VOLUMES 59 TO 73

Index

The Alpine Journal1953-68

Compiled by D. F. o. Dangar

SBN 9°°523 04- 2

The Alpine Club, 74- South Audley Street, London, WI Y 5FF

Preface

The present volume of the Index to the Alpine Journal, the fourth in the series,carries the Index from 1953 (Volume 59) to 1968 (Volume 73), the last yearbefore the change of the Journal into a single annual volume.

The proposal for this continuation of the consolidated Index was made in late1968, when the Committee invited Mr D. F. O. Dangar to undertake it. Hiswillingness to do this in addition to the heavy burden of the Assistant Editor-ship of the Alpine Journal itself, and the speed with which he completed thevast amount of work involved, are very greatly appreciated; and the AlpineClub has recognised the outstanding contribution which he has made to theobjects of the Club, through his work both on the Alpine Journal and on suc-cessive volumes of the Index, by electing him to Honorary Membership.

The thanks of the Club are also due to Mrs Sarah Hollis for her work on thetypescript.

Charles EvansPresident

May I970

Foreword

This Index has been compiled on the same basis as the previous volume, but,to save space, the writers of obituaries and reviews have not been indexed.

In addition to portraits, illustrations that have been indexed are, in general,those of single mountains or mountain ranges which are likely to be of geo-graphical interest. Pictures of pitches, or small sections of a climb, high campsand similar subjects have not been indexed: although of contemporary interest,it is felt that such illustrations, which usually in any case are referred to in theassociated articles, can be omitted without serious detriment to the value of theIndex.

The following abbreviations have been used:

Aig. = Aiguilleasc. = ascent

C.A.F. = Club Alpin Fran<;aiscr. = crossed, crossing

desc. = descentgl. = glacierill. = illustrationMt = Mount, Mont

Mte = MonteN.Z. = New Zealand

O.A.V. = Osterreichischer AlpenVerein

obit. = obituary

May I970

port. = portraitPt = Point

Pta = PuntaPte = Pointe

recce = reconnaissanceref. = referencetr. = traverse, traversed

U.LA.A. = Union Internationaledes Associations d'Alpinisme

U.LA.G.M. = Union lnternationaledes Associations desGuides de Montagnes

vol. = volume

D. F. O. Dangar

Index to volumes 59 to 73 A

ABALAKOV,V.: port., 64 74Abanico, Pico (Venezuela): 3rd asc., 67

2844th, & 1St by SW face, 67 285, 337

Abi Gamin: 2nd asc., 60 1743rd asc., 60 385

Abominable Snowman: discussion re, 60297,6151, lIO, 340

protective measures for, 62 179seen in the Pamirs, 63 130search for in Kulu, 63 223found eating frogs, 63 259on Mt Everest, 65 99not found in the Pamirs, 65 99seen on a gl., 66 167search for in Rolwaling valley, 66 343hitherto unrecorded mention of, 67 166

Abraham, G. D.: obit., 70 359Abseiling: traditional methods of, 73 108Accidents:

annual summaries of Alpine:1955: 61 389 1961: 68 2991956: 63130 1962: 61}1351957: 64 122 1964: 711431958: 65 96 1965: 72 1381959: 66 160 1966: 73 1071960: 67159 1967: 73 256

in American mountaineering, 68 334Aig. d' Argentiere, 66 394Aig. Noire de Peuterey, 64 248Aig. Verte, 69 290Atna, 73 271Casiri Este, 72 297Cho Oyu, 65 90Ecrins, 64 247, 65139Gangchhen Ledrub, 69 125Gross Glockner, 63 250Khinyang Chhish, 67 342Lauteraarjoch, 60 172Matterhorn, (1865) 61491,71 124,

(1959) 64 248Mercedario, 65 242Mt Cook, 60 382, 65 250, 69 300Mt Kenya, 67 364Mt McKinley, 60 176, 368,7391,268,

269Mt Rolleston, 71319Mukar Beh, 73 246Petit Dru, 64 248, 66 376, 67 209Phurbi Chyachumbu gl., 63 105Pik Garmo, 67 342Pumori, 67169Rondoy, 69 113Ruwenzori, 61 214Saraghrar, 64 lI6Tirich Mir, 67 352Watzmann, 66 385

Achar Zorn II: 2nd asc. 73, 89Aconcagua: 1St asc. by S face, 59463,

6017height, 59463,61 549exploration of E ridge, 61 540notes on the history of, 71 261,721435th asc. by S face, 73 92ill., S face (route of 1St asc.), 60 18,71

260-1,266from NW, 71 260-1W face showing normal route, 71

262NNE face (routes), 71 264WSW face (routes), 71 264

Adam, J. A. : his book: A Traveller'sGuide to Health, 71 339

Adam (Swat): asc., 70 208Adamello group: crs. in, 69 280Adare Saddle (Antarctica): cr., 73180Adele, Cerro: 1St asc., 63 259Afella n Ouanoukrim (Atlas): ascs., 67 67Affentranger, 1.: his book: (with

A. Balliano) La Strada e Questa, 61 568Afghanistan: Abinger expedition to,

1960,66139maps of, 72 324

Africa: mountaineering in, 62 104see also p 55 below

Agassiz, L.: climbing career, 68 209Agner, Mte: attempt, 70 300Aguelzim (Atlas): asc., 67 67Aguja Negra (Bolivia): 1st asc., 67 170Aguja Nevada: 1St asc. of highest peak,

71 137Aiada, Boechetta d': cr., 66 156, 368Aids: artificial, 62 7-9, 46, 89,100Aiguille, Mt:

1st asc.: by SE face, 62 176by SW pillar, 70 251by 'voie du 29 May', 70 252

ill., from Rochers du Parquet, 70252-3

Ailama: by NW face, 64 246Ailefroide :

Central Peak: 2nd asc. by N face, 61541

ill., & arete Coste Rouge from PicSans Nom, 61 89

Aircraft: in the Alps, 67 156, 68 300in the Himalaya, 71 77

Airport: a glacier, 66 380Air Rescue Service: at Zermatt, 66 160Air transport: in the Alps, 60 378Aitchison, 1. G.: obit., 70 360Aitken, J. R.: obit., 70 362Akela Qila: asc., 61 49

ill., with Twins & Ashagiri, 61 51

68 2957°32071 133

6734369135,28270133,32071142,3°672 13373106,235

2 A

Akher Chioh (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,72 122,225

ill.,72210-IIAksoual (Atlas): attempt, 71 45

ill., 71 260-1Alack, F.: his book: Guide Aspiring,

73123Ala Dag: ascs. in, 60 369

by NW ridge, 68 124Alam Kuh: ascs. & tr., 6164

by N face, 61 65ill., N face, N spur & NW ridge, 61 64

N face, 61 64-5ice-curtain of NNW face, 6164-5

Alaska: ascs. in, 60 31, 65 252, 67 357,68 320, 73 270

Parachute Brigade expedition to, 62 121a visit to, 72 76see also p 55 below

Albert, Pte: attempt by W face, 66 78Albigna hut: opening of new, 63123Alchori gl.: ascs. from, 65 40, 43Ali Ratni Tibba: reece, 71 246

ill., 71244-5Allain, P.: his book: L' Art de l'Alpinisme,

61425Allegra, E.: port., 59 299Allinccapac: attempts, 65 86

ascs., 66 150, 151ill., 65 86, 87

Almer, Christian: port., 62 34Alpamayo: 1st asc. of highest summit,

63260attempt, 65 88, 221,69223history, & 1st asc. by N ridge, 72 182nd asc., 73109ill., from S, 69 94-5

W face, 69 212-13N ridge, 72 30

Alpes Maritimes: climbs in, 6996notes on, 70 281frontier rectifications in, 71 143ill., 70 284-5

Alphubel: by Westgrat, 61539,68 II6by Rotgrat, 63 90, 92attempt, 65 215

Alpine Climbing Group: aims &constitution, 61 212

book: Selected Climbs in the Range ofMont Blanc, 63 143,73 II7

1963 Bulletin reviewed, 68 331and the Alpine Club, 72 197

Alpine Club:membership anniversaries, 59 214,

343,64237,65224founding of, 62 24, 64 239minutes of early meetings, 62 25

Alpine Club:early circulars, 62 26original members, 62 27-9correspondence re, 62 29dining club, 62 37jubilee, 62 76pictures, 63 96rejected candidates, 68 269, 69 139its archives & their uses, 71 285& the Alpine Climbing Group, 72 197addresses by Presidents:

Elliott, 59 23 IHerbert, 61 3Hunt,64 IFinch, 67 ISomervell,70 I

Centenary:plans for, 61 544special number of A.J., vol. 62

corrections to, 63 134Zermatt meet, 63 53, 87

dinner,6351London dinner, 63 61

corrections to menu, 63 129exhibition, 63 77

opening of, 63 75reception, 63 80poem,6395gifts, 63 122

exhibitions:5944461 II8

gifts:60 376, 386 64131,13263 122 7°321

honorary members:5986, 343,4586037661207

honours & awards:59 86, 214, 343,45860169,37661387,54463122,25064121,237659266 159,380

Alpine Journal:beginning of, 62 23Farrar as editor, 62 61notes on, 62 62, 66,68Strutt as editor, 62 88change of editor, 67 154,72320centenary of publication, 68 128cost of, 68 360back numbers for sale, 72 365proposed changes, 73 303

A 3

Arnatt, J.:'The North face direct of Sl'mdre

Trolltind', 73 IAmbu Gyabjen: asc., 65 4America: early ascs. in, 62 45

recent climbing in, 62 105Spanish Pan-American expedition,

72317see also p 55 below

Amery, L. S.: death, 60 376, 415obit. & port., 61 189

Arniel (Uganda): 1st asc., 65 245, 69 228il1.,69 228

Amji Rimal: asc., 68 203Amni Machin: estimated height, 65 98

1st asc., 66 274ill., 66 276

Anawakaluk (Baffin Island): attempt,67109

Ancohurna: asc., 69 220Andean journals: rev., 66176,68335,

70 175, 72 177Andenmatten, Franz: biographical note,

70202Anderegg, Jakob: his career, 66 89Anderegg, Melchior: port., 62 34Anderson, G.: obit., 67154Andes:

ascs. : in Argentinian, 68 3I 5, 70 125,71138,72317

Bolivian, 67 170, 68 315, 70124,72127,73 II9

Chilean,67 170, 353, 68 314, 70 141,73 119

Colombian, 71 137,7392new,67171Patagonian,70 142, 72 147Peruvian, 59 87, 64 260, 65 87,

68315,69125,70 124, 144,24°,71137,72124,146,316,73 II8

Venezuelan, 68 317, 69126early Indian, 73 83in 1955-6,61391,543in 1958, 64 125

notes, 60 387, 67 170, 353,72 146,73 II8

geographical description, 60 69, 79,280

bibliography, 60 77massifs of, 60 284mountaineering clubs in, 60 292'first' ascs. in, 64 125expeditions: Oxford, 1960,66 150

Japanese, 1960,66372Schwabian, 1961,67166Reading University, 1962,68219

map of Venezuelan, 69 122

67200,37868163, 34269169,31870182,3597119°,34372184,35573129,295

68363693327038371 3577236373301

Alpine Club:library, some acquisitions during 1954,

60145meets:

Welsh centenary, 62 180il1.,63 II8

Zermatt centenary, 63 53, 87La Berarde, 1959, 64 260Skye, 1960,65222Saas Fee, 1960,66 154

obituary:5986,214,343,45860169,376612°7, 387, 54463122,25064121,27965 133, 26066 182,419

Pension Fund, 59 90proceedings:

59231,49°6044161582632716429966196,42767409

Alpine farming: international co-operation to the rescue of, 65 235

Alpinisme: amalgamation with LaMontagne, 60 371

Alps: expeditions by guideless Britishparties in 1953, 59 214

Lord Fisher &,59217season of 1954 in, 59 461British parties in 1961,66 373

Altar (Chile): asc., 6558early ascs., 65 59ill., from E, 65 55

Altar (Ecuador): 1st asc. of highest point,69127,71 151

history, 71 151Altitude: effect of high, on man, 61 507

women's record, 60 176,64 258, 66389medical aspects of climbing at high,

6816Alto de los Leones: ill., S face, 64 232Arna Dablam: attempt, 64133,65 I

1st asc., 66 351ill., from NW, 65 6

N ridge & NW spur, 65 8from S, 66 348S ridge, 66 348-9& peaks over the Mera Col, 68 14-15

Arnatt, J.: 'The North face ofTrollryggen', 71 98

'Alpamayo, 1966',7218

4 A

Andes:unclimbed 6000 m peaks of, 71 149see also p 56-7 below

Andrews, A. N.: obit., 68163Andrews, A. W.:

his book: Selected Poems on WestPenwith and Reflections, 63 139

corrections to his poems, 64 250obit., 65 133

Angeles Nevado: 1st asc., 61 201Ang Norbu: death, 65 90Angour (Atlas): tr., 6765

ascs., 71 47, 49ill., 71 30-1

Ang Tharkay: autobiography reviewed,61226

Animals, Pass of the: cr., 71 243Anjuman Pass: cr., 72 68Annapurna I:

ill., from Annapurna South, 70236-7from Camp 3 on Gangapurna, 71

78-9Annapurna II: Japanese attempt, 1953,

60174British attempt, 1953,62 1731st asc., 65 143ill., 61 40-1

Annapurna III: 1st asc., 66 390Annapurna IV: Japanese attempt, 1953,

601741st asc., 60 3852nd asc., 62 1733rd asc., 65 149

Annette, B. M.: 'Solo', 69233Anniversaries: Alpine, 67 156

a Slovene, 67 160Anniversary Peak (Alaska): attempt,

62127Anogol Zorn: 1st asc., 73 89Anrhemer: tr., 6770,7147

ill., 7131Antarctica: Fuchs expedition, 61 208

ascs. in, 61548,64132mountaineering in, 63 241, 67 226highest mountain in, 63 261, 65 236New Zealand expedition, 65 249features named after A.C. members,

66166proposed expedition to, 69 287two highest summits climbed, 72 128other ascs. in, 72 128another active volcano in, 72 138Hillary's expedition, 1967,73 173see also p 57 below

Antisana: 1st asc. of SPeak, 70123Anzacs (New Zealand): asc., 72 259Aparejo, El.: ill., S face, 64 232-3

Api: reece, 59 423possible 1st asc., 594621St asc., 65 246ill., 59 424-5

Apolobamba, Cordillera de: ascs. in,64 125,6588, 175

Arco, Cerro (patagonia): asc., 69 188ill., 69 188-9

Arctic: see P 57 belowArenales, Cerro: asc., 63 259, 69189Argentiere, Aig. d': by N face, 60 370

accident, 66 394Argentine: Petit Diedre, 1st asc., 61

541Argentino, Lago: visit to, 65158Arichiri (Andes): 1st asc., 69 218Arolla: motor road opened to, 65 232Arolla, Pigne d': ski asc., 61 81

by N face, 66154proposed teleferique, 67 345

Arrigetch group (Alaska): climbs in,721°9

Artesonraju: 2nd asc., 71151Arthur, H.R.H. Prince: port., 59 282,

283Ascents: for T.V. and B.B.C., 72 243Asgard, Mt (Baffin Island): attempt,

67107ill., 67 102

Ashagiri: asc., 6151Ashby, R. C.: obit., 68 342'Ashenden': his book: The Mountains of

My Life, 60 187Asia: see P 58 belowAsp-e-Safed: 1st asc., 66 247Ass, a wise: 63127Assiniboine, Mt: 1st asc. by N face,

7364,91,274Atlas Mts: ascs. in, 66147,6765

access to, 67 71winter expeditions to, 71 43, 275history, 71 45climbing notes from 1966, 71 279

Atna: 3rd asc., & accident, 73 271Atter, Mt (Greenland): asc., 72 52

origin of name, 72461St asc. 72 46ill., 72 30-1

Attlee, C. G.: obit., 61 357Aufschnaiter, P.: note: Langtrang Himal,

69287Aultllicke: I st cr., 59 457Aura, an Alpine: 63 I

Aurona, Pas so d': cr., 66 155, 386correction re, 67 346

Ausangate: attempt, 6440ill., 64 38

Austen, Jane: quotation from Pride andPrejudice, 68 362

Austin, J. A.: climbs in the LakeDistrict, 65 101,67 172

Australia: mountains of the centraldesert, 67 313

notes, 70 337, 72148see also p 63 below

Avalanches: mechanism of release, 70 57correction re, 70 322suggested cause of, 71 3I Ihow to estimate the danger of, 72 87

Axel Heiberg gl. (Antarctica): desc.,67347

Ayers Rock (Australia): asc., 67316ill., 67 314

Ayrton, R.: 'Summer 1963 with GastonRebuffat', 69 95

'Alpes Maritimes', 70 281Azema, M. A.:

his books: La Conquete du Fitz-roy,59467

The Conquest of FitzRoy, 61 569Azrou n Tamadout (Atlas): 67 70Azucarani Peak: asc., 65 177

BACHARACH,A. L.: his book: (with O. G.Edholm) Exploration Medicine, 70 347

Bacone, Piz: by N ridge, 64 262Badile, Piz:

NE face: attempt, 59 208ascs., 60 375, 61385,64270,66375,

68293, 70 3011st British, 61 385

by N ridge, 61 541,64262a storm on, 67 34by new route on NE face, 73 254

Badile, Torrione del: 1Stwinter asc., 73254

Baffin Island: Cambridge expedition to,1961,6797

Bailey, C.: obit., 63102Baillie, R.: 'The Fairest Cape', 69103

'The Right-hand Pillar of Brouillard',7168

Ball, John: port., 62 16Balliano, A.: his book: (with L.

Affentranger) La Strada e Questa,61568

Ball's Pyramid: attempt, 701361st asc., 70 327

Balston, F. W.: obit., 70182Baltoro Kangri: 1st asc. of highest peak,

68306Band, G. C.: 'Kangchenjunga climbed',

60 207his book: Road to Rakaposhi, 61 218

B 5

Bandar Punch: attempt, 60174asc., 69 203Black Peak, attempt, 69 205

Banff-Jasper Highway: 59 33Banks, M. E. B.: 'Struggle for

Rakaposhi', 61 449'Two North American expeditions',

71 19his books: Commando Climber, 61 419

Rakaposhi,65 113Snow Commando, 67 191

port., 61 456, 63 165Banner, H.l.: his book: (with P. Crew)

Clogwyn du'r Arddu, 68332Banyang Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc., 73 249Baring, Mt: by N face, 66 143

ill.,66 144-5Barker, G.: obit., 73 133Barker, R.: his book: The Last Blue

Mountain, 65 113Barneby, T. P.: his book: European

Alpine Flowers in Colour, 73 125Barrow, W.: obit. & port., 59 448Barry, Martin: career, 59 19Bartrum, G. L.: obit., 65 260Barun Saddle: 59 16, 17Barun valley: expedition to, 1953,60227

ill., 61 24-5Baruntse: 1st asc., 59462,60234Basset, A.: obit., 60149Basso, Campanile:

ill., & Campanile Alto, 66 308from SW, 66 308-9from E, 66 308-9

Batkin, J.: death, 72 325, 329Battle, Mt (Baffin Island): asc., 67 102

ill., 67 110Batu Mts (Ethiopia): note on, 61 347

ascs. in, 64 217Batura group: accident, 64 245Batura Muztagh: expedition to, 65 48Bauer, P.:

his books: Das Ringen um den NangaParbat I8S6-I9S3, 60181

Kangchenjunga Challenge, 60 422The Siege of Nanga Parbat, I8S6-

I9S3, 61 422Baume, L.: 'The South Georgia Survey,

1955-6',61465Baume, P. A.: obit., 68 342Bazarrabusa, T. B.: obit., 71 343

port., 71 348Bears: in the Alps, 72 323Beauman, E. B.: 'The Centenary meet at

Zermatt', 63 53Beaumont, Pte: E face: 1st asc., 63119Bechtold, F.: death, 66 388

6 B

Beckey, F.: 'Climbs in Alaska, 1954',6031

Beetham, B.: obit., 68 343Beletsky, E.: 'Mountaineering in the

U.S.S.R.', 61310Dennen, J. J.: correct spelling of, 72133Bennett, C. F.: obit., 67 200Bere, R. M.: his book: The Way to the

Mountains of the Moon, 71 324Bergell: ascs. in, 1959,64262

note on, 64 263Berglistock: 1st asc., 59 54Bernardi, A.:

his books: Il Gran Cervino, 69 310II Monte Bianco: dalle Esplorazioni

alla Conquista (I09I-I786), 71 171Bernd, E.: death. 7115,316Bernese Oberland: old & new climbs in,

72289Bernina, Piz: 3rd asc., 63 47

attempt in 1863, 6347Bernina group: ascs.& crs. in, 66 156, 376Bezingi Horseshoe: tr., 71312,7257

ill., from last summit, Lialver, 72 58some summits of, 72 62-3panorama from near summit of

Dych Tau, 72 320Bhattacharjya, B.: his book: Mountain

Sickness, 70 167Bhiundar Khal: cr., 60 260Bhulu Lhasa (Nepal): asc., 70 260Bhutan Himal: expeditions to, 70 106,

71281,72264note on the mountains of, 70 118highest mountain in, 72 325ill., 70 110-II, 71 282, 72 321See also p 59

Biafo-Hispar gl. system: tr., 61543Bietschhorn: 1st desc. by S face, 59 465

ill., 59 203Big Ben (Heard Island): attempt, 68 300

1st asc., 70 125, 273ill., 70 276-'7

Biiguinoussene (Atlas): tr. by NWridge, 67 66

Bilafond La: cr., 63188,192Bill, A. L.: obit., 60 150Biner, Bernard: obit. & port., 70 378Bionnassay, Aig. de: asc., 61 71Birchall, M.: death, 72127,297Bird, L. W.: obit., 67 201Birunga volcanoes: activity in, 64 257Bismarck gl.: il1.,61 276, 277Bispen: il1.,E face,& Kongen, 73 63Bisson brothers: their mountain pho-

tography,62 157Biwi Giri: 1st asc., 64 88

Blacker, L. V. S.: death, 69 282Blacker, W.: mountaineering career,

61 354Blackshaw,A.: 'United Kingdom notes,

1955',61403'United Kingdom notes, 1956',61552'Jangi Tau', 64 70'The first exploration of the South

Staunings', 66 254his book: Mountaineering, 71167,

73284becomes editor of AlpineJournal, 72

320Blaitiere, Aig. de: by NW ridge, 59 65,

60370,6678,151by new route on W face, 59 461, 60

165,61 540,63245,64261,6995by E face, 61 540by SE ridge, 64267attempt by W face, 67 38by new route on W face of N summit,

72131ill., N summit & NW ridge from

Grands Charmoz, 59 68W face, 60 165

Blakeney, T. S.:'Mountaineering and the British

Royal Family' 59 278'Some notes on A. F. Mummery', 60

118'Alpine Club Library. Some acquisi-

tions during 1954',60 145'The first ascent of the Trifthorn', 61

348'Two early mountaineers, Chapman

and Blacker', 61 352'The first ascent of the Matterhorn',

61493'The rise of modern mountaineering,

1854-65',6216'The opening of the Centenary exhi-

bition', 63 75'Eckenstein: the man and the climber',

6571'John Thorn: mountaineer', 65199'Early ascents of Mont Blanc; some

biographical footnotes', 66 316'Failed A.C.', 68 269'Old Peter Taugwalder, 1820-88',7026

'The Matterhorn: a diary of eventsafter the disaster of 1865', 70 199

'Maurice Wilson and Everest, 1934',70269

'A Tibetan name for Everest', 70 304'A word for Whymper: a reply to

Sir Arnold Lunn', 71 I I I

Blakeney, T. S.:'The Alpine Club archives and their

uses', 71 285'The ascent of Chomolhari', 72 304notes: C. E. Engel's History of

Mountaineering, 5999G. E. Marindin, 59 214an unrecorded expedition of

Mummery's, 59 216early descents of the Schalligrat,

59217Lord Fisher and the Alps, 59217Sherlock Holmes and the Theodule

Pass, 59 345the first ascent of Elbruz., 59460Alpine chronicles, 59465Coolidge and Mummery, 61211Hadow's boots, 63 124Dr F. A. Cook and Mt McKinley,

63251Whymper and the Taugwalders,

6594a tour Centenary, 68 134a disputed ascent, 68 139honorary members, 68 295S.A.C. Centenary, 69 138Winthrop Young papers, 69 138failed A.C., 69 139Alpine chronicles, 69 140early proposals to climb Everest,

69143Nilkanta again, 69 145Sir Winston Churchill, 70 134,

322Whymper and Southend, 70 135South Georgia, 70 327Mount Everest and the monsoon,

70328Whymper and the Royal Society,

71308Mont Blanc: first ascent by an

English woman, 72 134Bennen or Benet, 72 133Frank Smythe and Graham Brown,

72135Tilman and Mischief, 72 144G. L. Mallory, 73 265

Blanc, Mt: Brenva route: ases., 63 246,6681

Sentinelle Rouge: ascs., 61 75, 66151attempt, 59 3251st winter asc., 66 385

Route Major: ascs., 67153,73971st winter ase., 60171

Via delia Pera: winter attempt, 61547ase., 66711st winter asc., 70 326

B 7

Blanc Mt.:Peuterey ridge: ases., 59 402,60373,

6665,73973rd complete ase., 66 261

Freney: 1st ase. by Central Pillar of,66372,67 113

attempts & fatal storm on, 671121st ase. by route to right of North

Pillar of, 67 1521st winter asc. by Central Pillar of,

72322lnnominata ridge: 1st winter ase.,

60 171attempt, 66 68

Brouillard: new variation on ridge,64, 269

date of Harris-van Noorden ase.,69140

1st ase. by Right-hand Pillar of,7°315,7168,3°4

various ascs., 67 221,225M. Barry's, 59 19E. J. Clark's, 59 264from Aig. de Bionnassay,61 71Erasmus GaIton's, 61 1021st by a dog, 61 393by a member of the College of

Cardinals, 64 243by a blind man, 65 97new information re 1st ase., 67 230in the massif of, 67 338, 68 125,

292,692771st by an English woman, 72134an American, 72 327

double tr., 60 373around, in four days, 66 78biographical footnotes to early ases.,

66316physiological expedition to, 66 161notes on illustrations of ascs. of, 68 215early refs. in America, 69 285, 70 324,

71309prints of de Saussure's ase., 69142geological map of massif, 70 352ill., N slopes from Aig. du Midi, 62

44-5& Aigs. of Chamonix from the Dru,

6268the Gamba amphitheatre, 62 84Brenva face from Col de la Fourche,

6284-5from Mt Blanc du Tacul, 66 78-9

from Col de la Seigne, 66 78-9from S, 66 268Freney face from Pta Gugliermina,

67 lI8Central Pillar of, 67 118-9

8 B

Blanc, Pierre: memories of, 70 222obit·,7r. 146

Blanc de Seilon, Mt: by N face, 65 89Blanc du Taeul, Mt:

by Gervasutti Couloir, 60 3741st British ase., 73 10

1st ase., 7r. 131other ases., 73 97

Blanca, Cordillera: ases. in, 60 176, 383,65220,6988

Blanche, Dent.: by W face, 67 2151st winter ase. by N ridge, 68 2992nd ase. by N face, 7r. 310a cross on, 72 135

Blanco, Nevado: ase., 69 51Blasenliieke (W): 1st tourist cr., 59457Blind mountaineers: ases. by, 65 97, 70

134Blodig, K.: ninety-fifth birthday,

60170obit. & port., 6r. 524

Blow, J. E.: death, 59 214Blumental: port., 59441Bobbie Burns group: ases. in, 65 25Bohren, Gottfried: death, 68 300Bois de Chesne, A.: obit., 59 332Boktoh: attempt, 59 318

ill., 59 318Bolivar, Pieo: asc., 67 284Bolts: as used in Australia, 72 149Bona, Mt: 3rd asc., 6r. 202

4th asc., 72 332ases. in the area, 73 270

Bonaeossa, A.: 'Reminiscences', 70 218Bonatti, W.:

his books: Ames Montagnes, 68 153On the Heights, 70 172

Bonington, C. J. S.: 'The North facesof the Tre Cime di Lavaredo', 65182

'The modern rappel; a study insanity', 66 367

'The Central Pillar of Frllney', 67 II I'Notes on equipment and technique',

67 332, 69 271'The Central Tower of Paine', 68 179his book: I Chose to Climb, 72 162

Books: some early mountaineering, 6243,48,66

Bouleau Mountain: note on, 6r. 215Bouquetins, Dents des: 2nd complete

tr., 66 380Bourdillon, J. : her book: Visit to the

Sherpas, 6r. 423Bourdillon, R. B.: 'Everest, 1953. The

closed circuit oxygen apparatus',59238

Bourdillon, T. D.: 'Everest, 1953. Theclosed circuit oxygen apparatus',59238

'The oxygen apparatus in action',59247

note: the Alpine Climbing Group,6r. 212

obit. & port., 6r. 357, 521Bourrit, M. T.: his life & climbs, 68 206Bove, Mt (Tierra del Fuego): ase., 68

233Bovet, Abbe: his dog's adventure, 70

223Bovet, Beeea: 1st recorded ase. from E,

73254Bowden, F. P.: death, 73 295Bowdler, Thomas: Alpine journey,

1779,62 137Bowen, H. C.: obit., 6r. 523Bowman, W. E.: his book: The Ascent

of Rum Doodle, 6r. 422Bozman, E. F.: obit., 73 295Bradley, M. G.: obit., 68 164, 344Braham, T. H.: 'The Cambridge

University expedition to Spiti,1955', 6r. 296

'Swat and Indus Kohistan', 68 251Brahma I: attempt, 7r. 137Brailsford, S.: his book: (with E. A.

