CONCEPT REPORT BY Arayner Aisha.London College Of Fashion 2012.

CONTENTS

1. Ethos and Values2. The Concept2.1 Concealment2.2 Beyond the Veil2.3. The issues of Visibility3. TOTEMS Consumer3.1. Understanding the Consumer4. 360’s Questionnaire Results4.1 Concealed and Revealed Identity (A)4.2 Covered dress in Society (B)5. Analysis Of results5.1. Fashion and Identity within Modesty (C)6. Identifying the Modest Market7. 360 Customer Profile8. Young Creatives8.1 Case study9. The Current Market9.1. Macro Environment9.2. PEST Analysis9.3. Competition S.W.O.T Analysis9.4. Micro Environment9.5. Marketing plan for year one10. 360 S.W.O.T analysis11. The 4 P’s12. 360 for TOTEM production chain13. Logo Development14. Modest Design Constraints15. Design Inspiration15.1 Fabrics15.2 Colours15.3 Print experimentation16. Evaluation17. Bibliography

360 ETHOS & VALUES

1. 360 is a conceptual range developed by Graduate Arayner Aisha through the universal umbrella of Identity.

360 focus on the care of their partners through its product and high standards of equal op-portunity. To support the community and ensure equality on a global approach, 360 take pride in committing to build on this consumption of clothing that identifies us as nationals.

2. 360’s initial research examines the representations of equality behind the body and con-cealment, analysing faith based fashion with a 'Modest' approach. They do not focus on a for or against argument on the standards of modest dress; they aim to understand the influences concealed dress has both on the wearers and society. This report addresses the most extreme enforcements of modesty laws and also examines western perceptions of Modesty. A series of research methods were developed in order to establish how the Islamic veil can be desirable to some and intolerable to others.

THE CONCEPT

" …. from shawls and headscarves to face veils and full head-to-toe coverings… these have long been the key trope to which Muslim women's Identity has been

defined and imagined by non-muslims in the West." (Tarlo, 2010)

CONCEALMENT

2.1. In the western world, the body is used as a canvas to express individuality and covering parts of the body is generally seen as an individual right. Ignoring stigma's attached to indecency or nudity, democratic societies generally embrace simple forms of covering, on a lower spectrum of modesty. Where individuals choose to conceal parts of their bodies, it is often in response to insecurities fuelled by mainstream media ideologies of beauty.

Elsewhere and often in the hottest parts of the world, more extreme forms of covering are a daily routine, such as in the Middle east, Asia and parts of Africa. This covering may be due to religious beliefs or cultural traditions. Particularly however, recent debate has focussed on Muslim women and their chosen attire.

“The veil to some is the uniform of oppression, but why for many millions of women has it become a powerful symbol of political liberation:” (Ahmed, S. 2010)

2.2. Younger Muslim women are now wearing the veil by choice unlike their elders, these women are conveying the veil as a political statement of Identity.

Using creativity as a platform, 360 reveal the development of Identity that allows an expression of individuality and concerns on representations of equality.With young creatives at the for front of modest fashion development in the UK, the emergence of a niche market has been created, and the 360 range reflect these concepts of covered dress within the fashion community.

BEYOND THE

2.3. Specifically to western eyes, the veil represents the concealment of female identity from public view in contrast to a society that are used to adorning their faces for viewing as an expression of self. It is therefore hard for some to understand why Muslim women might choose to wear a veil. It is a common argument that such Islamic practices, render women invisible and disempower them, therefore they are seen as non-egalitarian.

For countries such as France that prides itself with the principle of equality, some might argue that they are suppressing this right of religious identity, through the banning of the Burka.

The Issues Of Visibility

Fig. 1. Muslim Girl demonstrating against French Burka Ban (WSJ, 2011)

REF. DAILY MAIL [ISLAMIC WOMEN IN BRITAIN] - 05.09.10

New Brits / Young

“She wants to achieve, she has big ideas and future prospects. Everything that’s thrown at her she will be manipulated and used to her advantage.”

“She is Pragmatic and also realistic, her role models are

not the most idealised figures but are common people who

believe in small possible dreams.”

TOTEM carried out 200 questionnaires based on individuals Values and Lifestyles. To gain responses about peoples representations of life, the results analysed have backed the idea of opening a concept store around the chosen theme of Identity. This store is aimed at a market of New Brits and Young Creatives. (See TOTEM report, pg. 33-34)

TOTEM’s Consumer ....

3. The New Brits are aged 21-36.

3.1. Specifically in reference to the veil, 360 carried out research methods targeting 40 New Brits/Young creatives aged between 21 - 36. This research was to assess whether the potential TOTEM consumers are socially aware of the representations of covered dress.

