· 4-h equine series exploring horses levels 1—3 introduction have you ever wanted to learn...
TRANSCRIPT
4-H Equine Series
Exploring Horses Levels 1—3
Introduction
Have you ever wanted to learn about horses and how to ride them? If so, this is the 4-H project for you!
There are seven sections called Skill Builders. Each Builder will focus on a specific topic. The Skill Builder has activities that will help you learn your mounted and dismounted skills. Once all the Skill Builders have been completed there is a Showcase Challenge that lets you exhibit the skills you have gained.
This project is designed to take a beginning 4-H member 3 years to complete. A more experienced member may challenge the checklists to move through the levels more quickly. Meet with your leader to decide the correct speed for you.
No matter what age you are, or how much experience you have working with horses, you should work through all of the checklists so you are able to move on to the Discover level!
One of the project goals is to make sure riders are safe when practicing both groundwork and riding skills. Each Skill Builder has activities that are labeled by level. Some of them are labeled “any level”, so feel free to fill in those activities too.
Do It
Dig It
Dream It
Learning is 3D!
To help you get the most out of your learning, each project
meeting has the following parts: Dream it! Plan for success
Do it! Hands on learning Dig it! What did you learn?
Meet Equus!
Equus is a smart, safe horse that will appear throughout your manual to give you useful facts and safety tips on working with your horse. Equus is the Latin word for horse. Equus is also the scientific name for the group of animals that includes horses, donkeys and zebras.
This symbol will appear throughout the manual. Check out the website ideas wherever you see it. These links will lead
you to online content to help with your 4-H horse project.
- Draft 2011 -
Table of Contents
Introduction 1
Skill Builder 1 Safety & Stable Management
3
Skill Builder 2 Groundwork
17
Skill Builder 3 Grooming
31
Skill Builder 4 Psychology
45
Skill Builder 5 Health
54
Skill Builder 6 Identification & Confirmation
75
Skill Builder 7 Riding
91
Skills Checklists 119
Portfolio & Showcase pages 130
Patterns 124
What Skills Will You Learn?
Each section or Skill Builder (or Builder) in this project has activities that will help your project group learn to do by doing while learning new skills and having fun! To complete this project, you must: Complete the activities in each Builder OR a similar activity that focuses on the same skills, as you and your leader may plan other activities. Plan and complete the Showcase Challenge. Complete the Portfolio Page. Participate in your club’s Achievement (See the inside back cover for more in-
formation about 4-H Achievements).
How to use your Checklists
Keep your checklists up-to-date. Your instructor or leader will initial the grey area once you have completed a skill. Review each level with your leader to determine which skills you have already mas-tered and highlight the ones you are working on. Keep going back and reviewing the lists. You may work on more than one level at a time and each level builds upon the previous level, but remember: you must complete Level 3 in “Exploring Horses” before moving on to Discovering Horses.
Throughout the Skill Builders, you will see words in CAPITALS. These words are defined in the glos-sary section. At the back of the project book. 4-H Introduction Take a look at the name of “4-H”. Have you ever thought about what 4-H stands for? Take a guess. _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ 4-H members are 8 – 21 and must take some sort of project (beef, horse, rocketry, woodworking, cooking, etc). 4-H members learn how to have meetings and be leaders. 4-H exists around the world, existing in over 80 countries! The Manitoba 4-H program is based on the Quality Equation Principles of Quality People, Quality Experiences, and Quality Projects. 4-H has a pledge and motto which are said at the beginning of each meeting and other special events. 4-H PLEDGE “I pledge….. My HEAD to clearer thinking, My HEART to greater loyalty, My HANDS to larger service, My HEALTH to better living, For My Club, My Community, and My Country.”
4-H MOTTO “Learn to do by doing.”
Equus says…
I’ll give you a hint: 4-H stands for four things that begin with the letter H.
3
Equus says…
Safety is everyone’s responsibility! Safety is the most important activity when handling horses. You must be careful around even the quietest horse. If you follow simple safety rules, you will have a much smaller chance of getting hurt.
Accidents are predictable and preventable!
Dream It!
Throughout this skill builder, you will learn a number of safety precautions and practices that every horseperson needs to know. There are activities for each level in Exploring Horses meant to help you get the most out of your learning. Your leader will help you decide which activities, if any, you should do this year. Do you know of anyone who has been hurt while working with a horse? Do you think this could have been prevented? In this Skill Builder you will be taught some safety skills to help prevent future EQUINE accidents.
Do it! Reference material for the following activities can be found on pages 23-28 of this manual.
SKILLS CHECKLIST
Skill Builder 1: Safety & Stable Management
Level Members will be able to: Activities
L1 Give 3 safety rules to remember while riding your horse.
Safety True/False
Safe Rider Certificate
Brain Mold
Safety Check List
Blind Spots
Safety True/False
What's Wrong With This
Picture
Safety On The Trail
Safety Fill in the Blanks
Hauling Your Horse
Tying Trap
General Safety
Sense and Safety
L1 Give 3 safety rules to remember when working with your horse on the ground.
All Describe 2 dress rules you should follow for safe riding.
L1 Explain where a horse’s blind spots are and why it is important to know this.
L2 List 3 ways to keep your barn or pasture safe
L3 Name five things that would make your barn or pasture unsafe.
L3 List 3 safety rules to keep in mind on trail ride
All Identify 3 loading/hauling safety rules
4
Safety True or False (Level 1)
Answer each question with a T or F for true of false. For any that are false, discuss why that is.
Safe Rider Certificate (Level 1)
Fill in three safe riding rules you have learned on this Safe Rider certificate.
__ 1. When picking up your horse’s hind feet, it is safer to stand as far away as possible but still be able to clean the HOOF properly.
__ 2. Safety is everyone’s responsibility.
__ 3. It is a good idea to wrap the lead shank around your hand so that the horse can’t get away if it pulls.
__ 4. When leading a horse and you want to turn, pull it around you because it is easier than pushing it away from you.
__ 5. Do not mount your horse in a barn.
Safe Rider
This certificate is being awarded to _________________________________.
They have displayed safe horseback riding practices by
knowing the following three safety rules:
1. ____________________________________________________________
2. ____________________________________________________________
3. ____________________________________________________________
5
Brain Mold (Level 1)
Your leader will help you create two ‘brain molds’ from gelatin, and experiment with it. When you are done, reflect on the results by answering the following questions. 1. What happened when your ‘brain’ hit the ground in a baseball
cap? 2. What happened when your ‘brain’ hit the ground in the
helmet? 3. What does this demonstrate about helmet safety? 4. Would you be more likely to wear a helmet now? Note: Be very careful, on the step ladder and take turns.
Equus says…
Always remember to tie your horses on opposite sides of the trailer when one of them is more dominant, and may kick the other one to keep it away from their food. If the sun is shining on one side of the trailer, and you don’t want to tie your horse there, try to keep the less dominant horse far out of reach of the dominant one.
Safety Check List (Level 2) Many cuts and bruises happen because the horse’s living area is not a safe area. Loose boards, nails sticking out of stalls, wire lying about – any of these can lead to an accident. Check off each item on the safety list after looking over your horse’s living area.
All TACK is in good repair and has been carefully put away.
Shovels and forks are stored in a safe place.
No abandoned machinery is left sitting where a horse could be injured.
Fences, gates and doors are in good repair.
Enough lighting in the barn or other housing.
No nails, spikes, etc. sticking out on the stalls or fences.
No slippery floors or depressions in aisles or stalls.(N/A if you don’t have a barn.)
Plenty of bedding in the stall or housing.
A FIRST AID kit is on hand.
“No smoking” signs are posted where appropriate.
All gates can be securely locked to prevent animals from escaping.
Emergency phone numbers are posted in the barn, TACK shed or near the phone.
No holes for your horse to trip in. Did you leave any items unchecked? Should you change anything to make your horse’s “home” safer?
6
Blind Spots (Level 1)
Using a medium sized soft ball play this game with a partner to learn more about blind spots. Start this activity by standing straight across from each other. And look straight forward. Toss the ball gently to your partner. After the first toss, one of you will move a few steps to the right or left, and continue looking straight forward. Toss the ball again. Repeat this several times.
Eventually after many tosses and moves to the side, you will no longer be able to catch the ball because you won’t be able to see it. This demonstrates the concept of a blind spot for your horse.
Safety True or False (Level 2)
Complete the following true or false questions about safety. When you are done, your group and your leader will discuss why these are important safety rules to remember.
___ If you are hauling one horse, it should be loaded on the right side of the trailer.
___ You should tie your horse before you fasten the butt chain.
___ When you unload, you should untie your horse before you unfasten the butt chain.
___ Horses working at slower GAITS are given priority on the outside track.
___ When riders are working at the same gait in different directions, those riding on the right rein are given priority for using the outside track.
___ If you must stop to adjust equipment, stop your horse in a corner of the arena.
___ If you are on a trail ride and somebody has to stop, everyone should stop.
___ When you are crossing a highway, riders should be strung out.
7
What’s Wrong With This Picture? (Level 2)
There are several things wrong with this picture. How many can you find and circle? Discuss with your group why they are dangerous.
Safety On The Trail (All Levels)
Describe three safety rules to keep in mind while on a trail ride. What are some good items to bring along with you? Why would you want to bring these items?
Go home and make a mini “Trail Pack” containing the things you will need on a trail ride. Bring it to your next meeting and share it with the group.
8
Hauling Your Horse (All Levels) Your leader will have you watch a demonstration of loading a horse into a trailer. Watch for the following: How has the handler checked to see that the horse is safe?
Does the handler have an escape route?
What did the handler check on the trailer?
Has the handler loaded the horse so that the
handler stays safe?
What things did the handler do properly once in
the trailer?
Safety Fill in the Blanks (Level 3)
1. Safety is ________________responsibility.
2. If horses see sudden movement without seeing the cause of it, they may
_______________.
3. When approaching a horse, always walk towards the ____________________.
4. Always let a horse know you are approaching by ___________________ to it.
5. Horses have ________________ blind spots.
6. When leading a horse, walk between the ________________ and the
___________________.
7. When leading, your hand should be ___________ inches down from the snap.
8. When grooming, always keep a ________________ on the horse.
9. When riding, your footwear needs to have a _______________.
10. _______________ prevent rope burn.
11. You should keep this tool handy at all times when working with horses:
__________________.
12. When releasing your horse into the pen or pasture, it should be facing the
________________.
13. _______________________________is the leading cause of death in riding accidents.
14. Most riders are injured when riding for ____________________________.
15. ______________________________ that results in a horse falling leads the injury
list.
9
Tying Trap (Level 1)
There are many things that are unsafe in this picture. Circle the things that are dangerous . With your project group, discuss why one of the items you circled is dangerous or doesn’t belong.
10
Sense and Safety
In this unit, you have learned a lot about how to be safe when working with horses. Discuss any changes you have made to the way you handle your own horse after working through this safety unit. Choose one of the following skills and demonstrate it to your group. After demonstrating it to your group, explain it to a family member or friend who does not own a horse so that they understand it.
Demonstrate how to: walk up to a horse position yourself when you lead a horse hold a lead shank or rope lead and turn a horse
Dig it!
General Safety In your project group discuss:
A. What do you think is the safest way to walk behind a horse that may not know you are there? B. How should you turn a horse loose in:
A box stall
A pasture
C. Is it safe to duck under the front of a tied horse to get to the other side? Why or why not?
D. Do you wear a helmet when you ride? � Never � Sometimes � Always Why or why not? Do you feel you are making the correct decision? Do you know anyone whose health has been affected by wearing or not wearing a helmet?
11
Safety & Stable Management Reference Section: To be safe when you are handling or riding your horse:
Start with a safe attitude Dress properly Use safe equipment Use sensible horse-handling methods
1. Do not run around horses. If horses see sudden movement without seeing
the cause of it, they may kick, strike or bolt, causing injury.
2. When approaching a horse, always walk toward the shoulder; never from behind or ahead.
Even in a stall, try to approach towards the shoulder. Always let a horse know you are
approaching by talking to it.
3. Horses have three blind spots where they can’t see you; directly between both eyes extending
out approximately 10 inches (25 cm.), directly behind them and under their head. Their hips
also block their vision of their rump area. Speaking to your horse lets it know where you are
at all times.
4. Lead a horse from the left side, walking between the head and shoulder. This position gives
you the best control while maintaining optimum safety. Place your right hand approx. 6 inches
(15 cm.) down the shank, carry any excess lead rope in your left hand.
5. Never wrap the reins or lead shank around your hand or any part of your body so that if the horse were to bolt it would not wrap dangerously around you.
6. When leading a horse, turn it to the right (away from you) so it won’t step on you. Push its
head to the right using the lead shank, held in your right hand, and as you turn stay between
its head and shoulder.
7. When the horse is tied do not go under the neck of a horse to get to the other side. If you
do, you are passing through a blind spot and may frighten the horse. Go around the
hindquarters, talk to your horse and keep hand contact on the horse as you walk around, so
that it knows it’s you when you pass through its blind spot. The closer you stand to a horse,
the less likely you are to be injured if kicked. You may be shoved away, but not badly hurt.
8. When grooming the underside of a horse or working on the legs or feet, never sit or kneel.
Always keep your feet on the ground and a hand on the horse so you can react quickly if
needed. While handling or grooming do not drop grooming
tools or equipment near the horse. Place them away from
the horse so you will not trip on them, or they will not be stepped on by the horse.
9. When you are working around horses, wear protective
footwear. Do not wear runners, thongs or go barefoot.
When riding, always wear footwear with a heel. Gloves will
help prevent rope burn. Do not wear anything that dangles
when working with horses.
12
10. Tying Your Horse: When you tie your horse, tie it to a secure object (like a fence
post secured in the ground) that will not break or move if the horse pulls back.
Never tie a horse to the rail of a fence. It may break or the nails may pull out if the
horse pulls back. If possible, never tie below the level of the horses withers. Tie
your horse, using a quick release knot. Tie the shank to the post so that it is short
enough that your horse can not get a leg over the rope. Never tie a horse with
reins. Always use a lead shank. 11. Keep a pocket knife handy where you tie your horse and in the
horse trailer so that if you ever need to release your horse from its
lead shank and you are unable to untie it, you can cut it. This may
be necessary if a horse is frightened and pulls too hard on the lead
shank.
12. When working around your horse (grooming, washing, saddling, and so on) maintain at least 90
degrees of space between your horse and any solid objects (fence or wall). Teach your horse to
stand still at a 90 degree angle to where it is tied.
13. Avoid accidents by practicing safe management procedures. Keep all equipment in good repair.
Maintain clean aisles and well constructed stalls and fences. Check equipment regularly to
ensure a safe experience every time.
14. If releasing your horse into a stall or field turn the horse around to face the door or gate before letting it go. Respect your horse’s instincts. Any horse no matter how calm has a first
INSTINCT for survival. Try to anticipate situations that may make him nervous, and get him
used to them. Get to know you and your horse’s strengths and weaknesses, and get help from a
professional when you need it.
Helmets
Your club may have rules regarding the wearing of a helmet. The decision to wear helmets is an issue of personal safety. It is the responsibility of the rider and parent/guardian to ensure the proper use and fit of helmets. Some events or riding establishments have compulsory rules that require riders to wear helmets. Most events (including Western events) allow and even encourage the use of a helmet rather than a Western hat.
Here are some things to consider, when making the decision whether or not to wear a helmet when you ride:
head injury is the leading cause of death from riding accidents;
compared to injuries from other childhood activities, riding injuries are severe;
girls aged 10-14 are in the highest risk group;
most riders who died from head injuries were not wearing helmets
most injuries are farm kids riding around for fun
13
Safety Sense
Below are some important horse safety rules.
Always speak to your horse before approaching or touching him.
A red ribbon tied on a tail indicates a kicker! Keep back!
When riding, wear boots with proper heels to prevent your feet from slipping through the stirrups.
When saddling your horse, keep your feet well BELL BOOTS and in in the clear. Reach forward to saddle your horse. Be sure to wear boots!
Never wrap the lead strap, halter shank, or reins around your hand, wrist, or body.
When your horse is frightened and tries to run, turn him in a circle until he stops.
When walking beside your horse, use a long lead strap and both hands. Hold the excess lead strap into a figure eight style and hold it in your left hand while your right hand is held fairly close to the horse’s head. If the horse rears up, release the hand nearest the halter.
Slow down when riding on rough ground or in deep sand, mud, ice or snow or on pavement. Always be cautious where there is any danger of falling or slipping.
Never tie your horse by the reins, as he may pull back and break the reins and tie post
Know your horse’s temperament and how he usually reacts to different situations. No matter what happens, control your temperament. Let your horse know that you are a firm, kind master.
14
The Riding Arena
An arena is a fenced or covered rectangular area set aside for training and riding horses. When it is outdoors it may be called a riding ring. The “track or rail ” is the part of the arena where the horses normally work. The outside track follows the walls or fence and the inside track is about 3 metres inside of the outside track. When you are riding on the track with your right side towards the centre of the arena, you are on the right rein. When you are riding with your left side towards the centre of the arena, you are on the left rein.
Riding Arena Rules
When riding in an arena with other riders it can become like a busy highway. It is important that you follow some basic rules to help keep the traffic flowing and to prevent accidents.
1. Riders must close the gates behind them when they enter or exit the arena in order to ensure that horses will not bolt out of the arena. It is a good idea for riders to DISMOUNT and lead their horses through the gate.
2. Be aware of others around you. Be careful not to cut anyone off. 3. Keep at least one HORSE LENGTH between riders. The rider following another should be able
to see the heels of the horse in front of him. Keep out of bunches. 4. Horses moving slower are given priority for using the outside track. Riders working faster
must move to the inside track. When riders are working in different directions, those riding on the left rein are given priority for using the outside track. Those working on the right rein would move to the inside track. This rule means riders know they will pass oncoming riders, left shoulder to left shoulder.
5. When working at the WALK, a rider should use the outside track to keep out of the way of faster horses, unless all of the horses are traveling at a WALK.
6. If you have to stop for any reason, move to the centre of the arena. 7. If you must stop on the rail or slow your horse down, make sure there is space behind you for
riders to respond to your transition. 8. When exiting the arena, do not rush. Leave the arena at a WALK, in single file.
15
Hauling Your Horse
Most 4-H members live some distance apart. This means that to have a group riding activity, the horses need to be transported. To avoid trailering problems, make sure that everything is in good shape. Regularly check your lights, hitch, ramp, tires and trailer flooring. Safety Guidelines
1. Try to distribute the weight evenly. If you are hauling only one horse, it is safest to load it on the left side.
2. If your horse cannot be “sent” into a trailer with a divider, you should lead your horse into the left side while you stand on the right side of the divider and vice versa.
3. It is not a safe practice to walk in front of your horse and lead it in. Never do this if there is no exit or escape door.
4. When you have loaded the horse, fasten the butt bar or chain before you tie the horse.(When you are unloading, do the reverse. Always untie the horse before you open the door. or unlatch the butt bar or chain. Ease the bar/chain down carefully so you do not bump your horse’s legs.)
5. If you tie the horse in the trailer, use a quick release knot or panic snap. Allow enough length of rope that the horse can move its head to balance.
6. Double check that the doors are closed securely and fastened correctly. 7. Double check all connections such as the hitch, the signal and brake lights and the safety
chains. 8. If you are hauling your horse a long distance you should stop and WALK your horse after four
hours of driving. 9. Use shipping boots to protect your horse’s legs and a tail wrap to prevent it from rubbing its
tail.
Equus says…
Learn how to prevent accidents before they happen.
16
Other Trailering Safety Concerns: Tying (Outside) -Learn to tie your horse with the proper length of lead shank so that it can’t caught on door handles or other things. Hay Nets - Tie up high with the bottom tied up so it will not drop down to leg level as the horse eats. Do not over fill the net or use hay with many stiff stems. Tie dangling ends out of the way.
Window - Tie the horse so it cannot put its head out the window when travelling. If windows are wide or large, use heavy metal screening or metal bars over the window so it can be opened safely. Safety on the Trail
1. Have a designated lead rider (trail boss) and someone to bring up the rear. 2. Wait until everyone is mounted before starting the trail ride. If someone needs to stop, to
adjust equipment etc., have everyone stop. This will prevent runaways as horses left behind may try to catch up to horses that have continued on ahead.
3. Always allow one HORSE LENGTH or more between yourself and the next rider. 4. When crossing roads, have everyone cross when the traffic is clear. 5. When crossing streams or rivers, be careful to cross where it is shallow and safe. Have
someone remain behind to help any horses through that may not want to go. 6. If you are riding and get caught in a thunderstorm, avoid riding under trees, on hills or along
streambeds. 7. Remember to bring along a halter and tie your horse in a safe place if you need to stop for
awhile, a HOOF pick in case a painful object gets stuck in your horse’s HOOF, a bottle of water, bug spray, a whistle in case of emergency situations, and a lasso or 22 ft rope to use in case of emergency situations.
8. Be sure that you tell someone else who is not coming on the ride where you are going, and when you expect to return.
17
Skill Builder 2: Groundwork
SKILLS CHECKLIST
Dream it!
Much of the activity in this skill builder will take place outside, with your horse. The Do It! activities included here will help you remember what your instructor has taught you outside.
Do it!
Getting Started (All Levels)
Your leader will have your group watch a video or a live demonstration of how to catch and halter your horse. Now, using your own halter show your leader how to get it ready before you catch your horse. Catch your horse and halter it. Be sure to adjust the halter properly.
Equus says...
Always approach a horse calmly, confidently, carefully and avoid sudden movements. Speak to them before approaching and never from behind as it may not see you and you may get kicked.
Level Required Skill Activities
L1 Catch and halter your horse safely. Getting Started
Knotty
Show Me
Practice Patterns
Animal Safety Tic Tac Toe
Cross Tying
Showmanship Multi Choice
The Quarters
Safe Leading
L1 Explain how a halter should fit and why.
L1 Lead your horse safely at a WALK, turn right, stop and BACK up.
L1 Lead around in a large circle (20 m) using at least 4 markers.
L1 Lead your horse across 2 DIAGONAL lines of the riding area.
L1 Demonstrate and explain how and where to tie your horse using a quick release knot.
L1 Demonstrate how your horse moves sideways away from pressure by cueing with your hand while the horse is tied.
L2
Demonstrate leading at the WALK, trot, right turn, emergency left turn, halt and more fluid BACK up.
L2 Demonstrate and explain how to properly cross-tie your horse.
L2 Demonstrate how your horse moves sideways away from pressure by cueing with your hand while you are holding him.
L3
Demonstrate where to stand when holding your horse when someone else is working with it (de-worming, HOOF trim). Explain why this is important for the safety for yourself AND the other person (FARRIER, vet).
L3 Demonstrate how to trot out, square and pose for CONFORMATION analysis or vet inspection.
18
Knotty (All levels)
Your leader will show you how to tie a quick release knot. Practice tying a quick release knot until you can do it correctly and quickly. What do you need to remember?