Wrangham) Selected Climbs in theDauphine Alps and Vercors, 73 288

Braldu Brakk: ase., 64 179Brasher, C. W.: his book: (with Sir J.

Hunt) The Red Snows, 65114Bregaglia: ases. in, 1962,67340Breithorn, Lauterbrunnen: from Klein

Breithorn, 66 87Breithorn (Swat): ase., 70 210Breithorn (Zermatt): by Younggrat, 6r.

54,70 297asc., 6r. 83by Klein Triftje, 63 87, 243by TriftjigrOlt, 63 92

Brenta Alta: ases., 69133Brenta, Campanile Basso di: asc., 66 304Brenta, Crozzon di: asc., 67 275

by N face, 69 133ill., 67 276

Brenva, Aig. de 101: by E face, 60 167,6r. 74

BrettelI, F. G.: obit., 70 364British Isles notes: 6r. 403, 552, 65101,

67 172,70146, 7r. 154,72 151See also p 54 below

Broad Peak: attempt, 60 1761st asc., 63 131

Broekedon, W.: note on, 73 :\59

Brocklebank, T. A.:note: Rapiu La, 64 242

stoves, 68 135Brooke, F. R.: 'Oberlandjourney, 1956',

61334'The ascent of Rakaposhi', 63 159note: Kilimanjaro, 68 301

Brooks range (Alaska): ascs. in, 70 332Brouillard, Pillars of:

ill., from just below Col du Freney,7162-3

Right-hand Pillar (routes), 71 305Broun, A. F.: obit., 59 83Brown, F. A. Y.: biographical note,

70202Brown, H. M.: 'The High Atlas in

winter', 71 43'Return to the Atlas', 71275

Brown, J.: his book: The Hard Years,73 122

Brown, T. Graham: 'Everest', 59 103'The Wetterhorner', 59179his books: (with G. R. de Beer) The

First Ascent of Mont Blanc, 62184

La Prima Ascensione del MonteBianco, 66 407

Lord Tangley's appreciation, 71 51bequests, 71 308& Frank Smythe, 72 135port., 62 84-5obit. & port., 71 191

Browne, B. : his book: The Conquest ofMount McKinley, 61415

Brujo, EI (Andes): 1st asc., 6557Bruneggjoch: 1st cr., 61548Brussels, Mt: 4th asc., 70 333Bruyere, arete de la: tr., 64 263

asc., 67 159Bryant, L. V.: his book : New Zealanders

and Everest, 59 354obit., 63 229port., 60 402

Bryce, Mt: history of, 72 142Buckland, M t (Tierra del Fuego): 1st

asc., 71 313Bugaboos: ascs. in, 6519,66140,71318,

73 251, 274ill., from N, 65 22

granite peaks of the group fromBrenta Spire, 73 245

Bugaboo Spire: 2nd asc. by E ridge,6519

by E face, 66 140ill., E face, 66 145

Buhl, H.: 'The ascent of Nanga Parbat',59384

B 9

Buhl, H.: his books: 8000 Driiber UndDrunter, 60 185

Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, 61 572death, 62 182

Bullard, F. M.: his book: Volcanoes inHistory, in Theory, in Eruption,

68149Bullock, G. H.: 'Diary of the Everest

expedition, 1921',67130,291obit., 61 361

Bullock, H. S.: obit., 68 166, 345Buni Zorn district: ascs. in, 71 136Bunnell, F. J.: his book: Rock Climbing

Guide to Hong Kong, 65119Burgener, Alexander: port.,

70 14-15Burke, M.: 'The good guys v. the

mountain', 73 43Burkett, Mt (Coast Range): attempts,

71298Burley, M.: 'Climbing in the Antarctic',

67226Burman, J.: his book: A Peak to climb:

the Story of South AfricanMountaineering, 72 169

Burney, Mt (Patagonia): attempt toreach, 67 267

journey round, 68 230Busk, D. L.: 'Elizabeth Peak, Ruwen-

zori', 59 268'Further notes on the Ruwenzori', 59

407,60105'Kilimanjaro', 60 96'The Simien and Batu ranges in

Ethiopia', 61 344'A new map of the Ruwenzori Peaks',

6460'The first rappel: a study in vanity',

66365'The Sierra Nevada de Merida', 67

280'Venezuelan notes', 68 317'A map of the Andes of Venezuela',

69 122'Two faces', 72 232notes: Ronald Ladkin, 60 382

Ruwenzori, 61 214, 65 98a map of the Central Elburz,

63207Ethiopia, 69 286

his book: The Fountain of the Sun,63141

Busk, Miss M.: death, 73 107Busazza: by W face, 68 20

by S face, 68 226Byam-Grounds, J.: note: a cross on

the Dent Blanche, 72 135

10 C

Byne, E. : note: climbs in the PeakDistrict, 65 104, 67 176

his book: (with G. Sutton) HighPeak,72 167

obit., 73 266

CACACCAPAC:tr., 66151Caeca Aca, Nevado: ill., NW face, 6449Cake, the (S Georgia): asc., 61 469Calanques: climbs in the, 6995Caldwell, ].: his book: The Cross-country

Ski Book, 7°352Calino, Pizzo: 1st asc. by SE ridge, 66 155Calvo gl.: ill., 61 276-7Calzada group (Andes): ascs. in, 68 220Camel (Alaska): asc., 72 115Campbell, P. A.: Kenya and

Tanganyika notes, 68 325Canada: climbing in Quebec Province,

64129ascs. in, 65 252celebration of centenary of Confeder-

ation, 72 142see also p 56 below

Can-can, Nevado: asc. 70 242Canonigo: 1st asc., 71152Canti, E.: port., 59 299Capitan, El: 1st asc. by Muir Wall,

71 318ill., 71 220

Capucin, Grand: N face: 1st asc., 60 373E face: 9th asc., 60 373

solo asc., 64 268other ascs., 60 373, 61 542,63246,

64261,66 152,6790,69 132S face: 1st asc., 61542

Capucin du Requin, Petit: by NW face,63120

Carabaya, Cordillera de: ascs. in, 72 124,73253

Cardinal, Ie: 1st asc. by W face, 70 314Caribou Mts: ascs. in, 68 321Carol, Pico: asc., 66 151Carr, ]. D.: death, 63 122Carr, H. R. C.: 'Some notes on Swiss

prints and illustrations in accountsof ascents of Mont Blanc (to 1853)',68212

note: an eighteenth-century chamoishunter, 67 16o

Carr-Saunders, A. M.: 'The Club'spictures', 63 96

note: Alpine pictures, 64 129obit., 72 184

Carrell, G. N.: 'The Alpine ClubPhotographic Exhibition, 1953',59444

Carrell, G. N.:'The Alpine Club Photographic

Exhibition, 1955',61118'Centenary Exhibition', 63 77'The Alpine Club Photographic

Exhibition, 1961',67181Carslake, W. B.: obit., 65 135Carstensz massif: ascs. in, 68 84

ill., 68 86-7Carter, A. C.: 'A winter expedition to

the Spanish Sierra Nevada', 68 61Cascade, Mur de la: by Voie Chandelier,

61542Cascade Range: ascs. in, 68 321, 70 333Cashan Oeste: 1st asc., 73118Casiri Este: asc. & accident, 72 297Castor: asc., 6185Cathedral Peak: ill., with Lapworth

Peak from Sermitsia g!., 68 257Cathedral Spires (Alaska): ascs. in, 72

33°Catinaccio: ascs., 69134Caucasus: A. W. Moore's diary of 1874

expedition, 60 305, 61 123ascs. in, 63 117, 246, 64 130, 67 54, 152see also p 54 below

Caukwell, R. A.: Kenya and Ugandanotes, 69 304

Kenya and Tanzania notes, 71 321,72336

Cavales, Pic Nord des: by W ridge,60374

Cawood, A. H.: port., 7°14-15Cayambe: 6th asc., 70123Cayesh, Nevado: 1st asc., 66164, 199

ill., from S, 66 204W face (route), 66 204-5from slopes of Condor, 66 206

Ccapana: 1st asc., 64 39Ccollapachinachuman: ascs., 69 48Centenaries: in 1954,59344

in 1955,60 173in 1956,61211,391alpine equipment, 69 241

Central Peak (Swat Kohistan): attempt,68259

asc., 70 208Chabod, R.: his book: The Centenary of the

Italian Alpine Club, 70 161Chachacomani: attempt, 68 222Chacraraju: 1st asc., 61 543

1st asc. of peak north of, 69 922nd asc., 70 124, 144ill., lower peak from SE ridge, 60 72

from summit of Pisco, 60 73from Huandoy, 60 82

Chacraraju East: 1st asc., 68 124

Chainapuerto: attempt, 70 240Chair Ladder (Cornwall): escape from

drowning at, 73 216Challis, D. H.: 'Cordillera Real, 1966',

77,292Chamlang: 1st asc., 67 351Chamonix: early ascs. from, 67, 12

guide system, 67,42tr. of the Aigs., 63 244, 66 375, 67 38ascs. in the Aigs. of, 73 98

Chane Kuh: ascs., 61 63-4Chanez, -: port., 59 299Changtse: iII., from W ridge of Everest,

6C)14-15Chapman, K. A.: mountaineering career,

61352Chapiitschin, Fuorcla dal: Ist recorded

cr., 63 48Chardonnet, Aig. du: by Forbes arete,

63245by N face, 66 152ill., 67,44-5

Charim Kokero (Himalaya): asc., 73 250Charmoz, Aig. des Grands: by NW

ridge, 59 207by Republique ridge, 60 371by Mer de Glace face, 67 217

Charmoz, Petits: by NW buttress, 66 152Chaukamba: 2nd asc., 65 90Chaytor, H. J.: death, 60169Chearoco, Nevado: asc., 68 222

ill., 68 224-5Cheng, Chou: 'The ascent of Shisha

Pangma', 69 211Chephren, Mt (Rockies): 1st asc. by

E face, 71 318ChevalIey, G.: his book: (with R.

Dittert and R. Lambert) Avant-Premieres a ['Everest, 59 352

Chiantar Central Peak: 1st asc., 73 209Chiantar gI. (Hindu Kush): expedition

to region of, 73 207nameless peaks ascended from, 73 210,

213ill., peaks of, 73 212-13

Chiantar, Little: 1st asc., 73 209Chichibu, Prince: correspondence re,

77, 194death, 59 86

Chichiccapac: ascs. 65 85, 86Chikar Zorn: 1st asc., 77, 122,23°Chilean Cordillera Central: description

of, 64 228bibliography, 64 235maps, 64236climbs in, 6553new refuge in, 65 242

2

C II

Chilean notes: 65 241, 68 314, 70141Chimborazo: British ascs., 64 241, 65 98China: and the Tibetan frontier claims,

65238Chinchey, Nevado: asc., 65 220Chitral: German 1965 expedition to,

71215recce into NE, 73 55

Chittan Wangdi: port., 67 299Chocetacarpo: 2nd asc., 69 45Chogolisa: 1st asc., 64134, 168

ill., 64 169Chogo Lungma gI.: recce, 65 41Chomolhari: 1st asc., 77,304

ill., 67 134-5Chomo-Lanzo: 1st asc., 60 384

iII., from slopes of 21,500 ft peak,6023°-1

from S of Kama Chii, 67 298Cho 6yu: 1952 expedition, 59 9

1st asc., 60175,239attempt & accident, 65 903rd asc., 69 289ill., from above Nangpa La, 59 12

& Gyachung Kang, 5914from Base Camp, 60 242the summit, 60 247

Chopicalqui: 1st asc. from Dltatal, 67166Cho Polu: asc., 60 237Cho Rapzang: ill., from the Nangpa La,

5915Chorley, R. R. E.: 'Climbs at Zermatt,

Chamonix and Courmayeur', 59 23'To the Monk's Head on Rakaposhi',

6048Chouinard, Y.: 'Modern Yosemite climb-

ing', 71 219Christaturm: by E face direct, 70 248Christoffel, D.: his book: La Montagne

dans [a Peinture, 69157Chubb, H. E.: obit., 65138Chucullani: asc., 70 243Chugach Range: ascs. in, 67 357, 73 271Chugan Bashi: attempt, 67 55ChuglIaraju: 1st asc., 67166Chukhung Peak: asc., 59 110,135Chumik gI.: exploration of, 66 149Churchill, Mt (Alaska): 2nd asc., 77,332Churchill, Sir Winston: mountaineering

achievements, 70 134, 322mountains named after, 71 149

Chwascinski, B.: 'The Polish expeditionto the Hindu Kush, 1960',66235

'The exploration of the Hindu Kush',71 199

note: Polish mountaineering clubs,67 161

u C

Cia e Hendevade (Turkey): by N face,72 119

Ciarforon: by N face, 72 319Cilo Mts (Turkey): ascs. in, 70 313,

72 129ill., Resko from Maunsell's Peak,

70285Suppa-Durak,71 158-9

Cipreses valley (Chile): ascs. from, 65 241Citlaltepetl: asc., 70 55

ill., 70 54-5City of London, the: and exploration,

7°323Civetta, Mte: NW face:

Solleder route: asc. 68 21, 2261St winter asc. 68 299,

Philipp-Flamm route: asc., 68 227Clark, E. J.: asc. of Mt Blanc, 59 264

date of death, 68 299Clark, L.: his book: The Marching Wind,

61 221Clark, R. W.:

his books: The Victorian Mountaineers,59359

Six Great Mountaineers, 61 569A Picture History of Mountaineering,

61577An Eccentric in the Alps, 64 271(with E. C. Pyatt) Mountaineering

in Britain, 64 275The Day the Rope Broke, 70 159

Clark, S. G. McH.: 'Two on thePeuterey', 61 472

his book: The Puma's Claw, 64146Clarke, L. W.: obit., 61526Clarke, M. N.: note: the mountaineer

and the law, 61 209Cleare, J.: 'An introduction to Swanage',

66 299'Climbing assignments', 72 243note: expedition film work on high

mountains, 73 40his book: (with T. Smythe) Rock

Climbers in Action in Snowdonia,71 335

Cliff, B.: 'The North-east Pillar ofNelion', 69 259

Climbing: technique of artificial, 60 37,in Yosemite, 71 219

some reflections on modem, 72 15Clocher de Planreuse, Petit: an umbrella

on, 65 96Clogwyn du'r Arddu: ill., 62 92Cloud formation: a strange, 69 291Clough, I. S.: 'The season of plenty',

6730'The Wall of Walls', 68 20

Clough, I. S.:'Eigerwand, 1962',6829'Gaurisankar, 1964',7096'The first ascent of the Fortress and

future prospects in the Cordilleradel Paine', 73 143

Clubs:Alpine Ski: 50th anniversary, 63 256

note on, 73 107Austrian Alpine: 80th birthday, 64 121& O.A.V., 64 242

Austrian Alpine Verein: centenary,67344

Canadian Alpine: 50th anniversary,61388

centenary expedition, 73 18,273Finnish Alpine: formation, 68 135French Alpine: international meet,

7236membership, 73 256

Italian Alpine: centenary, 68 297,69 136

Ladies Alpine: 50th anniversary, 61 548Mountain Club of South Africa:

75th anniversary, 72 133New Zealand Alpine: Himalayan

dinner, 61 21375th anniversary, 71 142,319

Norske Tindeklub; 50th anniversary,63262

60th anniversary, 73 106Polish mountaineering, 67161Swiss Alpine: fete centrale, 64 121

centenary, 68 127,69 136election of President, 70 134, 73 106membership, 70 135, 73 106

Swiss Women's Alpine: 50th anni-versary, 73 255

Tourist Klub Skala: 40th anniversary,67 160

Turkish Alpine: reactivated, 72 324Coast Range: ascs. in, 68 320

proposed expedition to, 70 139expedition to, 71 296correspondence re expeditions to,

72195Coaz, J.: his climbs, 68 210Cochran, N. J.: death, 64 247

obit., 65 139Cochrane, Torre Norte del (Andes):

1St asc., 72 147Cocuy, Andes of: geographical features,

6333history of mountaineering in, 63 36expedition to, 63 38bibliography, 63 42ascs. in, 65 220

Coddington, E.: obit., 72 355Cole, J.: 'West Nepal expedition, 1964',

7°254Colgrove, J. B.: port., 70 14-15Colledge, R. L. B.: 'The Brioschi route

on the Macugnaga face of Nordend',59203

'Three climbs from Chamonix', 64200

Collomb, R. G.:his books: A Dictionary of Moun-

taineering, 64 145(with P. Crew) Selected Climbs in

the Mont Blanc Range, vols. I& II, 72 347

(with J. O. Talbot) Bernina Alps,73285

Selected Climbs in the Pennine Alps(vols. I & 11),73286

Maritime Alps: Vesubie Basin andArgentera, 73 290

Colombia: expeditions to the Andes of,62 179, 63 38, 133,64244

Colorado: Rockies of, 71 26bibliography, 71 35

Communism, Peak of: asc., 68 244ill., from Garmo gl., 68 94

from upper basin of Vavilova gl.,6894-5

S face, 68 248--9Concavo, El.: ill., from N, 63 39Concha, La: asc., 67 285Condor: ascs., 66 204Conner, Mt (Australia): asc., 67 320

ill., 67 315Conrad, Mt (Bugaboos): by N ridge,

6525Consolation Peak (Swat Kohistan): asc.,

68261Controversies, Alpine: centenary survey

of, 62 144Tyndall & Stephen, 62 47

Conway, Lord: & Illimani, 60 172Cook, Dr F. A.: & Mt McKinley, 63 251Cook, Mt: accident, 60 382, 65 250,

69300by new routes, 61 330, 72 3341st asc. by E face, 67 165avalanche on, 68 1361st asc. by S face, 68 323history, 69 2621st by Japanese & other ascs., 70 334,

72260ill., air view of E face, 69196-7

W (Hooker) face, 69 196--7SE (Caroline) face, 69 197

Cooke, H. E.: obit., 6S 261

C 13

Coolidge, W. A. B.: Lunn's memoriesof, 60 437

& Mummery, 61211& the Aig. Verte, 67 158

Cooper, Mt (Selkirks): 1st asc., 68 321Cooperation, Peak (Pamirs): 1st asc.,

6896ill., 68 94-5

Copapamparaju: 1st asc., 69125Copeland, F. S., note: a Slovene

anniversary, 67 16oCoraie, Forcella delle: cr., 61 206Corlett, W. E.: obit., 6S 229Cornice Peak (Himalaya): asc., 64178Cornier, Grand: by S face & SW ridge,

63 1211st winter asc. by NE face, 72322

Cornish, C. C.: obit., 70 365Corno di Campo: asc., 70 220Cortaderas group (Chile): 1st asc. of

unnamed rock peak in, 65 241Cotopaxi: note re 1st asc., 68 303Couloir Peak: by E wall, 61381Courmayeur: in 1913, S9 299Courtauld, A.: obit., 64 279Courtauld, S. L.: obit., 73 135Courtes, Les: tr., 59 324

by Aig. Qui Remue buttress, 61 203Couzy, J.: death, 64127Coverley-Price, V.: his book: An Artist

among Mountains, 61 578poem: Alpine Centenary, 63 95

Cox, A. D. M.: 'Mists on Mont Blanc',617°

'The Matterhorn Centenary', 707becomes Editor of Alpine Journal, 67

154relinquishes Editorship of Alpine

Journal, 72320Crampons: in a 15th-century campaign,

73257Crawford, C. G.: note: Minya Konka,

63 130obit., 64 280

Crawford, L. : ascent of Thamserku, 70 93Creag Meaghaidh: note on, 6S 190Crete: hut in the White Mountains,

63258mountains of, 6S 208ill.,65212-13

Crew, P.: 'Vertigo, 1962',68 225'The British Cerro Torre expedition,

1967-8',73186his books: (with H. I. Banner)

Clogwyn d'ur Arddu, 68 332Selected Climbs in the Dolomites,

68333

14 D

Crew, P.: his books:Llanberis South, 71 336(with R. G. Collomb) Selected

Climbs in the Mont Blanc Range,vols. I & II, 72 347

Dents du Midi, 72 348Bregaglia West, 72 348

Criminal: a climbing, 66 388Cristobal Colon (Colombia): by S face,

62179Crocodile, Dent du: by E ridge, 59 207,

60373Croll, W. G.: 'Mount Cook', 69 262Crombie, T.: Andean notes, 60 387, 67

353notes: the Argentine Dhaulagiri

expedition, 1954,60383Ojos del Salado, 61 397Patagonia, 61 398Arthur B. Emmons, 68 129

Croux, Aig.: by SE face, 60 165Croux, Evaristo: obit., 62182Crozet Islands: climbs in, 66 52Cuchillo, Nevado: 1st asc., 6442Cuernos, Principal (Patagonia): 1st asc.,

73 153Culverwell, E. R.: obit., 63 103Cunatincota Chico: 1st asc., 67170Cunatincota, Nevado (Bolivia): ill.,

from SW, 67171Cust, A.: port., 70 14-15Cutforth, A. E.: obit., 64 98Czartoryski, P.: 'Polish mountain-

eering', 72 103

DACHL (Gesiiuse): 1st asc. by N face,diagonal crack, 64 266

Dachstein: by S wall in winter, 66 284ill., S face (Steiner route), 66 284

Dan Beard, Mt (Alaska): 1St asc.,68264

ill., from NW fork of Ruth gl. (route),68256-']

Dang, H.: 'Mount Everest, 1962',68 IDangar, D. F. 0.:

'Peter Egger of Grindelwald', 59 53'The Fiihrerbuch of Young Peter

Taugwalder', 59 436'The first ascent of the Trifthorn',

61348'The first ascent of the Matterhorn',

61493'The rise of modern mountaineering,

1854-65',6216'The highest mountains', 62 165'Early expeditions in the Pontresina

district', 63 44

Dangar, D. F. 0.:'Eckenstein: the man and the climber',

6571'John Thorn: mountaineer', 65199'Jakob Anderegg', 66 89'The Parkers and the Matterhorn',

68 285'Old Peter Taugwalder, 1820-88',

7026'The Matterhorn: a diary of events

after the disaster of 1865', 70 199'A word for Whymper: a reply to

Sir Arnold Lunn', 71 III'The ascent of Chomolhari', 72 304'The highest mountains, 1962-1967',73241

notes: British travellers in theDauphine, 59 89

Mont Pelvoux, 59 464The first ascent of Piz Palii, 61 545Bruneggjoch, 61 548

d' Angeville, Henriette: interview with,65232

Dansketinden (Staunings Alps): 2ndasc., 70 126

Daplipandigo: asc., 6158Darban Zorn: 1St asc., 71 136Darbyshire, C. : Peruvian notes, 70 144Darrah-e-Abi (Hindu Kush):

expedition to, 72 65Darrah-i-Parshui (Hindu Kush): notes

on & ascs. from 72 308ill., 72 306-7

Darrah-i-Shahran area: 1st ascs. in,739°

Darwa Top (Himalaya): asc., 69 203Darwin, Mt (Tierra del Fuego): ases.,

67264ill., 67 262

Darwin Range: expedition to 67 259Daunt, H. E.: death, 59 86Dauphine: British travellers in the,

5989ascs. in, 64263, 67 341

Davidson, M.: her book: (with R.Hewitt) The Mountains of NewZealand, 60 425

Davidson, Sir Edward: incident at theSchonbiihl hut, 70 219

Davies, A.: 'Women's Overland Hima-layan expedition, 1958',6483

Davies, L. W.: 'Footsteps in the snow',61340

Davy, Sir Humphry: at Chamonix,69 284

Deacock, A.: her book : No Purdah inPadam, 65 258

Deacock, W. M. M.: 'Spirit of theStorm', 70 273

Australian notes, 70 337, 72 148de Agostini, A.: death, 66 164Dean, D.: 'Oscar Eckenstein, 1859-

1921',6562de Beer, G. R.: 'William Benson Earle's

visit to Chamonix in 1767',5937'Thomas Bowdler, Alpine pioneer',

62 137'New information about the first

ascent of Mont Blanc', 67 230notes: Hannibal's route across the

Alps, 6:1:215Anton Malczewski, 6:1:394Sir Humphry Davy at Chamonix,

69 284Alpes Maritimes, 7:1:143

his books: (with T. Graham Brown)The First Ascent of Mont Blanc,

62 184La Prima Ascensione del Monte

Bianco, 66 407de Booy, T.: his book: (with C. G.

