, .; •. ~ ,. I

.\ ',:,15TMN SUL/9S-f -1f'5t/

is a Public ~nformation Office Projectof the

U.S.S. DES MOINES (CA-134)

s. P. NONCURECommanding Officer

E. H. WINSLOt'JExecutive Officer

}1:. C. Miller, Ensign, USN, Public InfonnationOfficer

StaffR•.J. 11cIlhaligy,SNR.D. Gallo

Photo Lab.E.E. JonesB.J. ThomasB.L. BrewsterD. lv1a.juta

Print ShopG. WilsonP. GalfordJ. PruittR. MOkrzycki

ISTANBUL3 TUru~

Historical - Geographical

Byzantilun, Constantinople$ and now Istanbul~ Bythese names, one of the most famous cities of the NearEast has been called, each significant in its own way,each representative of a civilization unique during itsprogress through the centuries.

Istanbul is the Turk's dream and joy. It is Turkey'slargest city, located on one of the vlPrld'sbeautiful _natural city siteso For more than 20 years its populationhas been at least one million. It is truly cosmopolitanthe center ?f the country's conrrnercialand cultural life;and the ObV10US crossroads of civilizationo All Americanshave heard of the city, and thousands have visited it.

The city lies at the apex of Europe and Asia, the twocontinents within sight of each other across the narrowBosphorus. An ancient city, it was first picked up in ourhistory books as Byzantium, a colony of the ancient Greekfree city of Negarao This was in the seventh century B.C.A thousand years later, in 328 A.D~, Constantine the G~eatmoved the seat of the Roman Empire to the city, which hemodestly renamed Constantinople, "The City of ConstantinoplellFor more than eleven centuries from this "second founding"

by Constantine until its capture by the Ottoman Turks underMohammed II, the Conqueror, in 1453, Constantinople was themost important city in the world. Up until this time itremained the undisputed center of Greek culture and scholar­ship, which carried the lamp of civilization during the DarkAges. Its capture by the Turks caused the scholars to seekasylum in European cities, taking with them Greek culture~nd learning. This entrance of Greek learning into Europe­found fertile ground and was a strong inpetus to the Renais­sance movement.

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In 1922 the Sultan was deposed and in thenext year, Hustafa Kemau, •.rho chose the nameAtaturk (Father of the Turks), was elected pres­ident of the Turkish Republic. With zeal andforce he began to Westernize Turkey, abolishingancient modes of dress and forbidding the wear­ing of the well known fez. vvomen, along withtheir newly given rights, Vl8re encouraged to dis­card the veil; they were only t.oo eager to com­ply. Ataturk also decided that all 'furks shouldhave last names, something new in that country ••Harems and polygamy •.[ere abolished, educationwas nationalized, vlestern Law replaced MoslemCodes; the Gregorian Calendar, the 24 hour day,the Western Sunday, and Latin letters replacedthe old Arabic script - all these things com­bined to bring about the transfonnation'of thenew Republio" The capital was shifted to Ankara,but Istanbul remained the principal oity.

Old Istanbul rises on a rounded hill at thetip of Europe, bounded on the north by the famousGolden Horn, an offshoot of the Bosphorus,; on theeast by the Bosphorus itsel.f~ and ·onthe west bythe remainder of European TUrkey, relativelysmall compared with Asian TUrkey. On the otherside of the Golden Horn, crossed by the floatingGalata· Bridge and the newer Ataturk Bridge, isthe merchant's section called (strangely enough)Galata; this in turn, leads to the modern areasof the smart shops, night clubs, restaurants andhotels. Greater Istanbul stretches along theBosphorus on both the European and the Asiaticsides.

POINTS OF INTEHEST- Upon our approach to Istanbul,you will notice at one the many minarets of themosques that have become almost the trademark ofIurkey, The building of splendid mosques andimperial palaces gave the ancient metropolis a diff­erent look and a new skyline, whi.ch has become etchedon the minds of travelers almost as clearly as theskyline of New Yorko Aubrey de Vere once vrrot,e,liTheview of Constantinople from the sea is the mostsplendid of all the pageant, presented to the -humaneye by metropolitan cities of the world,,11

Palaces and gardens, especially the former$ insome cases with sumptuous harems, are lIofthe ess­ence" of any visit to Istanbul, however short,?forthe evidences of "palace lifeff of Ottoman Turkeynever fail to stir the non-Moslem beholder" Thereare four, of amazing character" in Greater Istanbul ••The Topkapu of Old Seraglio is near St" Sophia; theDolma BaGche" directly on the Bosphorus; the Yildizl\:iosk,in a wooded park above that blue ribbon of~'Iater;and the Beylerbey Pa'Iace , on the Asian ai.de,

:.3IGHTSEEING The entire city of Istanbul and itsenvirons are interesting. Local ferry boats providean exceLl.errtand inexpensive method of vievri.ngmostof the areas. Trip to Princes' Islands •.lith lunchat one of the many good r-est.aurant.s, trips up to theBosphorus with lunch at Canli Balik or a trip aroundthe Golden Horn with a stop at Pierre Loti's famouscafe are recorrnnendedfor camera ent.hus iust.s .•.

