FIRST IN FASHION #25 SPRING 20151am

se r i o us

1amEDITOR/CREATIVE DIRECTORGLENN HUNT

PHOTOGRAPHERSCYBELE MALINOWSKIDAVID K SHIELDSBONNIE HANSENSARAH RUGGKAY SUKUMAR

FASHIONNICOLE ADLER CHRIS LORIMERELLA MURPHYVICTORIA WIMSETT

MAKEUP & HAIRANIA MILCZARCZYKTHE MURPHY GOZZARD HAIR COMMUNITYJOHN KOPAEEMMA BRYCE

WRITERSJOEY FENAUGHTYJADE HUNTER

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COVER STAR HANNAH ELYSE @ CHADWICK MODELSPHOTOGRAPHED BY CYBELE MALINOWSKIwears VALE dressSTORY PAGE 8

1 AM ISSUE 25 CONTENTS 04) 1 A M TH E I N N OVATO RS 0 8) 1 A M C RO SS I N G OV ER 24) 1 A M PR ETTY S ER I O U S 4 8) 1 A M LI P SYN C ED 62) 1 A M M EZ KO 70) 1 A M N O I R E 78) 1 A M RA PT I N PR I NTS

Debuting their collections on the MBAFW runway earlier this year as part of the Innovators Fashion Design Studio showcase of six top Sydney TAFE graduates, three standouts MAT LEE, JACK HUANG and ONTICHA join a long list of alumni including Alex Perry, Dion Lee, Lisa Ho, Akira Isogawa, and Nicky Zimmermann. We combine selected pieces from each designer and take you through the creative process of these three exceptional talents. By JADE HUNTER

1A

M

THE

IN

NO

VATO

RS

photography KAY SUKUMER styling VICTORIA WIMSETT model NICOLE @ Chadwicks

> 1 ST U P D ES I G N

opposite page: JACK HUNG topMAT LEE jacket and skirt; this page: ONTICHA short sleeve jacket, MAT LEE split skirt.

These Innovators are part of the wave that is changing the face of Australian fashion. Adding personality and effortless twists on classic minimalist style. It is impossible to predict what these forward thinking designers will envision next, but we can expect to be further enchanted by quality and modernization on our runways.

top left: ONTICHA top, JACK HUNG skirt; top right: JACK HUNG skirt, ONTICHA top: bottom: MAT LEE jacket, JACK HUNG skirt.

MAT LEE has his own distinct flavour of art and quirkiness. His label is like a fingerprint, sculptured, patterned and distinctly individual. Unsurprisingly Mat Lee has appeared on the MBFWA 15 runway, with experimental looks that portray fashion as art without delving into awkwardly outrageous. Lee explains the method behind his magical madness. “My inspirations for my collections are greatly inspired by modern art and sculptures. I like to go to the MCA and look at 3D sculptural art forms and interactive art and incur the shapes and textures into fashion. I then go and research what inspired the artist and the journey to create the final art piece. Once I get a solid foundation I then develop my own inspiration and the vibe I want to evoke in the new collection.” His latest vibe is the Yoko Oh No! collection, works of art designed for the catwalk that cleverly showcases the balance between creative flair and wearability.

JACK HUANG describes his fashion as “quite minimal with 90’s sci-fi and sportswear influences and a focus on silhouette and shape.” Huang enhances the average monochrome trend with the hint of a secret story beyond the fabric. His linear, sleek designs also gives a glimpse into taboo worlds, which combines to embody a fashion story with many possible interpretations. This depth is created with influences of the underground rave scene and the flirtation of skilful tailoring with bondage inflections. Huang talks passionately about the role his designs play in the non-gender specific movement that is creeping into mainstream fashion. “Equality in general is something I’m a big advocate for so I’ve also been trying to close the gender gap in my clothing recently. I feel gender inequality in many ways is also expressed through fashion - whether it be literal expressions such as skirts being socially unacceptable for men, or through the way different genders dress and how that represents underlying gender roles.”

