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  • 8/12/2019 25756_Travel Notebook Ep4 Japan

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    GEDEON PROGRAMMES

    CARNETS DE VOYAGE

    JAPAN52MN

    A film byLaurent Jffrin

    ! "NTERVENANTS #$ %mme&' 2 femme&(

    )*+**+,)+2* - Oli.ier #/ 05()*+*)+)$+22 - Narratr #/ 05()*+))+,)+20 1 Ma& maer #3 4*()*+25+25+22 1 Gen&%u' tter #/ 4*()*+0)+5$+2) 1 Yun6 fi&%erman #/ 0*()*+00+,)+)7 1 Ol8er fi&%erman #/ 4*(

    )*+04+,$+)* 1 Lan8la8y #3 4*()*+0!+27+*, 1 Sae 9rer #/ 0*(

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    )*+,7+57+2) 1 Man6aa #/ ,*(

    START PROGRAMMETC )*+**+**+**

    OL"V"ERTC )*+**+,)+2*This man looks like a cartoon character.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+**+,4+22A drawing often says more than words.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+**+,!+*!

    TC )*+*)+)$+22":m Oli.ier Martin' a 3ren;% ;mi;-b aut%r' an8 ":.e been been li.in6 an89rin6 in Jaan fr t9 year&+ T%e lan8 f t%e ri&in6 &un %a& al9ay&fa&;inate8 me+ Startin6 9it% it& 6e6ra%i;al l;atin+ E

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    OL"V"ERTC )*+*0+*5+2*Amazing.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+*0+2)+)5Whats this?

    OL"V"ERTC )*+*0+2,+*5Cucumers marinated in rine. Theyre crunchy. !ery tasty.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+*0+02+)5"#en though $#e een li#ing here for two years% $m still amazed e#ery time $ come

    here. The colours and smells are mind&lowing... This market is known as 'yotoskitchen.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+*,+22+*!Surrun8e8 by muntain& an8 fre&t' yt i& a .ery lea&ant la;e t li.e+?et9een nature an8 ;ulture' t%e an;ient ;aital %l8& a &e;ial la;e inJaane&e %eart&+ yt& l8 8i&tri;t&' many mnument& an8 temle&' an8 Ben6ar8en& are a ;n&tant remin8er f t%e ;re Jaane&e rin;ile& f re&e;t'%armny an8 tran>uillity+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+*5+,5+*!yt i& l;ate8 in t%e ;entre f t%e main Jaane&e i&lan8 f /n&%u+ "t i& amulti-fa;ete8 ;ity' bt% m8ern an8 &teee8 in t%e a&t' lie Jaan a& a 9%le+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+*5+5!+2*T%e l8 imerial ;aital' yt i& n9 t%e 6ateeeer f Jaane&e tra8itin+

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+*$+*!+)*$ts a (ri#ilege to attend a tea ceremony in 'yoto... $n the two years $#e een here%$#e met (eo(le who#e introduced me here... so $ come. "#ery gesture is codedand (recise% according to old )a(anese tradition... $ think the tea ceremonydates from the *+thcentury... That gi#es you a sense of how strong tradition is in'yoto.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+*7+*5+)5T%e tea ;eremny i& nt a reli6iu& e.ent+ All Jaane&e ele n9 9%at itmean& an8 ;an atten8+ T%e ritual ;mbine& all t%e Jaane&e art& mae&ti;

    imn&H %i6%ly &tyli&e8 8e;ratin an8 mu&i;H &erene' ure 6e&ture&H ta&tin6an8 ;ntemlatin+++ /ur& ;an 6 by a& arti;iant& 9ait fr t%e tea+

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    OL"V"ERTC )*+*!+)0+)$A ne9 8ay 8a9n& .er t%e l8 %u&e& f Gin' t%e 8i&tri;t 9%ere t%e la&t

    6ei&%a& li.e+ " 8ream f en;unterin6 ne f t%&e 6ra;eful i;n&' but

    t%ey are in.i&ible t t%e ut&i8e 9rl8+ Jaane&e &;iety %a& many&e;ret&+ Only time an8 meetin6 ele ;an unl; it& 8r&+ One er&nintr8u;e& yu t ant%er er&n 9% bra8en& yur %riBn&+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+*!+,2+*!T%i& %a& %aene8 t me &e.eral time& in yt+ Lie 9it% Aya San' t%e e8itr

    f a ma6aBine t%at ubli&%e& my 8ra9in6&+

    D"ALOGFEAYA SAN OL"V"ER

    TC )*+*!+5)+*$

    D"ALOGFEOL"V"ERTC )*+))+04+*4,ensei% how long does it take to make a mask?