Egeler) The Untrodden Andes, 60 423Deborah, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 59463,

6035ill., 60 32-3

de Briiyn, I.: 'Courmayeur in 1913',59299,458

death, 59 343de Chatellus, A.: his book: Alpiniste,

est-ce-Toi ?', 59 361de Graaff-Hunter, J.: death, 72 134de Grunne, F.: obit., 66 387Delago, H.: death, 68132de la Motte, E. S. G.: obit., 63 112de Lavis-Trafford, M. A. : his book: Le

Col Alpin franchi par Hannibal-Son Identification topographique,64 277

note on, 67 370Delez, P. L.: death, 59459de Luc, J. A.: note on, 63125

life & climbs, 68 206de Luca, G.: 'The Matterhorn: an

impression from Italy', 70 43de Lusy, M.: obit., 60151Demavend: by E ridge, 6:1:64, 66-']

asc., 66 139Demirkazik (Taurus): asc., 70127Denman, E.: his book: Alone to Everest,

59480DeoTibba:

ase.,66 390, 68 525th, 67 330

Densham, G. L.: obit., 69318

D 15

de Saussure, H. B.: his climbs, 68 208Desio, A.: 'The 1954 Italian expedition

to the Karakorum and the conquestof K 2', 60 3

his book: La Conquista del K 2,Seconda Cima del Mondo, 60419

de Trafford, E. A.: obit., 65 262Devereux, Peak (Wokkpash): 1st asc.,

6649Devies, L.:

his books: (with L Terray) Joies de laMontagne, 70 346

(with P. Henry) La Chafne duMont Blanc (III), 72 348

Devil's Thumb (Greenland): 2nd ase.,68 123

ill., 68 110-IIDevistan I: 1st asc., 66 390de Wesselow, O. L. V. S.: obit., 64 296Dharmsura: ill., & Papsura, 73156-7Dhaula Dhar & Pir Panjal ranges: ill.,

peaks of, from Chandra Khanni Pass,73244

Dhaulagiri:attempts: Swiss 1953, 59 302

Argentine, 1954, 59462,60383Swiss, 1958,63261Austrian, 1959,64 244, 65 II

1st asc., 65 246ill., from S, 59 302

from N, 59 302-3N face, 65 14, 17NE ridge from Camp II, 65 14-15

upper part of, 65 16Dhaulagiri district: exploration in, 60248Dhaulagiri Himal: expedition to, 68 188

topography of, 73 II 3ill., from N, 60 250

II & IV from E, 60 254IV from W, 68 192-3, 7:1:78-9

Dhaulagiri IV: attempts, 68 193, 196,7:1: 79

Diable, Aigs. du: tr., 6:1:540,64264Dias, J.: his book: The Everest

Adventure: Story of the Second IndianExpedition, 7:1:331

Dibibokri Pyramid: ill., 6:1:462-3, 464Dibona, Aig.: ascs., 60 370

1st asc. by S face, diedre Anglais,7396

Diemberger, K.: 'The North face of theEiger', 64 187

'My finest route in the Alps', 66 261'Some climbs from the Upper

Tirich glacier', 7:1:61d'Ifni, Lac (Atlas): visit to, 71 48Dikte, Mt (Crete): asc., 65 212

16 D

Dimple (S Georgia): 1Stasc., 61 466Diran: attempt, 65 90Dir Gol: ascs. from, 72122Dirg Zorn (Hindu Kush): asc., 73 250Discovery, Mt (Antarctica): 1Stasc.,

64132Disgrazia, Mte delia: 1Stasc., 63 48

asc., 64 262by NNE ridge, 68 125, 69 279

Disteghil Sar: attempt, 63 132,642451Stasc., 65 245, 66 Iill., 66 6-7

Dittert, R.: his book: (with G.Chevalley and R. Lambert) Avant-Premieres a I'Everest, 59 352

di Vallepiana, U.: 'Photographicsouvenirs of ski-mountaineering',59201

Dividal, the (Norway): note on, 61 382Dixon, Mt (New Zealand): attempt,

72258Dixon, W. S.: obit., 69 169Docharty, W. M.:

his books: A Selection of some 900British and Irish Mountain Tops,61423

supplement to, 69 314Doepfner, Cardinal: ascends Mt Blanc,

64243Dogs: climbing achievements of, 60 378,

61210,393,70223Doig, D.: his book: (with E. Hillary)

High in the Thin Cold Air, 68 151Dolent, Mt: tr., 67 220Dolomieu, Marquis de: memorial to,

64124Dolomites: ascs. in, 64 267,66157,374,

67 340, 68 125, 293, 69 279, 73 100Dom: asc., 65 218

double anniversary on, 73 205Domeyko, I.: his ascs. in the Andes,73109

Don Bosco, Cerro (Patagonia): 1st asc.,67257

Donguz-Orun: by N face, 67152Donkin, B.: obit. & port., 70183Donkin, S. B.: obit. & port., 59 73Donkin, W. F.: his Alpine photography,

62159Douglas, Lord F.: expeditions in 1864,

73255Douglas-Hamilton, Lord M.: obit.,

70366Dowbiggin, H. L.: obit., 71345Downes, R. 0.: death, 63131,180Downton, Rev. H.: biographical note,

70202

Drakensberg: highest summit in, 60178

Driver-Holloway, J. S.: obit., 61 364Droites, Les: N face: 1Stdirect asc.,

61207tr., 64 2641st winter asc. by NW spur of N face,

68299Dru, Aig. du Petit:

W face:ascs.: 3rd, 60 25, 166

1St,60 1662nd, 60 1664th, 60 374other, 61 542, 63 2461Stwinter, 62 1791Stdirect, 70 317, 71 103

Pilier Bonatti:ascs.: 1St,60 374

2nd, 61 5423rd,61542other, 63 246, 6425, 68 2281Stwinter, 66385

accidents, 64 248, 66 376, 67 209ill., W face, 60 3

from La Flegere, 62 104Drungso Ri (Bhutan): asc., 72 269

ill., 72 259Drusenfluh: narrow escape on, 66 62Duglosz, J.: death, 68 132Dummett, G. A.: 'African holiday',

64206Dunsheath, J.:

her books: (with others) Mountaimand Memsahibs, 63149

Guest of the Soviets, 64 278Dych Tau:

E peak: 1Stasc., by right S buttress,63247,6466

by left-hand S buttress, 64 259ill., 64 68

Dyhrenfurth, G. 0.: 'Narrow escapes',66 58

'Some hints for Himalayan aspirants',6836

notes: Malubiting, 67167Gangapurna, 69 288Kondus-Kaberi,72 140Ngojumba Ri II, 72 141Ngojumba Ri, 73 115

his books: Das Buch vom NangaPa1bat,60 181

To the Third Pole, 60 421Der dritte Pol, 66 172

Dyhrenfurth, N. G.: 'Americans onEverest, 1963',69 I

note: Mount Everest, 67 350

EARLE,W. B.: visit to Chamonix, 59 37Earthquake: in Switzerland, 1855,6494East African notes: 65 243, 67 361,

68 325, 69 302, 70 336, 71 321,72 336, 73 276

East Aling gl.: ill., looking up, atCathedral & Mitre, 67 78-<)

East Maiden (Alaska): asc., 72 114Eaton, J. E. C.: obit., 64 99Ebnefluh: asc., 61 338Eccles, Refuge: destruction of, 59 87Echevarria, E.: 'Further notes on the

Andes', 60 79'The Andes of Cocuy', 63 33'The Santa Marta range, Colombia',

63209'The Cordillera Real', 6444'The Chilean Cordillera Central',

6488,6553'The Rockies of Colorado', 71 26'The South American Indian as a

pioneer Alpinist', 73 8 IAndean notes, 67 170, 72 146Chilean notes, 65 241, 68 314, 7°141notes: Andine 'first' ascents, 64 125

Lanin, 67 163Pichincha, 68 302Cotopaxi, 68 303unclimbed 6000 m peaks of the

Andes, 71 149Altar, 71 151Aconcagua, 72 143Alpamayo, 73 109Ignacy Domeyko, 73 109

Eckenstein, 0.: his career, 65 62port., 65 70

Ecole Nationale: RassemblementInternational of, 64 261

Ecrins: accident, 64247,65 139Almer's leap on, 71 112

Edholm, O. G.: his book: (with A. L.Bacharach) Exploration Medicine,7°347

Edith Cavell, Mt: 2ndasc. by N face, 72332by N face to E summit, 73 66, 92, 274

Edunstwa, Pik (Pamirs): by NWan::tefrom Pik Spartak, 73 29

1st asc., 73 29Edwards, J. I.: 'The Batura Muztagh

expedition, 1959',6548Edwards, Menlove: death, 63 257Egeler, C. G.: his book: (with T. de

Booy) The Untrodden Andes, 60 423Egger, Peter: climbing career, 59 53Egger, T.: death, 64 244Eggler, A.: 'On Lhotse and Mount

Everest', 61 239

Eiger:N face:

ascs.: 13th, 63 246, 64122, 18714th, 64267in 1959,6598in 1961,66 3761st winter, 66 384in 1953,67158total to 1961,671581st British, 67 338, 68 29other British, 68 293, 69 1321st solo, 69 1401st desc., 69 1411st direct, 71 256

correspondence re, 72 193SE face: 2nd asc., 7°130NE face: loth asc., 65222recovery of victims of 1957 accident,

67157von Kuffner's ice-axe on Mittellegi-

grat, 67 345ill., from shoulder of Gross Fiescher-

horn, 61 336-7from Mettenberg, 62 157N face (route), 64 190showing direct & normal routes,

71260Eiselin, M.: his book: Erfolg am

Dhaulagiri, 66 396Elbruz:

ascs.: 1st, 59460,61 155,71 312by a centenarian, 69 141on a motor cycle, 72137

E peak: 1st asc., 60 1151st by a British woman, 63 118

ill., 61 123, 15°,325Elburz range: ascs. in, 61 63

note on, 61 391map of the Central, 63 207

Ellesmere Island: Peary in, 59 216ascs. in 67164highest peak in, 73 108ill., 67 164

Elliott, C. A.: valedictory address, 59 231Elphinstone, Colonel: port., 59 283Emery, J. A. G.: 'The runcible cat',

66290obit. & port., 68 347

Emi Koussi (Sahara): 1st asc., 63 131Emmons, A. B.: death, 68 129

obit., 68 351Encantados, Sierra dos: ascs. in, 62174Enclave, Col d': cr., 66 80Engel, C. E.:

her books: They came to the Hills,5998

Mont Blanc: an Anthology, 71 173

18 F

English, H. B.: obit., 67 378Equipment: Russian, 64 91

Himalayan, 64 124notes, 66 365, 67 332, 69 271bivouac, 67 332

Erciyas Dag: by NW face, 67 337Erebus, Mt (Antarctica): 1st, 2nd &

other ascs., 64 132origin of name, 64 1325th asc., 67 347height, 68 137

Erica, Punta (Andes): asc., 70 242Escarra, J.: death, 61 388Estcourt, N. J.: 'Three climbs from

Chamonix', 73 9Ethiopia: brochure by Dr H Scott, 64131

Dr Mooney's travels in, 69 286Etna, Mt: height, 69 285Etwa in Urdu (Karakoram): asc., 67 83Evans, D.: 'The Jagdula expedition,

1962',6865Evans, J.: her book: The Conways: a

History of Three Generations, 72 345Evans, R. C.: 'The Cho Oyu expedition,

1952',599'Everest 1953. The first ascent of the

South Peak', 59173his books: Eye on Everest, 61 417

On Climbing, 61 563Kangchenjunga, the Untrodden

Peak, 61 575Eve (Swat): asc., 70 208Everest, Mt: Swiss attempt, 1952,59 I

1st asc., 59 103of SPeak, 59 173

oxygen apparatus, 59 238, 247West Basin or West Cwm, 59 85Hubbard Medal awarded to 1953

expedition, 59 343congratulations from Russia, 59 366South Summit or South Peak?, 59 367disappearance of Mallory & Irvine,

59495ascent challenged, 60 170height, 60 170book re Swiss expeditions, 60 1922nd asc., 61 249expeditions in the 1920S, 62 87Abominable Snowman on, 65 99Tibetan name of, 65 239, 69 144, 290,

7°3°4Chinese asc., 1960,65247,6628, 313Indian attempt, 1960,65248,66 15Bullock's diary of 1921 expedition,

67130,291Chinese photograph, 67 310, 6848,359proposed American attempt, 67 350

Everest, Mt:Indian attempt, 1962,67351,68 IAmerican ascs. & 1st tr., 68 305, 69 Iattempt from Tibetan side, 68 305ice-axe found in 1933, 68 141loth anniversary of 1st asc., 68 303,

69142transport & Sherpas in 1963, 68 237early proposals to climb, 69 143Maurice Wilson's attempt, 70 269& the monsoon, 70 328Indian asc., 1965,7°33°,71 Iin jade, 71 312roads named after members of 1953

expedition, 72 362Chinese attempt, 1966,73 115Chinese scientific expedition to

North Col., 73 248ill., S flank of SE ridge, 594

SE ridge, 59 5from the SE, 59 16from the air, 59 103views from summit, 59118,122,

61249Kangshung face from Barun gl.,

60230-1from Base Camp, 1922,62 frontis-

pieceChinese photo, 66 314, 67 311,

685°North Col from W, 67 135N face from North Col, 67 298-9SW shoulder from Pumori, 68 14-15from W Cwm. 6814-15SE ridge with summit & S summit,

6815members of Swiss & British expedi-

tions on Gross Simmelistock,68233

from 20,000 ft on Pumori, 69 14N face & summit pyramid from

W ridge, 69 14-15Exposure meters: compass errors due

to, 64 243Eyre, D. C.: his book:John Sikander,

59483

FABIAN,D.: 'The Scottish-CanadianCoast Range expedition, 1965',71296

Faes, H.: obit., 73 296Fairweather, Mt: 2nd asc., 63 248Fairweather Range: 1st ascs. in, 68 320Falak Sar: recce, 6744

history, 68 252attempt, 68 2552nd asc., 71 136,216ill., 71212-13,216

Fall: a record, 73 257. (But see 75 205)Falso Morado (Chile): new route on

S face, 67 170Family first ascents: 67 157Fanny (Karakoram): origin of name,

68 138Fantin, M.: 'Mexican trilogy, 1963',7048

'Some notes on the history of Acon-cagua', 71261

his books: I quattordici '8000', 70 174Cervino I86S!I96S, 71 178Alpinismo Italiano Extraeuropeo,

73 126Farquhar, F. P.: his book: History of the

Sierra Nevada, 71 175Fawcett, E. D.: obit., 65228Fay, Cornelia: port., 72 274Fearon family: & the Wetterhorn,

64247Fedden, H. R. R.: 'Russell and the

Vignemale', 65 80'Climbing in Turkish Kurdistan',

71 133note: Canada, 64 129his books: Alpine Ski Tour, 61 573

The Enchanted Mountains, 67 373Fenaroli, F.: his book: Flora delle Alpi,

61227Ferlet, R.: 'Aconcagua, face Sud

Premieres Batailles', 60 17his book: (with G. Poulet) Aconcagua,

South Face, 61 415Fermedaturm, Gross: narrow escape on,

666oFex-Scersen, Fuorcla: 1st recorded cr.,

6348Fiescherhorn, Gross: asc., 61 337Fiescherwand: by N buttress, 66155Figari, B.: his book: Montagna, 61428

obit., 72 188Film festival: international, 64 123Film work on high mountains,

expedition: 73 35Finch, G. I.: valedictory address, 67 I

Finch, J. R. G.:notes: Hindu Kush, 68137

a map of the Hindu Kush, 73 110Tirich Mir, 73 110

Finsteraarhorn: asc., 67 223by NE face, 70 130ill., NE face, 62 39

Finzi, N. S.: obit., 73 296Firmin, A. H.: obit. & port., 60 397

accident, 61 42death, 61 43

Firsoff, V. A.: his book: In the Hills ofBreadalbane, 59483

F 19

Fischer, W.: death, 66 162Fisher, J. E.: obit., 71 190Fisher, Lord: & the Alps, 59 217FitzRoy, Mt: 1st asc., 59468

ill., group from Estancia Rocco, 67 238& Aig. Poincenot, 67 238-9, 241

Fitzsimons, R.: his book: The Baron ofPiccadilly, 73 28 I

Fixed rope failures: note on, 73 262Flaig, W.: his book: Lawinen: Abenteuer

und Erfahrung, Erlebnis und Lehre,61567

Fleischbank: by SE face, 70 247Fleming, Mt (Baffin Island): 1st asc.,

67 101Fleming, P.: his book: Bayonets to

Lhasa, 66 399, 67 209Fletcher, F.: obit., 60151Foraker, Mt: 2nd asc., 69 297

asc., 72 329ill., 72 62-3

Forbes, D.: his book: The Heart ofNepal, 67 370

Forcella: 1st recorded asc. by NW ridge,59457

Forster, D. J. V.: obit., 69 319Fortress, The (Patagonia): 1st asc.,

7393, 143ill., showing route of 1st asc., 73 148

with Shield & Trident from E,73 156

& the Sword, 73 156-7from W, 73 156-7

Fosson, Benjamin: death, 61 388Foster, W. J.: obit., 61365Foster, W. W.: obit., 60 154, 376Fothergill, C. F.: obit., 60400Fou, Aig. du: by SW ridge, 60 371, 63

245,642631st asc. by W face direct, 72131by S face, 72 318, 73 II

Fowler, T. G. W.: obit., 72 356Fox, C. I. W.: obit., 63105Frances, Pi co (Tierra del Fuego): asc.,

68 236Francis, G. H.: 'Invitation to the Andes,

Part II', 60 280his book: Mountain Climbing, 64 140obit., 65 262

Franco, J.: 'Makalu', 6113his books: Makalu, 61 407

(with M. Mora) Ski de France,67372

(with L. Terray) Bataille pour leJannu, 71 165

(with L. Terray) At Grips withJannu, 72 176

20 G

Franz Josef gl.: fall of ice from, 71 149Fraser, C.: 'How to estimate avalanche

danger', 72 87his book: The Avalanche Enigma,

71325Fraser, G. J: obit., 64 282

death, 65 7Frauenberger, W.: 'The ascent of Nanga

Parbat', 59 371death, 63 256

Frazer, R. A.: obit., 65 93, 225Freese-Pennefather, H. W. A.: obit.,

72356Frenchman's Cap (Tasmania): 1st asc.

by S face, 70 126Freshfield, D. W.: 'Two Caucasian first

ascents', 60 II 3'The first attempt on the Porta da

Roseg', 60 302Frey, W.: 'Some notes on the Darrah-i-

Parshui (Central Afghan HinduKush)', 72 308

notes: maps of Afghanistan, 72 324Hindu Kush archives, 73 I I I

his book: Zwischen Munjal undBashgal, 72 348

Frida, Punta di: by S face (Comiciroute), 64 267

Friedli, E. : death, 72 290Friga (Baffin Island): 1st asc., 67 104Frison-Roche, R.:

his books: (with P. Tairraz) MontBlanc aux Sept ValUes, 65 II5Les Montagnes de la Terre, vol. I,

69308vol. II, 70 165

Frost-bite: treatment of, 71 309Fuego, Tierra del: naming of peaks in,

68316travels in, 67 259, 68 230

Fuhrer, Heinrich: death, 66162Furketlihorn: asc., 70 218Fusilier Peak (Wokkpash): attempt,

66461st asc., 66 47

GABELHORN,OBER: by S face, 5925,61542,6388

tr., 59 261st asc. from Wellenkuppe, 60 377by N.N.W arete direct, 61 203 -by N face, 65 89ill., from Mountet (routes), 61202

Gaillard, E.: obit., 59 71Gallegione, Pizzo: excursion to, 70 221Galline, Dosso delle: asc., 61205Galmiliicke: cr., 61 337

Galton, Erasmus: & Mt Blanc, 61102port. (silhouette), 61 104

Ganchen: attempt, 65 46Ganesh (Moditse): 1st asc., 7°123,213

ill., 70 236Ganesh Himal: 1st asc. of highest

summit, 61 2132nd, 65 246, 66 Corrigenda

Gangapurna: confused with AnnapumaIII, 69 288

1st asc., 70 312, 71 89ill., with Pt 6700 m & Annapuma III,

69288from S with route of 1st asc.,

7178-9E ridge, 71 78--<)

Gangchhen Ledrub: attempt & accident,69 125

attempts, 70 139Gangotri I: 1st asc., 59463Gangotri I II: 1St asc., 59 462Gangto Peak (Bhutan): ill., 71 26 IGannett Peak: 1st winter asc., 65 252Gansser, A.: his book: Geology of the

Himalayas, 71 326Garden, P. J.: death, 72 219Gardner, A. W.: his book: (with P. J.

Roylance) New Essential First Aid,73 126

Gardner, J. D.: note on, 61 1°7Garroo, Pik: accident, 67 342

asc., 68 97Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak): 1st asc.,

63242Gasherbrum II: 1st asc., 61 396Gasherbrum IV: 1st asc., 63 261, 64 155

ill., 64 16oGasherbrum VI: ill., from Camp II

on G. IV, 64 160-1Gasherbrum group: ill., Gasherbrum

II, III, IV, 64 160-1Gasherbrum La: reached, 64 167Gates, C. F.: obit., 61194Gaudry, Mt (Antarctica): 1st ase., 68 136Gauri Sankar: possibilities of asc., 59417

reece, 60 176attempt, 65 90, 70 96ill., 70 94-5

NW face, 70 94-5sketch with route of 1964 attempt,

70 100Gavamie, Cirque de: by new route,

61543Geant, Aig. du: by S face, 59 207, 63 245

Mummery's attempt by N face, 60 129statue blown from summit, 64 124ill., 62 52

Geant, Col du: solo cr., 69 235Geiger, Hermann: death, 71315

his book: Geiger and the Alps, 72173Geike, Mt: 1st asc. by N face, 73 274Geisshorn-Aletschhorn ridge: Pt 3675,

probable 1st asc., 59 2°9,346Gemelli, Piz: by Flatiron ridge, 61 542Geneva: memorials in the English

church at, 64 239George Cross: awarded to a climber,

63250George, H. B.: his camera, 62158

port., 62 17Georges, Joseph: death, 66 163

obit.,66381Gepang: asc., 60 65, 72 203

ill., 60 62Germain, F.: his book: Across the Alps,

65 1I8Gestola: asc., 63 247, 64 1I8Ghent, Mt (Karakoram): 1st asc., 66 390Ghiglione, P.:

his books: Nelle Ande del Sud-Peru,59357

Eroismo e Tragedia sui Monte Api,61220

obit., 66 182Ghul Lasht Zorn:

1st asc.: of E Peak, 71 63of highest Peak, 71 63of SPeak, 73 89

Ghustung Himal: ascs., 7187Ghustung North: ascs., 68196,197

ill., 68 208Gibraltar: guide to rock climbs of, 65 237Gibson, E. R.: obit., 63106Gibson, J.: obit., 59 333Gibson, J. T. M.: 'Twenty-five years

of schoolboy expeditions in theHimalayas', 69 201

Gill, M.: 'Mount Herschel andRobertson Bay: Sir Edmund Hillary'sAntarctic expedition, 1967',73173

Gillett, W. A.: obit., 64 283Gillman, P.: 'The Eigerwand direct',

71256his book: (with D. Haston) Eiger

Direct, 72 163Gilroy, Mt (Coast range): asc., 71 300Gippenreiter, E.: 'U.S.S.R. notes,

1959-1963',69293Girdlestone, Rev. A. G.: biographical

note, 70 203Glacier Dome (Annapurna group): 1st

asc., 70 1232nd asc., 71 95

Glacier Dome (N.Z.): asc., 72 258

G 21

Glaciers: underground, discovered,63260

movement of Swiss, 64 121,6597,70326

in retreat, 65 234Glaciers, Aig. des: asc., 61 70

ill., 66 78Glencoe: ascs. from, 65 188Gletscherhorn: il1., N face (routes),

7229°-1Glockner, Gross: Bishop Salm's

expeditions, 69 244Glossary: for mountaineers, 73 259Gloster Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc., 65 44

il1., 65 38-9Glover, G. T.: obit., 59 212Gobbi, Toni: note: U.I.A.G.M., 71 147Gold: in the Alps, 61 548Goode, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 72 330Goodfellow, B. R.: 'Chinese Everest

expedition, 1960: a furthercommentary', 66 3I3

'The Matterhorn Centenary', 70191'Wide base stereoscopic photography:

a further note', 72 95notes: mountaineering in the

U.S.S.R., 59 459reports on Alpine weather and snow

conditions, 63 263exposure meters and compass errors,

64243P. W. F. Mayo, 64 243crampons in a fifteenth-century

campaign, 73 257port., 70183

Goodfellow, T. A. J.: 'The ascents ofMount Fleming and MountMidgard',67 101

'The International Meet of the C.A.F.,1966',7236

Good Neighbour Peak (Alaska): 1st asc.,7322

Gopeng Goh: ill., & other Lahouli peaksfrom Rohtang La, 64 86-7

Gordoghan Zorn: asc., 71136Gordon-Spencer, E. J.: obit., 69 170Gore Range (Colorado): origin of name,

7131 IGorner gl.: survey of, 64 240Gosse, P.: obit., 65 92Gough Island: asc. of highest mountain

in, 61 391Gouter, Aig. du: 3rd asc. by N face,

65222Graham, A. C.: obit., 63 127Graham, Peter: obit., 66 386Graham, R.: obit., 59 333

22 H

Graham, R. B.: obit., 63 108Grant, R. H.: note: Annapurna II,

65 ISOhis book: Annapurna II, 67 192

Gray, D.: 'Expedition filmwork on highmountains', 73 35

'Personality and climbing', 73167poem: Forced Bivouac, 7317

Greaves, A.: obit., 61 527Gredos, Sierra de (Spain): ascs. in,

73100Green, Mt: by S ridge, 61381Green Mountain (Karakoram): asc.,

6779Green, V. H. : his book: The Swiss Alps,

67194Greenald, D. H.: 'Snow Lake, 1956',

64 175Greenbank, A.:

his books: Climbing, Canoeing,Ski-ing, Caving, 70 172

Instructions in Mountaineering,73126

Greenland: ascs. in, 61543,68307expeditions: French to South, 1956,

6318Franco-Swiss, 1958,64126Hunt's, 1960,65238,66250Italian, 1960,66166Imperial College, 1963,69253Scottish to East, 1963,69 127Royal Navy to East, 1966, 72 29, 212Sandhurst, 1966,7245St Andrews to West, 1967,7368A. M. A. to Sukkertoppen, 1967,

73234See also p 57 below

Greenwood, H. D.: note: U.LA.A.,73 II6

Greg, R. L.: obit., 70 367Gregory, A.: 'The Merseyside

Himalayan expedition, 1955',6154his book: The Picture of Everest, 60

192Grepon, Aig. du: by E face, 5926,

661511st asc., 60 1261st asc. of Pt Balfour, 60 381by C. P. route, 63 2195th asc. & 1st tr., 63 219tr., 67 38by Aig. de Roc., 72 40

Gribbon, P.: 'Upernivik Island: theUniversity of St Andrews West Green-land expedition, 1967',7368

Griffin, L. J.: his book: (with G.Oliver) Scafell Group, 73 291

Griffin, M.: her book: Tiquimani, 71 18oGrindelwald: graves at, 64 238Grivola: by N ridge, 64 268Grogan, E. S.: death, 72 328Grosvenor, J. E.: obit., 68 352Gruber, G.: 'A panorama of the Hindu

Kush',72 I'A reconnaissance into North-east

Chitral', 73 55Gspaltenhorn: winter asc. by Rote

Zlihne, 64247by NE face, 72 290

Gstellihorn, Gross: 2nd asc. by SWPillar, 69 133

Guan Nelda: 1st asc., 61 308ill., 61301

Guardian, El (Colombia): by newroute on S face, 62 179

ill., 63 212-13Guex, A.: his book: Pilote des Glaciers,

60432Gugliermina, G. B.: port., 59 299

obit., 68 167Gugliermina, G. F.: port., 59 299

obit., 67 202Gugliermina, Pta: by S face, 59 207,

60375,61 385,66376,7353,97Guide-books: Italian mountain, 59 466

early, 62 10, 17Guides: deaths of Swiss in 1955,61 2II

tales by Swiss (book), 61 221& the Matterhorn, 62 22in Pioneers of the Alps, 62 42of Chamonix, 62 42& imitation snakes, 62 50relationship with amateurs, 62 53prestige of, 62 101training of Val d' Aosta, 70 262number licensed in Switzerland &

Austria, 71 142Guisan, H.: obit., 65264Gunbaz-e-Safed: attempt, 66 248Gunther, A. E.: 'Glaciers of the Kulu-

Spiti Divide', 59288Gurla Mandhata: ill., 66 332Gurtner, 0.: death, 63 262, 64 128Gyachung Kang: 1st asc., 69 289Gyalgen Peak: 1st asc., 6161

ill., 61 60-1Gyalzan Kazi: port., 67 299Gyong gl. system: explored & mapped,

66149

HADFIELD,C. F.: obit., 70 368Hadow, D. R.: his boots on 1st asc. of

Matterhorn, 63 124port., 61 488-g

Hagen, T.:his books: (with others) Mount

Everest: Structure, Explorationand Population of the EverestMassif, 65 255

Nepal, 67 369Mount Everest, 68155

Haidinger, Mt: attempt, 72 262Half Dome: ill., N face, 61221Hall, D. O. W.: New Zealand notes,

60143, 391,61 399, 549,63 135, 264,64251

Hallworth, R.: his book: The LastFlowers on Earth, 73 124

Hamel, Dr: place of death, 63 125Hammock bivouacs: 1st use in the Alps,

72138Hamtah Pass: cr., 6146Handley, C. B. C.: obit., 72 189Hangde: 1st asc., 67 351Hannibal: his passage of the Alps,

