Volume 9 Issue 3, June-July, 2014Sommelier INDIA

GOING, GOING, GONE page 58

Auction Napa Valley

CHIANTI CLASSICO page 46

Tuscan Treasure

CHARDONNAY page 52

Golden Grape

SAUVIGNON BLANC page 38

New Zealand’s Sweetheart

KRSMA & CHAROSA page 20

Indian Wines

to watch

Special interest wine magazine for restricted circulation

For Indians around the world who enjoy the good life

`200

2

INDIA

Ed

ito

r’s

No

te

Is w

ine

cu

ltu

re in

In

dia

on

th

e d

ecl

ine

?

Th

e cu

rry

sho

ps

of

So

uth

all

in L

on

do

n a

re a

th

ing

of

the

pas

t an

d I

nd

ian

fin

e d

inin

g d

oes

n’t

sto

p a

t C

hic

ken

Tik

ka

Mas

ala

(oft

en d

escr

ibed

as

En

glan

d’s

nat

ion

al d

ish

). W

hat

’s e

ven

mo

re e

nco

ura

gin

g is

th

at I

nd

ian

foo

d is

now

bei

ng

pai

red

mo

re o

ffen

wit

h w

ine

than

wit

h b

eer

– t

he

on

ly b

ever

age

con

sid

ered

acc

epta

ble

wit

h i

t in

th

e p

ast.

We

nee

d t

o o

pen

up

ou

r m

ind

s an

d b

e

adve

ntu

rou

s. M

y ow

n c

uli

nar

y o

dys

sey

wit

h C

hât

eau

Mar

gau

x w

ines

at

a d

inn

er

in D

elh

i re

cen

tly

was

glo

rio

us

pro

of.

Page

74

.

How

do

es I

nd

ia r

ate

as a

win

e d

rin

kin

g cu

ltu

re?

Po

orl

y, I

’m a

frai

d.

Tru

e,

win

e d

rin

ker

s ar

e ea

ger

to lea

rn a

nd

en

larg

e th

eir

exp

erie

nce

. A

lso

tru

e th

at t

her

e

has

bee

n g

row

th i

n t

he

awar

enes

s an

d a

pp

reci

atio

n o

f w

ine

fro

m a

lev

el w

her

e it

was

alm

ost

no

n-e

xist

ent.

Bu

t th

e ea

rly

pac

e o

f p

rogr

ess

has

fal

tere

d. T

he

reas

on

–

and

yo

ur

gues

s is

rig

ht

– i

s o

ur

tan

gle

of

red

tap

e an

d c

on

trad

icto

ry r

egu

lati

on

s.

Wh

y is

im

po

rted

win

e –

eve

n t

he

affo

rdab

le s

up

erm

arket

var

iety

– s

o

exp

ensi

ve i

n I

nd

ia?

An

d w

hy

is t

her

e so

lit

tle

cho

ice?

Wh

y is

n’t

it

mo

re w

idel

y

and

eas

ily

avai

lab

le?

Th

e re

aso

ns,

dea

r re

ader

, ca

n a

ll b

e tr

aced

bac

k t

o m

ind

less

,

ann

oyi

ng,

tim

e-co

nsu

min

g, o

bst

ruct

ive

po

lici

es.

I’ve

had

to

o m

any

con

vers

atio

ns

wit

h I

nd

ian

win

e im

po

rter

s to

kn

ow

th

at t

his

is

a fa

ct. T

her

e is

lit

tle

ince

nti

ve f

or

them

to

im

po

rt m

ore

an

d b

ette

r q

ual

ity

win

es. E

ven

now

th

ey a

re b

attl

ing

agai

nst

new

lab

el r

egis

trat

ion

req

uir

emen

ts w

hil

e th

eir

con

sign

men

ts lan

guis

h in

bo

nd

ed

war

eho

use

s.

