Upon entering the Berns Boardroam in Roth Hall on the campus of the Culinary Institute of America, the first thing out of Daniel Boulud’s mouth is “Intimidating. Always.” Overwhelmed by the number of bodies in the room, Chef Boulud exudes a humility that belies his accomplishments: Eight restaurants in New York City, including the eponymous Daniel that has the coveted three Michelin stars, and seven other restaurants around the world, including in Palm Beach, Beijing, and Singapore.

At the CIA to give the commencement address for the AOS graduation in late December, which Chef Boulud called one of his “pridest” moments here since living in the United States, he said that the CIA represents “everything” to our industry. Certainly, he said, it is one of the main sources of talent for the industry.

“Food is a wonderful and universal opportunity. Whatever they (the students) choose, they need to choose to work for someone who will help them to cement the beginning of their career. They need to give enough time to the person they choose to work for to cement that relationship, to be able to lean on this star for the rest of their life. The beginning is the most important part of the career.”

He went on to say that travel is an extremely important part of building a career, as well. It is one of the things that caused him to choose to be a chef, he says. “It’s how I ended up in America,” he reports. “I am French, and I came here, and the first two or three years in America, I visited the south, the west, the Rockies – all different parts of America, and I felt there was a lot of soul in the food.” Traveling abroad, and even in his home country of France, has inspired him. “A perfect charcuterie will inspire me, because it’s authentic and it’s beautiful and it’s special,” Boulud remarks.

Some of his favorite food destinations in the United States are New Orleans, San Francisco, the entire state of California, the Northeast, and New England. However, the first real trip he made to see how food had an impact here in the U.S. was in Lancaster, PA. He observed the large Pennsylvania Dutch community going to the local Farmer’s Market with all the food they had made – by horse. “The cheese, the eggs, the chicken, the vegetables, the pies – you could really see that a community exists around food. But the excitement in America is the ethnicities, as well. You go to

Chinatown, you go to Little Cuba in Miami…”Chef Boulud says that his favorite food

destination is the “Mediterranee.” Not the Mediterranean, per se, but Spain, the south of France, Italy, Greece, and Turkey. “It’s a way of life. For me, it’s significant with relaxing. So, it’s good. I go there to relax and enjoy beautiful food. But of course when I go to Tokyo, when I go to Singapore, when I go to Brazil, I discover new ingredients, I discover new tastes, I discover things that always make me excited to be there.”

However, he doesn’t always find food on his travels. Chef Boulud says that he always has almonds and dried fruits with him, because one time, traveling through rural China, it was impossible to find a village with a restaurant. “Since then, I always carry the dried fruits and almonds with me. It’s healthy, it’s a good snack!”

When asked if his restaurants utilize the bounty of ingredients from the Hudson Valley, Chef Boulud answers, “Of course. Having a restaurant in New York City, we look at the Hudson Valley, Long Island, we look at New Jersey. We look at a radius of about 150 miles, there is an amazing array of support. I have a friend, Andre Balazs, are you familiar with his farm in the Hudson Valley? It is quite interesting, actually. He does cheese, he does all kinds of things. He is a hotelier (and

restauranteur) in New York.” He was asked about how he sees the industry

changing for the CIA’s current graduates. “Lean on the classics because there’s nothing hotter than to make a perfect classic,” he says. “I think it’s important to understand and master the classics. Cooking has that repetitive pattern and it is consistent, and consistency is the most important thing.”

The interviewer wanted to know if Chef Boulud thought that American cooking was coming into it’s own. “Yeah, of course,” he said. “Thirty years ago… forty years ago, that was the beginning of producing American chefs really. Of course there were hotels and restaurants and things, but they were in an apprenticeship program or they ended up in the business, but they weren’t really properly schooled to start in the business. I remember when I arrived in New York, the first cooks that I had, Frank Crispo, Scamardella, they all graduated from the CIA. La Cote Basque

was filled with cooks from the CIA, and Charlie Palmer was there, and Todd English. I basically grew up as a chef with graduates who came out of the CIA. A lot of my current employees come from the CIA. It’s hard to escape here,” he

laughs.He was also asked to describe American cuisine

today. He says, “Thomas Keller is one of the most celebrated American chefs, but yet, he is cooking French cuisine more than anything. But what is French cuisine? It’s cuisine where we start with the ingredient, and we start with the seasonality, and we start with the proximity, and then from that is the creativity and the technique and the personalization. So I think American cuisine today, what’s emerging, it’s definitely a focus on the proximity of ingredients, and what does that represent for this region, and sometimes there is an attachment to the past as a connection to a classical tradition, also a real eclectic evolution around that. You go to Boston and you go to a chef who is a real New England chef but also likes to play with Asian f lavor, whatever inspires him. At the end, there’s few schools of American cuisine, just like there’s few schools of French cuisine, there’s the classic, there’s the regional, there’s in France sort of the bistro cooking and the cuisine bourgeois, here in America is a more casual approach to cooking, which is a little bit more eclectic.

Volume 33, No.37

ON CAMPUS P 4-5

FOOD & BEVERAGE P 8-9

BACK PAGE P 12CENTER SPREAD P 6-7

Culinary Culture P 3

What’s In Season? Citrus!

January 16, 2014

The Extern Files A Taste of Home All in GoodTaste. . .

D o r m R o o m R e c i p e s

Daniel BouluD Visits CampusBY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

Photo Credit: Amy Zarichnak

Continued on Page 4

Former La Papillote Editor-in-Chief, Stephanie Kirkland, Chef Daniel Boulud, , and current Editor-in-Chief, Amy Zarichnak.

Happy New Year! Welcome back to campus!As I hit the ground running as the new editor of La Papillote,

my first thoughts were focused on providing not just news to the students, but in trying to be of service to you, as well. How can I help? What information can I provide to you that will cause you to laugh, that will get you talking about things that are happening on campus, and cause you to get involved? What can I say that will make you think, that will make you want to strive to be a better person?

I want to help to provide a culture at the school (and this definitely applies to the newspaper staff), where you can show up to the party, be yourself, be accepted, and bring whatever gifts you have and be celebrated for them. Each one of you has a gift and an ability to do something in a way that no one else can. I want to see it.

The only way you can truly succeed in life is to help others to achieve their goals. We’re all connected. What you do affects other people. Do good, and good will come to you. If you are kind on your pursuit of your goals, other people will help you to achieve them. You scratch my back, I scratch yours. If someone likes you, and knows you work hard, they will hire you. It behooves you to do your best. Not because someone told you to, but because that’s the best way for you to achieve the life of

your dreams, without question.Think of this, as you proceed through your classes here. There are so many chefs here who are

willing to help you. While you think you are making friends, these people in your classes are going to be your connections in the industry when you get out in the working world (which is sooner than you think, my friends!). You will undoubtedly be calling in a favor or two from some of them at some point. Be willing to do the same for them. Start your networking now. Be one of those people who everyone likes.

Get involved. The experience and knowledge you gain here will open doors for you when you graduate. You may think you don’t have time to join a club, but the benefits gained from doing so are far greater than spending your free time on Facebook or Pinterest.

Talk to people you don’t know. Find out what they’re about. We just went around our Menu Development class and everyone was responsible for bringing a new food trend or something interesting in the culinary industry to class and giving a short presentation to the group. I was amazed at the breadth of knowledge that our class had. The next Grant Achatz’s and Thomas Keller’s are sitting right beside you. You might be the next Jose Andres, but wouldn’t it be cool to pick the next Daniel Bouloud’s brain?

The amount of information and knowledge on this campus is so vast. Tap into it from whatever angle interests you the most.

My aim is to provide information that you can use. In that vein, feel free to contact me at any time if you’d like to see something in La Papillote. If you’d like to get involved with the production of it. If something in the paper moved you, angered you, made you laugh.

Let me know how I can be of service to you. Amy Z.az772942@cia.culinary.edu

“I’m a filmmaker who decided to go to culinary school. All I picked up was the fact if I didn’t understand what was going on with every single ingredient, I could be qualifying for, like, the lunch food job at my daughter’s school.” -- Alton Brown

2LA PAPILLOTE

COMPACTLa Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of Amer-ica since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrong-doing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.FOOD REVIEW POLICYAs a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

Kristin McGinnDana Rivera Chef Fred BrashDaniel JarozFrancis MailingConnor WhiteGareth AlonzoAnthony Young

Abby GilkeyMichael Earle Alexis HarringtonMarie JenkinsStephanie Kirkland Amy Zarichnak

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Amy Zarichnak

LAYOUT EDITOR Sydney Estrada

ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug

EDITORIAL POLICY La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Stephanie M. Kirkland, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net

LETTERS POLICY Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

CONTRIBUTORS

January 16, 2014

Scan To Visit Our Library on issuu.com/lapapillote.