ONTICHA breaths a fresh crispness into the industry, describing her designs as “a modern Australian version of relaxed tailored street-wear. This is done with a theme of minimalism to allow synchronicity between modernity and wearability.” Her play with everyday urban influences and whimsical feminine textures brings a refreshing juxtaposition to the label. The careful design quality and runway-to-sidewalk fluidity saw the designer chosen as one of the six Innovators shown at MBFWA15 as well as being invited to Fiji Fashion Week 2015. The Onticha fashion story comes from the very foundations of the clothing industry. Not many designers have a tale of inspiration that comes from the heart of fabric and design like this. “My formative years were on a farm in Thailand and I used to keep my own silk worms. I would raise the worms from when they were yet to hatch, help them to grow, and then watch them produce silk. I would then assist and admire the women from the village create beautiful fabrics on their looms using the silk which I had helped create. This was a part of our everyday routine, so it was a natural decision for me to choose fashion as a career path.” This process gave Onticha a great admiration for fabrics and textiles, which flows into the designs that are inspired by fabric and colours as well as other people’s stories and life experiences. It is also this core foundation that highlights the central key to the Onticha experience: NO GENDER, NO SEASON, NO RULES. EMBRACING THE VALUES OF FREEDOM.

MAT LEE hand knit top and skirt.

1 AM C RO SS I N G

OV ERH A N N A H E LYS E @ C H A D W I C K M O D E L S

P h o t o g r a p h e d by CY B E L E M A L I N O WS K I fa s h i o n by N I C O L E A D L E R A S S I S T E D by P h o e b e M c K ay

m a k e u p by A N I A M i l c z a r c z y kh a i r by T h e M u r p h y G o z z a r d H a i r C o m m u n i t y

GORMAN top.

ZOE KARSSEN tank, LP33.3 skirt, JYJEWELS bracelet.

VALE dress.

ZOE KARSSEN tee, KOWTOW pants.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER swimsuit from Cara Mia Vintage, ZOE KARSSEN pants.

JEREMY SCOTT jacket from Cara Mia Vintage, stylists own scarf.

ZOE KARSSEN top, stylist own briefs.

HOUSE OF CARDS dress

KATE SYLVESTER dress, DR MARTENS boots.

1 AM

PR ETTY

s er i o u s

A l e x , J a c , W e d n e s d ay , S o p h i a , J a c k & A n n a @ 6 2 m o d e l s Ta l e a & B e c k y @ c ly n e r o s s @ r e d 1 1

P h o t o g r a p h e d by D AV I D K S H I E L D S fa s h i o n by C h r i s L o r i m e r m a k e u p by J o h n Ko pa e h a i r by E m m a B ryc e at S t e p h e n M a r r

The freshest of faces they might be, but for the nine budding models we introduce here, shooting new

season fashion for 1am is pretty serious business...

1 AM

PR ETTY

s er i o u s

Alex & Jac both wear ZAMBESI tank tops.

WED

NES

DAY

How

do

you

feel

righ

t now

? C

onte

nt, e

xcite

d, h

ungr

y. W

hat d

o yo

u ho

pe h

appe

ns fo

r you

in

the

futu

re?

To g

et in

to a

rt sc

hool

and

get

a jo

b I l

ike.

Wednesday wears ZAMBESI top, NYNE mesh dress, COMPANY OF STRANGERS necklace.

Talea wears COMPANY OF STRANGERS top, KATE SYLVESTER jacket.

Jack wears ZAMBESI coat, VANISHING ELEPHANT top and shorts.

BEC

KY W

hat's

the

best

thin

g th

at's

hap

pene

d to

you

in y

our l

ife so

far?

Tra

vellin

g to

Tha

iland

with

my

fam

ily. H

ow d

o yo

u fe

el r

ight

now

? I a

m a

con

tem

pora

ry d

ance

r. W

hen

I sta

rt da

ncin

g it

feel

s lik

e I c

an ju

st

keep

on

goin

g fo

reve

r. W

hat d

o yo

u ho

pe h

appe

ns fo

r yo

u in

the

futu

re?

I hop

e to

be

reco

gniz

ed fo

r my

art.

I reg

ret n

ot a

lway

s liv

ing

in th

e pr

esen

t.

Becky wears JIMMY D scarf and top, KAREN WALKER skirt.

Ross wears ZAMBESI coat, NUMBER (N)INE cravat.

RO

SS W

hat's

the

best

thin

g th

at's

hap

pene

d to

you

in y

our l

ife so

far?

Exa

ms

are

over

. How

do

you

feel

rig

ht n

ow?

Rel

ieve

d. W

hat d

o yo

u ho

pe h

appe

ns fo

r yo

u in

the

futu

re?

No

mor

e ex

ams.

Sophia wears KAREN WALKER shirt, DEBORAH SWEENEY dress.