Describe a dangerous situation that you know of or imagine one in which it was a very good thing that a horse was tied with a quick-release knot. Describe what happened . What could have kept this from happening
Show Me (All levels)
Your leader will invite a senior member or experienced show person to demonstrate showmanship preparation and patterns. Be sure to watch how they move around the horse, how they set up the horse and where they stand. Now it’s your turn to work through a pattern. How did it go? What should you remember next time?
Practice Patterns (All levels)
Ask your project leader or search on the Internet for practice showmanship patterns.
This website has many practice patterns for showmanship and riding events.
Try working through one of the patterns with your horse. Have someone watch you or video you to look for what you do well and what you need to work on.
Animal Safety Tic-Tac-Toe (Level 1)
At your project group meeting or club meeting, play a game of animal safety tic tac toe. Your leader has all the rules and the questions. How well did you do? Do you remember all of the animal safety rules?
When you set up in a group, it should look like this: You can also play this game with a partner using paper and pen on an x’s and o’s grid.
http://www.showhorsepromotions.com/
19
Cross Tying
Your leader will arrange a demonstration of cross tying. Wile you watch, think of reasons someone may choose to cross tie their horse. Should the horse be able to move his head fully from side to side in cross ties? Should the lead ropes be very loose, or fairly snug? What types of horses are normally cross tied? (Example quiet horses, spirited
horses)
Showmanship Multiple Choice (Level 3)
1. When asking your horse to set up: a. Pick up his feet to place them. b. You should use only the lead shank. c. You can pull on the halter d. You may point your toe at the horse’s feet to
assist moving them.
2. When you are asked to turn your horse, you should always turn your horse:
a. To the right. b. To the left. c. In a circle. d. Towards you.
3. Always complete your turns: a. Quickly b. Slowly c. In a large circle d. None of the above.
4. You should enter the show ring: a. At a slow WALK. b. At the jog/trot. c. At the LOPE. d. At an alert WALK.
5. When showing your horse, you should: a. Look at the crowd. b. Look at your feet. c. Look ahead, eyes up. d. Talk to your neighbours.
6. In a showmanship class, your halter:
a. Doesn’t matter b. Should be the correct size and adjusted to fit. c. Must be expensive. d. Should be a bright color.
7. As a showmanship competitor, you should: a. Train your horse to set up quickly. b. Move easily and smoothly. c. Move so the judge can have a clear view of
your horse. d. All of the above.
8. When you line up, you should: a. Line up as close as possible to the next horse. b. Set your horse up quickly and look at the
judge. c. Stand on the right side of the horse. d. None of the above.
Showring
20
Dig it!
The Quarters
Discuss with your leader and your project groups why knowing the quarter system is important even if you don’t show your horse.
Safe Leading
Your leader has an activity for your group to do that will allow you to discover whether or not you have soft hands and if you can communicate properly with
your ‘horse’. When you are done the activity, answer the following questions. What did you discover? Did your handler ask gently? Was your handler patient and give you time to respond before asking again? How did it feel to do this activity
21
Optional Craft:
Leather Decorated Halter
Here is a simple and fun project that you can do with a few tools. As you get more familiar with working with leather, you can become more creative. These also make excellent gifts for friends and family. You can get everything you need at a local or mail order leather store. Search the internet for contact information and an online catalog. Your leader can sign up as a 4-H club leader and you will receive the club discount and they will ship your order very quickly. Watch the sale flyers for project supplies. You can get very good deals in these flyers. Project Supplies, possible suppliers and approximate costs: 1 nylon halter Leather sewing awl remove store names Waxed leather thread Leather strip the same size as the noseband (You can buy a large piece of 6-8 oz leather (6-8 sq feet) for under $25) Decorative leather rivets or conchos, if desired (Tandy leather or fabric stores) Leather stamps, if desired Leather protector
1. Cut the leather to match the noseband. You will hand sew this with the awl to the noseband AFTER decorating it.
2. If you are going to tool it with leather stamps or tools, you will need to ‘case’ the leather…get it wet enough to pound the tools into it. This means this project will take 2 evenings instead of 1 evening. You should search online or get some help from an experienced leather worker for this.
3. Decorate with tooling, rhinestone rivets and/or conchos. You may also use permanent markers to paint designs.
4. Once dry, you may stain the leather if desired. 5. Hand-sew the leather across the noseband with the awl. There should be directions with the
awl. The leather may need trimming if you had to case it since getting it wet often stretches the leather.
6. Coat the leather with a protector. 7. Enjoy!
Note: Once you are comfortable with this type of halter, perhaps you could try making a bronc halter noseband.
22
Groundwork Reference Section:
Approaching A Horse
When you walk up to your horse it will respond to how you move and your voice…in other words, your body language. Horses can see in front or behind themselves, except in their blind spots. Always approach from an angle where he can see you. Avoid sudden movements
Speak quietly so that he knows you are there. When you are close enough give him a gentle pat on
the shoulder or neck When a horse is cornered and cannot run, his first IN-
STINCT is to kick, so never surprise him. Keep close to his body so there is LESS chance of you
being kicked. Always work around a horse that is tied up. Never go
over or under the lead rope.
Halters and Lead Ropes
Halters come in many sizes and styles. Some of these include rope halters, nylon web halters and leather halters. Rope halters are often used for younger horses or horses that may pull.
Rope halters designed for cattle should never be used on a horse since any pull on the lead rope causes a pulling down under the jaw and over the head.
Lead ropes used for everyday should not have a chain on them. Chains are common on lead ropes used for showing, but are neither strong enough nor safe enough for daily use.
Halter Care Leather products should be cleaned with saddle soap and oiled regularly. Cotton rope halters may shrink when wet or rot if not properly dried.
Equus says...
A nervous handler causes a nervous
unsafe horse.
23
Haltering A Horse
Halters should not be left on horses. Halters may catch on fences, brush or branches and cause the horse to panic and get injured.
If halters are left on a loose horse they must be checked daily.
Before you approach your horse to catch it, prepare the halter by: Unbuckling the crownpiece. Folding the lead rope in half and holding it over your left arm, making sure the end is not
dragging where it can trip you. Slipping your left hand through the bottom of the noseband and resting the halter on your
wrist.
Reach out with your right hand to touch the horse 1. Approach your horse towards the left (near) shoulder and
talk to it. 2. Stroke your horse and approach the head but don’t go past
it. You may need to hold your horse steady with your right hand under its neck.
3. Place your left hand under your horse’s neck and your right hand over its neck. Reach with your right hand to grasp the lead rope you are holding over your left arm and pull the lead rope over your horse’s neck. Move the lead rope to just behind the ears of your horse.
4. To hold the lead rope in place, wrap its loose end around the part of the lead rope attached to the halter.
5. Now hold the crownpiece of the halter in your left hand and reach under your horse’s neck and place your right hand over its neck.
6. Grab the crownpiece with your right hand and move the left hand to the left check buckle, holding your horse steady with your right arm.
7. Slowly snag your horse’s nose by using your left hand to maneuver the halter. 8. Pull the halter up in place and buckle the crownpiece and secure. 9. Slide the lead rope off your horse’s neck. 10. Hold the lead rope with your right hand, about 12 cm (six inches) from the halter and fold any
extra length into your left hand.
Safety Tip: If catching a horse in a stall, close the gate behind you but do NOT latch it. Leaving it unlatched means that if something happens that you must leave the stall in a hurry you can do so quickly and safely.
http://www.ehow.com/video_2350168_halter-horse-before-grooming.html
24
Rope Halters
You may chose to use a rope halter instead of a leather halter.
This pictures show the parts of a rope halter.
Fastening a Rope Halter
This picture shows the correct way to fasten the rope halter.
Be sure to fasten the later AROUND the EYE, not above it.
Fitting A Halter
Make sure the halter is the right size for your horse’s head and fits it correctly. A halter that is too big will be dangerous and one that is too small will rub and irritate your horse. Adjusting the halter to fit properly will normally require simply adjusting the crownpiece.
A halter is correctly adjusted and fits if: 1.There is a two finger (sideways) clearance between the metal buckles on the noseband and the cheekbones. 2.You can fit two fingers sideways between the noseband and the nose. 3.You can fit four fingers (sideways) under the throatlatch.
Proper fit of a rope halter.
25
Leading A Horse
Horses walking on top of the handler during leading are one of the biggest and most common problems.
The horse should stay back. A horse should learn from the very beginning that the handler has an area of personal space in which he is never allowed to enter unless asked.
It is safest to lead a horse from the near (left) side. Always lead with a halter and shank because they provide better control. It is unsafe to lead a horse by just the halter or with just a rope around the neck. 1. Hold the lead rope with your right hand, approximately 12 cm (six
inches) from the halter. Do not hold the chain if there is one on the shank.
2. The remaining length of the lead is folded and held neatly and safely in the left hand. Make sure there is not a sagging loop in the lead shank that hangs below your knees. Never coil excess lead shank around your hands.
3. Lead the horse from its left side, positioning yourself between its head and shoulders. Move with the horse, do not drag it. The ears and eyes of your horse tell you what it may be thinking, so it is important to watch the head as you lead a horse.
4. To move a horse forward, you may give the verbal command “WALK”. Give the horse a moment to understand the command, then walk forward yourself. Don’t look at the horse as you move it forward, as this will often cause it to resist moving.
5. If the horse won’t move, then try pushing it one step sideways before moving forward.
6. Don’t lead the horse from behind the shoulder as you will have less control and could possibly be kicked.
7. To halt your horse, give a verbal command “whoa” and apply pressure on the halter back towards the horse’s chest. If it fails to stop, give a stronger hand aid.
8. To BACK a horse, face the direction that you want the horse to move. Never stand directly in front of it as you could get injured. Don’t change hands on the shank. Give a verbal command to “BACK” and apply slight pressure on the halter, on a give and take basis, towards the horse’s chest. Walk with the horse as it BACKs.
9. To turn a horse to the right, push the horse’s head to the right so that the horse is forced to turn on its haunches. For safety reasons, horses should always be turned to the right (away from you). This will prevent you from being stepped on or bumped by your horse if it is frightened while turning. 10. Sometimes it may be necessary to turn your horse to the left. To do this safely, take the lead shank in your left hand. Place your right hand on the ribs of your horse and, as you turn the horse’s head towards you, apply pressure on the ribs to push his ribs and hind quarter away and keep your horse from stepping on you. Correctly turning to the left is an acceptable way to regain control of a horse that is excited or upset.
26
When leading a horse through a doorway, make sure the door is open and will not close as you move through it. Slow down to a WALK and move ahead of your horse, but not directly in front of it. Walk calmly through the door then go back to your position at the horse’s shoulder.
If you have a aged horse that does not want to lead, be sure that you walk beside it. Walking in front of it and looking at the horse while leading it may make the horse more resistant to moving forward and can be dangerous. Have someone assist you by standing to the side of the horse and encouraging it to walk forward with a long whip, if necessary.
Tying Your Horse
Learn to tie the quick release knot correctly. Use it EVERY time you tie your horse. Visit the website below for an instructional video on tying a proper quick release know.
http://www.youtube.com/watchzvye055cEOI
Equus says…
Don’t!
When leading your horse...
Safety Tip: You should tie a horse only with a halter NEVER with a bridle or a bit. Also, make sure that they are far enough away from other horses that they might fight with.
Do!
27
Tying to a Post
Find a strong, secure object such as a post to tie your horse to.
Never tie your horse to wire or anything that may pull loose.
Tie your horse no lower than shoulder height.
Use a quick release knot. A length of 2 feet between the horse and
the post is usually considered safe. The rope snap should be attached to the
bottom ring of the halter noseband, not on the sides of the halter.
Cross Tying
Cross ties are another common way to secure a horse. Cross ties are usually two ropes tied high up on each side of the walkway in the stable. Each rope usually has a snap or clip to attach to the SIDE rings of the halter noseband.
Cross ties should be adjusted so that the horse can move his head from side to side about 8 inches (16 cm) and can move backwards and forwards one step.
Horses who do not tie well to a post or who have never been tied in cross ties may become upset so be careful.
Moving Your Horse Sideways from the Ground (Dismounted)
Never get into a small space between a horse and a solid object such as a fence. We should be able to move the horse that is tied.
1. Get the horse’s attention. You will know you do if the ear on the side you are on is focused on you.
2. When safe for you to do so, a verbal command and light touch should move the desired part. Remember to speak “horse”.
3. If the horse does not respond by moving, DO NOT PUSH – but instead ask your horse to move over by apply steady pressure using all your fingers and gradually increase this pressure until the horse moves. At first just touch lightly and then apply more pressure gradually until the horse moves. Remember to reward them for the slightest movement, so then eventually you will only have to touch them lightly and they will respond. Also it is important to use steady pressure and do not jab at the horse as this is ineffective and will not respond in your horse learning to move away from the lightest pressure.
Safety Tip
It is a good idea to carry a pocket knife with you when working with horses. It is possible you may need to cut a rope to free a trapped horse.
28
Showmanship
This section has a lot of information to help you prepare to show a horse in a halter or showmanship class, but some of it, such as The Quarters and Leading, is important for ALL horse handlers to know.
Showing a horse at halter is an easy way to start showing. At home, you can use the same skills when taking pictures or showing your horse to friends or possible buyers. It demonstrates your handling skills and the training of the horse.
Leading:
Proper leading at all times keeps you safe and helps your horse understand that you are the leader. 1. Lead on the left side of your horse with the lead shank held 8-12 inches (20 - 30 cm) from the
halter. 2. Hold the excess lead shank in a figure eight or a large circular coil for safety. 3. Stay halfway between the horse’s head and shoulder. 4. Your horse should move easily with you. 5. All turns are made to the right with the EXHIBITOR walking around the horse.
Setting Up:
This activity teaches your horse obedience while showing off its good looks! 1. The horse should set up quickly, stand squarely and move backwards and forwards easily. (This
takes a great deal of practice!) 2. The horse must be trained to pose by the use of the lead shank and soft voice commands, as you
cannot touch its legs. 3. To change a back leg move the body accordingly forwards or backwards. 4. To change a foreleg, turn the head slightly in the opposite direction and shift the weight of the body
accordingly. Turning the head slightly forces the weight onto the leg that is in position, ‘freezing’ it in place and freeing the other leg for movement.
5. This is training that must be done at home long before the show. 6. In halter showmanship, the EXHIBITOR is expected to move from side to side freely. This is safe
only if you have trained your horse well at home. 7. When the judge is viewing your horse, it is permissible for you to move between the judge and the
horse, although you should only block his view momentarily as you move to the opposite side. You should step quickly and quietly.
The Quarters:
This system of showmanship is easy to remember. Although the terms judge and EXHIBITOR are used, YOU are the EXHIBITOR (even if you are at home) and the judge might be a vet or FARRIER or anyone else looking at your horse. It is important to hold your horse as described because it keeps the other person safe. 1. When the judge is viewing the front half of the horse, the EXHIBITOR should be on the opposite
side. 2. When the judge is viewing the rear half, the EXHIBITOR should be on the same side. Divide the horse into four sections. A, B, C, and D. (See Next Page) The reason for this system is so that if the horse ever began to act up, the handler would be in the
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p8J8KzfOZls Here is a helpful video to show the proper way to complete a showmanship pat-
29
Diagram #1 When the judge is viewing the front of the horse in section A or B, the EXHIBITOR should be on the opposite side. This gives the judge a clear view of the horse.
Diagram #2 The judge is now viewing the rear of the horse, section D. The EXHIBITOR moves to the same side as the judge.
Diagram #3 While the judge is viewing the horse from the direct rear, the EXHIBITOR maintains his po-sition.
Diagram #4 When the judge moves into section C, crossing over the imaginary line directly behind the horse, the EXHIBITOR moves to the same side of the horse as the judge.
Diagram #5 Until the judge crosses over the imaginary line, the EXHIBITOR remains on the same side of the horse as the judge.
Diagram #6 As the judge move into section B, the EXHIBITOR moves to the opposite side to avoid obstructing the view of the judge.
30
The Horse’s Appearance:
1. The hair coat should be smooth and glossy. 2. The horse should show hard, rippling muscles and have a clean healthy
appearance. 3. It should be alert. 4. The feet should be clean and trimmed. 5. The mane and tail should be trimmed and combed depending on the breed style. 6. Have all your clipping and trimming freshly done. 7. The halter should be clean and fit the horse.
Exhibitor’s Appearance:
1. The EXHIBITOR should wear suitable Western or English attire, including a western hat or English helmet (or riding helmet as required or preferred), western long sleeved shirt or appropriate English jacket, long pants/ jeans or breeches/jodhpurs and western boots or English paddock boots with half chaps or tall boots. A vest or jacket may also be worn. In Western attire. Check the rules at each show as some may allow exhibitors choice of attire, English or Western, or may only allow one or the other.
2. Your hat should fit well, be clean and be shaped properly. 3. All clothing should be clean and well pressed. 4. Boots should be clean and shiny.
A neat, well-presented EXHIBITOR and a shining horse will make an outstanding entry in any showmanship/halter class.
In the Show Ring:
1. Be on time! Check to see if a pattern has been posted. 2. If no pattern is posted, enter the ring at the direction of the ring steward and follow directions. 3. When asked to line up, enter the line from the rear. 4. Line up evenly with the others and leave some space on either side of your horse. Do not crowd
others! 5. Set your horse up quickly. 6. Keep one eye on the judge and one on the horse. You should always know where the judge is.
This is necessary because it affects which side of the horse you stand on and how alert your horse should be.
7. If you are instructed to line up head to tail be sure to leave one HORSE LENGTH between you and the horse in front of you to avoid being kicked.
8. No matter where the judge is standing, always lead or back your horse from the left side. 9. Anytime your horse has to stop and stand, square up your horse’s feet. 10. Don’t overshow your horse. When the judge is looking at other horses, allow your horse to
stand if it is posed reasonably well.
Showmanship is a class that requires practice and patience. Both you and your horse must be physically fit. Practice leading correctly and setting your horse up quickly. A proper set up should only take a few seconds! A few minutes of practice each day will make you and your horse a confident
Equus says… In showmanship classes the horse is not judged on CONFORMATION. The class is judged on the handler (exhibitor) and grooming of the horse. Always remember to SMILE when showing your horse. The judge is always watching you, and if they can see that you are having fun, it may have a positive effect on your score!
31
Skill Builder 3: Grooming
SKILLS CHECKLIST
Dream it!
Regular grooming helps to make sure your horse is healthy and comfortable. Horses are generally groomed before being worked, and are usually groomed and cleaned up after a workout as well. In this skill builder, you will learn the importance of grooming, grooming tools, and how to use them.
Do it!
Grooming Kit (Level 1)
Your leader will bring a grooming kit to the meeting, containing many of the items used to GROOM a horse. Take turns with the other members in your project to pick a tool and tell what it is. Your leader will help you with the one’s that are new to you or you can check the reference section in this skill builder.
Equus says…
Remember to always GROOM your horse before you ride, and pay special attention to areas that will be covered by either saddle or GIRTH. Something could get stuck there and rub them the wrong way. That could result in your horse misbehaving from the discomfort.
Level Required Skill Activities
L1 Identify 5 grooming tools and explain their use. Grooming Kit
TACK Store
Bridle Path
No Foot? No Horse
Looking Your Best
Coloring Foot
Grooming Match
How Pretty You Are!
Picture Me Pretty
A Pedicure
L1 Demonstrate how to use a HOOF pick correctly by cleaning one of your horse’s feet (someone else may hold the foot).
L1 Name the parts of the HOOF
L3 Demonstrate how to pick up and clean all four feet of your horse (smaller members may have some assistance).
L3 Explain and demonstrate extra safety precautions you take while cleaning your horse’s hind feet.
L3 Describe three signs that your horse needs his hooves trimmed.
L3 Explain how to clip a bridle path on a quiet horse.
L2 Demonstrate how to thoroughly GROOM your horse in-cluding cleaning at least two feet (Someone else may hold the feet).
32
Tack Store (Level 1-2)
Cut pictures out of a TACK catalog to create your ideal grooming kit. Glue them on a sheet of loose leaf and include it in your book. include what they are and prices. What kind of container would you use? You can also make a poster to show in the showcase challenge at the end of your manual.
If you prefer, you could create this poster on the computer and copy and paste images from TACK store web sites.
When you have finished your poster, take turns with the other members in your group to identifying how each item is used, what order it is used in, how its used, and why you would use it in that order.
Bridle Path (Level 3)
Your leader will arrange for you to watch a demonstration of trimming a bridle path on a quiet horse. While you are watching take notes of what you need to remember. In your project group discuss these questions: What should you do to stay safe while trimming the bridle path? Describe the steps that you would follow as you trim a bridle path? Why do we trim a bridle path?
Your leader will arrange for you to watch the 4-H HORSEMANSHIP DVD on cleaning a HOOF or for you to watch someone lift and clean their horse’s hooves. Be sure to pay close attention to how they handle the HOOF pick, the safety rules they follow and what to look for when cleaning the HOOF.
Now it’s your turn:
Level 1 – Demonstrate how to use a HOOF pick correctly while cleaning one of your horse’s feet
Level 2 – Demonstrate how to safely clean at least two of your horse’s feet.
Level 3 – Demonstrate how to pick up and clean all four of feet of your horse ( smaller members may have some assistance). Be sure to use and explain the extra safety precautions you should use when cleaning hind feet. While you are cleaning the feet, check for signs that your horse needs his hooves trimmed and tell your leader what you found.
No Foot? No Horse! (All Levels)
33
5. When trimming a bridle path, what part of the horse’s body indicates the amount to trim? ________________________
1. Which brush is used first – a
dandy brush or a body brush? For?
__________________________
__________________________
__________________________
____________________
Looking Your Best (Level 2)
Coloring Foot (Level 1)
Using a green marker, color in the areas of the foot you would clean with a HOOF pick. With a Red marker, color the areas you would not use a HOOF pick on. Why would you not want to use the HOOF pick on the areas you colored red? __________________________________
__________________________
__________________________ __________________________
3. Name 2 reasons for grooming
your horse.
_________________________
_________________________
_________________________
_________________________
2. Why should you be sure to rise well after shampooing your horse? __________________________
__________________________
__________________________
___________________
6. Name a grooming tool that is a spring steel blade with a handle at both ends. ___________________
4. Why did nature give the horse hairs on the inside of the ears? _______________________________
_______________________________
_______________________________
34
Dig it!
Grooming Match
How Pretty You Are!
Think about all the reasons it is important to GROOM your horse regularly. Your leader will give you sticky notes—on each note write one reason for grooming. When everyone in your group has written as many reasons as they can remember — group the sticky notes on a wall or other flat surface. Take turns explaining why these are important reasons. Be sure to Include health concerns.
A hooked implement used to clean the HOOF.
Is made of stiff fibre and is used to remove dust from the skin.
May be used in a circular manner to stimulate circulation and remove mud from the body.
Used after washing to remove excess water.
Used to give your horse a final “polish”.
Two of these are needed – one for the eyes and muzzle and one for soiled areas.