CHECK OUT LA PAPILLOTE ON

FACEBOOK:http://tinyurl.com/fblapapillote

Sydney Estrada(Layout Editor)SE853582@cia.culinary.edu

Alexis Harrington(Copy Editor)

a.harrington@gmail.com

Slide on your comfy pajamas, slip on your f luffy moccasins, believe me you are going to need it. Without hesitation click on the television and search for a movie that will satisfy you. Doesn’t that sound great? You deserve it so f luff up your pillow and prepare for some enjoyable entertainment. Put all your energy toward the movies, but even more towards the buttery bowl mounted with piles of popcorn. During the snacking, be sure to lick every crystal of salt and ounce of butter off your fingertips, like the champions do. All is well when the opportunity for the Double R’s arise, by that I mean resting and relaxing. Two aspects of life we all need, especially in times of stress. Lay back and relax for old time’s sakes; because you can and should.

On a cold dreary day, resort to a movie for a refreshing aspect to your day. How can you go wrong with drama, comedy, or action in your life? I particularly enjoy the fictional, yet action type movies that attempt to intrigue you as well as make you feel part of the movie. If I had to choose a favorite movie, it would have to be The Adjustment Bureau, no questions asked. It is a science fiction film, including a couple destined to be together, but forces in nature drive them apart. This film left me, along with the audience, at the edge of my seat foreshadowing the future.

What’s your favorite movie? I am surprised by many people’s answers. Many times, Titanic or Forrest Gump are brought up, proving the case that classics will never die. It is worth the time and effort to watch television, so sit back, relax and watch your favorite movie. Do what makes you happy!

At The Culinary Institute of America we are all about movies. Literally just look at the Food Network! The Residence Life department at the school does a wonderful job, if I may say so myself, providing students with fun activities and programs for students on campus. Senior RA’s once put together a Harry Potter-weekend -extravaganza featuring all the movies in the series. In addition, the Senior RAs of all the residence halls offered

making your own wand and activities to go with them, along with butterbeer and potion refreshments for students. Over one hundred students showed up to this exciting packed event, many of whom won raff le prizes. Residence Life and the Residential Assistants were generous enough to organize this program.

Holidays are ideal for movies. For instance, Christmas is not the same without the extremely hilarious Elf, a youthful and entertaining film. For some time, Hudson Hall was playing many new movies that were released in theaters in Renaissance lounge, like Wolverine. In January Angell Hall celebrated the cold season with the entire series of Ice Age. As you can see, movies tend to bring a good time no matter what the occasion.

Now no movie is complete without nibbling snacks, as I like to call them. The classics include f lavored popcorn, pretzels, chips, and even gummy snacks. However go ahead and change it up with ice cream sundaes, nachos, or pizza. The cherry on the sundae is the refreshment. Go ahead have some mocktails or try

a basic Shirly Temple. Putting together a drink is as simple as combining ice, juice, and a fresh garnish. If you are watching a movie please do me a favor and treat yourself to some snacks and refreshments.When putting together a movie night be sure to include everyone. The rule of thumb is if you will watch it so will they. With friends it is safe to watch a comedy movie because we all need a good laugh. If you are on a date the movie theaters can still be the answer. After all, a simple movie can relieve stress and cheer up any type of day. The experience is rewarding when you have good food, a decent film, and people around you.So if you have learned anything thus far know that a movie is golden. And a movie is almost like a dining experience. In both situations we hope to indulge and relax. Plus both offer a sense of surprise and excitement. Trust me when I say you cannot go wrong with a good movie, food, and friends.

As a young chef, when I was training back in the 80’s, chefs under whom you work who changed their menu seasonally were being responsible customers first, then the restaurant and crew, and most importantly,they were adhering to their beliefs about the quality of ingredients.

Doing a stage in France, I came to understand and love seasonal ingredients.

Fall was the season for mushrooms and game. Winter brought hearty roots and winter squash. My favorite season, spring, meant fava beans, asparagus, and morels! Summer, of course, was tomatoes, summer squash, and corn.

While I am simplifying this a bit here, I think you understand what I am saying. France is about food. As a young cook in France I experienced the markets. Every town had their own, and you never heard the word local because everything was local.

Here, we call them farmer markets, of course. You buy things at their source.

In France, vegetables, fruit, game, meat, fish were available. One could find everything there! There were also clothes and housewares. When you went to buy produce, sometimes you would see the chefs buying for their restaurants!

After purchasing we would go to lunch at an adjacent bistro and have steak frites -- yum! And you would know that they hadn’t traveled further than to the neighboring market to get the amazing fresh items you were eating.

Winter citrus calls forth memories I have of my Dad peeling an orange in his big chair with me on his lap, smelling the aroma of the limonene, the oil found in citrus skins. My father was not aware that oranges were in season in the winter, but he did know that they tasted better.

Try a navel orange, which is a common seedless type of orange found in the market. The thick skin makes for great orange segments which can make your salads really sweet. The navel is a natural mutation that developed where another orange starts to grow. A navel orange I discovered while teaching here at school is the Cara Cara which has a salmon-colored f lesh. It’s stunning and sweet, and has just a hint of acidity. The name Cara Cara

comes from Caracas,Venezuela, where this hybrid was developed.Common juicing oranges are the Valencia and Hamlin. They have seeds

and a rustic skin. One common preparation is to juice them to make an orange sauce for a scallop plate.

By far, my favorite is the Mandarin family which is citrus that peels away from the skin easily. Also, those little clementines that we see around the Holidays are delicious! I usually can eat around twelve or so at one sitting.

The tangerine is a shiny, bright orange that is nice and sweet, also.Now the funny looking citrus with the bump on top goes by Tangelo or

Mineola.It is a cross between a tangerine and a grapefruit.

Sweet goodness! I always buy grapefruits in the winter when they are cheaper, and my favorite is the pink grapefruit from Indian River, Florida. They are sooooooooooooooooooo juicy and I once had it baked with a sugar crust.

Lemons are amazing! If you have ever preserved them with salt,the make great accompaniment to fish. Grill a piece of red snapper, top with the preserved lemons, and serve with some couscous as a side dish. You will think that you are living in the Mediterranean!

Of course, we would never think of making salsa or guacamole without limes!

Blood oranges are also now in season and their stunning color lends itself to beautiful plate presentation. I once worked in a kitchen where we prepared a beuure

blanc sauce and at the end we stirred in segments of blood orange so that the color turned a purple red. Absolutely gorgeous.

Chef Brash’s Selection Criteria for Citrus:1) Pick fruit with smooth skin and no wrinkles.2) Avoid fruits with a pongy texture, which could be a result of low

moisture. 3) Look for evenly-shaped fruits4) Heavy for its size means lots of moisture5) Good quality citrus should have a pleasant odor that smells like the

fruit itself.

Fun With Films

3January 16, 2014

What’s in season? Citrus!

BY: Daniel Jaroz, BPS Culinary

BY: Chef Freddy B, Chef Instructor

Photo Credit: www.maclife.com

Photo Credit: imgsrv.gardening.ktsa.com

4LA PAPILLOTE

Continued from Page 1Sometimes it’s strongly Italian, sometimes it’s strongly Asian, but more

and more I think there is a strong definition of how to make the best of one cuisine, rather than mix them all together, and I think what we see in America is the best representation of Asian cuisine, of European, of French cuisine, of Spanish cuisine, of Italian cuisine, of South American cuisine as well, and this new generation of chefs today are sort of like understanding they have a strong position to stay who they are.”

I was very curious about what it takes to build an empire such as his. When you think about the amount of money it takes to open a restaurant, I wanted to know where the big dogs in our industry found that kind of funding. I wanted to know the logistics of opening a restaurant, of building an empire. So, I asked him. Chef Boulud gave the greatest answer, one that I think we can all take something from. He said, “I think you need a little bit of luck, but luck is not going to come at you unless you’re prepared to look for it! I think my few strikes of luck I had was to have the opportunity to come to America, for example, after having a good background, I didn’t know where I was going to land and what to do with it. Coming to America, then coming to New York, then proving to New York that I could be worthwhile staying there. Every where you go, they need you as much as a hole in the head, so it’s important to be able to prove to your community that you are really trying to be the best at it to represent yourself in the best way possible. To me, to stay in New York was to prove that I could really cook and make a difference in the restaurant where I was and to be accepted by the media and accepted by the community and accepted by the industry, as well. So, after that, it was about the money, because I don’t have money, I didn’t have money, and I didn’t have any money to start, and I had to first cement my reputation where I was, and then gain trust with someone who will trust me enough to give me money to start my first business. So, that was one of the big strikes (of luck). When I was trying to raise a small amount of money, I found someone, Joel Smilow, my partner

of twenty-two years, where he says, I’d rather be the only one, than one of your investors, because I really want to do wonderful things with you. And he didn’t know me, I never cooked for him before, but he knew me from his niece and nephew, and he trusted them, and he said well it’s a good idea and we are still very close together. I was lucky and luck is important, but it is important to find the right people to be partners with. People who are committed to succeed but in a very honest and professional way. He was the CEO of a big company in America and he was retiring, so that helped me also, his business side, it helped me succeed. But after that it was a lot up to me. To surround myself with talented people in all the fields I was not expert enough in, such as the wine service, the front of the house, the accounting, the management. You’re going to have to be everything, yet, you’re going to want to be yourself. But you’re going to have know about everything, how to hire, how to buy, how to repair, how to bake, how to fish, how to choose quality ingredients, how to do butchering, because you know if you don’t know how to do butchering then you spend money on expensive protein – it’s a waste, you know? And so I guess a strong foundation, a strike of luck, a lot of ambition, and a lot of determination.”