SOPH

IE W

hat's

the b

est t

hing

that

's h

appe

ned

to y

ou in

you

r life

so fa

r? T

he e

nd-o

f-sch

ool b

ell r

ingi

ng

ever

y da

y. H

ow d

o yo

u fe

el ri

ght n

ow?

Reg

retfu

l, co

nfus

ed, a

nnoy

ed, s

tress

ed, h

appy

, hun

gry,

che

eky.

Wha

t do

you

hop

e ha

ppen

s for

you

in th

e fu

ture

? To

trav

el w

ith m

odel

ing.

Con

vinc

e m

y D

ad to

let m

e ge

t a c

at.

Ross wears VANISHING ELEPHANT shirt, KOWTOW coat, ZAMBESI trouser.

Anna wears KATE SYLVESTER floral top, DEBORAH SWEENEY ruffle blouse.

Talea wears COMPANY OF STRANGERS ring and necklace, STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB top, KAREN WALKER flared pant.

TALE

A H

ow d

o yo

u fe

el ri

ght n

ow?

Chi

lled

but t

ired.

Wha

t do

you

hope

hap

pens

for y

ou in

the f

utur

e?

To tr

avel

and

enj

oy m

y lif

e. T

o be

a s

uper

mod

el. T

o m

eet C

ara

Del

evig

ne a

nd K

ate

Mos

s.

ALEX

W

hat’s

the

bes

t th

ing

that

’s h

appe

ned

to y

ou in

you

r lif

e so

far

? G

ettin

g in

to th

e N

Z Be

ach

Volle

ybal

l tou

r to

Van

uatu

. H

ow d

o yo

u fe

el r

ight

now

? Fr

ee,

spor

ty a

nd c

reat

ive.

Wha

t do

you

hop

e ha

ppen

s fo

r yo

u in

the

fut

ure?

To

mak

e th

e yo

uth

Oly

mpi

cs fo

r Vo

lleyb

all.

JAC

Wha

t’s t

he b

est

thin

g th

at’s

hap

pene

d to

you

in y

our l

ife so

far?

Mak

ing

the

NZ

beac

h vo

lleyb

all t

eam

goi

ng to

Van

uatu

. How

do

you

feel

rig

ht n

ow?

Hap

py, b

ut s

tress

ed w

ith a

ll sc

hool

wor

k W

hat d

o yo

u ho

pe h

appe

ns fo

r yo

u in

the

futu

re?

To m

ake

a liv

ing

of th

ings

I lo

ve d

oing

mos

t suc

h as

vol

leyb

all a

nd m

odel

ing.

Jac & Alex wear shirts ZAMBESI, trousers KOWTOW.

Sophia wears KAREN WALKER shirt, KATE SYLVESTER tie.

Anna wears KATE SYLVESTER dress (worn as coat), ITZME jumpsuit, KAREN WALKER boots.

ANN

A W

hat’s

the

best

thin

g th

at’s

hap

pene

d to

you

in y

our

life

so fa

r? G

ettin

g sc

oute

d by

62

Mod

els

at th

e M

iley

Cyr

us c

once

rt. H

ow d

o yo

u fe

el ri

ght n

ow?

Exci

ted

/ ner

vous

. Wha

t do

you

hope

hap

pens

for

you

in th

e fu

ture

? To

be

a su

cces

sful

mod

el a

nd tr

avel

.

JAC

K W

hat’s

the b

est t

hing

that

’s h

appe

ned

to y

ou in

you

r life

so fa

r? S

till t

o th

is d

ay, g

oing

to M

elbo

urne

w

ith m

y be

st m

ate

Lew

Rak

. How

do

you

feel

rig

ht n

ow?

Tire

d. W

hat d

o yo

u ho

pe h

appe

ns fo

r yo

u in

th

e fu

ture

? TI

’m re

ally

into

furn

iture

des

ign,

so

I wou

ld li

ke to

do

som

ethi

ng a

long

the

lines

of t

hat.

JAC

K W

hat’s

the b

est t

hing

that

’s h

appe

ned

to y

ou in

you

r life

so fa

r? S

till t

o th

is d

ay, g

oing

to M

elbo

urne

w

ith m

y be

st m

ate

Lew

Rak

. How

do

you

feel

rig

ht n

ow?

Tire

d. W

hat d

o yo

u ho

pe h

appe

ns fo

r yo

u in

th

e fu

ture

? TI

’m re

ally

into

furn

iture

des

ign,

so

I wou

ld li

ke to

do

som

ethi

ng a

long

the

lines

of t

hat.

