52648740 rmg industry of bangladesh ready made garments industry

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1. INTRODUCTION 1. INTRODUCTION The Ready –Made Garments (RMG) sector of Bangladesh has emerged as the biggest earner of foreign currency. The RMG sector has experienced an exponential growth since the 1980s. The sector contributes significantly to the GDP. It also provides employment to around 4.2 million Bangladeshis. An overwhelming number of workers in this sector are women. This has affected the social status of many women coming from low income families. Bangladesh-origin products met quality standards of customers in North America and Western Europe, and prices were satisfactory. Business flourished right from the start; many owners made back their entire capital investment within a year or two and thereafter continued to realize great profits. Some 85 percent of Bangladeshi production was sold to North American customers, and virtually overnight Bangladesh became the sixth largest supplier to the North American market. After foreign businesses began building a ready-made garment industry, Bangladeshi capitalists appeared, and a veritable rush of them began to organize companies in Dhaka, Chittagong, and smaller towns, where basic garments--men's and boys' cotton shirts, women's and girls' blouses, shorts, and baby clothes--were cut and assembled, packed, and shipped to customers overseas (mostly in the United States). With virtually no government regulation, the number of firms proliferated; no definitive count was available, but there were probably more than 400 firms by 1985, when the boom was peaking. After just a few years, the ready-made garment industry employed more than 200,000 people. According to some estimates, about 80 percent were women, which was never noticed previously in the industrial work force. Many of them were woefully underpaid and worked under harsh conditions. The net benefit to the Bangladeshi economy was only a fraction of export receipts, since virtually all materials used in garment manufacture were imported; practically all the value added in Bangladesh was from labor. 1

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Page 1: 52648740 RMG Industry of Bangladesh Ready Made Garments Industry

1. INTRODUCTION1. INTRODUCTION

The Ready –Made Garments (RMG) sector of Bangladesh has emerged as the biggest

earner of foreign currency. The RMG sector has experienced an exponential growth since

the 1980s. The sector contributes significantly to the GDP. It also provides employment

to around 4.2 million Bangladeshis. An overwhelming number of workers in this sector

are women. This has affected the social status of many women coming from low income

families. Bangladesh-origin products met quality standards of customers in North

America and Western Europe, and prices were satisfactory. Business flourished right

from the start; many owners made back their entire capital investment within a year or

two and thereafter continued to realize great profits. Some 85 percent of Bangladeshi

production was sold to North American customers, and virtually overnight Bangladesh

became the sixth largest supplier to the North American market.

After foreign businesses began building a ready-made garment industry, Bangladeshi

capitalists appeared, and a veritable rush of them began to organize companies in Dhaka,

Chittagong, and smaller towns, where basic garments--men's and boys' cotton shirts,

women's and girls' blouses, shorts, and baby clothes--were cut and assembled, packed,

and shipped to customers overseas (mostly in the United States). With virtually no

government regulation, the number of firms proliferated; no definitive count was

available, but there were probably more than 400 firms by 1985, when the boom was

peaking.

After just a few years, the ready-made garment industry employed more than 200,000

people. According to some estimates, about 80 percent were women, which was never

noticed previously in the industrial work force. Many of them were woefully underpaid

and worked under harsh conditions. The net benefit to the Bangladeshi economy was

only a fraction of export receipts, since virtually all materials used in garment

manufacture were imported; practically all the value added in Bangladesh was from

labor.

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2. RMG SECTOR IN BANGLADESH2. RMG SECTOR IN BANGLADESH

The RMG industry cuts and stitches the finished product into apparel, which is then

marketed. Bangladesh entered the export market of apparels in 1978 with only 9

units and earned only $0.069 million. During the last two decades this sector has

achieved a phenomenal growth, due to policy support of the government and

dynamism of the private sector entrepreneurs. Now the number of RMG units is

around 4,000 and the export earnings have reached at $6.40 billion. For the moment,

2.0 million garment workers are working in the RMG units, of whom 80 per cent are

women. RMG roughly covers 76 per cent of the total export of the country and is the

highest earning industry in the economy. Study shows that the RMG sector and

related upstream and downstream activities are estimated to contribute an income of

about $ 5.0 billion which is equivalent to about 9.0 per cent of Bangladesh's current

GDP. RMG business started in the late 70s as a negligible non-traditional sector with

a narrow export base and by the year 1983 it emerged as a promising export earning

sector. Over the past one and half decade, RMG export earnings have increased by

more than 8 times with an exceptional growth rate of 16.5 percent per annum. In

FY06, earnings reached about 8 billion USD, which was only less than a billion USD

in FY91. Excepting FY02, the industry registered significant positive growth

throughout this period.

Figure: Trend of RMG Export Volume, Export Growth and Contribution to GDP

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Source: Export Promotion Bureau (EPB) and Economic Trends, Bangladesh Bank

In terms of GDP, RMG’s contribution is highly remarkable; it reaches 13 percent of GDP

which was only about 3 percent in FY91. This is a clear indication of the industry’s

contribution to the overall economy. It also plays a pivotal role to promote the

development of other key sectors of the economy like banking, insurance, shipping, hotel,

tourism, road transportation, railway container services, etc. A 1999 study found the

industry supporting approximately USD 2.0 billion worth of economic activities

(Bhattacharya and Rahman), when the value of exports stood at a little over USD 4.0

billion. The sector has created jobs for about two million people of which 80 percent are

women who mostly come from rural areas. The sector opened up employment

opportunities for many more individuals through direct and indirect economic activities,

which eventually helps the country’s social development, woman empowerment and

poverty alleviation.

3. FACTOR ENDOWMENT3. FACTOR ENDOWMENT

Factor conditions for Bangladeshi Clothing industry are skilled human resources and vast

labor force, government supports for textile and clothing technological upgrades, creation

of textile and clothing villages, special economic/export processing zones, duty reduction

for the import of inputs/machines, incentive for use of local inputs, income tax reduction,

and international supports like GSP, GSP+, duty free access etc.

3.1. Labor

RMG is a labor intensive industry. Since Bangladesh is a labor-abundant country, it is

logical for Bangladesh to demonstrate its comparative advantage in clothing. Because of

the abundance of labor, the labor cost of Bangladesh is also very low compared to the

other developing countries. The wages paid to RMG workers in Bangladesh are the

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lowest even by the South Asian regional standard, which can be easily understand from

the following table-

But for gaining the comparative advantage, more than physical abundance, other things

like- availability of skilled labor, management skills, efficiency and productivity of

labour, education and training facilities are more important. In Bangladesh, the garment

workers are mostly women with little education and training. The employment of an

uneven number of unskilled labors by the garment factories results in low productivity

and comparatively more expensive apparels. Bangladesh labor productivity is known to

be lower when compared with that of Sri Lanka, South Korea and Hong Kong SAR.

Bangladesh must look for ways to improve the productivity of its labor force if it wants to

compete regionally if not globally.

3.2. CAPITAL

With the growth of RMG sector, Bangladeshi entrepreneurs also acquired the expertise of

mobilizing resources to export-oriented RMG industries. Foreign buyers found

Bangladesh an increasingly attractive sourcing place. To take advantage of this cheap

source, foreign buyers extended, in many cases, suppliers' credit under special

arrangements. In some cases, local banks provided part of the equity capital. The problem

of working capital was greatly solved with the introduction of back-to-back letter of

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credit, which also facilitated import of quality fabric, the basic raw material of the

industry.

The investment pattern that took place between 2000 to 2004 has a varying trend.

Investment volume didn’t correspond with how many factories were established. The

amount of capital investment in RMG sector from 200 to 2004 is shown in the following

table-

Capital Investment in the RMG Sector

Calendar Year Basis

Value in Crore

Taka

Year

Total

New

Factory

Total

Investment

Woven

Factory Invest.

Knit

Fact. Invest.

Sweate

r

Factory Invest.

Woven

Knit

Fact. Invest.

200

0 234 351.20 125

187.5

0 52 31.20 32 80.00 25 52.50

200

1 225 327.80 99

148.5

0 67 40.20 38 95.00 21 44.10

200

2 152 270.30 46 69.00 31 18.60 63

157.5

0 12 25.20

200

3 172 328.60 36 54.00 34 20.40 100

250.0

0 2 4.20

200

4 201 373.10 60 90.00 34 20.40 95

237.5

0 12 25.20

Source: BGMEA new membership file. Calendar Year Basis

From the above table we can observe that there has been a huge fluctuation in the amount

of investment. The fluctuation of capital investment cannot be explained by reason of the

post-MFA factor only. Although it may be a reason it is not the only reason. The relative

prospect of other sectors or the increased capital cost may also account for the variation.

Moreover, the RMG sector has been witnessing a declining trend since early 2007 when

an army-backed caretaker government took over the power. Many businessmen were in

hide at that time. When an elected government assumed the power in 2009, the energy

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crisis came to the front as a major barrier to the growth of the sector. Still, gas and

electricity connection is kept off.

However After a prolonged slowdown in demand, import of capital machinery and

industrial raw materials has bounced back strongly in the fiscal year 2011, reflecting a

bright prospect for the country’s RMG sector.

A jump in export orders for readymade garments (RMG) and the demand for equipment

to set up power plants have fuelled the import splurge, according to bankers and

industrialists.

Bangladesh Bank statistics show the letters of credit (LCs) settled for capital machinery

import were worth $975 million during the first half of the fiscal year 2010, up by 35

percent from $722 million for the same period a year ago.

3.3. RAW MATERIALS

The RMG industries in Bangladesh mostly depend on imported raw materials.

Bangladesh imports raw materials for garments like cotton, thread colour, Yarn, fibre,

etc. This dependence on raw materials hampers the development of garments industry.

Moreover, foreign suppliers often supply low quality materials, which result in low

quality products. A large proportion of the raw materials for RMG are imported from

countries such as India, China, America, Uzbekistan and Thailand under back-to-back

letter of credit facility. It is an advantage for RMG sector of BD. Depending on the

buyer’s requirement Bangladesh can import raw materials from best sources. About 70%

knit raw materials are produced in Bangladesh. About 90% of woven fabrics and 60% of

knit fabrics are imported to make garments for export.