Chef Boulud was incredibly down-to-earth, and utterly kind to everyone around him. He currently has an assistant named AJ Schaller, and she is a graduate from the CIA. Her official title is Culinary Manager. Chef Boulud is a great supporter of all things CIA. He ended by saying that the Culinary Institute is the best school in the world.

If his humility and kindness don’t endear him to you, his support of the CIA certainly should!

For most of us coming to the CIA demanded some sacrifice, so it is safe to say we have a plan we are following and want to follow exactly. We start at a certain time; we go on extern at a certain time. we come back, finish the next few semesters, and graduate. Once we graduate we start our glorious career choice.

According to my plan I am not supposed to be here. The day this article is due I should have started my externship. I looked forward to starting at King Arthur Flour. For a few days my back was hurting, nothing too bad. On a particularly stressful day, I twisted to grab something and pulled my lumbar just enough to cause problems. I tried bending to get something out of the oven and could not even go that small distance. It was the straw that broke the camel’s back.

I tried to go to class over the next few days, but the pain was excruciating. Even with a trip to Emergency One and muscle relaxants, class was a no go for me. Not only did I miss class, but my second term practical, as well. The school has a fairly strict attendance policy, after three absences the class is an automatic fail. My teacher was willing to help me, but because I missed three days there was nothing she could do for me. It may seem the attendance policy is too strict, but I disagree. Having been through a culinary program before, I understand the necessity of being in class. Especially if classes are only 14 days long, and hands on. It becomes difficult to catch up on the hands on portion. I am sure that at least some of us have missed one class, only to come back and realize one class you missed is the one class you really needed.

Missing class for any reason can be frustrating in its own right. There are many reasons for someone to miss class, and miss enough classes to have to retake, such as Medical, depression, failure of a class, PTSD, stress, family emergency, or personal reasons.

No one wants to have to stay behind or come back early from extern to retake a class. Life just happens, and we have to learn to roll with the punches. Every day we face problems in the kitchen or bakeshop, and every day we are expected to come up with solutions to these problems. The same is true with how we deal with the setbacks in our education. I have dealt with a number of setbacks in my life, some seemed so overwhelming I could not see what the end would be. Being young, and being away from home for the first time, a setback, such as having to retake a class, or having to move groups can seem like a lot to deal with, but in reality it happens more than you think. It is OK to feel overwhelmed; a person has their own capacity of handling stress. Some can handle more, some less.

There are a few things to make a setback seem less hard to deal with, and

I will list a few for you. First, communicate with your teacher. They see you every day and do notice when you do not show up. They will help you in making up missed points and where to go, when you need to go, and when you need help.

Second, if it is a medical reason, go to health services. They will send an email to your teacher explaining why you missed class. If it is a serious medical issue you still have to go through health services, they will need a copy of the medical papers.

Third, if it is emotional, go to CAPS. They are there for you, to listen, to help, and even just to meditate. You can go for just a quick, I need someone to talk to, session, or more long term help. I do not want to admit too much, but I will say I have had more success with the therapist at CAPS than the therapist I had in the past.

Fourth, not everyone learns the same way. Some have it more difficult than others while others have it super easy. Learning Strategies helps students with learning difficulties, and set up a system to help you make it through classes.

Fifth, go to Student Affairs. If you end up having to retake a class you will need to go to them. With their help, you can figure out what is best, when the next available class is and so forth, and then set up within that class.

This school is pretty intense and emotions run high, stress is commonplace and accidents happen but, for the most part, it does not mean the end of the world. The school offers many services for us to succeed. As I said earlier it is OK to feel overwhelmed, it is also OK to ask for help because even with setbacks the only way you can go is forward.

setBaCksBY: Anna Ungricht, AOS Baking and Pastry

At the Culinary Institute of America, we are divided into groups, where each group and its culture is different from the next. Some groups are passive and provide collaborative opportunities, others are comprised of gunners that constantly collide and clash, some are female-dominant, while others are male-dominant. It’s something that makes our school special, that unique dynamic gained by cramming a bunch of diverse students into one kitchen and forcing them to work with one another. I’m sure most of you understand what I mean when I say that every group dynamic is different and that you can identify the behavioral attributes that your own group embodies.

I belonged to a class where most of us were over the age of 21, and almost all came from established careers. Naturally, it was very competitive, with everyone involved in each other’s grades and interested in the other’s culinary careers. You could not miss a day of class without someone commenting or berating you for it. A simple comment would be the subject of an argument or discussion and there was little to no room for collaboration. This sounds like a nightmare, but it was also our greatest strength--I think our government calls this “checks and balances.” No one fell behind because we were afraid to drown underneath everyone else’s passion, and due to each students’ strengths, we became successful as a group.

So when it came time to choose an externship, obviously this became a huge topic of conversation. Places like French Laundry, Gotham Restaurant, Blue Hill, Momofuku, Nobu, farm to table, modern, Michelin starred, Zagat rated, etc. became language du jour for the entire span of our K16 class. Where you went became a direct correlation for success and credibility. As a member of the kitchen, I was strong, I was competitive. So it was a matter of gossip when I chose my restaurant.

I’m involved in a long-distance relationship. My significant other currently attends the Business School at the University of Michigan, Ann Arbor. I visit often, sometimes twice a month! During one of the visits I came across a restaurant called Vellum. It stuck out to me because of the dining style, intricacies of service (they rolled their own cigarettes and served Long Island oysters with shallot foam and basil oil as an amuse bouche), and the extraordinary food that touched on modern techniques but with classic tastes. After many stages, I realized that this restaurant offered many growth opportunities. First, their kitchen was new and very well stocked. There was a vast amount of dried spices, fresh and unique local produce, and finely marbled meats. The kitchen team was young and eager. Most importantly, this place provided an outlet for me to practice my leadership abilities where I wasn’t just an intern, but I was a responsible member of the team.

I started my internship in August and found Ann Arbor to be beautiful! I first started on garde manger, where the plates involved very intricate prep. Things like Ultratex-8 and xantham gum were used as a permanent stabilizer for temporary emulsions, siphons upon siphons were utilized, and fresh varietal greens came from Twerp farms fresh everyday (sometimes frogs would jump out and surprise you while washing!). Numerous amounts of pickling rinds, fruits, dehydrated herbs, and vegetables were used, there was an almost-constant shucking of oysters going on, and don’t even get me started on the desserts! Mousses, foams, quenelles, whisps, and tuiles, oh my! This station was known for the colorful plating opportunities and the high volume. On slow days, one person would work this station, where the combination of cold starters and desserts comprised of a total of 14 menu items.

I never understood the stigma of being on garde manger. No doubt it is much cooler than the hot line, but the difficulty level is certainly underestimated. Dirty hands were your biggest enemy when going from plating an intricate 10 ingredient salad to plating a Madaleine and tea Dessert. And the demands of each dish were certainly challenging when you have to shuck 40 oysters for happy hour!

Because of this, I was eager to move on to the next station. It wasn’t that I felt the hot line was better, I just knew there was more opportunity for me. The hot line was split into two major sections, and within those section were two smaller categories. There was grill, of course, and sauté. Grill was divided into the “double stack” area, where two power burners were wedged between the f lat top, and a grill where the “grill station” resided. Saute was divided by the saute station and the fry/pasta station.

To my luck, there were two people on grill. One day one of the cooks quit unexpectedly and I worked my way in. I started picking up more prep in order to fit in some of grill’s responsibilities and to understand the produce/ingredients that were used on the station. During service, I would watch eagerly and ask questions in order to catch up on comprehension...I might’ve been a little annoying, but you don’t get anywhere in the kitchen if you don’t speak up!

One month into my extern, I was put on grill! There, I learned how to work with really hot pans (I have the burns to prove it) , multitask, organize my thoughts, accurately cook proteins, how to understand emulsions, make sauces properly, and most importantly, understand the need to meet deadlines. I really disliked a mushroom tart dish because I had to bake and produce pie tarts to go on top of the sauteed mushrooms. I hated rolling out the tarts because it was so unwieldy in respect to the rest of the prep I had to do. One day I cooked them too dark, and we had to 86 one of the

best sellers on the menu. That was that day I finally comprehended the importance of making deadlines and producing prep correctly, I knew that my errors had cost the restaurant a great deal of money, and the fact that I was solely responsible for this was something that I will remember throughout my whole career.

Months passed, and I realized I was going to be hit with another curve ball. My station partner decided to put in his two weeks notice. I then became the sole person in the restaurant who knew the station from top to bottom. Then, I had to train a new staff member. I never realized how important it was to train someone until I understood one thing: this person has no idea of the culture of the restaurant. To mold the cook to how you want them to work was a power that I had never experienced. I wanted so badly to show the new employee the ins and outs of the restaurant and to incorporate his skills to strengthen our restaurant.

