a bend in the river

8/13/2019 A Bend in the River

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INTRODUCTION BY ELIZABETH HARDWICK

Salim, the narrator ofA Bend in the River, i a !o"n# man from an In$ian famil! of tra$er

lon# rei$ent on the %oat of Central Afri%a, &erha& in 'hat i no' (no'n a Zaire) The !o"n#

man* &la%ement in the 'orl$ i &art of the $ramati% tr"%t"re an$ +iion of the no+el) Afri%a 'am! home, ha$ -een the home of m! famil! for %ent"rie) B"t 'e %ame from the eat %oat an$ that

ma$e a $ifferen%e) The %oat 'a not tr"l! Afri%a) It 'a an Ara-.In$ian./erian./ort"#"ee &la%e,

an$ 'e 'ho li+e$ there 'ere reall! &eo&le of the In$ian O%ean)0 In the no+el, Salim ha left the

%oat to ma(e hi 'a! in the interior, there to ta(e on a mall tra$in# ho& of thi an$ that,

"n$rie, ol$ to the nati+e) The &la%e i a -en$ in the ri+er01 it i Afri%a) There are other In$ian

familie in the to'n, -"t the $i&la%ement of Salim i to ome $e#ree a &art of the $i&la%ement of

the %o"ntr!)

The time i &ot.%olonial, the time of In$e&en$en%e) The E"ro&ean ha+e 'ith$ra'n or -een

for%e$ to 'ith$ra', an$ the %ene i one of %hao, +iolent %han#e, 'arrin# tri-e, i#noran%e,

iolation, &o+ert!, an$ a la%( of &re&aration for the mo$ern 'orl$ the! ha+e entere$, or &artiall!

a"me$ a a ort of $e%oration) The -lin$ a"ran%e of the %olonial a$minitration, 'ith it r"le,

it %ommer%ial e2&loitation of the a+aila-le reo"r%e, it a+en"e an$ han$ome ho"e an$ %l"-

for the &lea"re of the forei#n ettler, ha #i+en 'a! to the -lin$in# %onfla#ration in o man! of

the ne'l! in$e&en$ent tate) Here the &o'er i %"rrentl! in the han$ of the /rei$ent, a tri-al

'arrior threatene$ -! the am-ition of other 'arrior of other tri-e)

A Bend in the Riveri a tor! of hitori%al "&hea+al an$ o%ial -rea($o'n) The %olliion of

%"lt"re in In$ia, Ilam, Afri%a, So"th Ameri%a, an$ the Cari--ean inform the e2traor$inar! %o&e

of Nai&a"l* %reati+e ima#ination in fi%tion an$ in hi -oo( of tra+el a-o"t the 'orl$, 3o"rne! o

an#"lar an$ &eronal the! %annot -e %laifie$ a tra+el -oo() He 'a -orn in Trini$a$ in 4567,-orn into a Hin$" famil! that ha$ %ome #eneration -a%( a in$ent"re$ er+ant from the

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"-%ontinent of In$ia to a tro&i%al ilan$ in the Cari--ean, 'here Hin$" 'ere a minorit!) /erha&

the ha&e of hi +iion o'e omethin# to hi o'n &la%ement in the 'orl$ 8 omethin#, -"t not

e+er!thin#, in%e he i a 'riter of #reat intelle%t"al %"rioit!, $ee& %"lt"re, an$ the mot erio"

(in$ of literar! am-ition) 9rom Trini$a$ he ma$e hi 'a! to O2for$ an$ ha li+e$ in En#lan$ in%e

then, all the 'hile &ro$"%in# ome t'ent!.t'o +ol"me) Hi 'or( #i+e the ene that to him theart of 'ritin# i a +o%ation, a ort of an%tifie$ %allin# rather than a %areer) The -io#ra&hi%al fa%t

%ome to min$ -e%a"e there i a Sa+onarola tonalit! ometime in Nai&a"l* elo:"en%e a-o"t the

$ama#e of entimentalit! an$ fale ho&e) In A Bend in the River, the %ree&in#, "ffo%atin#

%orr"&tion an$ $etr"%ti+ene that a%%om&an! the tri-al %omin# into &o'er or &lottin# for &o'er,

the inta-ilit! of arran#ement, the "na&&eae$ %ro'$ of lon#."fferin# nati+e $e%en$in# "&on

the to'n; all of thi i the lan$%a&e in 'hi%h the no+el &ro%ee$) There are In$ian tra$er an$

&ro&rietor of one -"ine or another, a 'hite E"ro&ean %o"&le, an ol$ Bel#ian &riet of lon#

rei$en%e, Afri%an ee(in# o&&ort"nit!) The no+el i an "n$erta(in# of ome ri( an$ o"t of the

ri( Nai&a"l ha fahione$ a 'or( of intene ima#inati+e for%e)

The /rei$ent; The /rei$ent I ha$ een onl! in &hoto#ra&h 8 firt in arm! "niform, then in

the t!lih hort.lee+e$ 3a%(et an$ %ra+at, an$ then in hi leo&ar$.(in %hief* %a& an$ hi %ar+e$

ti%(, em-lem of hi %hieftain%!) ) ) )0 The m!th.ma(in# of the /rei$ent 'ill %on"me the ne'

nation a he %onoli$ate hi &o'er, hi 'ealth, hi #ran$ioe e2&en$it"re in a mini.%it! to -e

%alle$ the Domain, an$ in the ele+ation of hi -io#ra&h! 'ith tat"e to hi mother, 'ho ha$ -een

a mai$ in a %olonial hotel) A an Afri%an, he 'a -"il$in# a ne' to'n on the ite of 'hat ha$

-een a ri%h E"ro&ean "-"r- 8 -"t 'hat he 'a -"il$in# 'a meant to -e #ran$er) ) ) ) He 'a

%reatin# mo$ern Afri%a) He 'a %reatin# a mira%le that 'o"l$ ato"n$ the ret of the 'orl$)0

One of the %hara%ter in the -oo( i 9ather H"iman, a Bel#ian &riet, 'ho ha 'ith a tirele

o-eion ma$e a m"e"m %olle%tion of nati+e ma( an$ %ar+in#, information on nati+ereli#ion, an$ alo %attere$ reli% of the %olonial &reen%e) 9ather H"iman #oe a-o"t $i##in#

an$ ear%hin# 'ith a ort of nai*+e in$"tr!) He a&&ear :"ite in$ifferent to the $rati% alteration

-ro"#ht a-o"t -! the ne' #o+ernment1 he loo( "&on it a the flo' of time in a moo$ of Thi too

'ill &a) Ne+erthele, he i -r"tall! (ille$ on one of hi e2&e$ition) The %olle%tion 8 the

ri%het &ro$"%t of the foret0 8 i left to $eteriorate an$ to "ffer the &illa#in# of an Ameri%an

a$mirer of &rimiti+e art) The Afri%an %oni$ere$, or 'ere tol$ to %oni$er, the %olle%tion of ma(

an$ %ar+in# an affront to their reli#ion)

Salim i an interetin# first-personnarrator, an$ he oar hi 'a! thro"#h the har(.infete$

'ater of that tr"%t"ral %hoi%e 'itho"t ho'in# "n$"e e2ertion to (ee& afloat) He i eniti+e,

o-er+ant, of a ome'hat melan%hol! in%lination, a &eimim he $oe not attri-"te to to a Hin$"

%on+i%tion a-o"t the +anit! of all h"man en$ea+o"r)0 Intea$ hi &eimim i not a re"lt of

reli#ion, -"t of hi ee(in# to o%%"&! the mi$$le #ro"n$, -et'een a-or&tion in life an$ oarin#

a-o+e the %are of the earth)0 Ne+erthele, he #et aro"n$, $ine o"t, ha an affair, &la! :"ah at

the Helleni% Cl"-) Can+a hoe, hort, ra%(et, to'el aro"n$ m! ne%( 8 it 'a li(e ol$ time on

the %oat)0

At the o&enin# of the tor!, Za-eth, a nati+e 'oman from one of the fihin# +illa#e, %ome

to Salim* ho& to -"! arti%le he 'ill ta(e -a%( to ell to the nati+e, there-! ma(in# her li+in#

a a marchande) Salim a$mire the ener#! that #et her -a%( an$ forth on the ri+er an$ a#ree,

'ith a i#h, 'hen he a( him to ta(e on her on, 9er$inan$, to &la%e him in the l!%


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onl! +e#etation -"t alo the -a%('ar$ne an$ &rimiti+e %on$ition an$ the &rimiti+e &!%holo#!

&erha& of thoe %"t off from the a%%ommo$ation ne%ear! for life in the to'n an$ %itie)>

9er$inan$ 'ill finih the l!%


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CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

by Elizabeth Hardwick ix

ONE The Second Rebellion

TWO The !ew "omain #$

THREE The Bi% &an #'(

9OURBattle ()*

ONE

THE SECOND REBELLION

CHA/TER 4

The 'orl$ i 'hat it i1 men 'ho are nothin#, 'ho allo' themel+e to -e%ome nothin#, ha+e

no &la%e in it)

Na@r"$$in, 'ho ha$ ol$ me the ho& %hea&, $i$n*t thin( I 'o"l$ ha+e it ea! 'hen I too(

o+er) The %o"ntr!, li(e other in Afri%a, ha$ ha$ it tro"-le after in$e&en$en%e) The to'n in theinterior, at the -en$ in the #reat ri+er, ha$ almot %eae$ to e2it1 an$ Na@r"$$in ai$ I 'o"l$ ha+e

to tart from the -e#innin#)

I $ro+e "& from the %oat in m! /e"#eot) That in*t the (in$ of $ri+e !o" %an $o no'a$a! in

Afri%a 8 from the eat %oat ri#ht thro"#h to the %entre) Too man! of the &la%e on the 'a! ha+e

%loe$ $o'n or are f"ll of -loo$) An$ e+en at that time, 'hen the roa$ 'ere more or le o&en, the

$ri+e too( me o+er a 'ee()

It 'an*t onl! the an$ $rift an$ the m"$ an$ the narro', 'in$in#, -ro(en roa$ "& in the

mo"ntain) There 'a all that -"ine at the frontier &ot, all that ha##lin# in the foret o"ti$e

'oo$en h"t that fle' tran#e fla#) I ha$ to tal( m!elf an$ m! /e"#eot &at the men 'ith #"n

8 3"t to $ri+e thro"#h -"h an$ more -"h) An$ then I ha$ to tal( e+en har$er, an$ he$ a fe'

more -an( note an$ #i+e a'a! more of m! tinne$ foo$, to #et m!elf 8 an$ the /e"#eot 8 o"t

of the &la%e I ha$ tal(e$ " into)

Some of thee &ala+er %o"l$ ta(e half a $a!) The to& man 'o"l$ a( for omethin# :"ite

ri$i%"lo" 8 t'o or three tho"an$ $ollar) I 'o"l$ a! no) He 'o"l$ #o into hi h"t, a tho"#h

there 'a nothin# more to a!1 I 'o"l$ han# aro"n$ o"ti$e, -e%a"e there 'a nothin# ele for me

to $o) Then after an ho"r or t'o I 'o"l$ #o ini$e the h"t, or he 'o"l$ %ome o"ti$e, an$ 'e

'o"l$ ettle for t'o or three $ollar) It 'a a Na@r"$$in ha$ ai$, 'hen I a(e$ him a-o"t +ia

an$ he ha$ ai$ that -an( note 'ere -etter) Yo" %an al'a! #et into thoe &la%e) What i har$ i

to #et o"t) That i a &ri+ate fi#ht) E+er!-o$! ha to fin$ hi o'n 'a!)0



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A I #ot $ee&er into Afri%a 8 the %r"-, the $eert, the ro%(! %lim- "& to the mo"ntain, the

la(e, the rain in the afternoon, the m"$, an$ then, on the other, 'etter i$e of the mo"ntain, the

fern foret an$ the #orilla foret 8 a I #ot $ee&er I tho"#ht; B"t thi i ma$ne) I am #oin# in

the 'ron# $ire%tion) There %an*t -e a ne' life at the en$ of thi)

B"t I $ro+e on) Ea%h $a!* $ri+e 'a li(e an a%hie+ement1 ea%h $a!* a%hie+ement ma$e ithar$er for me to t"rn -a%() An$ I %o"l$n*t hel& thin(in# that that 'a ho' it 'a in the ol$ $a!

