Already in the mediaeval periodthere are mentions of a holm-oakwood, which no longer exists, wherebandits took refuge. Below you canmake out Argentera, one of theseven villages that made up thebarony of Escornalbou from the lastthird of the 13th century; themonastery held the lordship over itand since its foundation the priorwas responsible for the legal,financial and administrative affairs of this mediaeval territorial division.

The old spring provided drinking-water for the monastery, althoughthere were several cisterns forcollecting rain-water, which wasdevoted to other purposes. Centurieslater, the spring and its surroundingswere the setting for manygatherings and discussions of EduardToda and his literary friendsbelonging to the Renaixençamovement, who often visited thecastle, particularly in summer.

Here we find a shield with a T ona field of wavy bars, whichsymbolize Tarragona

Here you can also see a shieldwith the arms of the kings of theCrown of Aragon, and anotherwith the arms of Castile andLeon, which might have beenadded subsequently, perhaps as ahomage to the wife of kingAlfons II of Catalonia-Aragon,Sança de Castella. It seems tohave been erected on theoccasion of a visit by kingAlfonso XIII to Escornalbou. Eduard Toda, with the help of hismother, Francesca Güell,

undertook the rebuilding ofEscornalbou and did a free,imaginative restoration, takingadvantage of old materials andsome pre-existing buildings. Forexample, on the lower storey of the wall of the church, to theright of the main doorway, areremains that probably comefrom an old Roman fortificationbuilt of white sandstone which,according to Eduard Toda,preceded the Romanesquemonastery built of red stone.

Can you see the smiling facebeside the doorway into thehouse? Eduard Toda, with hisindividual sense of humour, putprotective images, which he mayhave brought from China, atseveral strategic points on the fortifications. See if you can findthem!

rocks of the mountain. This may have been built at thetime the path was opened up. Tothe right of the entrance is aprayer to Our Lady by the poetVíctor Balaguer, carved on astone plaque.

Close to the sanctuary is aninformation panel describing theflora and fauna to be found onthe mountain. The cool andhumid microclimate here, almost700 metres above sea level,means that the plant and animalspecies here differ from those inthe surrounding area.

The Friars’ Walk

The Friars’ Walk was opened upin 1818, partly to obtain stonefor the extensions to themonastery and partly to providea leisure facility for the friars.Now, the path offers panoramicviews that stretch fromL’Hospitalet to the mountains ofPrades, and along the coast fromthe Garraf massif to the riverEbre. Tarragona, Reus, the capeof Salou, Cambrils and the ParcSamà are conspicuous close by.There are those who say that onclear days the mountains ofMallorca can be seen on thehorizon. On the west rises thepeak of La Mola, 1,000 metreshigh, and on the north is theMontsant range.

Half-way along the path you willcome to the sanctuary of theThree Virgins, sheltered by the

The Font del SarraíThe name of this The name of thisspring, which is currently dry, isinterpreted as a reminder of thetimes of the Moors at Escornalbou. Infact, this spot, and the path thatleads to it, are the scene of a legendof love between a Moor and aChristian. The story has it that in thetime when the Moors occupied themouintain, the son of the local emirand the wife of the steward ofEscornalbou fell in love. One daywhen the lovers were to keep trystat the spring, the lady, fearing anattack by her jealous husband, whenshe saw her lover mounted on ahorse, ran to mount in front of him.The horse began to gallop up thepath and reached the place nowknown as the Salt del Dimoni (Devil’sLeap), stopped and leapt off. It is saidthat the bodies of the lovers neverappeared at the foot of the precipice,nor that of their horse; the Devil hadbeen waiting for them below and had

carried them off to hell.Further along the path, you will hearthe sounds of the holm-oak woods,which many consider to be one ofthe most beautiful things about Escornalbou.