Used to clip fetlock and bridle path.
A soft brush that increases the shine on your horse’s coat by removing dust.
Should never be used on the legs.
Should be washed off after using.
May be applied to the muzzle and eye area.
May be used to control stray hairs.
Word Bank
sponge hoof pick rub rag body brush rubber curry comb sweat scraper
electric clippers metal curry hair spray baby oil dandy brush
35
Picture Me Pretty!
Grooming your horse gives you a chance to spend time with it while it learns to be patient.
On a warm day, bath your horse properly. Make sure you rinse all the soap off.
Trim a bridle path. Trim the guard hairs on its muzzle so they are about 1inch long. If the mane and tail have split ends, you can trim those too.
Clean the feet out. Remove all the bot eggs from the horse’s legs. Take a before and after picture of your horse and place in your book. Describe how it behaved while you were grooming it. Did it stand still? If not, explain what you think will happen if a vet needs to come treat your horse for an injury or illness.
A Pedicure
Observe your FARRIER when he comes to trim your horse. Using the Quarter System that you learned about in the Groundwork section, hold your horse for your FARRIER if it is safe to do so. If not, describe to the person holding the horse the proper place to be as the FARRIER moves from foot to foot.
Ask questions about what the FARRIER is doing. Does your horse have a healthy foot? How often does your FARRIER need to come to keep your horse’s feet as healthy as possible? Explain how important it is to have healthy feet.
Equus says...
Now that you have learned to GROOM your horse or PONY properly, you might want to start keeping some pictures of your 4-H years of it in a nice photo album!
36
Grooming Reference Section:
Why Groom?
Regular grooming:
improves a horse’s appearance helps increase circulation stimulates the oil glands which make the horse’s coat look shiny provides an opportunity to check for injuries, skin irri-tations or other health problems.
The amount of grooming a horse needs will depend on how much you ride and where the horse is kept. A horse that is in a barn and/or blanketed needs to be groomed every day.
Constant handling, grooming and patient care will work wonders to develop trust and confidence be-tween a horse and handler. You will develop a positive relationship and your horse will stand more quietly and safely the more you work with it.
Pasture horses do not need thorough daily grooming because they GROOM themselves. However, every horse should be groomed before and after each ride.
Grooming Kit
Every horse owner should have a grooming kit. A basic kit should contain:
A hoof pick
A plastic or rubber curry comb
A dandy brush (has fairly long, stiff bristles)
A body brush (softer bristles)
Two sponges or two washing rags - in different colours for the different ends of the horse
A long comb (not metal)
A shedding blade (used to help remove winter hair or use the backside to scrape away water after bathing a horse).
Grooming cloth
How to Groom
When grooming a horse, start at the top of his neck and work your way to his rear, then switch sides and repeat. Make sure your horse or PONY is safely tied.
On the next page, you will find a chart that lists the names and proper use of each tool you should have in your grooming kit.
37
Rubber Curry
Comb
Dandy Brush
After the rubber curry combs lifts the dirt to the surface, use the dandy brush to flick the dirt away. Use this as though you were sweeping a floor. You should see a cloud of dust come off with each stroke. If you don’t, you are likely pushing the dirt back under the hair, irritating your horse and you need to use a more ‘flicking’ motion. Remember, always brush with the hair.
Body Brush
The body brush smoothes down the hair and brings out the shine after removing dirt and scurf (dead dry flakes of skin) with the rubber curry and the dandy brush. Smooth the hair flat with this brush using long smooth strokes and pressure. This is the only brush that may be used on the whole body.
Mane Comb
Use a plastic (not metal) mane comb to gently comb the horse’s mane. Use the dandy brush to brush the horse’s tail. A comb may break the hairs. You may also use your fingers to remove as many tangles from the mane and tail as you can. Work slowly and gently to avoid breakage.
Sponges or Towels
Using one of your sponges or towels (keep one specifically for the head), clean around the eyes and nostrils. Wet it in warm water and wring it out. Untie and back your horse away from the fence. Using one corner, wipe near the eye and then use another corner for the other eye. Using the other end, clean the nostrils. Using different corners will help avoid spreading contamination. Retie your horse. Use the other sponge/towel to wipe the dock area under the tail, standing at your horse’s side, not directly behind it.
Hoof Pick
Clean out the hooves with your hoof pick. Always scrape with the hoof pick AWAY from you, as though you were peeling a carrot. Thoroughly clean out the hollow areas on both sides of the frog and around the SOLE of the foot. While doing this, inspect for loose shoes, foreign objects and THRUSH. Set the foot down…don’t drop it.
Towel
A plain rag or towel should be used to wipe over the entire horse’s coat to bring out the shine.
Shedding Blade
You can use a shedding blade as a sweat scraper after your horse's bath or after a hard workout when they're pretty sweaty. There are teeth on it and you don't want to use it on the horse's face or back too far back in their abdomen near the genital region. Make sure you're going with the horse's hair coat. If you're going sideways on it or against the grain, your horse is going to find that to be pretty irritating because of the teeth pulling on the hair.
Start with the rubber curry comb. Use a circular motion to loosen dirt that has settled under the hair. Be careful of bony areas and do not use on the legs or face.
38
Picking Up The Feet
The value and lifespan of the horse depends on its ability to perform work. Without four SOUND feet it will be unable to do the things you want it to do. The most important details in the care of a horse’s feet are to:
Keep them clean Prevent them from drying out Trim them so they retain a proper shape and length
Ideally, the feet of a horse should get daily care. Each day, clean the feet of horses that are shod, stabled or used.
Front Feet:
When you are picking up the feet of a strange or young horse start with the front left foot. Most horses are used to being handled from this side and are not as sensitive about the front as the back.
1. Talk to your horse as you move and work around it. 2. Stand beside your horse’s front leg, facing the
hindquarters. 3. Gently rub your hand from the horse’s shoulder
down the leg.
4. When your hand reaches the pastern area, gently grip the leg with your hand. 5. Gently pull up on the horse’s leg until its hoof is in the correct position for cleaning. 6. Use a hoof pick to clean out the mud, stones, bedding or anything trapped in the m idle
groove of the hoof. 7. Slowly set the horse’s hoof back on the ground.
http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_1468_groom-horse.html A video demonstrating how to groom a horse.
http://video.about.com/horses/Clean-and-Pick-a-Horse-Hoof.htm A video demonstrating how to clean a horse hoof.
Safety Tip: When you are working under a horse, do not sit or
kneel. If the horse moves, you will not be able to get out of the way. A hand placed on the ground as you work can also be stepped on easily.
39
Hind Feet:
To pick up the left hind foot: 1. approach the horse from the front and place your left hand on its hip. 2. Move your right hand down, keeping your left hand on the hip to feel for
tenseness of muscles. Lean your shoulder into the horse’s thigh to force the horse’s weight to the other side.
3. Grasp the back of the CANNON just above the fetlock and lift the leg forward. Stand as close to the leg as possible. If you stand very close and the horse strikes out at you, the kick will merely push you away.
4. When the horse is settled, move to the rear, keeping the leg straight and swing your left leg underneath the fetlock to help support the horse’s leg.
To pick up the feet on the far side use these same procedures but reverse your hand positions.
Cleaning Your Horses Feet:
When cleaning your horse’s feet, start with the near fore (left front), then near hind, then off fore (right front), off hind. (“Near” refers to the left side and “off” refers to the right side.) Always clean from heel to toe so accidents can be avoided. If the horse jumps, the hoof pick would go up into the air rather than into the horse or yourself. Remember to be considerate of the horse when you have the foot up. Don’t hold it too far away, too long a period of time, nor too high, making it uncomfortable. Pick it up for short periods, keeping the leg close to the horse and don’t forget to reward your horse.
Safety Tip: Standing closer to the horse when working with the feet is safer than being further away. If they kick at you, it will push you away rather than giving them room to fully extend their leg with a blow.
Equus says...
When holding the hooves, always keep your knees bent in order to avoid undue stress on your back.
40
Parts of the Hoof
Bars: The thickest raised portions of the wall near either side of the frog. Cleft of the Frog: The central groove of the frog Frog: The frog is an elastic tissue that divides the SOLE into two equal halves. It should be large and well developed with no moisture showing. The frog distributes pressure as the horse moves and the ACTION of the frog, when it makes contact with the ground, helps circulate the blood up the leg. The frog normally sheds several times a year. Heel: The back of the foot that hits the ground first as the horse travels.
SOLE: The SOLE forms the bottom surface of the foot. The SOLE is concave from front to back and from side to side because it is not intended to support weight. Toe: The front of the hoof. Wall: The hoof wall is the outer portion of the foot. It is not an even thickness around the foot. It is thickest at the toe, where it is under the most pressure, and thins towards the back. White Line: The connection between the SOLE and the wall.
Signs That A Horse Needs Its Hooves Trimmed:
• If the hoof wall is more than ¼ in. longer than the SOLE. • If the hoof has chips, cracks, flares or a long toe. • If the hoof is longer on one side than the other or the feet do not match.
Equus says...
Regardless of whether you show your horse or not, there are some basic grooming techniques that are good to know for health and safety reasons, as well as for showing. There are times when an injury needs to be clipped or cold hosed. A horse that is used to these things will be more relaxed if such an injury needs regular treating.
41
Bathing Your Horse For Showing or Achievement
Note: Washing is not a good substitute for regular grooming since it removes the protective oil of the hair and skin. If you wash your horse to remove salt and sweat after a hard work out, bathe the horse with clear water.
Generally, its it best to bath only before an important event like a show or achievement day.
1. Always move slowly and calmly around your horse. If you’re using a hose, start with a slow trickle of water, using it on the feet first and gradually moving upward. As the animal becomes accustomed to the water, you can increase the flow.
2. Wet the horse all over using warm water if possible. Leave the head until last. 3. With a sponge, apply shampoo specially formulated for horses. (Some horses may react to other
shampoos or soaps.) Work up a good lather using a mitt or a sponge. 4. Rinse well removing all soap. 5. Using a damp sponge and warm water, wash the head areas using little or no soap. Rinse well. Be
very careful around the eyes and ears. 6. If the horse is very dirty, you may wish to give it a second shampoo. 7. Be sure to remove all traces of soap from the hair, the mane and tail. (Soap left on the skin can
cause irritation to the horse and makes the hair appear dull.) 8. Use a sweat scraper to remove water from the horse’s body. 9. If you’re planning to show your horse, there are special products available to produce “super
shines”. These are applied after the final rinse. Check with your local saddle shop. 10. After giving the horse a bath, put it back in the stall or in the shade to dry. If it’s cool weather, use
a blanket to prevent a chill.
Basic Clipping and Trimming
Whether you are a trail rider or have show ring interests, you want your horse to be healthy and look its best. Trimming a few hairs can make a world of difference in your horse’s appearance. Blunt scissors may be used but electric clippers will produce a smoother result. It is also a good idea for your horse to be used to these procedures in case an injury requires emergency clipping. Electric Clippers:
No matter how quiet the horse may be, it is always better to have a helper when using the clippers. Your job will also be much easier if you get your horse used to the sound of the clippers well in advance of ever needing to use them.
http://www.ehow.com/videos-on_6023_bathe-horse.html?sms_ss=email&at_xt=4d3db3d1171c5406%2C0 A video series demonstrating How to Bath Your Horse
42
Trimming the Face:
If you are planning to show your horse, the long guard hairs on the face should be trimmed. This includes the long coarse hairs above and below the eyes (not the eyelashes) and the long hairs on the muzzle and under the jaw. Be very careful around the eyes.
Clipping muzzle Clipping underside of jaw
Trimming a Bridle Path:
This is the small section of mane that is trimmed downwards from the poll (don’t trim the foretop!). It makes haltering and bridling easier and also makes the throatlatch appear thinner.
The length of the bridle path depends on: a. why you are trimming it b. the breed of the horse c. the thickness of the throatlatch
For example, a horse with a short neck needs a short bridle path. However, a horse with a thick throatlatch will look thinner if it has a longer bridle path. If in doubt, trim a bridle path equal to the length of the horse’s ear. Remember, you can always trim more but it takes a lot of time to “grow out” a mistake.
Trim long hairs (whiskers) on muzzle
Bridle path
Remove long hairs (whiskers) around the eye, but not the eyelashes!
Remove all long hairs between bottom lip and throatlatch
Hair around and sticking out of the ears
43
Brush the foretop forward and comb the mane to the side, out of the way.
Using blunt scissors, trim the section you want as a bridle path, down to 1 cm (½ inch or less.
Using your free hand, grasp the mane along the edge of the bridle path. This will prevent you from making a mistake. Trim forward toward the poll. Be careful not to trim any foretop. Clip the hair down to nearly skin level being careful not to let the clippers dig into the skin.
To make the area smoother, clip the hair vertically along the sides of the bridle path. Then finish by running the clippers along the top.
Clipping the Ears
The amount of clipping will depend on whether the horse is kept inside. A horse kept outside must have hair left in the ear since this is its natural defense against insects and dust.
You may wish to just neaten your horse’s appearance by trimming its hair on the edge of the ear. These long hairs on the outside edge of the ear may be shortened without affecting the inner protection.
Show horses kept indoors often have all the hair trimmed from the inside of their ears. Do not let clipped hair fall inside the ear!
To trim the ear hairs, start from tip, and work to the base, holding the ear so it can be folded between your palm and fingertips length-wise as shown below. Any hair sticking out should be “zipped” off. Do not stick the clipper inside the ear to clip those hairs. As long as the ear looks clean and trim, you are fine. Trimming the inner ear: Trimming the outer ear:
44
Trimming the leg:
Most horses have long hairs in the fetlock area so that mud and water do not build up behind the pastern. When horses are being shown, the fetlock is cut short to give the pastern more shape and to create a clean look. The longer hairs on the back of the leg are also trimmed.
Begin by running the clippers in the same direction as the hair, using long slow strokes with light pressure. All of the trimmed hair should blend in with the other leg hair. Hair is also trimmed away around the coronet band. This neatens the appearance of the hoof.
Show/Achievement Day
1. Wash or rinse any white legs or lightly sponge any areas needing it. If your horse has white legs you may wish to wrap them to ensure they stay clean. You may also touch up white areas with baby powder.
2. If your horse has frizzy hairs near the top of its tail head – apply hairspray and a few wraps of vet wrap tape to smooth the hairs together. (Take the tape off just before you head to the show ring.) To avoid spooking the horse or accidentally spraying the region under the horses’ tail, you may wish to spray the comb first, and then work on the tail.
3. Be sure the hooves are clean – both the wall and the SOLE. If you are applying gloss, the hooves must be completely dry. Dark hoof gloss may be used on black hooves and clear on white hooves. If gloss is used, scrub it off after the show as it has a drying effect on the hoof. Some owners prefer to apply hoof conditioner rather than gloss. It is your choice.
4. Brush your horse. Remember to flip the mane over and remove any visible scurf from the underside.
5. Brush the mane, tail and forelock. 6. Use clippers or a disposable razor to tidy up any whiskers on the horse’s muzzle. (Note: While
clipping your horse several days earlier allows any “irregular” spots to grow in a little – the guard hairs will also grow back. These need to be trimmed on the day of the show.)
7. Use a sponge or damp rag to wipe the dock area. 8. Wipe the horse’s body with a clean, soft cloth. 9. You may wish to apply a coat dressing to bring out the highlights in the horse’s body, mane and
tail. 10. Use a cloth to wipe any dust out of the horse’s ears. 11. Use a sponge to clean around the eyes, nostrils and lips. A thin layer of Vaseline, baby oil or
commercial grooming product may be wiped around these areas. (Note: Apply coat dressings and oils last because these products may attract dust. At shows where your horse may be tied to the trailer, be aware of dust from passing traffic or the horse pawing the ground.) Remove baby oil after the show because the horse’s face may become sunburned.
12. Do a final check of the horse to see if anything was missed. You may wish to use a rag to wipe the horse’s hooves one last time. (Don’t forget to wipe the dust off of your own boots as well!)
Equus says...
If you band or braid your horse’s mane for the achievement day/show, do it the night before the show. If you have a “slinky” (a mane cover made from stretchy material), put it on your horse to keep its mane neat and clean. This can save you time on the morning of the show.
45
Skill Builder 4: Psychology
SKILLS CHECKLIST
Dream it! If you couldn’t speak, how would you communicate with a friend? When you understand horse language, it’s like breaking a secret code. Horses communicate with each other and with humans through sounds and body language. The flick of the ear, a snort or whinny, or a movement of the mouth can mean something. You have to watch horses very carefully to “read” them and the following activities will help you get started.
Get into groups of 2 and without speaking, try to get your partner to perform a task such as to get a glass of milk from the fridge or to get an apple from the cupboard. Switch places with your partner and have them do the same to you. How difficult was it?
Equus says…
Just as humans can understand how someone is feeling by their facial expressions, and body language, we can understand horses the same way. This Skill Builder will go over their different ways horses express their feelings.
Level Required Skill Activities
L1 Describe your horse’s first reaction when he is frightened. Describe what might happen if it is tied and what should you do.
Mood Match Picture Book The Mane Event What's Wrong?
L1 Describe 4 signs that a horse may be about to misbehave.
L1 Explain what you would do if someone else’s horse ran away while you were riding.
L2 Explain how a horse would use his body language to show that he is happy, angry, nervous and curious. Give two clues for each emotion.
L2 Explain why your horse wants to return to the group.
L3 Explain how horses work out the pecking order and how you can tell which one is the boss in the group.
46
Do it!
Mood Match (Level 1)
Write the letter of the picture that matches each mood in the chart below.
A B
C
D
E
F
____ Uncomfortable ____ Bored ____ Alert
____ Angry ____ Concerned ____ Attentive
47
Picture Book (All Levels)
Pick one of the following activities to complete:
Level 1 - Collect pictures of at least 20 horses. Label what you believe each horse is communicating.
Level 2 - Make a list that describes horse behaviors that could be used for a game of charades. Play the game of charades with your project group. See if they can guess which mood you are demonstrating.
Level 3 - Read a book or watch a video about horse behavior. Talk to your leader
about what you learned.
The Mane Event (All Levels)
Observe one horse for at least 10 minutes in its stall or tied up, and then let it out with other horses in a pasture.
Carefully observe these behaviors of the horse and record them below:
Body movements: How it eats: Sounds it makes: Mood: Response to insects: How it grooms itself: Anything else that you observe:
48
Now observe and record the behaviors you observe in a group of horses.
Who was the boss horse and what did it do? How was the horse was greeted by the other horses? Behavior in the group How they eat Which horse is at the bottom of the group? Other:
Dig it!
After observing a horse in two locations, think about the following questions and then discuss them with your leader and project group.
1. What did the horses say to each other through their body language? 2. What was most interesting? 3. How does a person who cannot speak communicate with a horse? 4. Where else in your life do you ”read” a situation to know what is happening? 5. How can you use what you have learned about body language to better understand your horse?
What’s Wrong?
What do you think Horace is feeling? Would you approach this horse by yourself? Discuss with a partner or in a group, why you would or wouldn't approach Horace, and the different things me may do if you did approach him.
49
Psychology Reference Section:
Sounds of Horses
Horses can make a range of sounds to show their emotions.
Knickers are usually friendly, soft and most submissive. Neighs are stronger and are more assertive. A horse will call out very loudly when panicking. Squeals are most often made when a horse first meets another horse. Mares and their foals can identify each other by the sounds they make. Snorts show apprehension or dislike often followed by a bolting (flight).
Body Language of Horses
Horses communicate a lot with their body language. A horse’s expressions and the way it moves will tell other horses and people (who know how to read this body language) exactly how it feels or what it wants. After spending time around horses, you will start to be able to read their body language. Start listening to your horse by looking at the position of the head and look of the eye, followed by how tensed the muscles are and the tail position. Body language is one of the fastest methods of finding out that a horse is sick. A horse that normally comes to you may not come to you at all. A horse with stomach pains may look at its side, roll, stretch, or lie down and refuse to stand. Horses that stand with a dropped head and/or have a dull eye may be sick. By recognizing that the horse is sick you will be able to treat it more quickly. Ears
The ears are one of the easiest signs of a horse’s mood. When the ears are flat back the horse is usually angry or stubborn and a kick may soon follow. Sometimes ears laid back means it is concentrating really hard, as in a racehorse, cow horse or show jumper making extreme efforts. If a horse is worried or uncomfortable, it may also lay its ears back. Bored Horse - ears tipped back Angry Horse - ears pinned, whites of eyes showing If a horse has its ears pricked forward it is probably curious or completely alert. A horse that flicks its ears around in different directions like a propeller is usually very attentive to
what its rider is asking of it. When a horse has its ears relaxed and lop-sided it is resting. A horse’s ears that are droopy and hanging to the side and respond slowly to sound usually
indicate that there is sickness in the animal. Ears that are perked forward may mean that the horse is listening to or looking very hard at an
object that he may mistrust and might be getting ready to spook.
50
Head
An outstretched head and neck, with ears forward, denotes curiosity. When on the defensive or on alert, the horse lifts and arches its head and neck. Repeated nod-ding of the head may mean that the horse is impatient. Attentive Horse
Ears tipped to listen Ears forward, alert expression Eyes
Curiosity or alarm is shown with a wide eye. Wrinkles above the eye often show worry. A horse that is resting will have relaxed, droopy eyelids. Squinting is a signal of a horse getting ready to attack or react aggressively to something. Rolling eyes usually are a sign that the horse is in pain. Drooping eyelids may indicate a tired horse or one that has an ongoing pain.
Concerned Horse Uncomfortable Horse Stiff ears, wide eyes and nostrils Pinched mouth, narrow eyes A horse can use binocular vision (both eyes on one area) to focus on distant objects by raising its head.
Alert Horse
51
A horse with the head held vertical will use binocular vision to focus on objects near its feet.
Back
Before a horse bucks or shies away from something, it will tense and round its back. A horse that flinches or drops its back under pressure may have a sore back.
Legs
A horse rarely kicks out without warning. As a threat and warning, a horse will lift its hoof off the ground and pin its ears back. Horses often rest a foot by standing on just three feet. Tail
The tail is also a useful measure of a horse’s mood. When it is firmly clamped down, the horse is planning to be stubborn or is about to attack. When it is relaxed and swinging from side to side the horse is relaxed and happy. When carried up and somewhat away from his body, the horse is alert and/or curious. When held straight up in the air the horse is usually very high spirited and showing off, or he is
frightened. When swishing from side to side can simply mean that the flies are being bothersome or he may
be slightly annoyed. When the horse’s tail lashes violently at his sides he is usually very angry or he is in a state of
extreme distress - either physical or mental.
The Runaway
Horses are naturally curious, yet quite suspicious. Everything is ‘scary’ until proven otherwise. They always want to flee from danger. With their good eyesight and very long legs, they are able to quickly run away. By educating and training horses, we take away some of their flight INSTINCT as they learn to trust. However, in a panic situation even well-trained horses will listen to their flight INSTINCT as a reaction to the fear.
