1930’S • Abercrombie - a know-it-all

• aces, snazzy, hot, cool, keen, or swell – awesome.

• cave – home

• doss – sleep

• keen - very good

• egg - a crude person

• I was just born to swing, that's all.Lil Hardin Armstrong, bandleader, 1930's

• “If you think education is expensive, try ignorance”

FASHION OF THE 20TH CENTURY-1930’S

BY: Victoria Ruiz

Apparel Merchandising and design

Spring 2012

EVENTS In 1930, 58 percent of all U.S. farms have cars, 34 percent have telephones, less than 20 percent own a tractor and less than 13 percent have electricity. The number of combines nationally rose from 4,000 in 1920 to 90,000 in 1937, despite the financial hardships of the Depression.

1929- The Great Depression: It wasn't the 30's, but it did give the decade it's nickname, the "Dirty Thirties"1930- Pluto was discovered by Clyde Tombaugh1930- The first TV commercial was aired in Boston1931- The Star Spangled Banner became the national anthemJuly 8, 1932- The Dow Jones reaches it's lowest average of the depression, 41.22 points1932- 33% of Amercians were unemployed1933- Adolf Hitler is made chancellor of Germany1933- Prohibition is lifted in the US1933- Nazi Germany begins to make life harder for JewsAugust 2, 1934- Hitler becomes Germany's Fuhrer 1935- Iceland becomes the first nation to legalize abortion1936- Gone With the Wind is published1936- The Rome-Berlin-Tokyo alliance is formed1937- The Hindenburg was destroyed by fire over Lakehurst, NJ1938- Minimum wage is established in the US to help the economy 1938- Adolf Hitler is Time magazine's man of the year1939- Nazi Germany invades Poland, starting World War Two1939- CBS television begins transmitting

During the 1930s there was many ways of entertainment. For the children were the movies of snow white and Most children liked to listen to the radio with "Little Orphan Annie", the brave detective child with a wild imagination, and Sandy, her pet dog, while trying to solve the mystery. All the fans of Annie's would buy pins, books, watches, and other top secret detective things. For the adults entertainment they The adults liked the movie, Gone With the Wind, a Civil War romance story, with "The King of Hollywood," Clark Gable! Also there was Shirley Temple, known for her blonde ringlets and her ability to sing and tap dance Shirley Temple became a favorite celebrity in 1934 when she first stared in the following: Now and Forever, Little Miss Marker, and Bright Eyes. By the end of the year she received an Academy Award, and was declared a favorite for the whole family! By the end of the decade, one of the first color motion pictures was

released. The Wizard of Oz made it's screen debut in 1939.

MUSIC AND MOVIES most people tend to think that only Jazz music was enjoying success, this belief could not be more removed from the truth. In fact, music from musicals was also very popular. Musicals seemed to have become an important part of the industry during the early 1930s. (Kinkle, xxxv) Musicals like Porgy and Bess, and Babes in Toyland were very popular. Their songs even more so. The leaders in this field were night club or stage performers - most actors from silent movies were not good singers and performers and so these people were hired for the positions. Other newcomers also took part in these musicals so that they could make a name for themselves. Included in these people were Jack Oakie, John Boles, Nancy Carroll and Jeanette MacDonald. (Kinkle, xxxv)

The silhouette changes drastically in 1930 and skirt hemlines drop. The bustling, waist, and hip are marked, but not accentuated, as opposed to the 1920's straight, boyish silhouette where bust, waist and hip were ignored. Silhouettes are softer, often with flared skirts. The bias cut is big; Madeleine Vionnet is responsible for this trend. Hair is longer than in the 20s and waved (Gold, 1991).