Th

e re

tail

co

st o

f an

im

po

rted

win

e go

es u

p b

y m

ore

th

an e

igh

t ti

mes

fro

m

its

FO

B p

rice

. Wh

y is

it

so m

uch

? It

’s a

go

od

qu

esti

on

. Co

nsi

der

th

e fa

cts:

th

e ad

d-

on

s ar

e C

ust

om

s D

uti

es,

C&

F c

har

ges,

Sto

rage

co

sts

in-b

on

d,

Sta

te d

uti

es,

and

then

, to

to

p it

all, t

he

bel

eagu

red

win

e im

po

rter

has

tra

de

mar

gin

s an

d m

arket

ing

exp

ense

s to

co

nte

nd

wit

h, am

ou

nti

ng

to a

rou

nd

40

%.

Now

th

at w

e h

ave

a n

ew g

ove

rnm

ent

in p

lace

wit

h a

n a

bso

lute

maj

ori

ty,

wil

l th

e el

ecti

on

pro

mis

e o

f b

ette

r d

ays

ahea

d (

Ab

ach

he

din

aa rahe

hain

) ex

ten

d t

o

the

hap

less

win

e co

nsu

mer

an

d w

ine

ind

ust

ry i

n g

ener

al?

Let

’s h

op

e so

.

Th

e C

hin

ese

win

e in

du

stry

, af

ter

a p

erio

d o

f ra

pid

gr

ow

th,

is fa

cin

g

pro

ble

ms

of

its

ow

n w

ith

win

e sa

les

fall

ing

shar

ply

. (C

hin

a se

lls

ove

r 3

5,0

00

,00

0

case

s o

f im

po

rted

w

ines

an

nu

ally

, co

mp

ared

to

o

ur

30

0,0

00

ca

ses)

. T

hei

rs

is a

pro

ble

m o

f ex

cess

an

d h

igh

sp

end

ing

wh

ich

has

res

ult

ed i

n a

gove

rnm

ent

crac

kd

ow

n. R

ead

Jan

cis

Ro

bin

son

’s a

rtic

le f

or

mo

re o

n t

his

on

page

12

.

Ind

ian

w

ines

h

ave

bee

n o

n a

roll

er co

aste

r ri

de

for

som

e ti

me

wit

h

flu

ctu

atin

g fo

rtu

nes

. T

wo

p

rod

uce

rs,

KR

SM

A an

d C

har

osa

, th

at sh

ow

gr

eat

pro

mis

e ap

pea

r o

n o

ur

cove

r. A

lth

ou

gh n

eith

er a

re a

vail

able

in

Del

hi

yet,

rea

d

the

acco

un

t by

Alo

k C

han

dra

an

d B

rin

da

Gil

l, r

esp

ecti

vely

, o

n p

age

s 2

0 a

nd

24

.

ww

w.f

aceb

ook.c

om

/so

mm

elie

rin

dia

ww

w.t

wit

ter.

com

/so

mm

elie

rin

dia

E-m

ail: r

ks@

india

nw

inem

aga

zine.

com

Sommelier IN

DIA

3

Poet

ry i

n a

bott

leI

read

you

r m

agaz

ine

and

lear

nt

man

y in

tere

stin

g

thin

gs,

and I

gat

her

th

at

if

you

ru

n

a m

agaz

ine

such

as

Som

mel

ier

India

,

so

full

of

info

rmat

ion

,

it

mea

ns

that

peo

ple

are

inte

rest

ed

in

win

e,

its

ritu

al,

and t

he

hu

ge

poet

ry b

ehin

d a

bott

le.

Eri

c A

sim

ov

wri

tes

that

the

you

ng

gen

erat

ion

is

con

sum

ing

less

win

e bec

ause

th

ere

are

man

y at

trac

tive

arti

san

al b

eers

on

th

e

mar

ket.

Bu

t yo

u’ll

agre

e w

ith

m

e th

at

even

if

som

e of

thes

e bee

rs c

an b

e go

od a

nd v

ery

dri

nkab

le,

ther

e is

not

the

sam

e am

ou

nt

of

work

beh

ind i

t as

ther

e is

in m

akin

g a

bott

le o

f w

ine.

