Dr. Umer Farooq Ph.D. in Textile Machatronics from University of Leads, UKM.Sc. University of Leads, UKChartered Textile Technologist.8 years Research and Teaching Experience Specialization: Yarn Spinning TopicInnovation in Textiles: Trends and Challenges

Dr. Tahir ShahCMRI, University of Bolton, UK

Dr. Umer FarooqUniversity of Management and Technology, LahoreINNOVATION IN TEXTILES: Trends and Challenges

CONTENTS What is innovation? Innovation - The Global Textile Industry Pakistani Textile Industry Perspective Industry University Interaction The Way Forward Conclusions

INTRODUCTION The global textile industry is increasingly facing competition from low-wage countries

Innovations in the production, composition and application of new textiles will be able to create stability in this sector

New technologies in textile production and processing are driving innovation in high-tech textile products

New processes will lead to new products and hence to an expansion of the traditional textile industries, both in terms of supply and production

Increasing globalization, new technologies and a growing demand for new products are changing the textiles market.

What is Innovation?Innovation is not the product of logical thought, although the result is tied to logical structure"

Albert Einstein

A definition of Innovation! There are various definitions of innovation, depending on the context. Innovation is a process for transforming:

Research Based IdeasCommercial Value

TO GROW, COMPANIES NEED TO BREAK OUT OF A VICIOUS CYCLE OF COMPETETIVE BENCHMARKING AND IMMITATION

W.Chan Kim & Rene Mauborgne, Think for yourself Stop Copying a Rival, Financial Times, 08-11-03

INNOVATIONMain Objectives of Innovation

The Innovation ProcessAn innovation starts as a concept that is refined and developed before application.

BASIC RESEARCHAPPLIED RESEARCHPRODUCT DEVELOPMENT (Including market research)ADAPTATION AND MARKETING

Components of an Innovation System

Benefits of R&D

ResearchDevelopmentInvestment in InnovationNew Products/ ProcessesCompany ProfitsIncreased InvestmentConsumer Benefits and SatisfactionMore Jobs More Goods Higher GNP

The Textile industry is subject to strong pressures in a fast- changing business environment due to two main factors: Market volatility and Strong competition world-wide

The industry need to enhance its capability to produce and market high quality and added value products

This requires emphasis on new technology, design, marketing and management

Textile manufacturers must consider when/how to innovateTextile Industry: The need to Innovate

Size of Major Global Industrial Sectors

Annual Sales (US$ Bn)Military 800Machine construction 800Automotive 1100Chemicals 1320Textiles 1620Information technology 2850Tourism 2900

LEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: IndustriesLEADERS IN INNOVATION: Industries

Chart2

6

5

14

1

3

1

3

9

3

8

13

28

1

5

Sheet1

USA3

AUSTRIA3

BEGIUM10

DENMARK6

FRANCE3

GERMANY44

INDIA1

IRELAND1

ISRAEL2

NERHERLAND5

POLAND1

SWEDEN1

SWITZERLAND13

UK7

ASSOCIATIONS6

AUTOMOTIVE5

CHEMICAL14

CONSULTING1

ELECTRONICS3

FINANCIAL INST1

MEDICAL3

OTHER MANUFAC9

PRESS3

REFINEMENT8

RESEARCH INST13

TEXTILES/FIBRES28

TRADE1

WEARABLES5

Sheet1

Sheet2

Sheet3

LEADERS IN TEXTILE INNOVATION: COUNTRIES

Chart1

3

3

10

6

3

44

1

1

2

5

1

1

13

7

Sheet1

USA3

AUSTRIA3

BEGIUM10

DENMARK6

FRANCE3

GERMANY44

INDIA1

IRELAND1

ISRAEL2

NERHERLAND5

POLAND1

SWEDEN1

SWITZERLAND13

UK7

Sheet1

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

0

Sheet2

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Some important market aspects

Market pull from fresh approach to future life styles/fashion Aging population better quality of life Changing market Changes in needs Highly functional sports and leisure wear Personal protection, safety and comfort Integration of textile technology, electronics and communication technologies

Increasing textile customer demands Hydrophobic Hydrophilic Anti-bacterial Barrier Breathability Antistatic Stretch Smart/Intelligent It is the consumer demand that leads to new innovative technologies and value added textile materials.