His name was Tim. He was also a CIA grad, one of two in the restaurant, the other being the head chef. To my surprise, he also learned under the legend, Chef Xavier Le Roux. He took Skills five years ago and from his stories of Le Roux, it seems like nothing has changed. Le Roux still uses the same phrases and has taught the same technique that we all have come to love and respect. Tim and I worked like we’ve been working together for years. That made me realize another thing, the CIA Alumni base is strong and bonds tightly together.

We are such a small school, but the things we learn set us apart from all the other culinary schools. Our instructors are valuable and have a long and impressive track records. Some have written books, some have books written about them, we even have chefs that have done things like brought creme brulee to America, and chefs who have Mario Batali and Daniel Boulud’s phone numbers programmed into their phones. It came very apparent to me that although Tim’s working style was more advanced than mine, our approach was eerily the same.

Life as a line cook was difficult. I was tired, I was short-tempered, and I was emotional. There were times where I had awakened from sleep to muscle spasms in my hand from soreness due to the weight of the pans. The twelve hour days for at least five, and sometimes six, days a week were exhausting and the communication in the kitchen was getting hazardous--but I loved every minute of it!

During the end of my time there I questioned whether I wanted to go back to the CIA or not. I felt that I showed that I was able to cook on the line. I think this is the toughest part for an extern, walking away from something you worked so hard to prove yourself in for the past five months. While I definitely miss it, I am currently in baking and pastry class, and in my first week here, I have learned so much already! At extern I was in charge of baking focaccia, and I didn’t know to use a pre-ferment in my dough or to steam my lean dough for a more developed crust. This I learned thanks to Chef Spiess. So, I could have stayed at my externship location, and discovered this perhaps a year or two too late, but the value of the education here cannot be overlooked.

My advice to all the upcoming externs? Don’t limit yourself as an extern. Push the boundaries of your responsibilities. Get your prep done early so you can take on new challenges, go to work one maybe two hours early and relish in an open and empty kitchen. Use that kitchen to your advantage on your off days and explore other forms of technique. Push, shove, wedge your way into your desired position and always practice humility (CIA students have a bad reputation from what I understand -- apparently we are too egotistical?). Also, when it comes time for us to come back, COME BACK! Try your best not to stay because the last year really is worth it. All your classmates have moved on from the basic kitchen skills and you can learn from them, too. The atmosphere in the classroom is one step closer to being professional and the skills that you learn your fourth term are more comprehensive.

Lastly, don’t let name and reputation get the best of you. I certainly felt that my internship was beyond valuable because I made it so. Create your own path and don’t let others judge you. It’s understandable to feel the pressure of CIA’s elite graduates, but the culinary world is vast, and you can find your own place in it. Tailor your externship for what you would like to learn and take into account the diversity of opportunities out there. Good luck to everyone planning for externship! It certainly is an important time and should not be underestimated.

ON CAMPUS5

January 16, 2014

the extern FilesBY: Diane Lam, AOS Culinary

LA PAPILLOTECENTER SPREAD6

Center Spread

Continued on page 11...

a taste oF homeAfter checking off the last thing on my timeline that I made for my last day on campus, I was ready to go home for break. I’ve always been a list person but since being a CIA student my few word lists have turned into entire three column timelines. I use them for everyday tasks; my roommate makes fun of me. It’s the little moments like this that make me realize how much my mindset has changed since my first day at school.

I am just now taking my Seafood ID & Fabrication class, meaning that I have only been at school here for less than five months. When I am at CIA, I am lucky to be considered simply a cook, which is expected, I know my place. However, it seems that every time I return home from school, all of my friends and family believe that I am some sort of chef extraordinaire. I can, and have, cooked my friends something as simple as a grilled cheese sandwich and they would say that it’s the best thing they have ever eaten. Are my family and friends simply blinded by their lack of culinary knowledge, are they just biased based on their feelings for me as a person? Going home for another holiday, I was determined to finally get the answer.

For weeks my step mom has been nagging me about Christmas dinner. It’s the type of nagging that only a mother is capable of, both sweet and endearing yet seemingly endless. I’ve been hearing everything from “Who is bringing what?”, “Are you sure you want to make beets? Nobody likes beets.”, and my personal favorite “Now your brother doesn’t eat meat, is a salad enough for him?” Whatever the worry, I am the family authority for all things food. After long consideration with my step mom we were committing to a menu; there was shopping to be done.

Being from Upstate New York I am fortunate enough to have a Wegmans Food Market. For those of you who don’t know the store let me start by telling you how much you are missing out. Imagine a Whole Foods Market on steroids. It is far bigger, far cheaper, and with a store brand that is almost always better quality than the name brand, Wegmans can’t get any better. I spent the majority of my time there until moving to school. In short, Wegmans is my food paradise. Unfortunately, it is just about everyone else’s food paradise too. Grocery shopping during the holidays is never fun. Doing so when everyone is going to the same place for the same menu is even worse.

My stepmom graciously enough went and did the bulk of the shopping. I had intended to join her in fighting off the other wild home cooks, but like the p.m. student that I am, I slept in. Oops, sorry! Of course like every holiday, we would need to take multiple trips to the grocery store, only to find that we still did not buy everything needed. It’s just the nature of the game. When I asked my step mom to buy the beets with the greens on, that’s when I was officially handed the duty of grocery shopping round two.

With the intention of just buying a few beets and a few last ingredients, I was surprised when I was handed “The List”. Grocery lists to moms are like play books to professional athletes. It’s their plan of attack if you will. When it came to be my turn to attack at the grocery store, I went with a “take no prisoners” attitude. For those of you who have seen the movie Christmas with the Kranks imagine the scene in the grocery store where Jamie Lee Curtis fights the other shopper for the last ham. It was this battle mentality that got me through the crowds of Wegmans on that day.

Christmas Eve was spent doing prep for the following day’s meal. As I was being invited to countless holiday celebrations, I instead worked in the kitchen. Being a culinary student means that I am automatically signed up to do the cooking. It has become expected that I’d be doing a portion of the cooking for holiday meals. So while my friends and family were practically sipping hot chocolate by a fire, I was in the kitchen setting up mise en place.

That next day was Christmas morning. I woke up and the first thing I did was start to cook strata for my family. Normally a person’s first thought would be to see your family or what is under the tree. Lets just face it though, us kitchen people are far from normal. Once I was finished with that I was able to enjoy my day for a while. However, once mealtime came again it was back to the kitchen for me. I was at my place.

Cooking for people at home is always tough for me. I could make them almost anything and they would be happy with it. I think the problem is that I always want to show off my new skills to the people who I’ve cooked for my whole life. I want them to notice a difference in my cooking. I have always been my own biggest critic. When I’m told that my beets are the best they’ve ever had, I can’t help but to wonder what my Culinary Fundamentals instructor, Chef Swartz, would think.

For the longest time I was so annoyed by this assumption that I would be doing so much of the work while others were out enjoying themselves. There was even one Thanksgiving that I didn’t know that I would be cooking

until that morning. By now I’ve come to the realization that us cooks, chefs, foodies, or whatever else we may be called will always be the ones in the kitchens during the holidays. Even though we may be missing a family affair, we have an affair of our own with our food. To me, my place is in the kitchen.

At the end of the day I know that food means more to me than almost anything. Food is my life, my spirituality even. As I’m cooking these dishes

for holidays, I can’t help but remember the countless laughs I’ve shared in the

kitchen with some of my biggest culinary inf luences, my grandma and my mom. My best way to honor them is through cooking the food that I grew up learning from them both. It’s the food that I know and love.

Upon my return back to school, I remembered that initial question that I had: ”Are my family and friends simply blinded by their lack of culinary knowledge, or are they just biased based on their feelings for me as a person?” I think that the answer to this question is yes. Both are true. However, even if they don’t know the minute details of the trade, they do understand the feeling of a proper holiday feast. They share the memories that each bite brings. They know, just as well as I, what home tastes like. I’m lucky enough to be able to give them a plate of just that… home.

BY: Connor White, AOS Culinary

Photo Credit: www.fitday.com

Size: 6.25" X 4"

the judgement free zone

the judgement free zone

the judgement free zone

the judgement free zone

the judgement free zone

SPECIAL OFFER For All Students And Staff

NO Start-Up FeeNO Commitment

$10MOJoin Now For Just

Offer expires Friday, March 28th, 2014*Home club only. Billed monthly to a checking account. Annual membership fee of $29 will be billed on June 1st, 2014. Must be 16 or older, 13 with a parent/guardian.Participating locations only. Planet Fitness facilities are independently owned and operated.

CIA student/faculty ID required

2 7 PFHV Culinary Journal Ad 4C_Layout 1 1/8/14 5:07 PM Page 1

7January 16, 2014

Center Spread2013: the a-Z FooD Year that WasA

Airline food: There was no more pie in the sky. High in the clouds didn’t translate into haute (cuisine).