Th

e vi

ne’

s se

ason

, th

e te

rroir

wh

ere

it g

row

s, th

e ca

pac

ity

and k

now

-how

of th

e vi

gner

on

, an

d

oth

er f

asci

nat

ing

fact

ors

th

at d

ress

a b

ott

le o

f w

ine

can

not

be

com

par

ed w

ith

a b

ott

le o

f bee

r.

— L

aura

di

Coll

ob

ian

o, vi

a em

ail.

ww

w.v

algi

ano.it

Die

har

d f

anI

am a

die

har

d f

an o

f yo

ur

super

b m

agaz

ine

and w

ou

ld love

to

wri

te a

n a

rtic

le. SI

enco

ura

ged m

e to

cle

ar W

SE

T L

evel

s 1 a

nd

2. I

als

o jo

ined

an

inte

rest

ing

Fin

e W

ine

Gro

up, a

bou

t w

hic

h a

n

arti

cle

was

wri

tten

in

SI,

an

d I

love

d t

he

pie

ce o

n F

icofi

.

— P

arag

Tri

pat

hi,

New

Del

hi

Sw

iss

Sec

rets

Th

e w

ine

and tr

avel

sto

ry a

bou

t Sw

itze

rlan

d w

as v

ery

inte

rest

ing.

I h

ad n

o idea

Sw

itze

rlan

d m

ade

such

good w

ines

. W

e kn

ow

all

abou

t Sw

itze

rlan

d a

s th

e bea

uti

ful l

oca

le o

f man

y In

dia

n m

ovi

es.

Sw

iss

choco

late

s, S

wis

s w

atch

es a

nd, of

cou

rse,

Sw

iss

ban

ks a

re

som

eth

ing

on

e oft

en rea

ds ab

ou

t. S

wis

s ch

eese

, mu

esli, r

ost

i an

d

fon

du

e ar

e fo

ods

I as

soci

ate

wit

h S

wit

zerl

and,

bu

t I

nev

er e

ver

thou

ght

of

win

e! T

he

nex

t ti

me

I’m

in

Sw

itze

rlan

d, I’

ll m

ake

a

poin

t of ta

stin

g Sw

iss

win

e.

— V

Gop

inat

h, vi

a em

ail

Switze

rlan

d’s

win

e pr

oduct

ion i

s sm

all,

even

for

its

ow

n n

eeds

. It

is

in

the

top

10 c

ountr

ies

of t

he w

orld

for

per

cap

ita

win

e co

nsu

mpt

ion b

ut

has on

ly 1

5,0

00 h

a unde

r vi

ne.

Ver

y lit

tle

Swiss w

ine

is e

xpor

ted

and

it

is e

xpen

sive

due

to the

hig

h co

st o

f la

nd

and

labo

ur.

Ed.

Re

ad

ers

Wri

te

Fre

nch

n

ati

on

al,

Ro

ma

in

Bo

nn

au

d

dis

cov

ere

d

the

Ind

ian

w

ine

m

ark

et

as

a

con

sult

an

t w

hile

liv

ing

in

De

lhi.

A

me

mb

er

of

the

So

mm

eli

er

Ind

ia

Tast

ing

Pa

ne

l fr

om

20

10

to

20

12

,

he

is

a s

pe

cia

list

in F

ren

ch w

ine

s a

nd

pa

rtic

ula

rly

fon

d o

f th

e w

ine

-pro

du

cin

g r

eg

ion

s o

f B

urg

un

dy

an

d

Ch

am

pa

gn

e.

On

e

tim

e

sale

s a

nd

m

ark

eti

ng

ma

na

ge

r fo

r a

fa

mo

us

win

e m

erc

ha

nt

in F

ran

ce,

he

no

w li

ve

s in

Pro

ve

nce

, wh

ere

he

is in

ch

arg

e o

f w

ine

for

a p

rom

ine

nt

ba

nk

an

d h

ea

ds

a r

eg

ion

al

win

e

soci

ety

. B

on

na

ud

wri

tes

ab

ou

t th

e g

old

en

gra

pe

–

Ch

ard

on

na

y in

th

is is

sue

.