6193,215,67243Hanuman Tibba: 2nd asc., 71303,72201

3rd asc., 72 326ill., from Bruce's Pass, 71 304

from Shekuntla Tibba, 72 210Haramosh: attempt, 63132

1st asc., 63 261, 64 12ill., & Mani Peaks (route of 1st asc.),

6414& Nanga Parbat from Camp 3 on

Malubiting, 65 38Haramosh La: cr .. 65 47Hardie, N. D.: New Zealand notes,

~2~,~3~,~3~,~3~,69300,70334,71319,72334,73275

his book: In Highest Nepal, 63 141Hardy, H. H.: obit., 64101Harlin, J.: 'The West face of the Petit

Dru direct', 71103obit., 71 346

Harmsworth, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc.,63241

Harper, A. P.: note: 1869 and 1954,59345

obit. & port., 60 402Harper Pass: origin of name, 61 549Harper's Saddle: origin of name, 61 549Harrer, H.:

his books: Seven Years in Tibet, 59 355The White Spider, 65 1°9,70352I Come from the Stone Age, 70 342

Harris, E.: 'Everest, 1953. The closedcircuit oxygen apparatus', 59 238

Harris, Admiral Sir E. A. S.:biographical note, 70 203

H 23

Harris, M. J.: 'The East Summit ofDych Tau', 64 66

'Russian climbing equipment', 6491obit., 64 284death, 65 7

Harris, R. G.: obit., 72190Harrison, F.: obit., 59451Harrison, J.: death, 71319Harrison, Major: port., 59 283Hartley, T.: 'Double anniversary on the

Dom', 73 205Hartog, J. M.: 'Pic Sans Nom,

Dauphine', 61 87'The climbing of the Muztagh

Tower', 61253Hasell, J. A. E.: 'Communications on

the Pakistan-British Karakoramexpedition, 1962',6998

Hasler, G. A.: obit., 59 334Haston, D.: his book: (with P. Gillman)

Eiger Direct, 72 163Hattersley-Smith, G.: note: Ellesmere

Island, 67 164, 73 108Haukana: asc., 69 222Hauser, G.: 'The German Himalayan

expedition, 1965',7189his book: White Mountain and Tawny

Plain, 67 186Hawksley, J. C.: note: Bouleau

Mountain, 61215Hearfield, B.: 'Climbs in the Cordillera

Vileabamba', 69 41Hedin, A. S.: obit., 59 77Heen, A. R.: 'Trollryggen from

Romsdal',64 183Helbling, Cerro: 1st asc., 65 241Heller, M.: his book: (with M. Milne)

The Book of European Skiing, 72 172Henderson, K. A.: North American

notes, 65 251, 67 355, 68 319, 69 297,70331,71316,72329,73268

Henry, P.: his book: (with L. Devies)La Chaine du Mont Blanc (III), 72 348

Herbert E. S.: valedictory address,613

'T. Graham Brown', 7151port., 62 84-5, 70 183

Herbetet: by S ridge, 64 268Herens, Dent d': by E ridge, 59 67

by N face (Welzenbach route), 64 266Hermitage, The: destroyed by fire,

63 129Herold, J. C. : his book: The Swiss with-

out Halos, 60 195Herrligkoffer, K. M.: his book: Nanga

Parbat, 60 179Herron, Rand: death, 60 178

24 H

Herschel, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc.,7394, 173

2nd asc., 73179ill., 73 180-1

Herzog, M.: his book: (with others)La Montagne, 6I 569

Hess, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 70 333Hewitt, H. B.: his book (editor): Peter

Graham, Mountain Guide: anAutobiography, 70 339

Hewitt, L. R.: 'The second attempt onMasherbrum', 6I 29

his book: (with M. Davidson) TheMountains of New Zealand, 60 425

obit., 69 320Hey, W. H.: obit. & port., 6I 194Hickson, J. W. A.: obit., 6I 366Hidden Peak (see Gasherbrum I)Hiebeler, T.:

his books: (editor) Berg und Mensch(I96I), 67 368

North Face in Winter, 68 158Combats pour l'Riger, 7I 183

Highest Mountains, the:ascs. of: 1857-1957,62 165

1956-8,641361959-61,663911962-7,73241

unclimbed at the end of 1957, 63131dates of ascs. of 8000 m peaks, 6g 289heights of, revised, 70 329numbers climbed, 7I 153

Hill, G.: 'Papsura: the summit climb',73 164

death, 73 165Hillary, E. P.: 'Everest, 1953. The last

lap', 59 235his books: High Adventure, 60 425

(with W. G. Lowe) East of &erest,6I422

No Latitude for Error, 66401(with D. Doig) High in the Thin

Cold Air, 68151Schoolhouse in the Clouds, 70 167

Hills, D. C.: his book: My Travels inTurkey, 69 307

Himalaya:summary of expeditions to:

1954,59462 1960,652461955,60385 1961,663891956, 6I 396 1962,6,3511957,63131 1963,683051958, 63 261 1964, 69 2891959,64245 1965,7° 330, 7I 153

expeditions: Creagh Dhu, 1953,60 58Hooker's journeys, 60 84before 1914 war, 62 71

Himalaya: expeditions:since 1939, 62 108scientific, 1960-1,66343Derbyshire, 1961,6851Schoolhouse, 69 23, 70 226by schoolboys, 69 201

heights & earthquakes in, 59 88expedition tariffs (Nepal), 6I 550obstruction in, 64 133notes, 65 246hints for aspirants, 68 36revised heights of highest mountains,

7°329Japanese 1st ascs. in, 7I 253see also p 58 below

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute:note on, 73 112

Himal Chuli: attempts, 6I 40, 64 245recce,64 1341st asc., 65 246ill., 6I 40

Himlung Himal: recce, 70 122Hindu Kush:

summary of expeditions to:1963, 6g 124 1966,72 1221964,70 120 1967,73891965,7I 136

expeditions:Polish, 1960, 66 235

1962,681211963,69274

Garmisch Partenkirchen, 1963,69249

Scottish, 1965, 7I 58Cambridge, 1966, 72 65

articles re in O.A.Z., 69 289topography, 7I 199travellers & surveyors in, 7I 202mountaineering history, 7I 205tax on expeditions to, 7I 313panorama of, 72 I7000 m peaks in, 72 13new map of, 73 IIOarchives, 73 I IIill., panorama of the high (Eastern),

726,7see also p 6 I below

Hindu Raj:ill., panorama from near Pechus,

736ofrom near Kan Khun, 73 61peaks above Madod valley, 73 62

Hingston, R. W. G.: obit., 7I 347Hinings, R.: note: keeping warm in

sleeping-bags, 72 313Hirondelles, Col des: attempt, 6, 222

ill., 67 219

Hispar Pass: cr., 60 15, 64 179Hiunehuli Patan: reece, 68 201Hjornespids: 1st ase., 66 256Hoary Peak (Talkeetna): 1St ase., 73 27 IHobday, S. R.: obit., 61 367Hochgebirgsfiihrer durch die Berner Alpen:

rev. of vol. V, 61 230vol. IV, 61 573

Hoekenhull, H. K.: 'Special oeeasion-July 14, 1965',70197

Hodge, E. W.:his books: The Northern Highlands,

59482(with W. W. Naismith) The Islands

of Scotland (excluding Skye),59 101

Hodgkinson, D. A.: obit., 64 286Hoeman, J. V.: 'Yukon Alpine

Centennial expedition', 73 22Hollingsworth, J. H.: obit., 63 II IHolmes, P. F.: 'Spiti, 1956',61458

his book: Mountains and a Monastery,64147

Holmes, Sherlock: & the TheodulePass, 59 345

Hong Kong: guide to rock climbs, 65119Hood, Mt: by Yocum ridge, 65 252Hooker, Mt (U.S.A.): by N face, 70 333Hooker, Sir J. D.: Himalayan journeys

summarised, 60 84Hope, R. F.: obit., 69 321Hornbein, T. F.: 'The ascent of

Masherbrum', 67 9his book: Everest: the West Ridge,

72176,338Horniblow, P. J.: 'Khinyang Chhish,

1962',68100Horrorhorn (Cordillera Vilcanota): 1st

ase., 6440Hosford, M.: 'Mountains of the Central

Australian Desert', 67 313Houston, C. S.:

his books: (with others) K 2 (8,6IImetres), 60 192

K 2: The Savage Mountain, 60 417Howard G. E.: obit. & port., 61197Howard, J. W.: 'Mount Kenya, 1939-

1952',60270'Safari in Nepal', 61 38'Lukenya',65 195notes: Kisoi Munyao, 69 141

Mount Kenya, 69 285Howard-Bury, C. K.: obit. & port.,

69 171Howser Peak: ase., 6519Howser Spire: attempt, 65 24

ill., 65 23

H 25

Hoyte, J.: his book: Trunk RoadforHannibal, 67 371

Huaeratanca: 1st asc. of NE Peak,70243

Huaerish Norte: 1st asc., 72146Huagaruneho: 1st ase., 61 441

ill., 60 72-3from Peak A, showing route of

1st ase., 61 440-1S face, 61 440-1

Huandoy: SPeak: new route via Wbuttress, 70 124, 144

ill., S Peak from E, 60 72-3from below Pisco, 69 94-5three peaks from E, 69 94-5

Huasearan: ase. of SPeak, 61 201ase., 64 115,65249attempt by E ridge, 66 2061st asc. by N face of N Peak, 72 146ill., from SW, 64 116

SPeak, 66 204-5N Peak from E, 69 94

Huayhuash, Cordillera: ases. in, 69 126ill., 60 72-3

Huaynaceapae: ases., 66 150Huayna Potosi: ase., 67 170Hudson, Rev Charles: biographical

notes, 63 123at the Eggishorn hotel, 63 254his climbing career, 71 117

Huggins, M t (Antarctica): 1St ase.,63241

Hugi, F. J.: his climbs, 68210Hulton, E.: port., 62 52-3Humble, B. H.: his book: The Cuiltin

of Skye, S995Humphreys, G. N. P.: note:

Ruwenzori, 61 214obit., 71 306

Hungabee, Mt: 1st winter asc., 72332Hunt, C. A.: death, 70 323Hunt, J.: 'Everest, 1953. Narrative of

the expedition', S9 107'Everest diary', S9 123'Up and down the Guggi', 61 480'After a hundred years', 62 I

'The Centenary meet at Zermatt,pages from a diary', 63 87

'British-Soviet Pamirs expedition,1962',6890

'The Tatras in September, 1965',7137

'The Yukon Alpine Centennialexpedition, 1967',73 18

valedictory address, 64 Inotes: British-Soviet Pamir expedi-

tion, 68 301

26 J

Hunt, J.: notes:loth anniversary of first ascent of

Everest, 68 304visit to Britain by Polish

mountaineers, 72 136U.I.A.A.,72 138Himalayan Mountaineering

Institute, 73 112his books: The Ascent of Everest,

59219, 347(with C. Brasher) The Red Snows,

65114Hunt, Lord: see Hunt, J.Hunter, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 59463,

6036ascs., 72 329ill., 60 32-3

Hunter, R. H. F.: 'The ReadingUniversity Andean expedition, 1962',68219

Huntington, J. F.: obit., 66184Huntington, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc.,

69275,703312nd asc., & 1st by W face, 71 15,316ill., from Mt Dan Beard, 68 256-7

NW ridge & W face, 71 14W face, 71 14-15

Hunza valley: geological survey, 68123Hurst, L. H.: 'The mountains of Crete',

65208note: Crete, 63 258

Hutton, H. 1.. : obit., 59 45 IHuxley, A.: his book (editor): Standard

Encyclopedia of the World'sMountains, 68 146

Hvannadlshnukur (Iceland): 1st asc.,69285

Hydro-electric schemes: 66 160

ICE-AXE:new type of, 73 265Iceland: 1st asc. of highest mountain in,

69285Ichac, M. : his book: Quand Brillent les

Etoiles de Midi, 66 405Ida, Mt (Crete): asc., 65 212Iguenouane (Atlas): asc., 67 69Illimani: Conway's asc., 60172Indian Peaks (Colorado): ascs. in, 71 33Indrasan: attempts, 66 390, 67 327,6853

1st asc., 68 123ill., from Hamtah Pass, 61 301

route on, 67 330from lower slopes of Deo Tibba,

67331Ingham, V.: 'Anne Lister's ascent of

Vignemale' , 73 199Inner Line: regulations available, 66 389

Iran: ascs. by French expedition, 60 176Irish, H. J. H.: obit., 67 154Irving, R. L. G.: 'Unclouded days,

1901-14',6262poem: The Under Fives, 61356his book: A History of British

Mountaineering, 60 420Iselin, F.: his book: (with A. G.

Spectorsky) Invitation to Ski-ing,5993

Isherwood, R. H.: obit., 65 266Isherwood, R. J.: 'More climbs in

Swat', 70 205Ishinca: asc., 72 126Island Peak (Himalaya): 3rd asc.,

70122Issa Khan: port., 61 456Isselin, H. :

his books: La Barre des Ecrins, 59476Les Aiguilles de Chamonix, 66402

Istor-o-Nal: 1st asc., 61 202. (But see7S 168)

1st ascs. of N & NE peaks, 72 328recce & ascs. in the massif of, 72 123

Italian Alpine Club: book reviewed,Alpinismo Italiano nel Mondo, S9 364

Italian Alps: in 1962,68 132Ixtaccihuatl: asc., 70 54

ill., 70 54Izzard, R.: his book: The Innocent on

Everest, 60 427

JACKSON,F. S.: note: the highestmountain in Bhutan, 72 325

port., 70 I I IJackson, J.: her book: The Turkish Time

Machine, 72 174Jackson, J. A.: 'The crossing of the

North and Central Staunings',66250

his book: More than Mountains, 61 219Jackson, M.: 'The Scottish Women's

Himalayan expedition', 61 60her book: (with E. Stark) Tents in the

Clouds, 61 423Jagdula: 1962 expedition to, 68 65Jahn, Pico: 1st asc., 67 284,337James, J. E.: obit., 71 194James, R.: 'A comparison of mountain

rescue stretchers used in Britain',73223

James, W. W.: obit., 71195Jancururish: 1st asc., 72146Jangi Tau: Schwarzgruber rib: attempt

63247,6470asc., 64 259ill., 64 72

Jannu: attempt, 64 2451St asc., 67351,71 165

Japan: modem mountaineering in, 71248ill., 71 252-3

Japuma, Nevado de: ascs., 65 86, 66 IS0tr., 66 IS Iill., views from summit, 60 282

Jardin, Aig. du: 1St asc. by CentralPillar of S face, 73 98

Jardin du Roy (Vercors): 1St asc. byNE Pillar, 64 268

Jarvis, Mt: 1St asc., 73 271Jatunhuma Peaks: attempts & 1St ascs.,

6439-40Jatunriti: 1st asc., 6442Jayal, N. D.: obit., 63 231Jazzi, Cima di: 1St direct asc. by S face,

65222Jeffrey, R.: obit., 61 368Jervis, S.: 'In the Cordillera Vilcanota',

6438Jirishhanca: 2nd asc., 72146

3rd asc., 73 II8111.,69 III

John of Austria, Archduke: centenaryof his death, 64241

note on, 65 230Jolly, A. R.: 'Hannibal's Pass: results

of an empirical test', 67 243Jonas, R.: death, 67 159Jones, C.: 'Dreamland', 73 64Jones, C. T.: note: (with J. Neill) climbs

in Wales, 67 173his book: (with J. Neill) Snowdon

South, 71 336Jones, J. H. Emlyn:

'Ama Dablam, 1959',65 IJones, M. F. R.: 'The mountains of

W okkpash', 66 42note: La Bruyere, 67 159death, 67 342

Jongsong Peak: narrow escape on,6663

Jorasses, Col des Grandes: cr., 67 220Jorasses, Grandes: by SE (Tronchey)

ridge, 59 205, 323Pte Margherita: 1st asc. by N face,

64 II7Pte Walker: by N face, 63 246,

64193, 2681St winter asc. by N face, 68 135

Pte Whymper: 1St direct asc. by Nface, 69 278

Pte Young: 1St asc. by N face, 64 II71St desc. by N face, 65 98

1St asc. by the Shroud, 70 317, 71 140correction re, 73 2583

K 27

J orasses, Grandes:ill., Tronchey ridge, 59 328

Walker buttress from Couvercle,64194

Jorasses, Petites: by W face, 63 244Jossi, Christian (Solm): obit., 61 209Juchina, Pik (Pamirs): asc., 73 28Jugal Himal: expedition to, 616oJuncal Nevado: 2nd asc. by N face,

67170ill., 64 232-3

Jungfrau: attempt, 61 480tr., 67 222extension of railway proposed, 67 346

Jungfraujoch: 1St aeroplane landing near,64242

record number of passengers to, 66 159

K 2: American attempt, 1953,59215,391

1st asc., 59462,603ill., from Concordia, 59 396

from Base Camp, 60 8summit, 609

K 6: reece, 67 77supposed attempt, 70 138, 329

K I2: reece, 66 148ill., panorama of country round,

63 188-9Kabru: attempt, 59 320

ill., massif from Yalung valley, 59 320from near summit of Kangchen-

junga, 60 220-1Ka~kar group (Turkey): expedition to,

~ 129ill., 69 94-5

Kagmara: asc. of three peaks of, 68 74Kagmara I: a peak of climbed, 70 257

ill., 68 70-1Kahusi, Mt (Belgian Congo): asc., 65 91Kaiko (Andes): 2nd asc., 6945Kailas, Mt: ill., from above Daschan,

66333Kain, C.: his book: Where the Clouds

Can Go, 60432Kaisergebirge: ascs. in, 1962,67341Kajan Pass (Hindu Kush): cr., 72 75Kaltenegger, P.: 'Dr. Julius Kugy',

7086note: Paul Preuss, 68 299

Kamet: 2nd asc., 60 385ill.,62 165

Kanesaka, 1.: note: Himal Chuli, 64 134Kangbachen: attempt, 71 153

ill., 60 220-1Kangchenjunga: 1954 recce expedition,

59428

Kangchenjunga:history, 60 831st asc., 60 207S.W. approach to, 61 213ill., 59428

from SW, 60 83SW face, 60 212S Peak from near summit, 60 220-1

Kangcho (Nepal): asc., 59 IIOKang Guru: 1st asc., 60 385Kangla Ka Chu La: cr., 70 112Kangtega: asc. of satellite re1k of,

621721st asc., 68 306, 69 30ill., from Base Camp, 69 30-1& Thamserku from NW, 7094

Kanjiroba:ill., from Kagmara Lekh, 68 70, 70-1

from 19,000 ft on Lha Shamma,70252-3

from Bhulu Lhasa, 70 252-3Kanjiroba Himal: expeditions to, 66 390,

6865peak attempted, 68 70

asc. of, 68 73article re in G.J.,73 I ISill., 67 126-7, 68 70-1

Kanjut Sar: 1st asc., 64 245,260,6589Karakoram:

expeditions:Italian, 1954,60 3Imperial College, 1957,63 185R.A.F., 1961, 6773

spelling of, 67 348communications on 1962 expedition,

6998meaning of the word, 69 144see also p 59 below

Karwendel: ascs. in, 1962,67341Kasbek: 1st asc., 60 113Kasiri (Andes): asc., 69 219Kasiri Aguja: asc., 69 218Kasparek, F.: death, 60 170Kasper, Hans: death, 59458Kates Needle (Coast range): 2nd ase.,

71300Kay, R.: obit., 60 406Keenlyside, F. H.: relinquishes Editor-

ship of AlpineJournal, 67154Keitz, J.: note on, & port., 67 160Kelly, N.: 'Expedition film work on

high mountains', 73 35Kempe, J. W. R.: 'The Yalung Valley,

1953',59316'Kangchenjunga reconnaissance,

1954',59428'Invitation accepted', 61 435

Kempf, B. : his book: Guide Pratiquede la Montagne, 68 156

Kennedy, E. S.: port., 62 24Kennedy, Mt (Yukon): naming of, 70 137

1st & 2nd ascs., 71 149correction re 1St asc., 71 314

Kenya, Mt: ascs.: 64212,213,69276,71321,72336,7394

Batian: by N face, 69 84Nelion: 1st asc. by NE Pillar, 69 259

1st asc. by E face, 69 276by normal route, 69 276

Pt Lenana: ascs., 64 212, 69 86,277Pt Peter: by N ridge, 69 86Sendeyo: asc., 69 84Tereri: asc., 69 84

by a new route, 69 277Grand Traverse, 69 304, 70 294new routes on, 65 245. 67 365new map of, 59 465, 70 137history, 60 270new hut on, 65 245accident, 67 364flag raising on, 69 141, 285ill., main peaks from N, 60 272

from SE (with normal route),60272-3

S face from Pt John (route), 60 272-3from Two Tarn Col (routes),

60273from S (routes), 60 274Batian & Nelion, 64 208, 70 284-5Nelion, E face, 64 209, 69 244-5

SE face 70284-5N face, 69 78--<)NE face, showing existing routes,

69244-5Kerguelen: ice-cap explored, 66 55Kero Lungma gl.: ascs. from, 65 40, 42Kerr, A. C.: obit., 66419Kesch, Piz: narrow escape on, 66 58Kesha La: cr., 70 IIIKhan Shai (Swat Kohistan): asc., 67 52Khan Tengri: ill., 61324-5Khinyang Chhish: attempt & accident,

67 342, 68 100ill., 66 7S ridge, 68 103

Khorabort Zom: asc., 71 136Khorpusht-e-Yakhi: 1st asc., 66 248Khumbu Himal: new map of, 71152Kihara, H.:

his books: Fauna and Flora of NepalHimalaya, 61 228

Land and Crop of Nepal Himalaya,61574

Peoples of Nepal Himalaya, 63 143

Kilgour, H.: 'The Green Abyss: onbeing nearly drowned at ChairLadder, Cornwall', 73 216

Kilimanjaro :ascs.: 65 237, 66 388, 68 301, 69 87,

3061st of Kirsten g1., 68 3252nd & 1st solo by Decken g1., 69 305Mawenzi: 1st by E face, 7°125,

7I3223rd of Heim g1., 7I 322

notes on, 60 96height, 60 97flag raising on, 67 166, 365parachutists land on, 67 347Kaiser Wilhelmspitze renamed, 70 328ill., 69 78-<)

Kinabalu: northern approaches of, 63 271st asc. by N face, 70 125

King, W. W.: obit., 65 93Kingspitz (Engelhorner): origin of

name, 69 143, 290Kinshofer, T.: death, 70 135Kishmi Khan: ascs. 69 274

ill., 7I 212Kisoi Munyao: his ascs., 69 141Knowles, G. J. F.: obit., 64 288Knox, C. F.: death, 70 133Knox, H. V.: obit., 65 225Knubel, Josef: death, 66 380

obit., 67 205Ziircher's paper on, 67269port., 67 206, 270

Kogan, C.: her book: (with R. Lambert)White Fury, 6I 565

death, 65 90Kogan, G.: his book: (with N.

Leininger) The Ascent of Alpamayo,60 187

Koh-e-Bandaka: location of, 68137ascs.: 2nd, 69 250

3rd,7I 136by N face, 7I 1365th,72 1226th, 73 907th, & 1st by S face, 73 90

il1., from Sakhi valley, 69 244-5N & main summits, 69244-5

Koh-e-Bandaka-Sakhi: 1St ase., 69 250Koh-e-Bandaka-Tawika: 1st ase., 7I 136Koh-e-Bandaka Uris: 1st ase., 71 136Koh-e-Ka-Jurm: il1., 69 244-5Koh-e-Ka Safed: 4th & 5th ases., 73 90Koh-e-Piv: ill., & Kolla-e-Miinehen

from N, 71 212-13Koh-i-Askival: 1St ase., 716oKoh-i-Batzenhiiusl: 1st ase., 73 211

K 29

Koh-i-Bay Qara: ase., 7°121Koh-i-Chhateboi: 1st ase., 73 212Koh-i-Chiantar: 1st ase., 73 209Koh-i-Chrebek: 2nd ase., 7159Koh-i-Kesnikhan: 1St ase., 69124Koh-i-Mareheeh: 1st ase. of N Summit,

7I60Koh-i-Nadir Shah: 2nd ase., 7°120Koh-i-Parshui: 1st & 2nd ases., 72 310

ill., 72 306Koh-i-Sisgeikh: 1st ase., 7159Koh-i- Tundy Shagai Sha: 1st ase., 72 310Koh-i-Warghut: 1st ase., 73 212Koh-i-Yajun ('Py'): 1st ase., 73 91Kohli, M. S.: 'Nine on the summit of

Everest', 7I IKoktang: attempt, 59 319

il1., 59 319Kolahoi Northern g1.: description of,

68 138Kolb, F.: his book: Himalaya Venture,

64273Kondus- Kaberi: topography of the

aiguilles of, 72 140ill., 72 140, 141

Kondus Peak: 1St ase., 64173Kongen (Norway): 1st ase. by E face

direct, 73 104ill., 73 63

Kophino Vouno (Crete): descriptionof, 65 213

Korzhenevskaya, Pik: 1st ase., 61328Koshtantau: by N ridge, 64 260

ill., 60 352Kosterlitz, J. M.: 'Yerupaja', 72 284Kotgaz Zorn: 1st ase., 72 122, 229

2nd ase., 72 230ill., 72 210-II

Kubor, Mt (New Guinea): 1st ase.,7°314

Kuen Lun: note on, 69 286Kugy, Julius: reminiscences of, 70 86Kuh-e-Awar: 1st ase., 69 274Kuh-e-Mandaras: ill., 71212-13Kuh-e-Uparisina: ill., 7I 212-13Kulu: search for Abominable Snowman

in, 63 223Derbyshire expedition to, 1961,

67323,6852see also p 60 below

Kulu Makalu: 1st ase., 68 54Kulu Pumori: 1st ase., 69 274, 70 79

2nd ase., 70 83ill., 70 78-9

Kulu Spiti divide: glaciers of, 59 288Sherborne expedition to, 64 254

Kunzam Peak, South: 1St ase., 61282

30 L

Kurdistan: climbing in Turkish, 71133Kurz, M.:

his books: Chronique Himalayenne,I940-I955,65 II8, 66 389, 424

Part II, 69 314death, 72 320obit. & port., 73 129

Kuwabara, T.: 'The first ascent ofChogolisa', 64 168

Kwaja Muhammad range: ascs. in, 72 122

LACHENAL,L.: death, 61 210Ladkin, R.: death, 60 382Lady mountaineers: 62 12,44Lahul: ascs. in, 60 62

expeditions to, 61 45, 279history of exploration & climbing in,

61290bibliography, 61 292ill., 61 280-3see also p 60 below

Lai Blau, Fuorcla del: 1st tourist cr.,59456

Lake District: afforestation in, 60 171litter & telephone wires in, 66161

Lama Surjang: asc., 60 262Lambert, R.:

his books: (with G. Chevalley &R. Dittert) Avant-Premieres aI'Everest, 59 352

(with C. Kogan) White Fury, 61 565Lamjung Peak: attempt, 73 249Lamjung Pinnacle East: asc., 73 250Lampugnani, G.: port., 59299Langar peaks (Hindu Kush): ascs., 70 121Langcha: asc., 62 171Langford, R. E.: 'The Cambridge Arctic

Canada expedition, 1961, to Cum-berland Peninsula, Baffin Island', 67 97

Langmuir, E.: note: Mountain RescueService in Czechoslovakia, 73 260

Langtrang Himal: attempt on highestpeak, 66 390

expedition to, 68 291asc. of peak in, 68 306nomenclature in, 69 287

Langu gorge(Nepal): passage of, 70 259Languta-e-Barf: 1st asc., 69 274

1st asc. of S peak from Rosh Gol,72328

Lanin: 1st & subsequent ascs., 67163Lasonayoc: 2nd asc., 69 61

ill.,6946---7Lauitor: 2nd cr., 59 59Laupersbjoerg (Greenland): 2nd asc.,

72142ill., 72 21Q-II

Lauteraarjoch: accident, 1880,60172Lavaredo, Tre Cime di:

Cima Grande:N face: ascs., 61541,64267,

65 184, 70247by via direttissima, 64 122, 267,

651821st winter, 66 3851st winter by new direct route,

68135grading of, 66 194

ill., N face (routes), 65 184-5Cima Ovest:

N face: ascs., 64 267, 65184,67 30,68225

by via direttissima, 65 891st winter, 60 171

Cima Piccola: by Spigolo Giallo,61 541, 70 300

description of route, 66157by SW face of Anticima Sud, 64 267

Cima Piccolissima: by Preuss Riss,64267

Lefroy, Mt: 1st winter asc., 72 332Left Guardian (Pamirs): 1st tr. by N

face & NE ridge, 73 28Lehmann, C. T.: obit., 61528Leifer, W.: his book: Himalaya,

Mountains of Destiny, 68 157Leininger, N.: her book: (with G.