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The fabric requirement in the RMG sector for year 1999-2000 is shown in the following

table-

FABRIC REQUIREMENT IN THE RMG SECTOR OF BANGLADESH

(IN MILLION METRES)

WOVEN FABRIC KNIT FABRIC

Year Requirement Local Imported %Of Requirement Local Imported % Of (In Million Production (Short

Fall)

Short (In Million Production (Short

Fall)

Short

Metre) (In

Million

(In

Million

Fall Metre) (In

Million

(In

Million

Fall)

Metre) Metre) Metre) Metre)

1999

-

2000

1234 197 1037 84 815 432 383 47

2000

-

2001

1317 237 1080 82 943 566 377 40

2001

-

2002

1386 277 1109 80 1140 775 365 32

Source: Report of Gherzi Textile Organisation (GTO), Zurich, Switzerland And Project Promotion & Management Associates (PPMA), Dhaka

The industry is based primarily on sub-contracting, under which Bangladeshi

entrepreneurs work as sub-contractors of foreign buyers. It has grown by responding to

orders placed by foreign buyers on C-M (Cut and Make) basis. During its early years, the

buyers supplied all the fabrics and accessories or recommended the sources of supply

from which Bangladeshi sub-contractors were required to import the fabrics. However,

situation has improved. At present, there are many large firms, which do their own

sourcing. About 70% knit raw materials are produced in Bangladesh

• Key Success Factors for the Industry

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Labor costs

Prices

Quality

Delivery time

Long business relationship with key buyers

Energy Cost

New textile mills in Bangladesh are cost competitive compared to imports from Korean

and Indian spinning mills. Given the choice, domestic weavers and spinners prefer to use

locally produced yarn as prices are slightly lower and since there is no involvement of

shipping costs and delivery is more reliable.

3.4. TECHNOLOGY

Bangladesh was ranked 15th in the potential countries for investors and businessmen in

2010, but it was 28th in 2009. The country has recently been identified as one of the

world's top 30 emerging nations in IT services and because of this advancement of IT

sector our RMG sectors are becoming more competitive.

With cheap labor, Bangladesh RMG industries are continuously using some technical

machinery to make more apparel within short period of time. For example, the machinery

cuts the clothes of same size at a time. Labeling also takes a few touches of people. This

system saves time and promotes the timely delivery. As a result, BD’s export quality

increases.

The year 2005 showed two major trends in the world market for textile machineries:

firstly, a jump in shipments of circular-knitting machinery, mainly driven by shipments to

Asia in general, and to China in particular, secondly, significant reductions of

investments in such areas as weaving, texturing and flat-knitting machinery. In the

spinning sector the picture was mixed. While the shipments of short staple spindles rose,

those of long staple spindles and rotors declined. With the yearly global shipment of

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short-staple spindles in 2005 totaling around 11.2 million units (an increase of 7%

compared to 2004), China alone was the biggest investor in this sector (around 7.2million

short-staple spindles) followed by India (1.4 million), Pakistan (1 million) and

Bangladesh (0.54 million). In case of shuttle-less looms, the major market destination in

2005 was China – 61% (32633 shuttle-less looms) of the global shipment went to China –

compared to a mere 7% (3900 units) imported by Bangladesh.

3.5. INFRASTRUCTURE

The most urgent and important task for the Bangladesh RMG industry is shortening the

lead time; otherwise, international buyers may divert their attention towards other

suppliers for the importation of garment products in the current quota-free business

environment. The best option for Bangladesh is to improve its deep-level competitiveness

by reducing total “production and distribution” time, which will improve surface-level

competitiveness by reducing lead time.

Some factors constraining competitiveness of Bangladesh’s RMG exports included the

absence of adequate physical infrastructure and utilities (e.g., transportation,

telecommunication, stable power supply, efficient seaport, political tolerance, quality

control and a smoothly functioning bureaucracy). According to a recent World Bank-IFC

publication (2006) records that a businessman in Bangladesh needs 35 days to export and

incurs USD 902 per container, whereas his counterpart in India requires 27 days and

spends USD 864 per container. The comparable figures for Pakistan, Sri Lanka and

Vietnam are 24 days and USD 996, 25 days and USD 797, and 35 days and USD 701,

respectively.

The existence of sound infrastructural facilities is a prerequisite for economic

development. In Bangladesh, continuing growth of the RMG sector is dependent on the

development of a strong backward linkage in order to reduce the lead time. The issue of

lead time is one of the major factors that determine competitive edge. Whilst the average

lead time for a woven item ranges between 90-120 days for Bangladesh, for China it

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ranges between 45-60 days. Following Table shows us the average lead time of woven

and knit items of some of the major clothing competitors of Bangladesh.

(Average No. of Days)

TABLE: AVERAGE LEAD TIME OF KNIT AND WOVEN GARMENTS OF SOME

SELECTED COUNTRIES

This long lead time in Bangladesh is mainly due to the absence of a strong integrated

backward industry. In recent years development of spinning sector has contributed

significantly to the development of an integrated knitwear industry, in Bangladesh with

about 90% fabrics being supplied by domestic spinning and weaving sector. However, in

the weaving sector only about 25-30% of the need of the export-oriented apparels sector

is supplied by domestic suppliers. Indeed, it is the strong backward linkage that gives

China her comparative advantage in apparels production and export. Putting in place a

competitive upstream industries in spinning/weaving continue to remain a major

challenge for Bangladesh.

It has been estimated that this lead time can be reduced to 55 – 75 days if the fabrics

could be sourced locally. Bangladesh’s geographical location also does not help. First,

the raw material (yarn/fabrics) carrying vessels from China or other countries reach the

Chittagong port via Malaysia or Singapore (25 – 30 days). From the port it takes another

week to reach the factory mainly because of the bureaucratic customs procedure. Once

the product is ready for export it takes another few days to deliver to the port and

complete the customs procedure. Once everything is done, the consignments are then

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shipped to Singapore or Malaysia to be loaded in the mother vessels for the journey to

either Europe or North America (another 28 – 30 days) (Following Figure).

FIGURE: OPTIMAL LEAD TIME FOR WOVEN ITEMS (RECEIVING OF LC TO

DELIVERY TO FINAL DESTINATION)

In order to reduce the lead time the option of establishing Central Bonded Warehouse

(CBW) for certain items (with careful examination of interest of local industries) should

be considered with due urgency. Similarly, SAARC Cumulation which is hanging in the

air for a long time needs also be addressed on an urgent basis. Simultaneously, there is a

need for complete overhauling and upgrading of facilities in the Chittagong port.

Improvements in infrastructural and transport logistics and streamlining of the import

policy by removing cumbersome procedures are a necessity. Substantial upgradation of

the national electricity grid is a must for uninterrupted supply of power; at present this is

available only to the EPZ which contributes about 15% of the country’s total RMG

export.

However, other factors constraining competitiveness of Bangladesh’s RMG exports

included the absence of adequate physical infrastructure and utilities (e.g., transportation,

telecommunication, stable power supply, efficient seaport, political tolerance, quality

control and a smoothly functioning bureaucracy).

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4. LOCAL DEMAND CONDITION4. LOCAL DEMAND CONDITION

In 1971, the eastern part of Pakistan became the sovereign state of Bangladesh. At that

time, Bangladesh had only a few composite cotton mills situated at Narayanganj and

Chittagong, but their productions were very negligible compared to huge demands of the

local market.

In 1980, Readymade Garment (RMG) factories began to flourish and became the highest

foreign currency earning sector of Bangladesh, maintaining a vital role in Bangladesh’s

economy. Wanting to compete in the world market, the Bangladesh government and

business segments invested in and developed backward linkage industries to feed the

RMG sectors. Considering the population, the local market required at least 200 million

meters of fabrics, of which only about 100 million meters of fabrics were produced in

Bangladesh. Since then, the local business communities have been setting up mills

rapidly. In 2005, the total number of spindles rose to about 5 million, producing more

than 700 million kilograms of yarn per year.The spinning mills continue to increase

tremendously to meet the requirement of the RMG sector and the hand- and power-loom

sectors, which have been increasing rapidly around the area of Narsingdi, Tangail,

Sirajganj, Kustia, Barisal and Faridpur. These places have become famous for producing

domestic consuming products like shawls, sarees, lungis, bed sheets and gamchha (local

towel). These hand- and power-loom sectors are producing more than 100 million meters

of cloth annually. Under the Rural Electrification Program by “Palli Biddut Sangstha,”

the hand-looms are being gradually converted to power-looms and thus production

capacity is increasing rapidly to meet the demands of population growth.

Apart from increasing power-looms, the RMG and knitting sectors are also developing

rapidly in Bangladesh. The volume of knitting industries increased about 10 times faster

than the pre-liberation period, and it is continuing to grow simultaneously with the

demand of RMG sector. Currently, there are about 2,500 knitting units, producing about

1,500 million meters of fabrics per year. Accordingly, consumption of yarn by the

knitting sector is also increasing rapidly which ultimately encourages entrepreneurs to set

up new spinning mills quickly to meet the huge demand.

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Besides this sector, the yarns of local spinning mills are also used in many weaving

factories, which produce about 700 million meter fabrics per year. These fabrics are

mainly used in the domestic market, but some of their special quality fabrics which are

made per specific order are used by the garments factories, especially when some

garments buyers place an order without supplying fabrics from abroad. Contribution of

textile sectors to the GDP is more than 5%. This sector is alone accounted for 76% of

national export earning in 2003/04. For all these reasons, the textile sector has been

declared by the government as the Thrust Sector for the country’s economy. The table

below outlines the structure of the Bangladesh textile industry.