    MAS MAERTC )*+))+,)+20About one or two months.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+))+,4+*2Can you tell me what makes a good mask?

    MAS MAERTC )*+))+5*+*)A mask is good when it comes to life.

    MAS MAERTC )*+))+54+*4Its hard to explain, but they have to have a charm about them.

    MAS MAERTC )*+)2+),+*$Thats what interests me. Theyre human faces.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)2+2)+**$ts #ery (retty. !ery (retty- eally/

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+)2+27+)5The hardest (art to draw are the eyes. The eyes are #ery hard to get right.

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    OL"V"ERTC )*+)0+)7+2*A ;&y interir' a r;e&&in f mn&' a bu&y ;bble8 &treet' a bu&tlin6maret - e.ery ;rner f yt i& an rtunity t 8ra9+ ?ut Jaan i& a %u6e

    ;untry an8 my mi&&in i& t tra.el+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)0+04+*0"m tain6 ne f t%e m&t effi;ient mean& f tran&rt in Jaan 1 t%e train - tmy ne

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    D"ALOGFEOYSTER =OMAN OL"V"ERTC )*+)$+*5+*4

    D"ALOGFEOYSTER =OMAN OL"V"ERTC )*+)$+)2+*4

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)$+2*+*4This should e good% ecause this area is famous for its oysters.

    OYSTER =OMANTC )*+)$+24+2$

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)$+2!+)4$#e ne#er eaten oysters in )a(an efore. Arigato/

    OL"V"ER OYSTER =OMANTC )*+)$+07+2,

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)$+,4+*)eah- this is good. mm. !ery light. um/

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)$+54+)4

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)$+5!+*7$m drawing on a traditional s(oon from iya4ima used for ser#ing rice.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)7+*$+*!

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)7+))+)2This is my (hoto of you.

    OYSTER =OMANTC )*+)7+)4+))

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)7+5)+)2Miyaima t9n&%i i& >uaint an8 frien8ly' but t%e ea;e an8 >uiet n t%e re&t ft%e i&lan8 ;reate a &en&e f timele&&ne&&+

    OL"V"ER

    6

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    TC )*+)!+*,+*23re&te8 all t%e 9ay t t%e muntain t&' Miyaima i& a rte;te8 &ite+ Deerram freely' bir8& &in6' lea.e& ru&tle an8 br& babble a& " a&;en8 t t%elut+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+)!+25+22$ am going to the (eak of ount isen% the highest (oint on the island... ou ha#e totake the cale car... The scenery is s(ectacular ut... $m a it ner#ous. $ hate thesethings. 5ut sometimes when you tra#el% you ha#e to go out of your comfort zone &within limits of course.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2*+*7+*5The #iew is fantastic. $t was worth the ride/

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2*+),+22This is the side of )a(an that $ really lo#e. The natural landsca(e% with little islands%sea and forest... The wind is lowing and $ can feel the sun.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2*+0!+22Miyaima %a& been a %ly la;e ∈e t%e S%int &%rine f "t&uu&%ima 9a&fun8e8 an8 t%e int 9%ere all .i&itr& %a.e ;n.er6e8 ∈e t%e 4 t%;entury+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2*+52+*,At the entrance to e#ery tem(le% alutions are a ,hinto tradition... ou ha#e to (urifyyour hands... left hand then right hand... and your mouth... And wash the s(oon...Then you can enter the tem(le... and en4oy your #isit.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2)+04+*2S%int 1 meanin6 It%e 9ay f t%e 68& 1 i& t%e name 6i.en t animi&t belief&t%at in.l.e t%e 9r&%i f ubi>uitu& 8i.initie&+ T%e flatin6 &%rine f"t&uu&%ima' ;mlete8 in t%e )2t% ;entury' i& 8e8i;ate8 t t%ree &ea

    688e&&e&+++ Lie all S%int temle&' it& a la;e t%at e.eryne in &;iety .i&it&+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+22+**+),This tem(le is not a museum. $ts a li#ing (lace. 6rom families s(ending a weekendhere to cor(orate delegations with the C" and all the em(loyees in suits who comehere to (ray. $#e seen that efore.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+22+2,+)2There are tourists e#erywhere% (eo(le #isiting% watching and taking in the

    atmos(here% and a wedding% which shows that this sacred site is still #ery muchused.