OTHER POINTS OF INTEREST

Dolma Bahce Sarayi By special arrangementwith consulate (Taesand F+~.) (1300-1700)Daily except Mon. from1000 to 1630

l1useum of St. Sophia

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Bas.il.Lca Cistern Daily except Sun. from1300 to 1700Any hour of the dayHon, Wed and Fri from1000 to 1700

Blue MosqueRestored Mosaics ofKahriye Cami

The Castle of Seven Towers Every day (1000-1700)and the Church of st. Johnof Studion

The Hippodrome (Meydani) Any time

Sarcophagus of Alexanderthe Great (Museum ofAntiquities)

Every day but Monday0930-1200, 1300-1700

The Top Kapi Servilio Museum Every day but Tuesa

(Ottoman Sultans) 1000-1200,1300-1700Tophapi Sarayi Muzisi (1472-1g53)

The Mosque of SuleimanThe Magnificant Any hour of any day

st. Sofia is a wonder of Byzantine architecturedating from the 14th century~ It was built by10,000 workmen supervised by 100 foremen. Ittook five years and eleven months to build. Ina solem service at the inauguration, Justinian,holding a cross in his hand, said "God be praisedwho has esteemed me worthy to complete this work.Solomen, I have surpassed even thee". The domeis acclaimed by all architects as one of the mostremarkable in the world.

The Hosque of Suleiman the ,r.,fagnificantis the mostsplendid, best located, and costliest in the city.According to legend, the columns of the mosquecome from the ancient temple of Diana at Ephesus.

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The Palace of Doma Bahce is located adjacent to theFleet Landing. Sultan Abdulmecit built the palace inIg53 to replace the palaces where the suf.t.anshad

, lived for 400 years~ Rulers of other countriesvisiting Turkey have lived and entertained at thispalace during their stay. It was here that the firstpresident of TurkeYj Ataturk, spent his summersoHere, he also died. A clock in the room where hedied stopped at the moment of his death, 0905, 19November 1939.

The Seraglio occupied by the Turkish Sultans fromJAOO to 19OO, A.,D.,contains a large collectionof Chinese porcelain, a trenendous number of pre­cious stones, a fine collection of all sorts ofweapons in use until the last century, exquisite oldTurkish embroidery, nwnerous paintings of sultans,their wives and other high state Officials, differ­ent types of imperial coaches,huge kitchens andflovrergardens where in the eighteenth century,thousands of tulips were planted, and the sultans'favorite evening sport was to watch tall girlsdressed in white, toss golden balls to one another,while hundreds of tortoises with lighted candles ontheir heads wandered sLowly among the tulips.

The Hippodrome is somewhat like a stadium for horseand chariot races. It was started in the thirdcentury by the Roman Emperor Septum Servius. Itwas completed 127 years by Constantine the Great.Today the original level of the Hippodrome isbelow ground level. '

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TRANSPORTATION

CURRENCY The present rate of exchange is nineTurk LIRA to one U. S. DoLl.ar-,Prices are about:

TC1:;:Ls; 5 lera per ride (in the city)(S...:;E TAXIS BELOWLunch ~ 10 to 40 liraDi.nner-:15 to 40 liraLocs.L bec~~~about 3 liraImported beverages are (~~:tremelyhigh(check first)

streetcars, busses and ferries are free toU. S.N. personnel in uniform. Taxis - Fare ,'1ithinthe city is double the amount read on the meteroInitial reading should be 20 kurus. Taxis maybe hired by the day for 60 lira. Subway-«Thisshort subway runs from Pera (the main street inNew Istanbul ) to the Galata Bridge. Trains­Urban trains may be taken at Sirkeu Stationin Old Istanbul.

TAXIS

A service charv,e of 10 to 15 percent is addedto roostbills" In addition, it is the customto give an extra 5 to 10 percent for good servicee

There are ample taxis in Istanbul. Faresshould be the meter reading plus 10%0 Moregenerally, when meter is not used, the fareshould not be more than five lira per ride,regardless of the number of occupants, for anyreasonable distance with the city limits.\iHEN IN OOUET, CALL A POLICEMAN TO ARBITRATE.