Water use, Energy useChemicals, Working conditions,Disposal, RecylingDynamic properties, Anti-microbialSelf-cleaning, Smart textiles, ComfortFlexibility: Small batches, Just in timeCustomized productionNew polymers, Renewable materials Factors impacting the future generation of textiles

Emerging finishing technologies for textiles Plasma technology Atmospheric and low-pressure Treatments

Microencapsulation technologyFunctional fabric finishing

NanotechnologyNano coating, Electrospinning

What is Nanotechnology?Nanotechnology deals with the science and technology at dimensions of roughly 1 to 100 nanometers (nm).

1 Billion Nanometres = 1 Metre

100 nanometers presently is the practically attainable dimension for textile products and applications.

Growth of NanotechnologyThe nature of nanotechnology research and development suggests that nanomaterials production is going to impact every industry, including textiles.

Nanotechnology currently being developed and used

Nanotechnology can be used in engineering desired textile attributes:Fabric softness, durability, and breathability

Developing advanced performance characteristics, namely: Water repellency, fire retardancy, antimicrobial resistance, etc.

In the forms of:Polymeric nanofibresConjugate fibres containing nano-particlesTextile materials with nanofinishesTextile coatings containing nano-particles

Nanotechnology presents a tremendous opportunity for the global textile industry to generate new products that could energize the economy, solve major societal problems, revitalize existing industry, and create entirely new businesses.

Impact of Nanotechnology on Textiles IndustryA recent report shows that:

The global market for nanotechnology in the Textiles industry was around US$480 million in 2007.

A number of nano-based products have already been introduced to the sector including stain, water and fire resistant fabrics.

Nano-based products and processes will be worth US$4.9 billion to the Textiles industry by 2015.

Nearly 25% of all textiles products available in 2015 will incorporate some form of nanotechnology -hygiene area, which covers numerous markets from household care to leisure and consumer goods to healthcare.

Nanotechnology based applications such self-cleaning textiles as will start to make a major impact from 2011.

Nanotechnology: functional finishing

The functional finishing are processes which impart specific performance properties to fabrics For example finishes that: Improve comfort Improve ease of maintenance Improve durability Provide environmental protection Provide biological resistance Self-cleaning fibresSmall things can create big businesses !!!

Active Areas of Textile R&D: Functional Textiles

Fragrance release textiles Photocatalytic textile coatings Shape Memory Polymers for Intelligent textiles Self-Cleaning Fabrics Carbon Nanotubes for Electronic Textiles Multifunctional Coatings for Medical Textile Applications Textile switches and sensors, and electronic noses Bioactive wound dressings Electrically conductive textiles Stain and water repellent textiles Healing textiles

Applications of Nanotechnology Based Textiles

Innovation: A Pakistani Textile Industry Perspective

Pakistani textile industry is a major contributor to the economy of the country The sector has not yet realised its full potential The industry is still too traditionally minded The industry needs to take full advantage of the developments in the global arena

Pakistani Textile Industry: As It appears --

Chart1

2108

1005

2038

1382

1751

1309

200

257

220

Pakistan's Main Exports (2005-06) Values in Million US $ TOTAL EXPORT 10270 Million US $

Sheet1

Cotton Fabrics2108

Made-Ups (Incl. Towels)1005

Cotton Yarn2038

Bed Ware1382

Hosiery1751

Ready-Made Garments1309

Synthetic Textiles200

Carpets & Rugs257

Other Textiles220

Sheet2

Sheet3

Export of Textile Products from 1971 - 2006Source: Textile Commission Organisation -TCO / Central Statistics Office, Pakistan

Sheet1

PRDUCTION, EXPORTS & DOMESTIC REQUIREMENT OF CLOTH

Qty. in MillionSq.Mtrs

PERIODMILL SECTORNON-MILL SECTORTOTAL PRODUCTIONEXPORTSAVAILABLE FOR

LOCAL MARKET

QUANTITY% OF PROD.QUANTITY% OF PROD.

