98 126 - school of photography, medan - indonesia · bermukim di medan, ... bangunan arsitektur...

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Pulau BintanRiau, Indonesia

Salam Garuda Indonesia

M. Arif Wibowo, President & CEO of PT Garuda Indonesia (Persero) Tbk., personally welcomes you.

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98 126422 Travel Bintan

Endless natural beauty, a rich culture and history make Bintan a paradise in more ways than one.

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12628 112CONTRIBUTORS

Travel: Dieng

Muhammad FadliJakarta, Indonesia

Born in Bukittinggi, Fadli has based himself in Jakarta for the last four years. He is one of the founding members of Arka Project, an independent collective of Indonesian photographers, and his work has been published by Monocle, The New York Times and Forbes Indonesia among others.

Lahir di Bukittinggi, Fadli telah tinggal di Jakarta selama empat tahun terakhir ini. Dia juga salah seorang pendiri Arka Project, sebuah perkumpulan fotografer Indonesia independen. Foto-fotonya kerap muncul di berbagai majalah seperti Monocle, The New York Times, dan Forbes Indonesia.

Born in Jakarta, Juliana spent her formative years in Singapore and Melbourne before returning home to start a career in journalism. She counts driving through the Uyghur country in Xinjiang, western China, as one of her most memorable travels.

Lahir di Jakarta, Juliana menghabiskan masa kecilnya di Singapura dan Melbourne sebelum akhirnya kembali ke Jakarta untuk memulai kariernya dalam bidang jurnalisme. Pengalamannya yang paling berkesan adalah berkendara melewati daerah Uyghur di Xinjiang, China Barat.

What’s On

JulianaJakarta, Indonesia

Archipelago:Bintan

Suwandi ChandraMedan, Indonesia

A self-taught photographer and software developer by trade, Suwandi Chandra’s interest in photography blossomed while working in the USA in 2007. He is now based in Medan, but his love of nature, still-life and architectural objects continues to fuel his worldwide travels. www.suwandichandra.com

Minat Suwandi Chandra, fotografer autodidak sekaligus konsultan software developer, mulai berkembang saat bekerja di AS tahun 2007. Walau kini Suwandi bermukim di Medan, kecintaannya terhadap alam, objek hidup dan bangunan arsitektur terus membuatnya melancong ke berbagai belahan dunia. www.suwandichandra.com

74

Jakarta, Indonesia

Adi Nugroho Hadiwidjojo

Adi Nugroho Hadiwidjojo is a fashion and fine art photographer based out of Jakarta, Bandung and Yogyakarta. His passion is finding unexpected perspectives and using simple light and shadow to evoke emotions. He also manages Waga Studio and Gallery. facebook.com/Wagagallery

Adi Nugroho Hadiwidjojo adalah fotografer seni yang sering berada di Jakarta, Bandung, dan Yogyakarta. Dia senang memotret dari sisi yang tak biasa dengan pencahayaan sederhana dan shadow untuk menggugah rasa. Dia juga mengelola Waga Studio and Gallery. facebook.com/Wagagallery

Fashion

64Handcrafted

Singapore

Olha Romaniuk is a Singapore-based seniorexhibit designer, withclients ranging fromlocal art galleries tointernational museums,and a writer for a number of travel, design and architectural magazines, such as Dwell and Surface Asia. Olha considers herself to be an avid traveller and is a self-proclaimed foodiewho spends much of hervacation time exploringcountries and cuisinesall over the world.

Olha Romaniuk adalah desainer senior yang bermukim di Singapura, dengan klien mulai dari galeri seni lokal hingga museum internasional, juga penulis untuk beberapa majalah perjalanan, desain dan arsitektur seperti Dwell dan Surface Asia. Olha menyebut dirinya seorang petualang sejati, pencinta kuliner, dan menghabiskan banyak waktu luangnya untuk menjelajahi negara- negara dan kuliner di seluruh dunia.

Olha Romaniuk

8 Contributors

Comments & Suggestions: Please write in to Agency Fish or email: [email protected]. We may not always be able to enter into correspondence. Any opinion expressed is the honest belief of the author based on all available facts, but is not necessarily the view of Agency Fish, PT Garuda Indonesia (Persero) Tbk. or its employees. Comments and facts should not be relied upon by the reader in taking com-mercial, legal, financial, or other decisions. Articles are by their nature general, and readers are advised to seek specialist advice before acting on information published within which may not be appropriate for the readers’ particular circumstances. The publisher regrets that it cannot accept liability for any error or omissions printed, however caused. Colours magazine is published for PT Garuda Indonesia (Persero) Tbk. All rights reserved. The ownership of trademarks is acknowledged. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form without the express permission of the publisher in writing. Copyright © 2015 Agency Fish/PT Visindo Agensi Tama. E&EO.

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www.garuda-indonesia.com August 2015

Pulau BintanRiau, Indonesia









Bintan by Suwandi ChandraOne of the many simple

pleasures of island life: a breathtaking sunset.

Pesona nuansa senja di pulau yang menakjubkan.

CoversColours brings you the best of both worlds locally and abroad with two covers every month.

Kuala Lumpur by Anders Blomqvist

Façades of old Chinese shophouses on Jalan Hang Kasturi.

Tampilan depan ruko-ruko tua khas China di Jalan Hang Kasturi.

Welcome to ColoursSummer is almost over, but there’s still time yet for an

exotic Indonesian holiday. On Bintan, endless beaches and rolling forest landscapes have made the island an emerald treasure in tropical seas that surprises in more ways than one. For an urban escape, discover Singapore and Kuala Lumpur through the perspective of a new wave of artisans and creative entrepreneurs who are injecting new life into their home cities. Over in Europe, Warsaw is emerging as the continent’s next accessible, surprisingly affordable destination, where chic restaurants, cool quirky bars and shops abound alongside a vibrant arts and culture scene. Then it’s back to Indonesia to walk a higher plane in Dieng, the Plateau of the Gods, so called for it magical views, mythical ancient history and geological wonders.

Musim panas memang hampir berakhir, tetapi Indonesia masih menawarkan kesempatan untuk menikmati liburan nan eksotis. Di Bintan, Anda bisa menikmati sejumlah pantai dan hutan yang menjadikan pulau ini bak zamrud di perairan tropis, dengan banyak pesona menakjubkan di dalamnya. Di daerah perkotaan, Anda bisa melihat lebih dekat Singapura dan Kuala Lumpur lewat sudut pandang generasi muda, para pengrajin kreatif dan wirausahawan, yang membawa napas baru ke kedua kota ini. Di Eropa, Warsawa muncul sebagai destinasi baru yang mudah diakses dan terjangkau, tempat beragam restoran bergaya, bar unik dan pertokoan mudah ditemui di antara banyaknya kegiatan seni dan budaya. Kembali ke dalam negeri, kami pun menelusuri dataran tinggi Dieng, yang juga dijuluki “Rumah Para Dewa” karena pesona pemandangannya, sejarahnya yang bernuansa mistis dan keajaiban alamnya.

10 Publisher

Words and photography by Suwandi Chandra

Endless beaches and rolling forest landscapes have made Bintan Island one of the emerald treasures in these tropical

seas, while its fascinating history and rich culture have made it a paradise in more ways than one.

126 Travel | Bintan

The Kelong restaurant at the Nirwana Resort Hotel complex is a must to visit for its fresh seafood and unbeatable views.

127Travel | Bintan

Bintan is a unique paradise island and one of the main islands – in addition to Batam, Rempang, Galang, Combol, Kundur and Karimun – that form the Riau Archipelago. Located less than 70km south of Singapore, and about an hour’s ferry ride away, Bintan is about 2.5 times the size of its modern, sky-scraping neighbour with just a fraction of its population.

Bintan’s convenient location and pristine beaches have made the island a popular destination for domestic holidaymakers and visitors from East Asia, but long before the island attracted the well-heeled tourist, it held strategic value as a trading post for its size and position between China and India. According to Chinese chronicles, the first inhabitants can be traced back to the 3rd century, and by the 13th century Bintan had come under the control of the Malacca kingdom, before falling to the Sultanate of Johor in the 15th century and becoming the political and cultural epicentre of that kingdom. While the island’s trades flourished, so did the struggle for control of its wealth, with internal feuds between the Malay and Bugis people, as well as land and sea battles against foreign invading forces.

Bintan’s importance as a trading port began to decline in the 18th century while under Dutch rule leading up to Indonesian independence. The resulting ethnic mix of Bintan today is a true melting pot of Malay, Chinese, Bugis and indigenous sea gypsy descendants who all contribute to a colourful local culture.

Before hitting the epic beaches, I’m eager to absorb the intriguing mix of local culture that stems from such storied history. So I begin my trip about a half-hour drive from the airport by exploring the city of Senggarang, where most of the houses are built on stilts over the water. The homes here can be accessed either from the front land entrance – usually on a boardwalk – or by the water from the back. My local guide Maradu tells me the rear entrance functions as the jump-on, jump-off point for the traditional boats, sampan, which are sort of like a water taxi mainly used to go to and from the capital city Tanjung Pinang, Penyengat Island or any other nearby islands.

In the same town there are a number of Buddhist temples, with the Banyan Tree Temple the most revered. It literally has a banyan tree growing on top of it, with sturdy old roots entangling the 200-year-old building below. Many of the older locals gather here to enjoy the shade of the tree, to relax and chitchat the afternoon away.

Nearby a large temple impresses with its ornate Chinese patterns, vibrant colours and stunning views out to sea. The Senggarang

Make your way to the still-untouched Trikora Beach and walk on its beautiful and soft white sand. Many locals build floating houses (kelong) along the coast to catch fish.

128 Travel | Bintan

The sea gypsies use this very basic fishing equipment to catch fish.

A local man untying his boat before he sets out to sea with his family.

A sea gypsy family about to head out to sea. They use this small wooden boat as their house and carry out their day-to-day activities on it.

Temple Complex comprises many different temples, including the Sun Te Kong Temple, Marco Temple, Tay Ti Kong Temple, and also a Buddhist temple at the back. Most of the temples have been around for about 300 years, in parallel to the ethnic Chinese community. At the back of the Sun Te Kong Temple you can find a large Buddha statue and several other statues worn by time. Wandering this idyllic neighbourhood is an excellent introduction to local life and the local Chinese communities on Bintan.

From Senggarang we rent a small boat from a local fisherman to head towards the historic Penyengat Island. This small island houses many ruins and histories of the Sultanate of Johor. It was made the

capital of the kingdom, which was in decline at the time of the Portuguese rule over Malacca. At only 2.5km2 the only transportation available on the island today are becaks (rickshaws). The slow breeze from the back of a becak is a distinctly Indonesian experience, and on a picture-perfect island like this, with the scent of the sea in the air, it doesn’t get any better. First we visit the tombs of King Ali Haji Fisabilillah (a Bugis commander and national hero who died during the battle of Malacca against the Dutch in 1784 and who the local airport is named after) and Raja Hamidah (the creator and author of the first Malay-language grammar book) along with tombs of other royals. History buffs will also want to visit the northeast end of the island where there are many fascinating Islamic relics; chief among them is the Grand Mosque of the Sultan of Riau, built over 170 years ago to commemorate the union of King Ali Haji Fisabilillah and the daughter of the sultan, establishing peace between the Malay and Bugis people.

Time for lunch. We leave Penyengat Island and Maradu takes me to tuck in to some grilled chicken at Ayam Penyet in the capital. Popular among the locals, the restaurant serves up free-range grilled or fried chicken, served with sides of fried tofu or tempeh and some fresh greens, all made extra tasty with Bintan-style fiery sambal. Fresh coconut juice

Bintan’s importance as a trading port began to decline in the 18th century while under Dutch rule leading up to Indonesian independence.

Lagoi Bay An integrated beach resort development to complement the existing selection of established resorts in the Bintan-Resorts complex. Lagoi Bay will be lined with many luxury resorts, residences, business hotels and a selection of recreational amenities, from The Sanchaya, Grand Lagoi Swiss-Belhotel, Treasure Bay to the Plaza Lagoi Mall, which will offer many different shopping arcades and restaurants. The mall itself will have its own direct beach access. www.lagoibaybintan.com

Resor pantai terintegrasi di Asia ini tengah naik daun. Keberadaannya akan memperkaya pilihan resor yang telah berdiri di kompleks Resor Bintan. Wilayah tersebut akan diisi dengan kemewahan banyak resor, pemukiman, hotel bisnis, serta fasilitas rekreasi pilihan, mulai dari The Sanchaya, Grand Lagoi Swiss-Belhotel, Treasure Bay, hingga Plaza Lagoi Mall yang menyediakan beraneka pusat perbelanjaan dan restoran. Mal itu sendiri memiliki akses langsung ke pantai.

LAGOI BAY

129Travel | Bintan

washes it all down and is just the thing to cool off from the tropical heat.

We then decide to work off our lunch with a walk through the distinctly Dutch wet market, where fishermen are busy bringing in their catches throughout the day. There is a variety of dried seafood for sale, a perfect souvenir snack for friends at home to get a taste of Bintan.

The captain of our water taxi, Pak Said, suggests that we end the day by heading east towards Trikora Beach on the eastern coast of Bintan. Trikora is very quiet and still untouched with long stretches of pristine white-sand shoreline reaching from south to north. Fishing villages punctuate the seemingly endless beach and I spot one of the famous boat makers here hard at work next to where the grass meets the sand. Part artist and part naval expert, he crafts his boats using only wood-cutting and -shaving tools, sculpting elegant curves from large blocks, guided by his instincts and experience.

As we head further north we come across nomadic Orang Laut (sea gypsies) in a small waterfront village where they stay to avoid storms. Day to day, the families live on their wooden boats, cooking and

eating while hopping from island to island to catch fish with traditional equipment and to make a living. They are still very conservative and fairly shy, so please treat them with due respect if you encounter this unique sight.

The northernmost quarter of the island has been converted into a tropical tourist playground, where the immaculate beach setting and blissful sea breezes are enhanced by a selection of some of the region’s most popular luxury resorts. And there are more underway, with investment coming in to build Bintan as Indonesia’s next holiday capital. I manage to catch the spectacular sunset from Nirwana Gardens resort, and as the sun dips down over the horizon, I reflect on my trip and can’t help but feel grateful to have experienced this incredible paradise, fuelled by history and filled with surprises. Bintan certainly leaves a lasting impression.

Most, if not all, boats used by the local fishermen are handmade. This local expert boat maker uses only his wood cutter to carve and shape his creations.

Travel Tips – Activities

Bintan Island’s rich underwater treasures create an ideal environment for snorkelling and scuba-diving activities. Its waters are gentle enough even for novices.

Pulau Bintan memiliki kekayaan bawah laut yang pas untuk snorkelling dan scuba-diving. Arus lautnya tak begitu kuat bahkan untuk pemula.

Take a journey up the 340-metre Gunung Bintan (Bintan Mountain) for a truly spectacular panoramic view from the summit, as far as the eye can see.

Anda dapat mendaki ke Gunung Bintan setinggi 340 m untuk mendapatkan pemandangan yang indah dari puncak gunung.

The exciting, panoramic slopes of Bintan Island provide an ideal environment for mountain biking. Enjoy a peaceful ride as you cycle up the hilly terrains of the island’s core, while taking in the amazing views around you.

Daratan Pulau Bintan yang berpanorama pas untuk bersepeda gunung. Nikmati bersepeda menanjak jalanan yang naik turun hingga ke tengah pulau dengan pemandangan indah di sekitarnya.

Scuba Diving

Island Trekking

Mountain Biking

130 Travel | Bintan

Perched on the magnificent Pasir Panjang Beach, overlooking the South China Sea, Bintan Lagoon Resort is a tropical paradise, home to sun, sea and two spectacular 18-hole championship golf courses. This Indonesian-style 470-room resort is sprawled over 310 hectares of manicured gardens, with a private, golden-sand beach that stretches nearly 1.5km, and a wide range of fun activities on offer including archery, billiards, cycling, all-terrain vehicles, go-karting, paintball, mini-golf and more. www.bintanlagoon.com

Terletak di Pantai Pasir Panjang yang megah, menghadap Laut China Selatan, Bintan Lagoon Resort merupakan surga tropis yang menyediakan sinar matahari, laut, serta dua kejuaraan golf 18-hole yang spektakuler. Resor bergaya Indonesia dengan kapasitas 470 kamar ini terbentang di area taman seluas 310 hektar dengan pantai pribadi berpasir kekuningan yang membentang hampir 1,5 kilometer dan beragam pilihan kegiatan yang menyenangkan, seperti memanah, biliar, sepeda, all-terrain vehicles, go-kart, paintball, mini-golf, dan lain-lain.

WHERE TO STAY

Bintan Lagoon Resort

A GOLFER’S PARADISE

The breathtaking 18-hole Ocean Course features smooth fairways with beautiful views of the South China Sea. It is the venue of choice for many regional events including the annual Golf Asia Challenge and Revo Coca-Cola Golf Carnival as well as the Ria Bintan Open, offering an enjoyable experience for all golfing enthusiasts.

18-hole Ocean Course memiliki fairways mulus dan panorama Laut China Selatan. Venue pilihan untuk kejuaraan regional seperti Golf Asia Challenge, Revo Coca-Cola Golf Carnival dan Ria Bintan Open, suguhan pengalaman menyenangkan bagi peminat golf.

Club Med Bintan island was recently named #10 resort in Asia for families. The island of Bintan to the south of Singapore, is full of history, marked by fallen empires and the spice trade. This resort is the ideal place for families and golfers to relax.

Bintan Lagoon Resort is world renowned for its two exceptionally designed 18-hole championship golf courses. The Jack Nicklaus Sea View Golf Course and the Ian Baker-Finch Woodlands Golf Course both offer spectacular signature holes, fast greens, undulating fairways and scenic water hazards.

Bintan Lagoon Resort terkenal di dunia karena dua lapangan golfnya yang didesain untuk kejuaraan 18-hole. Lapangan golf Jack Nicklaus Sea View dan Ian Baker-Finch Woodlands Golf menawarkan holes yang spektakuler, padang luas, fairways berkelok dan water hazards yang indah.

Bintan Lagoon Resort

Ria Bintan Golf Club

Club Med Bintan IslandClub Med Bintan Island

baru-baru ini dinobatkan sebagai 10 resor di Asia bagi keluarga. Pulau Bintan di selatan Singapura ini memiliki nilai historis. Resor ini ideal bagi keluarga dan pegolf untuk berlibur.

Bintan Island

LIFESTYLE

With an 18-hole golf course designed by Greg Norman, the Laguna Bintan Golf Club offers an exhilarating golf experience calculated to thrill as it challenges both novice and seasoned golfers.

Dengan padang golf 18-hole hasil karya Greg Norman, Laguna Bintan Golf Club menawarkan pengalaman bermain golf yang menantang baik bagi pegolf pemula dan profesional.

Laguna Bintan Golf Club

131Travel | Bintan

Pantai yang luas dan hutan lebat telah menjadikan Pulau Bintan salah satu kekayaan alam di Indonesia, dengan pesona sejarah dan kekayaan budaya yang menyempurnakan daya tarik “firdaus” ini.Bintan adalah pulau indah yang merupakan salah satu pulau utama—di samping Batam, Rempang, Galang, Combol, Kundur, dan Karimun—yang membentuk Kepulauan Riau. Terletak kurang dari 70 kilometer di selatan Singapura, sekitar 1 jam perjalanan lamanya menggunakan feri, Bintan berukuran sekitar 2,5 kali negeri tetangganya yang modern dengan gedung-gedung pencakar langitnya dan jumlah penduduk yang jauh lebih sedikit itu.

Letaknya yang mudah dijangkau serta pantainya yang masih asli menjadikan pulau ini destinasi populer bagi wisatawan domestik dan juga pengunjung dari Asia Timur. Namun, jauh sebelum menjadi destinasi wisatawan, pulau ini memegang peran strategis sebagai pos perdagangan karena luas dan lokasinya yang berada di antara China dan India. Menurut kronik China,

penduduk pertama ditemukan pada abad ke-3, dan pada abad ke-13 Bintan berada di bawah kekuasaan Kerajaan Malaka, sebelum jatuh ke Kesultanan Johor di abad ke-15 dan menjadi pusat politik dan budaya kerajaan. Namun seiring perdagangan yang semakin maju di pulau ini, dan meningkatnya kendali atas kekayaan pulau ini, perselisihan pun terjadi antara orang-orang Melayu dan Bugis, serta pertempuran yang terjadi di darat dan laut melawan pasukan invasi asing.

Peran penting Bintan sebagai pelabuhan perdagangan mulai menurun pada abad ke-18, saat berada di bawah kekuasaan Belanda hingga masa kemerdekaan Indonesia. Campuran etnis yang mendiami Bintan kini adalah melting pot sesungguhnya dari Melayu, China, Bugis, dan keturunan suku pelaut asli Bintan yang bersama-sama membentuk budaya lokal yang beragam.

Sebelum mengunjungi pantai-pantai yang luar biasa, saya ingin memahami menariknya perpaduan budaya lokal yang berakar dari sejarah tadi. Karena itu, mulailah perjalanan saya kira-kira setengah jam perjalanan dari bandara, berkeliling Kota Senggarang yang di dalamnya, sebagian besar rumah berdiri di atas air dengan bentuk rumah

Nirwana Gardens’ Kelong Seafood Restaurant serves up fresh Bintan seafood with panoramic views of the South China Sea. Savour signature dishes such as gong-gong (sea snails), black pepper crab and stir-fried butter prawns prepared in a unique blend of Chinese and Indonesian culinary styles. Built on stilts just above the sea, the restaurant at sunset is an unforgettable dining experience. www.nirwanagardens.com

Restoran Makanan Laut Kelong di Nirwana Gardens menyajikan segarnya makanan laut Bintan dengan pemandangan Laut China Selatan. Nikmati hidangan khas seperti gong- gong (siput laut), kepiting lada hitam, dan udang goreng mentega yang dimasak dengan perpaduan unik gaya kuliner China dan Indonesia. Dibangun menggunakan jangkungan di atas laut, restoran ini memungkinkan makan malam yang tak terlupakan kala matahari terbenam.

5 Senses – TasteKELONG SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

Gunung Bintan (Bintan Mountain) in the distance; an ideal place for trekking and hiking.

132 Travel | Bintan

Senggarang terdiri atas beraneka ragam candi, di antaranya Kuil Matahari Te Kong, Kuil Marco, Kuil Tay Ti Kong, beserta sebuah Candi Buddha di belakangnya. Sebagian besar candi di situ telah berusia kira-kira 300 tahun, seusia dengan komunitas etnis Tionghoa di sekitarnya. Di belakang Kuil Matahari Te Kong, Anda akan melihat sebuah patung Buddha besar dan sejumlah patung lainnya yang telah dimakan waktu. Berkeliling di wilayah nan elok ini merupakan perkenalan yang apik dengan kehidupan dan komunitas Tionghoa lokal di Bintan.

Dari Senggarang, kami menyewa perahu kecil dari nelayan setempat untuk mencapai Pulau Penyengat yang penuh dengan nilai historis. Pulau kecil ini menyimpan banyak reruntuhan dan bukti sejarah Kesultanan Johor. Pulau tersebut sempat menjadi ibu kota kerajaan, namun mengalami kejatuhan semasa Portugis menguasai Malaka. Di sepanjang 2,5 kilometer persegi, hanya becaklah transportasi yang tersedia di pulau ini. Angin sepoi-sepoi yang berembus dari belakang becak merupakan pengalaman khas Indonesia, dan di pulau

panggung. Pintu masuk menuju rumah-rumah tersebut dapat dilalui dari depan lewat darat—biasanya dengan jembatan dari papan kayu—atau dari belakang lewat air. Pemandu lokal saya, Maradu, bercerita tentang bagian belakang rumah yang berfungsi sebagai tempat pijakan saat menaiki dan menuruni sampan, sejenis “taksi air” yang kerap kali digunakan untuk bepergian dari dan ke Ibu Kota Tanjung Pinang, Pulau Penyengat, atau pulau sekitar lainnya.

Di kota tersebut, terdapat sejumlah candi Buddha, dengan Banyan Tree Temple sebagai wihara yang paling dihormati. Candi ini betul-betul memiliki pohon beringin yang tumbuh di atasnya. Akarnya yang sudah tua namun kokoh seakan menjerat bangunan berusia 200 tahun di bawahnya. Penduduk setempat yang sudah berumur berkumpul di sini menikmati keteduhan pohon, bersantai dan mengobrol sepanjang sore hari.

Tak jauh dari situ, sebuah candi tampak memukau dengan berhiaskan pola khas Cina, warna cerah, serta pemandangan laut yang mengagumkan. Kompleks Candi

The big Buddha statue, which you can find inside the Senggarang Temple Complex.

Locals often just hang out and relax to beat the heat in front of the Banyan Tree temple at Senggarang village.

Travel Tips

There is no discernible public transport system on Bintan Island. The best way to get around the island is via taxi or car rental. Taxis are available at resorts as well as at the ferry terminal, ready to take you to other parts of Bintan such as Tanjung Uban, Lobam, Trikora and Tanjung Pinang.

Transportasi umum sedikit sulit di Bintan ini. Cara termudah untuk menjelajahi pulau ini adalah dengan taksi atau menyewa mobil. Taksi yang bisa didapatkan di resor dan terminal feri siap mengantar Anda ke sejumlah tempat seperti Tanjung Uban, Lobam, Trikora dan Tanjung Pinang.

Getting around

133Travel | Bintan

One of the many shops selling dried seafood, which tourists can buy as a souvenir snack for friends or family back home.

An authentic Italian restaurant at Trikora Beach specialising in pizza. All the pizzas are handmade by the Italian owner.

Nasi padang with ayam penyet bakar is one of the many local delicacies that you should try.

The local snack otak-otak, primarily made of seafood and baked over a charcoal fire.

Kemudian kami memutuskan untuk memanfaatkan energi makan siang kami dengan berjalan-jalan di pasar basah khas Belanda, tempat para nelayan sibuk membawa tangkapan mereka sepanjang hari.

yang indah ini, dengan aroma udara laut yang terasa, sungguh luar biasa. Pertama-tama, kami menziarahi makam Raja Ali Haji Fisabilillah (seorang panglima Bugis dan pahlawan nasional yang meninggal dalam pertempuran Malaka melawan Belanda pada 1784 kemudian menjadi nama bandara setempat) dan Raja Hamidah (pencipta dan penulis pertama buku tata bahasa Melayu) beserta makam para bangsawan lainnya. Para penggemar sejarah juga pasti tertarik mengunjungi ujung timur laut pulau ini yang menyimpan banyak peninggalan Islam yang menarik, yang terutama di antaranya adalah Masjid Agung Sultan Riau, dibangun lebih dari 170 tahun yang lalu untuk memperingati pernikahan Raja Ali Haji Fisabillah dan putri Sultan guna menciptakan perdamaian antara orang Melayu dan orang Bugis.

Waktunya makan siang. Kami meninggalkan Pulau Penyengat dan Maradu mengajak saya mencicipi ayam bakar di rumah makan Ayam Penyet di kota. Rumah makan yang tersohor

di antara penduduk setempat ini menyajikan ayam bakar dan goreng, dengan tahu atau tempe goreng berikut lalapan, semuanya makin lezat dengan sambal pedas khas Bintan. Air kelapa segar disajikan sebagai pencuci mulut, sangat cocok untuk mendinginkan tubuh dari panasnya iklim tropis.

Kemudian kami memutuskan untuk memanfaatkan energi makan siang kami dengan berjalan-jalan di pasar basah khas Belanda, tempat para nelayan sibuk membawa tangkapan mereka sepanjang hari. Berbagai makanan laut yang telah dikeringkan juga dijual; oleh-oleh sempurna untuk teman-teman di rumah yang ingin ikut mencicipi cita rasa Bintan.

Nakhoda “taksi air” kami, Pak Said, menyarankan kami pergi ke timur untuk menutup sore, menuju Pantai Trikora di pesisir timur Bintan. Trikora masih sangat sepi dan relatif belum terjamah, dengan garis pantainya yang panjang, berpasir putih,

134 Travel | Bintan

The pristine Trikora Beach during low tide with the evening breeze blowing through the coconut trees along the shore.

Stay at the Bintan Lagoon Resort and wake up early in the morning to enjoy the resort’s private beach. Walk barefoot to feel the softness of the white sand between your toes and take in the early-morning sea breeze and the sunrise – is there any better way to start the day? There are also plenty of beach loungers if you want a slow and easy start. Or head to Trikora Beach, which is virtually deserted and might as well be your own private paradise too.

Menginaplah di Bintan Lagoon Resort dan bangunlah pagi-pagi untuk menikmati pantai pribadi di sini. Berjalanlah bertelanjang kaki untuk merasakan kelembutan pasir putih di sela-sela jemari kaki Anda lalu hiruplah angin laut dan matahari terbit pagi hari—adakah cara yang lebih baik untuk memulai hari? Tersedia pula banyak kursi pantai jika Anda lebih menyukai awal yang santai dan mudah. Atau pergilah ke Pantai Trikora, yang masih cukup sepi dan bisa menjadi surga pribadi Anda.

5 Senses – TouchPRIVATE BEACHES

135Travel | Bintan

membentang dari selatan ke utara. Di sela-sela pantainya yang panjang terdapat desa-desa nelayan dan saya mendapati salah satu pembuat perahu terkenal di sini yang tengah bekerja keras di pinggir lautan. Perpaduan antara bakat seniman dan juga ahli kelautan, dia membuat perahu hanya menggunakan peranti untuk memotong dan mengetam kayu, membuat lekukan yang anggun dari balok-balok besar hanya berdasarkan perasaan dan pengalaman.

Semakin ke utara, kami berjumpa dengan Orang Laut yang nomaden di sebuah desa kecil pinggir laut tempat mereka bermalam untuk menghindari badai. Sehari-harinya, keluarga Orang Laut tinggal di perahu kayu mereka, memasak dan makan sambil berpindah dari pulau ke pulau, menangkap ikan menggunakan perangkat tradisional untuk mencari nafkah. Mereka masih sangat konservatif dan cukup pemalu, jadi berkunjunglah dengan rasa hormat jika Anda bertemu dengan komunitas ini.

Wilayah paling utara pulau ini telah diubah menjadi area wisata tropis di mana pantainya yang indah dengan kesegaran udara lautnya semakin memesona dengan sejumlah resor mewah pilihan yang populer. Dengan resor-resor baru yang kini tengah dibangun, investasi yang telah masuk akan membangun Bintan menjadi pusat liburan Indonesia berikutnya. Saya berhasil

menyaksikan matahari terbenam spektakuler dari resor Nirwana Gardens, dan seiring makin tenggelamnya matahari di bawah cakrawala, saya merenungkan perjalanan ini dan merasa sangat bersyukur atas pulau indah yang penuh nilai historis dan juga kejutan ini. Bintan, tentunya, tak mudah dilupakan.

The base-camp office (kelong style) where all visitors start their journey for their Mangrove Discovery day or night tour.

Tourists on board one of the Mangrove Discovery tour speedboats.

This two-hour eco adventure will take you on a back-to-nature encounter with the wonders of Bintan Resort’s mangrove forests. These forests protect the coast from erosion whilst trapping sediment in water flowing off the land, helping to create the clear blue coastal waters. Journey along the Sebung River and observe colourful flowers and fruits that stand out against a backdrop of mangrove trees, and a variety of exotic wildlife, including shy macaque and silvered leaf monkeys, monitor lizards and snakes. Birds, such as the kingfisher and purple heron, can be heard calling and are seen fishing along the riverbanks. www.bintan-resorts.com

Eco-adventure selama 2 jam ini akan mengantarkan Anda bertemu kembali dengan alam melalui keajaiban hutan bakau Bintan Resort. Hutan bakau ini melindungi pantai dari erosi dengan menjaga sedimen dalam air meninggalkan tanah serta membantu pembentukan perairan pesisir yang biru jernih. Jelajahilah Sungai Sebung lalu amati beragam bunga dan buah warna-warni yang tampak mencolok dengan latar belakang pepohonan bakau, termasuk satwa liar eksotis, di antaranya kera makaka dan lutung kelabu yang pemalu, biawak, serta ular. Burung, seperti pekakak dan kuntul ungu, terdengar berkicau dan terlihat menangkap ikan di sepanjang tepi sungai.

5 Senses – SightMANGROVE DISCOVERY TOUR

• Jakarta

• Tanjung Pinang

JAKARTA TO TANJUNG PINANG

Flight Time 1 hour, 20 minutes

Frequency 7 flights per week

136 Travel | Bintan

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