TI-I EQE'S

NEW .YORK.-(~pecial Correspondence.)-"0, for some desert aisle I" wrote to methe other day a young maiden who is nowpreparing for her church wedding. "I don't

know why I didn't listen to Tom and just sneakoff for the great ceremony. As it is, I simply haveno time for romantic love. How can I when Ikeep wondering all the time if I hadn't better havegotten that model with the draped skirt instead ofthe robe de style I chose?"Another prospective bride of my acquaintance is

even more pungent in her expression. "I can't tellyou how I'm looking forward to my second wed-ding," writes she in the flippant style now so highlyrespected. "After all this big adventure in fussthink of the bliss of slipping into the traveling cos-tume which the widowed bride usually gets awaywith I "Alas and alack, however, for the buoyancy of

this latter outlook I If Captain Molyneux of Parishas anything to say on the subject the widow-brideis not going to be permitted any such narrow hori-zons of choice as have formerly protected her fromunother "adventure in fU88." Perhaps, however,this statement had better be amended. It is not allwidows with whom Captain Molyneux's famousdressmaking establishment is concerned. It is onlythose who owe their solitude to purely mechanicalagencies. It is, in fact, especially for the divorceethat this great Parisian couturier has designed hisfamous yellow wedding gown.First of all, let us remind you that Molyneux

doesn't believe in putting any bridal rein on color.Wasn't it he, in fact, who first showed us thatwedding gown of pale pink that caused such afuror some seasons ago? Yes, Captain Molyneuxbelieves quite evidently in colored films for wed-ding parties, and nothing proves it better than thisnew model designed especially for the divorcedwoman who wishes to recapture some of the firstfine careful rapture of the wedding procession.We illustrate this famous wedding gown of the

present season in the center of the page and weintroduce it with the word that were it not pos-sible to translate it into a white model for theheroine of a first wedding we should not otherwisedevote so much space to such an exceptional case.But in its line, so simple and so graceful, it is anexcellent guide for the usual bride and its color ispurely incidental.Very well, then. Here it is as it stands. The

material is georgette and its color is frankly yellow.One must pause here for a few flippant remarks.A yellow aura, as the theosophists would say, in-stead of the yellow orange blossom I Or, taking lib-erties with Gilbert and Sullivan, why not chant forthe wedding processional,

I'm a ie ne 8ai8 quai young bride,A qreeneru yallery,Ex-Mr8. Mallory,Je ne 8ais quoi young bride.

The yellow represents not the only prismatic in-terest in this gown, for the tulle is rose colored andit falls from a chaplet of pink apple blossoms.So much for it in its specialized color appliea-

lion. But, as I have said, here is a gown that willbe even more lovely if carried out in the traditionalwhite. Also would it lose none of its charm if thematerial, instead of being georgette, were to besatin,

NO BRIDAL

For the bridesmaid Lanvin designs aroyal blue tulle with ruffles of organdy boundi1t silver. .

Second, Lanvin's new robe de style forthe bride herself is achieved of white taffeta

Before passing from this frock observe the charmof the girdle adjusted just at the point where threepanels fall in uneven lengths below the hem of thegown. These panels indicate how much the irregu-larity of the skirt hem has been deflected in themode of the wedding gown. In fact, the wholetenor of the mode is more or less adjusted to acostume which nevertheless demands as its firstelement a formality and a dignity independent ofany current caprices of fashion.What does one mean by this last statement?

Well, let us reflect, for example, upon the bouffantehip drapery that is found in every important col-lection of spring costumes. Now it goes withoutsaying that the bouffante side drapery has beentaken over by the designer of the wedding gown.Yet to make this feature as exaggerated as it ap-pears in many evening gowns would be entirely outof keeping with that note of restraint which mustguide the creation of the wedding gown. While ap-pearing in some of the newest wedding gowns it iscertainly sublimated in the interest of that essen-

HOW TO CHOOSE A WIFE By Doris and(Continued from page five.)

woman, who feared to oppose you, would probablytry to deceive you.Possibly a woman with a foreign upbringing would

make you the best wife, for the average Americanwoman expects more attention than you will belikely to give her. Try as much as possible to putyourself in a woman's place and think of the dis-advantages of a restricted life. Your sense of jus-tice may help even when your heart cannot bereached.

KEY NUMBER 234.Get a woman who likes to be bossed, for you are

apt to see no way but your own in crucial situations.It is probably the best way, and you are pleasantabout it, but only a docile woman will accept ithappily. You need a woman who will merge herpersonality into yours instead of resenting yourdomination.Clinging vines still send tendrils husbandward ;

so look for a viny girl and avoid women who standon their own feet. You will not give your wifefreedom and you cannot give her riches; but youwill admire her, pet her, and take good care of her.To many women the love which you can give isdearer than anything else in the world.