1971-72628.19722.481350.67409.8130.34940.8669.66

1972-73588.61649.51238.11517.9841.84672.654.32

1973-74592.171236.551828.72353.0219.31448.5879.21

1974-75555.861271.221827.08440.8124.131386.2675.87

1975-76520.44982.921503.36463.8430.851040.369.2

1976-77408.291037.011445.3416.8428.841028.4671.16

1977-78391.351181.721573.07453.4728.831119.671.17

1978-79339.351147.751487.1531.5335.74955.5764.26

1979-80342.331377.691720.02545.7731.731174.368.27

1980-81307.891526.111834500.927.311333.172.69

1981-82325.021875.422200.44584.3526.561616.0973.44

1982-83335.541713.232048.77605.3329.551443.4470.45

1983-84296.61869.382165.98664.3830.671501.669.33

1984-85271.831728.172000687.6234.381312.3865.62

1985-86253.481731.921985.4727.3536.631258.0563.37

1986-87238.171771.682009.85693.4234.51316.4365.5

1987-88281.621949.22230.82848.6138.041382.2161.96

1988-89269.861980.142250845.3337.571404.6762.43

1989-90294.842439.932734.771017.8737.221716.9762.78

1990-91292.912561.0928541056.5337.021797.4762.98

1991-92307.932931.063238.991196.1236.932042.8763.07

1992-93325.43034.633601127.5833.562232.4266.44

1993-94314.913063.0933781046.7930.992331.2169.01

1994-95321.842778.913100.751160.6637.431940.1262.57

1995-96326.983379.0237061323.0935.72382.9164.3

1996-97333.53447.73781.21257.4333.252523.7766.75

1997-98340.283573.423913.71271.2732.482642.4367.52

1998-99384.564002.234386.791355.1730.893031.6269.11

1999-00437.194549.974987.161574.8831.583412.2868.42

2000-01490.165101.245591.4173631.053855.468.95

2001-02568.435084.665653.091957.3534.623868.3868.43

2002-03582.145068.385650.522005.3835.493645.1464.51

2003-04683.395051.96833.122412.8735.314420.2564.69

2004-05924.6755566480.672751.5642.463729.1157.54

2005-06915.265984.7469002653.2938.454246.7161.55

Chart1

24.55.4

28.85.9

25.47.1

14.18

25.65.8

14.65.8

8.34.5

115.9

11.84.5

11.75.9

10.66.6

13.56.5

14.87.3

9.26

14.56.5

17.15.7

16.75.8

18.36.2

22.66.1

29.47.1

30.47.6

35.17.4

34.86.4

27.46.3

27.95.9

30.18.3

25.87

23.810.4

26.113

27.39.7

26.99.3

279.1

23.89.9

27.19.2

Pak. Cotton Yarn Export (2004) :482200 Metric Tones (32% of the total production)

Pak. Cotton Cloth Export (2004): 282200 Metric Tones(40% of the total prod.)

COTTON YARN

COTTON CLOTH

Period

Share in World Export %

Pakistan's share in the world export of cotton yarn and cotton fabric(Source: Textile Commission Organisation -TCO / Central Statistics Office, Pakistan )

Sheet2

PAKISTAN SHARE OF TEXTILES IN WORLD TRADE

(000 Metric Tons)

PreiodCOTTON CLOTH

WORLD EXPORTPAKISTAN EXPORTPAK SHARE IN WORLD EXPORT %WORLD EXPORTPAKISTAN EXPORTPAK SHARE IN WORLD EXPORT %PeriodCOTTON YARNCOTTON CLOTH

