20th Century Fashion Designers

Name: Kitty Goh Xin Ting (201410016)Maffinda Liu Sze Min (201410011)Wong Jing Wen (201410004)

Lecturer: Ms. Dot MacKenzieModule: Critical Thinking Date: 17th July 2014

Outline• Introduction to designers in these periods:

-1900s-1920s

-1930s-1940s

-1950s-1960s

-1970s-1980s

-1990s-2000s

-2000s-current

• Influences on fashion history

• Contributions

• Signature designs

1900’s- 1920’s

Influence on Fashion History

1900s- 1910s

Industrial Revolution

1910s

World War l1920s

Roaring 20s

( Estherlarson, 2011)

1900’s- 1920’s1900s- 1920sPaul Poiret• French Designer (Clark, 2007)

• Born on April 8th 1879, in Paris (Poiret

1879, 2002)

• Known as “King of Fashion” (Poiret

1879, 2002) or “ Father of Modern

Fashion” (Clark, 2007)

• Could not eliminate the use of corsets

(Clark, 2007)

“It was my inspiration of artists, in my

dressing of theatrical pieces, that I served

the public of my day” (Paul Poiret 1879-

1944, n.d.)

1900s- 1920s

(Paul Poiret 1879-1944, n.d.) (Paul Poiret 1879-1944, n.d.)(Pinterest, n.d.)

1900s- 1920sCoco Chanel

• Born in Saumur, in the Loire Valley of France

• Lived in poverty since young

• Convent education

• Inspired by the hardship of her early life & men’s clothing

• Eliminated the use of corsets

• Used Jersey in most of her design (fabric ommonly used

for men’s underwear)

(Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel (1883- 1971) and the House of

Chanel, n.d.)

1900s- 1920s

(Mary, 2010)(Chanel’s First Collection, 2010) (Fairley, 2008)

1930s- 1940sInfluence on

Fashion History1930s

• Depression Era

1940s• World War ll

• Military Influence

( Estherlarson, 2011)

( Estherlarson, 2011)

1930s- 1940sElsa Schiaparelli• Italian designer (Sowray, 2012)

• Born on September 10, 1890, in Rome

• (Biography.com, n.d.) (Sowray, 2012)

• Became famous- cooperated with artist -

Salvador Dali

• “Schiaparelli pink”- packaging of perfume

• Created zippers in colors

• Presented her ideas - catwalk accompanied

by music & art

1930s- 1940s(Schiaparelli-shoe-hat, 2011)

( Elsa Schiaparelli and Sunday Galleries, 2010) (Schiaparelli.com, n.d.)

(Elsa Schiaparelli and Sunday Galleries, 2010)

1930s- 1940sMadeleine Vionnet• Born in June 22, 1876 (Medeleine

Vionnet, n.d.)

• Called “ queen of the bias cut” and

“architect among dressmakers”

(Medeleine Vionnet, n.d.)

• Influenced by Greeks (Vionnet, master

in manipulating fabric, n.d.)

“when a woman smiles, then her dress

should smile too” (Vionnet, n.d.)

1930s- 1940s

(Vionnet, n.d.)

(Bias cut, n.d.)

(Pinterest, n.d.)

1950s-1960sInfluence on Fashion History

1950sRock and Roll

1960sCivil Rights

1950s-1960s

Pierre Cardin

• Born on 7th July 1922, Venice, Italy.

• Fond of ballet and theatre.

• World's best designer in 1962.

• Influenced by art of Salvador Dali and

Pablo Picasso.

(IMDb, 2014)

(Fashion School Daily, n.d.)

1950s-1960s

Contribution•Goodwill Ambassador of UNESCO in 1991

•Support ed World Foundation for AIDS Research and Prevention Programs

•Humanitarian Projects

•Global Traveler

(IMDb, 2014)

(Innovations in Civic Participation, n.d.)

Signature Design

(Bubble dress (pinterest, 2014) (Wool, metal dress, 1968)

(Jersey knit, wool separates, Winter 1968)

• Advanced cut design.

• Creative style, space

age design, geometric

shapes.

• Ignored female form.

(Isaspacey, 2011)

Mary Quant

• Born on 11th January 1934

• London, England.

• Inventor of mini-skirt and hot pants

(Aqidah, n.d.)

• Received medal of achievement from

Queen in 1966 (Fact Monster, 2007)

• Influenced by Chelsea beatniks she

knew and dance outfits she

remembered from childhood lessons

(Victoria and Albert Museum, 2014)(Aqidah, n.d.)

1950s-1960s

Signature design

(Victoria and Albert Museum, 2014)

•Simple shapes combined with

strong colours.

•Low prices.

(Victoria and Albert Museum, 2014)

•Create a London Look:

-Knee-high

-White

-Patent

-Plastic

-Lace up boots

-Tight, skinny rib sweaters i stripes

& bold checks

(Baby Boomer Central, 2010)

(The World of Kays, 2011)

1970s-1980s

1970sHippy to Disco Era

1980sYuppie Movement

1970s-1980s

Ralph Lauren

• Born on 14th October 1939, New York.