5. RELATED AND SUPPORTING INDUSTRIES5. RELATED AND SUPPORTING INDUSTRIES

RMG industry in Bangladesh has already proved itself to be a resilient industry and can

be a catalyst for further industrialization in the country. However, this vital industry still

depends heavily on imported fabrics. After the liberalization of the quota regime some of

the major textile suppliers Thailand, India, China, Hong Kong, Indonesia and Taiwan

increased their own RMG exports. Currently, Bangladeshi apparel exporters import

fabrics at international prices using back-to-back letter of credit. While procuring through

back-to-back L/C, the importers (Bangladeshi exporters of apparels) pay high interest and

other charges, commissions, fees for the services of the middlemen involved. The

establishment of composite mills or individual units of weaving, spinning and processing

will reduce lead time and increase value addition and employment, in addition to

improving the cost advantages.

Figure 2: Trend of Back-to-Back Import

Source: Foreign Exchange Policy Department (FEPD), Bangladesh Bank

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Bangladesh export-oriented Readymade Garments (RMG) Manufacturing and Primary

Textile (PT) sector with back up support of the Accessory (trimming & packaging)

industries, contribute 76 percent to total export-earnings of the country. So we can

demand a separate ministry for RMG (Apparel) industry here in Bangladesh. Supporting

industries supply inputs raw materials, which are important to the competitiveness of any

industry. Bangladesh is self-sufficient in knit fabric while accessories and trims suppliers

are more competitive to support the clothing industry. These industries provide cost-

effective inputs and upgrading process, thus stimulating other companies in the chain to

innovate.

With the growth of RMG industry, linkage industries supplying fabrics, yarns,

accessories, packaging materials, etc. have also expanded. The following chart shows the

additional service sectors where employment is increasing-

.

Moreover with the growth of RMG packaging industry is also flourishing in Bangladesh.

A USA-Turkey company is going to invest US$ 5.548 million to set up a garments

accessories manufacturing industry in the Adamjee Export Processing Zone, reports

UNB. Hundred per cent foreign owned company, r-Pac Bangladesh Packaging Co Ltd,

will produce barcode, price ticket, care labels, woven labels, integrated labels, offset

labels, hang tag, security labels etc. An agreement, to this effect, was signed between the

INDIRECT

EMPLOYMENT

CREATED BY

RMG INDUSTRY

(200,000 WORKERS)

TRANSPORTATION BANKINGSHIPPING &

INSURANCE

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Bangladesh Export Processing Zones Authority (BEPZA) and the r-Pac Bangladesh

Packaging Co Ltd at BEPZA Complex on 19th of September, 2007

6. STRATEGY, STRUCTURE AND RIVALRY OF6. STRATEGY, STRUCTURE AND RIVALRY OF

RMG SECTOR RMG SECTOR IN BANGLADESH

The quota regime under the MFA was a crucial factor in providing the initial stimuli to

the emergence of the e-o RMG sector in Bangladesh and in sustaining its subsequent

momentum over the last decade and half. The RMG record also does credit to

Bangladeshi entrepreneurs who quickly learnt the art of the business from their quota-

hopping partners from South Korea and Hong Kong. Current e-o RMG production is

overwhelmingly a Bangladeshi-private sector dominated activity. Domestic policies

including bonded warehouse facilities, duty drawback incentive, cash compensation

scheme, and the facility of procuring raw materials -- mainly fabrics -- under back-to-

back Letters of Credit (L/Cs) also played an important role in the growth of the sector.

Thus a combination of global opportunities, private sector entrepreneurial spirit and

favorable government policies had combined to stimulate the emergence and thriving of

the e-o apparels sector in Bangladesh.

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6.1. SUPPORTING FACTORS

In the course of the last decade, the growth of domestic supply capacities was

instrumental in attracting major global buyers to Bangladesh who saw locational

advantage in placing bulk orders for mass-produced apparels items. This helped

Bangladesh emerge as a major player in the global apparels market. In 2003 Bangladesh's

position as supplier of apparels was tenth in the U.S. market, and second in the EU

market. Preferential market access in the EU under the EC Generalized System of

Preferences (GSP) Scheme, which accorded Bangladesh -- as a Least Developed Country

(LDC) -- zero-tariff and quota-free access, also provided Bangladeshi exporters of

apparels crucial market access advantage. There was a relatively secured market access in

the USA under the MFA quota regime, and duty-free, quota-free market access in the EU

(while quotas were imposed on most of its competitors from developing countries). These

provided Bangladesh an opportunity to translate its low wage-based comparative

advantage in the production of apparels into revealed comparative advantage in the global

market.

6.2. EXPORT PERFORMANCE

Bangladesh's export of apparels rose from US$ 2.23 billion in FY1995 to US$ 5.69

billion in FY2004, registering an average robust growth of 10.2 per cent per annum. In

FY2004, out of a total export of US$ 7.60 billion, US$ 5.67 billion or 74.8 per cent was

contributed by the country's apparels sector (46.5 per cent from woven and 28.3 per cent

from knitwear sub-sectors). In recent years, about 90 per cent of incremental export has

been accounted for by export of apparels. The ratio between knitwear and woven apparels

in total apparels export from Bangladesh changed from 18:82 in FY1995 to 38:62 in

FY2004, underwritten by an increasingly strong market presence of knitwear in the

European market; thanks to strong backward linkage in the knitwear sector, and

preferential market access in the EU. Local value retention is also higher in the knitwear

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sector, about 60 per cent, compared to an average of 30 per cent for the woven sector.

Together the net export earnings from apparels would be about US$ 3.0 billon.

6.3. GROWING IMPORTANCE

The RMG sector's contribution to Bangladesh's balance of payments and foreign

exchange reserves cannot be exaggerated. Bangladesh's RMG sector employs about 1.8

million workers in 3600 factories, which is about one-fourth of the number of employees

engaged in the manufacturing sector. About 70 per cent of the workers in the RMG

factories are women. A study undertaken by the Centre for Policy Dialogue (CPD),

Dhaka, shows that the e-o RMG sector and related upstream and downstream activities

are estimated to contribute an income of about US$ 5.0 billion; this was equivalent to

about 9 per cent of Bangladesh's current GDP. Comparatively, over the same period

Bangladesh's net disbursement of aid was to the tune of only about US$ 800 million.

Hence, it is not difficult to understand why a scrutiny of the possible implications of the

impending change in the global apparels trade regime in the context of the phase out of

the MFA is of such critical importance to Bangladesh.

6.4. Multifiber Arrangement (MFA)

The MFA allows importing countries (mainly high income economies) to negotiate

quotas (quantitative restriction) with exporting countries (mainly emerging economies).

In addition to quotas, high income countries can also place tariffs (taxes) on imported

products like textile and clothing. As an emerging country, Bangladesh has already been

depended on textile and clothing for over half their merchandise export. So, the MFA is

important for Bangladesh to achieve competitive strength in the world market.

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6.4. 1. Post-MFA Scenario

Looming Uncertainty

It is to be noted in this context that if the phase-out under the MFA had been evenly

distributed, its possible implications would have been relatively clearer by now.

However, because the quotas are back-loaded, most of the apparel categories presently

under MFA quota were derestricted only at the last stage of the phase-out i.e., January 01,

2005. Consequently, for countries such as Bangladesh, for most of the quota categories

exported by it at present, the de-restriction has begun only recently. In the EU, where

Bangladesh has enjoyed quota-free market access, for most of these same categories of

apparels, quotas will remain for its non-LDC competitors. Accordingly, in case of

Bangladesh, as for many other countries, the thrust of the impact of MFA quota de-

restriction was felt all at once, in January 2005. This is one of the major reasons behind

the looming uncertainty in the context of the post-MFA global trading regime in apparels.

Global Apparels Market

The challenge of facing the MFA phase-out is being reinforced by a number of other

important developments in the global apparels market. These are likely to amplify the

challenges of quota de-restriction for countries such as Bangladesh. China's accession to

the WTO in November 2001, which allowed it to export apparels to the U.S., EU and

other markets on Most Favored Nation (MFN) basis, will have a major impact on global

trade in apparels. This is particularly important for Bangladesh since China exports many

apparels items in which Bangladesh has traditionally enjoyed strong market presence in

the USA and the EU. New entrants to the global apparels market such as Vietnam,

Cambodia and Lesotho are also expected to pose a formidable challenge to Bangladesh in

some of its traditional markets of mass produced apparels. The global trading regime in

apparels is also changing very significantly: fashion seasons are becoming shorter and

buyers are no longer ready to wait for 90-120 days after placing export orders. In the

post-MFA period, ability to shorten the lead-time is likely to become crucial for being

considered as a possible source by buyers. At present Bangladesh has a strong backward

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linkage in knit-segment of the e-o RMG sector, with 80 per cent of the knit-fabrics being

sourced from local knitting units. However, in case of woven-segment, only 15 per cent

of the fabrics required by the RMG industry can be met from local sources, with the rest

(85 per cent) being imported from countries such as India, Pakistan, Hong Kong and

Taiwan. A relatively longer lead-time is becoming an important constraining factor for

Bangladesh in the context of quota phase-out since buyers will be free to import apparels

from fabric-producing countries capable of supplying export orders on short notice.

China, Pakistan and India are likely to take advantage of this situation.

The average price of apparels items is likely to fall considerably once the quota premium

goes following quota-derestriction. Competitive pressure will lead to erosion of quota-

premium and push prices down; the signs are already there in the global market.

Consequently, Bangladeshi exporters will be forced to reduce their offer prices for

apparel items.A number of recent market access initiatives have provided preferential

market access to many of Bangladesh's competitors, particularly in the U.S. market where

Bangladesh does not enjoy duty-free access. Such initiatives include regional trading

alliances such as NAFTA, bilateral FTAs and other preferential arrangements such as

US-Vietnam trade agreement and, more particularly, non-reciprocal regional initiatives

such as the AGOA, and the CBI. Mauritius and the Lesotho, which produce some mass

produced items similar to Bangladesh's, have been able to take advantage of the

preferential treatment under the AGOA, particularly due to the derogation in terms of the

Rules of Origin (RoO).