1971446.9109.624.5901.548.45.41971446.9109.6197124.55.4

1972558.7160.728.8982.758.15.91972558.7160.7197228.85.9

1973579.1146.925.41,042.2073.87.11973579.1146.9197325.47.1

1974529.974.614.196977.581974529.974.6197414.18

197559715325.6965.156.25.81975597153197525.65.8

1976655.495.914.684148.85.81976655.495.9197614.65.8

1977565.446.78.3816.6374.51977565.446.719778.34.5

1978683.674.911869.651.65.91978683.674.91978115.9

1979753.588.811.81,305.7058.74.51979753.588.8197911.84.5

1980828.697.211.71,311.90785.91980828.697.2198011.75.9

1981796.484.610.61,292.0085.66.61981796.484.6198110.66.6

1982834.1112.513.51,323.6086.66.51982834.1112.5198213.56.5

1983958.5141.614.81,477.20107.37.31983958.5141.6198314.87.3

19841,022.4093.99.21,641.0097.8619841,022.4093.919849.26

19851,000.20145.214.51,643.50106.26.519851,000.20145.2198514.56.5

19861,187.20202.517.11,869.00105.85.719861,187.20202.5198617.15.7

19871,455.80243.416.72,112.70122.85.819871,455.80243.4198716.75.8

19881,286.60235.518.31,990.70123.86.219881,286.60235.5198818.36.2

19891,465.50331.322.62,271.601396.119891,465.50331.3198922.66.1

19901,484.50436.129.42,203.80156.37.119901,484.50436.1199029.47.1

19911,559.70474.230.42,221.00169.87.619911,559.70474.2199130.47.6

19921,627.80571.535.12,402.20178.87.419921,627.80571.5199235.17.4

19931,628.80567.434.82,540.30161.76.419931,628.80567.4199334.86.4

19941,942.80532.427.42,680.60170.16.319941,942.80532.4199427.46.3

19951,816.4050727.92,733.70160.85.919951,816.40507199527.95.9

19961,890.00569.630.12,644.30219.38.319961,890.00569.6199630.18.3

19971,950.10502.425.82,759.80194.3719971,950.10502.4199725.87

19981,763.40420.323.81,781.30185.610.419981,763.40420.3199823.810.4

19991,746.70455.126.11,776.00230.91319991,746.70455.1199926.113

20001956.6534.127.32571.8249.89.720001956.6534.1200027.39.7

20012090561.326.929122719.320012090561.3200126.99.3

20022043550.7273274299.29.120022043550.72002279.1

20032120503.523.828562839.920032120503.5200323.89.9

20041783482.427.13065282.29.220041783482.4200427.19.2

Chart2

127.581.51.96.10.93.23.2

200.5126.82.371.33.36.2

189.5143.97.516.34.98.68.3

92.3132.622.415.65.614.410.3

145137.525.118.33.721.510.2

118.41622514.23.330.411.8

107175.92612.94.830.49.8

197.6215.727.721.27.938.112.3

205.9244.131.726.51253.920

207241.465.347.920.675.223.2

196.7279.564.342.935.894.228.5

247.3281.493.839.167.5122.736.5

217.6360.264.146.653.3162.456

260.4305.949.649.75113242.6

279.2314.831.167.590.1206.154.6

506.1345.323.483.9123.9355.296.6

541485.430.3117.4136.9349.9134.3

600.8464.841.1140.4147.9335.5166.9

833.755928.8129.8190.8393.7273.7

1183675.879.6129.4246.2497.1333.6

1172.5819.451.2136.7284613.5425.1

1121.5863.139.9139351.6617.7464.1

1259.3820.629.1129.2285.6612.2509.1

1528.11081.438.2144.8340.2641.7688.5

1540.31275.939.5174.1422.2648.5703.4

1411.51262.436.2194.1456.3736.4688.9

1159.51250.358.1200.1508.8746.5696.7

945.21115.240.8177.7611651.2742.1

1071.61096.252.9195.6709.9771.7886.7

1076.6103550243734.9827.5910.3

942.31132.747.4269.8918.5882841.5

928.31345.673.2374.813291092.61146.6

11271711.77540413839931459

1057186367520145010881635

1383210839588203813101751

Cotton Yarn

Cotton Cloth

Tents and Canvas

Towels

Bed Wear

Garments

Hoisery

Period

Value in Million US $

Sheet3

EXPORT OF COTTON & COTTON MANUFACTURES

(Million US $)