The sanctuary of Santa BàrbaraThis sanctuary, which can be datedon stylistic grounds to the late18th or early 19th century, isdedicated to Santa Bàrbara, whoprotects against storms andlightning, and was invoked towatch over the inhabitants of themonastery and of the barony’s

villages in the valley below.Eduard Toda hypothesised thatthe sanctuary was built on theremains of a tower which heconsidered to be of Roman origin,and which in Moorish times wasknown as the Zalòquia, or Aguait(watchtower) because of itslocation. The panorama that can be seenfrom the highest point onEscornalbou explains why themountain was already occupied inprehistoric times: it dominates theentire region.

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WALKS AROUND THE CASTLE-MONASTERY OF SANT MIQUELD’ESCORNALBOUTHE NAME ESCORNALBOU IS FIRST MENTIONED IN SOME 12TH-CENTURY DOCUMENTS THAT REFER TO A PLACE CALLED CORNUBOVIS. THE MEANING IS NOT KNOWN FOR CERTAIN AND THEREARE SEVERAL THEORIES. WHAT IS CLEAR IS THAT IT RELATES BULLWITH THE TYPE OF STONE OF WHICH THE MOUNTAIN IS MADE,BASICALLY SANDSTONE USED FOR MILLING AND GRINDING.ANOTHER EXPLANATION, HEARD IN THE VILLAGES IN THEDISTRICT, IS THAT THE NAME REFERS TO THE SHAPE OF THEMOUNTAIN WHICH, SEEN FROM A DISTANCE, IS SAID TO RECALLTHE HORN OF A BULL.TO REACH THE FORTIFIED MONASTERY YOU HAVE ALREADY HADTO CLIMB A STEEP HILL, SINCE THE EXISTING BUILDINGS STAND650 METRES ABOVE SEA LEVEL.THEY ARE IN A MIXTURE OF STYLES, AND THEY HAVE BEEN USEDFOR A VARIETY OF PURPOSES OVER THE CENTURIES. THEIR

HISTORY BEGINS IN THE MID 12TH CENTURY, WHEN A HOUSE OFAUGUSTINIAN CANONS WAS FOUNDED, ATTACHED TO THE SEE OFTARRAGONA. BUT AFTER MANY CHANGES, HAVING BEEN INHABITED BYRECOLLECT AND OBSERVANT FRANCISCANS, AFTER WARS ANDCONFLICTS, THE MONASTERY WAS DEFINITIVELY ABANDONED FROM1835 UNTIL A DIPLOMAT FROM REUS, EDUARD TODA I GÜELL, BOUGHT ITABOUT 1909 AND TURNED IT INTO AN EARLY 20TH-CENTURY MANSION.AT THE MAIN ENTRANCE YOU CAN SEE A RELIEF CONTAINING THE LETTERTAU (T) AND THE DATE 1912, A HISTORICAL REFERENCE INCLUDED BYEDUARD TODA TO REMIND US OF THE FACT THAT THE MONASTERYORIGINALLY PERTAINED TO THE BISHOPRIC OF TARRAGONA, ALONGWITH THE DATE OF RESTORATION OF THE ARCH.THE ENTRANCE TOWER IS A REMINDER THAT ESCORNALBOU WAS AFORTIFIED MONASTERY, AND OF HOW ITS OCCUPANTS NEEDED TODEFEND THEMSELVES FROM POSSIBLE ATTACKS AT TIMES OF WAR ANDSOCIAL UNREST, AS DID OTHER MONASTERIES IN THE REGION, ALSOFORTIFIED, SUCH AS POBLET AND SANTES CREUS.

Courtyard

The walls you see from thecourtyard tell the history ofEscornalbou. The monastery wasfounded by order of king AlfonsII of Aragon and I of Cataloniawhen he granted the lands atEscornalbou to Joan de Santboi,the first prior, authorising himto fortify the site, inhabit it andbuild there a house ofAugustinian canons dedicated toSant Miquel and subject to theDiocese of Tarragona.

The T represents all the elementsconnected with the monastery’s origins: the See of Tarragona, towhich Escornalbou was subject,and one of whose symbols wasthe Tau. It is the first letter ofTeos, the name of God in Greek,as well as of Tecla, patron saintof the diocese, and indeed ofEduard Toda’s surname.