Further lowering of the MFN tariffs under the ongoing negotiations on non-agricultural

market access (NAMA) is likely to lead to a gradual erosion of the preferences margin

accrued to countries such as Bangladesh under the various GSP schemes.

Because of e-commerce and introduction of IT in the apparels trade, the buyer-customer

relationships and the nature of apparels business are undergoing important changes. In all

likelihood the role of buying-houses, which have traditionally been a crucial part in

apparels business in Bangladesh will be significantly diminished. In future apparels trade

retailer-producer direct contact will be the norm of the day. As a result, producers will be

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expected to take more responsibility in terms of design and quality of the apparels

products. Bangladesh's current buying-house intermediated apparels trade will also need

to take into account this evolving buyer-producer relationship. Consequently, the role of

forward linkage and direct marketing channels is also becoming very important for

Bangladesh's competitive presence in the global market.

Pressure on RMG units to comply with various standards, including environmental

standards, security concerns of importing countries, Social Accounting standards such as

SA-8000, are also expected to increase significantly. While these are likely to push up the

cost of production, their non-compliance will mean that buyers will be reluctant to place

orders with those factories. Thus, compliance issues are likely to become important for

Bangladesh's e-o RMG units, and this is likely to increase the cost of doing business in

apparels.

The upshot of the above discussion is that there are other important factors at play, along

with quota-derestriction. The impact of all these factors will come into play from the

beginning of 2005, and gradually unfold over the subsequent months and years.

6.4.2. MFA Phase-Out: The Emerging Scenario

Early Signals and Major Competitors

The major impact of MFA phase-out will be felt after the final phase-out in January 2005

and it is too early to make an assessment. However, the early signals stemming from the

first three phase-outs are already becoming visible; and these signals are quite disquieting

for Bangladesh. Bangladesh's export of apparels to the U.S. market has come down from

US$ 1956 million to US$ 1629 million between FY2002 and FY2004. This drop down

has also taken place in categories which have not been derestricted, substantiating the

argument that, in the new trading regime in apparels, factors other than quota

derestriction are also at play, including China's enhanced entry into the U.S. market,

following quota derestriction. A recent study by the American Textile Manufacturing

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Institute (ATMI) shows that China's shipments of apparels categories that were removed

from quota control has increased by an average of 794 per cent (in volume terms) since

2001. China's share in U.S. import of quota-derestricted items has gone up from 9 per

cent to 65 per cent (as of March, 2005). The corresponding share for Bangladesh has also

come down from 7 per cent to 2 per cent. An ongoing study at CPD, which examines the

impact of the MFA phase-out under the first three stages, provides an indication of the

challenges for Bangladesh's apparels industry. In the third stage of the phase-out, in

January 2002, out of the 31 quota categories for which there were quotas on Bangladesh's

exports to the US market one quota category was derestricted i.e. category 847 (trousers,

breeches and shorts). Bangladesh's export of this category fell from US $22.81 million in

2001 to $16.04 million in 2002 and to US$ 14.92 million in 2003 (by 29.7 per cent and

34.6 per cent respectively). China's export of this same category went up from $89.9

million to $559.9 million between 2001 and 2003. In 2001, prior to the third stage of the

phase-out, Bangladesh had exported US$ 354.29 million worth of apparels to the US

market in all categories which were integrated in the first three phases. In 2002 and 2003

export of these derestricted items fell to US$ 263.27 million and US $214.30 million (a

decrease of 25.7 per cent and 39.5 per cent compared to 2001).

In view of the above, it is significant to note that China's export of category 239 (babies

garments), which was derestricted in January 2002 (Bangladesh did not have any quota

for this item), went up from US$ 120.70 million to US$ 867.33 million between 2001 and

2003 (an increase by 618.6 per cent). Bangladesh's exports of this item came down from

US$ 96.82 million to US$ 66.48 million over the corresponding period (a decrease of

31.3 per cent). Similarly, in the case of another item, category 350/650 (robes, dressing

gowns), China's exports rose exponentially from US$ 33.68 million to US $199.31

million (an increase of 491.9 per cent), while Bangladesh's exports came down from

US$16.34 million to US $11.51 million (a decrease of 29.6 per cent). Thus, the China

factor is becoming a critical variable, and its importance as a major apparel exporter is

likely to increase manifold in the post-MFA period.

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BANGLADESH'S RELATIVE STRENGTHS

Low wages have traditionally been a major strength of Bangladesh's labour-intensive

apparels sector. The hourly wage rate in Bangladesh's apparels sector is lower than those

in China and Sri Lanka (US$ 0.39 as compared to US$ 0.69 and US$ 0.48 respectively);

however, wage rate of other competitors such as Pakistan and India are somewhat similar

to Bangladesh's, being US$ 0.41 and US$ 0.38 respectively (USITC, 2004). As data

shows, between 1997 and 2004 average price of Bangladesh's Knit-RMG has come down

from US$ 27.72 per dozen to US$ 23.45 per dozen, a fall of 15.4 per cent; for Woven

RMG average price has come down from US$ 41.87 to US$ 39.1, a fall of 6.6 per cent.

In recent years, the growth in export earnings from apparels sector has been possible by

expansion of export volume: volume-wise export of apparels has increased from 53.45

million dozens to 90.49 million dozens for woven RMG, and from 27.54 million dozens

to 91.60 million dozens for knit-RMG between 1997 and 2004. Bangladesh's strength has

traditionally been the capacity to supply mass produced apparels items such as T-shirts,

basic cotton shirts, pullovers and jackets, sweaters, and basic women's wear. Falling

prices under competitive pressure indicate that if Bangladesh is to sustain its market

presence, it will need to substantially enhance productivity. It is unlikely that producers

will be able to squeeze wages further. In this context, the government should support

recent initiatives by some of Bangladesh's exporters to move up market to more value

added products. A Fashion and Design Institute has been established to support the e-o

apparels sector. The capacity of this institute and its linkage with the RMG industry need

to be strengthened further.

Performance in the EU

Bangladesh's export to the EU has continued to rise sharply in recent years, notably after

quota derestriction in the third stage in January 2002. Between FY2002 and FY2004

export to the EU has increased from US$ 2411.5 million to $3652 million (or by about 51

per cent). This growth was underwritten both by the growth of knitwear export to the EU

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which increased from US$ 1019.7 million in FY2002 to US$ 1780.6 million in FY2004,

and woven apparels which registered a growth from US$ 1391.8 million to US$ 1871.2

million over the corresponding period. However, there is cause for concern in the EU

market as well. Bangladesh's export of items for which quota was derestricted in the EU

under the first three stages of MFA phase-out has indeed come down quite significantly

since 2002. As CPD analysis bears out, Bangladesh's export to the EU, in the 17 quota

categories which have been derestricted till now, has come down from US$ 204.2 million

to US$ 124.3 million between 2001 and 2003, or by about 40 per cent. This ought to be

of much concern to Bangladesh.

6.4.3. Strategies for Post-MFA Era

Need for Investment

Bangladesh will need to take energetic steps to address the emerging challenges from the

market place. There is an increasing sign of defensive restructuring within the

Bangladesh's RMG sector. Data on import of textile and RMG machineries indicate that

the larger apparel units are positioning themselves to access the opportunities emerging

from a quota-free trade regime in apparels. However, the smaller factories, many of

which have been working on a sub-contract basis until now, may not be able to survive

under the new environment. This may lead to a situation where a smaller number of well-

organized, technology-driven factories, benefiting from economies of scale, compliance

assurance capacity and competitive strength, may come to dominate the country's

apparels sector. This may lead to the exit of a large number of smaller firms, meaning

large-scale lay-offs. Thus, while the overall export of apparels may not decrease

significantly, at least in the near future, there may be disproportionately large-scale lay-

offs. In view of such an outcome, some stakeholders have put forward the proposal of a

Contingency Fund to be created with support from the government and entrepreneurs'

association. This fund could be utilized for such activities as skill up gradation to enhance

productivity, re-skill of workers to enable them to search for alternative income

generating opportunities, and for providing credit facilities to redundant workers.

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Consequently, establishment of strong backward linkage in spinning and weaving will

assume critical importance for Bangladesh.

A CPD study shows that an investment of about US $5.0 billion will be required to put in

place the required backward linkage industries: US $2.8 billion in spinning, US$ 1.2

billion in weaving and US$ 1.0 billion in dyeing finishing. A report on 'Post-MFA

Development Strategy and Technical Assistance for the RMG Sector', prepared by

Gherzi Textil Organisation, Switzerland, for the Ministry of Commerce (MOC),

Bangladesh has come out with the proposal that to meet the challenges after 2004, it will

need to set up 45 Spinning mills, 82 Weaving mills, 81 Knitting and Knit Processing

mills, and 51 Woven Processing mills. This will require an investment of US$ 2.3 billion.

Strengthening backward linkage in textiles is crucial for Bangladesh in meeting the

challenge of post-MFA regime. This is important not only to enhance the competitive

strength of Bangladesh but also to reduce the lead-time. There are already signs of

ongoing technological up gradation in Bangladesh's apparels industry. Over the past five

years (FY2000-FY2004) about $800.0 million worth of machineries have been imported

for e-o apparels and textile sectors of the country. However, technological up gradation is

mainly concentrated in the so-called 'smart factories' which refer to the relatively and

technologically larger and more advanced ones. There is a need for a comprehensive

strategy to strengthen both backward linkage in apparels, and the state of technology in

the apparels sector itself. Experts have suggested that the GOB should set up a

Technology Up gradation Fund for the apparels/textile sectors to help promote adoption

of new technology, facilitate process and product modification, support upward

movement along the value chain, provide credit at favourable rates and encourage other

productivity enhancing initiatives. China has been able to bring down price of apparels by

about 44 per cent from US$ 6.23 per square metre to US$ 3.37 per square metre once

quotas on apparels were removed in 2002. It will not be easy for Bangladesh to sustain

such downward pressure on prices without significantly raising the productivity in the

country's apparels sector.