Amuse bouche’s were crafted to be picked up with our eyelashes. Mini morsels of oxtail perched on a sliver of sardine, topped with two petunia petals were presented as an itty bitty “gift” from the chef. A tasting menu in deed!

All socially responsible consumers and food companies hailed appetite for Fair Trade.B

Bacon became the next sizzling fad. Bacon lipstick, bacon (de)oderant, bacon dental f loss, bacon ice cream and other bizarre foolishnesses streaked along the highway of absurdity.

Bees buzzed off. Many feared there would be no more almond joy.

Broccoli was not adored properly.C

Clinton, Bill and Gore both declared themselves vegan converts. Former Hi-Steakers meet rarely.

Chicken got cheap and cheep-a.Crumbs! Cupcakes lost their cutting edge.

D Drive through cronuts (croissant/donuts)

failed to deliver.Drone and robot technologies were forecast to

bring food faster and fresher.E

Entree plates had so many parts, it’s as tho: Jeffrsn, Einst, Picas, Moz & Seus R all present but communicating only in incoherent txt msgs.

‘Eating In’ consisted mostly of ‘Take Out’ purchases.F

Farm-to-table restaurants prospered for the prosperous.

Fine dining went hi-tech. Devotees of Food as ART, Technology and Science were affectionately regarded as — FARTS.

Food stamps shrank to $4 dollars a day; a sum close to the $2.37 daily diet allowance of prison inmates (who live rent-free in gated communities).

Four Seasons evolved into 52.Free was the word hovering on every lip.

GGuy Fieri’s restaurant review, written by NYT’s

Pete Wells, went viral.Gone were restaurant reservations, dress codes

and white tablecloths.Going were high-priced professional restaurant

reviewers and waiters. Servers were replaced with tablets at Applebee’s.

Goats being the source of MOhaiR and CASHmere, our softest, costliest wools as MO—R CASH was the inspiration for the now compulsory cheese course appearing on every menu. H

Health issues were all the rage. Death panel warnings tolled. We forgot only plastic bags lived forever. Even so, plastic bags were outlawed in Hawaii and several other states.I

Ice cream sommeliers soared into the stratosphere.J

James Beard was resurrected — yet again.K

Kale, incomprehensibly, gained favor among the food faddists.L

Labeling for genetically modified food continued to spark controversy.

Locavores’ strength grew organically.Lunch hours shrank to 20 minutes.

MMarijuana was legalized as a result of a grass

roots movement. Some declared it was high time. Pot luck suppers weren’t once they were.

Martha Stewart disclosed ominous omens on her media horizon.

Meat was “grown” in a petri dish.Minimum wage earners got few tips from

Omni Living Legislators.N

No! was the name of every new food introduction.M

Many diners treated themselves to dinner as

though they were nutrient-deprived outpatients.O

Oz Doctor was asked — and answered.Obesity sufferers’ objective is to look like well-

dressed thermometers.P

Paleo dieters temporarily rescued Neanderthals from near total extinction.

Plates made from plants were recycled into benevolent compost. Sustainable growers strived to save the planet.

Pop up restaurants exploded.Po’ Boys got poorer.

QQueuers at Starbucks requested tea.

RRestaurants with 24 or fewer seats became

places to be private, in public.S

Some folk thought the greatest compliment to the cook is to declare, “Boy! I’m stuffed.”

Sous vide opened wide.Square meals mostly came from (microwaved)

square boxes.T

Trucks (with food served) kept on truckin.’Turkey breasts grew so big the big birds

couldn’t get close enough to mate: animal husbandry wasn’t what once it was.

Twinkies twinkled again.U

Unclear was the future of super-size sodas as Mayor Bloomberg’s hopes for fewer big bubbles fizzled.V

Viral also went Paula’s Dean’s comments.W

Whole Foods became holier.X

X-box beat out lock and bento boxes.Y

Yelpers yelped.Yogurt sales soared.

Z ZEASONings EATings to all and to all a white

knight!

I try to refer to the “farm to table movement” as using the freshest ingredients possible. “Movement” makes it seem so f luid, like a f leeting trend that will eventually dissipate from the layers of new approaches to cuisine. With its roots buried in the very beginning of assembling nourishment, I hope to see it reach the baking and pastry side of things. Not many patisseries list the farmer or local purveyor that they have been sourcing from.

As a baker, I thought it meant being inf luenced by seasonal produce. My “approach” was conforming to customer’s expectations, attempting to be classified as “socially responsible” with very little effort. Sourcing fruits and vegetable for pastry applications is very important, but I was overlooking the main building blocks of most breads and pastries. Flour, in my opinion is becoming completely overlooked. Recently I staged at a bakery that milled their own f lour from a local spelt farm. It sounds a bit pretentious. I couldn’t be more wrong. Most commercial f lour separates the three parts of the wheat berry-endosperm, germ, and bran. Whole Wheat f lour combines the endosperm and bran. In both processes the essential germ oil is lost. Germ oil not only contributes to nutrition, but also f lavor. Breads take on independent f lavor profiles, distinguishable from one strand of wheat berry to another.

My first intention for this article was to illustrate the responsibility that we have to support local farmers, reject preservatives, additives, and

partially made products. I’ve heard that whole speech so many times that it became boring writing about it. Instead I’d like to focus on the quality that comes from products made from freshly milled f lour. I first realized the importance of germ oil after watching a video from Farm and Sparrow’s head baker. I can’t begin to capture the passion that he has for f lour. It is

contagious. I am affected and can’t stop. My friends have fallen victim to my sad ramblings about how important it is. Similar to the animal shelter commercials, you can’t help feeling guilty for not attempting to mill your own f lour.

Purchasing f lour puts control in the hands of a far-off company. Utilizing a mill allows us to dictate the grind size, aging process, and additives. Instead of using a combination of pastry, cake, bread, and whole wheat, one amazing wheat berry (or any grain for that matter) covers the whole spectrum of possibilities. Instead of letting companies add chemicals to speed up the process of aging, it becomes unnecessary as

we learn the process. All of this sounds well and good, but it is under the assumption that a

farmer is within a reasonable distance. Just eight miles from Hyde Park is Wild Hive Farm, an organic farm that harvests red spring wheat berries, corn, soft white winter wheat berries, spelt, rye, and oats. They offer each crop in whole form, and stone-ground f lours, which preserves the germ oil. I know not everyone is passionate about this, but quality, responsible, local ingredients can actually be accessible for bakers.

the Baking perspeCtiVeBY: Emily Dittmar, AOS Baking and Pastry

Photo Credit: i.telegraph.co.uk

BY: Irena Chalmers, CIA FacultyAuthor of Food Jobs and Food Jobs 2

8LA PAPILLOTE

Dorm room reCipesI can’t say that I’ve started keeping track of the amount of money that I can, without a doubt, spend on food within some period of time. When the facts are staring at you in the face it just makes it that much harder to go back to your old ways, which is probably the reason I haven’t done it yet. For me, eating out is more of a social thing. I’m talking about those frequent trips to the diner, and dive-y places I find myself going back to again and again. My nickname, among other things, is “The Leftover Queen.” It doesn’t bother me in the slightest. I am certainly not going to apologize for being resourceful, smart, and most times, weary about buying something that I can make myself, and often make better. Because I feel this way, I’ve had to become more creative with what I have in my dorm room. There are my go-to favorites: noodles and homemade sauces, big salads with untraditional toppings, and anything with an egg on top is sheer perfection and more than I could ask for. I gravitate toward comfort, hearty but healthy, well-seasoned, and fully f lavored dishes, often vegetable and grain based. Sure, ramen and microwaveable mac and cheese is always great to have on hand for the occasional late night, etc. Especially when it’s on sale for a buck at Stop&Shop. But wouldn’t your first choice be homemade soup made with careful attention to familiar ingredients that also reminds you of home?

Here’s a little something to get you started. What’s in your dorm fridge? Is it all leftover Chinese food? Even with that, here is so much possibility! A fried rice of sorts is obvious. But you could also make a kitchen sink sort of soup with the day old rice, that would soak up any kind of rich broth and again become tender, soft, and so very delicious.

Whether you find yourself in a dorm, apartment, or home, you need to have essentials on hand so you can make an assortment of staples on a whim. For me, it includes any kind of stock/broth that I can get my hands on, the occasional onion that will last an easy month or so in the cool

darkness under my bed. In my personal food storage pantry, spices other than just salt and pepper are must-haves no matter your situation. A little dried oregano or granulated garlic can add a ton of f lavor. Hoards of dry beans, legumes, pastas, and grains are as versatile as they come no matter what other ingredients you add. Olive oil, a can of roasted, diced, tomatoes, Amish jam, mustard, sugar, f lour, various root vegetables, tin foil, scraps of parchment paper, a singular sauté pan, sauce pot, and a dollar store cookie

sheet come in handy in creating delicious meals in your dorm.