KEY NUMBER 235.Not to choose, but to be chosen, is the fate likely

to befall you. You have charm for women and youare rather helpless before a de-termined female who is youngand pretty. You are kind evento the unattractive ones, andwhen a lovely lady puts her headon your shoulder and bursts intotears you want to take care ofher for the rest of her life. Un-fortunately, your somewhat gen-tle nature is not the sort thatpacks a fat pocketbook, andlovely ladies in distress are likelyto cost. a man a lot of money.This state of affairs will plungeyou into despair.Since you cannot resist a wom-

an in tears, dodge the gold dig-gers, vixens, and martyrs, and letyourself be captured by a wom-an who can enjoy life withoutluxuries. .

KEY XUMBER 245.If you are so fortunate as to

secure a wife who takes your ad-vice about bridge, political can-didates. and the coior to paintthe woodwork, do be generousand tell her that she makes bet-ter pie than your mother could.You would be in a pickle if

you married a woman with awill of her own, and she wouldbe even worse off. Give yourwife an allowance, even if itis small, to spend as she chooses, and say some-times. "What would you like to do this evening,dear?" Remember to say "dear," because sweetwords do not slip unconsciously from your tongue.

KEY NUMBER 345.How you do love the woman you- haven't got I

You are wonderful to the sweetheart in your desertisland dream and tender with the fairy princess.You long to take care of a real woman, protect herfrom the harsh world, and deluge her with adora-tion. Only the real woman doesn't play up to youproperly. She has ideas of her own that clash withyours. The flesh and blood wife wants a betterhouse, and says, " Johnny shan't be punished," eventhough he deserves it. Actual women annoy andrepel you, and you become cynical and sorry foryourself.Find a docile, domestic, unambitious woman, and

accept her limitations. Resign yourself and yourhopes of happiness to a human being, for you can-not support a princess, and angels do not marry.

KEY NUMBER 1234.You are the type that grows into a stern father.

One feels rather sorry for you in these days, whenstem fathers no longer have the sympathy of theaudience. Your world is divided sharply into sheepand goats; upon the sheep you shower kindness andthe goats you cast into outer darkness.It is, of course, essential that your wife should be

a sheep. The difficulty is that you want a womanof wisdom and character who, nevertheless, must

not have a will of her own. The best way to solveyour problem is to marry a woman who is stableand who is dreadfully fond of you.

~a!, 6, 1928

REIGN

alld tulle.In the center, that yello'W georgette

gown with its pink veil was designed byM olyneu:r for the lady making her secondbridal experiment.

tial dignity which must mark this ceremonial robe.In the beautiful model of our fourth sketch the

famous house of Worth, which has designed bridalgowns for many generations of the most spectacularbrides of three continents, shows how the necessarycompromise may be effected. Here is a loopeddrapery at the side fastened with an ornament ofpearls that represents the one single touch of out- ,_side trimming. Yet there is nothing exaggeratedabout this accent. It falls into complete harmonywith every canon of good taste.White satin is the medium for this frock, includ-

ing a train that hangs from the shoulders, and itis covered by a tulle veil bordered in lace. Thisveil is adjusted with a pearl diadem.Speaking of white satin, one must remark speed-

ily that the white of today's wedding gown is nolonger that. same trying tone which so tested thebrides of another generation. Not for some seasonshas white been dead white. It is now living whiteand carries in its depths faint yet warm suggestionsof other tones. Typical of this sentiment for big-

KEY NUMBER 1235.Don't choose a jealous wife, for you may give her

cause for jealousy. Your danger will be that in oneof your martyrdom moods, when you think you arebeing persecuted, you will turn to any woman whogives you affection and sympathy. A jealous wifemight whip a. harmless affair of this sort into some-thing more dangerous, but a wife who doesn't cross-question you will find you coming back to her assoon as you have cheered up.You are the sort who attracts women, so you will .

probably marry young and keep right on attractingthem. However, you have enough common senseto keep a mild flirtation within bounds, howevermuch you enjoy it.

KEY NUMBER 1245.A frail woman with large, wistful eyes

is the kind that could get on with youbest in the long run,but you really pre-fer an up to date,experienced young

Yet men who insiston custom-made clothes think a

ready-made wife can be altered to fit.

woman who talks back to you. However, you andshe would quarrel after a month of marriage soyou'd better let her marry some one else. 'Choose some one who doesn't know whether she

wants to go to the mountains or the seashore, be-

ON COLOR-

The beautiful and dignified Worth wed-ding gown which follows is of 'White satin.