Backward and Forward Linkages

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Global trade in apparels has traditionally functioned under buyer-driven supply chains.

However, there are growing signs that, while under the quota regime it was global buyers

who had come to Bangladesh's producers, under a quota-free regime Bangladeshi

producers will be required to go to the global buyers. Efficient marketing channels and

direct contacts with buyers are likely to become crucial factors of market presence in a

post-MFA world. Of no less importance will be the issue of substantially bringing down

the lead-time. The days of 90 days lead-time will be over. Serious effort must be made to

further strengthen backward linkages for producing fabrics, particularly for providing

inputs to the export-oriented woven-RMG sector. At the same time, to reduce the lead-

time setting up of central bonded warehouses, to begin with for fabrics that are not

produced in Bangladesh, will need to be given serious consideration. Efficient

infrastructure services and port facilities, reduced administrative hassles and a conducive

investment environment will be necessary to bring down the cost of doing business in

Bangladesh. Development of land ports with regional countries, and Bangladesh's

seaports, where the average turnaround period is 5-6 days compared to 1-2 days in other

ports in the region, must be given top priority if the lead-time is to be effectively reduced.

Preferential margins under the various GSP schemes are set to suffer erosion as partner

countries bring down their tariffs. In view of this, there should be renewed effort towards

global zero-tariff access under LDC-friendly rules of origin (RoO).

GOB initiatives

The Post-MFA Implementation Team set up by the Government of Bangladesh has

identified six core areas for training and skills up gradation: (i) Productivity

Management, (ii) Quality Management, (iii) Compliance Norms, (iv) Merchandising, (v)

Marketing, and (vi) Inventory Management. GOB estimates show that these activities

will require an amount equivalent to $40.0 million. However, till now availability of

funds for these activities has been very low. There is an urgent need to mobilize domestic

resources and trade-related technical assistance (TRTA) from development partners in

support of these programs. The government has recently taken a number of steps to

address the concerns of the e-o RMG industry of the country. These include reduced

number of steps in terms of customs clearance from 56 to 12, has revised schedule of

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down payment for repayment of loan by RMG entrepreneurs and has eliminated tax on

electively for the sector.

More Focus on Winning Items

Analysis carried out at CPD to assess the export performance of categories, which have

been derestricted under the first, second and third phase-outs of the MFA mandated under

the ATC shows that even at the 10-digit level there are apparel items where Bangladesh

continues to enjoy revealed comparative advantage in the global market. Bangladesh has

been able to expand its exports of a number of such items after these were derestricted.

For example, of the 46 quota categories derestricted in the second phase, Bangladesh

exported apparels items in 26 categories. Under these quota categories, 112 apparel items

at 10-digit level were exported by Bangladesh. Total earnings from exports of these items

have risen from $86.4 million to $94.4 million between 1998 and 2002, with a number of

items being able to make significant gains. Once imports of such items are derestricted,

can expand export in these apparel items. Analysis of unit price levels bears evidence of

Bangladesh's competitive strength in some major categories, primarily in such items as

mass-produced shirts, men's wear, jackets, sweaters, etc. This competitive strength should

allow Bangladeshi exporters of these particular items to expand their export. There is no

place for complacency though. The present upsurge of export in some items, more

precisely knitwear items, and more particularly, in the European Union, bears this out. It

should be noted here that quotas are still in place on most of the categories where

Bangladesh is demonstrating strong growth in the EU and Bangladesh's exporters taking

advantage of the quota-free access to the EU market. Analysis shows that there are a

number of apparel items where it will be extremely difficult to sustain the competitive

pressure from suppliers in China, India, Vietnam, Mauritius, Turkey and some of the

Caribbean countries once the quotas are gone.

China as the Contender

It is true that under China's WTO accession provisions, the U.S. may take recourse to

safeguard measures against the surge of imports of apparels from China if this growth is

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perceived to have caused disruption and serious material injury to its domestic producers.

Safeguard measures allow putting cap of 7 per cent on growth of import from China and

will be in place till 2008; USA has already applied such measures selectively on export of

a number of apparel items by China. There are special product specific safeguard

measures, which the U.S. may continue to practice till 2012, albeit subject to more

stringent provisions. However, despite some safeguards already in place, and the threat of

new safeguards, China is likely to dominate the emerging global apparels trade scenario.

Market analyses indicate that for Bangladesh, China will be the country to watch out. In a

number of apparels categories India, Vietnam, Turkey, Cambodia and other countries will

be Bangladesh's major competitors.

Defensive Restructuring

It is encouraging to note that within the country the early signs of defensive restructuring

in the apparels sector are already becoming visible. The so-called smart factories have

started to re-strategies and reposition themselves in preparation for the inevitable changes

consequent to the quota phase-out. A number of factories are moving out of the Dhaka

city where most of the factories have traditionally been located; entrepreneurs are

consolidating production to ensure economies of scale; some garment clusters are taking

shape. There is a need to support this process through public sector investment in

providing common services including infrastructure and utility, common facilities, such

as water affluent facilities, training of workers and in other related areas. In this context,

idea of setting up garment pallis (garment villages) with common facilities needs to be

promoted through concrete action.

On the Radar Screen of Global Buyers

There are indications that once quotas are derestricted the number of sourcing countries

will be reduced from the current level of 50 to about 8-10. However, as a recent study

shows, Bangladesh will continue to remain on the radar screen of major global retail

chains (USITC, 2004). There are apparel items where Bangladeshi firms have

demonstrated their capacity to emerge as major global suppliers. Global giant retail

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chains such as Wal-Mart, GAP and H & M have opened offices in Bangladesh in recent

years, and are planning to continue to work with Bangladesh's producers on a long-term

basis. However, their behavior will be dictated by the ability of Bangladeshi

entrepreneurs to offer apparels at a competitive price, in accordance with quality

specifications, and within the required time. Pragmatic initiatives will need to be taken to

design a package of support to help the domestic backward linkage textile industry to

remain competitive in an increasingly competitive market for fabrics. Reducing the lead-

time should be given topmost priority in Bangladesh's policies.

As marketing of apparels undergoes significant changes to take advantage of modern

business methods, a closer link is necessary between buyers and producers, bypassing the

intermediation role traditionally performed by buying houses. This close interface is

likely to create its own demands in terms of production flexibility, product and process

modification and diversification, quality assurance and control, and compliance with

various standards including social standards such as SA-8000, quality standards such as

ISO-9000, and environmental standards such as ISO-14000. More attention will need to

be given to workers' benefits and rights as trade union (TU) rights and decent work

related demands are required to be addressed at the firm level. Already the USA has set a

time limit for allowing TU rights in Bangladesh's Export-Processing Zones (EPZs) for

the purpose of GSP eligibility. All these developments will have cost implications. Only

productivity gains and the ability to move up the value chain will enable firms to remain

competitive in the global market and face cost escalation.

Global Initiatives

Bangladesh should also continue to pursue and promote the demand of the LDCs for

zero-tariff access for goods of their interest, particularly apparels. A major reason behind

Bangladesh's robust export performance in the EU has been the zero-tariff access

accorded under the EU-GSP Scheme. In recent times, zero-tariff access for apparels

accorded to Bangladesh in 2002 under the revised GSP Scheme of Canada has

contributed to Bangladesh's significant growth in export to this market. Export to Canada

has gone up from US$ 98.0 million in FY2002 to US$ 256.4 million in FY2004. Zero-

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tariff access to U.S. market, where tariffs on various apparels items exported by

Bangladesh average about 15 per cent could potentially give a tremendous boost to

Bangladesh's apparels export. It is of interest to note here that import duties on

Bangladesh's apparels in USA in 2003 stood at about $306 million, equivalent to about

four times the net disbursed aid received from the USA in recent years. A study carried

out by CPD shows that zero-tariff access to U.S. market will lead to an increase of

Bangladesh's export to USA by 50 per cent (or about a billion dollar). In recent times,

zero-tariff market access facility provided by Canada in 2002 has also helped Bangladesh

to increase her export from US$ 97.91 million to $256.4 million between FY2002 and

FY2004.Bangladesh should also explore opportunities for more South-South trade in

apparels, particularly in view of the ongoing regional trade negotiations with participation

of Bangladesh such as SAFTA and BIMSTEC. Bangladesh should be careful in ensuring

that apparels do not figure in the negative list of partner countries. More favorable

treatment under the Generalized System of Trade Preferences (GSTPs), which is an

agreement on tariff reduction and tariff liberalization among developing countries) should

also be explored, particularly in the context of receiving more favorable treatment for

export of apparels to India and China. The argument for receiving zero-tariff access for

Bangladesh's apparels is also reinforced by the fact that all African and Caribbean LDCs

are already receiving zero-tariff under the US Trade and Development Act (2000) and the

Caribbean Basin Initiative. Recently a proposal has been floated in the U.S. Congress and

Senate to provide zero-tariff access to 15 LDCs including Bangladesh under the Trade

Relief Assistance for Developing Economies (TRADE) initiative. Bangladesh will need

to keep a keen eye on this proposal, and vigorously pursue her interests in this context.

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7. FOREIGN DEMAND CONDITION7. FOREIGN DEMAND CONDITION

The growth pattern of RMG exports can be categorized into two distinct phases. During

the initial phase it was the woven category, which contributed the most. Second phase is

The Growth Pattern of Woven and Knitwear Categories. Bangladesh was the sixth-largest

exporter of apparel in the world after China, the EU, Hong Kong, Turkey, and India in

2006. That year, Bangladesh's share in world apparel exports was 2.8%. Let see the

Bangladesh exports earning position of ready made garments in US through a table.

The US was the largest single market with US$3.23 billion in exports, a 30% share in

2007. Today, the US remains the largest market for Bangladesh's woven garments taking

US$2.42 billion, a 47% share of Bangladesh's total woven exports. The European Union

remains the largest regional destination-Bangladesh exported US$5.36 billion in apparel;

50% of their total apparel exports. The EU took a 61% share of Bangladeshi knitwear

with US$3.36 billion exports.