This also depends on the kind of student you are though. In BPS I find myself having more f lexible days than I had in AOS. Still, any moment I could spare I would make it a priority to make cream of broccoli soup with the broccoli stems that were going to be strewn into the blue bin anyhow. You have the ability to create something fantastic no matter the amount of ingredients on hand. You just need to fit it in to your schedule if it’s something that means as much to you as it does to me.

Ironically, I am writing this as the newest winter storm approaches, right after holiday break, and school has already been canceled for tomorrow. I had cleaned out my tiny refrigerator of anything that could quite resemble a meal at this moment, which is forcing me to think about

the tomato sauce, rosemary, and dry beans that I have stashed away in my “essentials” bin. Should I hold off on eating my baby carrots and celery sticks I packed as a snack, to use for mirepoix? People, this is my thought process. I wish I had croutons or a thick slice of crusty/pretty much stale piece of bread, but I think this is a pretty good start to something more than satisfying.

BY: Stephanie Kirkland, BPS Baking and Pastry

Necessary Rosemary Beans and Reduced TomatoesBeans, any shape or size, soaked overnight (if possible)1 Rosemary sprig, chopped1 can diced tomatoes1 can roasted, pureed tomatoes1 small onion, medium diceButter or olive oil, as needed Salt and pepper, as needed 1. Cook beans per cooking instructions. (depending on size, cook time will vary) 2. After they have cooked half way through, begin to melt butter or heat some olive oil in a medium sized sauté pan over medium heat. 3. Add medium diced onion to soften. 4. When the onions begin to caramelize, add both cans of tomatoes along with the chopped Rosemary. 5. Continue to stir and reduce this mixture until the beans are fully cooked.Serve over grits, mashed potatoes, rice, cous cous etc. This would also benefit from an addition of crunchy croutons on top!

the ButCher, the Baker, anD the CanDlestiCk-maker

I don’t have much of a sweet tooth. In fact, I rarely ever get to a dessert course when dining out, routinely waving off the server before they even try to sell me. Even here at the Culinary, temptation of swiping B&B plates off of the dessert station at Farq Hall is the least of my worries. However, I’ve watched enough Food Network competitions like the “Sugar Art Show” and “Extreme Wedding Cakes” to truly appreciate how complex the baking and pastry spectrum of the professional food service industry is. I remember speaking to my old roommate last year about pursuing the Baking and Pastry Program after graduation here at the CIA. “Why not?” I said. “I’d have the cooking skills and I’ll be able to make great cupcakes.” I guess I deviated from that budding plan after Culinary Fundamentals when I started Meat Fabrication. By then, I swore that future would hold the butchering of primals in Spain or Argentina. This type of obsession with all disciplines of food continued post-externship when I entered Bakeshop 8 with Chef Spiess.

Baking and pastry for culinarians is a whole different animal all on its own. Particularly, the multi-tasking, prioritizing, and the sense of urgency are something I wasn’t expecting. Unlike the often controlled chaos that is normal for a culinarian, baking and pastry encourages a much more meticulously calculated plan of action. Exact, I mean exact weighted measurements are imperative! One teensy weensy extra ounce of salt can kill the yeast in your bread dough. Missing one sheet of gelatin can mess up your Bavarian Mousse. Oh, and the pate a choux, the pate a choux! If you’re not mise’d out completely and time your movements wrong, you probably compromised the entire quality of the pate a choux already. There are plenty of errors to be made in the bakeshops. But the way I thought of it, one can easily fix a broken Hollandaise (well not easily, but you can still fix

it!) , re-season a sauce, or adjust the consistency. Lowering down your heat when sautéing to make sure you’re not burning the skin on your chicken with fines herbes is not a hassle. It is the exact science and precision in baking that has astounded me and charmed me.

And you know what stinks? The three weeks in Bakeshop 8 went by so quickly. I am going to miss the opportunity to mess up my custards. I barely got the braiding technique of the challah bread.

When Baking and Pastry students enter their Café Savory class prior to their externship, they are able to step into our side of the industry. I’m sure a few of them were thrilled by the experience of cooking non-sweets again (or cut paysanne and brunoise for a consommé.) A desire for learning does not dissipate with every impending block.

It may also be true for other students farther along in their respective programs. There has to be at least one person out there saying, “I wish I could fry off tempura vegetables in Chef Chang’s Asia’s class again.”

What would be amazing to see is if some way, the school mandates a more integrated program where culinary students and bakers cross paths a handful of times, to really implement the knowledge and reinforce the lessons. If not this, maybe organize an annual friendly competition that pits all students in all out sweet versus savory battle royale (cooks making elaborate desserts and bakers rolling out grand buffets).

I can really only speak on my behalf, of course. I just wish I could go back and experience it all over again.

Unless, of course, as per the title of this article, I proceed into candlestick-making and love it.

BY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary

When one thinks of Minnesota I can pretty much guarantee that food is not one of the first things that comes to mind. Being a native, I have no problem extolling the many wonderful things that “The Land of 10,000 Lakes” provides for the stout-hearted and very warm blooded native or brave visitor. From the lush green landscape to the aforementioned lakes (of which there are actually more than 11,000), Minnesota is not short on things to do to keep busy. However, who really knows about the food scene of the great white north?

Minneapolis was more of a meat and potatoes type of town, not more than ten or so years ago. Even though the twin cities were home to restaurants from the likes of Chefs such as Jean-Georges and Wolfgang Puck, they were catering to an upper crust that constituted a small percentage of a blue collar state. The exciting thing that has begun to happen in the city, is that more and more resident chefs are having a go at the restaurant business and are becoming not only very successful locally, but also making a name for themselves nationally. Restaurants such as Piccolo, Tilia, and The Bachelor Farmer have made their way into national, widely read, publications such as The Wall Street Journal.

Being a state that is filled with farmland, Minnesota has embraced and cultivated the farm-to-table concept that is proving more than just a trend. Winter necessitates some concessions to be had, but the restaurants still try to feature as much local product as possible. Over this winter break I had the privilege of eating at The Bachelor Farmer. The restaurant is located in the trendy warehouse district of Minneapolis. They offer a menu that changes with the season, offering meat products from area farms such as Wild Acre Hunting Club and Game Farm located just a short drive north of the city. In the warmer months the area restaurants are

able to more easily access produce from area farms but regardless they feature seasonal root vegetables such as beets and rutabagas during the colder winter months. On Sundays they offer a brunch and in the evening a Sunday supper where the

only offering is a three course meal for a reasonable price ($29-$34). The rest of the week a full menu is available. On the particular Sunday evening that my friends and I attended, the dinner was comprised of an option of a mix green salad or local roasted bone marrow with accompaniments. The second course was an option of herb roasted chicken on a bed of faro or a filet of hake f lown in that day from Cape Cod with carrots, leeks and fingerling potatoes. The dessert was vanilla pound cake with an apricot-date compote topped off with some crème fraiche and pistachios. A distinct element with our meal was the time and care that went into not only the planning but also the execution. By limiting the menu on Sundays the staff is able to really focus and perfect offerings for the night. I spoke with the chef afterwards about the menu planning and he said he likes to have things sort of figured out a few weeks in advance. This way he and his team can really take the time to hammer out the details that would allow each course to complement each other. I had been wanting to experience The Bachelor Farmer since its inception and was glad to finally get the opportunity.

The restaurants are not the only food encounter you should experience if lucky enough to visit Minnesota. I would strongly invite everyone to pay a visit to the “Great Minnesota Get-Together” known as the Minnesota State Fair. The fair is held annually at the end of August for twelve days and ends on labor day. It is one of the most visited state fairs in the country and

boasts many attractions and concerts, but the reason most visitors attend is the food. In the past I have enjoyed offerings such as camel on a stick, corn ice cream with bacon crumble, and also pretty much anything you could imagine deep fried and put on a stick.

The 32nd state of the union should not only be thought of as the state that blessed the world with the likes of Prince, Bob Dylan and A Prairie Home Companion. Nor should Minnesota be thought of as a cold wasteland in the middle of nowhere, but more appropriately Minnesota is quickly becoming a foodie oasis that is conveniently located between the two coasts.

FOOD & BEVERAGE 9January 16. 2014

minnesota CuisineBY: Gareth Alonso, AOS Culinary

!

And... Make sure to remove this coupon for

$1.00 off ANY taco!

Bar & Grill

The UPS Store

Low Shipping RatesGet Your Shipments There, On Time, & Intact

Moving/Packing Supplies & BoxesDomestic &International ShippingLocal Pick-up Service Available

Full Copy Services

2600 South Road (Route9)

Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)

Dining room of The Bachelor Farmer

Photo Credit: Gareth Alonso

April Bloomfield has spent most of her life in the kitchen and had the pleasure of working with some of the industry’s most revolutionary chefs before taking on a kitchen of her own. A native of Birmingham, England, Chef Bloomfield began her culinary studies at Birmingham College. From there, she went on to hone her craft through cook positions in various kitchens throughout London and Northern Ireland, including Kensington Place and Bibendum. It was under the guidance of Ruth Rogers and Rose Gray at The River Café in London where she learned to appreciate the beauty and simplicity of food.