Kogan) The Ascent of Alpamayo, 60 187Lenin, Pik: ascs., 64 246,7331

1st asc. by E face, 73 311st desc. by N face, 73 32ill., 61 324-5,7322-3

Lenzspitze: tr. to Nadelhorn, 65 218Leon, El (Venezuela): asc., 67 285Leonard, R. G.: his book: Nepal and

the Gurkhas, 71 178Leopold II, H.M. King: interest in

mountaineering, 63 123Leschaux, Aig. de: new asc. by W arc~te,

69 2781st asc. by SW arete integrale, 70 128by NE face, 73 99

Lha Shamma (Nepal): attempts, 68 70,70258

1st asc., 68 73Lho La: origin of name, 60 132

reached from S, 60 384Lhotse: attempt, 61213

1st asc., 61247ill., from West Cwm, 59 II4

from c. 27,000 fton Everest, 62 242-3& Chamlang from summit of

Everest, 69 ISLindsay, C. S.: obit., 67 379

Ling, W. N.: obit., 59 336Linsbauer, A.: 'A visit to the Chiantar

glacier region, Eastern Hindu Kush,1967',73207

Lion, Col du: 1st cr., 60123Liotard, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 67228Lipscomb, G.: obit., 59 335Lister, Anne: her asc. of Vignemale,

73199Lister, G. A.: obit., 59 82Lister, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 68 301Lloyd, P.: 'Climbing in Turkish

Kurdistan', 71 133Lloyd, R. W.: obit. & port., 63 232Lobuje Peak: asc. of W summit, 62171Lochmatter, Alexander: biographical

note, 70 203Lochmatter, Franz: memorial tablet to,

63126Lochmatter, Gabriel: death, 63 126Lochmatter, Joseph-Marie: biographical

note, 70 203Lochmatter, Rafael: death, 65 236Lofoten Islands: ascs. in, 7°132Logan, Mt:

E Peak: 1st asc. by E ridge, 64 542nd asc., 65 251

2nd asc. by E ridge, 67 358by a new route, 70 332tr., 71316,73271by W ridge, 72 330by original route, 72 3311st asc. by ESE ridge, 73 91by Catenary ridge, 73 272ill., 64 54

Logan Mts: ascs. in, 67 359, 69127,7123, 317

ill.,71 ISLomnica (Tatra): 1st asc., 71 40Longland, J. H.: 'Cambridge on Puma-

sillo', 63 9'Bons rochers, belle varappe', 68 116

Longland, J. L.: 'Between the wars',6283

Longley-Cook, H. St V.: note: the Sridge of the Salbitschijen, 59 87

Longman, W.: port., 6216Longs Peak (Colorado): 3rd asc. of the

Diamond, 73 91ill., 71 30

Longstaff, T. G.: 'Fifty years ago', 62 133obit., 69 322, 7°133port., 69 323

Lonpo Gang: attempt, 66 3901st asc., 67351

Lotschental: threatened ruination of,67 157

L 31

Louis, Mt: by new route on S face,7°333

Lourousa: asc., 70 222Lovat, L. S.: his book (S.M. C.) :

Climber's Guide to Glencoe andArdgour, vol. 1,65 120

Lowe, W. G.: 'The Barun expedition,1954',60227

note: international film festival, 64123

his books: (with E. P. Hillary) Eastof Everest, 61 422

Because it is There, 65 I I ILowndes, W. G.: obit., 61529Loyacjirca, Nevado: 2nd asc., 65 221

3rd asc., 69 226L-S, P.: his book: Record of an Ascent,

66409Lugmayer, K.: 'The North face of the

Schermberg in Winter', 70 286Luis de Savoya: see Yagan, CerroLukan, K.:

his books: Die Alpen vom MontVentoux bis zum Kahlenberg,65258

(with C. W. F. Noyce) The Alps,66407

Lukenya: climbs on, 65195Lunkho group: ill., from Camp 2 on

Kotgaz Zorn, 72 210-1 I

Lunn, A.: 'Human nature in the Valais',60135

'Alpine controversies', 62 144'Geoffrey Winthrop Young', 66100,

169letters re, 66195,424,67210

'The Swiss pioneers', 68 205'Whymper again', 71 228notes: Whymper's engravings, 59 344

Othmar Gurtner, 64 128his books: The Story of Ski-ing, 59 93

Zermatt and the Valais, 60 430A Century of Mountaineering, 62190The Bernese Oberland, 63 267The Swiss and their Mountains,

69148Matterhorn Centenary, 70 353Unkilledfor so long, 73 279

Lupke Brakk: asc., 64180Lyngen Peak II: ill., 60 278Lyngen Peninsula: winter mountain-

eering in, 60 276Lys, Col de: crossed by a dog, 60 378Lyskamm: tr., 59 23, 63 87

by NW ridge, 59455by NE face, 6393, 64 2681st winter asc. by NE face, 68 298

32 M

M, AIG. DE L': ascs., 66152by NE ridge, 59 324by Couzy route, 69 96

M 2 (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 69 274Mabu Pass: cr., 67129'Maccabeo' (dog): death, 70 134MacCarthy, A. H.: obit., 6:1:530Macha Puchare: attempt, 62 I I 3

attempts banned by NepaleseGovernment, 69 147

ill., from W, 62 II6from above Camp IV, 62 II6-17from Annapurna IV, 67 336S face from Mardi Himal, 67 337from Camp 3 on Gangapurna,7:1:78-9

Machin, C. B.: obit., 69174MacInnes, H.: 'The Creagh Dhu

Himalayan expedition, 1953',6058'A first ascent on Mount Cook', 6:1:330'No Yeti in Kulu', 63 223'The South-West Pillar; Bonatti route

on the Petit Dru', 64 25'The traverse of Shkhelda', 67 54'In the footsteps of the masters',

64193port., 60 58, 6:1:456

Mackay, A. M.: obit., 6:1:208Mackay, D.: 'Thamserku', 70 90Mackenzie, FitzArundell: biographical

note, 70 203Mackinnon, T.: 'Scottish Nepal

expedition, 1952',59417Macphee, G. G.: obit., 68 353MacRobert, H.: his book: The Central

Highlands, 59 100obit.,60 155

Magni, F.: port., 59 299Magnone, G.: his book: La Face W. des

Drus, 59 471Maiktoli: 2nd asc., 66 390Maillard, C.: 'Greenland Sud', 6318Mailleux, R.: his book: Le Roi Albert

Alpiniste,63 145Makalu: American attempt, 1954,60 175

French recce, 1954,601751st asc., 6:1:13attempt, 66 359desc. from, 1961,68 IIill., from tributary gl. of Barun, 59 17

from Base Camp, 60 230-1from summit of Pethangtse, 60 232W face, 6:1:25,6814

Makalu II: 1st asc., 60175Makrong Chhish: ill., 66 6Malartic, Y.: his book: La Conquete de

L' Everest par le Sherpa Tenzing, 59355

Malczewski, A.: note on, 6:1:394Mallory, G. L.: early climbs, 73 265Malubiting: 1st asc. of E Peak, 65 46

note on the group, 67 167ill., E Peak from Camp 3, 65 39

massif of, 67168Manaslu: Japanese attempt prevented,

594621st asc., 6:1:3961st asc. of N Peak, 70122

Manaslu II: attempt, 66 390Mankial: letter re 1st asc., 67408

asc., 70 209ill., 70 213

Maps: early Alpine, 62 5,13-14,18,48Central Elburz, 63 207Everest region, 63 255Ruwenzori, 64 60, 256, 67 364Mt McKinley, 66 164Andes of Venezuela, 69 122Mt Kenya, 59465,7° 137geological of Mt Blanc massif, 70 352Khumbu Himal, 7:1:152Afghanistan, 72 324Hindu Kush, 73 110see also lists in Special Districts

indexMaraini, F.: 'The Italian expedition to

Gasherbrum IV', 64 155'A Roman flag on Saraghrar Peak',

65 151'The South face of Mount McKinley',

68108his books: Karakoram, 67 184

Where Four Worlds Meet, 70163Marbore, Tour du: N face: attempt,

6:1:542Marchart, D.: 'The North face of the

Matterhorn', 67 26death, 68 131

Marcus, R. B. : her book: The Book ofGlaciers, 68 334

Marcus Baker, Mt: 2nd asc., 72 330Mardi Himal (Nepal): 1st asc., 67 336Marindin, G. E.: long membership of

A.C., 59 214Mariner, W.: his book: Mountain Rescue

Techniques, 70 348Markbreiter, C. G.: obit., 68 355Marmolada (Bugaboo): 1st asc. by S.

face, 65 23ill., 65 22-3

Marmolada (Dolomites): by S face,6733,70299

1st winter asc. by S face, 72 323Marmolejo: ill., & Marmolejo Norte

from NW, 68 224-5

Maroon Bells (Colorado): ill., NE faces,7230-1

Marsden, A. D.: his book: ClimbingGuide to Gibraltar, 71 183

Masherbrum: attempts, 60 385, 61 29,63169

1st asc., 65 248, 67 9ill., from Base Camp, 61 32

SE face (route), 63 173,67 14-15showing twin summits, 63180summit & W Peak, 67 22

Mason, K.:note: a new map of Everest, 63 255

the new map of Mt McKinley, 66164

a new map of the Khumbu Himal,71 152

his book: Abode of Snow, 60416Matathumba (Nepal): 1st asc., 67 126

ill.,67126-7Matchu Suchi Coochi (Andes): asc.,

65176Mather, J. N.: 'The Peuterey ridge',

594°2Mathews, C. E.: port., 62 34Mathews, W.: port., 6216Matri: asc. disputed, 69 146Matterhorn :

1st asc.: rope broken on, 60 381Taugwalder's narrative, 61 484notes on, 61 493effects of the accident, 62 39apparition on, 62 182Hadow's boots on, 63124fees paid to the Taugwalders,

63255centenary of, 70 7

celebrations at Zermatt, 70 191corrections & additions to

articles re, 70 323documents relating to, 70 ISevents after the disaster, 70 199comments on the accident, 71 124

E face: 2nd asc., 59 46 I1st winter, 64 247

N face:ascs.: 59 462, 61 542, 65 88, 66 377,

67261st solo, 67 291st winter, 67 1571st winter solo, 70 3174th winter, 73 43

W face: 1st direct asc., 68126SW ridge: solo asc., 60 378SE (Furggen ridge): 1st British direct

asc., 64 268other ascs., 67 340

M 33

NW (Zmutt) ridge: accident, 64 248and the early guides, 6z 22'1st asc.', 63127asc., 64 310

solo, 70 197tr., 67 223

solo, 67 85attempts by Parker brothers, 68 285some dates in the history of, 70 8random thoughts on, 70 38an impression from Italy, 7043four ar~tes in one day, 72 131televised asc., 1965,72246ill., 59 202, 70 14

E face, 61 488S face, 6248Zmutt ar~te & Tiefenmatten face,

6249N face, 67 26party of 1st asc., 7014-15from the Hohbalm, 7015

Maudit, Mt: by frontier ridge, 63 246,69 96

1st asc., by Brenva face direct, 64 269ill., N face, 66 79

Maurys, Pierre: death, 69 291Mauthner, M. K.: obit., 60156Mayo gl.; ill., 65 164-5Mayo, P. W. F.: obit., 64249McArthur, H.: 'Central Lahul', 61 279

obit., 64 102McArthur, Mt (Alaska): asc., 67 358McCall, J. B. : note: climbs in Ireland,

65106McCauley, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 65 251McClymont, W. G.: his book: The

Exploration of New Zealand, 64 276McDonald, A. H.: 'Hannibal's passage

of the Alps', 61 93McKinley, Mt:

ascs.: 1st from S, 59463of N Peak, 59463,67 3551st by NW buttress, 60311st by S buttress & 1st tr., 60 176,

367by Japanese climbers, 65 222, 713171st British, 67 348, 71 19by S face, 67 355, 68 108by Pioneer Ridge, 67 3551st by E spur, 68 3191st by Wickersham Wall, 69 127by W buttress, 67 356, 70 331,

72329total ascs. to date, 67 3571st winter, 72 329, 73 268various, 67 356, 68319,72329

accidents, 60 176, 368,7391,268,269

34 M

McKinley, Mt.:new routes on, 65 251, 69 297new map of, 66 164attempt by Wickersham Wall, 67 356Services expedition to, 7r. 19renaming of twin peaks of, 7r. 149ill., NW buttress, 60 32

route taken on 1st asc. of S buttress,60368

S face, 68 110from S, 7r. 14-15

McMorris, W. B.: his book: The RealBook of Mountaineering, 67 194

McNaught, W.: obit., 59 210McNaught-Davis, I.: 'The Hjornespids',

66 256'British-Soviet Pamirs expedition,

1962' (part II), 68 243Meade, C. F.: his book: High Mountains,

6019°,439note: Pierre Blanc, 7r. 146

Mears, R. P.: obit., 67155Meciani, P.: his book: Le Ande: mono-

grafiageografico-alpinistica, 7r. 181, 339Medagstind (Norway): asc., 60 278

ill., 60 279Medicine: high altitude, 59 493Medley, J. F.: obit., 65 224Meets (other than A.C.): Army

Mountaineering Assoc., 65 214,66 155

French International, 1967,739Meier, K. E.: death, 70 143Meije, Breche de la: cr., 64 263Meije, La: 1st winter asc. by S face,

62178tr., 64 263, 67 219rock fall on, 69 283by W face, 72 99, 73 96by S face, 73 96

Meiling, 0.: 'Mount San Valentin',59432

Melbourne, W. H.: 'The ImperialCollege expedition to the Nudo deApolobamba, 1959',65 175

Mengel, E. C.: obit., 65 267Menlung gl.: ill., 6r. 56-7Mensforth, E.: 'A note on access to the

High Atlas, Southern Morocco', 6771Menzies, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc.,

67166Mera La: reached, 59 109Mercanton, P. L.: death, 69 282Mercedario: new route & accident on,

65242Mercers Peak (Wokkpash): 1st asc., 66 47

ill., 66 46

Merezenbachliicke: 1st tourist cr.,59457

Merida, Sierra Nevada de: expeditionto, 67 280

bibliography, 67 286ill., 67 282-3

Merrick, H.: 'Everest: the Chinesephotograph', 67 310, 6848

his books: Out of the Night, 63 144The Great Motor Highways of the

Alps, 64 145, 67 195The Perpetual Hills, 70 169

Merriman, S.de V.: obit., 6r. 532Mexico: mountains of, 70 48Meyer family: their climbs, 68 209Meyer, H. A.: 'The Centenary Recep-

tion-A Royal Occasion', 63 80Middleton, D.: her book: Victorian

Lady Travellers, 70 169Middleton, L. M.: 'The Campanile

Basso di Brenta, 1899-1959',66 304Midgard, Mt (Baffin Island): 1st asc.,67102

Midi, Aig. du: by route Rebuffat, 63 2451st asc. of N Summit by W ridge,

65222by SE face, 66 152by new route on Chamonix side,

672192nd asc. by central eperon of N face,

7°314Midi, Dents du: 1st asc. by NE ridge

integrale, 70 316Migot, A.: his book: Tibetan Marches,

60189Migot, Pte: 1st asc. by N eperon,

69278, 70 129Mills, E. J. E.: 'The Parachute Brigade

Alaska expedition, 1956',62121'The A.M.A. Alpine meet, 1959',

65214'Two journeys in Swat Kohistan', 6742his book: Airborne to the Mountains,

67189death, 67 342obit., 67 380

Milne, M.: his book: (with M. Heller)The Book of European Skiing, 72 172

Milner, C. D.: 'A century of mountainphotography', 62 157

his book: Mont Blanc and theAiguilles, 60 428

Minapin (Diran): attempt, 63 261Mingbo Saddle: cr., 60 238Minya Konka: note on 1st asc., 63 130

2nd asc., 63 194ill., 63 196-7

Mir Samir: attempts, 6:1:538,661403rd asc., 721225th asc., 73 90ill., from SE, 6:1:538

from col into Nuristan, 72 62-3Mishirgi Tau: by S buttress, 64 260Mitchell, G. A.: death, 70 133Mitchell, Mrs: death, 63 134Mitre (Aling gl.): asc., 67 81Mitre (Andes): asc., 69 43

ill., 69 46-7Mitre Peak (New Zealand): by a new

route, 70 334Moffat, G.:

her books: Space below my Feet, 66 41 ITwo Star Red, 70 173On my Home Ground, 73 279

Moine, Aig. du: tr., 6:1:78asc., 6:1:540by E face, 66 152

Moine-Nonne, Breche: 1st desc. by Eface, 59465

Momhil Sar: 1st asc., 70 69ill., 70 78-9

Monch:ascs.: 6:1:338

1st from Wengernalp, 59 562nd from Wengernalp, 59 591st winter, 59 601st winter asc. by N face, 68 298by N face, 69 133

Mongejura (Norway): 1st asc. by S face,731°3

Moni-La: cr., 60 51Montanvert: in the eighteen-nineties,

63216Montgomrey, J. E.: obit., 70 369Monton Rojo (Chile): 1st asc., 67 170Monzino, G.:

his books: Spedizioni d' Alpinismo inGroenlandia, 72 342

Spedizioni d'Alpinismo in Africa,72343

Moore, A. W.: 'The Caucasus in 1874',60 305, 6:1:123

port., 60 306, 62 25Mooser, Kaspar: death, 7:1:148Moose's Tooth (Alaska): 1st asc. of W

Peak, 68 2631st asc., 69 276, 70 331

Mora, M.: his book: (with J. Franco)Ski de France, 67 372

Morado, Cerro Falso (Chile): ill., &Morado,6717°

Moravec, F.: 'Dhaulagiri, 1959', 65 I I

Morin, N.: her book: A Woman's Reach.Mountaineering Memoirs, 73 282

M 35

Morris, James: 'Climbing from theoutside', 69 63

his book: Coronation Everest, 63 266Morris, John:

his books: Hired to Kill, 66 410A Winter in Nepal, 69 158

Morrish, R. L.: 'The Banff-JasperHighway, 1952',5933

Morrison, A. M.: port., 72 274Morrison, C.: his Alpine expeditions,

72327Morrison-Bell, A. C.: obit., 6:1:369Morteratsch, Piz: an early asc., 63 46Moscow-Peking Peak: 1st asc., 64 246Moseley, R.: 'The Petit Dru by the

West face', 6025Mostowski, J.: 'In the Tatra Mountains',

6826Moulam, A. J. J.: British Isles notes,

70146,7:1: 154,72151his books: Cwm Idwal, 69 313

Carneddau, 72 349Mould, D. D. C. P.: his book: The

Mountains of Ireland, 6:1:230Mountain nomenclature: suggested

principles, 7:1:144Mountain rescue: Lyons section of the

C.A.F. on, 62 183,in Czechoslovakia, 73 260

Mountain World, The: reviewed:1954, 60 191 1962-3, 69 3 II1955,6:1: 225 1964-5,7:1: 3341956-'7, 64 141 1966-7, 732831958-9,64141

Mountaineer and the law, the: 60 379,6:1:209

Mountaineering:survey of: in earliest times, 62 4

1854-65, 62 161865-80,62391880-1900,62521901-14,62621919-39,62831939-56, 62 98Polish, 72 103

& the Press, 66 159mass,66159hereditary, 66 160

Mountaineering journals: reviewed,59222, 484, 6°433, 6:1:579,63 154,267,64149,65 121,66 179,413,67196,68159,337,69164,314,70175,354,7:1: 185, 34°,72 171,179,351,73127,292

Mountains: in art, 62 10electrical observations from, 63 259

Mouse: a venturesome, 64 131

Mrigthuni: attempt, 60 2571Stasc., 63 261

Mukar Beh: 1Stasc., 73 245attempt & accident, 73 246ill., 73 244-5

Mulgrew, P.: his book: No Place forMen, 7x 182

Mulhacen: winter asc., 68 62Milller, Abraham: death, 68 300Mummery, A. F.: an unrecorded

expedition, 59216notes on, 60 II8election to Alpine Club, 60 120, 127,

437letter from Nanga Parbat, 60 130as a climber, 63 218, 221port., 60 120, 121,6252-3

Mummery, Mrs A. F.: port., 60 121Munjan Pass: ascs. from, 72 122Munos Gamero Peninsula: visited,

67267Murallon, Cerro (Patagonia): summit

ridge reached, 67 257ill., 67 251

Murray, A. E.: obit., 68170Murray, A. G.: obit., 63 238Murray, G. W.: 'How the hangman

lost his drop', 66 85his book: Dare me to the Desert, 73 126obit. & port., 7x 348

Murray, W. H.:his books: The Scottish Himalayan

Expedition, 59 85The Story of Everest, 59 220Highland Landscape, 67 375Mountaineering in Scotland, 68 157(with J. E. B. Wright) The Craft of

Climbing, 70 172Mustagh (Swat): by NW ridge, 7x 215Mustagh Ata: 1Stasc., 6x 549, 6478

asc. by Chinese women, 64 258Muztagh Tower: 1Stasc., 6x 253

2nd asc., 6x 396ill., from SE, 6x 252

from SW, 6x 253E summit, 6x 261

Myth: an Antarctic, 65 236

NAEss,A.: 'Some ethical considerationswith a view to mountaineering inNorway', 73 230

Naismith, W. W.: his book: (with E. W.Hodge) The Islands of Scotland(excluding Skye), 59 101

Nakao, S.: his book: Living HimalayanFlowers, 7X 180

Nalumasortoq: ill., 68 256-7

Nampa: identified, 59425ill., 59424-5

Nanda Devi: attempt, 66 3902nd asc., 69 290

Nanda Kot: 2nd asc., 64 245Nanga Parbat: 1st asc., 59 216,371

Diamir face: attempt, 67 1691Stasc. by, 67 35I

Rupal face: attempt, 69 289Nangpa La: cr., 5913Nau Lekh: asc., 60 237Negri, -: port., 59 299Negri, N. C.: 'Aspects of winter

mountaineering in the NorwegianArctic', 60 276

Negruni Range (Andes): ascs. in,68221,222

ill., 68 224Nehru Institute of Mountaineering:

foundation of, 7X148Neill, J.: note: climbs in Wales, 65 103,

67173his books: Selected Climbs in the

Pennine Alps, 67 376(with T. Jones) Snowdon South,

7x 336Nelson, M.: 'Astray in the Andes',

69 217Nelson, P. S.: obit., 64 104Nepal: Scottish expedition, 1952,59417

Tyson's expedition: 1953,59421to West, 1961, 6x 120

1964,70254ban on mountaineering expeditions

to, 70329see also p 6I below

Nesthorn:ascs.: by SE ridge, 59 208, 345

by N face: 2nd, 6x 2083rd, 65 2224th, 67 158

Nettleton, C. W.: obit., 68 170Nevada, Sierra (Spain): winter

expedition to, 68 61Nevada, Sierra (U.S.A.): ascs. in,

69298new ascs. in, 73 274

Nevis, Ben: annual race, 68136Newby, P.: 'Journey to the Blue Valley',

7265New Guinea: expedition to, 66 394,6878

Newton, H. E.: note: A. C. Graham,63127

obit., 67 382Newton, Mt (Alaska): 1Stasc., 70 332Newton, Mt (Spitsbergen): asc., 66 167

New Zealand: air survey of SouthernAlps, 59442, 60 365

early climbs in, 62 75conditions in, 6275notes, 60 143, 391,61 399,63 135,

264,64251,65249,66 393, 67 366,68323,69 300, 70 334, 71319,72334,73275

see also p 63 belowNgojumba Ri:

1st asc.: 70 330, 73 lIScorrect date of, 72 141

il1.,73 23Nicholas Nickleby: quotation from,

69 181Nicol, H. G.: 'The North face of Mount

Kenya and other climbs', 69 81Nilgiri: 1st asc. of N Peak, 68 139

il1.,59 303Nilkanta:

1st asc.: 66 390disputed, 68 139,69 145

Ninashhanca: attempts, 69 lIONobaisum Zorn: 1st asc., 73 89Nock, P.: his book: Rock Climbing,

68334Noelting, F. A. M.: obit., 70 370North America: see P 55 belowNorth American notes: 65 251, 67 355,

68319,69 297, 70 331, 71316,72 329, 73 268

Norton, E. F.: obit. & port., 60157Norway: ascs. in, 67 338, 68 291

heights of highest mountains in,67347

ethical considerations re mountain-eering in, 73 230

see also p 54 belowNoshaq:

ascs.: 1st and 2nd, 66 2443rd,69 1241st of W Peak, 69 124

ill., S ridge, 66 244-5& Kuh-e-Mandaras, 71 212-13

Nowill, S. E. P.: 'Sat Dag, Hakkari,1966',72 II7

Noyce, C. W. F.: 'Climbing the Fish'sTail', 62 II3

'Nordwands for the ageing', 65 27'Ascent of Trivor', 66 9'Climbing solo in the High Atlas',

6765his books: (with E. C. Pyatt) British

Crags and Climbers, 59 101South Col, 60 183(with G. W. Young & G. Sutton)

Snowdon Biography, 61561

o 37

Noyce, C. W. F.: his books:The Gods are Angry, 63 143The Springs of Adventure, 63 266Climbing the Fish's Tail, 64 139(with G Sutton) Samson: The Life

and Writings of MenloveEdwards, 65 253

Poems,66173(with K. Lukan) The Alps, 66407To the Unknown Mountain, 67191They Survived, 68 143The Climber's Fireside Book, 70169

death, 67 342obit. & port., 67 384

Numbur: 1st asc., 68 306Nun Kun: 1st asc., 59 216,341Niinlist, H.: his book: Spitsbergen,

71330Nup La: 1st cr., 59 14Nuptse: 1st asc., 66 209

ill., 66 212

OBELISKS,PASSOF THE:cr., 7°312,71246

Oberlin, J. C.: 'Invitation to the Andes',60 69

Obispo: see AltarO'Brien, E.: obit., 73 106Ocshapalca: attempt, 67 166

1st complete asc., 71 138Odell, N. E.: 'Air survey of Southern

Alps', 59 442'Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand',

60 108'Lho La', 60 132'The Southern Alps from end to end',

60 365notes: Golden Jubilee of the Norsk

Tindeklub, 63 262China and the Tibetan frontier

claims, 65 238Ben Nevis race, 68 136Kolahoi Northern glacier, 68138the ice-axe found on Everest in

1933,68141tenth anniversary of the first ascent

of Everest, 69 142Kingspitz, 69 290supposed Tibetan name of

Everest, 69 290a Canadian centenary, 72142

Ogilvie, I. H.: 'Crozzon di Brenta',67275

O'Higgins, Cerro: 1st asc., 65 242O'Higgins gJ.: description of, 65 170Ojeda, Pic (Colombia): by S ridge,

62179

Ojos del Salado: 2nd & 3rd ascs., 61397height, 61 549

Oker Gorge (Harz Mountains): guide torock climbs, 65 237

Oksfjord Peninsula: ases. in, 61 205Olan, L': 1st asc. of NW wall of N

summit, 61 5422nd asc., 72132

1st winter asc. by Devies-Gervasuttispur, 65 222

solo ase., 72 132Oldham, J. B.: obit., 6817201 Doinyo Lengai (Africa): ascs., 71 323

eruption, 72 336ill·,72307

Old records: 72 323Olga, Mt (Australia): description of,

67318ill., 67 314-15

Oliver, G.: his book: (with L. J. Sutton)Scafell Group, 73 291

Olsen, J.: his book: The Climb up toHell, 68 158

One hundred years ago: 62 177,63253,64237,65229,66378,67343,68297,69282,70320,71 307,72320,73255