'ith the la+e) The! ha$ ma$e the ame 3o"rne!, -"t of %o"re on foot an$ in the o&&oite

$ire%tion, from the %entre of the %ontinent to the eat %oat) The f"rther a'a! the! #ot from the

%entre an$ their tri-al area, the le li(el! the! 'ere to %"t looe from the %ara+an an$ r"n -a%(

home, the more ner+o" the! -e%ame of the tran#e Afri%an the! a' a-o"t them, "ntil at the en$,

on the %oat, the! 'ere no tro"-le at all, an$ 'ere &oiti+el! an2io" to te& into the -oat an$ -e

ta(en to afe home a%ro the ea) Li(e the la+e far from home, I -e%ame an2io" onl! to arri+e)

The #reater the $i%o"ra#ement of the 3o"rne!, the (eener I 'a to &re on an$ em-ra%e m! ne'

life)

When I arri+e$ I fo"n$ that Na@r"$$in ha$n*t lie$) The &la%e ha$ ha$ it tro"-le; the to'n at

the -en$ in the ri+er 'a more than half $etro!e$) What ha$ -een the E"ro&ean "-"r- near the

ra&i$ ha$ -een -"rnt $o'n, an$ -"h ha$ #ro'n o+er the r"in1 it 'a har$ to $itin#"ih 'hat

ha$ -een #ar$en from 'hat ha$ -een treet) The offi%ial an$ %ommer%ial area near the $o%( an$

%"tom ho"e "r+i+e$, an$ ome rei$ential treet in the %entre) B"t there 'an*t m"%h ele)

E+en the Afri%an cit+s'ere inha-ite$ onl! in %orner, an$ in $e%a! ele'here, 'ith man! of the

lo', -o2.li(e %on%rete ho"e in &ale -l"e or &ale #reen a-an$one$, h"n# 'ith :"i%(.#ro'in#,

:"i%(.$!in# tro&i%al +ine, mattin# of -ro'n an$ #reen)

Na@r"$$in* ho& 'a in a mar(et :"are in the %ommer%ial area) It melt of rat an$ 'a fall

of $"n#, -"t it 'a inta%t) I ha$ -o"#ht Na@r"$$in* to%( 8 -"t there 'a none of that) I ha$ alo-o"#ht the #oo$'ill 8 -"t that 'a meanin#le, -e%a"e o man! of the Afri%an ha$ #one -a%(

to the -"h, to the afet! of their +illa#e, 'hi%h la! "& hi$$en an$ $iffi%"lt %ree()

After m! an2iet! to arri+e, there 'a little for me to $o) B"t I 'a not alone) There 'ere other

tra$er, other forei#ner1 ome of them ha$ -een there ri#ht thro"#h the tro"-le) I 'aite$ 'ith

them) The &ea%e hel$) /eo&le -e#an %omin# -a%( to the to'n1 the cite!ar$ fille$ "&) /eo&le

-e#an nee$in# the #oo$ 'hi%h 'e %o"l$ "&&l!) An$ lo'l! -"ine tarte$ "& a#ain)

Za-eth 'a amon# the earliet of m! re#"lar %"tomer) She 'a a marchande8 not a

mar(et 'oman, -"t a retailer in a mall 'a!) She -elon#e$ to a fihin# %omm"nit!, almot a little

tri-e, an$ e+er! month or o he %ame from her +illa#e to the to'n to -"! her #oo$ 'holeale)

9rom me he -o"#ht &en%il an$ %o&!-oo(, ra@or -la$e, !rin#e, oa& an$ tooth&ate an$

tooth-r"he, %loth, &lati% to!, iron &ot an$ al"min"m &an, enamel &late an$ -ain) Thee

'ere ome of the im&le thin# Za-eth* fiherfol( nee$e$ from the o"ti$e 'orl$, an$ ha$ -een

$oin# 'itho"t $"rin# the tro"-le) Not eential, not l"2"rie1 -"t thin# that ma$e or$inar! life

eaier) The &eo&le here ha$ man! (ill1 the! %o"l$ #et -! on their o'n) The! tanne$ leather, 'o+e

%loth, 'or(e$ iron1 the! hollo'e$ o"t lar#e tree tr"n( into -oat an$ maller one into (it%hen

mortar) B"t to &eo&le loo(in# for a lar#e +eel that 'o"l$n*t taint 'ater an$ foo$, an$ 'o"l$n*t

lea(, ima#ine 'hat a -lein# an enamel -ain 'a

Za-eth (ne' e2a%tl! 'hat the &eo&le of her +illa#e nee$e$ an$ ho' m"%h the! 'o"l$ -e a-leor 'illin# to &a! for it) Tra$er on the %oat =in%l"$in# m! o'n father> "e$ to a! 8 e&e%iall!



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'hen the! 'ere %onolin# themel+e for ome -a$ &"r%hae 8 that e+er!thin# e+ent"all! ha$ it

-"!er) That 'an*t o here) /eo&le 'ere interete$ in ne' thin# 8 li(e the !rin#e, 'hi%h 'ere a

"r&rie to me 8 an$ e+en mo$ern thin#1 -"t their tate ha$ et aro"n$ the firt e2am&le of

thee thin# that the! ha$ a%%e&te$) The! tr"te$ a &arti%"lar $ei#n, a &arti%"lar tra$emar() It 'a

"ele for me to tr! to ell0 an!thin# to Za-eth1 I ha$ to ti%( a far a &oi-le to familiar to%()It ma$e for $"ll -"ine, -"t it a+oi$e$ %om&li%ation) An$ it hel&e$ to ma(e Za-eth the #oo$ an$

$ire%t -"ine'oman that, "n""all! for an Afri%an, he 'a)

She $i$n*t (no' ho' to rea$ an$ 'rite) She %arrie$ her %om&li%ate$ ho&&in# lit in her hea$

an$ he remem-ere$ 'hat he ha$ &ai$ for thin# on &re+io" o%%aion) She ne+er a(e$ for

%re$it 8 he hate$ the i$ea) She &ai$ in %ah, ta(in# the mone! o"t from the +anit! %ae he

-ro"#ht to to'n 'ith her) E+er! tra$er (ne' a-o"t Za-eth* +anit! %ae) It 'an*t that he

$itr"te$ -an(1 he $i$n*t "n$ertan$ them)

I 'o"l$ a! to her, in that mi2e$ ri+er lan#"a#e 'e "e$, One $a!, Beth, ome-o$! 'ill

nat%h !o"r %ae) It in*t afe to tra+el a-o"t 'ith mone! li(e that)0

The $a! that ha&&en, i* Salim, I 'ill (no' the time ha %ome to ta! home)0

It 'a a tran#e 'a! of thin(in#) B"t he 'a a tran#e 'oman)

i*,0 a "e$ -! Za-eth an$ other, 'a hort for miter)0 I 'a miter -e%a"e I 'a a

forei#ner, omeone from the far.off %oat, an$ an En#lih.&ea(er1 an$ I 'a miter in or$er to -e

$itin#"ihe$ from the other rei$ent forei#ner, 'ho 'ere monsie,r) That 'a, of %o"re, -efore

the Bi# an %ame alon# an$ ma$e " all citoyensan$ citoyennes) Whi%h 'a all ri#ht for a 'hile,

"ntil the lie he tarte$ ma(in# " all li+e ma$e the &eo&le %onf"e$ an$ fri#htene$, an$ 'hen a

fetih tron#er than hi 'a fo"n$, ma$e them $e%i$e to &"t an en$ to it all an$ #o -a%( a#ain to

the -e#innin#)

Za-eth* +illa#e 'a onl! a-o"t i2t! mile a'a!) B"t it 'a ome $itan%e off the roa$,'hi%h 'a little more than a tra%(1 an$ it 'a ome mile in from the main ri+er) B! lan$ or -!

'ater it 'a a $iffi%"lt 3o"rne!, an$ too( t'o $a!) B! lan$ $"rin# the rain! eaon it %o"l$ ta(e

three) In the -e#innin# Za-eth %ame -! the lan$ 'a!, tre((in# 'ith her 'omen aitant to the

roa$ an$ 'aitin# there for a +an or tr"%( or -") When the teamer tarte$ "& a#ain, Za-eth

al'a! "e$ the ri+er1 an$ that 'an*t m"%h eaier)

The e%ret %hannel from the +illa#e 'ere hallo', f"ll of na#, h"mmin# 'ith mo:"itoe)

Do'n thee %hannel Za-eth an$ her 'omen &ole$ an$ often &"he$ their $"#o"t to the main

ri+er) There, %loe to the -an(, the! 'aite$ for the teamer, the $"#o"t f"ll of #oo$ 8 ""all!

foo$ 8 to -e ol$ to &eo&le on the teamer an$ the -ar#e the teamer to'e$) The foo$ 'a mainl!

fih or mon(e!, freh or bo,can+8 mo(e$ in the 'a! of the %o"ntr!, 'ith a thi%( -la%( %r"t)

Sometime there 'a a mo(e$ na(e or a mo(e$ mall %ro%o$ile, a -la%( h"n( -arel!

re%o#ni@a-le for 'hat it ha$ -een 8 -"t 'ith 'hite or &ale &in( fleh -elo' the %harre$ %r"t)

When the teamer a&&eare$, 'ith it &aen#er -ar#e in to', Za-eth an$ her 'omen &ole$ or

&a$$le$ o"t to the mi$$le of the ri+er an$ too$ at the e$#e of the teamer %hannel, $riftin# $o'n

'ith the %"rrent) The teamer &ae$1 the $"#o"t ro%(e$ in the 'ell1 an$ then %ame the %riti%al

moment 'hen the $"#o"t an$ the -ar#e %ame %loe to#ether) Za-eth an$ her 'omen thre' ro&e

onto the lo'er teel $e%( of the -ar#e, 'here there 'ere al'a! han$ to #ra- the ro&e an$ tie

them to ome -"l(hea$1 an$ the $"#o"t, from $riftin# $o'ntream an$ a#aint the i$e of the

-ar#e, -e#an mo+in# in the other $ire%tion, 'hile &eo&le on the -ar#e thre' $o'n &ie%e of &a&eror %loth on the fih or the mon(e! the! 'ante$ to -"!)



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Thi atta%hin# of $"#o"t to the mo+in# teamer or -ar#e 'a a re%o#ni@e$ ri+er &ra%ti%e, -"t

it 'a $an#ero") Almot e+er! tri& the teamer ma$e there 'a a re&ort of a $"#o"t -ein#

o+ert"rne$ ome'here alon# the tho"an$.mile ro"te an$ of &eo&le -ein# $ro'ne$) B"t the ri(

'a 'orth ta(in#; after'ar$, 'itho"t la-o"r, a a marchandeellin# #oo$, Za-eth 'a to'e$ "&

the ri+er to the +er! e$#e of the to'n, "n%o"&lin# her $"#o"t -! the r"in of the %athe$ral, a little-efore the $o%(, to a+oi$ the offi%ial there, 'ho 'ere al'a! an2io" to %laim ome ta2) What a

3o"rne! S"%h tro"-le an$ $an#er to ell im&le +illa#e thin#, an$ to ta(e other #oo$ -a%( to the

&eo&le of her +illa#e)

9or a $a! or t'o -efore the teamer %ame there 'a a mar(et an$ a %am& in the o&en &a%e

o"ti$e the $o%( #ate) Za-eth -e%ame &art of thi %am& 'hile he 'a in the to'n) If it raine$ he

le&t in the +eran$ah of a #ro%er! or a -ar1 at a later $ate he &"t "& in an Afri%an lo$#in# ho"e,

-"t in the -e#innin# "%h &la%e $i$n*t e2it) When he %ame to the ho& there 'a nothin# in her

a&&earan%e that &o(e of her $iffi%"lt 3o"rne! or her ni#ht in the o&en) She 'a formall! $ree$,

'ra&&e$ in her %otton in the Afri%an t!le that -! fol$ an$ $ra&e em&hai@e$ the -i#ne of her

-ottom) She 'ore a t"r-an 8 a &ie%e of $o'nri+er t!le1 an$ he ha$ her +anit! %ae 'ith the

%reae$ note he ha$ #ot from &eo&le in her +illa#e an$ &eo&le on the teamer an$ -ar#e) She

ho&&e$, he &ai$1 an$ ome ho"r -efore the teamer aile$ a#ain her 'omen 8 thin, hort, -al$.

loo(in#, an$ in ra##e$ 'or(in# %lothe 8 %ame to ta(e the #oo$ a'a!)

Thi 'a a :"i%(er 3o"rne!, $o'nri+er) B"t it 'a 3"t a $an#ero", 'ith the ame %o"&lin#

an$ "n%o"&lin# of the $"#o"t an$ the -ar#e) In thoe $a! the teamer left the to'n at fo"r in the

afternoon1 o it 'a $ee& ni#ht 'hen Za-eth an$ her 'omen %ame to 'here the! ha$ to %at off

from the teamer) Za-eth too( %are then not to #i+e a'a! the entran%e to her +illa#e) She %at off1

he 'aite$ for the teamer an$ the -ar#e an$ the li#ht to $ia&&ear) Then he an$ her 'omen

&ole$ -a%( "& or $rifte$ $o'n to their e%ret %hannel, an$ their ni#httime la-o"r of &olin# an$&"hin# -elo' the o+erhan#in# tree)

oin# home at ni#ht It 'an*t often that I 'a on the ri+er at ni#ht) I ne+er li(e$ it) I ne+er

felt in %ontrol) In the $ar(ne of ri+er an$ foret !o" %o"l$ -e "re onl! of 'hat !o" %o"l$ ee 8

an$ e+en on a moonli#ht ni#ht !o" %o"l$n*t ee m"%h When !o" ma$e a noie 8 $i&&e$ a &a$$le

in the 'ater 8 !o" hear$ !o"relf a tho"#h !o" 'ere another &eron) The ri+er an$ the foret

'ere li(e &reen%e, an$ m"%h more &o'erf"l than !o") Yo" felt "n&rote%te$, an intr"$er)

In the $a!li#ht 8 tho"#h the %olo"r %o"l$ -e +er! &ale an$ #hotl!, 'ith the heat mit at

time "##etin# a %ol$er %limate 8 !o" %o"l$ ima#ine the to'n -ein# re-"ilt an$ &rea$in#) Yo"

%o"l$ ima#ine the foret -ein# "&roote$, the roa$ -ein# lai$ a%ro %ree( an$ 'am&) Yo"

%o"l$ ima#ine the lan$ -ein# ma$e &art of the &reent; that 'a ho' the Bi# an &"t it later,

offerin# " the +iion of a t'o.h"n$re$.mile in$"trial &ar(0 alon# the ri+er) =B"t he $i$n*t mean

it reall!1 it 'a onl! hi 'ih to a&&ear a #reater ma#i%ian than an! the &la%e ha$ e+er (no'n)> In

$a!li#ht, tho"#h, !o" %o"l$ -elie+e in that +iion of the f"t"re) Yo" %o"l$ ima#ine the lan$ -ein#

ma$e or$inar!, fit for men li(e !o"relf, a mall &art of it ha$ -een ma$e or$inar! for a hort

'hile -efore in$e&en$en%e 8 the +er! &art that 'ere no' in r"in)

B"t at ni#ht, if !o" 'ere on the ri+er, it 'a another thin#) Yo" felt the lan$ ta(in# !o" -a%(

to omethin# that 'a familiar, omethin# !o" ha$ (no'n at ome time -"t ha$ for#otten or

i#nore$, -"t 'hi%h 'a al'a! there) Yo" felt the lan$ ta(in# !o" -a%( to 'hat 'a there a

h"n$re$ !ear a#o, to 'hat ha$ -een there al'a!)



