48 hours in: bologna - al cappello rosso · 3/2/2014 48 hours in: bologna - europe - travel ......
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3/2/2014 48 Hours In: Bologna - Europe - Travel - The Independent
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Travel essentials
Why go now?
The capital of EmiliaRomagna is always a good winter bet thanks to the
30 miles of arcades and colonnades that cover most of the city centre,
buffering the pavements from the elements. A muchanticipated
exhibition, "The Myth of the Golden Age: From Vermeer to Rembrandt",
will run at Palazzo Fava (1) from 8 February to 25 May, showcasing 50
masterpieces from the currently closed Dutch Mauritshuis gallery,
including Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring.
Touch down
Bologna's airport (00 39 051 6479615;
bolognaairport.it) is four miles northwest of
the city centre. Ryanair (0871 246 0000;
ryanair.com) flies from Stansted and
Travel > Europe
48 Hours In: Bologna
The medieval arcades of this northern Italian city make it a good bet in winter – anda blockbuster exhibition bolsters the appeal, says Julia Buckley
JULIA BUCKLEY
Saturday 01 February 2014
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3/2/2014 48 Hours In: Bologna - Europe - Travel - The Independent
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Edinburgh; British Airways (0844 493 0787;
ba.com) flies from Heathrow; and easyJet
(0843 104 5000; easyjet.com) flies from
Gatwick.
From the airport, the AerobusBLQ shuttle
runs to the train station via the city centre
every 15 minutes from 5.30am to 12.15am,
taking 20 minutes and costing €6. On
weekdays, it stops at Via Ugo Bassi (2) and Via
dell'Indipendenza (3).
Via dell'Indipendenza, which leads north to the train station, and the
conjoined Via Rizzoli and Via Ugo Bassi, are Bologna's high streets. Known
as "the T", they're pedestrianised from 8am on Saturday to 10pm on
Sunday. As a result, at weekends, the closest airport bus stop to the city
centre is Via Marconi (4), a sevenminute walk to Piazza Maggiore (5).
Taxis take around 15 minutes to the centre and cost about €20.
Get your bearings
Bologna is a compact city, and the vast majority of its landmarks are easily
walkable in the tangled medieval centre. Sweeping Piazza Maggiore (5),
with its crenellated palazzi and enormous basilica, is the heart of the city;
but the Due Torri (6) – twin medieval towers east of the piazza that lean,
tipsily, towards each other – are its hub. Five of the main streets spin out
from here towards the ancient city gates.
The tourist office (7) is at Piazza Maggiore 1/E (00 39 051 239 660;
bologna welcome.com). It opens 9am7pm daily (10am5pm on Sundays).
Check in
Bologna's only fivestar hotel is the opulent Grand Hotel Majestic (8) at
Via Indipendenza 8 (00 39 051 225 445;
grandhotelmajestic.duetorrihotels.com). It was formerly the Baglioni.
Rather outré doubles start at €261, including breakfast. Al Cappello Rosso
(9) at Via de' Fusari 9 (00 39 051 261891; alcappellorosso.it) is equally
comfortable – and it's been going since 1375. Skip the dull classic rooms –
most of the superior ones have fun themes. Superior doubles cost from
€140, room only.
Located in an 18thcentury palazzo, the lowbudget Palace Hotel (10) at Via
Montegrappa 9/2 (00 39 051 237 442; hotelpalacebologna.it) may not be
the grande dame she once was, but the simple rooms are still comfortable,
with high ceilings and an original fresco in the lobby. Doubles cost from
€72, including breakfast.
Day One
Take a view
Brave the 498 steps of
the Asinelli tower (6) –
the taller of the Due
Torri, on Piazza di
Porta Ravegnana. From
the top, among the
terracotta roofs you'll
notice Bologna's 20odd
remaining medieval
towers, which are often
hidden at ground level.
Entry costs €3 (9am
5pm).
Take a hike
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3/2/2014 48 Hours In: Bologna - Europe - Travel - The Independent
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Twin set: the Asinelli Tower Head east from the
Asinelli along Strada
Maggiore, turning right at number 19 to cut through the Corte Isolani (11),
a Medieval shopping mall. You'll emerge at Santo Stefano (12) – a
rambling complex of seven churches from the 10th13th centuries.
From here, take Via Santo Stefano to Via Clavature, whose tiny church,
Santa Maria della Vita (13), at number 10, houses a harrowing terracotta
Deposition tableau.
The street opens on to Piazza Maggiore (5). To your left, at Piazza Galvani
1, is the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio (14), the original seat of Bologna's
university (00 39 051 276 811; www.archiginnasio.it; 9am6.45pm Monday
to Friday, 9am1.45pm Saturday, shut Sunday). Here, wooden "skinned
torso" figures prop up the lecturer's platform in the 17thcentury Teatro
Anatomico, or dissection room (€3 entry to Teatro Anatomico; the rest of
the building is free).
To the right, Piazza Maggiore (5), whose castlelike buildings formed the
seat of Medieval power, spills into Piazza del Nettuno (15), where there's a
huge statue of Neptune and a moving photo memorial to the 5,238
partisans killed in the Second World War.