Rom

ain

Bonn

aud

Co

ntr

ibu

tors

Mir

a

Ad

va

ni

Ho

ne

ycu

tt

is

a

Los

An

ge

les

ba

sed

jou

rna

list

an

d

au

tho

r o

f

“Ca

lifo

rnia

’s

Ce

ntr

al

Co

ast

,

Th

e U

ltim

ate

Win

ery

Gu

ide

: Fr

om

Sa

nta

Ba

rba

ra t

o

Pa

so R

ob

les”

. S

he

ha

s ch

ron

icle

d t

he

ne

w a

nd

old

wo

rld

of

win

e a

pa

rt f

rom

wri

tin

g o

n i

nte

rna

tio

na

l

cin

em

a.

He

r w

ork

ha

s a

pp

ea

red

in

Ha

rpe

r’s

Ba

zaa

r

(In

dia

), t

he

Asi

an

Wa

ll S

tre

et

Jou

rna

l, Lo

s A

ng

ele

s

Tim

es

an

d

Ho

ng

K

on

g’s

B

acc

ara

t a

nd

Ta

tle

r

ma

ga

zin

es

am

on

gst

oth

er

pu

blic

ati

on

s. H

ere

, sh

e

reca

ps

last

ye

ar’

s N

ap

a W

ine

Au

ctio

n a

nd

re

po

rts

on

wh

at’

s u

pco

min

g in

20

14

.

Mir

a Ad

vani

Ho

neyc

utt

Go

vin

d

Dh

ar

is

ba

sed

in

Ne

w

De

lhi

an

d

is

the

fo

rme

r e

xecu

tiv

e

ed

ito

r o

f R

ob

b

Re

po

rt

Ind

ia.

For

the

pa

st t

en

yea

rs, h

e h

as

wri

tte

n o

n

tra

ve

l, lu

xury

a

nd

th

e

art

s fo

r le

ad

ing

In

dia

n

an

d i

nte

rna

tio

na

l p

ub

lica

tio

ns.

Th

is t

ime

he

vis

its

Le C

los,

th

e l

uxu

ry w

ine

an

d s

pir

its

sto

re a

t D

ub

ai

Inte

rna

tio

na

l Air

po

rt t

o g

ive

us

a f

ull

acc

ou

nt.

Govi

nd D

har

52

Som

melier IN

DIA

WIN

ES o

f Fra

nce

– Bu

rgun

dy

Cha

rdon

nay,

�e

gold

en

gra

pe o

f Bur

gund

y

Fro

m M

eu

rsa

ult

to

Ch

ass

ag

ne

th

rou

gh

Pu

lign

y-M

on

tra

che

t, S

I Fr

en

ch c

orr

esp

on

de

nt,

Ro

ma

in B

on

na

ud

un

veils

th

e s

ecr

ets

of

an

intr

ica

te p

atc

hw

ork

of

terr

oir

s in

Bu

rgu

nd

y a

nd

inv

ite

s u

s to

d

isco

ve

r th

is n

arr

ow

str

ip o

f la

nd

th

at

pro

du

ces

wo

rld

-fa

mo

us

wh

ite

win

es

ren

ow

ne

d f

or

the

ir b

ala

nce

an

d d

elic

acy

Sommelier IN

DIA

53

Bu

rgu

nd

y is

a w

ine-

pro

du

cin

g re

gion

loca

ted

in

eas

t-

cen

tral

Fra

nce

. Love

rs o

f gr

eat

Ch

ard

on

nay

usu

ally

spea

k i

ts n

ame

wit

h r

ever

ence

bec

ause

th

e w

hit

e

win

es g

row

n i

n t

he

Côte

des

Bla

ncs

are

som

e of

the

fin

est ex

amp

les

of d

ry C

har

don

nay

pro

du

ced

in th

e w

orl

d.

A B

LE

ND

OF

CH

AR

DO

NN

AY

GR

AP

ES

AN

D C

OM

PL

EX

TE

RR

OIR

S

Sou

th o

f B

eau

ne,

wit

hin

th

e C

ôte

de

Bea

un

e, o

nce

pas

t th

e

char

min

g vi

llag

es o

f Pom

mar

d a

nd

Voln

ay fam

ou

s fo

r th

eir

red

win

es f

rom

Pin

ot

Noir

gra

pes

, w

e en

ter

the

Côte

des

Bla

ncs

.