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    OL"V"ERTC )*+22+,5+),Theyre walking (ast% 4ust as $m trying to finish off my other drawing. The ride iseautiful. eally 7uite stunning. $m going to start a new (age right now.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+20+*2+2*

    OL"V"ERTC )*+20+05+),An an;ient Samurai &trn6%l8' /a6i 9a& t%e ba;8r t an imrtant a6e inJaane&e %i&try+ "n )747' Y&%i8a S%in& i8ea& ;ntribute8 t t%e .ert%r9f t%e feu8al lr8& 1 t%e S%6un 1 an8 t%e a8.ent f imerial 9er+ T%at 9a&t%e be6innin6 f t%e Meii Era' a time f enli6%tenment an8 rene9al fr Jaan+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2,+*2+*)T8ay' /a6i bear& t%e tra;e& f t%at &try' e.en t%u6% it i& m&t famu& fr atra8itinal ;raft ttery+ /a6i tter& 6i.e &u6%t-after >ualitie& t t%eireart%en9are b9l& an8 teat&+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2,+)7+)!Hello. y name is !livier.

    GENS/FTC )*+2,+22+),

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2,+2,+22"leased to meet you.

    OL"V"ER GENS/FTC )*+2,+24+2)

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+25+)0+22$ll 4ust turn around a it. $ dont know much aout (ottery% so can you tell me whatss(ecial aout 8agi (ottery?

    GENS/FTC )*+25+25+22The main characteristic of this pottery is that the colour changes over time.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+25+00+*5$t is li#ing (ottery. The colour changes gradually. Thats interesting.

    GENS/F

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    TC )*+25+0$+22The finish is slightly porous, so li#uid seeps in and the earthenware gradually takeson the colour of tea. Thats really the special feature of this pottery.

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+25+52+)!Thats interesting. That follows the (rinci(les of )a(anese art% which is in unison withthe atmos(here% nature and the changing seasons. ,ensei% could $ try to do some(ottery? ou draw and $ do (ottery?

    GENS/FTC )*+24+*!+*7Im no good at drawing. Id rather help you do pottery.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+24+)5+)2

    All right. $ets do it that way.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+24+)7+)4This is a real first. $#e ne#er done this efore.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+24+0*+*,ight. $f $ go too fast% the owl will e lo(sided.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+24+05+)$Whoo(s/ '. oud etter fi9 that.

    OL"V"ER GENS/FTC )*+24+,4+*,

    OL"V"ERTC )*+24+5*+)4This is really fun.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+24+50+**$s the owl nearly finished? Can we cut it?

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2$+*4+*)$ see/ Thats how you do it/

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2$+)*+*48eres my first owl.

    OL"V"ER

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    TC )*+2$+)5+)4Well% $ had some hel(. !ery nice/

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2$+2)+))

    When $ look at this drawing% $ll think of you. Could $ ask you a fa#our% to make thememory more #i#id? $d like to (ut some clay on this (age.

    GENS/FTC )*+2$+0,+)!%ome clay& !f course.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+2$+0$+)5A it of clay. $t wont take long. $tll e your signature. $t will e your contriution to mysketch ook... :reat/ $ll 4ust s(read it around a it. $ll 4ust add some water so it

    sticks. This is a two&man effort. Thats it/ ;ut some more on. Around the edges. Thewhole (age. There/

    OL"V"ERTC )*+27+*5+)!There/

    OL"V"ERTC )*+27+*7*2

    OL"V"ERTC )*+27+))+*,8ows that for a work of art/?

    OL"V"ERTC )*+27+),+)7Fnlie Ty' Y%ama an8 O&aa' /a6i i& &till a &mall fi&%in6 t9n'.erlin6 t%e Sea f Jaan+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+27+24+2)

    "n 6eneral' t%e 9e&t ;a&t i& far le&& urbani&e8 an8 attra;t& fe9er .i&itr& t%ant%e Pa;ifi; ;a&t+ "t& a &ummery 8ay' & " 8e;i8e t ba& in t%e lai8-ba;atm&%ere f t%i& t9n' 9%i;% i& & unlie t%e ;li;%@& f Jaan+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+27+55+)2$ think its im(ortant to ha#e some time out when you tra#el% 4ust to reflect anda((reciate the atmos(here around you... The ackground atmos(here is what makesa drawing s(ecial. $d e#en say thats what gi#es a drawing its soul.

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+2!+2*+*$

    10

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    8ere we go/

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    How did it begin& It was probably by observing wild cormorants that men decided totame them and use them. It must have started like that... ut I dont know whothought of putting a leash around their necks.