8/165

What 3o"rne! Za-eth ma$e It 'a a tho"#h he %ame o"t ea%h time from her hi$$en &la%e

to nat%h from the &reent =or the f"t"re> ome &re%io" %ar#o to ta(e -a%( to her &eo&le 8 thoe

ra@or -la$e, for intan%e, to -e ta(en o"t from their &a%(et an$ ol$ one -! one, mira%le of metal

8 %ar#o that -e%ame more &re%io" the f"rther he #ot from the to'n, the nearer he #ot to her

fihin# +illa#e, the tr"e, afe 'orl$, &rote%te$ from other men -! foret an$ %lo##e$."& 'ater'a!)An$ &rote%te$ in other 'a! a 'ell) E+er! man here (ne' that he 'a 'at%he$ from a-o+e -! hi

an%etor, li+in# fore+er in a hi#her &here, their &aa#e on earth not for#otten, -"t eentiall!

&reer+e$, &art of the &reen%e of the foret) In the $ee&et foret 'a the #reatet e%"rit!) That

'a the e%"rit! that Za-eth left -ehin$, to #et her &re%io" %ar#o1 that 'a the e%"rit! to 'hi%h

he ret"rne$)

No one li(e$ #oin# o"ti$e hi territor!) B"t Za-eth tra+elle$ 'itho"t fear1 he %ame an$ 'ent

'ith her +anit! %ae an$ no one molete$ her) She 'a not an or$inar! &eron) In a&&earan%e he

'a not at all li(e the &eo&le of o"r re#ion) The! 'ere mall an$ li#ht an$ +er! -la%() Za-eth 'a

a -i# 'oman 'ith a %o&&er! %om&le2ion1 there 'ere time 'hen thi %o&&er #lo', e&e%iall! on

her %hee(-one, loo(e$ li(e a (in$ of ma(e"&) There 'a omethin# ele a-o"t Za-eth) She ha$ a

&e%ial mell) It 'a tron# an$ "n&leaant, an$ at firt I tho"#ht 8 -e%a"e he %ame from a

fihin# +illa#e 8 that it 'a an ol$ an$ $ee& mell of fih) Then I tho"#ht it ha$ to $o 'ith her

retri%te$ +illa#e $iet) B"t the &eo&le of Za-eth* tri-e 'hom I met $i$n*t mell li(e Za-eth)

Afri%an noti%e$ her mell) If the! %ame into the ho& 'hen Za-eth 'a there the! 'rin(le$ their

noe an$ ometime the! 'ent a'a!)

ett!, the half.Afri%an -o! 'ho ha$ #ro'n "& in m! famil!* ho"e on the %oat an$ ha$

%ome to 3oin me, ett! ai$ that Za-eth* mell 'a tron# eno"#h to (ee& mo:"itoe a'a!) I

tho"#ht m!elf that it 'a thi mell that (e&t men a'a! from Za-eth, in &ite of her flehine

='hi%h the men here li(e$> an$ in &ite of her +anit! %ae 8 -e%a"e Za-eth 'an*t marrie$ an$,o far a I (ne', li+e$ 'ith no man)

B"t the mell 'a meant to (ee& &eo&le at a $itan%e) It 'a ett! 8 learnin# lo%al %"tom

fat 8 'ho tol$ me that Za-eth 'a a ma#i%ian, an$ 'a (no'n in o"r re#ion a a ma#i%ian) Her

mell 'a the mell of her &rote%tin# ointment) Other 'omen "e$ &erf"me an$ %ent to attra%t1

Za-eth* ointment re&elle$ an$ 'arne$) She 'a &rote%te$) She (ne' it, an$ other &eo&le (ne' it)

I ha$ treate$ Za-eth o far a a marchandean$ a #oo$ %"tomer) No' that I (ne' that in o"r

re#ion he 'a a &eron of &o'er, a &ro&hete, I %o"l$ ne+er for#et it) So the %harm 'or(e$ on

me a 'ell)

CHA/TER 7

Afri%a 'a m! home, ha$ -een the home of m! famil! for %ent"rie) B"t 'e %ame from the

eat %oat, an$ that ma$e the $ifferen%e) The %oat 'a not tr"l! Afri%an) It 'a an Ara-.In$ian.

/erian./ort"#"ee &la%e, an$ 'e 'ho li+e$ there 'ere reall! &eo&le of the In$ian O%ean) Tr"e

Afri%a 'a at o"r -a%() an! mile of %r"- or $eert e&arate$ " from the "&%o"ntr! &eo&le1 'e

loo(e$ eat to the lan$ 'ith 'hi%h 'e tra$e$ 8 Ara-ia, In$ia, /eria) Thee 'ere alo the lan$



9/165

of o"r an%etor) B"t 'e %o"l$ no lon#er a! that 'e 'ere Ara-ian or In$ian or /erian1 'hen

'e %om&are$ o"rel+e 'ith thee &eo&le, 'e felt li(e &eo&le of Afri%a)

! famil! 'a "lim) B"t 'e 'ere a &e%ial #ro"&) We 'ere $itin%t from the Ara- an$

other "lim of the %oat1 in o"r %"tom an$ attit"$e 'e 'ere %loer to the Hin$" of

north'etern In$ia, from 'hi%h 'e ha$ ori#inall! %ome) When 'e ha$ %ome no one %o"l$ tell me)We 'ere not that (in$ of &eo&le) We im&l! li+e$1 'e $i$ 'hat 'a e2&e%te$ of ", 'hat 'e ha$

een the &re+io" #eneration $o) We ne+er a(e$ 'h!1 'e ne+er re%or$e$) We felt in o"r -one

that 'e 'ere a +er! ol$ &eo&le1 -"t 'e eeme$ to ha+e no mean of #a"#in# the &ain# of time)

Neither m! father nor m! #ran$father %o"l$ &"t $ate to their torie) Not -e%a"e the! ha$

for#otten or 'ere %onf"e$1 the &at 'a im&l! the &at)

I remem-er hearin# from m! #ran$father that he ha$ on%e hi&&e$ a -oatf"l of la+e a a

%ar#o of r"--er) He %o"l$n*t tell me 'hen he ha$ $one thi) It 'a 3"t there in hi memor!,

floatin# aro"n$, 'itho"t $ate or other ao%iation, a an "n""al e+ent in an "ne+entf"l life) He

$i$n*t tell it a a &ie%e of 'i%(e$ne or tri%(er! or a a 3o(e1 he 3"t tol$ it a omethin# "n""al

that he ha$ $one 8 not hi&&in# the la+e, -"t $e%ri-in# them a r"--er) An$ 'itho"t m! o'n

memor! of the ol$ man* tor! I "&&oe that 'o"l$ ha+e -een a &ie%e of hitor! lot fore+er) I

-elie+e, from m! later rea$in#, that the i$ea of r"--er 'o"l$ ha+e o%%"rre$ to m! #ran$father at

the time, -efore the 9irt Worl$ War, 'hen r"--er -e%ame -i# -"ine 8 an$ later a -i# %an$al

8 in %entral Afri%a) So that fa%t are (no'n to me 'hi%h remaine$ hi$$en or "ninteretin# to m!

#ran$father)

Of that 'hole &erio$ of "&hea+al in Afri%a 8 the e2&"lion of the Ara-, the e2&anion of

E"ro&e, the &ar%ellin# o"t of the %ontinent 8 that i the onl! famil! tor! I ha+e) That 'a the ort

of &eo&le 'e 'ere) All that I (no' of o"r hitor! an$ the hitor! of the In$ian O%ean I ha+e #ot

from -oo( 'ritten -! E"ro&ean) If I a! that o"r Ara- in their time 'ere #reat a$+ent"rer an$'riter1 that o"r ailor #a+e the e$iterranean the lateen ail that ma$e the $i%o+er! of the

Ameri%a &oi-le1 that an In$ian &ilot le$ a%o $a ama from Eat Afri%a to Cali%"t1 that the

+er! 'or$ che,e'a firt "e$ -! o"r /erian mer%hant 8 if I a! thee thin# it i -e%a"e I

ha+e #ot them from E"ro&ean -oo() The! forme$ no &art of o"r (no'le$#e or &ri$e) Witho"t

E"ro&ean, I feel, all o"r &at 'o"l$ ha+e -een 'ahe$ a'a!, li(e the %"ff mar( of fihermen on

the -ea%h o"ti$e o"r to'n)

There 'a a to%(a$e on thi -ea%h) The 'all 'ere of -ri%() It 'a a r"in 'hen I 'a a -o!,

an$ in tro&i%al Afri%a, lan$ of im&ermanent -"il$in#, it 'a li(e a rare &ie%e of hitor!) It 'a in

thi to%(a$e that the la+e 'ere (e&t after the! ha$ -een mar%he$ $o'n from the interior in the

%ara+an1 there the! 'aite$ for the $ho' to ta(e them a%ro the ea) B"t if !o" $i$n*t (no', then

the &la%e 'a nothin#, 3"t fo"r %r"m-lin# 'all in a &i%t"re.&ot%ar$ ettin# of -ea%h an$ %o%on"t

tree)

On%e the Ara- ha$ r"le$ here1 then the E"ro&ean ha$ %ome1 no' the E"ro&ean 'ere a-o"t

to #o a'a!) B"t little ha$ %han#e$ in the manner or min$ of men) The fihermen* -oat on that

-ea%h 'ere till &ainte$ 'ith lar#e e!e on the -o' for #oo$ l"%(1 an$ the fihermen %o"l$ #et

+er! an#r!, e+en m"r$ero", if ome +iitor trie$ to &hoto#ra&h them 8 trie$ to ro- them of their

o"l) /eo&le li+e$ a the! ha$ al'a! $one1 there 'a no -rea( -et'een &at an$ &reent) All that

ha$ ha&&ene$ in the &at 'a 'ahe$ a'a!1 there 'a al'a! onl! the &reent) It 'a a tho"#h, a

a re"lt of ome $it"r-an%e in the hea+en, the earl! mornin# li#ht 'a al'a! re%e$in# into the$ar(ne, an$ men li+e$ in a &er&et"al $a'n)



10/165

The la+er! of the eat %oat 'a not li(e the la+er! of the 'et %oat) No one 'a hi&&e$

off to &lantation) ot of the &eo&le 'ho left o"r %oat 'ent to Ara-ian home a $ometi%

er+ant) Some -e%ame mem-er of the famil! the! ha$ 3oine$1 a fe' -e%ame &o'erf"l in their

o'n ri#ht) To an Afri%an, a %hil$ of the foret, 'ho ha$ mar%he$ $o'n h"n$re$ of mile from the

interior an$ 'a far from hi +illa#e an$ tri-e, the &rote%tion of a forei#n famil! 'a &refera-le to-ein# alone amon# tran#e an$ "nfrien$l! Afri%an) Thi 'a one reaon 'h! the tra$e 'ent on

lon# after it ha$ -een o"tla'e$ -! the E"ro&ean &o'er1 an$ 'h!, at the time 'hen the E"ro&ean

'ere $ealin# in one (in$ of r"--er, m! #ran$father %o"l$ till o%%aionall! $eal in another) Thi

'a alo the reaon 'h! a e%ret la+er! %ontin"e$ on the %oat "ntil the other $a!) The la+e, or

the &eo&le 'ho mi#ht -e %oni$ere$ la+e, 'ante$ to remain a the! 'ere)

In m! famil!* %om&o"n$ there 'ere t'o la+e familie, an$ the! ha$ -een there for at leat

three #eneration) The lat thin# the! 'ante$ to hear 'a that the! ha$ to #o) Offi%iall! thee

&eo&le 'ere onl! er+ant) B"t the! 'ante$ it (no'n 8 to other Afri%an, an$ to &oor Ara- an$

In$ian 8 that the! 'ere reall! la+e) It 'an*t that the! 'ere &ro"$ of la+er! a a %on$ition1

'hat the! 'ere fier%e a-o"t 'a their &e%ial %onne%tion 'ith a famil! of re&"te) The! %o"l$ -e

+er! ro"#h 'ith &eo&le the! %oni$ere$ maller fr! than the famil!)

When I 'a !o"n# I 'o"l$ -e ta(en for 'al( in the narro' 'hite.'alle$ lane of the ol$ &art

of the to'n, 'hi%h 'a 'here o"r ho"e 'a) I 'o"l$ -e -athe$ an$ $ree$1 the! 'o"l$ &"t (ohl

on m! e!e an$ han# a #oo$.l"%( %harm aro"n$ m! ne%(1 an$ then "tafa, one of o"r ol$ men,

'o"l$ hoit me on hi ho"l$er) That 'a ho' I too( m! 'al(; "tafa $i&la!in# me on hi

ho"l$er, $i&la!in# the 'orth of o"r famil!, an$ at the ame time $i&la!in# hi o'n tr"te$

&oition in o"r famil!) There 'ere ome -o! 'ho ma$e a &oint of ta"ntin# ") "tafa, 'hen 'e

ran into thee -o!, 'o"l$ et me $o'n, en%o"ra#e me to &ea( in"lt, 'o"l$ a$$ to thee in"lt

himelf, 'o"l$ en%o"ra#e me to fi#ht, an$ then, 'hen thin# -e%ame too hot for me, 'o"l$ lift meo"t of rea%h of the -o!* feet an$ fit an$ &la%e me a#ain on hi ho"l$er) An$ 'e 'o"l$

%ontin"e o"r 'al()

Thi tal( of "tafa an$ Ara-ia an$ $ho' an$ la+e mi#ht o"n$ li(e omethin# o"t of the

Arabian !i%hts) B"t 'hen I thin( of "tafa, an$ e+en 'hen I hear the 'or$ la+e,0 I thin( of the

:"alor of o"r famil! %om&o"n$, a mi2t"re of %hool !ar$ an$ -a%( !ar$; all thoe &eo&le,

omeone al'a! hrie(in#, :"antitie of %lothe han#in# on the line or &rea$ o"t on the

-lea%hin# tone, the o"r mell of thoe tone r"nnin# into the mell of the latrine an$ the -arre$.

off "rinal %orner, &ile of $irt! enamel an$ -ra $ihe on the 'ahin#."& tan$ in the mi$$le of

the !ar$, %hil$ren r"nnin# a-o"t e+er!'here, en$le %oo(in# in the -la%(ene$ (it%hen -"il$in#) I

thin( of a h"--"- of 'omen an$ %hil$ren, of m! iter an$ their familie, the er+ant 'omen an$

their familie, -oth i$e a&&arentl! in %ontant %om&etition1 I thin( of :"arrel in the famil!

room, %om&etiti+e :"arrel in the er+ant* :"arter) There 'ere too man! of " in the mall

%om&o"n$) We $i$n*t 'ant all thoe &eo&le in the er+ant* :"arter) B"t the! 'eren*t or$inar!

er+ant, an$ there 'a no :"etion of #ettin# ri$ of them) We 'ere t"%( 'ith them)

That 'a ho' it 'a on the eat %oat) The la+e %o"l$ ta(e o+er, an$ in more than one 'a!)