An open rein is often used on young horses where the rider “opens” the hand away from the neck (never back), on same side they wish the horse to turn into. This “leads” the horse into the turn. This rein is just a directional aid and has nothing to do with bending. It directs and encourages the horse instead of forcing him.
Left Open Rein Left Direct Rein
52
One of the most important uses of an open rein is in the case of a runaway or any out of control horse. An open rein is used as strongly as necessary until the horse circles down and control is regained. It is important to have either a chin strap (Western) or CAVESSON or full cheek SNAFFLE (English) to prevent the bit ring from being pulled into the horse’s mouth. If there is a runaway horse all riders should stop. A horse is a herd animal and will likely return to the group.
If there is a runaway horse all riders should stop. A horse is a herd animal and will likely return to the group.
BE AWARE
Your horse reads your body language and your mood just as you read your horse’s body language. When you work with your horse be careful that your body language is not communicating a different message than you planned, without you realizing it. Be aware of the type of mood you are in when working with your horses as they will pick up on this very easily as well…happy, angry, sad. It is just as important for us to understand and be aware of what our body language is communicating to our horses as it is for us to understand the horse’s body language.
You are always sending signals to your horse. Each time you handle him you teach him something – sometimes good, sometimes bad. Always think about what you are doing and how you are sending signals to decide if you are making things better or worse with your horse.
Equus says...
Did you know that if you have a group of horses, it is important to know the pecking order (which horse is “boss”). It will affect your safety, especially during feeding time or if you’re leading one of the horses through the herd. A timid horse may bolt if any of the dominant horses comes towards it.
Horses may show two kinds of threat signals: In aggression, the head gives the first threat; ears are flattened, head thrust forward. When the tail lashes about and the mouth opens, the horse is probably going to lunge forward and bite!
The defensive threats are usually given from the rear end. The horse turns its rump, the tail is flattened and the ears are back. The horse may
Check these websites if you would like to read more about using body language to communicate with your horse: http://www.oewequinecenter.com/Human%20Body%20Language.pdf http://juliegoodnight.com/questionsNew.php?id=218 http://www.ridemagazine.com/horse/article/clinton-anderson-communicating-your-body-language
53
Skill Builder 5: Health
SKILLS CHECKLIS
Dream it!
The horse has evolved to be a grazing animal. Left alone, a horse will graze for about 16 hours a day. If a horse lives where it can’t graze all day, we need to provide the proper NUTRITION and other care for it. List a few things that your horse needs in order to be healthy. What would make you think a horse might not be healthy? The activities and information in this unit will help you pro-vide basic health care for your horse.
The next time you visit your EQUINE veterinarian or when your FARRIER comes out, ask for a mag-net or a card with his/her name and phone number on it.
Equus says…
In this skill builder, you will be learning proper NUTRITION, amounts to feed, what a horse’s body requires, and the different types of treatments for your horse’s health needs. Pay close atten-tion to the italicized words
Be sure that you check your horse regularly.
Level Required Skill Activities
L1 Describe where you keep your horse. What Does Your Horse Eat?
Let’s Eat right
I Don’t Look Very Good
How Do I Look Today?
Health Trivia Game
Health Record
3 Month Feed Records
Health Multiple Choice
Field Trip
What’s for Dinner?
My Horse’s Home
Stall Mucking
Feeding Program
L1 Describe what your horse regularly eats.
L1 Describe 3 signs that show a horse is healthy.
L2 Demonstrate how to measure the height and weight of your horse.
L2 Describe three signs that indicate a horse is unhealthy.
L2 Explain how much and how often you feed your horse each day.
L2 Explain four feeding rules.
L3 Explain what you do to prevent and control parasites in your horse.
L3 Describe three signs of a wormy horse.
L3
Name three things that determine what your horse needs to eat (feed by need).
L3 Describe three feeding problems that could make your horse sick.
L3 If a pasture-kept horse must be stalled, name three things you could do to make it comfortable and safe.
L3 Describe and demonstrate how to clean (muck) a stall.
54
Make sure you put it in a place where you can quickly find it or ask someone else to find it in order to make an emergency call. Remember: emergencies happen when you least expect. Think of reasons why it important to have the phone number where you can easily find it.
Do it!
What Does Your Horse Eat? (Level 1)
Collect samples of the hay you feed your horse on a regular basis. Then collect samples of the grains and supplements fed to your horse.
Bring the samples to your project meeting. Discuss with your group and leader what kinds of things your horses are fed. Does everyone feed the same things? What is different?
Let’s Eat Right (Level 2)
Make a poster that shows four or five rules to remember for feeding your horse. You may draw, use pictures from a magazine, or use the computer to make your poster.
Explain your poster to your project group or at a club meeting. Tell them how much and how often you feed your horse. You may want to save your poster for the showcase challenge at the end of your
manual.
I Don’t Look Very Good (Level 2)
This is an unhealthy horse. Do you know why? With your leader and project group, discuss at least three signs that a horse is unhealthy.
55
How Do I Look Today? (Level 1)
If you need help, you will find the answers to this word search in the Physical Appearance section of this skill builder. Across
2. This makes the hair shiny. 4. Ears should be ___ when your horse is healthy. 5. This can leave a wrinkle that is slow to disappear. 9. A horse with these may have a dull, rough coat. 10. Hair should have this quality. Down
1. Eye membranes may become bright pink and inflamed if there is a lack of this. 3. Bright eyed and ___ tailed. 4. This condition will make your horse's hair stand up. 6. This may change in your horse before you see signs of illness. 7. You must learn what this is for your horse so you can more easily tell when it is sick. 8. Eyes should be ___ when your horse is healthy.
Equus says… Remember, you should wash out your horse’s water trough at least once a week. Algae and other unwanted substances can build up around the inside of the trough, and if swallowed, your horse could become sick. Fresh water is always required as well.
56
Health Trivia Game (All Levels)
Your leader has a health trivia game for you to play.
What new thing did you learn today about your horse’s health.
What’s For Dinner? (Level 3)
Your leader will arrange for an experienced, knowledgeable horse owner horse owner to come and talk to your project group about a good plan for feeding your horse. While the person presents, listen for the answers to these questions:
What should you keep in mind when determining how much and what to feed your horse? What types of feeding problems could make your horse sick? What kinds of things does a person feed their horse and why? Be prepared to discuss these answers later with your group and leader,
57
Keeping Records
Keeping records is an important part of a 4-H project. Good records will tell you and others about your 4-H project. Good records will tell you about your horse’s health and the costs involved in keeping your horse. Re-cord keeping is a part of “learning to do by doing”.
Hints For Good Record Keeping 1. Make it a habit to fill out each section as soon as possible. 2. Do all calculations on scratch paper. When you are sure they are
right, transfer them neatly to your record page. 3. Be as neat as possible. Records are important so they must be easily read.
4. Pasture costs may be calculated using the current rate applied at PFRA pastures. Check with your local ag. office.
5. If you need more space add extra pages.
HEALTH RECORDS (all levels) List any routine practices for prevention of sickness and injury such as de-worming and vaccinations. Also include treatments for sickness or injury.
Year 1
DATE PROBLEM TREATMENT COST
Year 2
DATE PROBLEM TREATMENT COST
DATE PROBLEM TREATMENT COST
Year 3
DATE PROBLEM TREATMENT COST
58
3-MONTH FEED RECORDS
All Levels
Quantity Price Per Unit
Total Cost (3 months) Feed Per Day For 3 Months
Grains (list)
Roughages (hay)
Pasture
Supplements
Protein
Minerals
Salt
Other…
A. 3-Month Feed Costs $
B. Bedding Costs $
c. Hauling Costs $
D. Health and Veterinarian Costs (see Health Record) $
E. FARRIER Costs $
Month__________________ to Month________________Total Cost for 3 Months
$
59
3-MONTH FEED RECORDS
All Levels
Quantity Price Per Unit
Total Cost (3 months) Feed Per Day For 3 Months
Grains (list)
Roughages (hay)
Pasture
Supplements
Protein
Minerals
Salt
Other…
A. 3-Month Feed Costs $
B. Bedding Costs $
c. Hauling Costs $
D. Health and Veterinarian Costs (see Health Record) $
E. FARRIER Costs $
Month__________________ to Month________________Total Cost for 3 Months
$
60
3-MONTH FEED RECORDS
All Levels
Quantity Price Per Unit
Total Cost (3 months) Feed Per Day For 3 Months
Grains (list)
Roughages (hay)
Pasture
Supplements
Protein
Minerals
Salt
Other…
A. 3-Month Feed Costs $
B. Bedding Costs $
c. Hauling Costs $
D. Health and Veterinarian Costs (see Health Record) $
E. FARRIER Costs $
Month__________________ to Month________________Total Cost for 3 Months
$
61
Health Multiple Choice (Level 3)
1. This is a NOT a sign that your horse may need dental work. a. mounds of partially chewed food are found in the manger. b. a large number of unbroken oats are found in the manure. c. it will cock its head, spill food from its mouth; have difficulty eating. d. he runs away, terrified, every time you mention the word ‘DENTIST’.
2. A Doctor of Veterinary Medicine is trained to: a. treat only large animals with hooves b. treat many different kinds of animals and give expert medical advice c. teach animals how to perform amazing tricks d. give one-handed vaccination shots with both eyes closed
3. Signs that a horse might have colic are: a. running and playing b. sneezing three times in a row c. eating and drinking d. frantic rolling and sweating
4. Knowing how to check a horse for signs of dehydration is important because: a. the vet doesn't know how b. it makes a horseman look really smart c. it lets everyone know how many times a horse can be pinched
it provides important information about a horse's health
5. Parasites are harmful invaders that can damage a horse's… a. self-esteem b. internal organs c. leather bridle d. Horseshoes
6. A good way to check for parasites is to take a close look at a horse's… a. facial expressions b. eye color c. hoof prints d. manure droppings
7. One helpful way to keep a horse from getting infected with bots is to: a. get the horse registered in a breed association as soon as possible b. pasture in a small area with other horses c. keep leg hairs clipped and horse areas as manure-free as possible d. feed on the ground, close to manure droppings and unclean water
8. Biting, bloodsucking flies and mosquitoes spread:
a. infectious diseases from animal to animal b. love and joy around the entire horse world c. gossip and tell silly horse jokes d. goodwill to other insects
9. What type of feed should be the main part of every horse's diet? a. Hay b. Apples c. Horse treats d. Supplements
62
HEIGHT AND WEIGHT
A horse owner needs to know the height and weight of their horse: 1. For identification 2. To be sure the horse is getting enough to eat 3. To know that the horse is healthy
With the help of your leader or an older member practise measuring the
height and weight of your horse:
My horse weighs: ______________ My horse is _________ inches or ________ HANDS tall.
PARASITES! (Level 3)
Pick one of the EQUINE parasites and do some research at the library, online or by talking to your veterinarian or an experienced horseperson. Make a poster that shows the signs that your horse may have that parasite and what you can do to prevent or control the parasite. You may draw, use pictures from magazines or use the computer to make your poster. Explain to what you have learned to your project group and leader. You may wish to save your poster for the Showcase Challenge at the end of your manual.
63
Dig it!
Stall Mucking
Visit a stable and have someone explain how to properly muck stalls. Take your own forks and help out for 1 hour. If there isn’t a stable near by your leader may suggest an alternate activity for you. In your project group discuss these questions:
1. Why don’t you remove all of the bedding from the stalls every day?
2. How often is it all removed? 3. What do you do with a wet hole
in a dirt floor once all the bed-ding is removed?
4. How much bedding do you put back in?
5. What type of bedding can be used and why?
My Horse’s Home
Describe to your group where you keep your horse.
Feeding Program
Visit a feed store and examine the different bagged feeds. Note that one of the major differences is in the protein percentage. Use this information to discuss:
1. What questions do you need to answer before you decide which bag of food you might need to buy for your horse?
2. Why don’t all horses get the same ration? 3. Why is it important to think about your horse’s feeding program AND other
activities each day? 4. What happens if your horse doesn’t eat a balanced diet? 5. What can you do to make sure your horse eats a balanced diet and stays active?
Home Sweet Home
64
Health Reference Section: You feed and care for your horse because you want it to feel good and work for you. An important part of health in the horse is to learn what is considered normal. After you learn to recognize normal, it will be easy for you to spot an ABNORMAL health condition. The best way to learn this is to spend a lot of time with your horse. Often, your horse’s attitude or behavior will change before you can see other signs of illness.
Physical Appearance
The hair and skin can tell us many things. A horse with parasites (an organism living on or in your horse) may have a rough, dull coat. Poor NUTRITION (feeding) will also make the hair dull and a fever will cause the hair to stand up. A horse in good condition will have a shiny, soft coat of hair. The summer hair coat will lie smoothly.
Oil from oil glands on the skin gives the hair its shine. The skin should have a slightly shiny appearance with a minimum of dry flaking skin. Dandruff and skin irritations will damage hair in that area of the body.
The skin should also have an elastic quality. If you pinch a fold of skin along the neck and release it, it should spring back into place almost immediately. Poor body condition or dehydration can leave a wrinkle that is slow to disappear.
The ears should be forward and the eyes should be bright. The membranes around the coloured part of the eye should have a healthy soft pinkish colour and appear moist. If there is a lack of moisture these membranes become bright pink and inflamed. Poor blood circulation to the membranes (such as during shock) will cause them to appear almost white. During an illness the eyes may appear to sink back into the skull, usually due to dehydration.
Behavior
How your horse behaves will tell us how it feels. Behaviour will change before other signs of illness are visible. Usually your horse should be interested in anything new it sees or hears. The horse should be alert but relaxed under normal conditions. This will vary from horse to horse depending on its disposition.
When an animal is feeling ill, it will change its behaviour. Some changes that may be observed include: Droopy and tired appearance (head down) Off feed and water. Healthy horses are always interested in feed. A lack of interest is often one of
the first visible signs of serious illness. Dull eyes, watery eyes Coughing Nasal discharges Weight loss Change in breathing Flared and/or inflamed nostrils. Limping or posturing (standing in an unusual way) Diarrhea or does not pass manure for more than twelve hours. If your horse seems in pain, gets up and down repeatedly, rolls often, kicks at his belly or bites at
his side, he may have colic.
65
Dental Health
Signs that your horse may need some dental work done include:
Mounds of partially chewed food are found in the manger. A large number of unbroken oats are found in the manure. It will cock its head, spill food from its mouth and obviously have difficulty eating.
The horse is a social animal with a herd INSTINCT. Poor health can change this. It is common for a sick animal to leave the group completely or maintain a distance from the herd. In some cases, the horse will be unable to keep up to the herd and becomes separated. This is different from chronic problems such as LAMENESS or poor eyesight. With these types of problems, horses will often pair off for company.
Keeping Your Horse Healthy
1. Avoid other sick animals. 2. Disinfect buildings twice a year and trailers
every trip. 3. Do not allow anyone to bring germs from
other sick animals on their shoes or clothing.
4. At fairs, shows, clinics, etc. use your own feed tubs and water pails. Try not to lend out yours without disinfecting it before using it again.
5. Feed your horse well. Healthy, well-fed horses are more resistant to disease.
6. For injections, use only disposable needles. 7. Ask your veterinarian to give your horse
his annual (every year) injection for sleeping sickness (EQUINE ENCEPHALOMYELITIS) and TETANUS (LOCKJAW). Ask about also giving vaccinations for rhinopneumonitis (rhino) and flu.
8. Watch for signs of scratching that include bald patches and a poor coat. Your horse may have lice. This happens more often in the spring. Ask your vet about an appropriate treatment.
9. Check the heel and pastern of your horse for small scabs and ‘scratches’. Greasy heel (or scratches) is caused by bacteria that infect these areas. This condition is very painful and gets much worse without treatment.
Equus says . . .
The province of Manitoba has developed a Premises Identification Program to be used as a tool for the planning and management of animal health and food safety emergencies This regulation requires the owner or operator of a premises to provide specific land and contact information. For more information contact your local MAFRI GO Office or e-mail [email protected].
66
Height And Weight
To determine how tall a horse is, measure the horse, in inches, from the ground in a straight line up to the highest point of the withers. Divide this by 4. For example, 61” is 61/4 = 15 remainder 1. We say this horse is “15.1 HANDS high” which means 15 HANDS 1 inch high.
To determine your horse’s weight, use a special measuring tape with pounds and kilograms on it.
Measure around the heart GIRTH as shown in the diagram.
Stall Cleaning
The goal of mucking a stall is to remove the wastes for the health and comfort of your horse. Remove the horse from the stall. Use a mucking fork or pitchfork to fork large clumps into a bucket or wheelbarrow. Becoming familiar with a horse’s stall will also allow you to monitor the waste as a quick health check. Don't take out more bedding than necessary. By sifting through the bedding, you'll be able to pick out the waste while leaving the clean bedding for another day. As long as the bedding is dry, it can stay. Check the walls for loose nails and at the door for loose hinges. Put some clean bedding in the stall, raking it through so it mingles with the older bedding. How much bedding depends upon how your barn is constructed. If your horse has an automatic waterer in its stall, you will probably need to clean it less than buckets, but algae can develop in those located in sunny areas. Check that the waterer is functioning properly, and scoop out any debris that may have accumulated.
With the bedding maintained, fill the water buckets, leave a flake of hay in the clean stall, and sweep the aisle.
You should occasionally strip your horse's stall down to the bottom for a thorough cleaning. First, sweep the floor and walls thoroughly. Then disinfect them. You can mix your own disinfectant by using a chlorine bleach and water solution. While you allow the flooring to dry, scrub your horse's feed bin with hot water and disinfectant. Remember to rinse everything completely.
67
Feed And Nutrition
There are some basic rules for good feeding:
1. Feed a little and often. Your horse has a small stomach but a large body. Left alone, it will graze most of the day and night in order to get enough food. Eating too much at once can cause stomach problems. This means if your horse is kept in a stable it should be fed three or four times daily.
2. Feed plenty of bulk food (hay) so the horse’s digestive system is well filled. Successful digestion cannot take place without enough bulk.
3. Feed GRAIN according to the amount of riding you are doing. Increase the amount of GRAIN as work is increased, reduce it if the horse is doing less work and stop if the horse is laid up for any reason. As GRAIN is decreased, you can increase the bulk food.
4. Do not make sudden changes in your horse’s diet since it can make him sick. Let your horse become used to other feeds over seven to ten days. This includes putting horses out to pasture in the spring when the grass is very lush.
5. Feed at the same time each day. Horses are creatures of habit. Feeding your horse at the same time each day will keep it happy.
6. Feed only good clean hay. Moldy or dusty hay can cause health problems such as coughing, running noses or heaves. Light watering will reduce the dust in some hay.
7. Feed something succulent each day if possible, to compensate for the lack of fresh grass. Succulent foods include carrots, parsnips, turnips, apples and pears. About two or three pounds should be fed on a regular basis. Be sure to add these to your horse’s diet slowly and in small portions because a sudden introduction, in quantity, to the diet may cause colic. A sudden introduction of a large amount of succulents to the diet may cause colic.
8. Do not ride your horse hard immediately after feeding. Allow at least one hour after feeding before working a horse and one hour after working before feeding. When the stomach is full, it affects the working of the lungs and heart.
9. Provide clean water at all times. An adult horse will drink up to 12-14 gallons daily and almost double that amount due to hot weather, hard work and when it is nursing a FOAL. The size of the horse and the amount of dry food a horse is eating also affect how much water it needs. If water is not available at all times - horses should be watered three times per day before feedings.
Purpose Of Food
The food that our horses eat has to do several things. The main needs are: To keep the horse in good condition. To keep the horse warm, especially as it ages. To give the horse energy for the work that is required. To supply everything a young horse needs for bone growth and development. To aid in the production of milk (lactation).
68
Food Nutrients
Feed can be divided into five main types of essential nutrients. Each type has a different job in the horse’s body. The five types are:
1. Energy nutrients (carbohydrates and fats) 2. Proteins 3. Vitamins 4. Minerals 5. Water
Horses living in the pasture for much of the year will get all the NUTRITION they need from the pasture. However, pastures that have been overgrazed or have weeds and coarse, tough grass won’t have as much nutritional value. A horse’s nutritional needs can be met through feeds such as roughages and concentrates.
Roughage
Roughage means bulky food, like grass, hay and some special feeds like BEET PULP, hay pellets etc. Good hay provides energy, protein, vitamins and minerals and plenty of fiber, which is necessary for good digestion.
Grass Hays: Include timothy, brome, orchard grass, rye grass, prairie hay and others. These have more fiber and are less concentrated than other types of hay.
Legume Hays: Include alfalfa and clover. LEGUMES are plants that produce seeds in pod, take nitrogen from the air and produce protein. Legume hays have more vitamins, protein and calcium than grass hays. Hay should not be dusty or mouldy (musty). Smelling the hay can help you to detect this properly. There should be a greater ratio of leaves to stems. Leaves provide the majority of nutrients so it is important that hay contains a high ratio of leaves. Smelling the hay can help you. Hay should contain only a small amount of foreign plants such as weeds and other undesirable grasses. It should be a clean green colour, not brown or black. Green colour shows that the hay was harvested at the correct growth stage, moisture content and that it was properly stored. It is also a good sign that it was able to cure without rainfall which can reduce the quality of nutrients
Concentrates
Concentrates have more nutrients packed into smaller amounts than bulk foods. Some examples include GRAIN (oats, corn, barley); mixed feed and feed pellets and supplements of vitamins and minerals. Horses need concentrates when they require more NUTRITION than they can get from hay or pasture. Grains usually have 50 – 60 per cent more digestible energy per pound than hay.
Salt
Horses need salt to keep the proper chemical balance in their bodies. They lose salt when they sweat, especially in hot weather. The horse cannot get enough salt from their natural food. Feed in blocks or
69
Winter Care
Cold weather can take the fun out of riding so the horse is often forgotten during the winter. Winter can be as hard on your horse as it is on you. Many horses are turned out on old pasture or cropland to forage for the winter. This may be enough feed in a mild winter, but not if it is a long, cold one.
You need to be sure that your horse is well fed so that it can produce enough body heat to keep warm.
Increasing the feed will help your horse stay in shape, have more energy and a better coat of hair that will shed out quickly in spring.
Horses will also stay in better condition if they have water to drink. The water should be warmed slightly (2-3 C). A horse eating snow uses more energy and will feel the cold more than a horse that has water supplied daily. If you do ride in the winter, your horse will need extra feed.
Be careful when riding in winter. The footing is not always solid and the horse can slip and fall. This makes the slow GAITS the safest. Travelling through snow is also hard on the horse. Even a horse in good condition will sweat. Do not turn the horse out until it is dry. If the horse is turned out damp it may catch a chill.
Horses do not need to be kept inside during the winter but they do need shelter from the wind. Wind is a problem because it cools the horse down faster than cold temperatures alone. For horses being kept on pasture, trees and hills are good protection. Cattle shelters are also good. Some people do keep horses in the barn for the winter. These need to be turned out for exercise. Horses that are turned out during the day after being kept in the barn may be blanketed. The only problem with blanketing is that if the horse sweats under the blanket it may possibly become chilled because it takes so long to dry.