Wh

ile

it d

oes

not

corr

esp

on

d t

o a

n o

ffic

ial

app

ella

tion

, it

per

fect

ly

des

crib

es

the

geolo

gica

l re

alit

y of

the

terr

oir

s of

Meu

rsau

lt,

Pu

lign

y-M

on

trac

het

an

d C

has

sagn

e-M

on

trac

het

,

all

par

ticu

larl

y w

ell

suit

ed t

o t

he

Ch

ard

on

nay

gra

pe

by

virt

ue

of

thei

r m

arl, l

imes

ton

e an

d g

rave

l so

ils.

Man

y of

the

worl

d’s

most

re

now

ned

(a

nd

ex

pan

sive

) w

hit

e w

ines

co

me

from

this

lit

tle

area

fac

ing

the

risi

ng

sun

. T

hey

are

con

sid

ered

a

ben

chm

ark f

or

win

emak

ers

ever

ywh

ere.

As

is w

ell

kn

ow

n,

in B

urg

un

dy,

th

e w

ine

regi

on

is

very

split

up

an

d c

om

pri

ses

nu

mer

ou

s p

lots

of

lan

d,

wh

ich

oft

en

corr

esp

on

d t

o a

sp

ecif

ic s

oil,

wit

h i

ts o

wn

dis

tin

ctiv

e ty

pe

of

grou

nd

, sl

op

e an

d e

xposu

re.

Th

anks

to t

hei

r ex

cepti

on

al

Cha

rdon

nay,

�e

gold

en

gra

pe o

f Bur

gund

y

Th

e v

illa

ge

of

Me

urs

au

lt w

ith

ro

ws

of

vin

es

in t

he

fo

reg

rou

nd

54

Som

melier IN

DIA

qu

alit

y of

terr

oir

, so

me

clim

ats

(sp

ecif

ic p

arce

ls o

f vi

ney

ard

in

Bu

rgu

nd

y) a

re c

lass

ifie

d a

s P

rem

iers

Cru

s or

Gra

nd

s C

rus.

Th

e C

ôte

des

Bla

ncs

off

ers

a bro

ad-r

angi

ng

spec

tru

m o

f

soils

and

wea

ther

pat

tern

s th

at g

ive

a st

rikin

g co

mp

lexi

ty t

o

the

wh

ite

win

es f

rom

Ch

ard

on

nay

gra

pes

. A

nd

th

e h

um

an

inte

rven

tion

, w

ith

re

stri

cted

yi

eld

s,

enh

ance

s th

is

grea

t

pote

nti

al.

Aft

er t

he

Ch

ard

on

nay

gra

pes

are

har

vest

ed,

a go

od

per

cen

tage

of th

e w

ines

are

fer

men

ted

in

sm

all o

ak b

arre

ls a

nd

also

age

d i

n o

ak b

arre

ls.

Man

aged

pre

cise

ly,

the

wood

ad

ds

com

ple

xity

, d

epth

, bod

y, f

lavo

ur

and

lon

gevi

ty t

o t

he

win

es.

Th

e vi

llag

es

of

Pu

lign

y-M

on

trac

het

an

d

Ch

assa

gne-

Mon

trac

het

hold

th

e d

isti

nct

ion

of

poss

essi

ng

no f

ewer

th

an

five

wh

ite

Gra

nd

s C

rus,

at

on

ce i

nte

nse

, h

arm

on

iou

s an

d

ble

ssed

wit

h a

wh

olly

rem

arkab

le d

isti

nct

ion

. O

ne

of

them

,

the

“Mon

trac

het

”, is

con

sid

ered

by

man

y w

ine

love

rs t

o b

e th

e

grea

test

wh

ite

win

e in

th

e w

orl

d. T

he

Fre

nch

wri

ter

Ale

xan

dre

Du

mas

rec

om

men

ded

th

at i

t sh

ou

ld b

e d

run

k “

on

ben

ded

kn

ee a

nd

bar

e-h

ead

ed”!