The &eo&le in o"r er+ant ho"e 'ere no lon#er &"re Afri%an) It 'an*t a%(no'le$#e$ -! the

famil!, -"t ome'here alon# the line, or at man! &la%e alon# the line, the -loo$ of Aia ha$ -een

a$$e$ to thoe &eo&le) "tafa ha$ the -loo$ of "3arat in hi +ein1 o ha$ ett!, the -o! 'ho

later %ame all the 'a! a%ro the %ontinent to 3oin me) Thi, tho"#h, 'a a tranferrin# of -loo$



11/165

from mater to la+e) With the Ara- on o"r %oat the &ro%e ha$ 'or(e$ the other 'a!) The

la+e ha$ 'am&e$ the mater1 the Ara-ian ra%e of the mater ha$ +irt"all! $ia&&eare$)

On%e, #reat e2&lorer an$ 'arrior, the Ara- ha$ r"le$) The! ha$ &"he$ far into the interior

an$ ha$ -"ilt to'n an$ &lante$ or%har$ in the foret) Then their &o'er ha$ -een -ro(en -!

E"ro&e) Their to'n an$ or%har$ $ia&&eare$, 'allo'e$ "& in -"h) The! %eae$ to -e $ri+en on-! their i$ea of their &oition in the 'orl$, an$ their ener#! 'a lot1 the! for#ot 'ho the! 'ere

an$ 'here the! ha$ %ome from) The! (ne' onl! that the! 'ere "lim1 an$ in the "lim 'a!

the! nee$e$ 'i+e an$ more 'i+e) B"t the! 'ere %"t off from their root in Ara-ia an$ %o"l$ onl!

fin$ their 'i+e amon# the Afri%an 'omen 'ho ha$ on%e -een their la+e) Soon, therefore, the

Ara-, or the &eo&le 'ho %alle$ themel+e Ara-, ha$ -e%ome in$itin#"iha-le from Afri%an)

The! -arel! ha$ an i$ea of their ori#inal %i+ili@ation) The! ha$ the Koran an$ it la'1 the! t"%(

to %ertain fahion in $re, 'ore a %ertain (in$ of %a&, ha$ a &e%ial %"t of -ear$1 an$ that 'a all)

The! ha$ little i$ea of 'hat their an%etor ha$ $one in Afri%a) The! ha$ onl! the ha-it of

a"thorit!, 'itho"t the ener#! or the e$"%ation to -a%( "& that a"thorit!) The a"thorit! of the Ara-

8 'hi%h 'a real eno"#h 'hen I 'a a -o! 8 'a onl! a matter of %"tom) It %o"l$ -e -lo'n

a'a! at an! time) The 'orl$ i 'hat it i)

I 'a 'orrie$ for the Ara-) I 'a alo 'orrie$ for ") Be%a"e, o far a &o'er 'ent, there

'a no $ifferen%e -et'een the Ara- an$ o"rel+e) We 'ere -oth mall #ro"& li+in# "n$er a

E"ro&ean fla# at the e$#e of the %ontinent) In o"r famil! ho"e 'hen I 'a a %hil$ I ne+er hear$ a

$i%"ion a-o"t o"r f"t"re or the f"t"re of the %oat) The a"m&tion eeme$ to -e that thin#

'o"l$ %ontin"e, that marria#e 'o"l$ %ontin"e to -e arran#e$ -et'een a&&ro+e$ &artie, that tra$e

an$ -"ine 'o"l$ #o on, that Afri%a 'o"l$ -e for " a it ha$ -een)

! iter marrie$ in the tra$itional 'a!1 it 'a a"me$ that I, too, 'o"l$ marr! 'hen the

time %ame an$ e2ten$ the life of o"r famil! ho"e) B"t it %ame to me 'hile I 'a :"ite !o"n#, tillat %hool, that o"r 'a! of life 'a anti:"ate$ an$ almot at an en$)

Small thin# %an tart " off in ne' 'a! of thin(in#, an$ I 'a tarte$ off -! the &ota#e

tam& of o"r area) The Britih a$minitration #a+e " -ea"tif"l tam&) Thee tam& $e&i%te$

lo%al %ene an$ lo%al thin#1 there 'a one %alle$ Ara- Dho')0 It 'a a tho"#h, in thoe

tam&, a forei#ner ha$ ai$, Thi i 'hat i mot tri(in# a-o"t thi &la%e)0 Witho"t that tam& of

the $ho' I mi#ht ha+e ta(en the $ho' for #rante$) A it 'a, I learne$ to loo( at them) Whene+er

I a' them tie$ "& at the 'aterfront I tho"#ht of them a omethin# &e%"liar to o"r re#ion, :"aint,

omethin# the forei#ner 'o"l$ remar( on, omethin# not :"ite mo$ern, an$ %ertainl! nothin# li(e

the liner an$ %ar#o hi& that -erthe$ in o"r o'n mo$ern $o%()

So from an earl! a#e I $e+elo&e$ the ha-it of loo(in#, $eta%hin# m!elf from a familiar %ene

an$ tr!in# to %oni$er it a from a $itan%e) It 'a from thi ha-it of loo(in# that the i$ea %ame to

me that a a %omm"nit! 'e ha$ fallen -ehin$) An$ that 'a the -e#innin# of m! ine%"rit!)

I "e$ to thin( of thi feelin# of ine%"rit! a a 'ea(ne, a failin# of m! o'n tem&erament,

an$ I 'o"l$ ha+e -een ahame$ if an!one ha$ fo"n$ o"t a-o"t it) I (e&t m! i$ea a-o"t the f"t"re

to m!elf, an$ that 'a ea! eno"#h in o"r ho"e, 'here, a I ha+e ai$, there 'a ne+er an!thin#

li(e a &oliti%al $i%"ion) ! famil! 'ere not fool) ! father an$ hi -rother 'ere tra$er,

-"inemen1 in their o'n 'a! the! ha$ to (ee& "& 'ith the time) The! %o"l$ ae it"ation1

the! too( ri( an$ ometime the! %o"l$ -e +er! -ol$) B"t the! 'ere -"rie$ o $ee& in their li+e

that the! 'ere not a-le to tan$ -a%( an$ %oni$er the nat"re of their li+e) The! $i$ 'hat the! ha$



12/165

to $o) When thin# 'ent 'ron# the! ha$ the %onolation of reli#ion) Thi 'an*t 3"t a rea$ine

to a%%e&t 9ate1 thi 'a a :"iet an$ &rofo"n$ %on+i%tion a-o"t the +anit! of all h"man en$ea+o"r)

I %o"l$ ne+er rie o hi#h) ! o'n &eimim, m! ine%"rit!, 'a a more terretrial affair) I

'a 'itho"t the reli#io" ene of m! famil!) The ine%"rit! I felt 'a $"e to m! la%( of tr"e

reli#ion, an$ 'a li(e the mall %han#e of the e2alte$ &eimim of o"r faith, the &eimim that%an $ri+e men on to $o 'on$er) It 'a the &ri%e for m! more materialit attit"$e, m! ee(in# to

o%%"&! the mi$$le #ro"n$, -et'een a-or&tion in life an$ oarin# a-o+e the %are of the earth)

If the ine%"rit! I felt a-o"t o"r &oition on the %oat 'a $"e to m! tem&erament, then little

o%%"rre$ to %alm me $o'n) E+ent in thi &art of Afri%a -e#an to mo+e fat) To the north there 'a

a -loo$! re-ellion of an "&.%o"ntr! tri-e 'hi%h the Britih eeme$ "na-le to &"t $o'n1 an$ there

'ere e2&loion of $io-e$ien%e an$ ra#e in other &la%e a 'ell) E+en h!&o%hon$ria% ometime

ha+e real illnee, an$ I $on*t thin( it 'a m! ner+o"ne alone that ma$e me feel that the

&oliti%al !tem 'e ha$ (no'n 'a %omin# to an en$, an$ that 'hat 'a #oin# to re&la%e it 'an*t

#oin# to -e &leaant) I feare$ the lie 8 -la%( men a"min# the lie of 'hite men)

If it 'a E"ro&e that #a+e " on the %oat ome i$ea of o"r hitor!, it 'a E"ro&e, I feel, that

alo intro$"%e$ " to the lie) Thoe of " 'ho ha$ -een in that &art of Afri%a -efore the E"ro&ean

ha$ ne+er lie$ a-o"t o"rel+e) Not -e%a"e 'e 'ere more moral) We $i$n*t lie -e%a"e 'e ne+er

aee$ o"rel+e an$ $i$n*t thin( there 'a an!thin# for " to lie a-o"t1 'e 'ere &eo&le 'ho

im&l! $i$ 'hat 'e $i$) B"t the E"ro&ean %o"l$ $o one thin# an$ a! omethin# :"ite $ifferent1

an$ the! %o"l$ a%t in thi 'a! -e%a"e the! ha$ an i$ea of 'hat the! o'e$ to their %i+ili@ation) It

'a their #reat a$+anta#e o+er ") The E"ro&ean 'ante$ #ol$ an$ la+e, li(e e+er!-o$! ele1 -"t

at the ame time the! 'ante$ tat"e &"t "& to themel+e a &eo&le 'ho ha$ $one #oo$ thin# for

the la+e) Bein# an intelli#ent an$ ener#eti% &eo&le, an$ at the &ea( of their &o'er, the! %o"l$

e2&re -oth i$e of their %i+ili@ation1 an$ the! #ot -oth the la+e an$ the tat"e) Be%a"e the! %o"l$ ae themel+e, the E"ro&ean 'ere -etter e:"i&&e$ to %o&e 'ith

%han#e than 'e 'ere) An$ I a', 'hen I %om&are$ the E"ro&ean 'ith o"rel+e, that 'e ha$

%eae$ to %o"nt in Afri%a, that reall! 'e no lon#er ha$ an!thin# to offer) The E"ro&ean 'ere

&re&arin# to #et o"t, or to fi#ht, or to meet the Afri%an half'a!) We %ontin"e$ to li+e a 'e ha$

al'a! $one, -lin$l!) E+en at thi late ta#e there 'a ne+er an!thin# li(e a &oliti%al $i%"ion in

o"r ho"e or in the ho"e of familie I (ne') The "-3e%t 'a a+oi$e$) I fo"n$ m!elf a+oi$in# it)

I "e$ to #o t'i%e a 'ee( to &la! :"ah in the :"ah %o"rt of m! frien$ In$ar) Hi

#ran$father ha$ %ome from the /"n3a- in In$ia to 'or( on the rail'a! a a %ontra%t la-o"rer) The

ol$ /"n3a-i ha$ $one 'ell) When he ha$ 'or(e$ o"t hi %ontra%t he ha$ ettle$ on the %oat an$

-e%ome a mar(et mone!.len$er, len$in# t'ent! or thirt! hillin# a time to tall.(ee&er in the

mar(et 'ho ran hort an$ $e&en$e$ on thee mall loan to -"! their #oo$) 9or ten hillin# lent

thi 'ee( t'el+e or fifteen ha$ to -e ret"rne$ the ne2t) Not the -et (in$ of -"ine1 -"t an a%ti+e

man =an$ a to"#h man> %o"l$ in%reae hi %a&ital man! time o+er in a !ear) Well, it 'a a er+i%e,

an$ a li+in#) An$ more than a li+in#) The famil! ha$ -e%ome +er! #ran$) The! ha$ -e%ome

mer%hant -an(er in an "noffi%ial 'a!, ta(in# mall &ro&e%tin# %om&anie, ta(in# tra$in#

+ent"re to In$ia an$ Ara-ia an$ the /erian "lf =till in the Ara- $ho' of the &ota#e tam&>)

The famil! li+e$ in a -i# %om&o"n$ in an a&halte$ !ar$) The main ho"e 'a at the far en$1

there 'ere maller ho"e at the i$e for mem-er of the famil! 'ho 'ihe$ to li+e -! themel+e,

other ho"e for the er+ant =&ro&er er+ant, hire.an$.fire &eo&le, not lim&et li(e o"r>1 an$there 'a the :"ah %o"rt) E+er!thin# 'a "rro"n$e$ -! a hi#h o%hre.'ahe$ 'all, an$ there



13/165

'a a main #ate 'ith a 'at%hman) The %om&o"n$ 'a in a ne'er &art of the to'n1 I $i$n*t thin( it

'a &oi-le to -e more e2%l"i+e or &rote%te$)

Ri%h &eo&le ne+er for#et the! are ri%h, an$ I loo(e$ "&on In$ar a a #oo$ on of hi mone!.

len$in# or -an(in# famil!) He 'a han$ome, %aref"l of hi a&&earan%e, an$ li#htl! effeminate,

'ith omethin# -"ttone$ "& in hi e2&reion) I &"t that e2&reion $o'n to hi re#ar$ for hi o'n'ealth an$ alo to hi e2"al an2ietie) I tho"#ht he 'a a #reat -rothel man on the l! an$ li+e$ in

fear of -ein# e2&oe$ or %at%hin# ome $ieae)

We 'ere ha+in# %ol$ oran#e 3"i%e an$ hot -la%( tea after o"r #ame =In$ar 'a alrea$!