The path that leads to thesanctuary of Santa Bàrbaraascends among leafy woods ofpines and holm-oaks, and atsome points offers splendidviews.

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Eduard Toda i Güell (Reus, 1885-Poblet, 1941).

Anverse of a Barcelona croat from the reignof Alfons II with the king’s image.

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Moor, from the Sant Jordi panel, P. Niçard-R.Moger, c.1468, MDM.

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THE CASTLE-MONASTERY OF SANT MIQUELD’ESCORNALBOU

GUIDED TOURS BY ARRANGEMENTTours with specialised guides are provided forgroups and schools.Information: Tel. 977 834 007Reservations: Tel. 695 186 873

OPENING TIMESTuesday to Sunday:From 1 October until 31 May: from 10 a.m.until 1.30 p.m. and from 3 p.m. until 5.30 p.m. From 1 June until 30 September: from 10 a.m.until 1.30 p.m. and from 4 p.m. until 7.30 p.m.The ticket office closes 30 minutes beforeclosing time and entrance is no longerpermitted.

SERVICES FOR VISITORS TO THE CASTLE-MONASTERYWCAudiovisuals ShopOnly guided tours are permitted

CLOSED• Mondays (except public holidays)• 1 and 6 January, 25 and 26 December.

FREE ADMITTANCE• Every Tuesday • 23 April (Saint George’s Day)• 18 May (International Museum Day)• 31 July (local festival)• 11 September (Catalonia’s National Day)• 21 September (local festival)• European Heritage Days.

INFORMATIONCastell Monestir de Sant Miquel d’Escornalbou Ctra. d’Escornalbou, s/n43771 RiudecanyesTel. 977 834 007

Museu d’Història de CatalunyaPlaça de Pau Vila, 308003 BarcelonaTel. 932 254 700www.mhcat.cat

CODE OF CONDUCT IN THECOUNTRYSIDE The surroundings ofEscornalbou form part of theArgentera range ofmountains. The naturalenvironment is relativelyfragile and it is thereforeimportant to make everyeffort not to disturb it. It isimportant that you observethe following code of conductduring your visit.

MonumentsDo not walk close to thewalls, it could be dangerous.The stone has a tendency tocrumble, and is in a badcondition in some places. Ifyou are with children youmust be very careful. Accessis available to places wheresafety measures are notalways in place. You must notinscribe anything on the wallsor write any kind of graffitianywhere. There are otherways of recording your visit.

FireIt is your obligation to ensurethat any cigarettes ormatches are completely andutterly extinguished. Duringthe course of your excursionyou will see copiousvegetation we would like topreserve from the risk of fireand this risk is particularlyhigh during the summer andduring droughts.

RubbishDo not leave any rubbish.Such things as such as tinsand bottles can harm bothpeople and animals as well aspolluting the environmentand marring the landscape.Please use the litter bins ortake all rubbish with you todispose of properly.

NoiseInsofar as possible avoidmaking strident noises suchas those produced byshouting and radios or othersimilar equipment. In the openair noise is highly perceptibleand travels a very long way.

Plants and flowersThe plant life deserves ourrespect and we have aresponsibility and duty topreserve it. If you are lookingfor mushrooms, do not causedamage to the woods byusing tools or scraping thesoil.

DogsIf you have brought a dogwith you, it is yourresponsibility to ensure thatit is always under your controland does not cause a nuisanceto other people, frighten wildanimals, or harm theenvironment by digging inthe soil and thereby damagingplants. Dogs are not allowedin the castle-monastery. Dogs’owners are responsible forany damage they may cause.

Car parkYou are recommended toleave vehicles outside themonument precinct. A carpark is provided.

Vehicle accessVehicle access is permittedonly on forest tracks open tothe public. Observe the signs.

CampingCamping is prohibited.