Barn Duties If your horse is kept in a barn, one of the most essential duties in your “housekeeping” routine is mucking out. If you neglect it, your horse’s stall will become damp, smelly and dirty and that can quickly lead to:
skin infections parasites THRUSH
If the horse is kept in a stall equipped with a watering bowl, it needs to be kept clean and free of food. Also change and rinse out water buckets regularly. Standing water absorbs ammonia and other impurities from the air and becomes flat.
Check out this website for more winter care tips: http://horses.about.com/od/seasonalcare/qt/
70
Bedding
A stabled horse requires adequate bedding. Choices of bedding may include straw, wood shavings, sawdust or shredded paper. In many areas, straw is the most economical choice for bedding.
Bedding may be banked (built up) along the sides and walls of the stall. This will help to prevent draught and to reduce the risk of the horse becoming cast. A horse is said to be cast when it rolls on its back and gets caught up against a wall
so that it is unable to get its legs underneath its body.
Bedding is essential in providing a healthy comfortable home for your animal. Inside or outside stabling – both require bedding. Bedding is important because: It encourages the horse to lie down and rest. It provides insulation from the cold floor in the wintertime. It cushions legs, elbows and hocks against hard floors. It helps keep the horse clean. It absorbs moisture and odors. It helps keep feet dry, protecting them from THRUSH
Illnesses
Colic Colic is an emergency that requires immediate FIRST AID and a call to your veterinarian. Colic is another name for stomach pain that can range from minor upset to severe. It can be fatal in some cases.
Signs of Colic:
Horse stops eating. Looking at its barrel. The horse acts restless and may paw, curl up its upper lip or
stretch as if to urinate. Biting at the flanks. Kicking at its belly. The horse gets up and down several times. In severe cases the horse may roll and thrash violently. Its pulse rate is higher and breathing heavy. May sweat. Sitting on hindquarters, supported by front legs.
If you suspect colic: Keep the horse warm and lead it around quietly. Do not allow the horse to roll. If the symptoms are severe or continue for longer than an hour, call the vet.
71
Worms are the cause of 80 per cent of the cases of colic. Worms can cause colic by blocking the main blood vessel to the digestive tract. This will affect the health and the movement of the digestive tract. Colic can occur when a large number of worms migrate through the digestive tract at the same time because of natural causes or from the application of a dewormer.
If you do suspect a large worm problem in a horse, a small dose of dewormer may be given to the horse several days before it is given a full dose. This removes a small number of the worms from the digestive tract. A young horse is more likely to get an impaction from worms because of the smaller diameter of its intestines.
Colic may also be the result of a length of gut folding inside itself or an infection of the digestive tract (may be secondary to another illness).
Parasites
A parasite is an animal that lives off of another animal (host).
The parasite uses the host to provide it with a home and food. It may eat the same food as the host or use fluid from the animal’s body (often blood).
The horse is the host to a variety of parasites, which we can put into two groups: 1. Internal 2. External
Common Causes of Colic: Prevention of Colic:
Overeating (GRAIN). Keep extra GRAIN in a safe place.
An impaction caused by feed (poor quality, low digestibility, low fibre)
Do not give your horse spoiled or unsuitable feed (grass clippings or frozen grass).
Sudden change of diet. Feed your horse at regular times, and introduce changes in feed gradually.
Lack of water Have fresh water available at all times.
A horse drinking large amounts of cold water when overheated
Never give a hot horse a long cold drink of water.
Working a horse hard right after he has eaten. Allow a horse at least one hour after eating before riding.
Swallowing sand along with feed or water. Do not feed hay or GRAIN on the ground.
Damage to intestine caused by worms. (Gut twisting)
Deworm your horse at least twice a year.
http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ansci/horse/eb55-3.htm For more information on parasites
72
Internal Parasites
Internal parasites (worms) live in the body of the horse. Most of them can be found in: a. Digestive tract b. Lungs c. Body cavity d. Muscle The Parasite Cycle:
Characteristics of a horse with internal parasites include: a. A rough dull coat. b. The horse sheds out later in the spring than the other horses. c. A thin horse with a potbelly. d. Thin even though the horse is being fed well and the horse is no longer growing. e. Frequent colic or diarrhea. f. Stunted growth. g. Poor bone and muscle development in young horses. h. Pale membranes of the eyes and mouth.
How do horses get internal parasites? How can internal parasites be prevented?
The main source of parasite infection in horses comes from feces. When horses live in an area of a limited size, they may eat contaminated material.
Pasture rotation, not grazing large numbers of horses in small areas, and not overgrazing the pasture will help control internal parasites.
During summer and late fall, bot flies lay eggs on the hairs of horses, primarily around the forelegs, shoulders, chest, flanks, neck, throat, jaws and lips. When horses scratch the hairs, the eggs enter their mouth.
One way to control the number of this parasite in your horse is to scrape the little yellow eggs off the hairs of your horse, before it ingests them.
73
Deworming
Good worming practices will help control parasite numbers. The number of times you deworm depends upon your where your horse lives and your herd size. If you only have a few horses to do, it is a good idea to deworm 4 times a year. If your horse has a lot of space, it may only need a treatment in the spring before it goes out to pasture and in the fall after the first killing frost. Consult your veterinarian to determine the best deworming schedule for your horse.
External Parasites Horses are also host to a number of external parasites (living on the outside of the horse). Frequent symptoms are:
Irritation Scratching Restlessness Changes in hair and skin conditions.
Examples of external parasites include lice, mites, ringworm, flies and mosquitoes.
Mosquitoes spread the disease EQUINE Infectious Anemia (Swamp Fever) and EQUINE ENCEPHALOMYELITIS (Sleeping Sickness). Both of these can cause death. While sleeping sickness can be controlled by vaccination, blood tests can be done to identify both diseases.
External parasites can be controlled with insecticides. Most come in liquid forms, which can be sprayed or wiped on the horse’s coat. Watch your horse’s skin and hair condition for reACTIONs to this form of treatment. Some horses with sensitive skin cannot tolerate strong sprays.
Relative Sizes of Internal Parasites
Pinworms are 7—15 cm (3 inches to 6 inches) long when mature . . . So how long do you think the ASCARID is ?
Pin worms
Large blood worm or
Palisade worm STRONYLES
Thread worm
Large Stomach Worms
ASCARIDS
74
Skill Builder 6: Identification & Confirmation
SKILLS CHECKLIST
Dream it!
Have you ever gotten 2 horses mixed up? If you wanted to buy a new horse, would you know which breed to look at? Identification uses a lot of new terms but you should be able to describe common horse markings, colors and breed characteristics.
Do it!
Breed Unscramble (Level 1)
Unscramble the 6 horse breeds in this puzzle.
Equus says…
Just like humans are all colors, have different body types and have the natural ability to do certain things, horses are no different. This Skill builder will go over all of these different aspects to help you more easily identify your horse and others.
Level Required Skill Activities
L1 Describe your horse’s breed, colour and markings. Breed Unscramble
Horse ID Form
Face Markings
Pin the Parts On The Horse
All About Me
Name the Parts
Look at My Legs!
Your Horse
L2 Identify at least six external parts of the horse.
L2 Identify any 5 colours and 5 markings that a horse may have.
L2 Name 5 breeds of horses.
L3 List 3 things your horse’s pen or pasture should have in it.
L3 Identify the breed, color and markings of three different horses in your group.
75
Horse ID Form (All Levels)
Complete the Horse ID Form found below. If you have changed horses since you completed this form, ask your leader for a new blank form .
76
Face Markings (Level 1)
Think about your horse’s face. Draw it’s markings onto this picture. Color it in the correct colors for your horse. When you fill out an ID form for your horse, you must be careful to get the markings very accurate (close to real)! Describe in words the breed, colour and markings of your horse.
_____________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________
A
B
C
D
E
_______ Blaze
_______ Star
_______ Bald
_______ Stripe
_______ SNIP
Match the face marking pictures to the correct description.
77
All About Me (Level 2)
Match the breeds with the breed characteristic. You can find the answers in the Identification section of your manual. a. Can trot or pace very rapidly and are mainly used for harness racing b. Excellent temperament and inherent cow-
sense. c. Has an unsurpassed reputation for soundness
and stamina d. Are known mainly as racehorses e. Have striped hooves and mottled skin f. All horses of this breed can trace back to a
stallion named ‘Figure’ g. A color breed of 2 distinct patterns – overo
and tobiano
Horse Color Scrapbook (All Levels)
Collect clippings from magazines of pictures of every color of horse mentioned in the reference section. You can make the scrapbook as colorful an fun as you wish, as long at you label each photo with the correct horse color!
__ Arabian ___ Morgan
__ Quarter Horse ___ Appaloosa
__ Saddlebred ___ Thoroughbred
__ Paint
Pin The Parts On The Horse (All Levels)
Have you played Pin The Tail On The Donkey? Now you are going to play Pin The Parts On The Horse. Your leader has the parts to play this game with your project group. How many parts did you get right?
78
Leg Markings (Level 2)
Match the description of leg markings to the proper picture above.
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
____ Half-stocking
____ Coronet
____ Distal spots
____ Pastern
____ Heel
____ Stocking
____ Coronet Heel
79
Breed Word Search (Level 3) Find the breeds listed below the puzzle. Not all of these breeds are discussed in your book. Look them up in other books or on the Internet to see pictures of them. There is a bonus breed on the diagonal. See if you can find it!
Dig it!
Your Horse
What BREED is your horse? ________________________________________ What body TYPE does your horse have?______________________________ What riding events do you LIKE to do with your horse? _________________________________ When you think of these things, think about what your horse could be good at. Some are bred to run fast, some are bred to be quick and agile, some to jump, etc. What is your horse bred to be good at? (Hint: find your breed and type in the manual, and combine the two.) Do you let it try these things? Why or why not ?
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
___________________________________________________________________________
ANDALUSIAN CONNEMARA HAFLINGER SHETLAND
APPALOOSA DON LIPIZZAN SHIRE
BARB EXMORE MORGAN TARPAN
BRUMBY FELL MUSTANG TRAKEHNER
CHINCOTEAGUE FJORD OLDENBURG WELSH
80
Identification Reference Section:
Important Terms
Some breeds of horses change their age on January 1st regardless of when they were really born. Here are some terms to describe the sex and age of a horse.
FOAL: Either male or female, up to one year old Colt: male offspring, up to four years old, or until gelded FILLY: female offspring, up to four years old. MARE: mature female horse (over four years of age, or younger if bred)
Yeld MARE: mature female horse that has never given birth Stallion: male horse that has not been castrated (gelded) Gelding: male horse of any age that has been castrated Yearling: one year old up to two years old Weanling: a FOAL that has been weaned - no longer has access to its mother’s milk (usually at about four to six months of age) - up to 1 year old Aged: any horse, any sex, over 9 or 10 years old DAM: a FOAL’s female parent SIRE: a FOAL’s male parent
A horse’s height is expresses in “HANDS”. It is measured from the ground to the highest point of the withers. Hand measurements are broken down in inches, where one hand equals ten centimetres or four inches.
Colours
A good horseperson needs to know how to describe a horse by its colour and markings. You may have to describe a horse to someone to identify it when you are not there to point to it. When identifying the colour of a horse, the colour of the summer coat is used. In winter, the coat colours may be different.
Albino - An animal that has no pigment in its eyes, skin, hooves or body hair. There are conflicting reports on albinism, some sources say there are no such things as true albinos – they are really white horses.
Bay - Body colour ranges from tan, to red, to reddish-brown. Points (mane, tail, lower legs and the tips of the ears) are black.
Black - Body colour is true black without any light areas. Mane and tail are black.
Brown - Body colour can be shades of brown or black with light areas at the muzzle, eyes, flank, and, or inside the upper legs.
Buckskin - Body colour yellowish or gold. Mane and tail are black or mixed. Other markings can be the same as the dun but most have black on lower legs and ear tips
Chestnut/Sorrel - Body colour ranges from light copper to reddish brown. Mane and tail are usually the same colour as the body, but may be flaxen (straw yellow or dirty white colour caused by a mix-ture of dark hair in with the white).
Dun - Body colour is yellowish, brownish-reddish or gold. Mane, tail and legs are a variation of body colour. The identifying mark is often the DORSAL STRIPE running down the spine and/or zebra stripes on legs and/or transverse stripes over withers.
1 hand=4 inches(10 cm)
81
Grey - Mixture of white and coloured hairs. They are usually born solid coloured, or almost solid coloured, and become lighter with age. They always have dark skin underlying the patches of white hair. Grey includes dappled (variegated with round spots of white) and flea-bitten (small dark spots “sprinkled” over an animal’s coat).
Grulla/Blue Dun - Body colour smokey or mouse coloured to dark grey (not a mixture of coloured and white hairs, but rather each hair is mouse coloured). Usually they have darker lower legs and a DORSAL STRIPE.
Palomino - Body colour is cream to golden yellow. Mane and tail are white.
Pinto - Body colour can be any colour combination with white.
Roan - Any coat colour mixed with white hairs. Common roans include black roan (also known as blue roan), bay roan (black legs, mane and tail) and red roan (has red colored mane, tail and legs).
White - A true white horse is born white and remains white throughout its life. A white horse has snow white hair, pink skin and normally brown eyes.
Parts Of A Horse
http://www.equusite.com/articles/basics/basicsColors.shtml A site with colored pictures of common horse colors.
82
Parts Of A Horse
Barrel: The large area below the back in the general vicinity of the rib cage. This is where the heart, lungs and stomach of the horse are housed.
Buttock: The muscled area below the dock and above the thigh.
CANNON Bone: The long bone between the knee or hock and the fetlock joint.
Cheek: Distinct rounded bones on the sides of the horses jaw.
Chest: The muscled area at the front of the horse below the neck.
Coronet/Coronary Band: Area at the bottom of the pastern where hair stops and hoof growth begins.
Crest: The top line of the neck.
CROUP: The area at the top of the rump and in front of the tail. It extends from the highest part of the hip to the tail.
Dock: The solid part of the horse’s tail, containing the tailbone.
Ears: Two ears located on the top of the horse’s head.
Elbow: The joint at the top of the forearm.
Eyes: Two eyes located on the sides of the skull.
Fetlock: The joint between the long pastern bone and the CANNON.
Flank: The region between the barrel and the hindquarters.
Forearm: The upper part of the foreleg, between the elbow and the knee.
GASKIN: A muscled area of the hind leg, above the hock and below the stifle.
Head: Includes the area from the muzzle to the poll.
Knee: The joint of the front leg below the forearm and above the CANNON bone.
Loin: The short muscled area joining the back to the CROUP.
Muzzle: Describes the area including the nostrils, chin and mouth.
Neck: Muscled area from the poll to the withers attaching the head to the body.
Nostril: The part of the muzzle through which the horse breathes.
Pastern: The area above the coronet band and below the fetlock joint.
Point of the Buttock: Is the highest point of the buttock at the extreme rear of the animal.
Point of the Hip: The bony point lying just forward and below the CROUP.
Point of the Hock: The most prominent part of the hock at the back.
Point of the Shoulder: The bony point at the extreme lower end of the shoulder blade, just above and to the side of the chest.
83
Poll: A point between the ears at the top of the head where the head joins the neck.
Shoulder: The area of the horse’s front quarters where the front leg is attached to the body with muscles and tendons.
Stifle: Is a joint at the front of the thigh in the flank area.
Thigh: The large muscled area below the CROUP, below and in front of the buttock and behind the stifle joint.
Throat Latch: The area behind the jaw where the head attaches to the neck.
Withers: The prominent ridge near the base of the mane where the neck and back join.
Markings
The following diagrams show the markings commonly found on the head and legs of the horse, and the terms which are used to describe them.
Face Markings
SNIP - a small white spot on the nose.
Stripe - a narrow white mark down the face anywhere between eyes and nostrils.
Blaze - a wide white mark down the face from the forehead down to the nostrils.
Bald Face - a very broad blaze - can extend out around the eyes and down to the upper lip and around the nostrils and, or past the eyes.
Star - a small white mark on the forehead
84
Leg Markings
Ermine - black or brown spots within the coronet band. Bird Catcher Spots - dime sized white spots on a horse’s body.
Heel - white spot on the bulb of the heel.
Distal Spots - white spots on the coronet band.
Coronet Heel or Half Coronet - white spot or partial coronet.
Coronet - white strip covering the coronet band.
Half Pastern - white extends up halfway on the pastern.
Ankle/Pastern - white extends from coronet to and including the fetlock.
Half Stocking/Sock - white to halfway up the CANNON bone.
Stocking - white up to the hock or knee
85
Horse Body Types
All horses fit into one of the five following body types.
Muscling is one way to tell what body type a horse is. The length and volume of muscling that the horse should possess is determined by the body type and the breed of the horse.
Draft Type
Clydesdale, Shire, Belgian, Percheron etc. Heavy muscles, large frame, large boned Mostly used for pulling and driving Draft type horses need more muscle compared to
other horses because they are bred for strength and power.
Stock Type
Quarter Horse, Paint, Appaloosa etc. Well-muscled, deep bodied Mostly used for short-distance racing, ranch work, trail riding, roping, reining, cutting, pleasure and gymkhana events In the stock type horse, muscle is required for power and quick starts as well as speed and suppleness.
Saddle (Gaited) Type
Tennessee Walker, American Saddlebred, Standardbred etc. Long muscles, longer neck and body, higher set arching neck, higher
tail carriage, often more animated movement Mostly used for pleasure, driving, endurance and trail These horses have a lot of muscle. They have long bodies that are
needed for speed, endurance, and flexibility.
Sport Horse Type
Thoroughbred, Warm bloods, Hanoverian and Trakhener etc. Larger, longer bodies, deeper heart GIRTH and longer muscled Mostly used for racing, jumping, cross-country, three day eventing,
dressage, pleasure, and endurance Muscle is needed for speed, endurance and suppleness in these types
of horses.
Pony Type Welsh, Shetland PONY, etc. 14.2 HANDS or less, usually resemble stock type or saddle type breeds Generally shorter neck and body Used primarily for children’s mounts and driving These horses are primarily distinguished by their body height.
86
Breeds
There are approximately 20 breed associations in Canada. The registration papers require identification of the parents of the horse, sketches or pictures and a de-scription of the horse plus the horse’s colour and markings and perhaps measure-ments.
Some popular breeds of horses are:
Appaloosa - The Appaloosa is descended from the Spanish horses bred by the Nez Perce Indians and is quickly recognized by its unique colour pattern. Irregular spotting of black (or brown) and white, either over the loin and hips or the entire
body. The Appaloosa is a specific breed with very clearly defined colour ranges. They may have mot-tled skin (pink and black), striped hooves and may have a white sclera (white area around the iris of the eyes). There also may be Appaloosas with solid body colours.
Appaloosa Coat Patterns include: Blanket - a solid or roan-coloured base coat, with a large, irregular patch of white over the hindquarters. Blanket with spots - like the blanket, but with scattered spots of various sizes. The spots may be the same colour as the base coat. Leopard - white base coat, with dark spots scattered over the body. Snowflake - dark base coat with white spots over the hindquarters and, or body. Solid or Solid with Regular Markings - may have mottled skin, white sclera and striped hooves.
Arabian - Bred by the Arabs to carry them swiftly over long distances with a minimum of feed and water, the Arabian horse has an unsurpassed reputation for soundness and stamina. The Arabian is a very attractive horse with its dis-tinctive, dished face and proud carriage. It is usually solid bay, chestnut, black or grey in colour.
Belgian- Belgians range in height from 16 to 18 HANDS and weigh 2000 to 2600 pounds. In North America they are predominately sorrel or blonde in colour with flaxen to white manes and tails. Roan is the other common col-our. Originally developed in Belgium to meet agricultural draft needs, the massive and powerful Belgians are known for their patience and docility.
Canadian - A versatile horse exhibiting excellent CONFORMATION, working ability and durability combined with a kind and willing temperament. The Canadian measures between 14 h.h and 16 h.h. and weighs 1000 – 1400 pounds. They are usually black but can be brown, bay or chestnut. Charac-teristics include a finely chiseled head, upright or arching back and abundant wavy mane and tail. They are used for riding and driving.
87
Clydesdale - The lightest of the draft horse breeds is the Clydesdale. It has been bred for style, power and ACTION. The breed originated in Scotland and averages 17 to 19 HANDS and 1800 to 2200 pounds. The Clydesdale is usually bay or brown in colour with white markings on the legs, face and body. The breed is recognized by the long silky hair, or feathering, that covers its lower legs and down over its hooves. (The Shire breed also has feathering). Connemara - The Connemara originated in Ireland. This performance PONY is noted for its CONFORMATION, tremendous agility and jumping ability. It is an excellent riding PONY, possessing great strength, free-going movement and superb balance. Spirited but sensible, courageous but kind, it is an ideal mount for children and adults alike. This PONY is predominantly grey or dun in colour, but can be black, brown or bay and occasionally chestnut or roan. Fjord - The Fjord horse, from Norway, has a dark cream body colour and a distinctive mane and tail which has black hairs down the middle and silver around the outside. They measure 13 – 15 h.h. and weigh 1000 to 1400 pounds. Noted for its strength, soundness and quiet manner, it is used for riding and driving. Irish Draught – The Irish Draught is a result of crossing Thoroughbreds with Irish Farm Horses. They are noted for their strength and substance, athletic ability, intelligence and kindness. Measuring 15 – 17 h. h. They are suitable for light draft, riding and driving. They may be bay, brown, chestnut or gray. Miniatures - Miniature horses are horses under 34 inches high (pure miniatures are 32 inches and under). Morgan - The Morgan breed traces its beginnings back to a single stallion, Figure (This horse was later renamed after its owner - Justin Morgan). This stallion possessed extraordinary strength and speed. The breed’s excellent disposition makes it the choice for mounted police and patrol work. The Morgan is compact and deep bodied, its legs are fine and strong and its head is carried high on a thick crested neck. The Morgan is usually dark brown, bay, chestnut or black in colour.
Paint - The Paint Horse is characterized by a two coloured coat consisting of clearly defined areas of white and either black, red brown, chestnut, grey, dun or roan. It is basically stock in type with Quarter Horse and/or Thoroughbred parentage. Colour patterns vary in percentage of white to coloured portions. They are a pedigree registry with colour specifics.
www.apha.com Very nice descriptions of Paint horse
colours and patterns, as well as clipart.
88
Three of the recognized patterns for the Paint are:
Overo - Colour over the back and on the legs and lots of white on the head.
Tobiano - White over the back and up the legs and a normally marked head.
Tovero - Display of both Overo and Tobiano characteristics.
Paso - The Paso has a natural, high stepping, four-beat lateral gait. The gait, known as termino, gives the rider a very smooth ride. They are tough, hardy and easy to handle. Weighing 900 to 1100 pounds, they measure 14 – 15.2 h.h. They may be bay, chestnut, black, brown or gray. This horse is ridden in all parts of South America, with the most widely known type being the Peruvian Paso.