Jack wears COMPANY OF STRANGERS necklace, BLUE BLANK jacket, COMME DES GARÇONS pants

Becky wears SYLVESTER top, JIMMY D dress, KAREN WALKER earrings.

Wednesday wears trench SYLVESTER, shirt ITZME, dress STOLEN GIRLFRIENDS CLUB.

1 AM LI P

SY N C edM a d e l e i n e G u r t o n @ I M G

P h o t o g r a p h e d by B o n n i e H a n s e n @ Sy n c P r o d u c t i o n sfa s h i o n by E l l a M u r p h y

m a k e u p & h a i r by C h l o e L a n g f o r d @ W o r k A g e n cy

1 AM LI P

SY N C ed

Kimono OHIKO, necktie (worn throughout) OHIKO.

Suit EMMA MULLHOLLAND, sunglasses, POMS X PARED.

Kimono OHIKO, skirt (worn over) ZHIVAGO.

Shirt HANSEN AND GRETEL, skirt LOUIS VUITTON (vintage) from ARCADE VINTAGE, shoes LUCCHESI from ZOMP SHOES, socks LEVANTE.

jumpsuit ARCADE VINTAGE, sunglasses PARED, shoes JEFFERY CAMPBELL from ZOMP SHOEZ.

Jacket ONE FELL SWOOP.

Jumpsuit ARCADE VINTAGE, sunglasses PARED.

Jacket vintage BURBERRY from ARCADE VINTAGE.

Dress EMMA MULLHOLLAND, shoes ASOS.

Dress P.A.M, shoes ZOMP from ZOMP SHOEZ.

Coat NICHOLAS.

1 AM M ez Ko

With lock-out laws forcing the closure of some of our favourite live venues, it’s easy to become pessimistic about the state of the music scene in Sydney and to assume the quality of acts is on the decline as well. But with a serious attudite to making music and performing live - and looking great, emerging acts like MEZKO and NOIRE are giving us a whole new reason to be optimistic.

W O R D S J O E Y F E N A U G H T Y P H O T O G R A P H Y S A R A H R U G G

1 AM M ezc o

On the day that I had planned to meet Mezko’s Laura and Kat to do the interview for this article, Laura is rattled from ‘a morning from hell’ so we decide to postpone the interview for the next day before playing a show. We instead decide to meet up in Chinatown where they show me the best spot to get laksa followed by a stint playing video games at Market City’s Galaxy World instead which was pretty rad. Despite only knowing each other for three years, the pair are almost like sisters and when I meet them again at Surry Hills bar Shady Pines (where incidently they originally met) their spirits are much higher. The band are about to play a show and are excited to try out their new track Golden for which they had recently filmed a video. One of the things you notice hanging out with Mezko is that they really feed off each other’s energy and as we talk they are constantly finishing each other’s sentences and ideas. Kat also recalls some pretty hilarious stories from when they first started playing together.“The time when I realised that this band was probably going to be awesome was when I was running late and there was this really dodgy pub next to the rehearsal place and I told Laura to wait for me there. I was like ‘Oh she is either going to be scared and hiding up the back or she is going to be hanging with all the deros there’, but as soon as I walked in she was surrounded by all these sixty year old Italian dudes drinking martinis and we had to hang out with them for like an hour.”Having followed Mezko for some time now seening the band go through a few different format changes it’s clear to see how they’ve progressed. At the

gig following the interview they perform a heavier sounding set than what I’ve heard from them in the past, playing with the confidence of an act that has obviously spent some serious time honing their craft. Laura’s bass is chest rattling heavy tonight which she later admits with a laugh, “Wasn’t quite intentional.” Something that would have once bummed them out is now shrugging off with the self-assurance of a band that knows exactly how they want to sound. “It’s kind of ended up coming full circle to when we first met and decided we were going to be a band,” says Kat nonchalantly - a mocking testimont to their maturity as serious musicians.The chemistry the pair share extends to their song writing, an instinctive and organic process for which Laura explains, “Most of our songs start out as like transitional pieces to put between other songs when we play live, but then we are like ‘oh fuck this is kind of good maybe it should be its own song.’” These sort of happy accidents show just how effortlessly the two work together. This is especially evident on their recently released new song Golden where the band have started to really let the song be the focus. “The best thing about being a two piece is that we can just let the song do its thing,” says Laura. “We aren’t constricted by having to put drums in or do anything we don’t need to. We can just sort of emphasise the simplicity of the song, if that makes sense (laughs) which it probably doesn’t.” But in their own way simplicity is what Mezko do best, and listening to them weave their intricate basslines with expansive synths and breathy vocals to create a sound that is unlike any other band in the Sydney scene at the moment, it does make sense.