Orizaba, Pico de: see CitlatepetlOrobian Alps: ascs. & passages in, 66

155Osborne, A. W.: obit., 73136Osler, J. A.: obit., 59 84Osmaston, H. A.: 'Arnie! and Rwot',

69228his book (with D. Pasteur): Guide to

Rock Climbs in Uganda, 69 312Ossau, Grand Pic d': 1st asc. by S

buttress, 64 268Oughton, F.: obit., 7314°Oulton, E. V.: obit., 70187Ovchinnikov, A.: (with E. Gippenreiter)

U.S.S.R. notes, 1959-63, 69 293

PACHANTA:1st asc., 64 40Packe, Charles: note on, & port., 65 80Padre Eterno (Andes): attempt, 70 243Paget, Mt (South Georgia): 1st asc. of

W Peak, 66 166, 67 2261st asc. of highest peak, 70 125, 313

Paget-Tomlinson, E. E.: obit., 59 213Paglia Orba: 1st asc. by NW face, 67 152

ill., 72 96Pai Chin-Hsiao: 'The ascent of Amne

Machin', 66 274Pain de Sucre: by N face, 60 374Pain de Sucre, Col du: reached from NE,

59461,60171cr., 60 374

Paine, Cordillera de!: expeditions to,61 398,67 15°,73 143

ascs.:North Tower: 1st, 63 259

2nd & 3rd, 68 186Central Tower: 1st, 68124, 179

2nd, 68 124, 186South Tower: 1st, 68 186Paine Grande: Central summit:

1st, 61398South summit: 1st, 61 398Principal summit: 1st, 63 259

future prospects in, 73 153list of principal 1st ascs. in, 73 157ill., 67 150

from E, 68 192from W, 68 192-3Paine Grande, 68 192-3

Palacio del Inca: ruins of, 6993Palcaraju: attempts, 65 220

2nd asc., 70 124Pallin, H. N.: obit., 59 338Palomares, Nevado: 1st & 2nd ascs.,

71 139Palomo, EI.: asc., 65 55Palii, Piz: 1st asc., 61545

E Peak: 1st authentic asc., 6349accident, 64 122

Pamirs: search for Abominable Snowmanin, 65 99

proposed expedition to, 66 391British-Soviet expedition, 1962,

6890,243medallions for members of, 68 301

Austrian expedition, 1967,7325Panaio Toupa: asc., 6158Pangbuk: 2nd asc., 6158Pangnirtung Pass: ill., 67 1°3Papsura: reece, 71 244

1st asc., 72 315, 73 158ill., 72 306-7

from W, 71 244-5& Dharmsura, 73156-7from Camp 1,73 157

Paradis, Grand: 1st winter asc. by NWface, 62 178

asc., 67 221by NW face, 72 319ill., 59 202-3

Parchamo: 1st asc., 6156Parehola: asc., 60 262Paredones group: ill., 64 233Parker brothers: their attempts on the

Matterhorn, 68 285Parquet, Rochers du: by E face super-

direct, 64270climbs on, 70 252

Parry, C. W.: obit., 65 268Pasang Lama: & Chomolhari, 73 115Pascoe, J.:

his books: Land Uplifted High, 59 96Mr. Explorer Douglas, 63 153Great Days in New Zealand

Mountaineering, 64 138Great Davs in New Zealand

Exploration, 65, 257Pasteur, C. H.: 'At the Montanvert in

the eighteen-nineties', 63 216obit. & port., 60 406

Pasteur, D.: 'An expedition to the Eminand Gessi area on Ruwenzori',69191

East African notes, 65 243, 67 361,68326, 69 302, 70 336, 73 276

his book: (with H. A. Osmaston)Guide to Rock Climbs in Uganda,69 312

Pasteur, H. W.: port., 60 406Pasteur, M.: port., 60 406Patagonia: ascs. in, 63 259

expeditions to, 65 158, 68230,7393,143, 186

see also p 57 belowPatagonian ice-cap: cr., 61271,67353,

69 183journey over, 67 250

Patey, T. W.: 'Post-war winter moun-taineering in Scotland', 65 186

port., 63 165Patriot, Pik (Pamir): asc., 68 95, 98

ill., 68 94-5Patterson, G. N.: his book: Tibetan

Journey, 59478Pause, W.: his book: Salute the

Mountains, 68 158Pave, Le: by S face, 60 374Paynter, T.: his book: The Ski and the

Mountain, 60 194Payot, Frederic: biographical note,

7°2°3Peacock, J. D. C.: 'Sandhurst in

Greenland, 1966',7245'Sukkertoppen Wedding Cake: The

A.M.A. expedition, 1967',73 234Peacocke, T. A. H.: 'The Alpine Club

Centenary dinner at Zermatt',6351

'A first visit to the New ZealandAlps', 72 252

note: Zermatt museum, 64 130his book: Mountaineering, 59 365, 498

Peak, A (Huagaruncho massif): 1st asc.,61446

Peak 3 (Yukon): 1st asc., 73 21

P 39

Peak VI (Barun valley): ill., 60 233Peak 19,275 ft (Cordillera Blanca): ill.,

6072-3Peak 5507 (S Georgia): ill., 61 468Pearce, J. : obit., 59 79Pegasus Peak (Alaska): asc., 62130Peigne, Aig. du: by N ridge, 5927,

60371,61540,63246,64261,70298

Pelechuco Huaracha: 1st asc., 65 88,176Pelle, la (Vercors): byW face, 70 316Pellissier, Camillo: death, 71314Pelvoux, Mt:

ascs.: 1st, 594642nd winter, 59462

Penhall, W.: port., 7014-15Penitentes, Cordillera de los: ascs. in,

61540Pentedhaktilos: E-W tr., 60 370Pepper, L. R.: 'Some climbs on the

South face of Mont Blanc', 6665Perouse, la (New Zealand): 1st asc. by

S ridge, 65 250Perouse, la (N America): asc., 65 251Perren, Bernard: death, 66 163Perren, Peter: port., 6234Perrons, Les: by NW face, 66154Perseverance, Aig. de la: by NE ridge,

60168Personality: and climbing, 73167Peru: see P 56 belowPeruvian notes: 70 144Pesciora, Passo Superiore di: 1st cr.,

59456Pethangtse: 1st asc., 59462,60233Petrig, Cesar: death, 70 325Pettigrew, R.: 'The Derbyshire

Himalayan expedition, 1961',67323,6852

'The ascent of Kulu Pumori', 70 74'Across the Sara Umga La', 71 236'Bruce's Solang Weisshorn', 72 201'Papsura climbed', 73158

Peuterey, Aig. Noire de:ascs.:

by S ridge, 59 30, 60 371, 61 541by W face, 60 371

1st winter, 72 3221st by N ridge, 61 541by E ridge, 64 203

tr., 61 472accident, 64 248ill., & Fauteuil des Allemands, 59 24-5

S ridge from near Gamba hut,5924-5

upper portion of S ridge, 59 25Brenva face, 61 472

4° P

Peuterey, Aig. Noire de:from Col de la Fourche, 6670from E, showing S ridge, 66 268-9& Aig. Blanche, with Fresnay g\.,

66269from below Pta Gugliermina, 66 272

Pfann, Hans: death, 63 257Phillips, Mrs: death, 60 178Phillips, T. B. H.: 'The Grand Traverse

of Mount Kenya, 1964',70294Phillpotts, J. S.: biographical notes,

63 123Phirtse La: cr., 64 87Photography: a century of mountain,

62 157wide base stereoscopic, 72 95

Phrulrang (Nepal): asc., 69125Phurbi Chyachu: ill., 61 60-1Piacenza, M.: obit., 65 228Piaz, T.: his book: Le Diable des

Dolomites, 69 3 IIPichincha: note re 1st asc., 68 302Pickard, R.: obit., 5979Pictures: Alpine, 64 129Pier Giorgio (Patagonia): 1st asc., 69 126Pierre, B.: 'Le Saicantay et la Cordillera

de Vilcabamba', 59 307'The mountams of Elburz', 61 63his books: La Conquete du Salcantay,

59357Une Montagne nommee Nun Kun,

59472Pierre Joseph, Pte Superieure de: by NE

couloir, 61 542Pigou, A. C.: obit., 64 289Pilier d' Angle, Grand: 2nd asc. by E

face, 70 317Pilkington, L. & P.: port., 62 52-3Pilley, D.: her book: Climbing Days,

71 183Pimu: asc., 6156Pingero (Himalaya): asc., 60 60Pinggera, Hans Sepp: death, 68 300Pinnacle (Hindu Kush): asc., 72 70Pinnacle Peak (Kanjiroba Himal): 1st

asc., 67 351Pischinger, R.: 'The first ascent of

Momhil Sar', 70 69Pisco (Andes): asc., 69 90

ill., from Huandoy, 60 82from below col to "V, 69 94-5

Pitons, ice-: 1st use in the Alps, 72 138Pivano, C.: obit., 68 356Placidus II Spescha: life & climbs,

68205Plan, Aig. du: by N face, 60 371, 61 541,

64200

Plan, Aig. du:by E ridge, 60 372by W face, 67 2161st asc. by W eperon, 70 315

Plateau Peak (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,7321 I

Plattischen Pass: 1st tourist cr., 59457Pleydell-Bouverie, B: obit., 71 196Pobeda, Pik: 1st asc., 63 258Poincenot, Aig.: 1st asc., 67 236

ill., 67 238-9, 239Pt 16,800 ft (Kulu): 1st asc., 71 247Pt 21,760 ft (Bara Shigri): possibilities

of asc., 70 77Pt 18,200 ft (Bara Shigri): asc., 7078Pt 2140 m (Greenland): asc., 72 53Pt 16,800 ft (Kulu): asc., 70 3IIPokalde (Nepal): 1st asc., 59 IIO, 139Poland: mountaineering clubs in, 67 161

mountaineering in, 72 103visit to Britain by mountaineers from,

72136Polleras, Cerro: attempt, 61 540Pollinger, Alexander: death, 59 345, 459Polyakov, A.: 'Conquest of first 7000

metre peak', 63 203'The first ascent and first traverse of

Victory Peak', 64 74Pontresina: early expeditions from, 63 44Popocatepetl: asc., 70 52

ill., from Ixtaccihautl, 70 54-5crater of, 70 55

Portalet, Petit Clocher du: 1st asc. byNE face, 63 246

Portcullis II (Karakoram): attempt, 67 82Porter, C. R.: obit., 67 391Porter, E.: his book: The Place No One

Knew, 70 171Porter, H. E. L.: 'After the Matterhorn,

1865-80',6239'Memories', 67 213notes: A. C. Graham, 63128

the Hermitage, 63 129Potocki, J.: death, 72 123Poulet, G.: 'Aconcagua, face Sud:

l'assaut', 60 20his book: (with R. Ferlet) Aconcagua,

South Face, 61415Pranavananda, S.: 'The Abominable

Snowman', 61 IIOPra Sec, Aigs. de: by S ridge, 60 165Predigstuhl: by W face, 63 120,70249Press, the: & mountaineering, 66159Preuss, P.: & artificial climbing, 68 299Price, J. S.: obit., 64 293Pride and Prejudice: quotation from,

68362

Prince Charles Mts: location, 61214Pritchard, H. J. M.: obit., 65 268Proboscis, Mt (Canada): by SE face,

69298Prusik, K.: death, 67 158Pryce, H. L.: obit., 71 196Pucahirca North: 1st asc., 61201

ill., from Punta Union Pass, 69 94-5from Quitaraju, 69213

Pucapuca: asc. of peak immediately S of,6952

Pucaranra: by NE ridge, 65 220Pudding Peak (Swat): tr., 70 210Puerta de Yanama (Andes): asc., 69 55Pugh, L. G. C.: 'Some effects of high

altitude on man', 61 507Pulpit (Coast Range): asc., 71300Pumadablam: asc., 66 349Pumasillo: 1st asc., 63 9

attempt, 69 46explorations NE of, 69 47ill., W face, 63 14

from Cabeza Blanca, 69 46-7Pumori: attempt, 60 58

accident, 67 1691st asc., 67 351

Punjab Himalaya: ascs. in, 69124Punta Hoft, Cerro (Chile): 1st asc.,

67353Punta Union Pass (Andes): cr., 69 92Puntiagudo, Nevado (Picacho): location

& history, 66 164ill., 65220

Punzones Range (Andes): 1st asc. ofhighest peak of, 65 58

Purcell Range: ascs. in, 6518Purtscheller, Aig.: by W face, 63 246Putha Hiunchuli: 1st asc., 60 254

ill., from head of Kaya Khola, 60 255from above Camp II, 68 208-9

Pyatt, E. C.:his books: (with C. W. F. Noyce)

British Crags and Climbers, 59 101(with R. W. Clark) Mountaineering

in Britain, 64 275Where to Climb in the British Isles,

66 175Mountains of Britain, 71 338

Pye, D. R.: obit., 65 269Pyramid (Alaska): asc., 72115Pyramid, the:

ilL, from plateau between EastHaundoy & Pisco, 60 72-3

from Huandoy, 6082Pyramid Peak (Swat): asc., 70 21 IPyramid Peak (Himalaya): 1st asc.,

60386

R 41

Pyramid (Pt 6778 m Hindu Kush): 2ndasc., 73 89

Pyrenees: see P 54 below

QAZI-DEHVALLEY:ascs. from, 72 123Qioqe Peninsula (Greenland): expedition

to, 72128ill., 73 62-3

Queen Mary, Mt (St Elias range): 1stasc., 67 358

Quitaraju: asc., 65 221, 69226ill., 69 212-13

Qungur:1st asc.: 61 549

description of, 62 183Quota IGM: proposed change of name,

69 135

RACH-E-DARos: 1st asc., 66 248Rakaposhi: attempts, 59462, 6048,

614491st asc., 63159ill., summit pyramid & Monk's Head,

6048from W, 61 450, 63 164from foot of SW spur, 61 457

Rakpa Peak: attempt, 66 349Ramchukor Peak: 1st asc., 70 311,

71242Ramgul Pass: cr., 69252Rana, Maharajah Sir J. S. J. B.: death,

5986Rapiu La: origin of name, 64 242Rappels: 66 365,367Rasac, Nevado: 3rd asc., 71151

4th asc., 721461st asc., of Central Peak, 72 146

Rassemblement Internationald'Alpinistes: 70 318

Rast Darrah (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,7272

ill., 72 62-3Rataban: asc., 60 260Ratang Tower: ase., 61 461Rata Pahar: attempt, 60 260Ratz, Mt (Coast Range): 1st ase., 71

2972nd, 71 299

Rausch, S.: 'Geralan Chitral expedi-tion, 1965',71215

Ravanel, Aig.: ase., 61 78ill., 61 72-3

Ravanel, Camille: death, 70 324Ravelli, F.: port., 59 299Rawiez, S.: his book: The Long Walk,

61419

42 R

Rawlinson, A. K.: 'Three Ryan-Lochmatter climbs', 59 65

'Crescendo', 1939-56',6298'The training of Val d'Aosta guides',

70262'The Alpine Club and the Alpine

Climbing Group', 72 197notes: tenth anniversary of the first

ascent of Everest, 68 303Camillo Pellissier, 71 314new type of ice-axe, 73 265

Real, Cordillera (Bolivia): generaldescription, 64 44

mountains & mountaineering, 6446list of 1st ascs. in, 6449bibliography, 64 52ascs. in, 72 127expedition to, 1966, 72 292

peaks climbed by, 72 302ill., 72 290-1

Rebuffat, G.:his books: Etoiles et Tempetes (Six

Faces Nord), 59474Le Metier de Guide, 60 293Mont Blanc to Everest, 61 417Starlight and Storm, 61 421Mont Blanc, Jardin Feerique, 68 329On Snow and Rock, 69160Cervin-Cime Exemplaire, 70 350Men and the Matterhorn, 72 344

Recce Peak (Andes): asc., 66 151Redondo (Andes): 2nd asc., 6945Red Ridge (Wokkpash): 1St asc., 66 49Reid, I. C.: his book (editor): Guide

Book to Mount Kenya and Kilimanjaro,69161

Reiss, E.: 'Old climbs and new in theBernese Oberland', 72 289

Republique, Aig. de la: asc., 66152Requin, Capucin du: by NE face,

66152Requin, Dent du: asc., 61541,7239Rescue charges: Alpine, 65 97Revelation Mts (Alaska): ascs. in, 73 270Revolution, Pic de la (Pamirs): 1st asc.,

60 383Richard, C.: her book: Climbing Blind,

71338Rickmers, W. R.: obit., 70 372Riddell, J.:

his books: The Ski Runs ofSwitzerland,63 148

The Ski Runs of Austria, 64 144Right Guardian (Pamirs): asc., 73 28Rimpfischhorn: asc., 65 217Ripimu La: cr., 6158Ripimu valley: ill., ice peak of, 61 56-7

Risch, Walter: death, 71310Roberts, A. B.: obit., 73 299Roberts, A. R.: his book: (with others)

Himalayan Holiday, 60425Roberts, D.: 'The West face of Mount

Huntington', 7115Roberts, E. E.: obit., 65 227Roberts, J. O. M.: 'Round about

Dhaulagiri', 60 248'Annapurna 11,1960',65143'Dhaula Himal', 68 188'Transport and Sherpas on Mount

Everest, 1963',68237'With the Royal Air Force on

Dhaulagiri IV', 71 75notes: Fanny, 68138

Dhaula Himal, 73 II3Roberts, W. M.: obit., 59 339Robertson, Rev James: biographical

note, 70 203Robson, Mt:

ascs.: 67 359by N face, 69 2981st winter, 71 318

Roc, Aig. du: tr., 63 246Rocallosa, Cima: asc., 69 49Roch, A.: 'The Swiss Everest expedi-

tion-Spring 1952', 59 I'Dhaulagiri, 1953',59302'An approach to the mechanism of

avalanche release', 70 57'How to estimate avalanche danger',

7287his book: Everest, I952, 5991

Rocky Mountains: expedition to, 65 237ascs. in Northern, 67 359ascs. in Canadian, 68 321, 73 274

Rogers, N. A. J.: 'Cordee Mariee', 70 297Roger-Smith, H. R.: obit., 61199Rohtang La: cr., 59 289, 7075Roiss, H.: 'The first ascent of

Haramosh', 64 12death, 64 244, 65 14

Rolleston, L. W.: obit., 68175port., 68 I II

Rolleston, Mt: accident, 71 319asc., 72 253ill., 72 258

Rolwaling: ill., peaks climbed from, 59418-19

Roncagli: ill., 68 232-3Rondoy: 1st asc., 68 303, 69 II3

recce, 69 108attempts, 69 IIO, IIIaccident, 69 II 3ill.,69 IIO

Rooke, N.: obit., 59452

Roper, S.: his book: A Climber's Guideto the Yosemite Valley, 70 172

Rosa, Mte:Dufourspitze:

1st ase., 60 377Centenary celebration, 60 397

ski asc., 61 84by Marinelli Couloir, 62 1761st winter ase. by E face, 70 326

Nordend:Santa Caterinagrat: ase., 59 24, 68

1st ase., 601691st winter ase., 72 322

by Brioschi route on Maeugnagaface, 59 203

Punta Giordani:Gugliermina's new route on S face,

59343,60172Punta Gnifetti:

mass ase., 66 159Signalkuppe:

1st British ase. by NE face, 64 269ill., Cresta di Santa Caterina, 59 69

with Lyskamm & Jumeaux fromRimpfisehhorn, 62 35

from Strahlhorn, 65 35Roscoe, D. T.: his book: Llanberis

North, ~ 313Roseg, Piz: early attempts & 1st ase.,

6344-5by NE face, 68 125

winter ase. by, 64 247Roseg, Porta da: 1st attempt on, 60 302Ross, D. B.: obit., 67 392Ross, K. F.: 'Mount Logan (East Peak)',

6454Rosso, Cima di: ase., 64 262Rosso, Mte: by N ridge, 64 262Rothery, S.: note: climbs in Ireland,

67178Rothorn, Brienzer: cable railway

proposed, 65 234Rothorn, Zinal: by E face direct, 61 542Rototaev, P.: 'Soviet mountaineering

in 1966',73120Royal family, the British: and

mountaineering, 59 278, 458Ruapehu, Mt: ase., 60 108Rubenson, C. W.: obit., 66 184Rudolf, Mt: by W wall, 61 381Rumbold, T. A.: note: T. G. Longstaff,

70133Rumea Peaks (Andes): ases., 68 222Rundall, J. W.: obit., 66183Runge, J. C. H.: obit. & port., 61 533Ruskin, J.: his diaries reviewed, 61 560,

63151

4

S 43

Russell, Count Henry: & the Vignemale,6580

port., 65 81Russell, Mt (Alaska): attempt, 67 357

1st asc., 68 320attempt by E ridge, 72 77ill., 72 63

Russia: mountaineering in, 59 459,61310,62107,63203,69293,73120

7000 m peaks of, 73 259Ruttledge, H.: obit., 67 393Ruwenzori:

Alexandra Peak: W face by viadirettissima, 65 22 I

Elizabeth Peak: 1st asc., 59 268Great Tooth: 1st ase., 61 384Margherita: 1st asc. by W face, 61 390Philip Peak: 1st ase., 59416Pte Albert: NE ridge, ase., 61 384

named Arete de Grunne, 65 237historical notes, 59 407expeditions, 1937-54,59410further notes on, 601°5, 178accident, 61 214nomenclature, 61 214various ascs., 60 375, 61 383, 390,

551,64255,65243,68326,69193,73276

new map of, 64 60, 256, 67 363heights in, 65 98guide book to, 67 347,364expedition to Emin & Gessi area, 69

191depth of lac de la Lune, ~ 197problems in, 69 302ill. :

Stanley Group from Congo side,59272

N portion of, 60106panorama from Ridge Camp, 59274Margherita Peak from NNE, 59 408Mt Baker from Stuhlmann Pass,

59408from above Scott Elliott Pass,

59409Alexandra: W face, 65 221E side of Speke from Gessi, 69 196-7panorama of Mt Gessi from Mt

Emin, 69 196-7Rwot (Uganda): ase., 68 327, 69 231

ill., 69 228-9, 229Ryan, M. F.: obit., 59 80

Sacsarayoe: attempts, 69 45, 521st asc., ~ 59ill., ~ 46--'7

44 S

Sad Istragh (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,72 123

Saglio, S.: his book: Da Rifugio aRijugio: Alpi Retiche Meridionali,60196

Sahara: expedition to, 63131St Bernard Pass, Great: opening of

road tunnel, 66 380St Elias, Mt: attempt, 69 298, 72 332

ascs., 70 33 I4th asc. & 1st by NW ridge, 71316ill., 64 55

St George Peak (Bhutan): 1St asc., 70113

St Gotthard tunnel: 75th anniversaryof, 62 179

Saipal: 1st asc., 69 125Salbitschijen:

S ridge: note on, 59 87asc. by, 59208

Saicantay: history & 1st asc., 59 309maps of, 59 4962nd asc., 61 3911st asc. by NE ridge, 71 138ill., 59 310, 311

Salmon, F. J.: 'From a diary of 1907',66310

note: the tale of an umbrella, 65 95Saltoro: expedition to, 1960, 66 147Sahoro Kangri: 1st asc., 68 122,6973

iII., from ridge at head of Lolofondgl.,63 188

showing route of 1st asc., 69 77from Advanced Base Camp, 69 78

Sanford, Mt: 1st asc. by S ridge, 73 271Sanseverino, J. : note:

centenaries in 1954,593441955,601731956,61 391

Sans Nom, Aig.: by NW spur, 69 132Sans Nom, Pic (Chamonix): 1st asc. by

NW face, 73 14ill., 73 14-15

Sans Nom, Pic (Dauphine): by NWcouloir, 60 375

monograph on, 61 871st asc. by NW face, 72 318ill. , 61 88-9

Santa Cruz, Nevado: 2nd asc., 65 221ill., 72 30-1

Santa Marta range (Colombia): expeditionto, 61550

ascs. in, 63 133peaks & glaciers, 63 209valleys, 63 21 Ihistory of mountaineering in, 63 212bibliography, 63 215

Santi, M.: port., 59 299San Valentin, Mt: 1st asc., 59432

iII., 59 432Saraghrar: attempts, 64 II6, 72328

accident,64 II61st asc., 65 9°,151ill., 65 152, 153

Sara Umga La: cr., 70 3IIasc. to, 71 244

Sarmiento, Mt: 1st asc., 61390Sarpy, A. U.: obit., 61 371Saser Kangri: attempt, 61 396Sassera, Bochetta di: 1st cr., 69 281Sasso d'Italia, Gran: asc., 69 34Sasso Moro: 1st asc. by SE face, 69 281Sat Dag Range (Turkey): ascs. in, 71

3°4,72117iII., summits of, 71 158

virgin summit climbed in 1966,72 II 0-1 I

Saussois: climbs in, 70 253Sawatch Range: iII., 7130-1Sayre, W. W.: his book: Four Against

Everest, 70 345Scalone, 10: by N ridge & tr., 64 262Scarr, J.: her book: Four Miles High,

72171Sceptre (Karakoram): asc., 67 8ISchallihorn: 1st asc. from the SchaIIi-

joch, 61 207Schell, H.: 'Akher Chioh (7020 m)',

72225Schermberg: 1st winter asc. by N face,

70286Schjelderup, F.: obit. & port., 60 409Schmid, Franz & Toni: port., 7°14-15Schomberg, R. C. F.: obit., 63 132Schreckhorn: 2nd asc., 59 53

iII., 61 336-7Schuster, Lord: obit. & port., 61 371Schwarzsee hotel: destroyed by fire,

63 129SchweizerIand: ill., 72 210-IISciora di Fuori: asc., 66156Scioretta, Colle delia: 1st recorded cr.,

69280Scotes, Pizzo di: 1st asc. by E face,

69280Scotland: North-west Highlands of,

65 191Lochnagar & the Cairngorms, 65 189post-war climbing in, 65 186Ben Nevis, 65191

annual race on, 68 136Scottish Mountaineering Club: book:

Climbers' Guide to the Cuillin of Skye,63144

Scramblers Peak (Hindu Kush): asc.,727°

Season: an Alpine, 1958,64119Seattle, Mt: ase., 72 331Seaver, G.: his book: Francis

Younghusband: Explorer and Mystic,S9221

Sebastopol, Mt (N.Z.): asc., 72 256Sedgwick, H. J.: obit. & port., 63 114Sefton, Mt: ascs., 7°334Seigne, Col de la: cr., 66 80Seiler, F.: obit., 72 191Selkirks: ascs. in, 71 318Sella, Piz: asc., 63 46Serio, Passo del: cr., 66155,386Seylaz, L.: death, 69 135Shachaur (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 70 120

ill., 71212-13Sharp, F. C.: obit., 72 357Sharpe, P. H.: obit., 61 534Sharpe, W. S.: obit. & port., 61 376Shchurovsky, Pik: by SE ridge, 64 118

by NE face, 67 152Shebbeare, E. 0.: obit., 69 327Sheila Peaks (Himalaya): ascs., 70123Shekuntla Tibba (Kulu): 1st asc., 72 210Sherpas: awarded 'Tiger' badge, 60 176Sherriff, G.: obit., 73 141Shidei, T.: 'The ascent of Sahoro

Kangri', 69 73Shield, the (Patagonia): 1st asc., 73154Shih Chan-Chun: 'The second ascent

of Minya Konka', 63 194'Ascent of Muztagh Ata', 6478'The conquest of Mount Everest by

the Chinese mountaineering team',66 28

Shikar Beh: 1st asc., 61 52Shilla: height, 613°3,3°9, 6S 274,

66 389Shimilik (Hindu Kush): 1st asc., 73 207Shingeik Zom (Hindu Kush): 1st asc.,

713°3,7285ill., 72 86

Shingo La:cr., 64 89ill., & neighbouring peaks, 64 87

Shipki Pass: ill., 66 341Shiprock (U.S.A.): by new route, 71318Shipton, E. E.: 'The Imperial College

Karakoram expedition, 1957', 63 185'Two visits to the Andes of Southern

Patagonia', 6S 158'A journey over the Patagonian ice-

cap', 67 250'The Darwin Range: Tierra del

Fuego', 67 259

S 45

Shipton, E. E.:'Further travels in Patagonia and

Tierra del Fuego', 68 230'Crossing the North Patagonian

ice-cap', 69 183'Some reflections on modern

climbing', 72 15'A visit to Alaska', 72 76his books: The Mount Everest

Reconnaissance Expedition,I95I, S991

Land of Tempest: Travels inPatagonia, I958-I96z, 68 331

Mountain Conquest, 71 329Shisha Pangma:

1st asc., 69 211route of, 70138

ill., 69 212Shkara:

ascs.: 3rd by N buttress, 63 2474th, 64259

by S face, 64 246ill., NNE face, 72 62W summit & shoulder of W ridge,

7262-3Shkhelda: tr., 67 54

3rd W peak by N face buttress, 67 152ill.,6756

ridge, from W Shkhelda, 67 62Shoe Peak: (see Zapato, Nevado)Sho Ho Dara (Swat): cr., 70207,211Sialouze, Aig. de: tr., 60 373Sici (Baffin Island): asc., 67 103Side, A. D. B.: 'Towards Kangchen-

junga', 60 83obit., 66 420

Siegen, J.: his book: The Lotschental: aGuidefor Tourists, 66175

Sihuaillusa, Nevado: ase., 68 221Silvretta Group: ases. & passages in,

66 155Silberhorn (N.Z.): attempt, 72 259Silber horn: 1st ase. by S ridge, S9 54Silbersattel: 1st winter ase. from E,

60171Sim, J. A.: obit. & port., 72 358Simien Range (Ethiopia): description of,

61344Simler, Josias: advice to travellers, 62 5Simler, R. T.: port., 68128Simplon Pass: proposed road tunnel

under, 67 158Simpson, M.: her book: White Horizons,

72346Singh, G.: 'Three months in Upper

Garhwal and adjacent Tibet',60257

Singh, G.:'Indian Mount Everest expedition,

1960',66 IShis book: The Lure of Everest, 67190

Singing Mountain, the: 72326Singkar: see TridentSirijuani (Andes): asc., 70 240Sisne Himal: asc. of peak in, 67 128Sissone, Mte: asc., 64 262Siula Chico: 1st asc., 72147Siula, Nevado: 1st asc., by E face, 69 126Skagastolstind, Store:

reminiscences of, 62 151ill., 62156

Ski Club of Great Britain: book:Handbook on Ski-Touring and GlacierSki-ing, 60 196

Ski-mountaineering: photographicsouvenirs of, 59 201

a defence of, 73 218Skoczylas,A.: his book: Stefano, We

Shall Come Tomorrow, 67 373Skrede, W.: his book: Across the Roof

of the World, 59479Sky-writing: menace of, 65 142Skye: A. C. members in, 60 382

opening of Coruisk hut, 64 246Slaggard, Mt: 1st asc., 65251Sleeping-bags: keeping warm in, 72 313Slesse, Mt (Canada): by N face, 69 298Slesser, M.: 'Peru, 1964',70240

'In defence of ski-ing', 73 218his books: Red Peak, 69161

The Andes are Prickly, 71 332Slings: note on nylon, 61 398Slingsby, F. H.: obit., 68 357Sloman, H. N. P.: obit., 70 373Smeds, H.: 'The Batu Mountains of the

Bale Plateau, Ethiopia', 64 217Smillie Peak (S Georgia): ill., 61 469Smith, D. A.: obit., 66187Smith, G. A.: his book: An Introduction

to Mountaineering, 72 350Smith, G. O. H.: obit., 67 203Smith, J. A.: her book: Mountaineering,

60431Smith K. C.: 'The Centenary Dinner',

6361obit., 66 188

Smith, R.: death, 67 342Smith-Barry, T. G. B. F.: obit., 70374

port., 70 378Smyth, A. J. M.: 'The R.A.F.