Percheron - The Percheron stands from 16 to 18 HANDS high, weighs between 2000 and 2400 pounds and is usually black or grey in colour. Imported from France, the Percheron is noted for its considerable knee and hock ACTIONs and its unique walking style.
Quarter Horse - The Quarter Horse combines speed, agility, intelligence, and excellent temperament and an inherent cow-sense, to earn a reputation as the most popular breed of pleasure horse in the world. Developed in North America, the Quarter Horse has a close-coupled and muscular CONFORMATION and an attractive head with prominent jowls. It may be of any solid colour, roan or gray.
Saddlebred - The Saddlebred was developed in Kentucky during the 19th century by plantation owners, who were looking for a horse that provided a comfortable ride for plantation work combined with a stylish eye-catching ACTION in harness. With its high head-carriage and high stepping ACTION it is extremely elegant. Although it is best known as a show horse, the Saddlebred also makes a good general riding and driving horse.
Shetland - The Shetland PONY comes from the Shetland Islands off Northern Scotland. It is thought to be descended from a “dwarf ” Exmoor type. At a maximum height of 10.2 HANDS it is the smallest of the native breeds yet relative to its size it is the strongest PONY in the world. Its size makes it ideal for small children, though its headstrong and independent character demands firm, kind, handling to keep it under
control.
Standardbred - Standardbred horses are used primarily for harness racing, either as pacers (moving the front and hind legs of the same side together) or trotters (moving the front leg of one side at the same time as the hind leg of the opposite side). They also make good pleasure and driving horses.
Tennessee Walker - The Tennessee Walking Horse is a gaited horse. It is most distinguished by its running WALK that is a four beat gait. This even gait is fast and comfortable to ride.
www.ansi.okstate.edu/breeds/horses/
This website has excellent pictures and information about many breeds of horses
89
Thoroughbred - The Thoroughbred horse has been bred for speed and stamina. Its long-bodied, deep-chested, angular CONFORMATION enables it to run long distances at a fast speed. All Thoroughbreds descended from Arabian and Barb ancestors.
Warmbloods (Such as the Hanovarian, Oldenburg, Holstein, Westphalian, Dutch Warmblood, Trakehner, etc.) – Developed in various parts of Europe, warmbloods are noted more for their strength than their speed, hence the many successes in dressage and show jumping. They were originally developed as all-purpose work horses. Warmbloods of all breeds are known for their clean cut lines, strong well-muscled bodies and well-formed hard hooves.
Welsh - The Welsh PONY is a compact, sturdy PONY. They have arched necks with short, but very strong, bodies. Strength, hardiness and agility combined with a gentle temperament make it suitable for harness or riding. They are categorized by these sections based on height: Section A – Welsh Mountain PONY – less than 12 h.h. (smallest) Section B - Welsh PONY – 13 h.h. and under Section C – Welsh PONY of Cob type – 13.2 h.h. and under Section D – Welsh Cob – Over 13.2 h.h. (largest)
Hybrid Crosses
Hybrid crosses between horses and donkeys are popular for pack horses, trail and pleasure riding. Hybrid crosses are sterile.
Mule - The mule is a cross between a Jack (male donkey) and a MARE (female horse). Hinny - A hinny is a cross between a stallion (male horse) and a Jenny (female donkey).
90
Skill Builder 7: Riding
SKILLS CHECKLIST
Equus says… One thing to remember before you start riding your horse, is to never kick and pull at the same time. This is a common mistake. Make sure your reins are short enough that you have good con-trol, but that you are not pulling at it’s mouth and hurting it.
Level Required Skill Activities
L1 Demonstrate with your own hands and feet the footfall sequence of a horse at the WALK and JOG/TROT.
Riding Class
Riding Wonders
Let’s Ride!
Riding Questions II
TACK Relay Race
Trouble Time
Riding Away
4-H Trivia Crossword
Riding Choices
TACK Description
Rhythm Beads Craft
Riding GAITS
Patterns
L1 Unsaddle and unbridle your horse. (Smaller members should be able to explain correct methods even if they are not able to do it entirely.)
L1 Demonstrate how to correctly put your TACK away after riding.
L2 Demonstrate with your own hands and feet the footfall sequence of the WALK, jog/trot, lope/CANTER and back.
L2 Saddle and Bridle your horse. (Smaller members should be able to explain correct methods even if they are not able to do it entirely and may need some help).
L2 Identify five parts of the saddle and three parts of the bridle.
L2 While watching a horse being trotted, identify which DIAGONAL the rider is on.
L2 While watching a horse being ridden at a lope/CANTER, recognize which lead the horse is on.
L2 Describe the cues you would give your horse to ask him to LOPE. Also describe the cues you would give to ask for the correct lead.
L3 Demonstrate with your own hands and feet the footfall sequence of the WALK, JOG/TROT, LOPE/CANTER, GALLOP and back.
L3 Identify all the parts of a saddle and bridle.
L3 Explain and demonstrate the proper cleaning and care of TACK.
L3 Describe a SNAFFLE bit and how it works and when to use it. Describe a leverage bit, how it works and when to use it.
91
Dream it! You have been wanting to ride a horse for as long as you can remember. Finally, someone tacks up a horse for you, you put on your helmet and boots and you are ready to ride. Now what? How do you get on? How do you make it go forward? Backward? Turn? Suddenly it is confusing and you realize that it is time to learn how to ride. Does this sound like you or someone you know? Have you had trouble getting your horse to understand what you want? What type of bit are you using and why? Explain the difference between a trot and a LOPE.
Do it!
Riding Class (All Levels)
As a group, go outside onto the lawn, or use a large room, wherever you prefer, and space your-selves out in a large circle. Your leader will stand in the middle of your circle, and act as the judge. As they call out GAITS, you will demonstrate the correct footfall beats for the gait your leader is calling out.
If you have never seen a riding class, then watch the link below! It demonstrates an English Pleasure class were you can see that the judge stands in the middle, and the riders ride around in a circle at the different GAITS being called out.
Riding Wonders (All levels)
After reading over this section of your manual, begin a journal entry below. Add to it each year that you use this manual.
It might be a good idea to start a separate journal of your own that you write in regularly to keep track of your riding times and what has gotten better and what still needs work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4QMbKmAFjSw
Year:
92
Let’s Ride! (Level 2)
Use the words from the word list to complete the following paragraph.
Before you mount your horse, check that the _____________________ is tight and the
___________________ will not slip. Hold the reins in your _________________ hand and place
it on your horse’s ___________________. Put your ___________________ foot into the
stirrup. Your right hand should grasp the ____________________. Bounce lightly on your
_________________ foot and swing your body upwards. Swing your right leg over the
__________________ and gently lower yourself into the ________________. Put your
____________________ foot into the ___________________. Sit up ___________________
and _______________________. Remove your hand from the ___________________. Your
left hand will hold the reins a little above and in front of the ________________. Let’s ride!
Riding Questions (Level 2)
1. When you’re helping someone to saddle a horse English-style and you’re asked to pass the numnah. What is it? a. A soft pad that goes under the saddle b. A delicious horse treat c. A metal bit that goes into the horse’s mouth
2. In which event would a rider use an English saddle? a. Jumping b. Racing c. Western Pleasure d. Roping
3. Which piece of tack helps the rider balance while riding? a. Bridle b. Bit c. Saddle d. Reins
4. A horse's headgear is made up of … a. Saddle blankets and a saddle b. Horse ears, eyes, and nose c. Bridle, bit, reins d. The bit and chin strap
inch left right hindquarters
CINCH
right stirrup saddle withers
left horn straight horn tall
93
Tack Relay Race (All Levels)
Review the parts of the western and English saddles and bridles. Divide into two teams, an English team and a Western team. Post sticky notes labeled with English saddle and bridle parts in a group on a wall, and do the same for Western saddle and bridle parts. Place a Western saddle and bridle under the Western sticky notes, and an English saddle and bridle under the English sticky notes.
This is a relay race so get into two lines a fair distance away from the wall. The first member in each line will run to the wall, grab a random sticky note, and place it on the correct part. They then run back and tag the next person who does the same until all of the sticky notes are placed correctly on the saddles and bridles.
After you're finished, switch teams so that each gets a chance to label both sets of equipment.
Trouble Time! (Level 1)
This picture could wear the title “Trouble”. Find at least five “unsafe” examples. After that, describe what you think this horse is feeling and explain what this rider should do to make his ride safe. Last of all, colour this horse in your favorite horse colours and markings.
94
Riding Away (Level 1)
It is a good idea to yell “whoa” at your horse when teaching it to stop.
GOOD HANDS maintain light, steady, soft contact.
Pressure from your legs can control your horse’s hindquarters as well as his movement forward.
Backing is actually walking in reverse.
You should never ask for a half-halt in a circle.
An upward transition means changing gait while going up a hill.
When leading your horse, you should walk halfway between the head and the shoulder.
When turning your horse loose in a corral, just slip his halter off and chase him away from you.
Never tie your horse to a wire fence.
When approaching your horse in a tie stall, you should first speak to your horse so he knows you are there.
When riding with two hands, your inside hand is controlling your direction while your outside hand controls the speed.
When saddling your horse, it is not necessary to check the CINCH before MOUNTING.
As soon as you DISMOUNT from your English saddle you should run up your stirrups.
English riders are required to do both a “sitting trot” and a “rising trot”.
In the western discipline, the CANTER is known as the “LOPE”.
If the weather is hot, it is okay to wear running shoes when riding.
All saddles are built on trees.
Indicate T for True or F for False for each of the statements
95
Tack Description (Level 3)
You should be able to describe your tack in case it goes missing or is lost in an accident. Complete this basic form for your tack descriptions.
Dig it!
Rhythm Beads Craft
Rhythm beads are a fun, easy project to make! Some trainers claim that they are more than just pretty! They help your horse improve it’s cadence (steady rhythm) and keep it calm. You can make them short, to hang in the mane, or longer, to hang around the neck, or both. All the supplies can be found at your local dollar store. Old beads may be used. Supplies:
Alligator clips or some way to attach to the mane Thin wire or heavy cording Beads, bells, etc for decorating
It might be easier to attach the clips to an elastic band in the mane. Search the Internet for ‘rhythm beads’ for more descriptions. Click on ‘images’ in the search results to get more images.
Basic Tack Descriptions
My Name:
My Club:
Quantity Description Total Value $
Ex: 2 Nylon reins $70
Total value:
96
Riding Gaits
It can be difficult to understand what your horse is doing while you are learning to ride. For this activity, concentrate on watching someone else’s horse so that you can learn to identify AIDS and GAITS.
Watch another horse being ridden in a riding ring. Be prepared to discuss these questions with your leader, a senior member or your project group. 1. Identify what gait the rider is on as s(he) changes GAITS. 2. Identify which DIAGONAL the rider is POSTING on. 3. Explain what the legs look like at the canter/LOPE. 4. Identify the lead the horse is on. 5. Explain how the rider is asking the horse to change GAITS (WALK to LOPE, LOPE to stop, etc.)
Patterns
Set up a simple riding pattern using cones or empty milk cartons as markers. You can get ideas from www.showhorsepromotions.com or make up your own.
Below is a sample that you could start with. When reading a pattern, always follow the WRITTEN directions. In the following pattern, try jogging for Step 2 instead of loping until your horse is good at it and willing to stop at each marker.
Before you begin, think about what you think your horse may have trouble with. Plan ahead and decide what you can do to try to help out. It might be to move the cones further apart or to take your time and just try part of the pattern at first before riding the whole pattern.
Once you have a plan, ride your pattern. Think about what happened. Did your horse have difficulty? Ride the same pattern several times. If it is getting easier for you and your horse, your plan must be working. If it is not, you need to change your plan and try a different approach.
What did you learn from this activity? Did you enjoy helping your horse through a pattern? Did you remain patient and help your horse when it was confused?
1. Begin at A. (Marker will be on your right). 2. LOPE on the left lead to B. Stop. 3. Turn on the haunches to the right until you are facing marker C. 4. JOG to C. Stop. 5. Back up 4 steps.
97
Riding Reference Section:
Gaits
The gait of a horse refers to the different patterns that a horse’s feet make as they touch the ground. The common gaits for horses are the WALK, TROT, CANTER and GALLOP. Sometimes we use different terms for a particular gait. For example, the western horse jogs and lopes while the English trots and canters. Some breeds called gaited breeds pace and rack. For example: Standardbreds pace – a two beat gait where the horse moves the legs on the same side together. Stride The term used to measure the distance covered between two successive steps of the same hoof in any gait. When a horse lengthens its stride it reaches further with each leg.
Walk
The WALK has a four (4) beat rhythm. The steps should be even and regular so that the rider can evenly count, 'one- two- three- four, one- two- three- four'. Each foot is picked up and set down in sequence. The horse always has two or three hooves on the ground. The WALK is the slowest natural gait. It is the steadiest and most comfortable. The horse’s back is level at the WALK. The WALK should look calm, regular and purposeful.
Jog/Trot
The jog/trot has a two (2) beat rhythm. The rider can count, 'one-two, one-two, one-two'. This gait has a moment of suspension (time in the air) when all four legs are off the ground. DIAGONAL (opposite) front and hind feet move forward at the same time. This is called a diagonal movement. The horse’s back has a regular up and down movement at a trot/JOG. When trotting, POSTING can make it more comfortable for the rider and the horse. The trot should look and feel calm and rhythmic, but active.
98
Canter/Lope
The CANTER/LOPE is a three (3) beat gait. The rider can evenly count, 'one-two-three, one-two-three, one-two three', with a silent moment between strides. This gait starts with the hind leg then leads to the front in a rocking motion. You sit the CANTER by keeping your seat in the saddle. The horse should look and feel light on his feet.
When a horse lopes/canters it reaches further in front with one front leg which is called the lead. To be properly balanced on turns and circles, a horse naturally and/or with training should pick up the inside lead. Hind legs should take the same leading ACTIONs as the front. When the front and hind legs are not on the same lead, it is called cross firing/cross cantering.
A horse is said to be counter-cantering when he is cantering to the left with the right foreleg
leading, or to the right with the left foreleg leading.
Gallop
The GALLOP is the horse’s fastest gait and is a four (4) beat gait. This gait is similar to the CANTER, but the horse's legs move one at a time. The body of a horse is more stretched out when it gallops than with any other gait. Race horses GALLOP. When riding the GALLOP, raise your seat slightly out of the saddle,
putting your weight in your heels.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horse_gait Visit this website to view some different horse gaits in moving images.
99
Tack
All equipment should be stored where it will remain dry and out of the sunlight. Check your equipment regularly for loose threads, weak glue and any screws or bolts that are coming out.
Parts of a Western Saddle
http://www.completerider.com/learn/westernsaddles/saddlepartswt.html
This website has n interactive way to learn the parts of a Western saddle.
Equus says… Western saddles ALWAYS have a horn. English saddles NEVER have a horn. If ever you see a saddle, and are unsure exactly which is which, just keep that tip in mind.
100
Parts of an English Saddle
Headstalls and Bits
Headstalls come in two main styles: Browband or Split-Eared. Unlike western bridles, English bridles include a noseband. Whether they are English or Western, there are basically three types of bits; the SNAFFLE, the
curb and the Pelham. There are many variations of each.
Use the softest bit in your horse’s mouth that you can. He will work
better for you and be happier. A thick SNAFFLE bit is the softest working bit you can use. With a curb
bit, the higher the port and the longer the shank, the more severe it will be.
This website has an interactive way to learn the parts of an English sad-dle. http://www.completerider.com/learn/engsaddles/saddleparts.html
SNAFFLE Curb Pelham
101
Bridles
Sad-dle Blan-kets and Pads
Saddle blankets and pads protect the horse’s back, keep the lining of the saddle clean, absorb moisture and compensate for a saddle that does not fit well.
English riders use a light pad called a Numnah which is the same shape as the saddle and flaps. Because Western saddles are heavier, a thicker blanket or pad is needed
Numnah Western Saddle Pad
Blankets or pads made from natural fibres (such as felt or wool) work better than synthetic fibres, but they are more difficult to clean and manage.
English Western
http://extension.missouri.edu/publications/
DisplayPub.aspx?P=G2881
Saddling, Bridling and Riding the Western Horse
102
Saddling
Tie your horse securely with a halter. Never tie a horse with the bridle reins. GROOM your horse well to remove all straw or other bedding from its hair.
Always be sure to brush the back, withers and area where the GIRTH will be fastened.
Shake out the saddle blanket or pad before you place it on your horse to be sure that there are no straw or twigs on it.
Western Saddling
1. Set the blanket on your horse, ahead of where you want it and then pull it back into place, smoothing out the hair underneath. If using two blankets, place the top blanket back about 2.5 centimetres (one inch) from the front of the bottom blanket. This will help to hold the blankets in place.
2. On the saddle, lift the right stirrup and CINCH out of the way so that you don’t have to lift the saddle as high and they won’t get caught under the saddle. Hook the right stirrup on the horn of the saddle.
3. Lift the saddle by grasping the gullet and centre of the back of the saddle. Lift it high and set the saddle gently on your horse’s back. Settle it into place by rocking it back and forth. Lift the blanket up under the gullet of the saddle to improve the ventilation under the blanket and check to see that the saddle blanket is even on both sides and has at least four to eight centimetres (two to four inches) in front of the saddle.
4. Go to the right side of your horse and set down the stirrup and CINCH, ensuring that the CINCH is not twisted. Be careful that the CINCH doesn’t fall down and bang your horse’s leg.
5. Go back to the left side and lift the stirrup out of your way. Standing near the left shoulder of your horse, reach under the GIRTH of your horse to pull the CINCH towards you. Make two wraps with the latigo and tie (as illustrated) or buckle the CINCH using the tongue in the CINCH ring, be sure to lock it by pulling down on the top wrap of the latigo. Tighten it so you can fit three fingers (inserted flat) between the CINCH and your horse’s belly. If you are tightening a CINCH on a strange horse watch for signs of uneasiness. A “cinchy” horse can be very dangerous (they will often throw themselves over backwards or sink to the ground in a panic attack).
6. If you have a back CINCH, always do it up last, fastened so two to three fingers will fit (inserted sideways) between the CINCH and your horse’s belly. Check to ensure that a hobble strap is attached tying the back CINCH to the front CINCH. This keeps the back CINCH from flapping back into the back areas of your horse.
7. If you have a breast collar, attach it and tighten it so that a fist can fit between the breast collar and the point of shoulder.
8. Walk your horse and recheck the tightness of the CINCH before MOUNTING.
Reverse for right handed saddler
103
English Saddling
1. Make sure that the stirrup irons are pushed up and that the GIRTH is undone on both sides of the saddle and is lying on the seat of the saddle, dirty side up, with buckles pushed through the stirrups.
2. Hold the saddle on your left arm with the pommel facing towards your elbow. 3. Stand at your horse’s left shoulder and with your right hand, lay the saddle pad on the horse’s
withers, making sure that it is flat and that the straps are on top. 4. Slide the saddle pad into place by pulling it slightly towards the rear in the direction of the
horse’s hair. The saddle pad should be the right size for the saddle being used. 5. Grasp the saddle with your right hand on the CANTLE and your left hand on the pommel and
place it on the saddle pad which is sitting on your horse. 6. Attach the straps of the saddle pad to the GIRTH straps on both sides of the saddle and check
that the knee rolls and saddle flaps on both sides are flat. 7. Slide the saddle and adjust the pad so that there is no friction nor pressure on the withers,
lifting the pad into the gullet of the saddle for ventilation. 8. Walk around the horse to its far side and fasten the end of the GIRTH to the GIRTH straps
on the right side of the saddle. There are normally three billet straps on an English saddle. It is common to fasten the buckles to the two outside straps, leaving the center one undone. If a horse is built in such a way that the saddle slides forward, it is recommended to fasten the GIRTH buckles to the front two GIRTH straps on the saddle.
9. Return to the NEAR SIDE and stand at your horse’s left shoulder. Face the rear of your horse and bend over to grasp the loose end of the GIRTH with your left hand.
10. Pull the GIRTH through the loop of your martingale or breastplate (if you are using one). Any such loops should be positioned at the center of the GIRTH.
11. Bring the GIRTH up, well back of your horse’s elbow, buckle it in the same manner as the OFF SIDE, tightening it slightly. You will need to tighten it more before MOUNTING.
Equus says... You must always run your stirrups up on an English saddle,. You cannot do it on a western saddle because of it’s size, weight, and design, but an English saddle is meant to be compact and light.
104
Smoothing Out the Wrinkles
After saddling, you should pull the horse’s forelegs forward from the knee to smooth out and bring forward the skin underneath the CINCH. This will help to prevent pinching and galling. Bend the leg forward at the knee by clasping your hands behind the knee and lifting the leg one at a time. You can also achieve the same result by leading your horse in a tight circle in both directions.
Mounting
Western 1. Lead your horse to a safe place for MOUNTING. Check your
equipment to ensure that it is all adjusted correctly (CINCH, throatlatch and chin strap).
2. Stand on the left side of your horse and face either the same direction as the horse or face the horse and use peripheral vision to see the horse’s head. By watching the eyes and ears of your horse, you can see if it’s going to shy or bolt when you mount.
3. Take up the reins in your left hand, tight enough to keep your horse from stepping forward. If you ride with one hand, hold the reins appropriately, with the loose ends of your reins falling on the NEAR SIDE. If you will be riding with two hands, cross the reins over the horse’s neck.
4. Place your left hand on the neck in front of the withers. 5. Grasp the saddle horn with your right hand. (You may use your
right hand to steady the stirrup until your left foot is in it.) 6. Keep your knee close to the horse and do not allow the left toe
to poke the horse. 7. Push off with your right leg so that you’ve lifted yourself to a
standing position with all your weight in the left stirrup. 8. Pass your right leg over the saddle without touching your horse.
Now, sit down gently in the saddle. 9. Put your right foot in the stirrup without leaning over to guide it
in with your hands. 10. Take up the reins and adjust them. 11. Do not let the horse move while you are MOUNTING. If the
horse is allowed to walk off before you are properly settled in the saddle, it will develop a dangerous habit of doing so each time you mount.
Equus says…
If your horse moves when you first mount up, go back to basics. It needs to understand the one-rein stop. Then, when it moves while you are MOUNTING, simply pull the one rein around and it will know to stop. Keep its head there for a few seconds, and then release. If it moves off again, repeat. Eventually your horse will stand still until you tell it to go.
Another important thing is NOT to ask it to GO as soon as you get on. Always sit and relax for 60 seconds or more without asking it to move forward. Do some gentle flexing if you wish but don’t let it move its feet. Soon the horse will stop anticipating a forward command as soon as you get on and will be more likely to stand still for you.
