world laughs withyou,

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Thin cotton fabric, heavier than JaCOflCtcambric. If properly made one sideis glazed. Jaconet is derived fromthe French, Jaconas.

Cotton or woolen sheer cloth hav- flMuiTlC"ing raised dots or figures in relief on ti0plain ground. The design shows afeathery effect, as in embroiderytambour. The name is French forthis kind of embroidery, and is derivedfrom plume, French for feather.

HOPE."The rainbow to the storms of life;The evening beam that smiles the

clouds away,And tints to-morrow with prophetic

ray." byron.Any cloth treated to make water-

proof by the Cravenette Company.Mr. Craven, of Bradford, England,copyrighted a process of treating withparafine and naphtha, and gave hisname to it.

Craven-ette

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CbCnC Sometimes applied to glace silk, orcotton two-toned effects. The nameis literal, meaning shiny, bright, hav-ing a sheen.

"Originality is a thing we con-stantly clamor for, and constantlyquarrel with." CARLYLE.

ntbfC Design of weave in stripes orwaves, showing shaded effect fromdark to light in same stripe. Ombreris French for shaded.

"If the best man's faults werewritten on his forehead it wouldmake him pull his hat over his eyes."

GAELIC PROVERB.CtCPOU Large designs in figured crepe.

The name applies to the crispiness ofthe finish. FrenchCrepon, to makecrisp.

SOUtflC The largest designs of crepon showa raised or puffed appearance. Souffleis French for puffed up.

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Applied to hairy, rough-faced 3B0UtrCweaves ; we have Bourre Souffle,hairy crepons. Bourre is French forhairy.

Herringbone weaves show bars CbCVCOIlmeeting at an angle, as the markingson the sleeves of military uniforms,or the bones of a herring.

Cut cashmere is a cashmere weave, COUpUfCshowing lines cut through the twillslengthwise of the piece. Coupure isFrench for cut through.

Cashmere twill on one side or faceof cloth ; poplin cord on reverse.

"Call not that man wretched who,Whatever ills he suffers, has a

child to love." southey.Cashmere, or worsted twilled-face

cloth, with cords woven in the warps,are imitation of corduroy for ridinghabits. Bedford, a town in Eng-land, gives its name to the weave.

Gasb-mereDouble

BebforbGorb

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CotC In France, corded cloth for ridingCbCV&l costumes, such as Bedford cord, is

called cote cheval. The applicationbeing through cheval, horse ; cote,ribbed or lined.

HUTIC French measure equaling forty-fiveinches, used in folding silk in puttingup in pieces. Superseded in measur-ing by the metre.

JEW Measure formerly used for cloth.In England forty-five inches, Scot-land thirty-seven inches ; rarely usednow, as the thirty-six-inch yard isthe accepted measure.

l^Htb Thirty-six inches in America. TheEnglish yard is a standard establishedby the government, indicated by twomarks on a metal rod embedded inthe masonry of the Houses of Par-liament. The American yard is sup-posed to be 1-100,000 longer thanthe English, but is not fixed by gov-ernment standard.

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French measure the one hun- Ccntldredth part of a metre. tUCtte

"Good breeding shows itself mostwhere, to an ordinary eye, it appearsthe least." ADDISON.

Weave showing the raised lines IbOttCV)"of the bee's comb or nest. Called COlttbNid d'Abeille in French, meaningbee's nest.

Open mesh weave of coarse cot- TTarlc-ton, used mostly in fruit packing; Jjmsometimes for dress and drapery.The name is from Tarlantanna,Milanese for coarse weave of linenand wool.

Twill-faced cloth with cord or cut ^^hog-across the warp. The name is from tODOlSevastopol, the Russian fortified towncaptured by the English and Frenchin 1855.

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lEOlt 8" Sheer cloth of silk, silk and wool,CtinC Of or silk and cotton, woven in fine cordHeOliatl effect From tne Greek Aeolus, God

of the Winds, comes the name. Ap-plied in the sense of a light zephyrweight.

(BnilftC Geometrical designs, puffed up inweave, as the markings of a waffleiron. Gaufre is French for waffle.

360UClC Curled hair or wool, woven in anycloth to show the curl, is boucle.The word is French for curl.