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+02+0)+22What time will you start fishing?

    YOFNG 3"S/ERMANTC )*+02+05+*5-ell, about oclock, /ust after sundown.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+02+07+2)At night? ,o we wont see anything on the ri#er. 8ow do you fish in the dark?

    YOFNG 3"S/ERMANTC )*+02+,4+*,Actually, we need the darkness. -e light a bra0ier on the boat to light up the river.The sudden light frightens the fish. As they try to swim away, the cormorants spotthem and catch them. Thats how ukai works. -e wait for night to fall1

    OL"V"ERTC )*+00+*!+)*Crmrant fi&%in6 %a& been a&&e8 n frm 6eneratin t 6eneratin' frmma&ter t arenti;e' ∈e t%e 8a9n f time+ An8 alt%u6% n9a8ay& it i&mainly erfrme8 fr turi&t&' it %a& it& rt& in a 9ay f life+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+00+0)+),Was it your son $ was talking to earlier? Will he go out with you on the oat?

    OLDER 3"S/ERMANTC )*+00+07+)7

    OL"V"ERTC )*+00+,)+**

    ight.

    OLDER 3"S/ERMANTC )*+00+,)+)7-e live together. -e work together.

    OLDER 3"S/ERMANTC )*+00+,!+)*I teach him the trade, but I cant teach him everything. 2ust as birds teach birds, afisherman has to learn directly from the birds.

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    3ormorants were originally wild birds, and the fisherman must learn from nature.Thats why this fishing techni#ue is so old. ecause respect for thebirds is central to the practice. an must reconnect with nature.

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+0,+)4+2*f course. $m fascinated y the relationshi( etween (eo(le and animals. ,o thisreally interests me.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+05+00+)7A ni6%t ut 9at;%in6 t%e fi&%erman+ T%e ima6e& blur an8 mer6e+ " 9nt n9 ift%e ;at;% 9a& 68 an8 "ll %a.e t eat fi&% later+ "t& a ;mmn 8i&%t%ru6%ut Jaan+

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+05+,$+)!" nee8 &me &lee befre " tra.el uri.er t t%e 8ee .alley& f t%e %interlan8+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+05+5$+**After ;a&tal Jaan' " 8i&;.er rural Jaan' in t%e t%at;%e8 .illa6e fAinura+++ T%e %u&e& are all li&te8 a& FNESCO 9rl8 %erita6e+++ A &ea&nalatm&%ere in t%e mn&n rain+

    D"ALOGFEA"NOFRA LADY OL"V"ERTC )*+04+, 5+)*$ady4 $ets chat.!livier4 In 2apanese& !5.

    A"NOFRA LADYTC )*+04+5)+)!-e grill fish with salt.

    OL"V"ER#TC )*+04+5$+**

    A"NOFRA LADYTC )*+0$+*2+*2A little bit, like this.

    A"NOFRA LADYTC )*+0$+*$+)06ow you can stick them in.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+0$+)4+22

    7ight, there we are.

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    A"NOFRA LADYTC )*+0$+)!+)78o you want to draw&

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+0$+20+)$6ow& !5.

    A"NOFRA LADYTC )*+0$+02+229ou have a stunning model1

    OL"V"ERTC )*+0$+0!+*,Are you (roud of this heritage? 1i#ing in a listed house?

    A"NOFRA LADYTC )*+0$+,5+2,I have to admit I used to wish I had a more modern, practical house with a tiled roof...ut since these houses have been listed as world heritage, I feel differently. I like it.

    A"NOFRA LADYTC )*+07+*,+*4y daughters live in !saka and !kinawa. I go there often, but I prefer to live here.

    A"NOFRA LADYTC )*+07+)$+*)In the city, people are always rushing around. -hen Im waiting at the station and Isee them cram into the first train, they look like dust particles in a vacuum cleaner.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+07+07+)!ust in a #acuum cleaner/OL"V"ERTC )*+07+52+2)"t l& lie a >uiet 8ay+ Durin6 t%e mn&n' t%e .illa6er& 9ait ut t%e 8ay

    until 8inner' bat% an8 t%e futn+ " 6 ut 8e&ite t%e rain t are;iate t%i&aut%enti; .illa6e an8 ay a >ui; .i&it+ My %&te&& tl8 me 9%ere t fin8 a &ae8i&tilleryK

    D"ALOGFEOL"V"ER SAE EMPLOYEETC )*+0!+27+*,!livier4 3an I draw&%ak:man4 %ure.

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+0!+0,+)48ow long has sake e9isted in )a(an?