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The United States and European Union generate more than 90 per cent of the total RMG

export earnings of Bangladesh (BGMEA and the Export Promotion Bureau websites; and

Quddus and Rashid, 2000). The shares of other importers, such as Australia, Canada,

China, Japan and the Russian Federation as well as countries in the Middle East, in the

total RMG export earnings of Bangladesh are minimal. The country has achieved some

product diversification in both the United States and the European Union. Recently, the

country has achieved some level of product upgrading in the European Union, but not to

a significant extent in the United States. Though Bangladesh is less competitive

compared with China or India in the United States but it is somewhat competitive in the

European Union.

Foreign Investment Procedure

31

China

Goldtex Garments

Ltd,

Due to High

Labor Cost in China

Investing $9.63

Million

Garments Manufacturing

Industry

For Low

Labor cost

Bangladesh

Dhaka Export Processing

Zone (EPZ)

Employment

Opportunity

2,767 Local and 23

Foreign Nationals

Jackets

Shirts Pants

etc.

Page 32: 52648740 RMG Industry of Bangladesh Ready Made Garments Industry

Moreover, foreign demand condition for Bangladesh ready made garments is being kept

in a good position. The RMG sector is expected to grow despite the global financial crisis

of 2009. As China is finding it challenging to make textile and foot wear items at cheap

price, due to rising labor costs, many foreign investors, are coming to Bangladesh to take

advantage of the low labor cost.

8. LOCATION OF THE MARKET8. LOCATION OF THE MARKET

Currently, there are more than 4,000 RMG firms in Bangladesh. More than 95 percent of

those firms are locally owned with the exception of a few foreign firms located in export

processing zones. Bangladesh RMG firms vary in size. The RMG firms are located

mainly in three main cities: the capital city Dhaka, the port city Chittagong and the

industrial city Narayangonj.

The following table concentrates on location and provides an insightful idea on the

locations of BD RMG sector----

DHAKA

CITY

Number Knit Woven Sweater total

Row% 14 38 8 60

Col% 23.3 63.3 13.3 100

Near Dhaka

City

Number 44 13 16 73

Row% 60.3 17.8 21.9 100

Col% 61.1 15.3 48.5 38.4

DEPZ Number 5 12 2 19

Row% 26.3 63.2 10.5 100

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Col% 6.9 14.1 6.1 10

Chittagong Number 6 13 5 24

Row% 25 54.2 20.8 100

Col% 8.3 15.3 15.2 12.6

CEPZ Number 3 9 2 14

Row% 21.4 64.3 14.3 100

Col% 4.2 10.6 6.1 7.4

Total Number 72 85 33 190

Row% 37.9 44.7 17.4 100

Col% 100 100 100 100

9. MARKET ACCESS ISSUES9. MARKET ACCESS ISSUES

Bangladesh’s apparels could have enjoyed a significant advantage over the Chinese

exports had there been preferential market access for her products in the US market. As is

known, the US GSP scheme for the LDCs does not include apparels. Moreover,

regrettably, the Hong Kong Ministerial Decision of the WTO on the duty-free, quota-free

market access for the LDCs allows Bangladesh and other LDCs to have preferential

(zero-tariff) access only for 97 per cent of their product. In all likelihood, the USA will

take advantage of this flexibility to include all (or almost all) apparels items in the 3 per

cent exclusion list. Bangladesh’s strategy in view of this should be to negotiate with the

US in a manner that allows exclusion of at least some of the apparels items of her major

interest from the ‘3 per cent exclusion list’ of the US and to gradually work towards an

all embracing DF-QF decision within the ambit of the WTO. Given that, many of the

apparels items of Bangladesh face tariff peaks in the US such DF-QF market access will

provide her with considerable competitive edge in respect of China. Consequently,

Bangladesh should actively pursue in the WTO the demand for DF-QF market access for

all products from all LDCs. In this regard Bangladesh should also actively lobby for a

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speedy consideration by the US Senate of the TRADE Bill which was placed before the

US Congress in 2005 to provide preferential market access to a number of LDCs and

developing countries including Bangladesh.

As a matter of fact, with the ending of the tenure of the 109th Congress in December,

2006 validity of the TRADE Bill 2005 has lapsed. The bill will now have to be

reintroduced in the newly elected 110th Congress. It needs to be kept in mind that as far

as the apparels market is concerned the global pie is likely to substantially increase in the

near future.

Consequently, it will not be a zero-sum game for exporters to the US market – there will

be space for many players. Rising costs and a natural desire for major buyers have led to

a situation where major international apparels buyers are now pursuing a China plus One

strategy. It should be Bangladesh’s own strategy to ensure that as far as the US market is

concerned it is Bangladesh and not Vietnam or Cambodia which come in to fill in this

gap.

Some Important Issues Regarding RMG

RMG (BD)

Child Labor Issue &

Solution

1993-1995

Quota

Restriction

1985

Boom

Days

1982-1985Withdrawal of Canadian

Quota Restriction (2003)

Significant Development in

Knitwear Sector (1990)

Early Period of Growth

1977-1980Phase-Out of Export-

Quota System (2005)

34

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10. MAJOR EXPORTERS IN THE WORLD10. MAJOR EXPORTERS IN THE WORLD

MARKETMARKET

Bangladesh exports its RMG products mainly to the United States of America and the

European Union. Besides, Canada, Japan, Australia, New Zealand; Russia etc. also are

other garments importing countries. At present about 20 countries of the world are

importers of our garments. Its market is being expanded in the Middle East, Russia,

Japan, Australia and many other countries.

The industry was successful in exploring the opportunities in markets away from EU and

US. In FY06, a successful turnaround was observed in exports to third countries, which

having a negative growth in FY05 rose three-fold in FY06, which helped to record 23.1

percent overall export growth in the RMG sector. It is anticipated that the trend of market

diversification will continue and this will help to maintain the growth momentum of

export earnings. At the same time a recent WTO review points out that Bangladesh has

not been able to exploit fully the duty free access to EU that it enjoys.

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

2001-

2002

2002-

2003

2003-

2004

2004-

2005

2005-

2006

Export share to USA

Export share to EU

Combined share to USA &

EUOthers share to Export

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Chart: Region-wise Share of RMG Export

While this is pointed out to be due to stringent rules of origin (ROO) criteria, the relative

stagnation in exports to EU requires further analysis.

11. STREANGTHS OF THE PRESENT EXPORTERS11. STREANGTHS OF THE PRESENT EXPORTERS

□ Adequate supply of labor force of both sexes, attributed with less attitudes

problem (less absenteeism and, aptitude for learning, and loyal) and high morale.

□ Cheaper labor cost.

□ Low cost of captive power generation using gas as fuel.

□ GSP facility up to 2015

□ Easily accessible infrastructure like sea road, railroad, river and air

communication

□ FDI is legally permitted and incentives are provided to them.

□ Moderately open Economy, particularly in the Export Promotion Zones

□ Looking forward to Duty Free Excess to US, talks are on, and appear to be on

hopeful track

□ Investment assured under Foreign Private Investment (Promotion and Protection)

Act, 1980 which secures all foreign investments in Bangladesh

□ Low Bank interest for financing exports

□ Growth prospects of textile industry on the basis of increasing demand.

□ Solid, dyed, prints and Yarn Dyed specialization.

□ Local spinning industry is offering new and innovative yarn all the time.

□ The new generation of professionals in the industry is well educated and highly

skilled, ability to interpret easily buyers’ technical requirements and is extremely

conscious about quality and timely delivery.

□ Government provides incentives to garment factories using local yarn and fabrics.

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□ Bangladesh continues to enjoy duty free access to EU and Canada, and

negotiations are ongoing for a similar access to the USA.

□ State of the art, vertically integrated factories, producing yarn to quality garments.

Most of the vertical units have their own placement printing and embroidery

units, which offer shorter lead times and the best quality.

Monthly Growth of RMG Exports in BD

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12. POSSIBILITY OF MATCHING STANDARD AND12. POSSIBILITY OF MATCHING STANDARD AND

PRICE IN INTERNATIONAL MARKET PRICE IN INTERNATIONAL MARKET

Here we will discuss about the international competitiveness of Bangladesh RMG sectors

by identifying the way they maintains the standard and price of the exported product.

Standard Matching in the International Market:

The new generation of professionals in the industry is well educated and highly skilled,

ability to interpret easily buyers’ technical requirements and is extremely conscious about

quality and timely delivery.

Textile sector is considered as Thrust Sector by the BD Government and so Govt. is

giving special incentives to entrepreneurs. In turn, it has augmented the overall increase

of production capacity and diversification of product mix in RMG sector. Moreover,

competitive wage rate together with easily trainable workforce, entrepreneurial skill,

expanding supply side capacity, and government policy support is helping BD garment

industries to translate the comparative advantages into competitive advantages.

Bangladesh enjoys duty free access to EU, Canada, Japan, Argentina, Mexico and Brazil,

if the fabric and the garment are produced in the country. Under this facility, almost all

knitwear and most of the woven wear items are exported to these countries duty free. It

indicates a big possibility for Bangladesh RMG sectors to produce more to export more

with same or more quality to abroad. Diversified product mix with a standard quality is

welcoming in the international market. Bangladesh garment industries are capable to

offer all kinds of washes & finishes to the product that maintains a good quality. They are

also equipped to offer embellishments, including printing, hand & machine embroidery

and rhinestones. The product-mix of garment products exported from Bangladesh to the

European Union has changed significantly during the period 1996-2005. The share of

shirts in total garment exports from Bangladesh to the European Union has decreased,

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whereas the shares for overcoats, jackets, sweaters, suits and some other garment

products have increased in recent years. These changes demonstrate that Bangladesh is

achieving some level of product diversification and continuously maintaining a good

level of standard in exporting garment products to the European Union. In addition, a

gender analysis indicates that Bangladesh has achieved some upgrading of its products

recently in terms of exporting garment products to the European Union. Garments for

females are treated as upgraded products compared with garments for males, since they

add more value on average. The earnings of Bangladesh from the export of garments for

females to the European Union have increased during the period 1996-2005.