%on%erne$ a-o"t hi 'ei#ht>, 'hen he tol$ me he 'a lea+in#) He 'a #oin# a'a!, #oin# to

En#lan$ to a famo" "ni+erit! to $o a three.!ear %o"re) It 'a li(e In$ar, an$ hi famil!, to

anno"n%e im&ortant ne' in thi %a"al 'a!) The ne' $e&ree$ me a little) In$ar %o"l$ $o 'hat

he 'a $oin# not onl! -e%a"e he 'a ri%h =I ao%iate$ #oin# a-roa$ to t"$! 'ith #reat 'ealth>,

-"t alo -e%a"e he ha$ #one ri#ht thro"#h o"r lo%al En#lih.lan#"a#e %olle#e "ntil he 'a

ei#hteen) I ha$ left 'hen I 'a i2teen) Not -e%a"e I 'an*t -ri#ht or $i$n*t ha+e the in%lination,

-"t -e%a"e no one in o"r famil! ha$ ta!e$ at %hool after i2teen)

We 'ere ittin# on the te& of the :"ah %o"rt, in the ha$e) In$ar ai$ in hi :"iet 'a!,

We*re 'ahe$ "& here, !o" (no') To -e in Afri%a !o" ha+e to -e tron#) We*re not tron#) We

$on*t e+en ha+e a fla#)0

He ha$ mentione$ the "nmentiona-le) An$ a oon a he &o(e I a' the 'all of hi

%om&o"n$ a "ele) T'o #eneration ha$ -"ilt 'hat I a'1 an$ I mo"rne$ for that lot la-o"r) A

oon a In$ar &o(e I felt I %o"l$ enter hi min$ an$ ee 'hat he a' 8 the mo%(in# :"alit! of the

#ran$e"r, the #ate an$ the 'at%hman that 'o"l$n*t -e a-le to (ee& o"t the tr"e $an#er)

B"t I #a+e no i#n that I "n$ertoo$ 'hat he 'a tal(in# a-o"t) I -eha+e$ li(e the other 'ho

ha$ inf"riate$ an$ a$$ene$ me -! ref"in# to a%(no'le$#e that %han#e 'a %omin# to o"r &art ofthe 'orl$) An$ 'hen In$ar 'ent on to a(, What are !o" #oin# to $o0 I ai$, a tho"#h I $i$n*t

ee an! &ro-lem, I*ll ta!) I*ll #o into the -"ine)0

It 'an*t tr"e at all) It 'a the o&&oite of 'hat I felt) B"t I fo"n$ that I 'a "n'illin# 8 a

oon a the :"etion ha$ -een &"t to me 8 to a%(no'le$#e m! hel&lene) I intin%ti+el! fell

into the attit"$e of m! famil!) B"t 'ith me the fatalim 'a -o#"1 I %are$ +er! m"%h a-o"t the

'orl$ an$ 'ihe$ to reno"n%e nothin#) All I %o"l$ $o 'a to hi$e from the tr"th) An$ that

$i%o+er! a-o"t m!elf ma$e the 'al( -a%( thro"#h the hot to'n +er! $it"r-in#)

The afternoon "n fell on the oft -la%( a&halt roa$ an$ the tall hi-i%" he$#e) It 'a all o

or$inar!) There 'a a !et no $an#er in the %ro'$, the -ro(en.$o'n treet, the -lan(.'alle$

lane) B"t the &la%e 'a &oione$ for me)

I ha$ an "&tair room in o"r famil! ho"e) It 'a till li#ht 'hen I #ot -a%() I loo(e$ o"t

o+er o"r %om&o"n$, a' the tree an$ #reener! of the nei#h-o"rin# !ar$ an$ o&en &a%e) !

a"nt 'a %allin# to one of her $a"#hter; ome ol$ -ra +ae that ha$ -een ta(en o"t to the !ar$

to -e %o"re$ 'ith lime ha$n*t -een ta(en -a%( in) I loo(e$ at that $e+o"t 'oman, heltere$

-ehin$ her 'all, an$ a' ho' &ett! her %on%ern 'ith the -ra +ae 'a) The thin 'hite'ahe$

'all =thinner than the 'all of the la+e to%(a$e on the -ea%h> &rote%te$ her o little) She 'a o

+"lnera-le 8 her &eron, her reli#ion, her %"tom, her 'a! of life) The :"allin# !ar$ ha$

%ontaine$ it o'n life, ha$ -een it o'n %om&lete 'orl$, for o lon#) Ho' %o"l$ an!one not ta(e it

for #rante$ Ho' %o"l$ an!one to& to a( 'hat it 'a that ha$ reall! &rote%te$ "



14/165

I remem-ere$ the loo( of %ontem&t an$ irritation In$ar ha$ #i+en me) An$ the $e%iion I

%ame to then 'a thi) I ha$ to -rea( a'a!) I %o"l$n*t &rote%t an!one1 no one %o"l$ &rote%t me) We

%o"l$n*t &rote%t o"rel+e1 'e %o"l$ onl! in +ario" 'a! hi$e from the tr"th) I ha$ to -rea( a'a!

from o"r famil! %om&o"n$ an$ o"r %omm"nit!) To ta! 'ith m! %omm"nit!, to &reten$ that I ha$

im&l! to tra+el alon# 'ith them, 'a to -e ta(en 'ith them to $etr"%tion) I %o"l$ -e mater of m!fate onl! if I too$ alone) One ti$e of hitor! 8 for#otten -! ", li+in# onl! in -oo( -! E"ro&ean

that I 'a !et to rea$ 8 ha$ -ro"#ht " here) We ha$ li+e$ o"r li+e in o"r 'a!, $one 'hat 'e ha$

to $o, 'orhi&&e$ o$ an$ o-e!e$ hi %omman$ment) No' 8 to e%ho In$ar* 'or$ 8 another

ti$e of hitor! 'a %omin# to 'ah " a'a!)

I %o"l$ no lon#er "-mit to 9ate) ! 'ih 'a not to -e #oo$, in the 'a! of o"r tra$ition, -"t

to ma(e #oo$) B"t ho' What $i$ I ha+e to offer What talent, 'hat (ill, a&art from the Afri%an

tra$in# (ill of o"r famil! Thi an2iet! -e#an to eat a'a! at me) An$ that 'a 'h!, 'hen

Na@r"$$in ma$e hi offer, of a ho& an$ -"ine in a far.off %o"ntr! that 'a till in Afri%a, I

%l"t%he$ at it)

Na@r"$$in 'a an e2oti% in o"r %omm"nit!) He 'a a man of m! father* a#e, -"t he loo(e$

m"%h !o"n#er an$ 'a alto#ether more a man of the 'orl$) He &la!e$ tenni, $ran( 'ine, &o(e

9ren%h, 'ore $ar( #lae an$ "it ='ith +er! 'i$e la&el, the ti& of 'hi%h %"rle$ $o'n>) He 'a

(no'n amon# " =an$ li#htl! mo%(e$ -ehin$ hi -a%(> for hi E"ro&ean manner, 'hi%h he ha$

&i%(e$ "& not from E"ro&e =he ha$ ne+er -een there>, -"t from a to'n in the %entre of Afri%a

'here he li+e$ an$ ha$ hi -"ine)

an! !ear -efore, follo'in# ome fan%! of hi o'n, Na@r"$$in ha$ %"t $o'n on hi

-"ine on the %oat an$ -e#"n to mo+e inlan$) The %olonial -o"n$arie of Afri%a #a+e an

international fla+o"r to hi o&eration) B"t Na@r"$$in 'a $oin# no more than follo'in# the ol$Ara- tra$in# ro"te to the interior1 an$ he ha$ fet%he$ "& in the %entre of the %ontinent, at the -en$

in the #reat ri+er)

That 'a a far a the Ara- ha$ #ot in the lat %ent"r!) There the! ha$ met E"ro&e,

a$+an%in# from the other $ire%tion) 9or E"ro&e it 'a one little &ro-e) 9or the Ara- of %entral

Afri%a it 'a their all1 the Ara-ian ener#! that ha$ &"he$ them into Afri%a ha$ $ie$ $o'n at it

o"r%e, an$ their &o'er 'a li(e the li#ht of a tar that tra+el on after the tar itelf ha -e%ome

$ea$) Ara- &o'er ha$ +anihe$1 at the -en$ in the ri+er there ha$ #ro'n "& a E"ro&ean, an$ not an

Ara-, to'n) An$ it 'a from that to'n that Na@r"$$in, rea&&earin# amon# " from time to time,

-ro"#ht -a%( hi e2oti% manner an$ tate an$ hi tale of %ommer%ial "%%e)

Na@r"$$in 'a an e2oti%, -"t he remaine$ -o"n$ to o"r %omm"nit! -e%a"e he nee$e$

h"-an$ an$ 'i+e for hi %hil$ren) I al'a! (ne' that in me he a' the &ro&e%ti+e h"-an$ of

one of hi $a"#hter1 -"t I ha$ li+e$ 'ith thi (no'le$#e for o lon# that it $i$n*t em-arra me) I

li(e$ Na@r"$$in) I 'el%ome$ hi +iit, hi tal(, hi +er! alienne a he at $o'ntair in o"r

$ra'in# room or +eran$ah an$ &o(e of the e2%itement of hi far.off 'orl$)

He 'a a man of enth"iam) He relihe$ e+er!thin# he $i$) He li(e$ the ho"e he -o"#ht

=al'a! -ar#ain>, the reta"rant he %hoe, the $ihe he ha$ or$ere$) E+er!thin# 'or(e$ o"t 'ell

for him, an$ hi tale of "nfailin# l"%( 'o"l$ ha+e ma$e him intolera-le if he $i$n*t ha+e the #ift

of $e%ri-in# thin# o 'ell) He ma$e me lon# to $o 'hat he ha$ $one, to -e 'here he ha$ -een) In

ome 'a! he -e%ame m! mo$el)



15/165

He 'a omethin# of a &almit, in a$$ition to e+er!thin# ele, an$ hi rea$in# 'ere +al"e$

-e%a"e he %o"l$ $o them onl! 'hen the moo$ too( him) When I 'a ten or t'el+e he ha$ #i+en

me a rea$in# an$ ha$ een #reat thin# in m! han$) So I re&e%te$ hi 3"$#ment) He a$$e$ to that

rea$in# from time to time) I remem-er one o%%aion e&e%iall!) He 'a on the -ent.'oo$ ro%(er,

ro%(in# "ntea$il! from the e$#e of the %ar&et onto the %on%rete floor) He -ro(e off 'hat he 'aa!in# an$ a(e$ to ee m! han$) He felt the ti& of m! fin#er, -ent m! fin#er, loo(e$ -riefl! at

m! &alm, an$ then let m! han$ #o) He tho"#ht for a little a-o"t 'hat he ha$ een 8 it 'a hi

'a!, thin(in# a-o"t 'hat he ha$ een rather than loo(in# at the han$ all the time 8 an$ he ai$,

Yo" are the mot faithf"l man I (no')0 Thi $i$n*t &leae me1 it eeme$ to me he 'a offerin#

me no life at all) I ai$, Can !o" rea$ !o"r o'n han$ Do !o" (no' 'hat* in tore for !o"0 He

ai$, Don*t I (no', $on*t I (no')0 The tone of hi +oi%e 'a $ifferent then, an$ I a' that thi

man, for 'hom =a%%or$in# to hi tal(> e+er!thin# 'or(e$ o"t -ea"tif"ll!, reall! li+e$ 'ith a +iion

of thin# t"rnin# o"t -a$l!) I tho"#ht; Thi i ho' a man ho"l$ -eha+e1 an$ I felt %loe to him

after that, %loer than I $i$ to mem-er of m! o'n famil!)

Then %ame the %rah 'hi%h ome &eo&le ha$ -een :"ietl! &ro&he!in# for thi "%%ef"l an$

tal(ati+e man) Na@r"$$in* a$o&te$ %o"ntr! -e%ame in$e&en$ent, :"ite "$$enl!, an$ the ne'

from that &la%e for 'ee( an$ month 'a of 'ar an$ (illin#) 9rom the 'a! ome &eo&le tal(e$

!o" mi#ht ha+e -elie+e$ that if Na@r"$$in ha$ -een another (in$ of &eron, if he ha$ -oate$ le

of hi "%%e, $r"n( le 'ine an$ -een more eeml! in hi -eha+io"r, e+ent 'o"l$ ha+e ta(en

another t"rn) We hear$ that he ha$ fle$ 'ith hi famil! to U#an$a) There 'a a re&ort that the! ha$

$ri+en thro"#h the -"h for $a! on the -a%( of a tr"%( an$ ha$ t"rne$ "& &ani%.tri%(en an$

$etit"te at the -or$er to'n of Kioro)

At leat he 'a afe) In $"e %o"re he %ame to the %oat) /eo&le loo(in# for a -ro(en man

'ere $ia&&ointe$) Na@r"$$in 'a a &ri#htl! a e+er, till 'ith hi $ar( #lae an$ "it) The$iater a&&eare$ not to ha+e to"%he$ him at all)

U"all! 'hen Na@r"$$in %ame to +iit, effort 'ere ma$e to re%ei+e him 'ell) The $ra'in#

room 'a #i+en a &e%ial %leanin#, an$ the -ra +ae 'ith the h"ntin# %ene 'ere &olihe$ "&)

B"t thi time, -e%a"e of the -elief that he 'a a man in tro"-le, an$ therefore or$inar! a#ain, 3"t

li(e ", no one ha$ trie$ har$) The $ra'in# room 'a in it ""al tate of me an$ 'e at o"t on

the +eran$ah fa%in# the !ar$)

! mother -ro"#ht tea, offerin# it not in the ""al 'a!, a the hamefa%e$ ho&italit! of

im&le fol(, -"t -eha+in# a tho"#h he 'a &erformin# ome ne%ear! final rite) When he &"t

the tra! $o'n he eeme$ a-o"t to -"rt into tear) ! -rother.in.la' #athere$ aro"n$ 'ith

%on%erne$ fa%e) B"t from Na@r"$$in 8 in &ite of that tale a-o"t the lon#.$itan%e ri$e on the

-a%( of a tr"%( 8 there %ame no torie of $iater, onl! torie of %ontin"in# l"%( an$ "%%e) He

ha$ een the tro"-le %omin#1 he ha$ &"lle$ o"t month -efore it %ame)

Na@r"$$in ai$; It 'an*t the Afri%an 'ho ma$e me ner+o") It 'a the E"ro&ean an$ the

other) ?"t -efore a %rah &eo&le #o %ra@!) We ha$ a fantati% &ro&ert! -oom) E+er!-o$! 'a onl!

tal(in# a-o"t mone!) A &ie%e of -"h %otin# nothin# to$a! 'a ellin# for half a million fran%

tomorro') It 'a li(e ma#i%, -"t 'ith real mone!) I #ot %a"#ht "& in it m!elf, an$ nearl! #ot

tra&&e$)

One S"n$a! mornin# I 'ent o"t to the $e+elo&ment 'here I ha$ -o"#ht a fe' lot) The

'eather 'a -a$) Hot an$ hea+!) The (! 'a $ar( -"t it 'an*t #oin# to rain1 it 'a 3"t #oin# tota! li(e that) The li#htnin# 'a far a'a! 8 it 'a rainin# ome'here ele in the foret) I tho"#ht;



16/165

What a &la%e to li+e in I %o"l$ hear the ri+er 8 the $e+elo&ment 'an*t too far from the ra&i$) I

litene$ to the ri+er an$ loo(e$ "& at that (! an$ I tho"#ht; Thi in*t &ro&ert!) Thi i 3"t -"h)

Thi ha al'a! -een -"h) I %o"l$ %ar%el! 'ait for on$a! mornin# after that) I &"t e+er!thin#

"& for ale) Lo'er than the #oin# &ri%e, -"t I a(e$ to -e &ai$ in E"ro&e) I ent the famil! to

U#an$a) Do !o" (no' U#an$a A lo+el! %o"ntr!) Cool, three to fo"r tho"an$ feet "&, an$ &eo&le

a! it* li(e S%otlan$, 'ith the hill) The Britih ha+e #i+en the &la%e the finet a$minitration !o"

%o"l$ a( for) er! im&le, +er! effi%ient) Won$erf"l roa$) An$ the Bant" &eo&le there are &rett!