COTTON MANUFACTURESCOTTON & COTTON WASTE

% OF TOTAL EXPORT% OF TOTAL EXPORT

PERIODCOTTONCOTTONTENT &COTTONTOWELSBEDOTHERGARMENTSHOSIERYTHREADCOTTONTOTALCOTTONCOTTONCOTTONCOTTONCOTTONCOTTONCOTTON

YARNCLOTHCANVASBAGSWEARMADE-UPSMANUF-EXPORTMANUF-ACTUREYARNCLOTHWASTEWASTE

ACTURE

1971-72127.581.51.91.26.10.91.23.23.22.3229590.738.821.613.8200.54.933.90.8

1972-73200.5126.82.34.571.30.93.36.23.2356817.343.624.515.5106.13130.4

1973-74189.5143.97.58.116.34.94.58.68.35.3396.91026.438.718.51434.23.53.30.3

1974-7592.3132.622.47.215.65.63.714.410.35.8309.9103929.88.912.8157.91.915.20.2

1975-76145137.525.17.918.33.7521.510.24378.21136.733.312.812.196.61.18.50.1

1976-77118.4162258.314.23.33.830.411.84.4381.61100.834.710.814.729.32.42.70.2

1977-78107175.926912.94.82.930.49.87.1385.81311.129.48.213.4112.41.68.60.1

1978-79197.6215.727.711.221.27.95.438.112.35.8542.91709.631.811.612.666.61.53.90.1

1979-80205.9244.131.721.226.5123.953.9207.1626.32364.726.58.710.3337.51.914.30.1

1980-81207241.465.335.747.920.611.175.223.210.1737.52957.524.978.2525.61.917.80.1

1981-82196.7279.564.331.442.935.89.794.228.57.7790.7249031.87.911.2278.51.111.20

1982-83247.3281.493.817.939.167.519.5122.736.512.8938.52707.734.79.110.4306.36.411.30.2

1983-84217.6360.264.115.546.653.322.9162.4568.61007.22768.136.47.913132.414.54.80.5

1984-85260.4305.949.612.149.75129.213242.64.8937.32491.237.610.512.3279.29.111.20.4

1985-86279.2314.831.19.567.590.152.2206.154.63.81108.93069.836.19.110.3513.35.316.70.2

1986-87506.1345.323.48.183.9123.951.1355.296.63.31596.93686.443.313.79.4446.55.912.10.2

1987-88541485.430.312.3117.4136.964.1349.9134.33.81875.54454.642.112.110.96109.213.70.2

1988-89600.8464.841.113.5140.4147.958.8335.5166.931972.84661.542.312.910929.612.319.90.3

1989-90833.755928.813.4129.8190.878.2393.7273.732504.24954.350.516.811.344327.88.90.6

1990-911183675.879.620.5129.4246.2108.9497.1333.63.43277.46133.153.419.311411.855.56.70.9

1991-921172.5819.451.232.4136.7284113.5613.5425.13.73652.1690452.91711.9518.359.77.50.9

1992-931121.5863.139.923.7139351.6125.5617.7464.14.83750.96813.555.116.512.7270.849.340.7

1993-941259.3820.629.117.3129.2285.6129.4612.2509.143795.86802.555.818.512.179.562.11.20.9

1994-951528.11081.438.219.1144.8340.2163.5641.7688.51.94647.58137.257.118.813.362.163.20.80.8

1995-961540.31275.939.524.6174.1422.2179.1648.5703.41.55009.18707.157.517.714.7506.857.25.80.7

1996-971411.51262.436.227.6194.1456.3208.7736.4688.91.75023.88320.360.41715.230.741.80.40.5

1997-981159.51250.358.123.1200.1508.8245.8746.5696.71.84890.78627.756.713.414.5126.142.21.50.5

1998-99945.21115.240.820.8177.7611255.3651.2742.11.54560.87779.358.612.214.32.328.100.4

1999-001071.61096.252.919.2195.6709.9307.6771.7886.71.35112.78568.659.712.512.872.636.40.80.4

2000-011076.610355019243734.9328.2827.5910.315225.59224.756.611.711.2138.1391.50.4

2001-02942.31132.747.418.2269.8918.5351.3882841.5-54049123.659.210.312.424.541.70.20.4

2002-03928.31345.673.218.2374.81329359.71092.61146.6-666811160.259.78.312.149..0470.40.4

2003-0411271711.7751840413834179931459-7587.71231.361.69.213.948500.30.4

2004-0510571863670520145046610881635081461439156.67.312.911000.70

2005-0613832108390588203841813101751-96351645158.68.412.868-0.4-

(US $ 10.211 BExports US $ 10.211 BN (62.1% OF TOTAL EXPORTS) Manufacturing46% OF TOTAL MANUFACTURING