"A man has no more right to sayan uncivil thing than to act one ; nomore right to say a rude thing toanother than to knock him down."

JOHNSON.

Jfloren-tine

Heavy twilled mohair fabric formen's wear. Sold largely to Italyand Spain. The name is from Flor-ence, Italy.

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COft)U" Heavy cotton corded stuff, usedT0\) originally for servants' livery. The

name is from the French, Cord-du-royking's cords. The king's out-door servants wore the cloth.

"The manners which one neglectsas trifles are often precisely that bywhich men decide on you favorablyor the reverse."

$e\tFabric made by rolling or pressing

a pulpy mass or mixture of hair orwool into a flat mat. The name isfrom the process. To felt, is to mixand press into shape.

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Originally a hand-knitted woolen XTflCOtfabric, plain or ribbed, used forshawls. Most of the tricot in useto-day is made on old shawl looms,and finished as dress goods. Thename is from the French, tricoter, toknit.

Heavy cross weave, as the sacking iDOp-in which hops are packed. SaCK

Sheer fabric, as etamine, with in- lIMStfHIterwoven, uneven threads, or nubbedyarn in the warp. Mistral is theFrench name for the strong north-west wind.

Silk fabric, made with warp and tCjan-weft of same size. Organzine is the 3WCname given the twisted silk thread inItaly, where it is made.

" Genius and brilliancy do not in-sure success ; close application andcontinued effort yield best results."

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rlcatt0 Cloth of cotton warp and brightwool filling; made at one time inOrleans, France. Many of the so-called alpacas and mohairs of to-dayare Orleans.

CrO00 Fabrics with warp and weft of2)\>C0 different shades ; after weaving they

are crossdyed, or redyed, to givesolid colors and glace effects. Mo-hairs are mostly treated in this way.

SncMtlC? Plain, solid color flannel in specialshades for women's dressing sacksalso applied to a fabric of hemp forgrain sacks.

BlbH" Sheer fabric with fleecy surface.ttO60 The name is taken from the birdwhose downy breast the finish of thefabric resembles.

H0tra- Curly-faced cloth resembling theftban pelt of a breed of Persian sheep calledAstrakhan.

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PEOPLE WE MEET INDAILY BUSINESS LIFE

One who believes in the first per- ^tfoefgtsonal pronoun.

Blood brother to a parrot. 180?COne who is fond of facts. CWUCAlways in agreement with present

company. matOne who steals enough to afford jlTl=

going to jail. \)C&\ZXThe other fellow in an argument. JfOOlOne who is sure of and strong (3cnlU0

enough to be himself.One who thinks he has a right to ffjCatbCll

his own God.The man whom you think dislikes Ufriot

you.

A person who helps lawyers to Ju^Otpervert justice.

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CONCLUSIONDan Hix was a village character

where I lived as a boy. He was astupid old fellow who owned a box-bed wagon and a scraggly horse.With this outfit he hauled kindlingwood from the sawmill and ashes tothe dump.The boys of the village were talk-

ing one evening of Dan's stupidity.One ventured the opinion, Dan couldnot be taught to spell his very shortname in a week. Another offered towager he could teach Dan to spell itright off in that time. Small wagerswere made for and against the propo-sition. Dan, on being asked how hewould like to be able to spell hisown name, promptly agreed it wouldbe the one thing desirable. One ofthe boys was told off to arrange forthe test at the week's end, and theteacher started with Dan. Alongabout the third night the report came,

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"Dan can spell his name." Satur-day night came; the test was to bemade. The teacher told with pride"Dan had not only learned to spellhis name, but had learned the alpha-bet as well." All the boys whoknew of the affair were on the villagecommon. Whichever way the de-cision went a bean feast was to fol-low. Dan, mounted on a pile oflumber, poor, simple Dan. I can seehis grin of pride in his accomplish-ment now. The boy teacher startedDan to spell, a letter at a time.Now, Dan, the first letter. "D,"said Dan, and on he went to H andI, then hesitating, as if in doubt; theteacher urged him with, "Why, Dan,what's the last letter? You had itpat an hour ago." Dan's face bright-ened as he yelled, " Izzard, be gosh! "and lost for his backers. Poor Danwas overtrained, and showed how itwas possible to know too much.

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[1906] megraw, robert h. - textiles, and the origin of their names

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