Countries diversify by increasing the number of trade partners they have (breadth), and/or

by exporting new products to old markets (depth). While deepening relationships with

existing markets is key for export growth, geographical diversification is found to be of

great significance for low income countries such as Bangladesh

Price Matching in International Market :

Unhealthy competition over repeated price cut by a section of Bangladeshi garment

exporters has intensified in the recent months that may cost a huge price loss to the

country’s prime export earning sector, industry people and experts fear. They say the

growth of Bangladesh textile and apparel industries will be hindered if the price cut

competition continues.

Price Cutting Example in BD

BD Exporters

Offer price @

$ 6

Production Cost

@ $ 9

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Emdad, who started his career in the country’s pioneer garment exporting company, told

New Age that a section of short-sighted entrepreneurs had always been engaged in price

war and forced others to follow them. The top executive of the Babylon provides New

Age with the latest comparison on the prices of T-shirts that European Union had

imported from different countries, including Bangladesh. Citing European Commission

data, he said in 2008, Bangladeshi exporters had shipped highest volumes of T-shirts to

European market. But the unit price remained much lower than the exporters of others

countries. A made-in-Bangladesh T-shirt was shipped just for 1.22 Euro which was 37

per cent less than the global average price. Exports price of a Turkish T-shirt was 3.35

Euro, Chinese 2.03 Euro, Moroccan 1.56 Euro while an Indian T-shirt was shipped at

2.10 Euro. Echoing Emad, a Bangladeshi merchandiser working with a Dhaka sourcing

office of a world leading European retailer says as importers easily get discount on very

next Bangladeshi supplier they always search for the cheapest one. ‘If a quotation on per

dozen of basic T-shirt at $12 from a local knitter is negotiated with four suppliers, it can

easily be settled at $9,’ said the executive seeking anonymity. Rafiqul Islam, the

consultant in Dhaka for a Washington-based labor right group, points out that availing the

world cheapest wages, cheaper gas and electricity and no cost for managing waste, local

exporters produce cheapest garments.‘Exploiting their workers local exporters continue

making their price offers cheaper while importers instigate them as they find Bangladesh

a fertile ground for such unhealthy competition,’ he said.

The Bangladesh Knitwear Manufacturers and Exporters Association president, Fazlul

Hoque, traced that unhealthy competition on price cut had been enhanced much in

ongoing recession period. ‘With flow of orders squeezes the suppliers are in race to get

the orders by an affordable loss while some buyers are taking the chances and making the

suppliers victims,’ said Hoque. He also said that if the Export Promotion Bureau

monitored the unit prices of exports, the BKMEA would support their initiatives. ‘At

least, for discouraging them psychologically, the EPB can check unit prices that don’t

meet even the basic costs of production.’ The executive director of the Centre for Policy

Dialogue, Professor Mustafizur Rahman, says export price war in Bangladesh is a very

critical economic behaviour, which is difficult to rule. ‘Buyers usually take this

opportunity when competition on price cut goes on in a sourcing market like Bangladesh

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that has several thousands of suppliers,’ he says. Mustafiz, however, suggested that the

government could strictly monitor the labour right and environment compliances and

should ensure that a non-complaint exporter cannot compete with a compliant exporter.

China and some other competitors of Bangladesh have implemented sharp price-cutting

policies in exporting garment products over the last few years, but Bangladesh has failed

to respond effectively to such policies. China was able to drop the export price of 29

garment categories by 46 per cent on average in the United States within a year, from

$6.23 per sq meter in December 2001 to $3.37 per sq meter in December 2002.

Bangladesh needs to respond to such price-cutting policies of its rivals in order to remain

competitive in the quota-free global market.

13. MODE OF TRANSPORTATION13. MODE OF TRANSPORTATION

The Dhaka-Chittagong road remains the main transportation link connecting the

production units, mostly situated in and around Dhaka and the port in Chittagong, where

the raw material and the finished products are shipped in and out. Despite increased

dependence on air transportation, trucks remain the main vehicles for transporting raw

materials and finished products for Bangladesh garment exports. The industry responded

by calling upon the Bangladesh navy to help with trawlers and renting a plane from Thai

Air that was used to directly fly garment consignments from the Dhaka airport to the

Chittagong airport several times a day.

According to a study by a multilateral capital donor, the Bangladesh economy can

increase its economic output by one per cent and foreign trade by 20 per cent a year by

making transportation on the Dhaka-Chittagong corridor more efficient.

The waterways could be a relatively cheaper mode of cargo transportation for

Bangladesh’s readymade garments (RMG) industry. Transportation using roads costs

more time and money. Different users should have the option of using the mode suitable

for them. The options would be available only when all the modes are efficiently run.

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14. PACKAGING14. PACKAGING

The total printing and packaging sector is one of the largest employers in Bangladesh like

the RMG sector, where about 2 million people are employed and 80% are women. The

packing section cannot start working until all the clothes are ready for packaging;

because the clothes are packed according to the buyers' specified ratio.

RMG industries follow some Packaging Instructions for each product, pack size and type

to make the product effective and attractable to the customer. Protection for the product

it selves during transport and its users during use is ensured by the packaging. At the

same time some important issues are also mandatory with every product to be provided

during export. Like-

Batch Records( Written on the Carton)

Symbols that communicate care procedures may be used in addition to words, but the

Company

logo

Batch Manufacturing

Record

Page No. : 1 of 40

Product Product EffectiveBatch No.: Batch size Batch size

Manufacturing Expiry date: Shelf life:

Prepared by: Verified by: Approved by:

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words must fulfill the requirement of the care label rule. Some instructions are absolutely

important for a user to use and to take care of product. Foreign customers are very

conscious about rules and manual indication of a product. So to make the product in

export quality, RMG uses smart instructions in packaging. For 100% cotton Jeans,

instructions are like below-

15. PREFERENTIAL TREARMENT IN FOREIGN15. PREFERENTIAL TREARMENT IN FOREIGN

MARKETMARKET

Both external and internal factors contributed to the phenomenal growth of RMG sector.

One external factor was the application of the GATT-approved Multifibre Arrangement

(MFA) which accelerated international relocation of garment production. Under MFA,

large importers of RMG like USA and Canada imposed quota restrictions, which limited

export of apparels from countries like Hong Kong, South Korea, Singapore, Taiwan,

Thailand, Malaysia, Indonesia, Sri Lanka and India to USA and Canada. On the other

hand, application of MFA worked as a blessing for Bangladesh. As a least developed

country, Bangladesh received preferential treatment from the USA and European Union

(EU). Initially Bangladesh was granted quota-free status. To maintain competitive edge

in the world markets, the traditionally large suppliers/producers of apparels followed a

strategy of relocating RMG factories in countries, which were free from quota restrictions

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and at the same time had enough trainable cheap labour. They found Bangladesh as a

promising country. So RMG industry grew in Bangladesh.

Some countries had internal problems, for example, Sri Lanka; and some other countries

of Southeast Asia experienced rapid increase in labour cost. Buyers looked for alternative

sources. Bangladesh was an ideal one as it had both cheap labour and large export quotas.

The EU continued to grant Bangladesh quota-free status and GSP (Generalized System of

Preferences) privileges. In addition, USA and Canada allocated substantially large quotas

to Bangladesh. These privileges guaranteed Bangladesh assured markets for its garments

in USA, Canada and EU. The domestic factor that contributed to the growth of RMG

industry was the comparative advantage Bangladesh enjoyed in garment production

because of low labour cost and availability of almost unlimited number of trainable cheap

labour.

16. IPLC ISSUES16. IPLC ISSUES

There are some developed countries like German; EU etc. who divert their technology to

Bangladesh to produce ready-made garments at a lower cost. Actually, advanced

garment’s machineries are invented in the industrial country like USA but their labor cost

is very high due to high standard of living. So it’s better for USA to shift the production

task to developing country like Bangladseh. After production, USA may import it or

repurchase the ready made garments from BD.

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17. VALUE ADDITION17. VALUE ADDITION

Future Opportunities for RMG Field:

♦ Bangladesh has now a scope to go for more fashion oriented products deserving

high price in the global market.

♦ With the help of further increase of productivity & quality and design support,

Bangladesh can minimize cost and maximize profit and export value.

♦ Bangladesh, as a proven experienced RMG & Textile manufacturer, can expand

share in the existing market (USA, EU, Australia, Canada, etc.) and can also

explore opportunity in Japan & CIS countries.

♦ In the long run, Bangladesh has a scope to target huge populated country like

China and India- where demand as well as cost of manufacturing will be wider.

♦ EU is willing to establish industry in a big way as an option to china particularly

for knits, including sweaters

♦ If skilled technicians are available to instruct, prearranged garment is an option

because labor and energy cost are inexpensive.

Investment Opportunities in Bangladesh Textile:

RMG and textile sectors have enormous investment opportunities. Government provides

highly favorable policy framework for investment in these sectors. Investors have the

following choices:

• Establishment of new textile / RMG mill in the private sector.

• Joint ventures with the existing textile / RMG mill.

• Acquisition of public sector textile mills that are being privatized.

• Indirect investment through financial services and / or leasing.

Bangladesh - the country of world famous muslin fabric has now emerged as an apparel

giant in the world textile and apparel market. The RMG sector contributes around 75

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percent to the total export earnings. In 2007 it earned $9.35 billion. This sector also

contributes around 13 percent to the GDP, which was only around 3 percent in 1991. Of

the estimated 2 million people employed in this sector, about 70 percent of them are

women from rural areas. The RMG sector is expected to grow despite the global financial

crisis of 2009, many foreign investors, are coming to Bangladesh to take advantage of the

low labour cost, product quality and compliance. USA is the largest importer of

Bangladeshi RMG products, followed by Germany, U.K, France and other E.U countries.