The main business sect.Loninthe city is alongthe Pera (main street), wher-eshops arc generallyreliabJEo In this area, all goods are required"8y 18.1>1 to carry price tags, and no bar'gaarringis done,

In the curio and antique shops, as we.Ll, as inthe Bazaar, goods carry price tags, butbargaining i:3 still expected and recorauended;The old (Covered Bazaar) is a world famoustourist attraction. Occasionally an excel­lent purchase may be made there.

Agree on prices advance•••Avoid disputes •••Report to the Naval Attache the taxi licensenumber (all cabs numbers begin with T 5--)and details of unfair practices as soonas possible •••Refer;all serious disagreements immediatelyto the nearest Shore Patrol or TurkPolice.REJI.:lEHBER:

U.S. CUUJF..NCYIS NOT TO BE usso IN TURKEY UNDERANY CIRCUNSTANCES

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ISTANBUL

-nis raic'r OFCA.MlICA

3 - Kervcrrscrcv Night club4 - Toksim Co sino5 - Monument of the Republic6 - Pork Hotel7· Municipality lnf or rno t.on Office8 - Kanak Hotel9 - Peropoloce Hotel- American Consulate

11 • Galata Tower12 - Volide Mo-:.qve (Yenicami)

1:J:. Spice B020("14 . Governor's Office'(Old Sub~'im-e Porte) 26· M()!oliue of Si..ileyman the Magnificent15· Cistern 27· The Aqueduct of Volens16 - St. Sophia Museum 28 - Fctih Mosque17· Fountain Of Sulton Ah,net18 - Old Seroglio19· Archaeological Museum2? - Suhon Ahmet Mosque (Blue Mosque)21 . Hippodrome22 - The Burnt Column23· The Grand Oriental Borcor24· Bevcnt Mosque

29· Sulton Selim Mosque30· The Orthodox Patriarchate31 - The Church of St. Saviour32· Eyup Mosque and Tomb3') • Pierre Loti's Cafe34· Castle of Seven Tower'35 - Fire Tower36 - Dclmcbchce Palace

TELEPHONE NUMBERS

Hilton Hotel.o ••••••4$3200Park Hotel•••••••o••444630Pera Palas Hotelo•••4448l0Harbor Police.o •••••443452American Hospital•••482266Kahan Bldg (Navy )••485535Chief of Po~ce.~.~.22l700

CANTEEN A Fleet Canteen will be establishedunder USO-YMCA and American Colony sponsorshipat the Unior Francaise Club near the AmericanConsulate. The canteen available to all en­listed fleet peraonne'Lis usually open from1600-2300 each day during the visit.. Foodcoffee, soft drinks, mailing facilities, dancingand entertairunent are availabla. In the pastvisits, professional entertainment was avail­able for an hour show each night.

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OTHEH GENERAL on USEFUL INFOHl'L-'\.TTON

SHOPPINGThe Grand Bazaar of Istanbul is beyond

comparison ~vi.thother L'editerranean and NearEast bazaars, even those of Dannscus andCairo. It is a prodigious labyrinthJ)allunder cover, of a nrultitudeof vlaresfrompure gold, literally millions of dollars worthof it in every form of jevlelry( but alas-nogold may be legally exported from Turkey)~to attat (a perfurne)of roses llildrose-leafliqueurs, to hand-painted ceramicsJl to meer­schaum masterpieces, to Bursa ei.Lksand hand­made embroideries, to rugs in the ·,·.~·)(:t>, .]1 \8;and acres of furniture that must have been .bought in by magic, since there is obviouslyno hun~n means of getting such big stuff throughthe Bazaar" S tortuous alleys. H01'l8Ver,pricesare extraordinarily high and generally Istanbulis not a good place to buy.

EXCEPTIONSMeerschaum pipes, rugs, and silverwareG

Another good shopping area is Taksim Squarethe Times Square of Istanbul. With f'ew exc~pt­ions a bargaining process should be used whenshopping.

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ISTANBUL POST EXCHANGE

The Kahan Building located in the down toVID.area of Istanbul is one of the military buildingin the Istanbul area~

The Kahan Building also has a PX, of fairlygood size, a good snack bar, and a branch ofthe Army Post Office SystemQ. Located. on the top floor of the buildingas a very rn.ce cocktail lounge and bar v,litha wcnde rf'u.L vi.ew of the city and the Bosphorua,

The hours of operation were not avaliableat press time but you wi Ll, fine that mostmilitary facilities heep about the ~ne hours.