Lunch on the run
Tucked away behind Piazza Maggiore (5) is the Quadrilatero: an ancient
grid of food shops. The most famous, Tamburini (16) at Via Caprarie 1 (00
39 051 232226; tamburini.com) has a cafeteriastyle outfit, where main
meals cost around €7.50. La Baita (17) at Via Pescherie Vecchie 3A (00 39
051 223940), is more refined, with mezzanine seating where you can
sample hams and cheeses. Downtoearth bar Osteria del Sole (18) at
Vicolo Ranocchi 1D (00 39 348 225 6887; osteriadelsole.it, closed Sunday)
has operated a bringyourown food policy since 1465. Buy lunch at any of
the nearby delis – Salumeria Simoni (19) at Via Drapperie 5/2A (00 39 051
231880; salumeriasimoni.it) is a popular choice – and they'll set you up at
a communal table with a glass of wine.
Window shopping
Bologna's 16thcentury Ghetto Ebraico (Jewish Ghetto) was run down until
recently, but is enjoying a cultural renaissance. Tiny Via dell'Inferno (20) is
now crammed with artisan workshops such as the upmarket cobblers La
Calzoleria di Max e Gio at 22A (00 39 051 263856;
lacalzoleriadimaxegio.com) and Cosetta Corticelli (00 39 051 228661;
corticellicosetta.it) on the corner at Via Canonica 3. Casagrande Tigrino at
Via dell'Inferno 24A/B (00 39 051 234948; casagrandetigrino.it)
produces delicate jewellery, while Arteggiando (21) at Via del Carro 11 (00
39 051 7176556; arteggiando.com) sells locally made textiles and objets
d'art.
An aperitif
Nearby, the hipstervintage surroundings make Camera a Sud (22) at Via
Valdonica 5 (00 39 051 095 1448; cameraasud.net) a popular place to
enjoy an Aperol spritz for €4. Book ahead to ensure a seat.
Dining with the locals
Via Cartoleria has two unique restaurants. Sette Tavoli (23) at number
15/2 (00 39 051 272900; settetavoli.it; shut Sunday) is a tiny gem of seven
tables, whose inventive menu shifts to a different area of Italy each month.
Drogheria della Rosa (24) at number 10 (00 39 051 222529;
drogheriadellarosa.it) serves EmiliaRomagnan specialities in a
delightfully ramshackle environment.
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The Santuario della Madonna di San Luca
Day Two
Sunday morning: go
to church
Begun in 1221 in honour
of the founder of the
Dominican order, the
Basilica di San
Domenico (25) in
peaceful Piazza San
Domenico (00 39 051
640 0411) contains
Baroque and Renaissance work by Guido Reni, Filippino Lippi and
Ludovico Carracci. But the main draw is the saint's spectacularly florid
marble tomb, sculpted by Pisano, Niccolo dell'Arca and Michelangelo.
Walk in the park
Just beyond the southern city walls, Giardini di Margherita (26) at Piazza
di Porta Santo Stefano, is Bologna's only proper park.It is surrounded by
grand palazzi and modelled on London's St James's Park. A central lake
divides formal lawns – lined by cedar and chestnut trees – from the
commons, where two Etruscan sarcophagi, found during landscaping, sit
beside the path.
Out to brunch
The glassfronted Chalet dei Giardini Margherita (27) (00 39 051 9913789;
chaletdeigiardini margherita.it) is on the bridge overlooking the park lake.
Warm up with croissants, sandwiches and piadine, a local flatbread (open
8am7pm). The seriously sweettoothed should try Regina di Quadri (28)
at Via Castiglione 73A (00 39 051 6446201; reginadiquadri.eu), a chichi
pasticceria where shelves groan with pastries and there's a hotchocolate
fountain (8am8pm).
Take a ride
Santuario della Madonna di San Luca at Via di San Luca 36;
sanlucabo.org), is on a bluff southwest of the centre. Bus tickets, valid for
75 minutes, cost €1.30. Number 32 runs from Porta Castiglione (29) to
Porta Saragozza (30); change there to the number 20, and get off at stately
home Villa Spada (31), where a minibus leaves for San Luca every half
hour. There's a Baroque church and spectacular views across the city to the
Apennines (open 7am5pm daily).
Cultural afternoon
Back at Villa Spada, take the 20 bus towards the centre. The Museo Civico
Medievale (32) at Via Manzoni 4 (00 39 051 219 3930; bit.ly/ MuseoBol),
is a 10minute walk from the Malpighi stop, along Via Ugo Bassi. The
museum has Medieval and Renaissance treasures, from a Venetian
courtesan's shoes, to jaunty sarcophagi of university lecturers. It is open
10am6.30pm at weekends (closed Monday; €5).
Icing on the cake
Next door, at number 2, is Palazzo Fava (1) (00 39 422 429999;
lineadombra.it; €12), where the Dutch Golden Age exhibition is being held.
It's open 9am8pm daily (to 9pm Friday and Sunday; to 10pm Saturday).
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