Employment38% OF TOTAL LABOUR FORCE

GDP8.5% OF TOTAL GDP

Contribution to R&DRS 263 MILLION (

Global R&D spending targets

Country/regionR&D intensity in 2002 (Per cent of GDP)R&D targetTarget dateEuropean Union1.853.0percent of GDP2010Austria2.122.5percent of GDP2006Canada1.96Top 5 in OECD2010Germany2.533.0percent of GDP2010Korea2.53Significant > (x2)2007Norway1.67At least OECD average2005India0.8?????2010China1.23Significant >2010Pakistan

Innovation Index of selected countries in a study conducted in 2009 of 82 countries across the world. Patents data are averaged over 2004-07 and expressed as patents per million population for each country- Economist 2009

Countries

Innovation Performance

Patents

per

million

Innovation

Performance

Index

Rank

Japan

1274.533

10

1

Switzerland

505.839

9.71

2

Finland

363.289

9.5

3

USA

359.84

9.5

4

Singapore

111.37

8.75

16

UK

105.211

8.72

18

China

0.529

5.39

54

India

0.467

5.31

56

Pakistan

0.015

3.13

77

Economist 2009Innovation Performance Index of selected countries over a period of 5 years (2009 to 2013)

Countries

Innovation Performance

Expected

Innovation

Performance

Index

Rank

Growth %

Expected in

next 5

Years

Expected

Change

in Rank

China

5.98

46

11

8

India

5.72

52

7.7

4

Pakistan

3.42

77

9.1

0

(US $ 10.211 BCMRI Bolton University: Examples of Current Innovative R&D Wound dressings/bandages Wearable devices (Breast Cancer Detection) Active cooling fabrics Conducting flexible materials Auxetic Fibres Ballistic protection composite Hybrid geotextiles Nanocomposites

(US $ 10.211 BPakistan Textile Industry: The Way Forward Pakistani textile industry must adopt a fresh approach to technology adoption

The companies and government need to invest resources into R&D

Develop the ability to create specialized products

These could include textiles made using new technologies woven, knitting, nonwoven, etc.

New products surgical gowns, geotextiles, fabrics used in agriculture, high-fashion apparel, and fire-resistant work-wear.

The textile industry should be a knowledge-intensive industry - willing to look for and apply knowledge

Trying to match low-wage countries with low cost production - Surely a losing strategy.

(US $ 10.211 B

Pakistan Textile Industry: What is needed?

Improve infrastructure services as a foundation for technology development Improve higher education in science and engineering Link universities with private sector activities Breakdown barriers between university departments Promote innovative activities in science & technology Improve policy to create/promote innovative environment Focus on strategic and under-funded research areas

(US $ 10.211 B

Pakistan Textile Industry: Some Specific Actions

Establish Centres of Excellence> Education> R&D> Targeted workshops/training programmes Focus on new and emerging technologies> Technical textiles> Nonwovens> Medical Textiles> Geotextiles> Nanotechnology > Effluent minimisation and treatment/disposal

(US $ 10.211 BInnovation: Industry-University Interaction Benefits of universities, industry and society working together: Sponsored research projects: funding, equipment and resource donations Shared knowledge Source of employment New idea generation Universities and industrial organisations have much to gain from each other There is a strong need to improve interaction between these two important sectors This will enhance innovative activities in the textile sector An effective mechanism is needed to nurture this interaction

(US $ 10.211 BCONCLUSIONS

Innovation has become the major driving force in economic growth and social development in the West. This is reflected by the fact that Western countries are promoting innovation as one of their core strategies. Providing support for activities and initiatives that promote an innovative and knowledge driven economy.

A Final Thought !!!!!There are three kinds of organizations:

Those that resist change

Those that accept change

Those that seek change

Surely Allah does not change the condition of a people until they change their own condition.[Al-Qur'an (13:11) ]

INNOVATION IS NOT AN ABSOLUTE NECESSITY BUT THEN NEITHER IS SURVIVAL!Thank you

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