ME

UR

SA

UL

T

EM

BL

EM

OF

GR

EA

T W

HIT

E B

UR

GU

ND

Y W

INE

S

Th

e vi

llag

e of

Meu

rsau

lt i

s an

att

ract

ive

pla

ce i

n t

he

hea

rt o

f

the

Bu

rgu

nd

y w

ine

regi

on

an

d a

par

adis

e fo

r st

un

nin

g w

hit

e

win

es fro

m C

har

don

nay

! Th

e C

hât

eau

de

Meu

rsau

lt, a

n e

lega

nt

wh

ite

ston

e bu

ild

ing,

ow

ns

60 h

ecta

res

of

vin

es a

nd

on

e of

the

big

gest

cel

lars

in

th

e re

gion

. M

eurs

ault

, th

anks

to its

worl

dw

ide

repu

tati

on

, is

a t

rue

sym

bol

of

the

wh

ite

win

es o

f B

urg

un

dy.

It

off

ers

Pre

mie

rs C

rus

(“L

es P

erri

ères

”, “

Les

Ch

arm

es”

and

“L

es

Gen

evri

ères

” ar

e th

e m

ost

fam

ou

s) b

ut

no G

ran

d C

ru.

Th

e so

ils

show

a h

igh

pro

port

ion

of

mar

l an

d c

lay,

wh

ich

imp

art

fat

and

op

ule

nce

to t

he

win

es.

A v

ery

hea

dy

bou

qu

et

of

haz

eln

uts

, al

mon

ds,

cru

st o

f bre

ad,

and

som

etim

es b

utt

er

or

hon

eysu

ckle

, oft

en c

har

acte

rise

s M

eurs

ault

win

es. T

hey

are

full, ro

un

d, p

ow

erfu

l an

d a

ge v

ery

wel

l.

Aft

er

a w

on

der

ful

tast

ing

at

the

Dom

ain

e M

atro

t d

o

not

mis

s th

e fa

mou

s “P

aulé

e d

e M

eurs

ault

”, a

cel

ebra

tion

ban

qu

et a

t th

e en

d o

f th

e h

arve

st,

hel

d o

n t

he

thir

d M

on

day

of

Nove

mber

: a

mu

st-a

tten

d for

win

e lo

vers

to w

hic

h e

very

on

e

bri

ngs

som

e gr

eat

bott

les

to t

aste

an

d s

har

e.

PU

LIG

NY

-MO

NT

RA

CH

ET

WH

ER

E C

HA

RD

ON

NA

Y R

EIG

NS

SU

PR

EM

E

Pu

lign

y w

as o

ne

of

two v

illa

ges

(th

e oth

er i

s C

has

sagn

e) t

hat

gain

ed p

erm

issi

on

in

187

9 t

o h

yph

enat

e th

e n

ame

of

its

most

fam

ou

s vi

ney

ard

, M

on

trac

het

, to

its

ow

n.

Nes

tled

bet

wee

n C

has

sagn

e-M

on

trac

het

an

d M

eurs

ault

,

the

vill

age

of

Pu

lign

y-M

on

trac

het

p

rod

uce

s se

du

ctiv

e an

d

aro

mat

ic w

hit

e w

ines

, o

ffer

ing

a fl

ora

l el

egan

ce a

lon

gsid

e a

styl

ish

, st

eely

co

nce

ntr

atio

n.

Th

ey h

ave

mo

re m

iner

alit

y in

thei

r ea

rly

year

s in

co

mp

aris

on

to

th

eir

illu

stri

ou

s n

eigh

bo

urs

.