The country exports its apparel products worth about 9.0 billion US$ per year to the

USA, EU, Canada and most of the Scandinavian and Middle Eastern countries. At

present the country is the 6th largest apparel supplier to the USA and EU countries. Most

of the high street retailers, lifestyle and fashion shops like Asda, Debenhams, Giorgio

Armani, H&M,M&S, Mother care, Next, Peacock, Primark, Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Zara are

sourcing from Bangladesh.

The foreign trade of readymade garments from BD has shown rapid rates of growth over

the past ten years now making BD the world's twelfth largest exporter of garments and it

is responsible for about 76% of Bangladesh's foreign exchange earnings.

Export Value of RMG

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18. NEW TRADE THEORY ISSUES18. NEW TRADE THEORY ISSUES

Bangladesh and India has signed a memorandum of understanding (MoU) on 16th of

September on procedural arrangements for duty-free entry of eight million pieces of

Bangladeshi apparels into India annually. The country's garment entrepreneurs are

eagerly looking for alternative markets to reduce their dependency on a few markets.

Though international financial institutions such as the World Bank and IMF have been

consistently pursuing the claim that trade liberalisation in BD is conducive to achieving

high economic growth and alleviating poverty, all economists in the country do not

endorse it. Trade liberalisation has been one of the major policy reforms in BD. It has

been implemented as part of the overall economic reform programme, namely the

structural adjustment programme (SAP) which was initiated in 1987 and formed the

component of the ‘structural adjustment facility’ (SAF) and ‘enhanced structural

adjustment facility’ (ESAF) of the IMF and World Bank. This adjustment programme put

forward a wide range of policy reforms including trade policy, industrial policy,

monetary policy, fiscal policy and exchange rate policy, privatisation of state-owned

enterprises and promotion of foreign direct investment.

19. OTHER IMMPORTANT ISSUES FOR ‘RMG’19. OTHER IMMPORTANT ISSUES FOR ‘RMG’

SECTORSECTOR

Bangladesh RMG sector are not on an absolute good position. It is facing some weak

points and threats like-

1. Bangladesh produces mostly basic products- which are low cost items; the share

of fashion products i.e., high value added product is very low.

2. Bangladesh does not produce the basic raw materials (only a negligible quantity

of cotton but no manufactured fiber) and as such has to depend totally on sensitive

global market.

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3. Because of inadequate backward linkage, lead-time happens to be long, nearly 3

months.

4. Public power supply is erratic.

5. Bank interest rate is still high enough, particularly of private sector bank, for

investment of export oriented high value project.

6. HRD facility, productivity and quality support, testing and accreditation support,

design support and compliances are yet to be enhanced.

7. Cost of doing business is high because of under table money

8. Lack of marketing tactics

9. Absence of easily on-hand middle management

10. A small number of manufacturing methods

11. Lack of training organizations for industrial workers, supervisors and managers.

12. Fewer process units for textiles and garments

13. Sluggish backward or forward blending procedure

14. Incompetent ports, entry/exit complicated and loading/unloading takes much time

15. Unless new strong market is explored in home or abroad, any non-cooperation

from USA & EU may jeopardize the whole Bangladesh RMG export business and

consequently the textile manufacturing.

16. Sudden price hike of cotton and yarn in the global market may push Bangladesh

to a very awkward situation to devastate the business.

17. The type of labor and political anarchies of the recent days if prevails in the

future, Bangladesh may lose the business in the way Sri Lanka has lost.

Bangladesh has a need for foreign help to meet the growing demand of ready made

garments in significantly. Therefore, The country’s apparel exporters — both woven and

knitwear — have demanded a ban on Foreign Direct Investment (FDI) in ready-made

garment (RMG) sector outside the Export Processing Zones (EPZ).The government

withdrew the ban in 2006 to woo FDI in RMG sector. Bangladesh Garment

Manufacturers and Exporters’ Association (BGMEA) and Bangladesh Knitwear

Exporters’ Association (BKMEA) made the demand to the government recently.

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The Ministry of Commerce (MoC) feels the demand of apparel exporters is logical to a

great extent, while the Board of Investment (BOI) seems interested to go by the existing

rule that has no restriction on FDI in RMG sector. While it is assume that the

competitiveness of local garments would be hit hard if the foreign investors with their

global expertise and reputation invested in local RMG sector beyond the EPZs. Many

small and medium size garment factories will face closure as they would fail to compete

with foreign investors. Therefore some opposition pointed out against the decision of

BOI to allow FDI. But it is also considerable that to meet the growing demand of rmg

products in home and abroad, the necessity of FDI is more significant

The two-way trade between the countries might reach $2 billion in a couple of years

from $1.4 billion now, if Bangladesh diversifies its products. Bangladesh has enormous

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potential to attract Canadian investments, particularly in the readymade garment sector,

after a massive rise in production costs in China. Also, the situation has created

opportunities for Bangladesh, to fully utilise the duty-free and quota-free market access

to Canada. Many Canadian firms, which were outsourcing garments from China now

moving to markets like Bangladesh for relatively cheaper price. For an example,

Canadian T-shirt giant Gildan Activewear has invested in Bangladesh. The firm has

bought a local garment company by $15 million last year.

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20. CONCLUTION AND RECOMMENDATION20. CONCLUTION AND RECOMMENDATION

Bangladesh economy at present is more globally integrated than at any time in the past.

The MFA phase-out will lead to more efficient global realignments of the textile and

clothing industry. The phase out was expected to have negative impact on the economy

of Bangladesh. Recent data reveals that Bangladesh absorbed the shock successfully and

indeed RMG exports grew significantly both in FY05 and (especially) in FY06.

Due to a number of steps taken by the industry, Bangladesh still remains competitive in

RMG exports even in this post phase-out period. Cheap labor is no longer seen to be a

mainstay of comparative advantage. The need for establishing strong backward linkage

was appropriately realized and accordingly necessary steps were taken by all quarters of

the RMG industry, which has been reflected in the decreased pattern of back-to-back

import supported by increased domestic value addition. However further progress is in

order, and a strong public sector role is necessary to mediate the establishment of textile

mills with global standards. An appropriate policy regime is needed to encourage the

importation of technology, intermediate and raw materials, so that the local industries get

a chance to reduce its average cost to international level and narrow the lead time.

Presently, Bangladesh’s apparel sector operates mainly at the lower-end segment of the

international market. Although knitwear products achieved tremendous growth but these

are low-value products with small profit margins. Bangladesh can enhance its value

addition capacity substantially through diversification of apparel products and by moving

into more value-added, high-priced, high-fashion products. Woven category can be more

attractive via large capital investment. If cost effective investment can increase in the

spinning and weaving sub-sectors, as it has been in the past few years, Bangladesh has

the possibility of building a competitive export-oriented RMG sector with strong

backward linkages in the textiles sector. Training is always considered as an effective

instrument for upgrading skills and raising efficiency of human resource, which

eventually ensures increased productivity. Some initiatives have been taken by the

entrepreneurs of the relevant sector but much more needs to be done. Necessary steps

should be taken both by the public and the private sectors, and development partners to

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establish appropriate fashion and technology institutes. Improvement in working

conditions and organizational environment can also result in increased productivity,

which eventually renders these enterprises more competitive. To remain competitive in

the post-MFA phase, Bangladesh needs to remove all the structural impediments in the

transportation facilities, telecommunication network, and power supply, management of

seaport, utility services and in the law and order situation. The government and the RMG

sector would have to jointly work together to maintain competitiveness in the global

RMG market. Given the remarkable entrepreneurial initiatives and the dedication of its

workforce, Bangladesh can look forward to advancing its share of the global RMG

market. In addition to the fact that the industry is vulnerable because it is highly

dependent on the imported raw materials, the infrastructure in the country is deplorably

underdeveloped. Problems in power supply, transportation and communication create

serious bottlenecks. Inadequate port facilities result in frequent port congestion, which

delays shipment. All these increase the lead-time to process an order, i.e. the time from

the date of receiving an order to the date of shipment.

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REFFERENCES

●● International Business (Environments and Operations) –by Daniels,

Radebaugh & Sullivan

Websites:

1. http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?hl=en&q=cache:Mo5KXNNybX0J:http://www.gtz-progress.org/2008/files/Trade_November2009_diversifying%20RMG%20export%20market.pdf+leveling+on+clothes+RMG+sector+of+bangladesh&ct=clnk

2. http://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:He8T87U8nrAJ:www.eudelbangladesh.org/en/documents/investorguide/textilessector.pdf+what+type+of+transportation+is+used+by+readtmade+garment+sector+of+bangladesh&hl=en&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESiQWv8WyH8QF061cTmEiFpvJIw340Mubhi58M_45bgWKoiARINmbffjaseEwolwdSjLLE0U30zqZ9PIrmiKcm_NIL0c7qV1rvg2b-Xz-yJa7pe9EQq0Myw92k9slz2MV5MSI9mh&sig=AHIEtbTpBIBEWL0w2beSWtJAQRvT4rSEcw

3. http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:H0VZCMNc5AkJ:www.bangladeshbank.org/research/policynote/pn0702.pdf+Bangladeshi+Readymade+garment+industry&hl=en

4. http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:kIjc2kCXNMMJ:www.cherryfieldsesby.com/docs/pdf/Bangladesh.pdf+Bangladeshi+Readymade+garment+industry+STREANGTH+OF+THE+EXPORTES&hl=en

5. http://www.bdsdf.org/forum/index.php?showtopic=1317

6. http://www.bd-experts.com/ShowArticle.aspx?ID=81&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1

7. http://www.apparel.com.bd/?cat=29

8. training.itcilo.it/decentwork/.../S6%20Employers%20RMG.pdf

9. www.banglapedia.org/httpdocs/HT/G_0041.HTM

10. www.unescap.org/tid/publication/aptir2456_haider.pdf

11. www.gafinet.org/.../Textiles%20value%20proposition-2010.p

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READY MADE GARMENT SECTOR IN BANGLADESH

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