The questions were designed to discover:1) How aware are people of the social effects of covered dress?

2) What was the general response to frances Burka ban?

3) Analysising the responses to modest apparel within the fashion retail market

These results assist in determining ways of re-inventing ‘Modesty’ through to fashion realisation.

UNDERSTANDING THE CONSUMER

What do you consider shapes your Identity?

What are the first impressions that you get

from this image?

Consumer Aaged 25

Culture and Environment

Contrast between western culture of freedom & self expression against an old mind state of dictatorship & opression.

Consumer Baged 21

Music and the Arts I get the impression this women has a husband that controls her as its the mans decision what their wife should wear. It makes me feel really sad.

Consumer Caged 21

My Identity is my Religon! Without it I wouldn’t know who I

was!

I see a free women, a women who is covered because she is trying to get closer to her lord. A women who doesn’t feel like she has to mould herself to try and fit society and be accepted by the people liv-ing in it…..!

Consumer Daged 28

Family Society Politics Religion

Freedom of expression I don’t agree with either expression as there is too much excess expres-sion in either direction. The image is deliberately designed to shock and provoke the viewer into identifying with either image or arguing against either.

4.1. CONCEALED AND REVEALED IDENTITY - (A)

4. 360’s CUSTOMER QUESTIONNAIRE RESULTS

What do you consider shapes your

Identity?

Consumer Eaged 35

Culture Yes. In Western society full-face exposure features as part of the social conventions. Doing otherwise in such an environment engenders mistrust and suspicion, creating separatism which could lead to a breakdown of social controls.

Consumer Faged 25

Culture and Environment

No. the wearing of a burqa does not infringe on a coun-try’s values. Any country that tries to limit religious expression is walking a road that leads to genocide and holocaust. It is better to enter walk into a dialogue rather than retreat into fear.

Consumer Gaged 37

My Culture Yes an No. Yes because its hiding someone’s identity, an pretty much restricts them from communicating. No because if thats the individuals choice to wear it then they should not be restricted by rules, its part of there culture.

“Picture human silhouettes covered up with long garments, running away from riot police in full gear” (N.Arikha, 2011)

4.2. COVERED DRESS IN SOCIETY - (B)

The responses to questions, (A) and (B) were indeed expected, but were also quite diverse. Everybody had a strong opinion and almost no one had nothing to say.

Question (A)

Confirm that the majority of people were at ease with the revealment of the body and seemed to only focus on the covered woman.

They are aware of the social implications of covering, however for some, this difference in appearance has formed a bleak understanding of oppression around muslim women.

Question (B)

Reveals that the ban is another example of the continuous battle between people and society. Some see wearing of the veil as a barrier towards the fundamental principal of communication, others seem keen to express their anger towards a liberal democracies expectations to suppress the expression of religious Identity.

However, the ban has also been seen as an enforcement to the right in the French regaining cultural Identity.

Both questionnaires confirm that there is a visible link between the individuals response to Identity and their views towards Covered dress. With help from the New culturalist customer, 360’s goals are too make people more aware of the diversities within concealed dress and these results confirm that it is neccessary to do so.

It is also key for 360 to communicate to the public, why women choose to dress covered. This social responsibilty is to help society understand and slowly break down cultural stereotypes formed by dress.In addition to the results, it was important to discover what retailers the New Brits can relate to in comparison to TOTEM’s key com-petitors. (See TOTEM Report, pg. 19)

5. ANALYSIS

5.1. FASHION AND IDENTITY WITHIN MODESTY (C)

WHICH FASHION RETAILER BEST DESCRIBES YOUR IDENTITY?

The responses:

“Well very hard although I am modestly dressed I also wear whatever I want underneath my outer garments but it tends to be whatever whenever. (hard question lol)” - Rachel Aliya Guthrie, aged 21

“None. I have not identified with today’s designers. They appear to rely on shock factor rather than genuine vision” - Abigail Jenaasa, aged 24

“As I fully cover up, except for my face (yet) with a jilbaab, (long wide black material that goes over my body) I like to feel like I can put my identity across through the bags and shoes/trainers I wear which show my style in a up most respective way.” - Kaltoum Ismail, aged 22

“i don think any specifically fit my identity, my look resembles how i feel, i’ve always been a creative person and i express that in my clothing so i may take items from various high street shops and create my own style/look. My Fashion Identity is being different and not being afraid to try new looks.” - Yasmin Knox, aged 21

The responses were very diverse, but clear to note that none of the women identified with the current fashion retail market. These results reveal 360’s platform of development for creative expressions through concealed dress.

