Crossbody Purse with Zipper

Materials:1/2 yard each of two different fabrics, one for main body and a contrast for the lining (and the above-zipper and pocket details)1/2 yard of fusible fleece1 9” all-purpose zipper1 1/4 yards of 1-in wide webbing for straps1/2 to 1 yard of different ribbons and trims2 D-rings or rectangular rings (1”) that will accommodate your straps (at least the size of the webbing or slightly larger)Dritz WashAway Wonder TapeWater-soluble marking penSewing machine, sewing supplies, including a zipper foot and an iron

Cutting the Fabric

Cut your main fabric: 7 3/4” x 19”

Cut your above-the zipper bag fabric (the contrasting print) 7 ¾” x 3 ¼”

Cut the fusible fleece the same dimensions as both fabrics. Fuse it to the back of both pieces of fabric, using the manufacturer’s instructions.

Cut the lining fabric. You’ll have two lining pieces, just as you have two outside bag pieces (the main bag and the above-the zipper fabric).

Cut one lining fabric 7 ¼” x 18 ½”, the other 7 ¼” x 2 ¾”

Cut two pocket pieces, one piece will show on the outside, and the other will be the pocket lining. 7 ¾” x 4 ½”. Cut two of these.

Cut D-ring fabrics into squares of 3 ½”x 3 ½”. Cut two of these.

Outer bag assembly

After you’ve fused your fleece to the wrong side of both outer bag pieces (main body and above-the-zipper), place the piece right sides together along one short side. Using a 5/8” seam allowance from the top edge, stitch on each end of the bag for only 1 inch. Make sure you back stitch at the beginning and end (second photo, below).

This will leave a long opening between the stitched ends. Using a long basting stitch on your machine – and not back stitching – sew between the previous stitching to temporarily stitch the opening closed.

Now, press the seams open.

Zipper Installation

Prepare your zipper to be about 1/2in smaller than your finished bag, from the top of the zipper pull to where the zipper stops. You may have to stitch a new “stop” yourself and trim off the end. Research “how to shorten a zipper” if needed.

Stick the Wonder Tape to the top of the zipper, along both sides. You’ll pull off the second part of the double-sided tape in a moment, but set the zipper aside for now.

Turn your bag over so the right side is facing up. With a water-soluble marking tool, draw a line 3/8” from the seam you just basted, all the way around.

Remove the paper from the second sticky side of the Wonder Under tape and place the zipper on the wrong side of the bag (the side with the fusible fleece), with the zipper pull facing down. Make sure the zipper teeth are centered with the seam.

Now, snap on your zipper foot, and stitch on the line you drew, from the right side. When you’re finished, the zipper will be stitched in place. Open the basting stitches with your seam ripper and admire your work.

Pocket assembly

Place the pocket pieces on top of each other, right sides together. Sew with a ¼” seam allowance along one long edge. Open and press, then fold along the seam so wrong sides are together.

Sew some trim along the top, folded edge. I used 7/8”-wide jacquard ribbons and some ric rac, and then I embellished the flowers on the pocket with some hot-fix crystals.

Zigzag stitch along the bottom edge so it won’t fray, and press it under by 3/8”.

Ring Tabs for Straps

For the ring holders, use your 3 ½”  squares and fold the fabric in half, wrong sides together, parallel to the width. Either crease it or press – mark the center. Open it back up.

Now, place the fabric wrong-side up. Fold the bottom up toward the center crease, and press, as shown in photo 2 below. Next, fold the top toward the center and press.

Finally, fold the fabric in half, so the raw edges are enclosed on the inside, as shown in photo 3 below.

Stitch along both sides, about 1/8” from the edge, as shown in photo 4 below.

Loop through your D-rings, folding the holders in half and basting them about 1” from the edge at the top of your bag. You’ll want to baste with a ¼” seam allowance.

You can add some ribbon below the zipper if you want!

Now fold your bag in half, with wrong sides together, bringing the bottom up toward the top of the bag with the ring holders. Draw a line at the fold (first photo below).

Unfold the bag, and place your pocket face up on the front, lining up the bottom of the pocket (keeping the edge folded under) with the fold line.

Top stitch in place.

Stitch a vertical line down the center to divide it into two pockets, making sure to back stitch at the beginning and end. This is now perfect for holding a cell phone!

Next – and this is important – open your zipper! Otherwise you won’t be able to turn it right side out later.

With right sides facing, sew the three open sides of your bag with a 3/8” seam allowance, and clip the corners so your bag will look neat when you’re finished!

Sew the Bag Lining

Sew the lining the same way as you did the front of the bag – but this time sew 3/4” in from each side with a 5/8” seam allowance from the top. However, you don’t have to baste it closed this time.

Press the seams open as shown in the first photo below, and fold the lining so both short sides meet at the top, with right sides facing. Sew all three open ends with a 3/8” seam allowance and clip the corners.

Now turn the lining right-side out, but keep the front of the bag wrong-side out.

Your lining is smaller than your outer bag, but this is correct! Place your main bag inside the lining (it will kind of bunch up inside) so wrong sides are together. Line everything up at the zipper opening – don’t worry about the rest of the bag lining up now – and slip-stitch the lining to the bag at the zipper opening along both sides, as shown below.

Turn your bag right side out and press (but be careful not to press on any of the trim or plastic zipper, because they might melt)

Because this is a crossbody purse, decide where you would like the bag to hang. Measure this length and add about 2” – then cut the webbing strap to that length.

Loop the webbing onto the D-ring and stitch in place at both ends.