105
English 1. Before MOUNTING be sure to check that your GIRTH is snug. 2. Take up the reins in the left hand and place that hand on the withers. 3. Facing the rear of the horse, grasp the stirrup with the right hand and insert the left foot into the
stirrup. Place your right hand either on the far side of the saddle or on the pommel and spring up lightly.
4. Swing the right leg over, making sure it does not touch the horse’s body.
5. The rider should sit comfortably in the saddle. Drop the legs to their full extended length and adjust the irons so that when hanging loose they will strike just below the ankle bone for flat classes or just above the ankle for jumping classes.
6. Place the feet in the irons resting on the ball of the foot.
7. Place both hands on the reins. They should be slightly apart and are held above the horse’s wither. 8. The BIGHT (or excess rein) may fall on either side of the horse’s neck.
Dismounting
Western 1. Hold the reins with your left hand (as you did for MOUNTING). 2. Ensure your left foot is properly placed in the stirrup. When you DISMOUNT, you want the
weight of your body to be on the ball of your foot. If your foot is pushed too far forward, there is a danger of not being able to quickly free your foot from the stirrup.
3. Put your right hand on the horn. 4. Remove your right foot from the stirrup and swing it over the saddle. Briefly bring both of your
legs together. 5. Lightly step down from the horse, facing the same direction as the horse with the reins still in
your left hand. (Remove your left foot from the stirrup as your right foot touches the ground). 6. Closed reins or a ROMAL should be brought forward over the horse’s head after dismounting. 7. If you are using split reins, take them both down and hold them in a manner similar to a halter
shank. 8. Slightly loosen the CINCH to let the horse relax, breath freely and to allow the heat from its
body to dissipate.
106
English
1. Hold the reins with your left hand (as you did for MOUNTING) and place your hand on the horse’s withers. 2. Grasp the pommel with your right hand. 3. Remove both feet from the stirrups. 4. Bend the upper body slightly forward.
5. Carefully swing your right leg back over the saddle without bumping the horse. 6. Bring your legs together. 7. Let your body slide to the ground, keeping the reins in your left hand. 8. Bring the reins over your horse’s head. 9. Run your stirrups up and loosen the GIRTH to allow your horse to relax and breathe freely.
Vaulting follows the same steps as sliding down from the horse, except the rider kicks both feet out from the stirrups and pushes from the horse. The rider lands on the ground with both feet, a short distance from the side of the horse.
Unsaddling
The steps for taking any saddle off a horse are the same as for saddling, only done in reverse order. Some important points to remember:
Western
1. First undo any auxiliary equipment that attaches to the saddle (martingale, breast collar). 2. If you have a back CINCH, be sure to undo it first, before the front CINCH. 3. Once you have undone any cinches, tie them up on the far side so they will not drag in the dirt. 4. Do not pull the saddle over the wither without lifting the saddle as you remove it as this would
cause discomfort for your horse. English
1. Push up both stirrup irons as high as possible on the stirrup leathers and pull the stirrup leathers through the stirrup irons.
2. Unbuckle the GIRTH on both sides, lay it over the saddle, dirty side up, and pass the ends through the irons on each side.
For both Western and English saddles, remove the saddle and saddle blanket (or pad) together. Store your saddle in a natural position with the blanket (or pad) on top, lying with its dirty side up so that it has a chance to dry for its next use. Wash the pad often.
107
Bridling
There are two accepted methods of bridling a horse. Some horses may respond better to one method than the other.
Method One 1. Untie your horse. 2. Undo the halter buckle and slip the halter off your horse’s nose and buckle it
around your horse’s neck. 3. Hold your bridle with your left hand, laying the reins over your left arm or
shoulder so they won’t get in the way or place the reins over the horse’s head around the neck to keep them from falling on the ground.
4. Place your right hand over the poll of your horse between his ears, and grasp the crownpiece of the bridle.
5. With your left hand, spread the bit between your thumb and second finger. Push your thumb inside his mouth to encourage the horse to open it. While pulling the bridle up with your right hand, gently place the bit in the horse’s mouth. Open the mouth by inserting your thumb in the interdental space (where the lips end). Pull up on the bridle until the bit rests on the bars of your horse’s mouth.
6. Change hands and hold the crownpiece up and in front of your horse’s ears with your left hand. Gently pull the headstall over the ears, one ear at a time, guiding the ears forward under the crownpiece with your right hand. Folding the ears forward, when placing equipment over them, is gentler on their ears.
7. Adjust the brow band so that it is straight and buckle up the throatlatch (if you have either of these). Between the throatlatch and your horse’s throat, you should be able to fit three to four fingers (or a fist sideways).
8. Fasten the CAVESSON or noseband on an English bridle so that one or two fingers can be inserted between the CAVESSON and the nose, with CAVESSON inside the bridle cheek pieces.
9. If using a curb chain or strap, adjust it so that it is not twisted and so that two fingers can be inserted between the strap and the horse’s jaw.
10. Undo the halter and place it in a safe place.
Method Two This method is often used by shorter riders with tall horses OR for harder to bridle horses (to allow more head control)
This is the same as Method One, except place your right arm under your horse’s jaw, around its nose and grasp the cheek pieces of the bridle (Step 4). Remember to pull up with your right hand.
Safety Tip: Improper bridling and unbridling can cause HEAD SHYness. When removed too quickly the bit can catch on the horse’s teeth. Consequently, he throws his head up and pulls away, temporarily avoiding the unpleasantness.
108
Unbridling
1. Buckle a halter around your horse’s neck, just behind its ears, so that you have control if it tries to move away. 2. Place the lead shank and reins over your left arm, being careful not to have them dragging on the ground. 3. Unbuckle the throatlatch and noseband (if you have one). 4. Hold the crownpiece of the bridle in your hand. Remove it, one ear at a time, by gently pulling the crownpiece; first over one ear, then over the other. 5. Once the ears are released from the crownpiece, continue holding tension on the bridle with your hand to hold the bit in your horse’s mouth. 6. Slowly release the tension on the bridle and allow the bit to slip gently out of
your horse’s mouth. Be careful that the bit does not bang any teeth. 7. Once the bit is out of the mouth, hold the bridle in your left hand and continue to halter your
horse.
Western: Hang the bridle exactly as it would sit on your horse’s head if the horse were facing you with the reins crossed over his neck.
English: Hang the bridle as you would the western bridle, except the CAVESSON and throatlatch are done up and the reins go behind the bit, inside the CAVESSON and are buckled over the throatlatch.
Body Position
No matter what your style of riding is, having a good balanced position is important. Sit “tall in the saddle.” Don’t slump. There should be a straight line from your shoulder, through your hip (the seam on your jeans), to
your heel. Your upper calf should have a light grip on the horse. Your foot should be turned out slightly in a natural position with the weight on the ball of your
foot (without pushing). Your heel should be lower than your toe to allow more flexibility in your ankle. Your hand and arms should be relaxed and supple with your elbows in close to your body. You should hold your reins just above and in front of the saddle horn or pommel. Keep your head up and look where you are going. The weight of your head is noticeable to the
horse and the horse will usually go in the direction you are looking. For example, you can ride in a circle with minimal leg or rein pressure, by just looking to the centre of the circle.
English Western
109
Safety for Hunt Seat Riders:
http://extension.missouri.edu/explorepdf/agguides/ansci/g02882.pdf
110
AIDS
Horses are trained to respond to the basic AIDS that include: 1. Weight 2. Legs 3. Voice 4. Hands
1. Weight (Seat): Your horse will try to stay in balance under you. Leaning your body slightly forward encourages the horse to move faster while a slight shift back encourages it to slow down or stop.
2. Legs: Your legs are used to control your horse’s movement forward and to control its hindquarters. They are also used to bend the horse’s body for turning. The lower leg needs to be kept still when you ride so that the leg AIDS will be most effective when applied. As the horse learns more about leg pressure, it will require less cuing from the reins.
3. Voice: Your voice can be a very important aid since horses can easily learn words such as “whoa,” “easy” and “back.” Work calmly and quietly with your horse, being consistent in the tone of voice you use.
4. Hand(s): “GOOD HANDS” are described as steady, light, soft and firm in their ACTIONs, never hard or jerking. To develop GOOD HANDS you must learn to ride in balance with your horse. Whether you ride English or Western, it is important to learn to ride with two hands – especially for schooling your horse. Two acceptable ways of holding the reins in western style with a shank bit:
In circles and turns, the inside hand asks for direction with a flexing “give and take” motion while the outside hand controls the speed and bending of the horse.
111
Stopping
Timing is very important when asking for a stop. It is a good idea to give your horse a voice CUE such as “whoa” first. Then squeeze with your legs and use a firm flexing (give and take) of the reins. Sit tall and deep in your saddle, gripping with your thighs. Push down on the heels. Do not throw your weight back and pull on the reins. Backing
You should be sitting erect in the saddle with your weight just slightly forward. As you squeeze lightly with your legs, apply light rein pressure to prevent the horse from going forward. With the horse collected, use the voice CUE “back” and flex the reins gently and continue to squeeze with your legs. This is asking for forward motion but in reverse.
Applying the AIDS The Walk 1. The walk is a four beat gait where your horse should walk out freely. 2. To CUE for the walk, settle into your position in the saddle; take up the reins lightly and squeeze
with your legs. This asks your horse to get prepared for some ACTION. 3. As you feel the horse become collected you release some pressure on the reins and squeeze just
enough to ask the horse to move forward. The Jog (Western)
1. This is a two beat gait that should be ridden with your seat deep in the saddle and just enough weight on your ankles to absorb some of the motion.
2. To CUE for a slow JOG, apply more leg pressure and maintain just enough rein pressure to hold your horse at the speed you want.
3. You should shorten your reins somewhat because your horse’s head rises when it jogs. 4. Your arms should remain close to your body with your hands relaxed, flexing lightly with your
horse’s mouth. 5. Keep your elbows close to your body. 6. Your feet and legs should remain steady with the heel down.
Equus say...
Backing is not natural to the horse so be very patient and ask for one step at a time, rewarding your horse as you progress. Remember to keep your hands low to encour-age the horse to flex at the poll and tuck in its nose. If your horse does not want to back, you may try holding one rein steady while using a gentle give and take motion with the other. (Do not “see-saw”).
112
The Trot (English)
1. English riders use both a “sitting trot” and “rising trot.” 2. The trot is a two beat gait and may be performed slowly or quickly. 3. To CUE for the trot, apply leg pressure to urge the horse forward. At the same time, your hands should give with the movement allowing the horse to move forward. 4. At the sitting trot, sit quietly in a balanced position, not balancing on the reins. 5. In the rising trot, you will rise with the movement of the horse and return to the seat without a loss of balance. 6. Since the horse’s legs move in alternate DIAGONAL pairs, the stride you post
(rise) on is referred to as a DIAGONAL. The rule for a correct DIAGONAL is to post with the outside DIAGONAL pair.
7. For example, when you are riding to the right, rise when the horse lifts its left front leg and right hind leg. Sit when these legs touch the ground.
8. The reason for being on the correct DIAGONAL is that your horse’s inside legs are in the best position to bear the full strain of your weight. When riding in a circle, the horse will find it easier to balance if the rider is out of the saddle when the inside front leg is on the ground.
9. If you are riding in a clockwise direction, you will post on the left DIAGONAL. When you travel counterclockwise, you will post on the right DIAGONAL.
10. When you feel your body being pushed up by the forward movement of the inside hind leg, let your pelvis come forward and up, as if you were being gently pulled by the belt buckle.
11. Keep your upper body slightly inclined forward from the hips. Remember, the stirrups are there to rest on, not push on. They are there to carry the weight of your legs, not the whole body.
12. To change diagonals is very simple. All you do is sit two beats of the trot or stay in the air for two beats. Try to “feel” the motion of your horse and not look down at his forelegs. You may find it helpful to count the strides 1, 2, 1, 2 as you ride.
The Lope or CANTER
1. The lope is a three beat gait. 2. Your horse should be accepting the bit quietly and moving forward in an easy relaxed manner at
the trot before you start asking for the lope. 3. Pick up slightly on the reins, then move your outside leg back behind the CINCH and apply
pressure. At the same time, shift your weight to the outside hind leg. This will shift the horse’s hindquarters to the inside, making it possible for it to “lead” with the inside leg. (From the trot, the leading hind leg will pick up the CANTER first. CUE the horse as the outside front leg moves forward.)
4. It is important that your horse is on the correct “lead.” If you are travelling to the left, your horse should be on the left lead.
5. Do not lean to the inside of the circle when asking your horse to lope. Your weight will cause it to pick up the wrong lead.
6. Do not allow your horse to lope “disunited.” This happens when a horse is on one lead in the front and the opposite lead behind. This is also known as “cross-firing.”
7. Do not look down to check what lead your horse is on. This makes it harder for the horse to work because it puts extra weight on the front quarters, making it harder to stride forward.
Equus says...
Relaxed, quiet hands are important to allow for rhythm with the movement of the horse’s head. The legs are kept in close contact with the saddle and the horse. Your heels should be down.
113
Glossary
-A-
ACTION - How a horse moves its feet and legs at a walk, trot, etc.
ABNORMAL -
ABRASION - A scrape (type of wound).
AIDS - Artificial: spurs, whips, martingales.
AIDS - Natural: the legs, hands, weight, and voice, as used in controlling a horse.
APPOINTMENTS - The tack and clothing a rider uses.
AURICLE- The outer part of the ear.
-B-
BACK - To step a horse backwards.
BALD-FACED - Face marked by wide white stripe from forehead to nose. BALANCE -The ability to change your center of gravity to suit the movement of the horse.
BIGHT OF THE REINS - The part of the reins passing between thumb and fingers and out the top of
the hand.
BELL BOOTS - A circular boot made of rubber or other fabric that fits the horse from the pastern
down over the hoof.
BEET PULP - A dried by-product of processed sugar beets.
BLACK POINTS - Mane, tail, and legs black or darker than rest of horse.
pastern over the hoof.
BRAN - The ground-up hulls (or the covering) of wheat.
-C-
CANNON - The lower leg bone below knee and below hock. CANTER - A three beat pace, slower than a GALLOP.
CANTLE - The back of a saddle.
CAVESSON - A noseband on a bridle. A stiff noseband on a halter used with long strap in training.
CHESTNUTS - The horny growths on inside of a horse’s leg, also called night eyes.
CINCH - A wide cord GIRTH used on western saddles.
COFFIN BONE - A little bone shaped like the hoof found at the front of the foot.
COLD-BLOODED - A horse with ancestry from the draft breeds.
COLD-HOSING - Running a cool stream of water over a wound or swelling.
CONDITION - How healthy or unhealthy a horse looks.
CONFORMATION - Refers to the structure and form of a horse.
CONTRACTED HEELS - Close at the heels.
CRACKED HEELS - a painful scabby skin condition found at the back of the pastern. CROP - A riding whip with a short straight stock and a loop.
CROUP - Part of the back just in front of base of tail.
CUE - A signal given by the rider to the horse.
114
-D-
DAM - The female parent of a horse.
DIAGONAL - The pair of legs that move forward at one time at a trot. Movement of a
front leg and opposite hind leg. Important when POSTING at a trot.
DISMOUNT - To move from a saddled horse to the ground, or from the horse’s back to
the ground.
DORSAL STRIPE - A dark line along the spine.
-E-
ENCEPHALOMYELITIS - A serious disease, spread by mosquitoes, causing fever and death, also
known as “sleeping sickness”.
EQUINE - of or pertaining to the horse.
EXHIBITOR – Name for person showing a horse.
-F-
FARRIER - A person trained to shoes horses, and trim hooves.
FAR-SIDE - The right side of a horse (also known as the off-side).
FILLY - Female horse less than four years of age.
FIRST AID - The first help given to an injured animal.
FIVE-GAITED - A saddle horse trained to perform in five GAITS: the walk, trot, CANTER, slow gait
and rack.
FOAL - A young horse of either sex up to one year of age.
FOREHAND - The front quarters of a horse: the head, forelegs, shoulder, and chest.
-G-
GAITS - The manner of going. The straight GAITS are walk, trot, CANTER and GALLOP. FIVE-
GAITED horses walk, trot, CANTER, rack and do one of the slow GAITS, running walk,
fox trot, or stepping pace.
GALLOP - A three-beat gait resembling the CANTER but faster, 12 mi/hr (19 km/hr). The
extended gallop may be a four-beat and is about 16 mi/hr (25 km/hr).
GASKIN - The muscular part of the hind leg above the hock.
GIRTH - The measure of the circumference of a horse’s body back of the withers. A leather,
canvas, or corded piece around body of horse to hold saddle on. GRAIN - Seeds from crops (such as oats, corn & barley) that are used as energy sources in
concentrate feeds.
GREGARIOUS - A word used to describe animals that like to be in a group, ie. horses.
GREEN HORSE - One with little training.
GELDING - A male horse of any age that has been castrated.
GROOM - To remove dust and dirt from the horse using brushes and a cloth. Groom also
refers to person who does this.
GOOD HANDS - The rider’s hands are in contact with the bit, but will still have some yield.
115
-H-
HANDS - A measurement of the height of a horse. One hand equals 4 inches. For
any measurements less than a hand use a decimal, then the number of inches (1 to
3) and any fraction of an inch written as a action
HEAD SHY - Applied to a horse that is sensitive about the head, jerks away when
touched.
HEAD STALL - The leather bridle straps exclusive of bit and reins. HERD BOUND - A horse who refuses to leave the group of horses.
HOOF - The foot as a whole in horses. The curved covering of horn over the foot.
HORSE LENGTH - Eight feet, distance between horses in a column.
HORSEMANSHIP - Art of riding the horse and understanding his needs.
-I-
INSTINCT - A natural reaction to any situation.
INCISED WOUND - A clean cut wound caused by a sharp object.
-J-
JOCKEY - The leather flaps on the side of a saddle.
JOG - Slow collected trot required for Western classes.
-L-
LAMENESS - A defect detected when the animal favors the affected foot when standing. The
load on the ailing foot in ACTION is eased and a characteristic bobbing of the head occurs as the
affected foot strikes the ground.
LACERATION - A wound caused by tearing of the skin.
LEGUMES - A type of forage in pasture or hay that has stems, oblong leaves and flowers, ie. alfalfa,
clover.
LOCKJAW - A common name for TETANUS.
LOPE - A three-beat gait.
-M- MARE - A mature female horse, over four years of age.
MOUNTING - To get on the back of the horse with or without a saddle.
-N-
NAVICULAR BONE - A small bone inside the foot.
NEAR SIDE - The left side of a horse.
NUTRITION - Proper feeding program for a horse. Food, nourishment.
116
-O-
OFF-SIDE - The right side of a horse.
“OUT OF” - Means the same as “the DAM of”. Female parent of a FOAL.
OVER-REACH - A painful wound on the heel or back of the fetlock on the front leg
caused by the toe of the hind foot striking the front leg.
-P- PARE - A two-beat gait in which the legs on the same side move at the same time, ie.
left front and left hind; a natural gait of the Standardbred.
PERIOPLE - The shiny outer covering of the hoof wall.
PIGEON-TOED - Front toes are turned inwards while the heels are turned out.
PLANTAR CUSHION - Fatty cushion at the back of the foot.
PONY - Generally 14.2 hands or less in height.
POSTING - At a trot the rider moves forward and up in time to the outside front leg of the
horse.
PUNCTURE - A deep narrow type of wound.
PUREBRED - A horse with known ancestry from a definite breed and having no mixed heritage
from other breeds.
- Q -
QUARTER CRACK - A vertical crack on the side of the hoof.
QUILTS - Large quilted cotton sheets wrapped around the horses leg and held in place by leg wraps;
used as protection when traveling or for injury.
-R-
RABIES - An infectious disease that destroys parts of the brain’s nerve cells.
ROMAL - A long flexible quirt or whip attached to closed reins.
ROMAL REINS - A “Y” shaped set of reins with a single strap held by the rider.
-S-
SIRE - The male parent of a horse. SNAFFLE - A bit with a ring type of cheek piece and solid or jointed mouthpiece.
SKID BOOTS - Boots worn to protect the fetlocks of the rear legs.
SPLINT BOOTS - A flat boot worn on the front legs to protect the CANNON bone.
SPLAY FOOT - Front toes turned out; heels turned in.
SOLE -Hard protective covering on the bottom of the hoof.
SNIP - A white streak on the nose between the nostrils.
SOUND - The horse has no defects, illnesses or blemishes that will reduce their usefulness.
STALLION - A male horse that has not been castrated (gelded).
117
-T-
TACK - Riding equipment or gear for the horse, such as saddles, bridles, etc.
TETANUS - A serious disease caused by toxin-producing bacteria that invade an open
wound; also known as LOCKJAW.
THREE-GAITED - A saddle horse trained to perform at the walk, trot and CANTER.
THRUSH - A fungus infection in the frog of the foot. Causes a strong smelling dis-
charge. TREE - The wooden or metal frame of a saddle
TROT - A two-beat diagonal gait.
-W-
WALK - A slow, natural four-beat gait.
WINDPUFF - A puffy enlargement in the fetlock.
118
MANITOBA 4-H DISMOUNTED SKILLS LEVELS 1-3 Skill Required Skill Description Initial
Safety & Stable Management
L1 Give 3 safety rules to remember while riding your horse. L1 Give 3 safety rules to remember when working with your horse on the ground. All Describe 2 dress rules to follow for safe riding. L1 Explain where a horse’s blind spots are and why it is important to know this. L2 List three ways to keep your bran or pasture safe. L3 Name five things that would make your barn or pasture unsafe. L3 Name five things that would make your barn or pasture unsafe. All Identify 3 loading/hauling safety rules
Groundwork L1 Catch and halter your horse safely. L1 Explain how a halter should fit and why. L1 Lead your horse safely at a walk, turn right, stop and back up. L1 Lead around in a large circle (20 m) using at least 4 markers. L1 Lead your horse across 2 diagonal lines of the riding area. L1 Demonstrate and explain how and where to tie your horse using a quick release
knot.
L1 Demonstrate how your horse moves sideways away from pressure by cueing with your hand while the horse is tied.
L2 Demonstrate leading at the walk, trot, right turn, emergency left turn, halt, and fluid backup.
L2 Demonstrate and explain how to properly cross tie your horse. L2 Demonstrate how your horse moves sideways away from pressure by cueing him
with your hand while you are holding him.
L3 Demonstrate where to stand when holding your horse when someone else is work-ing with it (de worming, hoof trim etc) Explain why this is important for the safety of yourself as well as the other person.
L3 Demonstrate how to trot out, square and pose for CONFORMATION analysis or vet inspection.
Grooming L1 Identify 5 grooming tools and explain their use. L1 Demonstrate how to use a hoof pick correctly by cleaning one of your horse’s feet
(someone else may hold the foot).
L1 Name the parts of the hoof L2 Demonstrate how to thoroughly groom your horse including cleaning at least two
feet (Someone else may hold the feet).
L3 Demonstrate how to pick up and clean all four feet of your horse (smaller members may have some assistance).
L3 Explain and demonstrate extra safety precautions you take while cleaning your horse’s hind feet.