Before moving to New York, Chef Bloomfield spent the summer of 2003 in Berkeley, CA at the legendary Chez Panisse. In February 2004, she and restaurateur Ken Friedman opened New York City’s first gastropub, The Spotted Pig. Under her direction, The Spotted Pig has earned one star from the Michelin Guide for eight consecutive years, and since 2010, April and Ken’s The Breslin Bar & Dining Room also earned a star in the esteemed guidebook.

A Food & Wine Best New Chef, April Bloomfield continues to receive widespread

attention for her food. In fall 2010, she and Mr. Friedman opened The John Dory Oyster Bar, which joined The Breslin at New York’s Ace Hotel and earned a glowing, two-star review from The New York Times. Most recently, in December 2012, the duo opened Salvation Taco at the Pod 39 Hotel, where Chef Bloomfield collaborates with Chef Roberto Santibañez of Fonda Restaurants on a menu of international tacos and bar snacks. Chef Bloomfield and Mr. Friedman recently took over the famed Tosca Cafe space in San Francisco, CA, marking their first opening outside of New York.

Chef Bloomfield’s first cookbook, A Girl and Her Pig, was published by Ecco in April 2012. She stars on season two of the PBS program The Mind of a Chef, and has appeared in a wide variety of print media and television programs, including Iron Chef America.

LA PAPILLOTE10

SITE NAME STATESTUDENT

Welcome BackRetuRning exteRns!

DBGB Kitchen and BarPebble Beach ResortRestaurant AugustForagersThe Esalen InstituteFour Seasons Resort Jackson HoleColonial Williamsburg Inn & LodgeWallse RestaurantOld Fort PubWDW- Yacht and Beach ClubGet Fresh! BakehouseSugar Flower Cake ShopAlpine Country ClubSt. Francis Yacht ClubSt. Francis Yacht ClubSamoset ResortColonial Williamsburg Inn & LodgeSouth Seas Island ResortAbigail KirschBaltusrol Golf ClubLa PatisserieBuddakanColonial Williamsburg Inn & LodgeABC KitchenJean-GeorgesBreakers Resort HotelFog Island CafeThe Glass OnionMomofuku Noodle BarFog Island CafeManresa RestaurantColonial Williamsburg Inn & LodgeNorth End GrillMeadowlands Country ClubOliver KitaWDW- Swan and Dolphin HotelPer SeHyatt RegencyCake WorksFox Valley ClubLarchmont Yacht ClubCraft RestaurantHerbsaint RestaurantHmshost at SeaBeach Point ClubCanyon RanchUnion Square CafeMorimoto NYCWDW- Swan and Dolphin HotelThe Tuxedo ClubVanille PatisserieMarriott Grand HotelWoodstock Inn and ResortSomething NaturalThe Little Nell HotelTop of te Hub Restaurant and SkywalkHotel HersheyGrand Geneva Resort and SpaTopper’s at the WauwinetHmshost Per SeGiGi’sTorrisi Italian Specialties

NYCALANYCAWYVANYSCFLNJNYNJCACAMEVAFLNYNJNJNYVANYNYFL

MAMANYMACAVANYPANYFLNYMNHINYNYNYLAWANYMANYNYFLNYILALNYMACOMA

PAWIMAMNNYNYNY

Kevin AcostaSariheidy AcunaGareth AlonsoFranco AlonzoDianna BattAlexander BeckerErin BreenTravis BuggeEvan ChupurdyDaniel CoxAmanda DassattiBrittney DelgadoJesse DelorenzoHaralambos DemosthenousNicholas EllisonKrysten FailingAlexandra FragosoCassandra GaeteYusra HassanAshley HawkinsPayton HensleySoonoh JoBarry JohnsonBrittania KlinkerMoses KongDavid LabrecqueEvan LandryLauren LascaliaBryan LeaveyWillis LindstadtHaochen LiuMatthias MaihoeferFrancis MalingOscar MarinDiana MatiasMargaret McAndrewAustin McManusNicholas MillerTiara-May MoyerAlexander ObenauerMarcus PalmerMelissa PianinJoan PoramboElizabeth PreciusCynthia RizzoliNicholas RojasMarcial SaavedraJoseph SavelliMary SealsJared SerrChloe ShaffnerAndrew SiskSara SkibitckyDavid SlonkoskyJohn SpanningerTaylor Sukiennik Robert TannerCharlotte TaylorSonia ToralDeAndre WeaverYisroel WeissKeith WhitsonYi-Hsin Yu

Culinary Arts Group #1

Front:Michael Maschmeier

Tae Woong YoonLuis Herrera Magana

Boram HanEmmanuella Louis

Back:Corey Becker

Robert Kelleher IIJoshua Bonime

Sabrina Vanderputt

Culinary Arts Group #3

Executive Chef/Co-Owner The Spotted Pig, Breslin Bar and Dining Room, John Dory Oyster Bar, and Salvation Taco

Culinary Arts Group #2

Front:Caitlin Cassidy

Guy StablerChristopher Hatton

John Stein

Back:Beomsoo Kim

Thomas TrainorDaniel Erne

Julie NormanSarah KanterJu Hyeon Ryu

Front:Rebecca KronzAlexandra Ross

Inge OberholtzerTatiana Vernot

Katherine Montgomery

Middle:Emily Pace

Taylor RubensteinChristian Brengel

Ruchi ChhedaAhram Song

Bianca SwanepoelMegan Heimbigner

Not Pictured:

Back:Sun Young LeeLouie Mae Chu

Alana WindJessie KuznitzAshley Sheets

Eunlye OHongNot Pictured:

Keerthi Cacatte Jayakrishnan

Baking and Pastry

Provided by: Shelly Loveland, Creative Services- Writer/Editor

graDuation speaker: april BloomFielD

AOS Graduating Class ofJanuary 17, 2014

Front:Peter BresnahanScotty Bournival

Chanju KimInseok Jang

Back:Jeong Huh

YoungBae YunAbsaar Jawed

Not Pictured Or Listed:Matthew FinnJee Hye Jang

Samantha JohnsonErynn JonesRachael Peters

Monica TerracinoJason ToledoPrabath Withanage

Michael Hickey is executive vice president and president of Global Institutional for Ecolab. The company is the global leader in water, hygiene, and energy technologies and services that provide and protect clean water, safe food, abundant energy, and healthy environments. With headquarters in St. Paul, MN, Ecolab delivers comprehensive programs and services to the hospitality, food, energy, health care, and industrial markets in more than 160 countries.

Over his 28-year tenure at Ecolab, Mr. Hickey has held a number of key positions. Before taking on his current post, he was executive vice president and president of Institutional North America, senior vice president and general manager of multiple operating units, and senior vice president of global business development. Mr. Hickey began his career with the company in 1985 as a territory manager-in-training. Before joining Ecolab, he gained additional valuable sales and management experience within the foodservice industry.

In addition to his work at Ecolab, Mr. Hickey sits on the board of directors for the National Restaurant Association and serves as treasurer on the board of trustees of the National Restaurant Association Educational Foundation. He is a member of the board of the Ronald McDonald House Charities Upper Midwest as well. Mr. Hickey previously held the position of chairman of the board of the International Foodservice Manufacturers Association. He is also a member of several industry organizations, including the Multicultural Hospitality and Foodservice Alliance, the Society of Food Service Managers, and the Women’s Foodservice Forum.

Mr. Hickey graduated with a bachelor’s degree in marketing from St. Bonaventure University in St. Bonaventure, NY. He has also completed executive programs through Stanford University in Stanford, CA and Penn State University in State College, PA.

11January 16, 2014 POT LUCK

BPS Graduating Class ofJanuary 16, 2014

graDuation speaker: miChael a. hiCkeYProvided by: Shelly Loveland, Creative Services-Writer/Editor