Exu

din

g n

ote

s of

alm

on

d p

aste

, w

hit

e fl

ow

ers

and

exo

tic

Do

ma

ine

Ma

tro

t w

ine

bo

ttle

s w

ith

scr

ew

cap

clo

sure

s

Ha

rve

stin

g g

rap

es

in t

he

vin

ey

ard

s o

f D

om

ain

e

Oli

vie

r L

e!

aiv

e. B

elo

w:

Mo

ntr

ach

et

Gra

nd

Cru

Photo courtesy: Serge Chapuis

Sommelier IN

DIA

55

fru

its,

th

eir

acid

ity

stea

dily

dec

lin

es o

ver

tim

e, r

esu

ltin

g in

a

kin

d o

f m

ello

wn

ess

wit

h a

n i

mp

ress

ive

pow

er.

Th

e P

rem

iers

Cru

s “L

es C

om

bet

tes”

, “L

e C

ailler

et”

or

“Les

Pu

celles

” bel

on

g

amon

g th

e ar

isto

crac

y of

Pu

lign

y-M

on

trac

het

.

CHASSAGNE-M

ONTRACHET

TH

E M

OS

T S

OU

TH

ER

LY

OF

TH

RE

E G

RE

AT

VIL

LA

GE

S

At

the

sou

ther

n e

nd

of

the

Côte

des

Bla

ncs

, th

e C

has

sagn

e-

Mon

trac

het

win

es a

re o

ften

des

crib

ed a

s p

osi

tion

ed som

ewh

ere

bet

wee

n t

hose

of

Pu

lign

y-M

on

trac

het

an

d M

eurs

ault

: le

ss f

ine

than

Pu

lign

y, le

ss r

ich

th

an M

eurs

ault

bu

t co

nta

inin

g el

emen

ts

of

both

. Fac

ing

east

an

d s

ou

thea

st, th

ese

wh

ite

win

es’ so

ils

are

mai

nly

com

pose

d o

f bro

wn

cla

y an

d lim

esto

ne.

Wit

h n

ote

s of

rip

e ap

ple

, ac

acia

, h

on

ey a

nd

haz

eln

ut,

th

ey d

evel

op

vig

oro

us

inte

nsi

ty a

llie

d t

o t

rem

end

ou

s el

egan

ce.

Fu

ll-b

od

ied

, th

ey a

re

lon

g on

th

e p

alat

e. T

he

bes

t w

hit

e P

rem

ier

Cru

vin

eyar

ds

incl

ud

e “C

ailler

ets”

, “R

uch

ott

es”,

an

d “

La

Bou

dri

ott

e”.

SO

ME

OU

TS

TA

ND

ING

WIN

ES

Her

e ar

e tw

o d

om

ain

s th

at p

rod

uce

gre

at w

hit

e w

ines

fro

m th

e

Côte

des

Bla

ncs

th

at I

sin

gled

ou

t d

uri

ng

my

rece

nt

tast

ings

:

Dom

ain

e M

atr

ot

Th

ierr

y M

atro

t pro

du

ces

a w

ide

ran

ge o

f

wh

ite

Bu

rgu

nd

y w

ines

. H

is g

oal

is

the

sam

e fo

r al

l of

his

win

es:

an h

on

est

expre

ssio

n o

f both

ter

roir

an

d v

inta

ge.

He

abh

ors

extr

emes

, bel

ievi

ng

that

im

bal

ance

s in

w

ines

h

ave

a kn

ock

-

on

eff

ect

wh

en a

ccom

pan

yin

g fo

od

. A

noth

er p

et h

ate

is o

ver-

mat

uri

ty i

n t

he

grap

es,

like

wis

e ex

cess

ive

use

of

oak

. T

aut

and

refi

ned

wh

en y

ou

ng,

his

win

es a

ge b

eau

tifu

lly.

A m

ust

for

win

e

love

rs! w

ww

.matr

ot.c

om

Dom

ain

e

Oli

vie

r

Lefl

aiv

e

Olivi

er

Lef

laiv

e is

on

e of

Bu

rgu

nd

y’s

most

re

spec

ted

w

ine

pro

du

cers

, off

erin

g w

ines

of

exce

pti

on

al

qu

alit

y,

con

sist

ency

an

d

styl

e fr

om

vi

llag

e

app

ella

tion

s an

d

cru

vi

ney

ard

s ac

ross

th

e le

gen

dar

y C

ôte

de

Bea

un

e. T

he

hal

lmar

k st

yle

of

Olivi

er L

efla

ive

is ea

se,

acce

ssib

ilit

y an

d c

har

m.