On October 24, 1929, Wall Street crashed and theGreat Depression began. This would have a strong influence on women's fashion in the 1930s. Because of the need to save money, the average women could no longer buy new clothes every few months. Instead, they had to remake the clothes they already had, reusing any material that was on-hand. Only after clothes had been patched and mended beyond what was reasonable would they consider buying a new dress, or the fabric to sew a new one.Up until this time, the custom was for a person to change clothes a few times during the day, each time wearing the clothes appropriate for the activity, or for the time of day — a different set for morning, afternoon, and evening. Once the Depression took hold, this custom quickly began to be cast aside. Throughout the day, one would wear the same outfit, it would only be for certain occasions that one would change, such as donning evening wear when going out for the evening where more formal clothes would be warranted.

Although Paris fashions were still having an influence on American women's fashion in the 1930s, the influence of clothes worn by famous actresses in Hollywood films became a stronger influence. The broad shoulder look, present through the decade, was directly influenced by Irene Dunne's dress in Cimarron.Greta Garbohad an influence on women's fashion throughout the decade.

FASHION Chanel

• Coco Chanel closed her House in 1938 because of the World War II, but re-opened in 1954. Known for her suits, costume jewelry, and quilted handbags.

Dior • Christian Dior was the innovator of the

"New Look". The New Look featured a rounded shoulder and small waist, a very long skirt length with either a very full skirt or a narrow, pencil skirt. The curve of the hip was stressed. Dior named each collection or "line" as well as each dress or ensemble within the line.

Charles James • an American designer. Was considered to

be one of the most original American designers. Known for his lavish ball gowns and architectural shapes

FASHION DESIGNERS MainbocherAs the designer of Wallis Simpson's two piece crepe wedding dress, Mainbocher influenced an entire decade of bridal wear. He also popularized “Wallis blue,” a color that he used exclusively in designs for his muse.

Madeleine VionnetLike Madame Grès, Vionnet favored bias cuts, and draping Madame Grès. Though revolutionary at the time, Vionnet made it a point to show off the female figure. The cowl neck and halter silhouettes we made populare by Vionnet

SILHOUETTE In the 1930s, the silhouette regained some structure. Evening dresses made of bias-cut fabrics clung to the curves of the female body while women's suits for day wear were carefully tailored to nip in at the waist and curve closely over a slim bottom. The 1930s also marked the introduction of the padded shoulder, first used by couturière Elsa Schiaparelli. While the strong shoulders of the 1930s flattered the waistline by comparison, the overall demand that suits be form fitting allowed for the reintroduction of shaping undergarments. Although similar to corsets, the design of 1930s girdles emphasized their modernity, touting the smoothing elastic fabric and the invisible zipper closure.

TRENDS The period between the stock-market crash of October 1929 and the bombing of Pearl Harbor in December 1941 was dominated by one of the worst economic crises in American history. One observer called the 1930s "years of standstill," when "everybody and everything marked time." The confidence of Americans in progress and prosperity, so marked during the 1920s, suddenly vanished. But hard times were not new, and many Americans had suffered even during the prosperous 1920s, especially workers in textile and mining industries. Unemployment had risen from 1.5 million in 1926 to nearly 2.7 million in 1929. During the 1920s millions of Americans were forced off farms by deflated crop prices, soil depletion, and farm mechanization. Yet the Great Depression of the 1930s hit with unprecedented force. Millions of Americans who had recently joined the middle class because of easy credit, installment buying, and...

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The fashion during this time was very modest, with mid calf length skirts and tiny waists. Every outfit was topped off with a skull cap or hat. They women would have been attractive without having to show off so much skin.

TEXTILE The stock market crash of 1929 ushered in the financial and economic collapse of the 1930s. America had not seen such widespread economic hardship since the 1870s. All aspects of culture, including women's fashion, reflected in diverse ways the impact of the Depression ethos.

The autumn 1930 Sears Roebuck Catalogue instructs its readers: "Thrift is the spirit of the day. Reckless spending is a thing of the past." Although styles were changing dramatically, many women chose to make their own clothes to save money. In the boom of the 1920s, some of the surplus wealth created in the stock market had found its way into the pockets of the middle classes. Upper middle class women could afford the occasional high-fashion gown like the Callot Soeurs gown below

By 1932, the Roaring 1920s was ancient history. Economics is the main reason for the relative abundance of vintage clothing from the 1920s vs. the 1930s. Much less fine clothing was created in the 1930s in contrast to the abundant production during the prior decade.