[Refer to 360 Appendice 3 for further results.]

Further questions were conducted with 4 modest dressed women within the creative industries in order to find out how they identify with the current fashion retail market.

FASHION AND IDENTITY WITHIN MODESTY

The results refine the idea of developing the beauty behind the mind set of dressing modestly and expressing it visually through the 360 collection.

With many modest dress women being unable to identify with what is on the highstreet, this has left a gap for 360 to design covered dress that represents these individual’s identities.

For future market research it would be wise to use more concept visuals which will initiate diverse responses and perhaps go more in-depth into the consumers shopping habits.

MODEST APPAREL MAINSTREAMFOCUS GROUP RECORDED 2/11/11 [Refer to 360 Appendice 3]

HOW WOULD YOU FEEL ABOUT A NEW CLOTHING RANGE BEING LAUNCHED FOR FASHION FORWARD FEMALES THAT WISH TO DRESS MODESTY?

A - "I think that is a great idea…I have a lot of friends that have fun dressing covered but find it challenging to find clothes that are suitable to there regulations.. it will be very interesting to see that approach"

In contrast to the Muslim attire being a controversial debate, the amount of young women choosing to dress modestly in accordance to their faith is growing rapidly across the Globe. With designers such as Hana Tajima, being at the for front of modest fashion development in the UK, these women have created a niche market where the online media spheres are the filters for all topics.

“Whatever the look, hijabistas share one style principle: This is not their mother’s head scarf – conservative, plain, and a little too formless.”. (Haung, C., 2009.)

“Hijabista” is the name given to these Young Creatives, the name stems from the traditional muslim head scarf the “Hijab”. These women have created inter-faith like communities with the secular world where they identify and share the same concern of female representation, and desires of wanting to be visually and spiritually expressive through fashion.

[Refer to 360 Appendice 3]

IDENTIFYING THE FASHION MODESTY MARKET.

6. Identifying modest dressed females to establish a 360 consumer profile.

THE HIJABISTA.

8. The NEW BRITS/ NEW CULTURALISTS are 360’s realistic consumer, who are most able to afford to shop at the TOTEM store, specifically because of their age range. However, it is the young creatives who are the brains behind the design strategies withinmodest apparel development.

The 360 design and lifestyle aesthetic will be inspired by these young creatives.

Attempting to break down constructed stereotypes of there lifestyle, they are readily energised to show that they are not just an over sexualised, careless young females.

Young

They aspire to become part of the leadership in change as they are apart of a generation with fundamental commonalities that transcend borders.

23 years old

Japanese father and English mother, her culture and religion shapes her identity

Didn't study fashion and never really got along with formal education.

During her conversion found it hard to find Modest clothes that showed her individuality.

Translated runway looks from western designers into modest but highly chic ensembles.

She transformed knee-length dresses and sleeveless tops into a hijabistas dream come true with a bit of creativity.

Her first fashion blog Style Covered is number one on the list within the UK Fashion modest community.

CASE STUDY.

From mod to minimalist, bohemian to vintage, and retro to raggae, she has made it possible for there to be a style to suit every individual.

She is an entrepeneaur.....Head designer and Director of Fashion label, MAYSAA

Hana Tajima Simpson

Muslim convert for 5 years

[Refer to 360 Appendice 5 for full interview with Hana]

8.1

"The thought that there can be a protection and practicality,

but also a subtle, infinitely deep beauty in a garment is an incred-

ible platform for creativity. The best design is when you can't

separate the two elements; style and modesty. Compromise shows

up in a design, it's not good."- Hana Tajima-Simpson

9.4. Micro EnvironmentThe Markets for modest clothing have emerged through online interactions. With merely all the mod-est generation online retailers originating from a faith community, a perceptual map was recorded to assess how 360 fit into this market.

SocialIn�uence

ReligiousIn�uence

FashionForward

Conservative

THE GAP! MODEST APPAREL THAT IS FASHION

FORWARD INSPIRED BY SOCIAL INFLU-

ENCES....

"Smaller brands are adopting a global approach to drive their expansion, particularly as e-commerce offers increasing opportunities to sell products" (Lewis, R. 2011)

The modest retailers seem to have a specific religious ethos which can isolate non religious women from identifying with them.

For labels such as Aab, their ethos focuses on a balance of religious belief and social influence, but this fails to communicate with a variety of customers outside the faith groups. Maysaa have accomplished the art of combining modesty with style and social awareness but lack in fashion diversity, this leaves a gap for 360 to fill.

[Refer to 360 Appendice 5 for full Modest Retail information]

DESIGN CONCEPT360:

The representation of

Identity behind the body and concealment.