All t

he

ind

ivid

ual

win

es,

from

ver

y

vari

ed s

oils

and

asp

ects

, re

veal

mar

ked

ly d

iffe

ren

t ch

arac

ters

.

Th

ese

are

win

es t

o b

e en

joye

d i

n t

hei

r yo

uth

, ev

en a

t th

e

top

en

d,

as t

hat

is

wh

en t

hey

are

at

thei

r m

ost

ch

arm

ing.

ww

w.o

livi

er-le

flaiv

e.co

m

WIN

E A

ND

FO

OD

My

favo

uri

te food

com

bin

atio

n w

ith

wh

ite

Bu

rgu

nd

y is

lobst

er

or

scal

lop

. Sm

oke

d s

alm

on

an

d l

igh

t-fl

avou

red

goat

’s c

hee

se

can

be

also

a g

ood

pai

rin

g w

ith

rec

ent

vin

tage

s. O

n r

ead

ing

“Tra

vellin

g D

iva”

, th

e co

okbook b

y th

e ex

cellen

t ch

ef,

Rit

u

Dal

mia

, I

wou

ld s

ugg

est

pai

rin

g w

hit

e B

urg

un

dy

win

e fr

om

the

Côte

des

Bla

ncs

wit

h p

raw

n a

nd

raw

pap

aya

sala

d,

mix

ed

sala

d w

ith

egg

pla

nt

and

fet

a ch

eese

, re

d s

nap

per

cev

ich

e or

seaf

ood

sp

agh

etti

in

a p

aper

par

cel. W

hit

e B

urg

un

dy

win

es a

re

bes

t en

joye

d a

t ar

ou

nd

12°

C. �

BO

NN

AU

D’S

TIP

SH

EE

T

T

he

Ma

iso

n L

am

elo

ise

at

Ch

ag

ny

is m

y f

av

ou

rite

go

urm

et

rest

au

ran

t in

Fra

nce

. It

wa

s p

lace

d �

rst

in t

he

ra

nk

ing

s o

f Tra

ve

lle

r’s

Ch

oic

e R

est

au

ran

t

Aw

ard

s 2

01

3 b

y T

rip

Ad

vis

or.

Eri

c P

ras

an

d F

réd

éri

c

La

my

run

th

is t

err

i�c

thre

e-s

tar

rest

au

ran

t.

www.lameloise.fr

F

or

a c

osy

sta

y in

Be

au

ne

, th

e w

ine

ca

pit

al o

f

Bu

rgu

nd

y, L

’Oct

roi S

ain

t Ja

cqu

es

is a

ch

arm

ing

gu

est

ho

use

loca

ted

wit

hin

10

0 m

etr

es

of

the

fam

ou

s H

osp

ice

s d

e B

ea

un

e o

r H

ôte

l-D

ieu

.

www.chambredhoteabeaune.fr

“

Th

e W

ine

s o

f B

urg

un

dy

” b

y S

ylv

ain

Pit

iot

an

d

Jea

n-C

ha

rle

s S

erv

an

t is

a r

eg

ula

rly

up

da

ted

min

e

of

info

rma

tio

n f

or

win

e lo

ve

rs. Y

ou

ca

n a

lso

wa

tch

the

re

cen

t �

lm, “

A y

ea

r in

Bu

rgu

nd

y: O

ne

ye

ar

wit

h

the

pe

op

le w

ho

ma

ke w

ine

like

no

on

e e

lse

in t

he

wo

rld

”.

B

e s

ure

to

vis

it t

he

Ath

en

ae

um

de

la V

ign

e e

t d

u

Vin

in t

he

cit

y o

f B

ea

un

e, o

ne

of

the

larg

est

lib

rari

es

in B

urg

un

dy

an

d F

ran

ce’s

big

ge

st b

oo

ksh

op

de

vo

ted

to

win

e (www.athenaeum.com).