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RESTAURANTS

vvnenyou go out to eat, you should stick to thebetter restaurants, since most of them employLL,;lish-speakinghelp. The best meal you can buy,wine and tipping-course dinner will cost about $20000

If you go to a restaurant where there's music, theprices will be about 25% highero

Every country has its own special d.ishes , andTurkey is an enormously interesting country foodwise.You haven't really been to Turkey nntil you!ve hadsis kebab, a djsh well known in America. It is adelicious specialty} being bits of lamb, with onions,tomatoes, and so forth~ all skewered and cooked on arotating grill. Koner kebab is another spitted arraythis one being of thin, ronnd slices of meat. Kebabmeans any small piece of meat, and appears in manyforms on the menu, Dolma means anything stuffed withrice, pinenuts, currantsJ and meat. These dishesare served hotj or sometimes cold with lemon juice,as appetizers. Pilva is rice as it is propared inTurkeY:lbuttered and steamed rather than boiled inwater. Fish is excal.Lerrt in Turkey" especially inIstanbul, Coffee, Turkish style, has little resem­blance to the American variety. It is made frompowdered coffee, which settles as a sediment to thebottom of the small cups in vmich it is servedo

lJl[ithoutsugar (sade) it is soaked in honey or sugarsyrup. Ekmek kadayif is a kind of bread or cake,also soaked in syrup and topped with cream. Turkishdelight, more of a confection than a dessert, is ofcourse, to be had in Istanbulo This fabulous sweet,called lokum in this land of its origin, is no myth.Lobsters and steaks are recommended0 DO NOT EATOYSTERS.•

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'i'he '.,lli,~e and ied d'i.nner Hines are veryu,od. l. popu.La r dry ','TiliteTurkish wi.ne , fromAnatol.iallE':;.~;-'.l)CS,i8 called l\avaklidere. AverY popular liquor is raki,'a clear brandydistilled from grapes or figs and flavored wi.t.hanise seed, Raid is a knock-out drink thatshould not be mixed with any other beverage andshould be taken after having eaten somethingoThe beer is the best in the Hediterranean0

THE RECOMBENDED RESTAUW.;NTS ARE:

Park Hotel Hilton-IstanbulTaksim Casino Abdullah'sPandelli's (lunch only)Spice Bazaar Narin RestaurantKervanserai Casino RejansAtlantic Hotel ExpressPera Palas~Nariros (Buyukdere) and Canli Salik( Sariyer)are two restaurants on the Bosphcrus ofparticular merito

Taksim Pavyon Park HotelPark Hotel Pavyon Londra BarOzgur Turan BarKonak NarinAbdullah Efendi TokatliyanPrices are high, local vodka and gin are about50 cents, others about one dollar.

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ENGLISH .•.TURKISH EQUIVA~...!:IT'.§_

YESNOUNDERSTI ND ME

I DONIT UNDERSTAND

I DON'T KNOWPLEASEGOOD DAYGOOD EVENINGHO~iARE YOUTHANK YOU

I'I'HATIS YOUR NAME

HY NANE ISWHAT'S THISHOIAJ lilUCH\,;J-!ERE IS IT

IMPORTANT SIGNS.

ERKEKLERE MAHSUSKADINLARA NAHSUSAPDESTHANESIGARA ICNEK YASAKTIR

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EVETHAYIR

ANLADINIZ MI

ANUNIYORm-lBIll1IYCRIJH

LUTFENGUN AY·lJ.LNTUN AYDIN

NASILSINIZ?TESEKKUR NEDIR?

ISNINIZ NEDIR

IS!-UN" "DIRB~NE1)].rl?

MCNEREDE

MENVlOMJI:l'i

TOIIE.TNO SMOKING

THE FOlJ.mITNG TOURS vilLL BE AVAILABIE IN _ISTANBUL

(1) Afternoon city tour:Drive over Galata Bridgeacross the Golden Horn, past Valideh Mosque and theSublime Porto Visit Saint Sophia, the Blue Mosque,the Hippodromeo See the Oblisque of Theodosius,the Serpentine Column, and the colLIDmof ConstantineVII. Drive through Beqazit Square past the historicFire T01tTeranf the University of Lst anbu.L, visitthe Grand Bazaar-, Return via the Aqueduct of Valensand Ataturk Blvd. This tour 'Will be conducted onSaturday and Sunday afternoons. PRICE $ 3.00

(2) Afternoon tour up the Bosphorus: Take theferry up the Bosphorus as far as the Black Sea.Enjoy a splendid view of Galata TOI'Ter,Old Seraglio,Ortakoy Mosque, American College for Girls, SweetWaters of Asia, Castle of Mejmet the Conqueror, thelovely summer residences on both the Asiatic andEuropean shores of the Bosphorua, Return over thehills of Istanbul by mot.or-coach, This tour wiLl, beconducted on Monday and Tuasday afternoonso

PRICE $ 3..00

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Tickets are now on sale in the Crew's Lounge, Tourchits approved by the head of department must bepresented when purchasing tour ticketso

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