Mountaineering Association ex-pedition to Lahoul', 61 45

'The Northern approaches ofKinabalu', 63 27

Smyth, A. J. M.:'The Royal Air Force Karakoram

expedition, 1961',6773Smythe, A. G.: 'Around Mont Blanc

in four days', 66 78'The East face of the Grand

Capucin', 6790'The Moose's Tooth', 68 262his book: (with J. Cleare) Rock

Climbers in Action in Snowdonia,71335

Smythe, F. S.: memorial at Zermatt,59216

& Graham Brown, 72 135port., 62 84-5

Snow Dome: attempt, 61 41Snow Lake: ill., 64176Snow Lake Peak: attempt, 64 177Snowpatch Spire (Bugaboos): asc., 65 22

1st asc. by S face, 72 333ill., 65 22-3

Sofridjoo (Caucasus): asc., 63 II7Solang Weisshom: see Hanuman TibbaSolari, F.: 'An equipment centenary',

69241note: fixed-rope failures, 73 262

Solo, Cerro (Chile): 2nd asc., 67170Somervell, T. H.: valedictory address,

70 Inote: centenary celebrations, tic) 136

Sondre Trolltind: by N face direct,73 I, 101

by N face& E ridge, 73 103ill., 73 103

Soral Peaks: East: asc., 65 88,177West: asc., 65 178ill., E Peak, 65180-1

Soray, Pic: 1st asc., 61 391South America: see P 56 belowSouth American Indian: as a pioneer

Alpinist, 73 81South Georgia: survey, 1955-6,61465

Shackleton's route re-traced, 70 327South Greenland notes: 68 307Spaaman (South Georgia): 1st asc., 61 466Spain: see P 54 belowSpectorsky, A. G.: his book: (with

F. Iselin) Invitation to Ski-ing, 59 93Spiti: expeditions to, 61 296, 458

see also p. 60 belowSpitsbergen: expedition to, 1960,66167Spranger, J. A.: obit., 73 299Sri Kailas: 2nd asc., 69 125Staghom, Mt (Alaska): asc., 62127Stalin, Mt: 1st asc., 63 203

1st British asc., 67 348ill., 63 204

Stalin, Mt (Wokkpash): 1st asc., 66 49Stark, E.: her book: (with M. Jackson)

Tents in the Clouds, 61 423Starker, G.: 'The South wall of the

Dachstein in winter', 66 284Staunings Alps (Greenland): cr. of N

& Central, 66 2501st exploration of S, 66 254Italian expedition to, 69 128, 70 126Imperial College expedition to, 69

254location of, 72 141ill., 66 254-5,260-1, 6C)79,245

Stead, F. B.: obit., 60 160Steel, G. A.: obit., 69 175Steele, P. R: 'To Hiunchuli Patan',

68198'Perambulators in the land of the

Thunder Dragon', 72 264Stefan, W.: 'Distaghil Sar', 66 ISteiner, Franz: death, 70 324Stembridge, H. L.: 'A journey through

the Cordillera Blanca of Peru', 69 88Stephen, L.: port., 62134Stephenson, R M. : note on, 60 379Steven, C.: his book: The Island Hills,

61229Stevenson, E. J.: note on, 60 379Stevenson, V. N.: his book: Cornwall,

vol. II, 71 336Stewart, L. R: 'The ascent of Cayesh

and attempt on the virgin East ridgeof Huascaran', 66 199

Stikine Group (Alaska): ascs. in, 70 332Stillingfleet, B.: memorial tablet to,

63125Stockalper Chliteau: restoration of,

65233Stocken, C. M.: 'Ski touring in the

Valais', 61 80death, 72221

Stone, J. K.: & the Alps, 72 273,327port., 72 274

Stornade, Cima delle: 1st winter asc.,73254

Storr, A. E.: obit., 60 161Storsteinfjell massif (Norway): climbs

in, 70 318Stortind: attempt, 60 278Stoves: for cooking, 68 135Streather, H. R. A.: 'K 2: the third

American Karakoram expedition,1953',59391

'Army Mountaineering Associationexpedition, 1959',6537

Stretchers, mountain rescue: used inBritain, 73 223

T 47

Strutt, E. L.: as editor of the AlpineJournal, 62 88

Bonacossa's memories of, 70 219Struve, K. C. P.: obit., 66 378Studer, G.: mountaineering career,

68 210Studerhorn: 3rd asc. by N face, 65 222Styles, S.:

his books: Mountains of the MidnightSun, 59481

Introduction to Mountaineering,60429

Rock and Rope, 72175The Arrow Book of Climbing, 72176Mallory of Everest, 72350The Climber's Bedside Book, 73284

Su Alto, Cima: NW face, 8th & 9thascs., 61 541

Sugar Loaf (Himalaya): asc., 65 43Sugartop, Mt (South Georgia): 1st asc.,

70314Sugden, F. K.: obit, 72 360Sukarno, Mt (New Guinea): asc., 69 291Sundt, E.: 'Reminiscences of Store

Skagastolstind',62 151Supersaxo, Ambros: death, 59459Sutlej : sources of the, 60 268Sutton, G.:

his books: (with G. W. Young &C. W. F. Noyce) SnowdonBiography, 61 561

(with C. W. F. Noyce) Samson: theLife and Writings of MenloveEdwards, 65 253

(with E. Byne) High Peak, 72 167Swanage: climbs on the cliffs of, 66 299Swargarohini (Himalaya): attempt,

69206Swat Kohistan: two journeys in, 67 42

asc. of unnamed peak in, 6745expedition to, 68 251climbs in, 70265ill., Confusion & Batin Peaks from S,

70212-13Swift, Bob: port., 61 456Swiss Everest expedition members: ill.,

61244Swiss pioneers: achievements in the

Alps, 68 2051st ascs. made by, 68 210

Swiss prints: notes on, 68 212Symonds, H. H.: death, 64 128

TABLE MOUNTAIN: climbs on, 6C)103Tacul, Aig. du: by SE face, 63119Tacul, Pyramide du: 1st asc. by NE

face, 64 270

Tadaft (Atlas): asc., 67 68ill., 67 70

Tadat (Atlas): ascs., 67 67Tairona Peak (Colombia): by W ridge,

62 179Tairraz, Jean: biographical note, 70204Tairraz, P.: his book: (with R.

Frison-Roche) Mont Blanc aux SeptValtees,65 115

Takht-i-Suleiman: asc., 61 64, 70 126Talbot, J. 0.: 'The North-east pillar of

the Wetterhorn', 69 119his books: (with R. G. Collomb)

Bernina Alps, 73 285Engelh6rner and Salbitschijen, 73 288

Talisker (Coast Range): asc., 71 300Tallantire, P.:

his book: Felix Austria (vol. 1),70352vols. II & IV, 72 175vol. III, 73 285

Talung Peak: 1st asc., 69 289Tangley, Lord: see Herbert, E. S.Tambu: asc. & tr., 6150Tam Sur (Peru): 1st asc., 72146Taparacu (Andes): 1st asc., 69 219Tapugiri: asc., 61283Tara Pahar: asc., 61284

ill., 61 292Tiischhorn: by Teufelsgrat, 59 26

S face, 5th asc., 59461attempt, 63 92ilL, S face, 62 68-9

Tasman, Mt:ill.: from top of the rocks on Mt

Cook, 72 258-9from Pioneer hut, 72 258-9

Tatra: ascs. in, 68 26,7137,41ill., 68 30-1, 71 30-1see also p 54 below

Tatum (Alaska): asc., 62 126Taugwalder (Sohn), Peter: Fiihrerbuch

of, 59436& Whymper, 65 94port., 59440,441,61488-9

Taugwalder (Vater), Peter: & Whymper,6594

his climbing career, 70 26port., 59 440

Taugwalder, Rudolf: death, 60 170Taulliraju: 1st asc., 61 543

iII., 60 72-3Taurus mountains: expeditions to,

70127Taweche: attempts, 69 25, 28

ilL, 69 30Taylor, C.: 'Climbs on limestone in the

Alps', 70 246

Taylor, P.: his book: Coopers Creek toLangtang II, 70 350

Tazarhart Wall:ill., from Lepiney hut, 71 31

N face, 71 260-1Tchernine, 0.: her book: The

Abominable Snowman and Company,66410

Techado Negro (Chile): 1st asc., 67 170Technique: for beginners, 59 498Tejada-Flores, L.: 'Games climbers

play', 73 46Temperatures: low, 63 260Temple, Mt (Rockies): by new route on

N. face, 72332Temple, P.: 'Mountains of the White

Arrow', 68 78his books: Nawok!, 68 157

The Sea and the Snow, 72 176Tent Peak (Annapurna group): 1st asc.,

70217,71 1532nd asc., 71 89 (f.n.), 97

Tent Peak (Coast Range): asc., 71 299Tenzing: audience of the Pope, 63 213Terim Shah gl.: explored, 63 190Ternicod, G.: his book: Recueil de

Pages Valdotaines,71 179Terray, L.:

his books: Conquistadors of the Useless,69158

(with L. Devies) Joies de laMontagne, 70 346

(with J. Franco) Bataille pour leJannu, 71 165

(with J. Franco) At Grips withJannu, 72 176

death, 71 145Terror, Mt (Antarctica): 1st asc., 64 132Tesi Lapcha: cr., 59 14,15,416

ill., 59 420Tetnuld: 2nd asc. by N face, 72 324Teton range: ascs. in, 68321,71318

tr. of main chain, 70 333Tc!zenas du Montcel, R.: his book: Ce

Monde qui n'est pas le notre, 70 340Thamserku: 1st asc., 7090

ilL, & Kangtega from NW, 7094from W, 7094-5

Thorn, John:his mountaineering career, 65 199

correction re, 66 161Thomas, E.: obit., 66 190Thomas, M. B.: 'The Royal Naval

East Greenland expedition, 1966',7229,212

Thompson, D. E.: her book: Climbingwith Joseph Georges, 68145

Thorington, J. Monroe: 'Martin Barry,Quaker microscopist', 59 19

'Edmund John Clark, M.D.', 59 264'Erasmus Galton and Mont Blanc',

61102'As it was in the beginning', 624'Bishop Salm's expeditions to the

Gross Glockner', 69 244'James Kent Stone and the Alps',

72273notes: William Windham's 'ice-axe',

60380J. A. Deluc, 63125requiescat, 64238Archduke John of Austria, 65 230Italian Alps, 1962, 68 132Edmund John Clark, 68 299

his book: A Climber's Guide to theRocky Mountains of Canada, 71 338

Thorington, Mt: location of, 72 325Thornycroft, 0.: obit., 61535Tibesti Mountains: ascs. in, 69 268,

70126Tibet: visit to Western, 60 178, 263

Wakefield's journey to, 1929, 66 118,325

Tichu gl.: ill., panorama from head of,6851

Tichy, H.: 'Cho Oyu, 1954',60239Tiefenmattenjoch: attempt, 63 92Tieroko (Tibesti Mountains): note on,

69 268Tierra del Fuego: see P 57 belowTila Ka Lahr: ill., 61 50Tilman, H. W.: 'Himalayan apery',

60296'Crossing the Patagonian ice-cap',

61271'Mountains of the Crozet Islands',

66 52and Mischief, 72 144his books: Nepal Himalaya, 59 92

'Mischief' in Patagonia, 63 140'Mischief' among the Penguins, 67 187

Timesguida n Ouanoukrim (Atlas): asc.,6768

Tinguiririco: asc., 65 57Tinzenhorn: 1st asc., 6350Tipping, C. J.: obit., 69 328Tiquimani (Bolivia): 1st asc., 68 3I 5Tirich Gol: 1st tr. from, to Lower

Gazikistan gl., 73 90Tirich Mir: accident, 67 352

1st asc. of E Peak, 701222nd asc. of highest peak, 73 2503rd asc., 73 891st complete circuit of massif, 73 90

T 49

TirichMir:notes on, 73 IIO, 262ill.,66244

Tirich Nord: 1st asc., 71 65ill., & Tirich Mir, 71 62

showing N spur & camp sites,7162-3

Tirich West I: 1st asc., 73 250Tirich West IV: 1st asc., 73 89Tobin, H. W.: obit., 61536Tococcapac: asc., 66 151Tolam Bau gl.: ascs. from, 61 56

ill., 61 57, 59Tomlinson, G. J. F.: obit., 68130Torbet, Mt (Alaska): 1st asc., 70 333Toro, El (Venezuela): asc., 67 285Torre, Cerro: attempts, 63 259, 73 94,

1861st asc., 64 243ill., group, 73 181

SE ridge, 73 196-7Tottan Range (Antarctica): attempt on

highest summit, 67 347Toubkal (Atlas): ascs., 67 67, 69

ill., 67 71Tour centenary, a: 68 134Tour, Col du: cr., 61 80Tour Ronde: by N face, 60 375, 66 152Tour Verte: by new route, 63 II9Tournelon Blanc: 1st asc. by E face,

73253Towitz Peak (Karakoram): asc., 63188Travers-Jackson, G. F.: obit., 69 328Travis, G. L.: obit., 64 294Traynard, P. & C.: their book: Alpes

et Neige. IOI Sommets a Ski, 71 176Trench B. F.: obit., 73 137Trevelyan, G. M.: obit., 67 399Trident, the (Singkar): 2nd asc., 61 57Trident Peak (Kulti gl.): ill., 61 48Trieste, Torre: by W ridge, 68 226Trifthorn: 1st asc., 61 348Triglav: a veteran's asc., 64 132Triolet, Aig. de: by N face, 60 373,

61386,661531st winter & 1st solo asc. of N face,

71305Triolet, Breche de: 1st asc. by N face,

65222Triplex (Yukon): ill., 73 ISTristan da Cunha: asc. of peak on, 61391Trisul: ill., 62135Trisul II & III: 1st ascs., 65 246Trivor: 1st asc., 66 9

ill., 66 14Trollryggen:

from Romsdal, 64 183

50 T

Trollryggen:2nd asc., 65 222

1St asc. by N wall, 71 98, 139ilL, & Trolltindene (1931 & 1958

routes), 64 184N wall, 71 78-9

Trolltind Ridge: ilL, E wall with Troll·tind wall & N face of SondreTrolltind (routes), 73 14

Trolltind Wall: by British route, 73103by French direct route, 73 103

Tronco, EI (Chile): 1st asc., 65 241ill., 65 242

Triibswetter, I: 'The GarmischPartenkirchen Hindu Kush ex-pedition, 1963',69249

'Shingeik Zorn: the SmokingMountain', 72 85

Truffaut, R.: his book: From Kenya toKilimanjaro,63147

Tsacra Grande: 1St complete asc.,70124

Tsumi La: cr., 70 IIOTucci, G.: his book: Nepal: the

Discovery of the Malla, 67 369Tucker, J. : his book: Kangchenjunga,

61219Tuckett, F. F.: port., 6217Tunnels: note on some Alpine, 61 548Turkey: ascs. in massif S of Coruh

river, 73 253Turl, Mt (Baffin Island): 1St asc., 67102Turnbull, H. W.: obit., 66 422Turpin Peak (Himalaya): 1St asc., 70

123Twins:

ascs.: (Lahoul), 61 49, 51(Spiti), 61 459

Tyndall, J.: his grave restored, 72 322Tyson, J. B.: 'Exploring the Api and

Nampa group, Western Nepal',59421

'Three months in West Nepal', 67120

UDRENZOM (Hindu Kush): 1St& 2ndascs., 70 120

Uganda: ascs. in, 68326U.I.A.A.: meeting, 1962, 68 132

election of new President, 70 135meeting in London, 70 1391966 assembly, 72 1381967 assembly, 73 II6

U.I.A.G.M.: formation of, 71 147UlIa-Kara- Tau: by left part of N face,

67152UlIa- Tau-Chana: by left-hand buttress

of N face, 67 152

Ullman, J. R.:his books: Man of Everest, 60 426

Banner in the Sky, 61 230The Age of Mountaineering, 61 426Americans on Everest, 71 163

Ulta, Nevado: 1St asc., 67166Umbrella: the tale of an, 65 95Umbu Gyabjen: asc., 59 IIO, 138Underhill, M.: her book: Give me the

Hills, 61 558Underwood, E. A.: 'The Gran Sasso

d'ltalia', 69 34United Kingdom: (see British Isles

notes)University Peak (Alaska): 1St asc., 61 201Unsworth, W.:

his books: Matterhorn Man, 71 182Tiger in the Snow, 72 350Because it is There, 73 280

Upernivik, Horns of: ilL, N face,7362-3

Upernivik Island: expedition to, 73 68mountaineering history, 73 68ascs. in, 73 72, 79

Uraccapac: ascs., 66151Urco, Pta (Andes): asc., 70 242Urgend (Hindu Kush): 1St asc., 69124Uruashraju (Peru): 1St asc., 72146Ushba: S Peak: 1St asc. by NW face,

64246ilL, 61324

from above Betsho, 62 59from W Shkhelda, 67 62-3

Uyeo, S.: 'The ascent of AnnapurnaSouth Peak (Ganesh)', 70 213

VAG, BOCCHETTADEL: 1St asc. from N,69 280

Valais: human nature in the, 60 135ascs. in, 1962,67340

Valdez gl.: new ascs. from, 65 251Valette, Pta: by N face, 63121Valgrande, Passo di: cr., 67 346Vallina, Bocca delia: 1st cr., 61206Vallina, Dosson delia: 1St asc., 61 205Vancouver, Mt: 1St asc. of Border

Summit, 73 22ill., 73 22

Vandeleur, C. R. P.:note: Himalayan heights and earth-

quakes, 59 88Lord Conway and IIlimani, 60172

obit., 69 176Van der Stratten, MIle: death, 65 90Vanis, E.: 'The Bezingi Wall', 72 57

'Austrian expedition to the Pamirs,1967' 73 25

Voroshilov, Mt (Pamir): 1st asc., 65 89Vuibe: unfrequented route on the, 59

455

W 51

Vanoise, Aig. de la: by N face, 63 120Vatnajokull: tr., 65 98Venezia, Torre: by Tissi route, 67 34,

68226ascs., 70 300 WAGER,L. R.: 'Mount Everest: the

Venezuela: map of the Andes of, 69 122 Chinese photograph', 68 49Venezue an notes: 68 317 obit. & port., 7I 349Verghese, B. G.: his book: Himalayan Wainwright, A."': his book: A Pictorial

Adventure, 68 157 Guide to the Lakeland Fells, 68 155Veronica: 1st asc., 6I 391 Wakefield, E. B.: 'A journey to WesternVeronica de Urubamba, Cordillera: Tibet, 1929',66 u8, 325

ill., 70 252-3 Waldis, A.: his book: Switzerland: theVerte, Aig.: by Whymper Couloir, 59 324 Traveller's Illustrated Guide, 7I 184

by Sans Nom arete, 59 342 Walker, C. W.: obit., 69 3291st asc. from Charpoua g\., 60125 Walker, H.: port., 62 17by couloir Couturier, 60 373, 6I 203, Walker, J. 0.: obit., 73 138

541,64200,69132 Wall, D.: 'The ascent of Rondoy', 69 106early attempts, 6I 389 his book: Rondoy, 70 344accident, 69 290 Wallis, R. H.: 'The Royal Naval East1st winter asc. by Contamine route, Greenland expedition, 1966',

70 327 7229, 212Vertigo, E1 (Venezuela): asc., 67 284, 337 South Greenland notes, 68 307Victory Peak (Tien Shan): 1st asc. & Walmsley, J.: 'Masherbrum, 1957',

tr., 64 74 63 169ill., 64 75 'Nuptse', 66 209

Vidinkot and Shosht (Hindu Kush): Walsh, Mt (Yukon): asc., 73 21description of mountain area between, Ward, M. P.: 'Bugaboo', 651873 58 'Himalayan scientific expedition,

Viedma, Vulean (Patagonia): description H}60-61', 66343of,65 167 'The descent from Makalu, 1961, and

Vignemale: by N face, 6I 543 some medical aspects of high& Count Henry Russell, 65 80 altitude climbing', 68 IIAnne Lister's asc., 73 199 'Bhutan Himal', 70 106

Vileabamba, Cordillera de: cartography, 'Bhutan Himal: some further59 307 observations', 7I 281

expedition to, 6941 notes: treatment of frost-bite, 7I 309Vilcanota, Cordillera: ascs. in, 6438, the highest mountain in Bhutan,

72316 72325ill., 64 38-9 his book: The Mountaineer's

Viney, R. M.: 'The Tronchey arete of Companion, 72 160the Grandes Jorasses', 59 323 Warren, N. S. S.: obit., 72 361

obit. & port., 6I 377 Wathen, R. J.: poem: The waters andVinson Massif (Antarctica): 1st asc., the wild, 66 134

72128 Watson, H. D. D.: 'Imperial CollegeViotto, S.: death, 69 291 East Greenland expedition, 1963',Visser, P. C.: obit., 60 412 69253Vodka: & mountaineering, 65 237 Watson, H. M. D.: death, 69 169Voillat, A.: obit., 65 94 Watson, W. F.: 'A solo traverse of thevon Allmen, Hilti: death, 7I 310 Matterhorn, 1961',6785von Ficker, H.: death, 63 257 e>bit.,70 188von Leyden, V.: obit., 69 177 Watzmann: accident, & early ascs.,von Humboldt, A.: centenary of his 66 385

death, 64 241 Weather & snow conditions: reports onVonnegut, B.: note: electrical Alpine, 63 263

observations from mountains, 63 259 Webster, A.: 'A Gervasutti route: thevon Tscharner, H. F.: 'Random thoughts South face of the Pointe Guglier-

on the Matterhorn', 7038 mina', 73 535 • Spelled incorrectly as Wainewright in 68155

52 W

Wedderburn, E. A. M.: his book:Alpine Climbing on Foot and with Ski,60194

Wedderburn, J.: 'The 1965 ScottishHindu Kush expedition', 7r. 58

Wedderburn, T. M.: obit., 73 300Wedding Cake (Greenland): 1st asc.,

73238Weir,T.:

his books: Camps and Climbs in ArcticNorway, 59 356

East of Katmandu, 6r. 219Weisshorn:

Schalligrat (SW ridge): asc. by, 59 70early descs., 59 217

attempt, 66 70tr., 66 86

by Schalligrat & E ridge, 67 223ill., from Taschalp, 62 52-3

N ridge, W face, S face, E ridge,6268-9

Weissmies: asc., 65 216Wellenkuppe: tr., 59 26Wellhom: 1st asc., 59 56Wellhom, Klein: by SE face, 70 130

ill., 70 15°-1West, W. C.: obit. & port., 63 116Western, A. E.: obit., 67 204Westmacott, M. H.: 'Everest, 1953.