-ri#ht)0

That 'a Na@r"$$in) We ha$ ima#ine$ him $one for) Intea$, he 'a tr!in# to e2%ite " 'ith

hi enth"iam for hi ne' %o"ntr!, an$ a(in# " to %ontem&late hi l"%( !et a#ain) The

&atrona#e, in fa%t, 'a all on hi i$e) Tho"#h he ne+er ai$ an!thin# o&enl!, he a' " on the

%oat a threatene$, an$ he ha$ %ome that $a! to ma(e me an offer)

He till ha$ interet in hi ol$ %o"ntr! 8 a ho&, a fe' a#en%ie) He ha$ tho"#ht it &r"$ent to

(ee& the ho& on, 'hile he 'a tranferrin# hi aet o"t of the %o"ntr!, to &re+ent &eo&le loo(in#

at hi affair too %loel!) An$ it 'a thi ho& an$ thoe a#en%ie that he no' offere$ me)

The! aren*t 'orth an!thin# no') B"t the! 'ill -e a#ain) I reall! ho"l$ -e #i+in# it to !o"

for nothin#) B"t that 'o"l$ -e -a$ for !o" an$ for me) Yo" m"t al'a! (no' 'hen to &"ll o"t) A

-"ineman in*t a mathemati%ian) Remem-er that) Ne+er -e%ome h!&noti@e$ -! the -ea"t! of

n"m-er) A -"ineman i omeone 'ho -"! at ten an$ i ha&&! to #et o"t at t'el+e) The other

(in$ of man -"! at ten, ee it rie to ei#hteen an$ $oe nothin#) He i 'aitin# for it to #et to

t'ent!) The -ea"t! of n"m-er) When it $ro& to ten a#ain he 'ait for it to #et -a%( to ei#hteen)

When it $ro& to t'o he 'ait for it to #et -a%( to ten) Well, it #et -a%( there) B"t he ha 'ate$ a

:"arter of hi life) An$ all he* #ot o"t of hi mone! i a little mathemati%al e2%itement)0 I ai$, Thi ho&; a"min# !o" -o"#ht at ten, 'hat 'o"l$ !o" a! !o" 'ere ellin# it to me

for0

T'o) In three or fo"r !ear it 'ill %lim- "& to i2) B"ine ne+er $ie in Afri%a1 it i onl!

interr"&te$) 9or me it i a 'ate of time to ee that t'o #et "& to i2) There i more for me in %otton

in U#an$a) B"t for !o" it 'ill -e a tre-lin# of !o"r %a&ital) What !o" m"t al'a! (no' i 'hen to

#et o"t)

Na@r"$$in ha$ een faithf"lne in m! han$) B"t he ha$ rea$ me 'ron#) Be%a"e 'hen I

a%%e&te$ hi offer I 'a in an im&ortant 'a! -rea(in# faith 'ith him) I ha$ a%%e&te$ hi offer

-e%a"e I 'ante$ to -rea( a'a!) To -rea( a'a! from m! famil! an$ %omm"nit! alo meant

-rea(in# a'a! from m! "n&o(en %ommitment to Na@r"$$in an$ hi $a"#hter)

She 'a a lo+el! #irl) On%e a !ear, for a fe' 'ee(, he %ame to the %oat to ta! 'ith her

father* iter) She 'a -etter e$"%ate$ than I 'a1 there 'a ome tal( of her #oin# in for

a%%o"ntan%! or la') She 'o"l$ ha+e -een a +er! ni%e #irl to marr!, -"t I a$mire$ her a I 'o"l$

ha+e a$mire$ a #irl of m! o'n famil!) Nothin# 'o"l$ ha+e -een eaier than to marr! Na@r"$$in*

$a"#hter) Nothin#, to me, 'o"l$ ha+e -een more tiflin#) An$ it 'a from that tiflin# a 'ell a

from e+er!thin# ele that I $ro+e a'a!, 'hen I left the %oat in the /e"#eot)

I 'a -rea(in# faith 'ith Na@r"$$in) Yet he 8 a reliher of life, a ee(er after e2&erien%e 8

ha$ -een m! e2em&lar1 an$ it 'a to hi to'n that I $ro+e) All that I (ne' of the to'n at the -en$of the ri+er I ha$ #ot from Na@r"$$in* torie) Ri$i%"lo" thin# %an 'or( on " at moment of



17/165

train1 an$ to'ar$ the en$ of that har$ $ri+e 'hat 'a often in m! hea$ 'a 'hat Na@r"$$in ha$

ai$ a-o"t the reta"rant of the to'n, a-o"t the foo$ of E"ro&e an$ the 'ine) The 'ine are

Sa%%one an$ S&ee$,0 he ha$ ai$) It 'a a mer%hant* o-er+ation) He ha$ meant that e+en there,

in the %entre of Afri%a, the 'ine ha$ %ome from the hi&&er on o"r eat %oat, an$ not from the

&eo&le on the other i$e) B"t in m! ima#ination I allo'e$ the 'or$ to tan$ for &"re -li) I ha$ ne+er -een to a real E"ro&ean reta"rant or tate$ 'ine 8 for-i$$en to " 8 'ith an!

&lea"re1 an$ I (ne' that the life Na@r"$$in ha$ $e%ri-e$ ha$ %ome to an en$) B"t I $ro+e

thro"#h Afri%a to Na@r"$$in* to'n a to a &la%e 'here thi life mi#ht -e re.%reate$ for me)

When I arri+e$ I fo"n$ that the to'n from 'hi%h Na@r"$$in ha$ -ro"#ht -a%( hi tale ha$

-een $etro!e$, ha$ ret"rne$ to the -"h he ha$ ha$ a +iion of 'hen he ha$ $e%i$e$ to ell) In

&ite of m!elf, in &ite of all that I ha$ -een tol$ a-o"t re%ent e+ent, I felt ho%(e$, let $o'n) !

faithlene har$l! eeme$ to matter)

Wine It 'a har$ to #et the im&let foo$1 an$ if !o" 'ante$ +e#eta-le !o" either #ot them

o"t of an ol$ 8 an$ e2&eni+e 8 tin, or !o" #re' them !o"relf) The Afri%an 'ho ha$

a-an$one$ the to'n an$ #one -a%( to their +illa#e 'ere -etter off1 the! at leat ha$ #one -a%( to

their tra$itional life an$ 'ere more or le elf."ffi%ient) B"t for the ret of " in the to'n, 'ho

nee$e$ ho& an$ er+i%e 8 a fe' Bel#ian, ome ree( an$ Italian, a han$f"l of In$ian 8 it

'a a tri&&e$, Ro-inon Cr"oe (in$ of e2iten%e) We ha$ %ar an$ 'e li+e$ in &ro&er ho"e 8 I

ha$ -o"#ht a flat o+er an em&t! 'areho"e for almot nothin#) B"t if 'e ha$ 'orn (in an$ li+e$

in that%he$ h"t it 'o"l$n*t ha+e -een too ina&&ro&riate) The ho& 'ere em&t!1 'ater 'a a

&ro-lem1 ele%tri%it! 'a errati%1 an$ &etrol 'a often hort)

On%e for ome 'ee( 'e 'ere 'itho"t (eroene) T'o em&t! oil -ar#e ha$ -een han#haie$

-! &eo&le $o'nri+er, to'e$ a ri+er &oil to a hi$$en %ree(, an$ %on+erte$ into li+in# :"arter)

The &eo&le here li(e$ to %ra&e their !ar$ $o'n to the re$ earth, to (ee& a'a! na(e1 an$ theteel $e%( of the -ar#e &ro+i$e$ an i$eal li+in# "rfa%e)

On thoe (eroenele mornin# I ha$ to -oil m! 'ater on an En#lih.ma$e %at.iron %har%oal

-ra@ier 8 &art of m! ho& to%(, inten$e$ for ale to +illa#e Afri%an) I too( the -ra@ier to the

lan$in# of the e2ternal tair%ae at the -a%( of the ho"e, :"atte$ an$ fanne$) All aro"n$ me

&eo&le 'ere $oin# the ame1 the &la%e 'a -l"e 'ith mo(e)

An$ there 'ere the r"in) &isceri,e probat pop,los et foedera .,n%i) Thee Latin 'or$,

'hoe meanin# I $i$n*t (no', 'ere all that remaine$ of a mon"ment o"ti$e the $o%( #ate) I

(ne' the 'or$ -! heart1 I #a+e them m! o'n &ron"n%iation, an$ the! ran li(e a nonene 3in#le in

m! hea$) The 'or$ 'ere %ar+e$ at the to& of a -lo%( of #ranite, an$ the ret of the #ranite 'a

no' -are) The -ron@e %"l&t"re -elo' the 'or$ ha$ -een torn a'a!1 the 3a##e$ little -it of

-ron@e that remaine$ an%hore$ in the #ranite "##ete$ that the %"l&tor ha$ $one -anana lea+e or

&alm -ran%he at the to&, to frame hi %om&oition) I 'a tol$ that the mon"ment ha$ -een &"t "&

onl! a fe' !ear -efore, almot at the en$ of the %olonial time, to mar( i2t! !ear of the teamer

er+i%e from the %a&ital)

So almot a oon a it ha$ -een &"t "& 8 no $o"-t 'ith &ee%he a-o"t a f"rther i2t! !ear

of er+i%e 8 the teamer mon"ment ha$ -een (no%(e$ $o'n) With all the other %olonial tat"e

an$ mon"ment) /e$etal ha$ -een $efa%e$, &rote%ti+e railin# flattene$, floo$li#ht mahe$ an$

left to r"t) R"in ha$ -een left a r"in1 no attem&t ha$ -een ma$e to ti$! "&) The name of all the

main treet ha$ -een %han#e$) Ro"#h -oar$ %arrie$ the ne', ro"#hl! lettere$ name) No one"e$ the ne' name, -e%a"e no one &arti%"larl! %are$ a-o"t them) The 'ih ha$ onl! -een to #et



18/165

ri$ of the ol$, to 'i&e o"t the memor! of the intr"$er) It 'a "nner+in#, the $e&th of that Afri%an

ra#e, the 'ih to $etro!, re#ar$le of the %one:"en%e)

B"t more "nner+in# than an!thin# ele 'a the r"ine$ "-"r- near the ra&i$) al"a-le real

etate for a 'hile, an$ no' -"h a#ain, %ommon #ro"n$, a%%or$in# to Afri%an &ra%ti%e) The ho"e

ha$ -een et ali#ht one -! one) The! ha$ -een tri&&e$ 8 -efore or after'ar$ 8 onl! of thoethin# that the lo%al &eo&le nee$e$; heet of tin, len#th of &i&e, -atht"- an$ in( an$ la+ator!

-o'l =im&ermea-le +eel, "ef"l for oa(in# %aa+a in>) The -i# la'n an$ #ar$en ha$

ret"rne$ to -"h1 the treet ha$ $ia&&eare$1 +ine an$ %ree&er ha$ #ro'n o+er -ro(en, -lea%he$

'all of %on%rete or hollo' %la! -ri%() Here an$ there in the -"h %o"l$ till -e een the %on%rete

hell of 'hat ha$ -een reta"rant =Sa%%one an$ S&ee$ 'ine> an$ ni#ht%l"-) One ni#ht%l"- ha$

-een %alle$ Na&oli01 the no' meanin#le name, &ainte$ on the %on%rete 'all, 'a almot

-lea%he$ a'a!)