• His style has sense of snobbism.

• Influenced by his wife.

(Infomat Fashion, 2013)

• Won COTY Award in 1970.

(Andrea, 2011)

• American Fashion Award in 1975.

(Polo Sport, 2011)(Koket, 2013)

1970s-1980s

Contribution•Established Fashion Targets Breast Cancer (FTBC) in 1990.

• Donated $13 million to Smithsonian Institution in 1998.

• Established Ralph Lauren Centre for cancer care

and prevention in 2001.

(Look to the Stars, 2014)

1970s-1980sSignature Design

(The Red List, n.d.)

1970s-1980sCalvin Klein

• Born on 19th November 1942, New York.

• Sales of 200,000 pairs of jeans were sold in

1978.

• Youthful, understated.

(Parmodt782, 2013)

• Won COTY Awards from 1972-1974.

• Won American's Best Designer Award in 1993.

(Indobase, n.d.)(Davis, n.d.)

1970s-1980sContribution

Brought simple, luxuriouselegant clothing

Used natural fibre, e.g. cotton, wool

in place of polyester andrayon

Used neutral earth tones

(Net Industries, n.d.)

1970s-1980s

(The Fashion Spot, 2008)(The Week, 2011)

1990s through 2000s

Influence of Fashion

Technology Era

Marc Jacobs

• Born in New York City, April 9th 1963

( Marc Jacobs Biography, n.d.)

• In the fall of 1993 ( Marc Jacobs Biography,

n.d.)

- Own licensing and design company

• In 1994 ( Marc Jacobs Biography, n.d.)

frst full collection of menswear

• In 1997 ( Marc Jacobs Biography, n.d.)

- Appointed Louis Vuitton’s (LV) creative

director

First ready-to-wear clothing line

( Marc Jacobs Biography, n.d.)

(Marc Jacobs, n.d.)

Contributions of Marc Jacobs

(Marc Jacobs beauty packaging design by Established, 2013) (GOOD UNIQUE FASHION, 2012)

Designs• pairs patterns and textures (Critchell, 2011)

• finds balance between artistry and commercialism (Critchell, 2011)

• sees the importance in a visual statement (Critchell, 2011)

• Influenced on “grunge” (Dung Le, n.d.)

( Reuters, 2012)

(Marc Jacobs 2009, Too Weird for Normal People, 2009)

Tom Ford

(Tom Ford is a Fashion God, 2013)

• Born in Austin, Texas, August 27th 1961

(Tom Ford Biography, n.d.)

• In 1992 (Tom Ford Biography, n.d.)

- rising to Design Director

• In 1994 (Tom Ford Biography, n.d.)

- Creative Director in Gucci

• In 2005 (Tom Ford Biography, n.d.)

- own fashion company (Tom Ford Brand)

Contribution of Marc Jacobs

(Tom Ford collection of cosmetics for men, n.d.) (Verma, 2013) (FashionLover3, n.d.)

Designs

(London Fashion Week / Tom Ford Spring-Summer collection 2014, 2013)

(London Fashion Week / Tom Ford Spring-Summer collection 2014, 2013)(Joan, 2011)

• Classic simplicity (Rules of Style From

Tom Ford, n.d.)

• Mixing patterns (Rules of Style From

Tom Ford, n.d.)

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Jason Wu

(About Jason Wu, n.d.)

• Born in Taiwan, September 27th 1982 (Jason

Wu, n.d.)

• In 2007 (About Jason Wu, n.d.)

- debuting his Ready-to-Wear collection

• January 2009 (All About Jason Wu: American

Designer Catapulted to Fame, n.d.)

- Michelle Obama wore a white gown to her

husband's first Inaugural Ball

• In 2011 (About Jason Wu, n.d.)

- handbag and shoe collection

• In June 2010 (About Jason Wu, n.d.)

- won the Swarovski Award for Womenswear at

the CFDA Fashion Awards

Contributions of Jason Wu

(Hamlin, 2014)(Jason Wu Fall 2012 Shoes Collection, 2012)

Designs• Design Collection for Target (Jason Wu releases collection

at Target Stores, 2012)

- Idea of American girl in Paris

- Fresh, new line

- Cat (Milu) decorated on some garments

(Jason Wu releases collection at Target stores, 2012)(Zipp, 2009)

Alber Elbaz

(Alber Elbaz, n.d.)

• Born in Casablanca, Morocco, in 1961

(Alexander, 2011)

• In 2001 (Alexander, 2011)

- Creative director of Lanvin

• CFDA's 2005 International Designer

Award (Alexander, 2011)

• In 2007, Paris (Alexander, 2011)

- highly prestigious Legion of Honour

• In November 2010 (Alexander, 2011)

- H&M for Lanvin line

Contributions of Alber Elbaz

(THE LANCÔME SHOW BY ALBER ELBAZ COLLECTION, 2013)

Designs

• simple, feminine collections (Admin, 2012)

(Admin, 2012) (Brajovic, 2012)

• Alber Elbaz’s 10th anniversary collection

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