More MEZKO: Soundcloud YouTube

As the adorable Sydney based duo MEZKO, Laura Bailey and Kat Harley have been gathering momentum over the last three years in the live music scene winning fans with their moody electronic melodies, skeleton rattling bass and mesmerising stage presence. Now armed with a new single Golden and supporting video these girls are set to break out.

Opposite page: Mezko backstage at Oxford Arts Factory, Sydney.

1 AM N O I R E

“Hey man are you sure you don’t want a lift? It’s raining pretty heavily out there.” Noire’s Billy James is on the phone. Its 8pm on a cold rainy thursday night and Billy and his girlfriend, fellow band member Jess Mincher (vocals/keyboards), are expecting me at theirs for this interview. Its only a 10 min walk from my house but I am stuck on Oxford St. It’s freezing and the rain is getting heavier, so I gratefully accept his offer for the lift. Upon arriving at the house-cum-warehouse-cum-rehearsal studio the pair live and make music in it’s immediately obvious that the careful aesthetics evident in the musical and video output of NOIRE are echoed there. The place is immaculately furnished, with a drum kit in one corner and a piano in the other. This room is clearly where many of NOIRE’s songs have been born. Noire are an enigmatic three piece (rounded out by Billy’s brother, Chris, on bass) who have received rave reviews and been covered by everyone from Rolling Stone online to their local Gympie times. The group’s small-town roots are perhaps what gives them such humility. When asked about their own music, Jess can be dismissive. “Those days is kind of a silly pop song,” she say’s about their second release. But when you scratch a little further beneath the surface you see they are a band with a lot of focus. Starting off in a band that they describe as ‘awful’ (and refuse to name) the pair parted ways with their former Gympie bandmates and uprooted to Sydney where Noire was formed in early 2014. In the short time since they have released three singles, the recent Just Like Honey a beautifully melodic tune Jess says “Is about being stuck on something and someone and unable to move through that.”

Melancholy is a persistent theme in Noire’s music with the haunting title track from their new EP Baby Blue continuing the sombre tone. “It’s very rare that you would write a song when you feel amazing. It usually just comes from a different place.” Solitude is also an important part of her song-writing process. “I can’t really work on lyrics with other people. I have to be alone. Billy is good at collaborating with the music, but I usually just write my ideas in a book and then I try and put them to the melodies that he has already written.” Billy’s own musical chops were built up playing in family bands which he somewhat sheepishly admits gave him the confidence to start writing his own music. “I sort of realised I could write better than my Dad and then felt like I should start playing in my own bands,” he admits with a laugh. It seems like everything they have done musically before Noire was a warm up for what they really want to be doing now. “We spend a lot of time on our demos,” says Jess, sitting on their recent single Just Like Honey for almost a year and a half in various different forms. “There aren’t really any rules to how we write songs,” Billy continues. “We generally start with the melody and then add lyrics later, but it’s always changing.” With their impressive debut EP ‘Baby Blue’ having just dropped featuring new and previously released material, recorded by award-winning producer Wayne Connolly (Silverchair, Youth Group, The Vines) and with guest instrumentation from drummer Luke Davidson (The Preatures), it seems like the sky’s the limit for these three talented babes.

More NOIRE: Soundcloud YouTube

With 4 singles under their belt in just over a year and a stunning debut EP featuring the hypnotic title track Baby Blue having just dropped to rave reviews, swooning dark-pop trio NOIRE have quickly shed their small town roots to become one of Sydney’s most exciting indie bands on the rise.

Opposite page: Noire backstage at Oxford Arts Factory, Sydney.

1 A M

ra pT i n

pr i nts

TA L E A @ C LY N E M O D E L SP h o t o g r a p h e d by D AV I D K S H I E L D S

fa s h i o n bY C H R I S L O R I M E R

1 A M

ra pT i n

pr i nts

All clothes PARDON MY FRENCH, MEADOWLARK ring and septum ring used throughout.

All clothes ITZME.

All clothes ITZME,LOVESICK shoes.

All clothes KOWTOW, CHAOS & HARMONY shoes

Wrap dress BLAK LUXE.

All clothes COMPANY OF STRANGERS.

All clothes KOWTOW.

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