Not Pictured Or Listed:Matthew FinnJee Hye Jang

Samantha JohnsonErynn JonesRachael Peters

Monica TerracinoJason ToledoPrabath Withanage

Culinary Arts: Amanda Allegrucci, Anthony Baita, Allyson Ball, Rosakie Barbish, David Barboza, Gabriel Bastidas, Lacey Benjamin, Lindsay Borenstein, Ryan Boyd, Kyle Briggs, Saige Brogdon-Cruz, Michael Brothers, Eric Brown, Roy Bryant, Shannon Buckley, Thomas Burch, Jennifer Burns, Christian Carpino, Jennifer Caruso, Todd Chatterton, Alicia Cooper, Quentin Cross, Kaitlyn Cryderman, Sierra Davies, Christopher Dodd, Iyll-Hahn Doh. Dayleny Dominguez, Brendan Dotterer, Nathan Duffy, Jeffrey Dunham, Jr., Thomas Elder, Leslie Filipelli, Alexander Finley, Daniel Fisher, William Foresman, Stephen Forgione, Andrew Forsstrom, Brian Francis, Nicholas Frank, Elani Gardner, Yaakov Gelb, Thomas Gering, Michael Goldenberg, Victoria Gonzalez, Richard Hajt, Taeyeong Ham, Steven Hays, Stephen Hensley, Dominique Ho, Zachary Hoffman, Marco Host, Mark Huxsoll, Amanda Incontrera, Daniel Jacobellis, David Johnson, Marcela Jongezoon, Ning Kang, Mikael Khaldi, Sang Kim, Sin Hyung Kim, Robert Kldke, Gregory Knapick, Timothy Knebel, Brandon Lajes, Mark Leahy, Da Me Lee, Matthew Lorman, Benjamin Luong, Gina Lupoli, Maxx Lyman, Benjamin Martin, Brooke Maynard, Nicholas Mazza, Kelsey McCallan, Tyler McGinnis, Mark Merrique, Katelyn Moore, Rachel Munroe, Tallulah Ama Norton, Patrick O’Meara, Charles O’Neill, Frankie Ortiz, Shelly Paden, Nicolas Padilla, Nickolas Palamaro, Rachel Pearce, David Peters, Leah Pfeiffer, Kristina Preka, Nicholas Proch, John Rofrano, Laura Romanski, Yosef Sahler, Antonio Scotto Di Carlo, Asia Shabazz, Max Shline, Jahnavi Singh, Samuel Smith, Jordan Smith, Madeline Steim, Owen Stenabaugh, Candace Stock, Zachary Stoller, Jesse Szewczyk, Christopher Tenore, Christian Turner, Christopher Turner, Miguel Velazco, Santiago Villaveces Hoyos, Clare Wagner, Nicholas Wasicek, Jake Weinberger, Meghan Williams, Adam Wilson, Andrew Worgul, Brandon Wright, Jason Wu, Bo Na Yoo. Baking and Pastry: Marisa Apontoe, Daniel Bergreen, Juliana Besinaiz, Chelsea Brenner, Esmerlin Brito, Ariela Burnett, Margo Carey, Matthew Cerone, Tiffany Chin, Caitlin Englert, Nancy Fisher, Claudia Fox-Rosellini, Lauren Galvin, Brian Gottlick, Amanda Grecco, Ashley Hickey, Miranda Hill, Anaya Johnson, Avida Johnson, Sun Ah Kim, Rebecca Koodish, Jenny LeMaster, Janradliz Melo, Devante Melton, Taylor O’Keefe, Brittany O’Keefe, Emily Pawlo, Catherine Pedersen, Sarah Sabatano, Charles Schaible, Alyson Tabb, Mayumi Tateishi, Catherine Tsang, Zachary Weeks, Stephanie Zauderer.

BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS CulinaryI am now post-extern, and I couldn’t wait to get back to school. I was looking forward to getting back into the routine at school. School is my happy place.

I was especially happy because my first class when I came back was baking and pastry. How could this not be a great class?! Turns out, it is. I love it!

However, because I came back from my externship one block early, I am not with my group who I started classes with last year. I am in with a mish-mosh of other people who are in our class because of a variety of circumstances. There are a few that know each other, but for the most part, we’re all new to each other.

We elected a team leader, as we always do, and we chose an older student, a student who had previously been in the armed forces. He seemed like a good choice. He was intensely masculine and definitely a leader.

Truth be told, I nominated him for the job. On day 3, he started a fist fight with a student probably 10 years younger

than him and about a foot shorter. Over dirty dishes. That weren’t even the other student’s dishes.

It was one of the most violent things I have ever witnessed. I was standing right beside the fight as it happened. That awful sound of a fist hitting someone else in the face sickens me. The other student fell, hitting his head on the corner of a table on the way down.

At this point, the rest is kind of a blur until the chef in the class came and broke the fight up. It doesn’t really matter what happened after that, anyway, or who the people were or what happened in the aftermath. The point is, this is not how you solve a problem. It’s barbaric, it’s uncivilized. Watching this occur ruined my day, and caused my stomach to churn. I spent hours afterwards shaking because I found it so horrifying. I cannot tolerate violence towards another human being.

The fact of the matter is, by using his fists to try to solve a problem, the perpetrating student caused a whole host of other problems. First of all, he caused turmoil for the group. He ruined everyone’s day. None of us really want him in our class. We certainly don’t trust him. All of the women in my class are frightened of him. He’s been stripped of the team leader title, and it has been given to someone else. He lost all of our respect.

This, among the big issues that he’s created for himself here at school. I have no idea how he will be disciplined. I don’t really care. Those are his problems.

I have stated before in this article that I am a non-traditional student at 42 years old. I’ve seen a lot. I’m not saying I’ve seen a lot because I’m 42, I mean that for whatever reason, God, the universe, whoever or whatever you believe in if you believe at all, has given me the opportunity in my life to experience a plethora of interesting, hurtful, amazing, difficult, incredible, horrible, and wonderful things. Or, maybe more than that, I’ve been given the gift of the ability to tell compelling stories about the things that have happened in my life, hopefully to shed light on others’ paths and problems.

What I know for sure is that in my life, from what I have seen, fighting never solves a problem. It always creates a bigger problem, and usually many of them. I think we are at a point here in the world where critical mass is being reached. So many things are wrong with this world that at some point, you have to ask yourself, “Am I part of the problem, or am I part of the solution?” Most of the students here are in the 18 – 24 age range. That is such a critical age in your life, the age where you really develop your belief systems, habits and personality. If you choose to be the type of person who fights, who insults others, who leads with your ego, who feels superior and entitled, who isn’t humble, and who isn’t kind, your life is going to be very, very difficult. You will certainly also make life difficult for

others along the way.I understand that people have problems and that there are all sorts

of things going on underneath the surface in people’s lives. People act out. I get that. I’ve been there. I’ve had substance abuse issues, I’ve been depressed, I’ve been broke, I’ve done some screwed up things. I’ve been naïve, I’ve been ignorant, I’ve been dumb. But my goal every day when I get up in the morning is to be the best version of Amy I can be, and the one thing I strive for on a daily basis, although I don’t always accomplish it, is to be kind to other people. For whatever reason, I have had a lot of people pick on me in my life. I know what it feels like. I’m trying to be the change I want to see in the world. I really do try to be kind to everyone and respect whatever it is that they have going on in their lives. Because we ALL have hard things going on in our lives. Everybody has a story.

Don’t make your problems your excuses to hurt other human beings. It is utterly unacceptable to hurt other people, and your karma WILL come back to you if you choose to be unkind. Do for others. Ask how you can be of service. Because there will come a day when you need help in return. If you’re unkind to others in any capacity, no one will want to help you. No one will want to hire you. In fact, no one will want to be around you.

Check yourself. If you have issues, proactively seek to solve them. The CIA does such a great job in trying to instill in students the need to be your best self to succeed in this industry. But this is a great life lesson no matter what direction you go. As you progress through this school, you have many opportunities to lead, to work with others, to assist in getting other people to the next level as you pursue and reach your own goals. Seek to do good. The feelings that you get from it are far better than the torment in your head after you do something screwed up. I believe wholeheartedly that most people know right from wrong (sociopaths aside). Choose right. It really is that simple.

This school starts laying the groundwork of how to be a conscientious leader from the moment you set foot on campus. I can’t count the number of times a chef has urged students to do the right thing when no one is looking and to lead by example. We have a First Year Seminar class (now named something else) that we take as soon as we land on campus that addresses these issues and encourages discussion. We have seminars with noted people from our industry who tell us that being unkind to employees is not going to yield the best results, and could even cause a great restaurant to fail. The school also provides a counseling service, the CAPS program, that is free to all students. There are not many opportunities out there, my friends, to get free counseling. If you’ve never gone to therapy, I greatly encourage you to try it. I went to a therapist for the first time at age 30, and it was one of the best things that I ever did for myself. I went regularly for three-and-half-years, and I tore down all the habits and beliefs that weren’t working for me and built a new foundation from the ground up. I regularly return to therapy when I have something going on in my life that seems overwhelming or is affecting my quality of life. I have used the CAPS program here. If you go through this school without visiting that office, then you are doing yourself a huge disservice. Self-introspection is the only way that you can be your best self. And we all need help in doing that at some point or another.

So, are you part of the problem, or part of the solution?

All In Good TasteA Commentary on Life at the CIA as an Nontraditional Student

Hertz247.com

@Hertz247Facebook.com/Hertz247

*15% Bonus offer expires 12/31/13. Offer has no cash value and is valid in the U.S. only.Maximum Pre-Pay purchase may not exceed $500. Prepaid and bonus dollars do not expire.Hertz Prepay and Save Terms apply. Reg. U.S. Pat. Off. © 2013 Hertz System, Inc.

PRE-PAY YOUR RENTALS & EARN A 15% BONUS! To pre-pay, just email us at membercare@hertz.com, insert “PREPAY” in the subject line, and let us know how much you would like to pre-pay $50, $100, $200 or $500 - we’ll do the rest. Credits do not expire. All you need to do is think about how to spend that extra 15% bonus!

To enroll:

1. Hertz247.com.2. Hertz247.com/DriverLicenseVerify.3. Drive 24/7 - Anytime you need.