S"n an$ rain an$ -"h ha$ ma$e the ite loo( ol$, li(e the ite of a $ea$ %i+ili@ation) The

r"in, &rea$in# o+er o man! a%re, eeme$ to &ea( of a final %atatro&he) B"t the %i+ili@ation

'an*t $ea$) It 'a the %i+ili@ation I e2ite$ in an$ in fa%t 'a till 'or(in# to'ar$) An$ that

%o"l$ ma(e for an o$$ feelin#; to -e amon# the r"in 'a to ha+e !o"r time.ene "nettle$) Yo"

felt li(e a #hot, not from the &at, -"t from the f"t"re) Yo" felt that !o"r life an$ am-ition ha$

alrea$! -een li+e$ o"t for !o" an$ !o" 'ere loo(in# at the reli% of that life) Yo" 'ere in a &la%e

'here the f"t"re ha$ %ome an$ #one)

With it r"in an$ it $e&ri+ation, Na@r"$$in* to'n 'a a #hot to'n) An$ for me, a a

ne'%omer, there 'a nothin# li(e a o%ial life) The e2&atriate 'eren*t 'el%omin#) The! ha$ -een

thro"#h a lot1 the! till $i$n*t (no' ho' thin# 'ere #oin# to t"rn o"t1 an$ the! 'ere +er!

ner+o") The Bel#ian, e&e%iall! the !o"n#er one, 'ere f"ll of reentment an$ a ene of

in3"ti%e) The ree(, #reat famil! men, 'ith the a##rei+ene an$ fr"tration of famil! men,(e&t to their familie an$ their imme$iate frien$) There 'ere three ho"e that I +iite$, +iitin#

them in t"rn on 'ee($a! for l"n%h, 'hi%h ha$ -e%ome m! main meal) The! 'ere all Aian or

In$ian ho"e)

There 'a a %o"&le from In$ia) The! li+e$ in a mall flat that melle$ of aafoeti$a an$ 'a

$e%orate$ 'ith &a&er flo'er an$ -ri#htl! %olo"re$ reli#io" &rint) He 'a a Unite$ Nation

e2&ert of ome ort 'ho ha$n*t 'ante$ to #o -a%( to In$ia an$ ha$ ta!e$ on $oin# o$$ 3o- after

hi %ontra%t ha$ e2&ire$) The! 'ere a ho&ita-le %o"&le an$ the! ma$e a &oint =I feel for reli#io"

reaon> of offerin# ho&italit! to fri#htene$ or tran$e$ forei#ner) The! &oilt their ho&italit! -!

tal(in# a little too m"%h a-o"t it) Their foo$ 'a too li:"i$ an$ &e&&er! for me, an$ I $i$n*t li(e

the 'a! the man ate) He -ent hi hea$ lo' o+er hi foo$, (ee&in# hi noe an in%h or t'o a'a!

from hi &late, an$ he ate noiil!, la&&in# hi li& to#ether) While he ate li(e thi hi 'ife fanne$

him, ne+er ta(in# her e!e off hi &late, fannin# 'ith her ri#ht han$, retin# her %hin on the &alm

of her left han$) Still, I 'ent there t'i%e a 'ee(, more for the a(e of ha+in# ome'here to #o than

for the foo$)

The other &la%e I 'ent to 'a a ro"#h, ran%h.li(e ho"e that -elon#e$ to an el$erl! In$ian

%o"&le 'hoe famil! ha$ all #one a'a! $"rin# the tro"-le) The !ar$ 'a -i# an$ $"t!, f"ll of

a-an$one$ %ar an$ tr"%(, the reli% of a tran&ort -"ine in %olonial $a!) Thi ol$ %o"&le

$i$n*t eem to (no' 'here the! 'ere) The -"h of Afri%a 'a o"ti$e their !ar$1 -"t the! &o(e

no 9ren%h, no Afri%an lan#"a#e, an$ from the 'a! the! -eha+e$ !o" 'o"l$ ha+e tho"#ht that theri+er 3"t $o'n the roa$ 'a the an#e, 'ith tem&le an$ hol! men an$ -athin# te&) B"t it 'a



19/165

oothin# to -e 'ith them) The! $i$n*t loo( for %on+eration, an$ 'ere :"ite ha&&! if !o" ai$

nothin#, if !o" ate an$ ran)

Sho-a an$ aheh 'ere the &eo&le I felt %loet to, an$ I oon tho"#ht of them a frien$)

The! ha$ a ho& in 'hat o"#ht to ha+e -een a &rime %ommer%ial &oition, o&&oite the +an $er

We!$en Hotel) Li(e me, the! 'ere mi#rant from the eat an$ ref"#ee from their o'n%omm"nit!) The! 'ere an e2traor$inaril! #oo$.loo(in# %o"&le1 it 'a tran#e, in o"r to'n, to fin$

&eo&le o %aref"l of their $re an$ a&&earan%e) B"t the! ha$ li+e$ too lon# a&art from their

fello' an$ ha$ for#otten ho' to -e %"rio" a-o"t them) Li(e man! iolate$ &eo&le, the! 'ere

'ra&&e$ "& in themel+e an$ not too interete$ in the 'orl$ o"ti$e) An$ thi -ea"tif"l %o"&le

ha$ their $a! of tenion) Sho-a, the la$!, 'a +ain an$ ne"roti%) aheh, the im&ler &artner,

%o"l$ -e in a tate of an2iet! a-o"t her)

That 'a m! life in Na@r"$$in* to'n) I ha$ 'ante$ to -rea( a'a! an$ ma(e a freh tart) B"t

there are $e#ree in e+er!thin#, an$ I felt -"r$ene$ -! the -arene of m! $a!) ! life 'a

"n%ontri%te$, -"t narro'er than it ha$ e+er -een1 the olit"$e of m! e+enin# 'a li(e an a%he) I

$i$n*t thin( I ha$ the reo"r%e to lat) ! %omfort 'a that I ha$ lot little, e2%e&t time1 I %o"l$

al'a! mo+e on 8 tho"#h 'here, I $i$n*t !et (no') An$ then I fo"n$ I %o"l$n*t mo+e) I ha$ to

ta!)

What I ha$ feare$ 'o"l$ ha&&en on the %oat %ame to &a) There 'a an "&riin#1 an$ the

Ara- 8 men almot a Afri%an a their er+ant 8 ha$ -een finall! lai$ lo')

I firt hear$ the ne' from m! frien$ Sho-a an$ a.heh, 'ho ha$ #ot it from the ra$io 8

that e2&atriate ha-it of litenin# to the BBC ne' 'a omethin# I ha$ not !et #ot into) We treate$

the ne' a a e%ret, a omethin# that ha$ to -e (e&t from the lo%al &eo&le1 thi 'a one o%%aion

'hen 'e 'ere #la$ there 'a no lo%al ne'&a&er) Then ne'&a&er from E"ro&e an$ the Unite$ State %ame to +ario" &eo&le in the to'n an$

'ere &ae$ aro"n$1 an$ it 'a e2traor$inar! to me that ome of the ne'&a&er %o"l$ ha+e fo"n$

#oo$ 'or$ for the -"t%her! on the %oat) B"t &eo&le are li(e that a-o"t &la%e in 'hi%h the! aren*t

reall! interete$ an$ 'here the! $on*t ha+e to li+e) Some &a&er &o(e of the en$ of fe"$alim an$

the $a'n of a ne' a#e) B"t 'hat ha$ ha&&ene$ 'a not ne') /eo&le 'ho ha$ #ro'n fee-le ha$

-een &h!i%all! $etro!e$) That, in Afri%a, 'a not ne'1 it 'a the ol$et la' of the lan$)

Letter e+ent"all! %ame from the %oat 8 in a -at%h 8 from mem-er of m! famil!) The!

'ere %a"tio"l! 'ritten, -"t their mea#e 'a &lain) There 'a no &la%e for " on the %oat1 o"r

life there 'a o+er) The famil! 'a %atterin#) Onl! ol$ &eo&le 'o"l$ ta! on in o"r famil!

%om&o"n$ 8 a :"ieter life there, at lat) The famil! er+ant, -"r$enome to the en$, ref"in# to

#o a'a!, initin# on their la+e tat" e+en at thi time of re+ol"tion, 'ere -ein# &lit "& amon#

the famil!) An$ one of the &oint of the letter 'a that I ha$ to ta(e m! hare)

It 'a not for me to %hooe 'hom I 'ante$1 a&&arentl! I ha$ alrea$! -een %hoen -!

omeone) One of the -o! or !o"n# men from the er+ant ho"e 'ante$ to #et a far a'a! from

the %oat a &oi-le, an$ he ha$ -een firm a-o"t -ein# ent to ta! 'ith Salim)0 The -o! ai$ he

ha$ al'a! ha$ a &e%ial li(in# for Salim,0 an$ he ha$ ma$e "%h a f" that the! ha$ $e%i$e$ to

en$ him to me) I %o"l$ ima#ine the %ene) I %o"l$ ima#ine the %reamin# an$ the tam&in# an$ the

"l(in#) That 'a ho' the er+ant #ot their 'a! in o"r ho"e1 the! %o"l$ -e 'ore than %hil$ren)

! father, not realiin# 'hat other &eo&le in the famil! ha$ 'ritten, im&l! ai$ in hi letter that



20/165

he an$ m! mother ha$ $e%i$e$ to en$ omeone to loo( after me 8 he meant, of %o"re, that he

'a en$in# me a -o! to loo( after an$ fee$)

I %o"l$n*t a! no; the -o! 'a on hi 'a!) That thi -o! ha$ a &e%ial li(in#0 for me 'a

ne' to me) A -etter reaon for hi %hoi%e of me 'a that I 'a 3"t three or fo"r !ear ol$er than

he 'a, "nmarrie$, an$ more li(el! to &"t "& 'ith hi 'an$erin# 'a!) He ha$ al'a! -een a'an$erer) We ha$ ent him to the Korani% %hool 'hen he 'a mall, -"t he 'a al'a! r"nnin#

off ome'here ele, in &ite of -eatin# -! hi mother) =An$ ho' he %reame$ in the :"arter, an$

ho' hi mother ho"te$ 8 -oth of them o+er$oin# the $rama, tr!in# to #et a m"%h attention a

&oi-le from the ret of the %om&o"n$> He 'a no-o$!* i$ea of a ho"e er+ant) With -e$ an$

-oar$ al'a! &ro+i$e$, he 'a more a man a-o"t to'n, frien$l! an$ "nrelia-le an$ f"ll of frien$,

al'a! 'illin#, al'a! offerin# to hel&, an$ ne+er $oin# a :"arter of 'hat he &romie$)

He t"rne$ "& at the flat one e+enin# in one of Da"lat* tr"%(, not lon# after I ha$ #ot the

letter a!in# that he ha$ -een ent) An$ m! heart 'ent o"t to him; he loo(e$ o altere$, o tire$

an$ fri#htene$) He 'a till li+in# 'ith the ho%( of e+ent on the %oat1 an$ he ha$n*t li(e$ the

3o"rne! a%ro Afri%a at all)

He ha$ $one the firt half of the 3o"rne! -! the rail'a!, 'hi%h tra+elle$ at an a+era#e &ee$

of ten mile an ho"r) Then he ha$ tranferre$ to -"e an$ finall! to Da"lat* tr"%(; in &ite of

'ar, -a$ roa$ an$ 'orn.o"t +ehi%le, Da"lat, a man of o"r %omm"nit!, maintaine$ a tr"%(in#

er+i%e -et'een o"r to'n an$ the eatern frontier) Da"lat* $ri+er hel&e$ the -o! &at the +ario"

offi%ial) B"t the mi2e$.ra%e man a-o"t to'n from the %oat 'a till Afri%an eno"#h to -e

"nettle$ -! hi &aa#e thro"#h the tran#e tri-e of the interior) He %o"l$n*t -rin# himelf to eat

their foo$, an$ he ha$n*t eaten for $a!) Witho"t (no'in# it, he ha$ ma$e in re+ere the 3o"rne!

'hi%h ome of hi an%etor ha$ ma$e a %ent"r! or more -efore)

He thre' himelf into m! arm, %on+ertin# the "lim em-ra%e into a %hil$* %lin#in#) I&atte$ him on the -a%(, an$ he too( thi a a i#nal to %ream the &la%e $o'n) Ri#ht a'a!, -et'een

%ream an$ -a'l, he -e#an tellin# me a-o"t the (illin# he ha$ een in the mar(et at home)

I $i$n*t ta(e in all that he 'a a!in#) I 'a 'orrie$ a-o"t the nei#h-o"r, an$ tr!in# to #et

him to tone $o'n the %reamin#, tr!in# to #et him to "n$ertan$ that that (in$ of ho'in#.off

la+e -eha+io"r ='hi%h it &artl! 'a> 'a all ri#ht on the %oat, -"t that &eo&le here 'o"l$n*t

"n$ertan$) He 'a -e#innin# to #o on a little -it, too, a-o"t the a+a#er! of the kafar, the

Afri%an, -eha+in# a tho"#h m! flat 'a the famil! %om&o"n$ an$ he %o"l$ ho"t an!thin# he

'ante$ a-o"t &eo&le o"ti$e) An$ all the time Da"lat* frien$l! Afri%an loa$er 'a %omin# "& the

e2ternal tair%ae 'ith l"##a#e 8 not m"%h, -"t in man! mall, a'('ar$ &ie%e; a fe' -"n$le, a

'i%(er'or( la"n$r! -a(et, ome %ar$-oar$ -o2e)

I -ro(e a'a! from the -a'lin# -o! 8 to &a! attention 'a to en%o"ra#e him 8 an$ I $ealt

'ith the loa$er, 'al(in# o"t 'ith him to the treet to ti& him) The -a'lin# in the flat "&tair $ie$

$o'n, a I ha$ e2&e%te$1 oli.r"$e an$ the tran#ene of the flat 'ere ha+in# their effe%t1 an$

'hen I 'ent -a%( "& I ref"e$ to hear an! more from the -o! "ntil he ha$ ha$ omethin# to eat)

He -e%ame :"iet an$ %orre%t, an$ 'hile I &re&are$ ome -a(e$ -ean an$ %heee on toat he

-ro"#ht o"t, from hi -"n$le an$ -o2e, the thin# that ha$ -een ent me -! m! famil!) in#er

an$ a"%e an$ &i%e from m! mother) T'o famil! &hoto#ra&h from m! father, an$ a 'all &rint

on %hea& &a&er of one of o"r hol! &la%e in "3arat, ho'in# it a a mo$ern &la%e, tho"#h; the

artit ha$ &"t in motor%ar an$ motor-i(e an$ -i%!%le an$ e+en train &ell.mell in the



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"rro"n$in# treet) It 'a m! father* 'a! of a!in# that, mo$ern a I 'a, I 'o"l$ ret"rn to the

faith)

I 'a in the mar(et, Salim,0 the -o! ai$, after he ha$ eaten) At firt I tho"#ht it 'a 3"t a

:"arrel aro"n$ ian* tall) I %o"l$n*t -elie+e 'hat I 'a eein#) The! 'ere -eha+in# a tho"#h

(ni+e $i$n*t %"t, a tho"#h &eo&le 'eren*t ma$e of fleh) I %o"l$n*t -elie+e it) At the en$ it 'a aif a &a%( of $o# ha$ #ot into a -"t%her* tall) I a' arm an$ le# -lee$in# an$ l!in# a-o"t) ?"t

li(e that) The! 'ere till there the ne2t $a!, thoe arm an$ le#)0

I trie$ to to& him) I $i$n*t 'ant to hear more) B"t it 'an*t ea! to to& him) He 'ent on

a-o"t thoe %"t.off arm an$ le# that -elon#e$ to &eo&le 'e ha$ (no'n in%e 'e 'ere %hil$ren) It