Last, Worth's suggestion for the brides-maid is itt pink tulle with necklace of rubiesset in to the guimpe.

gel' and better whites is the shade which Patou haslaunched and which he names after the shell of theegg it imitates. This tone is used by the greatcouturier for many different types of costume, andthere is certainly no reason why it should not beapplied to the wedding gown.A beautiful quality of white satin with the new

warm tinge of color is undoubtedly first choice oftoday's most fashionable brides. These gowns areusually made with the same long fitted sleeves wehave learned to know so well. The neck line isvariable and includes square, V, round, and ellipti-cal effects. This year the waistline has mounted abit in response to a general sentiment anent thatsubject, but still the long waisted mouenaae line,so expressive of the simple dignity demanded bythe occasion, is retained. Skirts, as we have alreadysaid, are inflected with the same irregularity thatprevails elsewhere.As for trimming, this seems more and more re-

strained. Many of the most beautiful of these newsatin gowns have not a single touch of pearls or of

Webstercause she'll have to go where you tell her, anyhow.Choose some one who will not be too concernedover your rages; who greets them with surpriserather than fear. As you're sure to insist that shedress the way you like, cultivate a taste for expen-sive and up to date clothes for women. Thenyou'll be proud of her and feel that she is a fittingwife for a successful man.

KEY NUMBER 1345.Everybody knows you're boss in your house. The

thing you have to guard against is marrying awoman who loves to be domineered over by thestrong, forceful cave man but who wakes up to

7

lace. When ornamentation is employed, in {act, itis with the same sparing touch which we observein the Worth model at the right. Just a single or-nament of pearls to hold the drapery and thatis all.The fact of it is that lace today is frequently

omitted from even the veil. These clouds of diaph-anous white enveloping the bride's figure are, tobe sure, occasionally bordered and capped withsome exquisite d'Alencon or Venise or rose pointlind more rarely they are achieved entirely of lace.But many a fashionable bride of this year hasproved that, so far as she was concerned, "worn by

/ the bride's mother" is as obsolete as the hassock.The arrangement of the veil over the head is, of

course, one of the moss vital considerations in thisproblem of the wedding costume. To wear a medi-eval coif when your whole face and figure is cryingout for a diadem-yes, this is a tactical blunder.Fortunately there are a hundred different methodsof draping the veil and serious thought on thesubject will always result in getting just the rightf'lJect for the right person.For the very young bride there are still many

who feel in some version of the robe de style theideal solution of the bride's gown. To these themodel from Lanvin, second from the left, is boundto have special appeal. We find incorporated inthis a white taffeta corsage to which is attached afull skirt dipping almost to the ground in the backto correct any impression of brevity in the front.This skirt is made of a succession of tulle ruf-

fles, each bound with taffeta, and it is echoed by adetail that represents one of the salient featuresof the new spring mode. This year Lanvin is mak-ing little shoulder capes, which are held in front bya narrow strip of the material. This is the noveltythat is practiced here. A cape of tulle borderedwith the same tulle ruffles edged with taffetamerges into a band fastening with one button atthe front. This same band of tulle is piped in taf-feta and falls over a guimpe of white tulle, includ-ing long fitted sleeves. The veil of tulle is held bya chaplet of orange blossoms.Of the two bridesmaids' costumes which we show

special mention must be made of a feature distin-guishing the Worth model of our fifth sketch, forhere a ruby necklace is actually sewn in to achievethe neckline of this pink tulle model.

[Cop;yrlrht: 1928: B;y The Chlcaro Tribune.]

Other oiews vf today's models.

Mary Alden Hopkinswonder what she ever saw in it .. Your type is ex-tremely attractive to women. They like your love-making, coming unexpectedly after a period of in-difference, and they admire your energy and mascu-line de~ision of character. During your engagementyou WIll alternate between joy and dark despairand there is a very good chance that it will b~broken off once or twice, only to be renewed in ascene of intense happiness.The kind of woman who thinks your wisdom is

infallible and your happiness all-important is prob-ably the only kind who can steadily and consis-tently get along with you asyou are now. Yet itmust be admitted that few men can give a womanas much spasmodic happiness as you.

KEY NUMBER 2345.Your wife will have to remember

to wind the clock and lock the win-dows; she will ha~e to subdue herlongings for a fur coat; and she willhave to find some outlet for her excessaffections unless she is unduly cold. Onthe other hand, you will offer a pleasant

home, friendly companionship, anda free hand in domestic economy.But it will literally have to be econ-omy unless one of you happens to.inherit money.The woman who fits best into

this situation is either one who isable to make. money for herself orwho can get along without it. Pref-erably she should be the former, forif she has an active interest outsidethe home it may compensate foryour rather temperate affection.

KEY NUMBER 12345.Once in a while you get into the

mood of II nobody loves me," andyou wish you hadn't quarreledwith your sweetheart because shewas late for the movies. At suchtimes you wish you had a betterdisposition and determine to dowhat you can to improve it. But

at other tim e s you thinkyou are quite right to be an-noyed with people who do nottoe the mark. You certainlytoe the mark yourself, and itmakes you very uncomfortable,so why shouldn't other people

be uncomfortable, too?Your wife should be punctual,

efficient, and patient, and shouldhave a high sense of integrity.She should also be cheerful, andmight well be socially ambitious,for you would be ready to give hera good home and a car. A levelheaded woman who has warmthbut is also self-restrained wouldprobably be able to handle you.

In another article the au-thors will reverse the subjectand give a few concrete rulesfor husbQ11dpicking.