    14

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    SAE EMPLOYEETC )*+0!+0$+*,They say that sake was introduced at the same time as rice, from 3hina... !riginallyit was a drink for the gods, an offering. ut times change and customs too. %o now

    everyone drinks it.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,*+*)+),,o originally it was a drink for the gods.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,*+*5+)$8ow is sake made?

    SAE EMPLOYEE

    TC )*+,*+*7+**Its made with water and rice. -e steam the rice. -e add water. -e leave it toferment and it turns into sake1

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,*+2*+*4And de(ending on the (lace in the mountains and the taste of the water% sake tastesdifferently% right?

    SAE EMPLOYEETC )*+,*+2!+209es, the raw material is water. It influences the taste of the sake. ;ach region has itswater... and its sake1

    OL"V"ER SAE EMPLOYEETC )*+,)+*4+*!li#ier Well% kam(ai/,ak@man 'am(ai/li#ier And thanks for your kindness/

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+,)+)!+*,

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,)+05+)*m% $ cant rememer-

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,2+2$+),A ne9 8ay brea& .er t%e .illa6e an8 t%e ri;e a88ie&' t%e re8minant ;rin Jaane&e rural lan8&;ae&+ " tae a8.anta6e f t%e &unny at;% t 9al ut%e muntain at%&' 9%ere t%e un&ilt fre&t 8ebun& all ur ;li;%@& abut

    Jaan+ "m in lu; an8 ;me fa;e-t-fa;e 9it% a &er9' a rare nati.e 6at-antele+

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    OL"V"ERTC )*+,0+)4+22:i#en the countrys size and high (o(ulation density% its sur(rising how much of thenatural landsca(e has een (reser#ed... $ ne#er e9(ected to see so much uns(oilt

    nature in )a(an.

    OL"V"ER)*+,0+0$+*,When $ see the mist swirling around the mountain (eaks% $ cant hel( thinking of theanimals and magical creatures from )a(anese mythology. 5elief in s(irits and ghostshere is not 4ust fairy tales.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,0+5$+*!" a&& t%ru6% .alley& n my 9ay t Ty+ En rute t t%e ;aital' " &t ff t

    &ee t%e &ul%ur .ent& in /ane& .l;ani; .alley+ Nt mi&t t%i& time' but t%i;fume&+ =e ften fr6et t%at Jaan' l;ate8 n t%e Pa;ifi; Rin6 f 3ire' %a&arun8 4* a;ti.e .l;ane&+ Jaan i& at t%e mer;y f eart%>uae& an8erutin&+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,,+2$+*5Munt 3ui' 9%&e ;ne &metime& &eem& t flat in t%e ;lu8&' i& emblemati;in mre 9ay& t%an ne+ Alt%u6% 8rmant ∈e )$*$' t%e natinal &ymbl i&.i&ible t millin& f re&i8ent& f t%e me6alli&+ Lie a mena;in6 remin8er%.erin6 .er t%e 9rl8& m&t 8en&ely-ulate8 ;ity+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,5+)$+*4

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,5+22+)7y 4ourney egan in 'yoto% which is a city $ know well. To make a 7uick com(arison%'yoto is a horizontal city% whereas Tokyo is definitely #ertical.

    OL"V"ER

    TC )*+,5+,*+),There are millions of details all o#er the (lace. This will e really interesting to draw.The uran maze% the orthogonals% the horizontal lines% the #ertical lines% are wellalanced actually. This is a really interesting end to the tri(. $ts only a first im(ressionut its o#ious there. The uildings are huge. $ts amazing. "#erything is #ertical. $tsa #ertical city. $ cant wait to see it at night too.

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,$+**+*7Ty rela;e8 yt a& t%e ;aital in )4*0+ At t%e time it 9a& a fi&%in6 .illa6e;alle8 E8' built arun8 a me8ie.al ;a&tle+ E8 e

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    at t%e be6innin6 f t%e Meii Era in )747+ Ty an8 t%e t%er bi6 ;itie& n t%eea&t ;a&t frm a ;nurbatin 9it% a ulatin f !* millin+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,$+00+*0

    De.a&tate8 by bmbin6 8urin6 t%e Se;n8 =rl8 =ar' Ty i& n9 an ultra-m8ern metrli& buBBin6 9it% life' 9%ere it i& .ery ea&y t 6et l&t+

    OL"V"ERTC )*+,$+,4+*4"t& an e

  • 8/12/2019 25756_Travel Notebook Ep4 Japan

    18/18

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