360 MODEST DESIGN CONSTRAINTS

Hips and bum are also covered dressing with layers or loose fitting garments. The waistline is often enhanced by garment shapes thus allowing a feminine sillouette.

360 follow a design asthetic that makes each garment appeal to a variety of women. Each piece is designed to follow a modest approach, but can also be styled with fewer layers to express an individuals desired look.

14.

Do not have to wear a head scarf to be considered Modest. However some women feel it is essential for religious purposes, and others feature the head-scarf as a fashion accessory.

Modest dressed women in most cases do not allow cleav-age to be shown, so avoid low necklines or tight fitting tops. In this case layering has been used to camouflage the bust area.

Skirts and Trousers are at most times full length. Garments that fall just after knee length are also suitable for Modest dress-ers that are less strict.

Arms are often fully covered, sleeves can be tight fitting or even just below elbow length.

Refer to 360 Appendice 7

WE LIVE...WE CREATE...IT’S OUR

TIME...

The way one chooses to dress reflects their chosen Identity. In Britain (and globally) today, the main forms of identity are expressed through Religion, Social mediums and political beliefs.

360 aim to combined these elements by enhancing them through fash-ion and culture. The first introduction to the 360 label, identifies a con-cern of female representation and covered dress within society today.

The Concept explores global practices that adopt the concealment of Identity to de-ttach themselves from social sigma’s of acceptance and beauty. 360 reveal a 360 degree representation of covered dress influ-enced by social, political and religious angles of IDENTITY across New Britain.

“We are Freedom Of

Expression; A Freedom of Identity

developed from worldly influenc-

es through years of

intergration.”

- 360

THE YOUNG CREATIVES/NEW CULTURALISTS ARE BRITAINS NOMADIC COMMUNITY.

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

GLOBAL NOMADIC LIFESTYLES

‘I don’t do what society tells me, but

I do follow the rules of the natural world. You

can’t beat nature so you just have to obey it

completely.

‘That’s what I learned when I came

here, and that’s probably why I

get by so well.’

Ironically Mr Nagasaki says he spent years in the limelight working in the entertainment industry before he decided to get far away from civilisation.

REF: Mr. Nagasaki - Daily Mail , 17/04/12

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

BRITAINS NOMADIC PEOPLE

THE YOUNG

WE AREIDENTITY.As representitives of social, political and reli-gious identities, the Y.C’s use fashion to ex-press personalities and to REPRESENT their beliefs.

The Y.C’s have a 360 degree outlook on “modest’ dress, and embrace multifarious identites taken from underground lifestyle and culture within Britain.

They evolve through travel and exploration, and constantly re-create the element of cov-ered dress as a statement of liberated fe-male Identity.

The ‘Hijabista’ is a modern day example of a young creative (see appendix). But 360 aim to develop and expand their movement to a wider consumer market.

360 visually explore these elements, to re-invent covered dress based upon the hyper culture of the young creatives within Britain...

Attempting to break down con-structed stereotypes of their life-style, they are readily energised to show that they are not just over sexualised, careless young females.

They aspire to become part of the leadership in change as they are apart of a generation with fundamental commonalities that transcend borders.

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

The YOUNG CREATIVES[CONSUMER PROFILING]

A Young Creative, on a life long journey of self discovery.

Left in an uncompromisingposition, where she is involved in a constant battle of defining a multifarious IDENTITY.

The mind, body and spirit dominates her intellectual discoveries as she travels to seekworldly influences.....

“She is Pragmatic and alsorealistic. Her role models arenot the most idealised figuresbut are people who believe in pushing boundaries to make dreams possible.”

A RE-INVENTION OF COVERED DRESS

The 360 signature appears as

organised randomness which is a fusion depicted upon elements of

Nomadic lifestyles that have no fixed identity but share commonalities of rebellion and exploration.

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

THE 360 RE-INVENTION OF COVERED DRESS

The Identity of 360 captures a

STYLE that is not recognised as a

mainstream specific. It is a

fusion of layered textures and

colours, expressing

multifarious identities.

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

THE 360 RE-INVENTION OF COVERED DRESS

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

THE HYPER IDENTITY of 360

Mathew AimesEncens Magazine

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

ESTABLISHING DESIGN LANGUAGEinitial designs analysing sillouhettes and layering

Mathew AimesEncens Magazine

POP

GREEN

POP

PINK

POP

BLUE

MONO

TONE

360 is all about identity and expression, it chooses to inspect on the fact of why we choose to wear what we do, and look for the purpose of how

this relates to our identity.

Covered dress is seen as a representation of hiding identity, 360 choose to reverse this ideology through colourrepresentation. The colours people choose to wear reflects their personalities, so

the 360 colour palette features pastel POP colours that express the Vibrance

of the label, THE YOUNG CREATIVE IDENTITY and the bold

statement of re-invention 360 aim to bring to the modest apparel market. These colours subject against a monotone backdrop which expresses a modest colour balance tot he collection! This also gives the consumer practicality which make the products wearable.

COLOUR||PRINT||FABRICExperimentation

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

PRINT INSPIRATION

COLOUR||PRINT||FABRIC

360 - MEDIATING MODESTY

PRINT INSPIRATION

Covering the hair is the most common sign of

modesty

WE FLIP IT, WE PRINT IT, WE SHOW IT

MOST MODEST DRESSERS BELIEVE THAT COVERING YOUR HAIR IS THE 1ST SIGN OF MODESTY AS YOUR HAIR IS YOUR MOST BEAUTIFULASSET. UNLIKE THE STEREOTYPE “HIJABISTA” THE 360 Y.C’S REPRE-SENT STATEMENT FASHION

360 REVERSE THIS IDEA

360 -

PRINT DESIGNPREVIEWS

PRODUCTION

11.

As retailers are at the heart of consumerism, they have a responsibility to set targets in reducing their carbon footprint.

Fair trade plays an equal role in the market environment where consumers tend to want to know the origins of their purchases. This will be just one of the main ethics used within the 360 range.

As one of the main competitors of 360, MAYSAA is known for its aim at a market who care for the birth of their product: " A pioneer not only in fashion but in social responsibility MAYSAA is aiming to set an industry standard where people and environment from design to delivery are cared for" (MAYSAA, 2011)

It is important to recognise these assets, as fair-trade and ethical standards have become a funda-mental attraction for the modest and Premium Market.

PREMIUM QUALITY“…the use of better materials and craftsmanship is the ultimate element which makes premium brands more desirable... highlighting that most consumers think that a luxury label provides a trust-worthy guarantee of superior quality” - (Mintel consumer attitudes towards luxury market 2011)

STRENGTHS

- At an advantage with regards to finding an expanding niche market

- Able to deliver the criteria for a wide con-sumer category that hold the same values - Have the knowledge and support struc-

ture to offer reliable customer support for in store, online and backstage operations

- Innovative customer campaigning- Price points reflect the promotion of ethics,

craftmanship, design, service and quality- Able to build customer relationships through

social engagement

THREATS

- The growth of the Modest market is making the market more competitive- TOTEM store may not recieve the

popularity intended when store space opens.

- A move to online consuming leading to a decline in store visits and social interac-

tion.

OPPORTUNITY

- A niche market has developed for modest clothing through online interaction.

- To drive expansion on a global approach through the development of technology and

wifi portable devices- Brand ensure to achieve full ethical supply

chain within the 5 year plan- To recognise social influence and connectiv-

ity through consumer Lifestyle inspiration - To capture a broader market where modest

competitors are left vulnerable

WEAKENESSES

- Supply chain not fully ethical within the 1st year of production

- Strong competiton from more acces-sible and cheaper retailers

- Price points may be seen as too high for potential customers

- Lack of brand recognition

10.

PRODUCT360 offer a range of 6 quality pieces that

encompass the values of the New Culturalist shopper. Consumer and marketing research shows that

there is a demand for expression and difference within the modest apparel market [Refer to 360 appendice 5]. There is

also a gap for socially influenced fashion within the mainstream sector, these factors can be achieved through the the influence of

the 360 store and the design aesthetc. Premium quality of the range is also key,

“Behind-the-scenes and how-it-was-made content will be as appealing as the finished products” (Marshall, R. WGSN 07/09/11)

Initially the collection will be available from sizes 8-14, as con-sumer research shows that these are the most popular

sizes in the retail sector. 360 do plan to extend to size 18-20 in the near future.

PLACE360 aim to open an interactive

concept store located in a thriving social community area.

The popularity for e-commerce is essential in pro-ducing the conditions for making this niche market possible to expand in its current rate. Also the me-dium of the internet creates new opportunities for women to express there ideas about modest dress-

ing. Therefore an online store is essential for the production and development of 360.

PRICEBased on competitive research and price archetecture, the 360

range will hold price points in relative comparison to All saints.

Basics From - £50Highest price to £400

Premium quality and ethics all play a key role in the price margins of

the range.

PROMOTIONA series of events and advertise-

ments will help gain awareness of the 360 label, and the main source of pro-

motion will be through social media. This has responded as an ideological marketing device which can assist 360 in becoming a popular label within the modest apparel

market.