Narrative of the expedition', 59 107'Invitation accepted', 6r. 435'Arrigetch', 72 109note: traditional methods of abseiling,

73108West Maiden (Alaska): asc., 72 114Westmorland, H.: note: Major-General

W. W. Foster, 60 376his book: Adventures in Climbing,

70172Weston, W.: monument to memory of,

70322Wetterhorn: early ascs., 59179

1st asc. by NE Pillar, 69 119,133ill., from shoulder of Gross

Fiescherhorn, 6r. 337NE Pillar (route), 69 31NE face, showing Etter/Reiss 1944

route, 72 290Wetterhorn, Scheidegg: by NW face,

60171Wheeler, E. 0.: obit., 67 402Whillans, D.: 'Aiguille Poincenot', 67 236White Dome (Langtrang Himal): 1st

asc., 60 385White Mountains (Crete): climbs in,

65208White Sail: 2nd asc., 68 58

Whymper, E.: & engravings forScrambles, 59 344, 7r. 119

& the Taugwalders, 65 94& Southend, 70135a word for, 7r. 111,3°9climbing career, 7r. 118knowledge of French, 7r. 121Lunn's article, 7r. 228& the Royal Society, 7r. 308port., 6r. 489, 62 17

Wibratte, L.: obit., 60 163Wichmann Tower (Alaska): asc., 72113Wignall, S.: his book: Prisoner in Red

Tibet, 63 151Wigner, J. H.: obit., 59 449Wilcox Peak (Canada): attempt, 59 35Wilerhorn: 1st recorded asc. from NW,

73253Wilhelmina, Mt: see Sukarno, Mt.Wilkinson, D. P.: port., 59440Wilkinson, J.: port., 5944°Williams, C.: her book: Zermatt Saga,

70173Williams, E. S.: note: physiological

expedition, 66 161Williams, G.: death, 60 376Wills, A.: port., 62 16Wilson, J. G.: 'The Himalayan School-

house expedition, 1963', 6g 23'The Himalayan Schoolhouse expedi-

tions', 70 226Wilson, Maurice: his Mt Everest

attempt, 70 269Wilson, R. C.: obit., 7r. 197Wilson, W. K.: biographical note, 70204Wind River Range: ascs. in, 68 321Windham, William: his 'ice-axe', 60 380Winkler, G.: remains found, 6r. 388Winter ascs.: season of, 70 325, 7r. 143Wokkpash: climbs in the mountains of,

6642suggested names for mountains of,

67165Wollaston, N.: 'Peaks of the Sissu Nala

basin, Lahul Himalaya', 60 62his book: Handles of Chance, 6r. 573

Women's altitude record: 60 176, 64 258,66 389

Wood, jr, Joseph: obit., 64106Wood, Mt (Alaska): by new route, 65251Wood-Johnson, G.: obit., 6r. 545Wordie, J. M.: obit., 67403Wrangham, E. A.: 'The technique of

artificial climbing', 60 37his book: (with J. Brailsford) Selected

Climbs in the Dauphine IIlps andVercors,7328S

Wright, J. E. B.:his books: Rock Climbing in Britain,

64145(with W. H. Murray) The Craft

of Climbing, 70 172Wright, Lord: obit., 69 330Wyatt, C.: his book: The Call of the

Mountains, 59 361Wybergh, C. H.: obit., 67 405Wyttenwasser Pass: cr., 61 335

YAGANCERRO:asc., 67 265Yalung valley: expedition to, 1953,

59316Yamazaki, Y.: 'Modern mountaineering

in Japan', 71 248Yanacocha (Andes): attempt, 69 56Yanamarey group (Peru): ascs. in,

72126Yauyos, Cordillera: expedition to, 72 316Yeames, J. L.: obit., 65 271Year ofthe Alps: exhibition opened,

70136Yerupaja:

2nd asc., 65 221correction re, 66 426

attempts, 70 124, 144, 245, 71 138,72125,284

ascs. of S Summit, 71 ISO1st direct asc. by W face, 72 1461st asc. by NW ridge, 73 252various ascs., 73 2521st asc. by a woman, 73 253

Yerupaja Chico: 2nd asc., 73 II8Yerupaja Sur: 3rd asc., 72146Yeso valley: ill., unnamed peak in,

65243Yeti La: cr., 68 202

Z 53

Yosemite valley: ascs. in, 68 321, 70 333modern climbing in, 71219

Young, G. W.: 'Club and climbers,1880-1900',6252

'An alpine aura', 63 Inote: Gabriel Lochmatter, 63126his books: (with G. Sutton & C. W. F.

Noyce) Snowdon Biography,61 561

The Influence of Mountains upon theDevelopment of Human Intelli-gence, 62 192

Lunn's paper on, 66 100, 67 210obit. & port., 64 107

Young, S.: obit., 63 239Yukon: Alpine centennial expedition,

1967, 73 18see also p 55 below

ZANUTTI,A.: port., 59 299Zapata, Nevada: 1st asc., 6442Zaskar: women's expedition to, 64 84Zemu La: ill., 62164Zermatt: in the 1870's, 6249

new accommodation for museum,64130

English church at, 65 275Riffel Alp hotel destroyed, 66 380proposed motor road, 66 380entry of motors, 71 142ill., the Club Room of, in 1864, 6238

Ziemann, H. P.: obit., 61380Zinal: centenary of 1st inn, 64 240

development of, 72 133Zoccone, Bocchetta del: 1st cr. from W,

69 280Zurcher, A.: 'Josef Knubel', 67 269

port., 67 270

Special Districts

A list of articles and maps (but not notes) relating to ranges other than the Alps.l

Europe1. British IslesPost-war winter mountaineering in Scotland. By T. W. Patey, 65 186An introduction to Swanage. By J. S. Cleare, 66 299The Green Abyss: on being nearly drowned at Chair Ladder, Cornwall. By H.

Kilgour, 73 216

2. CaucasusTwo Caucasian first ascents. By D. W. Freshfield, 60113The Caucasus in 1874. By A. W. Moore, 60 305, 61 123The East Summit of Dych Tau. By M. J. Harris, 64 66Jangi Tau. By A. Blackshaw, 64 70The Traverse of Shkhelda. By H. MacInnes, 67 54The Bezingi Wall. By E. Vanis, 72 57Maps:

Caucasus, part of the Central, 60 358Bezingi basin, 64 260

54

3. NorwayAspects of winter mountaineering in the Norwegian Arctic. By N. C. Negri, 60276Reminiscences of Store Skagastolstind. By E. Sundt, 62 151Trollryggen from Romsdal. By A. R. Heen, 64 183The North face of Trollryggen. By J. Amatt, 71 98The North face direct of S0ndre Trolltind. By J. Amatt, 73 ISome ethical considerations with a view to mountaineering in Norway. By A. Naess,

73230Maps:

Lyngen, North-west, 60 2770ksfjord Peninsula, 61 204

4. Pyrenees and SpainRussell and the Vignemale. By R. Fedden, 65 80Anne Lister's ascent of Vignemale. By V. Ingham, 73 199A winter expedition to the Spanish Sierra Nevada. By A. C. Carter, 68 61

5. TatraIn the Tatra Mountains. By J. Mostowski, 68 26The Tatras in September, 1965. By J. Hunt, 7137Polish mountaineering. By P. Czartoryski, 72 103Map: Polish High Tatra, 71 39

6. Other districtsThe mountains of Crete. By L. H. Hurst, 65 208The Gran Sasso d'ltalia. By E. A. Underwood, 69 34Maps:

Crete, White Mountains, 65 208Sans Nom, Pic (Dauphine), 61 88

1 Articles on the Alps are too numerous to list here, but are in the main index.

Africa1. Central and SouthKilimanjaro. By D. L. Busk, 60 96Mount Kenya, 1939-1952. By J. W. Howard, 60 270The North face of Mount Kenya and other climbs. By H. G. Nicol, 69 81The North-east Pillar of Nelion. By B. Cliff, 69259The Grand Traverse of Mount Kenya. By T. B. H. Phillips, 70 294African holiday. By G. A. Dummett, 64206Lukenya. By J. W. Howard, 65 195Amie! and Rwot. By H. A. Osmaston, 69 228Elizabeth Peak, Ruwenzori. By D. L. Busk, 59 268Further notes on the Ruwenzori. By D. L. Busk, 59407,60 105A new map of the Ruwenzori Peaks. By D. L. Busk, 646oAn expedition to the Emin and Gessi area on Ruwenzori. By D. Pasteur, 69 191The fairest Cape. By R. Baillie, 69 103Maps:

Kenya, Mount, 69 82Ruwenzori, the, 59 269, 64 60

Central,69 199

2. NorthClimbing solo in the High Atlas. By C. W. F. Noyce, 67 65The High Atlas in winter. By H. M. Brown, 71 43Return to the Atlas. By H. M. Brown, 71 275A note on Tieroko (Tibesti Mountains). By P. R. Steele, 69 268The Simien and Batu ranges in Ethiopia. By D. L. Busk, 61 344The Batu Mountains of the Bale Plateau, Ethiopia. By H. Smeds, 64217Maps:

Atlas, High, 67 66Ethiopia, part of, 64 220Morocco, 71 276

Toubkal massif, 71 277Simien Range, 61 344Tibesti: Tieroko massif, 69 269

North America1. Alaska and YukonClimbs in Alaska, 1954.By F. Beckey, 60 31The Parachute Brigade Alaska expedition, 1956.By E. J. E. Mills, 62 121Mount Logan (East Peak). By K. F. Ross, 64 54The South face of Mount McKinley. By F. Maraini, 68108The Moose's Tooth. By A. G. Smythe, 68 262The West face of Mount Huntington. By D. Roberts, 71 15Two North American expeditions. By M. E. B. Banks, 71 19A visit to Alaska. By E. E. Shipton, 72 76Arrigetch. By M. H. Westmacott, 72 109The Yukon Alpine Centennial expedition-1967. By Lord Hunt, 7318Note on Good Neighbour Peak. By J. V. Hoeman, 73 22Maps:

Alaska: Centennial Range, 73 24part of, 73 24

McKinley, Mt: district, 6z 124

III

I

III

I

III

I

II

I

!I

II

II

i

!I

I

!

55

2. Canada (except Yukon)The Banff-Jasper Highway, 1952. By R. L. Morrish, 59 33Bugaboo. By M. P. Ward, 65 18The mountains of Wokkpash. By M. F. R. Jones, 6642The Scottish-Canadian Coast Range expedition, 1965. By D. Fabian, 71 296Map:

Purcell Range: Bugaboo, Bobbie Burns, and Conrad Groups, 65 20

3. Other districtsMexican trilogy, 1963. By M. Fantin, 7048The Rockies of Colorado. By E. Echevarria C., 71 26Modern Yosemite climbing. By Y. Chouinard, 71 219Maps:

Colorado, Rocky Mountains of, 71 27Ixtaccihuatl, 70 5IOrizaba, Pico de, 7°49Popocateptl, 70 50

South America1. PeruLe Salcantay et la Cordillera de Vilcabamba. By B. Pierre, 59 307Invitation to the Andes. By J. C. Oberlin, 60 69Further notes on the Andes. By E. Echevarria C., 60 79Invitation to the Andes, Part II. By G. Francis, 60 280Invitation accepted. By J. W. R. Kempe and M. H. Westmacott, 61435Cambridge on Pumasillo. By J. H. Longland, 63 9In the Cordillera Vileanota. By S. Jervis, 6438The Imperial College expedition to the Nudo de Apolobamba, 1959. By W. H.

Melbourne, 65 175The ascent of Cayesh and attempt on the virgin East ridge of Huascaran. By L. R.

Stewart, 66 199Climbs in the Cordillera Vileabamba. By B. Hearfield, 6941A journey through the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. By H. L. Stembridge, 6g 88The ascent of Rondoy. By D. Wall, 69 106Peru, 1964. By M. Slesser, 7°240Alpamayo, 1966. By J. Amatt, 7218Yerupaja. By J. M. Kosterlitz, 72 284Maps:

America, part of South, 61 272Andes of Peru:

Allinccapac group, 60 287Apolobamba, Nudo de, 65 176Blanca, Cordillera, 6g 92high mountain activities of South American Indians, 73 82Huagaruncho massif, 61 436Pumasillo group, 69 43Veronica de Urubamba, Cordillera, 7°244

Saguasiray massif of, 70 241Vileanota, Cordillera, 64 40

Peru, 6074climbing regions of, 60 284

57

2. Patagonia and Tierra del FuegoMount San Valentin. By O. Meiling, 59432Crossing the Patagonian Ice-cap. By H. W. Tilman, 61 271Two visits to the Andes of Southern Patagonia. By E. E. Shipton, 65 158Aiguille Poincenot. By D. Whillans, 67236Journey over the Patagonian Ice-cap. By E. E. Shipton, 67 250The Darwin range, Tierra del Fuego. By E. E. Shipton, 67 259The Central Tower of Paine. By C. J. S. Bonington, 68 179Further travels in Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. By E. E. Shipton, 68 230Crossing the North Patagonian Ice-cap. By E. E. Shipton, 69 183The first ascent of the Fortress and future prospects in the Cordillera del Paine. By 1.

Clough, 73 143The British Cerro Torre expedition, 1967/68.By P. Crew, 73186Maps:

America, part of South, 61 273Darwin, Cordillera, 67 261Paine, Cordillera del, 67151,73145Patagonia:

Ice-cap, 61 274part of, 65 161, 165

3. Other districtsAconcagua, face Sud. By R. Ferlet and G. Poulet, 60 17Some notes on the history of Aconcagua. By M. Fantin, 71 261The Andes of Cocuy. By E. Echevarria C., 63 33The Santa Marta range, Colombia. By E. Echevarria C., 63 209The Cordillera Real. By E. Echevarria C., 64 44The Chilean Cordillera Central. By E. Echevarria C., 64 228, 65 53The Sierra Nevada de Merida. By D. L. Busk, 67 280The Reading University Andean expedition, 1962. By R. H. F. Hunter, 68 219A map of the Andes of Venezuela. By D. L. Busk, 69 122Astray in the Andes. By M. Nelson, 69 217Cordillera Real, 1966.By D. H. Challis, 72292The South American Indian as a pioneer alpinist. By E. Echevarria C., 73 81Maps:

Aconcagua, 71 261Chilean Cordillera Central, 64 236Cocuy, Sierra Nevada de, 63 34Merida, Sierra Nevada de, 69122Real, Cordillera, 6446,68221

Cooco valley, 72 296Santa Marta, Sierra Nevada de, 63 214

Antarctic and Arctic1. GreenlandGroenland-Sud. By C. Maillard, 63 18The crossing of the North and Central Staunings. By J. A. Jackson, 66 250The first exploration of the South Staunings. By A. Blackshaw, 66254The Hjernespids. By 1. McNaught-Davis, 66256The Imperial College East Greenland expedition, 1963.By H. D. D. Watson,

69 253

The Royal Naval East Greenland expedition, 1966. By M. B. Thomas and R. H.Wallis, 72 29, 212

Sandhurst in Greenland, 1966. By J. D. C. Peacock, 7245Upemivik Island: the University of St Andrews West Greenland expedition, 1967.

By P. Gribbon, 73 68Sukkertoppen Wedding Cake: the Army mountaineering expedition, 1967. By

J. D. C. Peacock, 73 234Maps:

Greenland:activities of Royal Naval expedition, 1966,72213Ikamiut area, Sukkertoppen, 73 239illustrating route of Sandhurst expedition, 1966,7251Schweizerland: access to, 72216

location of, 72 3 ISouth, 63 21Staunings Alpen, 66 252

area in which the Imperial College expedition operated, 69 256Caledonia group, 69 128

Tasermiut fjord region, 68 308, 3I IUpernivik Island: activities of the 1967 expedition, 73 69

2. Other districtsThe South Georgia survey, 1955-6. By L. C. Baume, 6x 465Mountains of the Crozet Islands. By H. W. Tilman, 66 52The Cambridge Arctic Canada expedition, 1961, to Cumberland Peninsula,

Baffin Island. By R. E. Langford, 6797Climbing in the Antarctic. By M. Burley, 67 226Spirit of the storm. By W. M. M. Deacock, 70 273Mount Herschel and Robertson Bay: Sir Edmund Hillary's Antarctic expedition, 1967

By M. Gill, 73 173Maps:

Antarctica: Cape Hallett area, 73175Baffin Island: Pangnirtung Pass, 67 105Heard Island: showing 1963 and 1964-5 routes, 70 275South Georgia, 6x 466

AsiaI. HIMALAYA AND KARAKORAM

(a) 8000-ersThe Swiss Everest expedition-Spring, 1952. By A. Roch, 59 IEverest. By T. Graham Brown, 59 103Everest, 1953:

Narrative of the expedition. By Sir John Hunt and M. Westmacott, 591°7Sir John Hunt's diary, 59 123The first ascent of the South Peak. By R. C. Evans, 59 173The last lap. By Sir Edmund Hillary, 59 235The closed circuit oxygen apparatus. By R. B. Bourdillon, T. D. Bourdillon, and E.

Harris, 59238The oxygen apparatus in action. By T. D. Bourdillon, 59 247

Indian Mount Everest expedition, 1960. By G. Singh, 6615The conquest of Mount Everest by the Chinese mountaineering team. By Shih

Chan-chun, 66 28

59

Chinese Everest expedition, 1960: a further commentary. By B. R. Goodfellow, 66 313The Everest expedition of 1921. By G. H. Bullock, 67 13°,291Everest: the Chinese photograph. By H. Merrick, 67 310Mount Everest, 1962. By H. Dang, 68 IMount Everest: the Chinese photograph.

(I) By H. Merrick, 68 48(II) By L. R. Wager, 6849

Transport and Sherpas on Mount Everest, 1963. By J. O. M. Roberts, 68237Americans on Everest, 1963. By N. G. Dyhrenfurth, 69 IMaurice Wilson and Everest. By T. S. Blakeney, 70 269A Tibetan name for Everest. By T. S. Blakeney, 70 304Nine on the summit of Everest. By M. S. Kohli, 71 IK 2: the third American Karakorum expedition, 1953. By H. R. A. Streather, 59 391The 1954 Italian expedition to the Karakorum and the conquest of K 2. By A. Desio,

603The Kangchenjunga reconnaissance, 1954. By J. W. R. Kempe, 59428Towards Kangchenjunga. By A. D. B. Side, 60 83Kangchenjunga climbed. By G. C. Band, 60 207On Lhotse and Mount Everest. By A. Eggler, 61 239Makalu. By J. Franco, 6113The descent from Makalu, 1961, and some medical aspects of high altitude climbing.

By M. P. Ward, 68 II

Dhaulagiri, 1953. By A. Roch, 59 302Dhaulagiri, 1959. By F. Moravec, 65 IIThe Cho Oyu expedition, 1952. By R. C. Evans, 59 9Cho Oyu, 1954. By H. Tichy, 60 239The ascent of Nanga Parbat. By W. Frauenberger and H. Buhl, 59371The ascent of Shisha Pangma. By Chou Cheng, 69 211Maps:

Ama Dablam, Makalu, Everest, 66 344Dhaulagiri, 593°4Cho Oyu massif, 60 240

(b) BhutanBhutan Himal. By M. P. Ward, 70 106Bhutan Himal: some further observations. By M. P. Ward, 71281Perambulators in the land of the Thunder Dragon. By P. R. C. Steele, 72 264The ascent of Chomolhari. By D. F. O. Dangar and T. S. Blakeney, 723°4Maps:

Bhutan:Monlakachung region, 72 270Northern, 71 283North-western Himalaya of, 68 36route followed in 1967, 72266West, 70 107

(c) KarakoramTo the Monk's Head on Rakaposhi. By R. R. E. Chorley, 60 48Struggle for Rakaposhi. By M. E. B. Banks, 61 449The ascent of Rakaposhi. By F. R. Brooke, 63 159The second attempt on Masherbrum. By L. R. Hewitt, 61 29Masherbrum, 1957. By J. Walmsley, 63 169

60

The ascent of Masherbrum. By T. F. Hornbein, 67 9The climbing of the Muztagh Tower. By J. M. Hartog, 61 253The Imperial College Karakoram expedition, 1957. By E. E Shipton, 63185The first ascent of Haramosh. By H. Roiss, 64 12The Italian expedition to Gasherbrum IV. By F. Maraini, 64 155The first ascent of Chogolisa. By T. Kuwabara, 64 168Snow Lake, 1956. By D. H. Greenald, 64 175The Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959. By H. R. A. Streather, 65 37The Batura Muztagh expedition, 1959. By J. I. Edwards, 65 48Distaghil Sar. By W. Stefan, 66 IAscent of Trivor. By C. W. F. Noyce, 669The Royal Air Force Karakoram expedition, 1961. By A. J. M. Smyth, 67 73Khinyang Chhish, 1962. By P. J. Horniblow, 68 100The ascent of Saltoro Kangri. By T. Shidei, 69 73Communications on the Pakistan-British Karakoram expedition, 1962. By J. A. E.

Hasell, 69 98The first ascent of Momhil Sar. By R. Pischinger, 70 69Maps:

Aling glacier, 67 78-9Baltoro glacier and K 2, 59 392Distaghil Sar and Trivor, 66 5Gasherbrum group, 64 156Hushe valley, the, 67 78Karakoram: part of, 63186Kero Lungma-A1chori glacier basins, 65 46Khinyang Chhish: general area, 68102Malubiting massif, 67 168Momhil Sar area, 70 70Saltoro Kangri: route up from Goma, 69 76

(d) Kulu, lahul, SpitiGlaciers of the Kulu-Spiti Divide. By A. E. Gunther, 59 288Peaks of the Sissu Nala basin, Lahul Himalaya. By N. Wollaston, 60 62The R.A.F. Mountaineering Association expedition to Lahoul. By A. J. M. Smyth, 6145Central Lahul, 1955. By H. McArthur, 61 279The Cambridge University expedition to Spiti, 1955. By T. Braham, 61 296Spiti, 1956. By P. F. Holmes, 61 458The Derbyshire Himalayan expedition, 1961. By R. G. Pettigrew, 67 323,6852The ascent of Kulu Pumori. By R. G. Pettigrew, 70 74Across the Sara Umga La. By R. G. Pettigrew, 71236Bruce's Solang Weisshorn. By R. G. Pettigrew, 72 201Papsura climbed. By R. G. Pettigrew, 73 158Maps:

Kulti basin, Central Lahul, 61 46Kulu:

showing routes of the Derbyshire Himalayan expedition, 67 323Punjab Himalaya, 71237,72202

Malana and Tos glaciers, 73 158Kulu-Lahul-Spiti watershed, 70 75Kulu-Spiti Divide, glaciers of the, 59 289Lahul, part of Central, 61 284Lahul Himalaya: peaks of the Sissu Nala basin, 60 64Spiti-Lahul-Kulu watersheds, 61 458Zaskar and Lahoul, 64 84

(e) NepalThe Yalung valley, 1953. By J. W. R. Kempe, 59 316Scottish Nepal expedition, 1952. By T. Mackinnon, 59 417Exploring the Api and Nampa group, Western Nepal. By J. B. Tyson, 59421The Creagh Dhu Himalayan expedition, 1953. By H. MacInnes, 60 58Lho La. By N. E. Odell, 60 132The Barun expedition. By G. Lowe, 60 227Round about Dhaulagiri. By J. O. M. Roberts, 60 248Safari in Nepal. By J. Howard, 61 38The Merseyside Himalayan expedition, 1955. By A. Gregory, 6154The Scottish Women's Himalayan expedition. By M. Jackson, 616oClimbing the Fish's Tail. By C. W. F. Noyce, 62 113Women's Overland Himalayan expedition, 1958. By A. Davies, 64 83Ama Dablam, 1959. By J. H. Emlyn Jones, 65 IAnnapurna II. By J. O. M. Roberts, 65 143Nuptse. By J. Walmsley, 66 209Himalayan Scientific expedition, 1960-1. By M. P. Ward, 66 343Three months in West Nepal. By J. B. Tyson, 67 120The Jagdula expedition, 1962. By D. Evans, 68 65Dhaula Himal. By J. O. M. Roberts, 68 188To Hiunchuli Patan. By P. R. Steele, 68 198The Himalayan Schoolhouse expedition, 1963. By J. G. Wilson, 69 23Thamserku. By D. Mackay, 7090Gauri Sankar, 1964. By I. Clough:70 96The ascent of Annapurna South Peak (Ganesh). By S. Uyeo, 70 213The Himalayan Schoolhouse expeditions. By J. G. Wilson, 70 226West Nepal expedition, 1964. By J. Cole, 70 254With the Royal Air Force on Dhaulagiri IV. By J. O. M. Roberts, 71 75The German Himalayan expedition, 1965. By G. Hauser, 7189Maps:

Annapurna Himal:South-western part of, 70 215

Dhaulagiri Himal, 60 248, 68 190, 71 85Gauri Sankar:

massif, 61 54route on, 70 97

Hiunchuli Patan:North-west and West flanks of, 68200

Jagdula expedition, 68 77Jugal Himal, 61 62Nepal:

part of, 61 38part of Eastern, 60 228part of Northern, 59 I Ipart of North-western, 59 427part of West, 67123West, showing 1961 and 1964 routes, 70257

Yalung valley, the, 59 321

2. HINDU KUSH

A Roman flag on Saraghrar Peak. By F. Maraini, 65151The Polish expedition to the Hindu Kush, 1960. By B. Chwascinski, 66 235Two journeys in Swat Kohistan. By E. J. E. Mills, 67 42Swat and Indus Kohistan. By T. Braham, 68 25I

61

62

The Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hindu Kush expedition, 1963.By I. Triibswetter,6C}249

More climbs in Swat. By R. J. Isherwood, 70 205The Scottish Hindu Kush expedition, 1965.By J. Wedderburn, 7I 58Some climbs from the Upper Tirich glacier. By K. Diemberger, 7I 61The exploration of the Hindu Kush. By B. Chwascinski, 7I 199German Chitral expedition, 1965.By S. Rausch, 7I 215A panorama of the Hindu Kush. By G. Gruber, 72 1Journey to the Blue Valley. By P. Newby, 72 65Shingeik Zorn-the Smoking Mountain. By I. Triibswetter, 72 85Akher Chioh (7020m). By H. Schell, 72225Some notes on the Darrah-i-Parshui. By W. Frey, 72 308A reconnaissance into North-east Chitral. By G. Gruber, 73 55A visit to the Chiantar glacier region, Eastern Hindu Kush, 1967.By A. Linsbauer,

732°7Maps:

Darrah-e-Abi, approaches to the, from Panjshir, and a walk to the fringes ofNuristan, 72 67

upper, 7274Darrah-i-Parshui, 72 309Falak Sar region, 68 253Hindu Kush, High (Eastern), 72 14

part of the, 7I 64, 203Hindu Raj, between Shost and Vidinkot, 73 59

Chiantar glacier district, 73 208Kohistan, approaches to, 67 46Noshaq, 66 236route of the Garmisch Partenkirchen expedition, 1963,69 251Saraghrar,66 198Swat and Indus Kohistan, 67 50

3. OTHER DISTRICTS

Three months in Upper Garhwal and adjacent Tibet. By G. Singh, 60 257The mountains of Elburz. By B. Pierre, 6I 63A map of the Central Elburz. By D. L. Busk, 63 207The highest mountains. By D. F. O. Dangar, 62 165,64136,66 391, 73 241The northern approaches of Kinabalu. By A. J. M. Smyth, 63 27The second ascent of Minya Konka. By Shih Chan-Chun, 63 194Conquest of first 7000 m peak. By A. Polyakov, 63 203The first ascent and first traverse of Victory Peak. By A. Polyakov, 6474The ascent of Muztagh Ata. By Shih Chan-Chun, 64 78A journey to Western Tibet, 1929.By E. B. Wakefield, 66 1I8, 325The ascent of Amne Machin. By Pai Chin-Hsiao, 66274Some hints for Himalayan aspirants. By G. O. Dyhrenfurth, 68 36British-Soviet Pamirs expedition, 1962.

(Part I) By J. Hunt, 68 90(Part II) By I. G. McNaught-Davis, 68243

Twenty-five years of schoolboy expeditions in the Himalaya. By J. T. M. Gibson,6C}201

Climbing in Turkish Kurdistan. By R. Fedden and P. Lloyd, 7I 133Modern mountaineering in Japan. By Y. Yamazaki, 7I 248Sat Dag, Hakkari, 1966.By S. E. P. Nowill,72 117Austrian expedition to the Pamirs, 1967.By E. Vanis, 73 25

Maps:Garhwal, Upper, 60 258Garmo glacier, 68 90Kinabalu, 63 30, 3 I

Pamir:Peak Lenin area, 73 30

Takht-e Sulaimangruppe, 63 208Tibet:

part of Western, 60 264Western, 66 lI8

Australasia1. AustraliaMountains of the Central Australian desert. By M. Hosford, 67 3I3Map:

mountains of Central Australia, 67 319

2. New GuineaMountains of the White Arrow. By P. Temple, 68 78

3. New ZealandAir survey of Southern Alps. By N. E. Odell, S9442Mount Ruapehu, New Zealand. By N. E. Odell, 60 108Southern Alps from end to end. By N. E. Odell, 60 365A first ascent on Mount Cook. By H. MacInnes, 61 330Mount Cook. By W. G. Croll, 69 262A first visit to the New Zealand Alps. By T. A. H. Peacocke, 72 252Map:

Mount Cook, 69 265

Printed in Great Britain by Spotti$woode. Ballantyne & Co. Ltd., London and Co/chelter