During the 1930s, fashion trends were driven by more than practical economy. A different and seemingly contrary impulse had a powerful effect—the yearning for the unattainable, for the lost world of the 1920s, in short for glamor, the key concept in 1930s high style clothing.

A stylish upper middle class woman could no longer expect to purchase a Worth couture gown like this one.

Worth couture evening gown of sequined tulle with asymmetrical floral spray design, plunging neckline, and back train, c.1930.

POPULAR COLORS of nails with the half-moon and tips left bare (white). During the end of the 1930s

fashion-conscious women still kept the half-moon bare but applied polish to the end

of the tips.

In the early thirties a complexion like "Gardenia" (white and waxen) or "Tea rose"

(ivory with a touch of pink) was most popular face foundation. Therefore powders

applied in rich ivory, light mauve or with a slighty light green touch. From the mid

thirties on women prefered ivory in varying tones of pink, light blue and orange

cream. A color - as natural as possible - with an easy bright pink undertone then

arised at the end of the thirties.

In the early 1930s rouge in very light pinks was used, if any. Later, from mid to the

thirties, raspberry shades, yellow red or purple red were fashionable. Many different

eyelid shades which stretched over blue, bright violet, green, brown and orchid were

applied .

Blondes prefered blue, green or bright violet eyelid shades, brunettes used brown

grease paint with faint purple for a mysterious exotic flair. For evening the brightly

shimmering eyelid shadow was applied from the upper eyelid up to the eyebrow.

A dark eyeshadow was used in the crease of the upper lid and smudged slightly to

create a deep set effect.

For a daytime look petroleum jelly (without eyelid shade) was applied to the upper

eyelids to match the shiny eyebrows. The (often false) eyelashes were curled.

The eyebrows were plucked thin or shaved off entirely. Then the eyebrows were

drawn on with an eyebrow pencil extended well toward the temple. To give them a

shiny look, eyebrows were then be dressed with petroleum jelly, brillantine or olive

oil.

Up to the middle of the thirties most popular lipstick colors were light rose,

raspberry tones, chinese red and orange tones. In the later 30s primarily bright red

tones.

The mouth should have full lips with an elongated bow that rounds and flares at the

corners. This kind of mouth was called the rosebud mouth, bird mouth, "Crawford

Smear" or "Cruller".

For nails colors like pale rose, light pink and cream shades were applied during the

early thirties. 1932, for a short time, even black nail varnish came into fashion. From

mid to late 1930s every shade of red, deep corals, lilac, emerald green, mother of

pearl gray, pale pink, cornflower blue, mauve, gold or silver were used

corresponding to the dress color.

During this decade (as in the 20s) polishes were applied only in the center

Pink Ivory Light Green Mauve Peaches&

Cream

Face Powder

Face Powder

Face Powder

Face Powder

. . . .

Rose Yellow Red Raspberry Purple

RedRouge Rouge Rouge Rouge. . . .

Grey Blue Light Violet Green Brown

Eye shadow Eyeshadow Eyeshadow Eyeshadow

.

Orchid Chinese Red

Orange Red Raspberry

Eyeshadow Lipstick Lipstick Lipstick. . . .Emerald Green

Cornflower Blue Silver Gold

.

THE PARALLEL

This spring, the 1970s will be a huge trend, but not kitschy, disco or , gasp, double knit poly leisure suits. Instead luxury, glamour and femininity will be the vintage look of choice. Basically, good 70s.

And as a bit of fashion history, the 1970s looks were really a revival of the 1930s. When there are parallels in the economy and society, it always reflects on fashion.

Some of the key details of the 1930s that we see again in the 1970s are: