3d printer workshop
DESCRIPTION
Slide deck from my workshop @bitraffineriet 24th September 2014. Images are CC 4.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/) unless otherwise noted. Feel free to use and share but link to my blog flashgamer.com when doing so.TRANSCRIPT
@bitraffineriet / bitraf.no
Thursday, September 25, 14
3D PRINTER WORKSHOPBitraf, September 24 2014
Jens Chr Brynildsen @jenschr / jenschr på gmail
Thursday, September 25, 14
OVERVIEW• How does our printers work?
• What software should you download?
• Printing workflow
• Finding 3D models online
• How to solve common problems
• ABS printing
• How to make your own 3D models
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HOW DOES OUR PRINTERS WORK?
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ULTIMAKER ORIGINAL
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ULTIMAKER 2
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FRAME
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ON / OFF
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WHEN THE LAST PERSON LEAVES -ALL 3D PRINTERS ARE TURNED OFF.
LONG PRINT? STAY AND READ A BOOK...
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4 AXIS
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X & Y AXIS
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Z-AXIS
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ENDSTOPS
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BUILD PLATFORM
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PLASTIC FEEDING
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HOTEND
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EXTRUDER
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BOWDEN TUBE
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ULTICONTROLLER
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OTHER PRINTERS?
• All printers will have similar features/equipment
• All you learn today will apply to other machines, but the physical layout may be different
• Open Source printers encourage you to learn & print
• Closed Source printers encourage you to print
• Bitraf encourages Open Source
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WHAT SOFTWARE SHOULD YOU DOWNLOAD?
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FOR ALL USERS
Download Curahttp://software.ultimaker.com
(Windows, Mac, Linux)
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CURA
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PLASTICS
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PLA
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
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PLA ABS
• melts at >110C
• rugged / LEGO plastic
• made from oil
• requires special care
• needs a heated bed
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
Thursday, September 25, 14
PLA ABS
• melts at >110C
• rugged / LEGO plastic
• made from oil
• requires special care
• needs a heated bed
• melts at 50-70C
• brittle / will snap
• fully renewable
• very easy to use
• needs a fan
Thursday, September 25, 14
OTHER PLASTICS
• PLA/ABS with additives
• PET (Polyethylene terephthalate) / XT
• Nylon / PC (Polycarbonate) / HIPS (High Impact Polystyrene)
• NinjaFlex, EcoFlex, FlexiFil, Rubber-like
• Woodfill/Copperfill, Laywood/Laybrick/BendLay
• Poro-Lay (porous, fibrous, foam, felt, jelly consistency)
• PVA (AquaSolve), thermocromatic
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FILAMENT TIPS• We have some donated plastic here to play with. YMMV
• The “cheap plastic” is often expensive if time is a cost
• Buy your own plastic to learn what you are printing with
• Buying from a renowned vendor will save you time and grief (use Ultimaker, Faberdashery, DiamondAge, Ultimachine, GRFF or Protoparadigm)
• Colorfabb’s PLA/PHA mixture can be difficult to work with unless you only print with that one plastic. It’s more sticky...
Thursday, September 25, 14
Ball Bearing in filament? Image by RichRap, http://richrap.blogspot.no/2012/06/jammed-frggn-nozzle-30doc-days-1518.htmlThursday, September 25, 14
ALTERNATE SOFTWARE
• Check out Slicer http://slic3r.org/(for Windows, Mac & Linux)
• Repetier Host for direct control of the printerhttp://www.repetier.com/download/
• Kisslicer & Netfabb may be interesting too
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PRINTING WORKFLOW
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WORKFLOW
1. Find / make model
2. Slice model & save to SD
3. Prepare the printer
4. Start printing!
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1. FIND A MODEL
• Thingiverse.com
• Youmagine.com
• Cubehero.com
• Bld3r.com
• Github
Read more at http://richrap.blogspot.no/2014/05/makerbot-patents-twist-knife-on-open.htmlThursday, September 25, 14
2. SLICE THE MODEL
• Cura
• Slicer
• Kisslicer
• Netfabb
• Skeinforge / RepG
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CURA
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3. PREPARE THE PRINTER(All steps may not be required)
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3. PREPARE THE PRINTERPrepare the build surface
Image by Ultimaker
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PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
Thursday, September 25, 14
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
Thursday, September 25, 14
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
Thursday, September 25, 14
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
Thursday, September 25, 14
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
Thursday, September 25, 14
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
Thursday, September 25, 14
PREPARE THE PRINTERLevel the print bed
Image by Ultimaker
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PREPARE THE PRINTERInserting filament & priming
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PREPARE THE PRINTERUse Ulticontroller to heat the nozzle
1. Push Encoder2. Select “Control”3. Select “Nozzle”4. Set to 210C
Image by Ultimaker
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PREPARE THE PRINTERWhen heated, open extruder latch
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PREPARE THE PRINTEROpen extruder drive
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PREPARE THE PRINTERInsert the filament
Insert filament all the waythrough the bowden tube. Push until it reachesthe extruder.
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PREPARE THE PRINTERClose and prime the extruder
Lock the extruder & thenturn the big extruder gearuntil you see plastic coming out of the nozzle.
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4. START PRINTING
1. Insert SD card2. Push Encoder3. Select “Print from SD”4. Scroll to the file & select
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WHEN THE LAST PERSON LEAVES - ALL 3D PRINTERS
ARE TURNED OFF.
NO EXCEPTIONS!
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Image from http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?392,375707Thursday, September 25, 14
Image from http://www.fabbaloo.com/blog/2014/7/13/near-disaster-while-3d-printingThursday, September 25, 14
Image from https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/tOx2ED07F9A/YdNPOL8I8NwJThursday, September 25, 14
PRINTING BREAK...
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PRINTING RULES1. You break it, you fix it
2. Keep the space clean. Don’t leave a mess.
3. The printers are a membership advantage. Only Bitraf members may use the printers (as well as other machines).
4. For good prints - buy your own quality plastic. Keep it in a bin in the Lab.
5. No unattended printing. When the last person leaves - all 3D printers are turned off along with all other equipment.
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HOW TO SOLVECOMMON PROBLEMS
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SWITCHING PLASTICS
• Feed plastic manually until new color shows
• Keep extruding for a while or do a test print
• Old colors will keep contaminating your print until you got it all out
• Slightly hotter temp may help cleaning out the old
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GREAT HELP-SITE!
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HOTEND
Copper nozzle
Aluminium heater block
Peek tube
PTFE insert (White plastic)
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CLOGGED HOTEND (A)1. Warm extruder to 200C
2. Hold aluminium block still with a wrench
3. Use another wrench to unscrewthe copper tip. Can’t be done when cold!
4. Heat copper using a burner
5. Insert a piece of ABS/PLA firmlyinto the warm tip. Wait a fewseconds and pull back. This removesplastic & impurities
6. Use the wire of a resistor to push any impurities into the nozzle tip & then do #4 + 5 until clean
7. Re-assemble while warm or it won’t fit
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If you leave the extruderhot for a long time
you’ll create one of themost time-consumingproblems for yourself.
A plug forms here sincethe heat creeps up the
brown PEEK piece.
When you try topush warm plastic into
a tube, it expandsand creates a plug...
CLOGGED HOTEND (B)
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To solve this, you need to:
1. Heat the extruder & retract the filament
2. unscrew the long screws
3. Lift out the hotend assembly so you can remove the plug
4. Screw the thing back together while you make sure the bowden tube is flush with the white plastic piece that goes into the brown peek. Any gap there will allow plugs to form again.
CLOGGED HOTEND (B)
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COLD-PULL
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OTHER ERRORS?jenschr [ på ) gmail { punktum ) com
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ABS PRINTING
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DIFFERENCES
• Heated build platform
• Kapton or PET tape
• UHU glue stick
• No print-fan
• Enclosure
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WARPING
http://i.imgur.com/h3fyXCp.jpgThursday, September 25, 14
WARPING
http://i.imgur.com/h3fyXCp.jpgThursday, September 25, 14
PREVENTING WARPING
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WARPING
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POST-TREATMENT
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POST-TREATMENT
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QUESTIONS?
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