L3 Describe three signs that your horse needs his hooves trimmed. L3 Explain how to clip a bridle path on a quiet horse.
119
Psychology
L1 Describe your horse’s first reaction when he is frightened. Describe what might hap-pen if it is tied and what should you do.
L1 Describe 4 signs that your horse might misbehave.
L1 Explain what you would do if your horse ran away while you were riding.
L1 Explain what you would do if someone else’s horse ran away while you were riding.
L2 Explain how a horse would use his body language to show that he is happy, angry, nervous and curious. Give two clues for each emotion.
L2 Explain why your horse wants to return to the group.
L3 Explain how horses work out the pecking order and how you can tell which one is the boss in the group.
Health
L1 Describe where you keep your horse.
L1 Describe what your horse regularly eats.
L1 Describe 3 signs that show a horse is healthy.
L2 Demonstrate how to measure the height and weight of your horse.
L2 Describe three signs that indicate a horse is unhealthy.
L2 Explain how much and how often you feed your horse each day.
L2 Explain four feeding rules
L3 Explain what you do to prevent and control parasites in your horse.
L3 Describe three signs of a wormy horse.
L3 Name three things that determine what your horse needs to eat (feed by need).
L3 Describe three feeding problems that could make your horse sick.
L3 If a pasture-kept horse must be stalled, name three things you could do to make it comfortable and safe.
L3 Describe and demonstrate how to clean (muck) a stall.
Identification
L1 Describe your horse’s breed, colour and markings.
L2 Identify at least six external parts of the horse.
L2 Identify any 5 colours and 5 markings that a horse may have.
L3 Name 5 breeds of horses.
L3 List 3 things your horse’s pen or pasture should have in it.
L3 Identify all the parts of the horse’s body and feet.
120
Riding
L1 Demonstrate with your own hands and feet the footfall sequence of a horse at the walk and jog/trot.
L1 Unsaddle and unbridle your horse. (Smaller members should be able to explain correct methods even if they are not able to do it entirely.)
L1 Demonstrate how to correctly put your tack away after riding.
L2 Demonstrate with your own hands and feet the footfall sequence of the walk, jog/trot, lope/CANTER and back.
L2 Saddle and Bridle your horse. (Smaller members should be able to explain correct methods even if they are not able to do it entirely and may need some help).
L2 Identify five parts of the saddle and three parts of the bridle.
L2 Identify five parts of the saddle and three parts of the bridle.
L2 While watching a horse being trotted, identify which diagonal the rider is on.
L2 While watching a horse being ridden at a lope/CANTER, recognize which lead the horse is on.
L3 Describe the cues you would give your horse to ask him to lope. Also describe the cues you would give to ask for the correct lead.
L3 Demonstrate with your own hands and feet the footfall sequence of the walk, jog/trot, lope/CANTER, gallop and back.
L3 Identify all the parts of a saddle and bridle.
L3 Explain and demonstrate the proper cleaning and care of tack.
L3 Describe a SNAFFLE bit and how it works and when to use it. Describe a leverage bit, how it works and when to use it.
121
LEVEL 1 MANITOBA 4-H MOUNTED SKILLS Skill Required Skill Description Initial 1 Warm-up:
-Before mounting, with your hand either on the cheek piece of the bridle, or using the rein, quietly flex your horse’s neck by bringing his nose to 3 o’clock and then 9 o’clock. -Demonstrate a tack check. -Mount correctly while explaining what each hand must do (the horse may be held and a mounting block may be used).
2 While sitting in the saddle, demonstrate how and where to hold the reins with 2 hands.
3 Explain and demonstrate correct basic position, correct balance and focus.
4 Do 3 arm and 3 leg exercises while your horse is standing still and then while moving.
5 At a halt, demonstrate: -How to establish correct contact on horse’s mouth. -Hand and leg AIDS used to turn your horse with an open rein. -Use that open rein to flex his neck and turn his head to 3 and 9 o’clock.
6 At a walk, ride to at least 4 markers zig-zagging back and forth across the arena turning first one way and then the other. An open rein must be used at each turn and both of the rider’s legs will be doing their job.
7 Demonstrate how to do an emergency stop using an open rein to pull the horse’s nose towards his ribs and circling until the horse stops.
8 Ride a circle around at least 4 markers, demonstrating basic position, balance, correct focus and that you are not over-gripping with your hands or legs.
9 Demonstrate at least 10 steps of jog/trot without breaking stride, bolting or over-gripping with your hands and legs. Western riders may jog sitting or do a rising trot - English riders should post trot. Explain how many beats there are in this gait and what you can do to keep from bouncing.
10 Ride all the way around the arena at a walk in both directions.
11 Explain the 3 AIDS (weight, voice and hands – 2 direct reins) that are used to stop your horse. Demonstrate a stop using all 3 AIDS. Explain and demonstrate what you would do if your horse did not stop.
12 Explain and demonstrate how to use the correct AIDS (position, hands and legs) to back your horse 2 steps.
13 While riding in a small group (4 or less) demonstrate and explain how to keep a safe distance from other horses and how to pass safely.
14 Ride the pattern. Start the pattern with a tack check and correct mount. You may use a mounting block and a helper to hold your horse.
15 Safely DISMOUNT your horse. You must not use a mounting block but a helper may hold your horse. Explain what your hands and feet are doing, and where the horse’s head should be.
16 Demonstrate the attached riding patterns
122
LEVEL 2 MANITOBA 4-H MOUNTED SKILLS
Skill Required Skill Description Initial
1 Warm-up: While standing still, flex your horse’s neck to turn his nose to 11, 10 and 9 o’clock and then 1, 2, and 3 o’clock. Do dismounted, then mount correctly and repeat the exercise.
2 Do 3 arm and 3 leg exercises at a walk. Explain what the 2 point position is. Demonstrate at least 6 steps of walking in a 2 point position (basic position with your seat raised off the saddle and your heels down).
3 Show how you would use an open rein to circle down to an emergency stop. Show how you can use the same exercise without stopping to get your horse to follow his nose and give to the bit.
4 Explain what a direct rein is. Use it to demonstrate 3 turns in each direction at arena markers at a walk and jog/trot. Explain what each of your hands and legs are doing.
5 Explain what your horse should do if you apply 2 direct reins. What are the 3 AIDS to produce the stop. Demonstrate the AIDS in the correct order 3 times.
6 Walk your horse forward 4 steps, stop using the correct AIDS, hesitate and back up 4 steps.
7 Ride the center line (A-C) and both diagonal lines of the arena at the walk and jog/trot. Try not to let you or your horse lean at either end of the diagonal lines.
8 Ride a small (10 m) circle marked with cones at a walk, then a larger (20 m) circle marked with cones at a jog/trot. In both circles the horse’s nose should be tipped slightly to the inside (11 and 1 o’clock). Go both directions. You can use an open or direct rein aid or both.
9 Demonstrate a jog/trot all the way around the arena without clinging to your horse, breaking gait or bolting. Riders choosing to post should be rising on the correct diagonal and riders choosing to sit should demonstrate the 2 beat rhythm by exaggerating the motion of their hips for at least ¼ of the ring.
10 Explain what body parts are used to post. Explain why we post. Sit trot from marker 1 to marker 2 or 3 in a circle, then start to rise trot. Rise trot all the way around the circle. Do this 3 times in each direction. English riders should be on the correct diagonal. Western riders are encouraged to be.
11 What is the rhythm of the lope/CANTER? What are the AIDS to lope/CANTER? Demonstrate a lope/CANTER for at least ten strides in each direction. Correct leads are encouraged but not required.
12 Move from a walk to a jog/trot to a lope/CANTER, back to a jog/trot and then a walk in both directions of the arena. The rider should appear relaxed and comfortable. Do this as an individual and in a group.
13 Demonstrate how to safely move to another area of the arena to avoid crowding.
14 Show that you can control your horse by halting as the rest of the group rides on and then ride on while the rest of the group stops. Be prepared to do an emergency stop if your horse will not stand still.
15 Ride the attached pattern. Include a tack check, correct mount and correct DISMOUNT. A mounting block (when mounting) or helper to hold your horse (when mounting or dismounting) may be used.
123
LEVEL 3 MANITOBA 4-H MOUNTED SKILLS Skill Required Skill Description Initial
1 Warm-up: Explain how you know that your stirrups are correctly adjusted. At the walk or jog/trot demonstrate how you could regain your horse’s attention by riding at least 3 tiny circles with an open rein and stopping your horse with his head at both 3 and 9 o’clock. Explain how you know when you’ve got his attention back. Remember to use correct body position, balance, suppleness, focus and quiet hands.
2 Demonstrate your ability to follow markers and ride a circle and a straight line without stirrups at a walk and at a jog/trot. Demonstrate the two beat rhythm of the jog/trot with your hand or hips.
3 Using one end of the arena, jog/sit trot a slower smaller circle, then rise trot a larger longer strided circle. Both circles start and end at the same spot (A or C). The rider should be on the correct diagonal. Go both ways.
4 Explain the AIDS for upward and downward transitions. By using specific markers on the rail, move from a walk to a jog/trot, then to a lope/CANTER, back to a trot/jog, and then a walk. Go both ways.
5 Review the lope/CANTER AIDS. At a specific marker on the rail or on the circle, pick up a lope/CANTER from the jog/sit trot. As soon as possible, tell the evaluator whether you are on the correct lead. Do 3 times in each direction.
6 Explain and demonstrate: A rising trot showing correct diagonals in each direction. Jog/sit trot to a specific marker on the rail or circle and pick up and hold the diagonal for at least 3 strides. If incorrect, sit for at least 10 strides before trying again. Do 3 times in each direction. How to change diagonals 3 times to the left and 3 times to the right. Emphasis should be on feeling the diagonal (accuracy), not speed in changing.
7 Rein effects: Explain and demonstrate one instance in which the direct rein cannot be effective unless we use a support rein. Explain and demonstrate how we can move or block our horse’s shoulders by using a rein of opposition. Include what both hands and both legs are doing in your explanation.
8 Explain and demonstrate how to bend your horse at a walk and jog/trot on a circle. The evaluator will watch to see you use a direct rein and support rein, and correct leg AIDS. If you are having trouble, show how a rein of opposition will help.
9 Define a leg yield. Explain the AIDS and demonstrate how to do a leg yield of at least 3 strides in each direction. The wall may be used as an aid. Include what both hands and both legs are doing in your explanation.
10 Explain what a figure 8 looks like. Explain and demonstrate what AIDS you will use to ride a figure 8 at a walk and a jog/trot. You may use at least 8 markers to help you ride the correct shape.
12 Lope/CANTER all the way around the arena in both directions. Basic position, balance, suppleness, quiet hands, focus and rhythm are necessary. If you are on the wrong lead, show the evaluator that you know by breaking back to a jog/trot and trying again.
14 Ride at least 2 large circles demonstrating control and accuracy in keeping the circle round. Include all 3 gaits using only 2 markers (12 and 6 o’clock). Go both ways.
15 Zigzag back and forth across the arena making at least 6 turns with an indirect rein (reins in 2 hands). What is the job of the hand not holding the indirect rein? Tell the evaluator if your horse’s nose is correctly tipped toward each turn. Western riders will repeat using correct neck reining techniques (1 hand).
16 Walk your horse forward 6 steps, stop using the 3 AIDS in the correct order, hesitate, try to flex your horse at the poll and jaw, then back your horse at least 6 steps in a straight line.
17 Define a turn on the FOREHAND. Explain the AIDS and demonstrate at least 2 hind crossovers in each direction. The wall may be used as an aid.
18 Demonstrate how to pass another horse that you meet head on. 19 Ride in a group at all three gaits showing control and safe spacing. 20 Ride the pattern including a tack check, and a proper mount and DISMOUNT.
124
125
126
127
128
.
Exploring Horse Level3 Pattern #1
The pattern is to be worked as stated not as drawn. The drawn pattern is just to give the general idea of what the pattern will look like in the arena.
129
130
Now that you have finished this project, it is time to think about how you will share your experiences and knowledge with others. You may put your new skills to work by helping at a community event or at your club Achievement or teaching others about your topic. The goal of the Showcase Challenge is to help highlight your new skills and help you understand how you can use them. It can be an op-portunity to receive feedback from others on your project. So go back through your manual and find some highlights of your learning (what you are proud of) and think about how you will “showcase” it.
Showcase Challenge Bringing it all together!
Demonstrate something you may have or learned about
Make a poster or display
Make a pattern of your own Make a computer presentation (e.g. PowerPoint)
Give a speech Create a picture book
Use your new skills to help with the Club Achievement plans
Or come up with your own idea. It is up to you and your leader!
Dream it! Here are some Showcase Challenge Suggestions:
My Showcase Challenge Plan My showcase idea: __________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
What materials and resources do I need? _________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Who do I need to help me? ___________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
When do I need to have things done by? _________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
131
Do it! Insert or attach your finished product or a photo of you sharing your skills in your Showcase Challenge.
Dig it!
Now that you have showcased your project skills; How did your Showcase Challenge go?
What would you do differently next time?
How will you use your new skills in the future? (in different situations?)
132
Showcase Challenge Bringing it all together!
Now that you have finished this project, it is time to think about how you will share your experiences and knowledge with others. You may put your new skills to work by helping at a community event or at your club Achievement or teaching others about your topic. The goal of the Showcase Challenge is to help highlight your new skills and help you understand how you can use them. It can be an op-portunity to receive feedback from others on your project. So go back through your manual and find some highlights of your learning (what you are proud of) and think about how you will “showcase” it.
Demonstrate something you may have or learned about
Make a poster or display
Make a pattern of your own Make a computer presentation (e.g. PowerPoint)
Give a speech Create a picture book
Use your new skills to help with the Club Achievement plans
Or come up with your own idea. It is up to you and your leader!
Dream it! Here are some Showcase Challenge Suggestions:
My Showcase Challenge Plan My showcase idea: __________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
What materials and resources do I need? _________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Who do I need to help me? ___________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
When do I need to have things done by? _________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
133
Do it! Insert or attach your finished product or a photo of you sharing your skills in your Showcase Challenge.
Dig it!
Now that you have showcased your project skills; How did your Showcase Challenge go?
What would you do differently next time?
How will you use your new skills in the future? (in different situations?)
134
Showcase Challenge Bringing it all together!
Now that you have finished this project, it is time to think about how you will share your experiences and knowledge with others. You may put your new skills to work by helping at a community event or at your club Achievement or teaching others about your topic. The goal of the Showcase Challenge is to help highlight your new skills and help you understand how you can use them. It can be an op-portunity to receive feedback from others on your project. So go back through your manual and find some highlights of your learning (what you are proud of) and think about how you will “showcase” it.
Dream it! Here are some Showcase Challenge Suggestions:
Demonstrate something you may have or learned about
Make a poster or display
Make a pattern of your own Make a computer presentation (e.g. PowerPoint)
Give a speech Create a picture book
Use your new skills to help with the Club Achievement plans
Or come up with your own idea. It is up to you and your leader!
My Showcase Challenge Plan My showcase idea: __________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
What materials and resources do I need? _________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Who do I need to help me? ___________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
When do I need to have things done by? _________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
135
Do it! Insert or attach your finished product or a photo of you sharing your skills in your Showcase Challenge.
Dig it!
Now that you have showcased your project skills; How did your Showcase Challenge go?
What would you do differently next time?
How will you use your new skills in the future? (in different situations?)
136
Name: __________________ Date: _____________ Year in 4-H: ____ Club: ______________ Hours Spent on 4-H: ____ Project and Other 4-H Activities)
My 4-H Portfolio Pages
Exploring Horses Project Overview Chart - Dismounted Skills
Skill Builder
Observations (Record observations, thoughts and information learned while completing your
activities. What did you like? What would you do different?)
Safety
Groundwork
Grooming
Psychology
Health
Identification
Riding
137
Member Level
Skill Observations (Record observations, thoughts and information obtained while completing your activities. What did you like? What would you
do different?)
Example: 2
3) Do 3 arm and 3 leg exercises while your horse is standing still and then while moving.
This skill helps me to warm up before riding, as well as helps me to gain balance.
Exploring Horses Project Overview Chart - Mounted Skills
Leader Point of Praise! I am most impressed by…
I acknowledge that the member has completed the 4-H project requirements. Leader’s Signature: _______________________________
138
Member Point of Pride!
What I learned… What I need to improve on… What I want others to notice… Member’s Signature: _______________________________
Above and Beyond! In addition to project skills, 4-H also increases skills in meeting management, communications,
leadership, community involvement through participation in club, area, or provincial 4-H events or activities. List below any activities you participated in this year in 4-H.
(Some examples include Executive Positions Held, Workshops, Communication, Community Service, Rally, Bonspiels, Conferences, Judging, Camps, Trips, Awards, Representation to Area or Provincial Councils, etc)
_________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ ___________________________________
________________________________ __________________________________
________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ __________________________________
**Feel Free to add additional pages that include awards, certificates, new clippings, photos or other items that describe your 4-H involvement.
Point of Praise! Another’s perspective on your achievements in 4-H. (community professionals, MAFRI staff, 4-H club head leaders, 4-H Ambassadors, friends of 4-H)
I am most impressed by… I believe that you have learned… In the future I encourage you to… Signature: _______________________________
139
Name: __________________ Date: _____________ Year in 4-H: ____ Club: ______________ Hours Spent on 4-H: ____ Project and Other 4-H Activities)
My 4-H Portfolio Pages
Exploring Horses Project Overview Chart - Dismounted Skills
Skill Builder
Observations (Record observations, thoughts and information learned while completing your
activities. What did you like? What would you do different?)
Safety
Groundwork
Grooming
Psychology
Health
Identification
Riding
140
Member Level Skill Observations (Record observations, thoughts and information obtained while completing your activities. What did you like? What
would you do different?)
Example: 2
3) Do 3 arm and 3 leg exercises while your horse is standing still and then while moving.
This skill helps me to warm up before riding, as well as helps me to gain balance.
Exploring Horses Project Overview Chart - Mounted Skills
Leader Point of Praise! I am most impressed by…
I acknowledge that the member has completed the 4-H project requirements. Leader’s Signature: _______________________________
141
Member Point of Pride!
What I learned… What I need to improve on… What I want others to notice… Member’s Signature: _______________________________
Above and Beyond! In addition to project skills, 4-H also increases skills in meeting management, communications,
leadership, community involvement through participation in club, area, or provincial 4-H events or activities. List below any activities you participated in this year in 4-H.
(Some examples include Executive Positions Held, Workshops, Communication, Community Service, Rally, Bonspiels, Conferences, Judging, Camps, Trips, Awards, Representation to Area or Provincial Councils, etc)
_________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ ___________________________________
________________________________ __________________________________
________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ __________________________________
**Feel Free to add additional pages that include awards, certificates, new clippings, photos or other items that describe your 4-H involvement.
Point of Praise! Another’s perspective on your achievements in 4-H. (community professionals, MAFRI staff, 4-H club head leaders, 4-H Ambassadors, friends of 4-H)
I am most impressed by… I believe that you have learned… In the future I encourage you to… Signature: _______________________________
142
Name: __________________ Date: _____________ Year in 4-H: ____ Club: ______________ Hours Spent on 4-H: ____ Project and Other 4-H Activities)
My 4-H Portfolio Pages
Exploring Horses Project Overview Chart - Dismounted Skills
Skill Builder
Observations (Record observations, thoughts and information learned while completing your
activities. What did you like? What would you do different?)
Safety
Groundwork
Grooming
Psychology
Health
Identification
Riding
143
Member Level
Skill Observations (Record observations, thoughts and information obtained while completing your activities. What did you like? What
would you do different?)
Example: 2
3) Do 3 arm and 3 leg exercises while your horse is standing still and then while moving.
This skill helps me to warm up before riding, as well as helps me to gain balance.
Exploring Horses Project Overview Chart - Mounted Skills
Leader Point of Praise! I am most impressed by…
I acknowledge that the member has completed the 4-H project requirements. Leader’s Signature: _______________________________
144
Member Point of Pride!
What I learned… What I need to improve on… What I want others to notice… Member’s Signature: _______________________________
Above and Beyond! In addition to project skills, 4-H also increases skills in meeting management, communications,
leadership, community involvement through participation in club, area, or provincial 4-H events or activities. List below any activities you participated in this year in 4-H.
(Some examples include Executive Positions Held, Workshops, Communication, Community Service, Rally, Bonspiels, Conferences, Judging, Camps, Trips, Awards, Representation to Area or Provincial Councils, etc)
_________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ ___________________________________
________________________________ __________________________________
________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ __________________________________
_________________________________ __________________________________
**Feel Free to add additional pages that include awards, certificates, new clippings, photos or other items that describe your 4-H involvement.
Point of Praise! Another’s perspective on your achievements in 4-H. (community professionals, MAFRI staff, 4-H club head leaders, 4-H Ambassadors, friends of 4-H)
I am most impressed by… I believe that you have learned… In the future I encourage you to… Signature: _______________________________
145
4-H Achievement
4-H Achievement is… a 4-H club celebration when members have completed their projects. Achievements are planned by the club to give recognition to members and leaders for their accomplishments in their 4-H projects and club activities.
A 4-H Achievement can take many different formats: from choosing a theme, to member project displays, to members using their new skills for the event (entertainment, food, decorating, photographer, etc.), to members presenting their project to the whole group, the options are endless and open to the creativity of the members and leaders in each club! Clubs may also plan their Achievement to promote 4-H to the community or to recognize sponsors and others who have helped the club. Members and leaders - be sure to check your project books for the project completion
For more information about 4-H and the many
4-H opportunities available please visit
If you have any questions, comments or suggestions for this or other 4-H projects contact:
Manitoba 4-H Projects
Manitoba Agriculture Food and Rural Initiatives 1129 Queens Avenue
Brandon, MB R7A 1L9
Email: [email protected]
Phone: 204-726-6613 Fax: 204-726-6260
This manual is for educational use only and is not intended as professional advice.
146
4-H Motto
“Learn To Do by Doing” 4-H Pledge
I pledge, My HEAD to clearer thinking, My HEART to greater loyalty, My HANDS to larger service, My HEALTH to better living, For my club, my community, and my country.
What is 4-H?
4-H is an international youth organization involving more than 7 million members in 80 countries around the world. In Canada, 4-H began in 1913 in Roland, Manitoba as a community-based organization dedicated to growth and development of rural youth. Today’s 4-H program reaches both farm and non-farm youth across Canada. The motto of “Learn to Do by Doing” is embodied in the program, as 4-H focuses on skill development as well as personal development of life skills such as communications, leadership and citizenship.
Manitoba 4-H project material is developed by
Manitoba Agriculture, Food and Rural Initiatives (MAFRI)
4-H Quality Equation Principles
Quality People Promote responsibility, respect, trust, honesty, fairness,
sportsmanship, citizenship, teamwork and caring. Quality Experiences
Provide members with personal development and skill development experiences.
Quality Projects Promote and value quality effort. Promote high quality, safe food production within industry standards.