8 Best Botanical Oils for Oil Infusions

JUNE 2016 ACCREDITED ORGANIC COSMETIC SCIENCE SCHOOL

Macerating Oils

• Some of the most important ingredients in organic cosmetics are plant extracts and infusions

• Lipophilic plant extracts for cosmetics are often prepared through maceration – the process of infusing plant components in oil

• Plant macerates are then applied in a range of different skincare and cosmetics

• Which oils should you use to make botanical macerates and lipophilic extracts?

1. Soybean Oil

• Available at reasonable prices, but difficult to find the non-GMO variety

• Pleasant skin feel, neutral colour, decent scent

• Good thermal and oxidative stability

• Relatively short shelf life

Soybean Oil: Key Data

• INCI name: Glycine soja oil• Iodine value: 120–141• Saponification value (mg KOH/g) : 189-200• Lecithin content : up to 3%• Tocopherols: up to 800-1670 ppm, (mainly

gamma- and delta-tocopherol)• Phytosterols: 1800- 4000 ppm (mainly beta-

sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol)• Other ingredients: isoflavone, carotenoids,

Vitamin A, Vitamin B

Soybean Oil: Fatty Acid Composition

2. Sunflower Oil

• Used in 90% of all commercial macerations and lipophilic extracts

• Reasonable price, good availability

• Decent scent and colour which hardly affect the maceration

• Light skin feel with good thermal stability

Sunflower Oil: Key Data

• INCI name: Helianthus annuus seed oil• Iodine value: 118-145• Saponification value (mg KOH/g) : 186–194• Lecithin content: ca. 1%• Tocopherols: up to 1100 ppm, (mainly alpha-

tocopherol)• Phytosterols: up to 4500 ppm (mainly beta-

sitosterol, campesterol, beta-stigmasterol, Δ7-Stigmasterol)

Sunflower Oil: Fatty Acid Composition

This is the profile of the non-modified version of the oil

3. Almond Oil

• Classic oil for macerations• Faint inherent colour and decent

nutty fragrance• Thermal stability is superior to

soybean oil and sunflower oil• More expensive than soybean and

sunflower oils and more suitable for luxury products

• Consider potential nut allergies• Extreme tolerance for low

temperatures

Almond Oil: Key Data

• INCI name: Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil• Iodine value: 85-106• Saponification value (mg KOH/g) : 183-207• Tocopherols: up to 500 ppm alpha-tocopherol

and up to 100 ppm gamma-tocopherol• Phytosterols: up to 2600 ppm (mainly beta-

sitosterol)• Other components:• Squalene, Vitamin A, Vitamin B

Almond Oil: Fatty Acid Composition

4. Rice Bran Oil

• Light oil with very nice skin feel• Faint colour and decent inherent

scent• Reasonable thermal stability• Difficult to find the native

unrefined version of the oil• Contains gamma-oryzanol, a very

effective antioxidant

Rice Bran Oil: Key Data

• INCI name: Oryza sativa oil• Iodine value: 89-108• Saponification value (mg KOH/g) : 181-194• Tocopherols: up to 300 ppm• Phytosterols (10000 ppm): β-Sitosterol,

Campesterol, Stigmasterol, Δ5-Avenasterol• Other components: gamma-oryzanol (1-2%),

tocotrienols, polyphenols, lecithin (ca. 1%), squalene

Rice Bran Oil: Fatty Acid Composition

5. Jojoba Oil

• Unique oil as it is actually a liquid wax and not an oil

• Outstanding stability and long shelf life

• Light skin feel, decent colour, almost no inherent scent

• Provides long-lasting emolliencyand less greasiness than other oils

Jojoba Oil: Key Data

• INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis seed oil• Iodine value: 80-89• Saponification value (mg KOH/g) : 90-98• Tocopherols 660 ppm (Mainly alpha-

tocopherol)• Phytosterols: 3400 ppm (mainly Δ5-

Campesterol, beta-Sitosterol, Δ5-Stigmasterol)• Other ingredients: Provitamin A, Squalene

Jojoba Oil: Fatty Acid Composition

6. Macadamia seed Oil

• Not common as a carrier oil but has a unique fatty acid spectrum

• Relatively good thermal stability• Reasonable shelf life• Decent inherent scent and colour• High concentrations of

palmitoleic acid (around 20%) impart a very light silky skin feel and rapid absorption

• Consider potential nut allergies

Macadamia seed Oil: Key Data

• INCI name: Macadamia ternifolia seed oil• Iodine value: 74-76• Saponification value (mg KOH/g) : 193-196• Tocopherols: 190 ppm gamma-tocopherol• Phytosterols: ca. 1600 ppm (mainly beta-

sitosterol)

Macadamia seed Oil: Fatty Acid Composition

7. Baobab Oil

• Unconventional oil for maceration• Higher price point and limited

availability• Relatively long shelf life• Decent colour and scent• Good thermal and oxidative

stability

Baobab Oil: Key Data

• INCI name: Adansonia digitata seed oil• Iodine value: 76-78• Saponification value (mg KOH/g) : 190-192• Phytosterols: β-Sitosterol, Δ7-Avenasterol,

Campesterol, Cholesterol, Stigmasterol)• Vitamin A, D, E

Baobab Oil: Fatty Acid Composition

8. Castor Oil

• Heavy skin feel, more common in soap making than skin and haircare

• Very good thermal and oxidative stability

• Effective oil in cleansing products• Outstanding for dispersing

pigments and adding gloss• Good for incorporating

macerations into skin cleansing products, haircare and make-up

Castor Oil: Key Data

• INCI name: Rizinus communis seed oil• Iodine value: 140-150• Saponification value (mg KOH/g): 186-203• Phytosterols: ca. 700 ppm (mainly beta-

sitosterol, Stigmasterol, Campseterol, Δ5-Avenasterol)

• Tocopherol: 370 ppm gamma-tocopherol, 320 ppm delta-tocopherol

Castor Oil: Fatty Acid Composition

Where is Olive Oil?

We haven’t included Olive Oil even though it is very commonly used for maceration. Why?1. It is often highly adulterated.2. You won’t know if your oil is

virgin olive oil or olive pomace oil.

3. Unrefined olive oil has an intense colour and inherent scent which might affect your infusion.

General Tips for Macerating

• Boost the oxidative stability of macerations by adding 0.1% – 0.5% tocopherol or 0.05% -0.1% rosemary CO2 extract.

• Decant your oils to allow as little contact with air as possible.

• Prepare your macerations in small volumes so you always have access to fresh product.

• Store your macerations in a cool and dry place, protect from sunlight, heat and humidity.

How to label your macerations

Label your macerations with lots of detail:• Plant name + plant parts used• Maceration + filtration date• Exact formulation process –

including temperature, duration of heating/soaking

• Carrier oil• Exact weights (plants + carrier

oils) before and after filtration• Additives (e.g. antioxidants)• Dedicated serial / batch number

Read more?

Visit the Formula Botanica blog at:

http://www.formulabotanica.com/blog

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