Holly (Ilex aquifolim)The prickly- and glossy-leaved holly isa common sight in central-Europeanwoods and in some ways it comes as asurprise to find it in Escornalbou. It iswell known as a traditional Christmasdecoration but it has been protectedand its collection has been prohibitedbecause of the important function itsred fruit serves as a food supply forfauna during the winter.

Bonelli’s eagle (Hieraäetus fasciatus)This is one of the largest birds of preyin our country. It makes its nestamongst the crags and, in Escornalbou,they can often be seen swooping incircles overhead.

Garden dormouse (Eliomys quercinus)The attractive garden dormouse can bedistinguished by its long tail with darkfur resembling an artist’s paintbrushand by its black markings around theeyes. This crepuscular and nocturnalrodent feeds on tender shoots, fruits,insects and snails.

Beech Marten (Martes foina)This predatory bird of the Mustelidaefamily can be easily distinguished bywhite markings that extend from thethroat to the breast in contrast to thebrown colour of its body. It iscommonly seen in humid woodswhere it feeds on birds, eggs and smallmammals.

Short-toed treecreeper(Certhia brachydactyla)The short-toed treecreeper climbs uptree trunks in a peculiar manner, in anascending spiral. Having thus climbeda tree, it flies down to the bottom ofanother tree trunk in order to repeatthe operation. It has a long, pointedbeak with which it forages for insectsand larvae under the bark.

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CASTLE-MONASTERYOF SANT MIQUELD’ESCORNALBOU

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THE NATURAL SURROUNDINGSThe Castle-Monastery of SantMiquel d’Escornalbou stands on asmall projection from the mountainof Santa Bàrbara (649 m) that risesover the Camp de Tarragona with theArgentera mountain range behind.These geographical conditions createa humid micro-climate well-suited tothe growth of woods containing blackpine, oak and holm-oak, althoughcork is also found. The fauna is fullyconsistent with the Mediterraneancharacteristics of the area. Alsonoteworthy is the red, sedimentaryrock which much of the mountain ismade of. In many places, it has beenmoulded into interesting shapes byerosion.

Black pine (Pinus nigra ssp.salzmannii)On the upper parts of the mountainthere are luxuriant woods of blackpine. They are particularly abundantbeside the Friar’s Walk. The black pineis the tallest of the pines to grow inCatalonia and can reach forty metres.Its leaves are long, its pine conessomewhat small. The trunk growsstraight up but in places exposed tonorth-westerly winds, examples withcurved trunks that have yielded totheir force can often be seen.

Common Whitebeam (Sorbus aria)One of the trees to be found in thehumid woods above the castle-monastery where it grows amidst thesmall-leaved oaks, pines andsycamores. It can be readily identifiedby its leaves, the bottom sides ofwhich are densely hairy and silvery-white.

Sarsaparilla (Smilax aspera)This is one of the most abundantspecies in oak woods. It is a climberwith abundant tendrils that enable itto cling to tree trunks. The red fruithangs in clusters.

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Historic buildings

Information

Panoramic view

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The three walks provide visitorswith the opportunity to observethe various structures associatedwith the castle-monastery of SantMiquel d’Escornalbou and tounderstand their historicalevolution within the context oftheir surroundings. A walk alongthe three routes is an idealopportunity to enjoy the peace andquiet of the countryside and thebreathtaking views over thebaronial domains and the Camp deTarragona with the sea beyond.The green of the mountain ofEscornalbou, and that of theArgentera mountain range will be alasting memory of your visit.

THE COURTYARDGuided tour of the building’sinterior.• Length: 1 hour.

LA FONT DEL SARRAÍ• Length: 10 minutes descent and

10-15 minutes ascent.• Difficulty: moderately difficult,

good footwear is advised.

FRIARS’ WALK• Length: 10-15 minutes.• Difficulty: easy, the walk is over

very level ground.

THE SANCTUARY OF SANTABÀRBARA• Length: 10-15 minutes ascent

and 10 minutes descent.• Difficulty: moderately difficult.

It is quite steep and there areirregular steps over the lastsection. Good footwear isadvised.

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