'a terri-le, 'hat he ha$ een) B"t I 'a alo -e#innin# to feel that he 'a tr!in# to e2%ite himelf

to %r! a little -it more after he ha$ to&&e$ 'antin# to %r!) I felt that it 'orrie$ him to fin$ that

from time to time he 'a for#ettin#, an$ thin(in# of other thin#) He eeme$ to -e 'antin# to thrill

himelf a#ain an$ a#ain1 an$ thi $it"r-e$ me)

In a fe' $a!, tho"#h, he tha'e$ o"t) An$ the e+ent of the %oat 'ere ne+er &o(en of a#ain)

He ettle$ $o'n more eail! than I e2&e%te$) I ha$ e2&e%te$ him to #o "l(! an$ 'ith$ra'n1 I ha$

tho"#ht, e&e%iall! after hi "nha&&! 3o"rne!, that he 'o"l$ ha+e hate$ o"r -a%('ar$ to'n) B"t he

li(e$ it1 an$ he li(e$ it -e%a"e he 'a himelf li(e$, in a 'a! he ha$n*t -een -efore)

/h!i%all! he 'a :"ite $ifferent from the lo%al &eo&le) He 'a taller, more m"%"lar, looer

an$ more ener#eti% in hi mo+ement) He 'a a$mire$) The lo%al 'omen, 'ith their ""al free

'a!, ma$e no e%ret of fin$in# him $eira-le 8 %allin# o"t to him in the treet, an$ to&&in# an$

tarin# 'ith 'i%(e$, half.milin# =an$ li#htl! %roe$> e!e that a&&eare$ to a!; Coni$er thi a

3o(e, an$ la"#h) Or ta(e it erio"l!)0 ! o'n 'a! of loo(in# at him %han#e$) He %eae$ to -e one

of the -o! from the er+ant ho"e) I a' 'hat the lo%al &eo&le a'1 in m! o'n e!e he -e%ame

more han$ome an$ $itin%ti+e) To the lo%al &eo&le he 'an*t :"ite an Afri%an, an$ he aro"e$ notri-al "neaine1 he 'a an e2oti% 'ith Afri%an %onne%tion 'hom the! 'ante$ to %laim) He

flo"rihe$) He &i%(e$ "& the lo%al lan#"a#e fat, an$ he e+en #ot a ne' name)

At home 'e ha$ %alle$ him Ali or 8 'hen 'e 'ante$ to "##et the &e%ial 'il$ an$

"nrelia-le nat"re of thi Ali 8 Ali.'a =Ali Ali B"t 'here i thi Ali.'a0>) He re3e%te$ hi

name no') He &referre$ to -e %alle$ ett!, 'hi%h 'a 'hat the lo%al &eo&le %alle$ him) It 'a

ome time -efore I "n$ertoo$ that it 'an*t a real name, that it 'a 3"t the 9ren%h 'or$ metis,

omeone of mi2e$ ra%e) B"t that 'an*t ho' I "e$ it) To me it 'a onl! a name; ett!)

Here, a on the %oat, ett! 'a a 'an$erer) He ha$ the -e$room 3"t a%ro the &aa#e

from the (it%hen1 it 'a the firt $oor on the ri#ht a !o" %ame in from the lan$in# of the e2ternal

tair%ae) I often hear$ him %omin# in late at ni#ht) That 'a the free$om he ha$ %ome to me for)

B"t the ett! 'ho en3o!e$ that free$om 'a a $ifferent &eron from the -o! 'ho ha$ arri+e$

-a'lin# an$ %reamin#, 'ith the manner of the er+ant ho"e) He ha$ :"i%(l! he$ thoe

manner1 he ha$ $e+elo&e$ a ne' i$ea of hi 'orth) He -e%ame "ef"l in the ho&1 an$ in the flat,

hi 'an$erin# ha-it 8 'hi%h I ha$ $rea$e$ 8 (e&t hi &reen%e li#ht) B"t he 'a al'a! there,

an$ in the to'n he 'a li(e one of m! o'n) He leene$ m! olit"$e an$ ma$e the em&t! month

more -eara-le 8 month of 'aitin# for tra$e to tart "& a#ain) A, +er! lo'l!, it 'a -e#innin# to

$o)

We fell into the ro"tine of mornin# %offee at the flat, ho&, e&arate l"n%he, ho&, e&arate

e+enin#) an an$ mater ometime met, a e:"al 'ith e:"al nee$, in the $ar( little -ar that



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-e#an to a&&ear in o"r to'n, i#n of rea'a(enin# life; ro"#h little %ell 'ith roof of %orr"#ate$

iron, no %eilin#, %on%rete 'all &ainte$ $ar( -l"e or #reen, re$ %on%rete floor)

In one "%h &la%e ett! &"t the eal on o"r ne' relationhi& one e+enin#) When I entere$ I

a' him $an%in# fantati%all! 8 lim.'aite$, narro'.hi&&e$, 'on$erf"ll! ma$e) He to&&e$ a

oon a he a' me 8 hi er+ant* intin%t) B"t then he -o'e$ an$ ma$e a ho' of 'el%omin# mea tho"#h he o'ne$ the &la%e) He ai$, in the 9ren%h a%%ent he ha$ &i%(e$ "&, I m"t $o nothin#

in$e%ent in front of thepatron)0 An$ that 'a &re%iel! 'hat he 'ent on to $o)

So he learne$ to aert himelf) B"t there 'ere no train -et'een ") An$ he -e%ame,

in%reain#l!, an aet) He -e%ame m! %"tom %ler() He 'a al'a! #oo$ 'ith the %"tomer an$

'on me an$ the ho& m"%h #oo$'ill) A an e2oti%, a li%ene$ man, he 'a the onl! &eron in the

to'n 'ho 'o"l$ ri( ma(in# a 3o(e 'ith Za-eth, the marchande'ho 'a alo a or%ere)

That 'a ho' it 'a 'ith ", a the to'n %ame to life a#ain, a the teamer tarte$ to %ome

"& a#ain from the %a&ital, on%e a 'ee(, then t'i%e a 'ee(, a &eo&le -e#an %omin# -a%( from the

+illa#e to the cit+sin the to'n, a tra$e #re' an$ m! -"ine, 'hi%h ha$ too$ for o lon# at

@ero, %lim-e$ =to "e Na@r"$$in* %ale of ten> -a%( "& to t'o, an$ e+en #a+e me #lim&e of fo"r)

CHA/TER 6

Za-eth, a a ma#i%ian or or%ere, (e&t herelf from men) B"t it ha$n*t al'a! -een o1

Za-eth ha$n*t al'a! -een a ma#i%ian) She ha$ a on) She &o(e of him ometime to me, -"t he

&o(e of him a &art of a life he ha$ &"t -ehin$ her) She ma$e that on eem o far a'a! that Itho"#ht the -o! mi#ht -e $ea$) Then one $a! he -ro"#ht him to the ho&)

He 'a a-o"t fifteen or i2teen, an$ alrea$! :"ite -i#, taller an$ hea+ier than the men of o"r

re#ion, 'hoe a+era#e hei#ht 'a a-o"t fi+e feet) Hi (in 'a &erfe%tl! -la%(, 'ith nothin# of hi

mother* %o&&er %olo"r1 hi fa%e 'a lon#er an$ more firml! mo$elle$1 an$ from 'hat Za-eth ai$

I #athere$ that the -o!* father %ame from one of the tri-e of the o"th)

The -o!* father 'a a tra$er) A a tra$er, he ha$ tra+elle$ a-o"t the %o"ntr! $"rin# the

mira%"lo" &ea%e of the %olonial time, 'hen men %o"l$, if the! 'ihe$, &a! little attention to tri-al

-o"n$arie) That 'a ho', $"rin# hi tra+el, he an$ Za-eth ha$ met1 it 'a from thi tra$er that

Za-eth ha$ &i%(e$ "& her tra$in# (ill) At in$e&en$en%e, tri-al -o"n$arie ha$ -e%ome im&ortant

a#ain, an$ tra+el 'a not a afe a it ha$ -een) The man from the o"th ha$ #one -a%( to hi tri-al

lan$, ta(in# the on he ha$ ha$ -! Za-eth) A father %o"l$ al'a! %laim hi %hil$1 there 'ere an!

n"m-er of fol( a!in# that e2&ree$ thi almot "ni+eral Afri%an la') An$ 9er$inan$ 8 that

'a the name of the -o! 8 ha$ &ent the lat fe' !ear a'a! from hi mother) He ha$ #one to

%hool in the o"th, in one of the minin# to'n, an$ ha$ -een there thro"#h all the tro"-le that

ha$ %ome after in$e&en$en%e, e&e%iall! the lon# e%eionit 'ar)

No' for ome reaon 8 &erha& -e%a"e the father ha$ $ie$, or ha$ marrie$ a#ain an$

'ihe$ to #et ri$ of 9er$inan$, or im&l! -e%a"e Za-eth ha$ 'ihe$ it 8 9er$inan$ ha$ -een ent

-a%( to hi mother) He 'a a tran#er in the lan$) B"t no one here %o"l$ -e 'itho"t a tri-e1 an$

9er$inan$, a#ain a%%or$in# to tri-al %"tom, ha$ -een re%ei+e$ into hi mother* tri-e)



23/165

Za-eth ha$ $e%i$e$ to en$ 9er$inan$ to the l!%


24/165

feat"re) The i$ea %ame to me that I 'a loo(in# at 9er$inan$ 'ith the e!e of an Afri%an, an$ that

'a ho' I al'a! loo(e$ at him) It 'a the effe%t on me of hi fa%e, 'hi%h I a' then an$ later a

one of #reat &o'er)

I 'an*t ha&&! a-o"t Za-eth* re:"et) B"t it ha$ to -e aente$ to) An$ 'hen I '"n# m!

hea$ lo'l! from i$e to i$e, to let them -oth (no' that 9er$inan$ 'a to loo( "&on me a afrien$, 9er$inan$ -e#an to #o $o'n on one (nee) B"t then he to&&e$) He $i$n*t %om&lete the

re+eren%e1 he &reten$e$ that omethin# ha$ it%he$ him on that le#, an$ he %rat%he$ the -a%( of the

(nee he ha$ -ent) A#aint the 'hite tro"er hi (in 'a -la%( an$ health!, 'ith a li#ht hine)

Thi #oin# $o'n on one (nee 'a a tra$itional re+eren%e) It 'a 'hat %hil$ren of the -"h $i$

to ho' their re&e%t for an ol$er &eron) It 'a li(e a refle2, an$ $one 'ith no &arti%"lar

%eremon!) O"ti$e the to'n !o" mi#ht ee %hil$ren -rea( off 'hat the! 'ere $oin# an$ "$$enl!,

a tho"#h the! ha$ -een fri#htene$ -! a na(e, ra%e to the a$"lt the! ha$ 3"t een, (neel, #et their

little "n%oni$ere$ &at on the hea$, an$ then, a tho"#h nothin# ha$ ha&&ene$, r"n -a%( to 'hat

the! 'ere $oin#) It 'a a %"tom that ha$ &rea$ from the foret (in#$om to the eat) B"t it 'a a

%"tom of the -"h) It %o"l$n*t tranfer to the to'n1 an$ for omeone li(e 9er$inan$, e&e%iall!

after hi time in the o"thern minin# to'n, the %hil$* #et"re of re&e%t 'o"l$ ha+e eeme$ ol$.

fahione$ an$ "-er+ient)

I ha$ alrea$! -een $it"r-e$ -! hi fa%e) No' I tho"#ht; There* #oin# to -e tro"-le here)

The l!%


25/165

9rom 9er$inan$* &oint of +ie' ett! 'a a -etter #"i$e to the to'n than I 'a) An$ for

thee t'o "natta%he$ !o"n# men the &lea"re of the to'n 'ere 'hat !o" 'o"l$ e2&e%t 8 -eer,

-ar, 'omen)

Beer 'a &art of the &eo&le* foo$ here1 %hil$ren $ran( it1 &eo&le -e#an $rin(in# from earl!

in the mornin#) We ha$ no lo%al -re'er!, an$ a lot of the %ar#o -ro"#ht "& -! the teamer 'athat 'ea( la#er the &eo&le here lo+e$) At man! &oint alon# the ri+er, +illa#e $"#o"t too( on

%ae from the mo+in# teamer1 an$ the teamer, on the 'a! -a%( to the %a&ital, re%ei+e$ the

em&tie)

A-o"t 'omen, the attit"$e 'a 3"t a matter.of.fa%t) Shortl! after I arri+e$, m! frien$

aheh tol$ me that 'omen le&t 'ith men 'hene+er the! 'ere a(e$1 a man %o"l$ (no%( on an!

'oman* $oor an$ lee& 'ith her) aheh $i$n*t tell me thi 'ith an! e2%itement or a&&ro+al 8

he 'a 'ra&&e$ "& in hi o'n -ea"tif"l Sho-a) To aheh the e2"al %a"alne 'a &art of the

%hao an$ %orr"&tion of the &la%e)

That 'a ho' 8 after earl! $eli#ht 8 I ha$ -e#"n to feel m!elf) B"t I %o"l$n*t &ea( o"t

a#aint &lea"re 'hi%h 'ere alo m! o'n) I %o"l$n*t 'arn ett! or 9er$inan$ a#aint #oin# to

&la%e I 'ent to m!elf) The retraint, in fa%t, 'or(e$ the other 'a!) In &ite of the %han#e that

ha$ %ome to ett!, I till re#ar$e$ him a a mem-er of m! famil!1 an$ I ha$ to -e %aref"l not to $o

an!thin# to 'o"n$ him or an!thin# 'hi%h, 'hen re&orte$ -a%(, 'o"l$ 'o"n$ other mem-er of

the famil!) I ha$, &e%ifi%all!, not to -e een 'ith Afri%an 'omen) An$ I 'a &ro"$ that, $iffi%"lt

tho"#h it 'a, I ne+er #a+e %a"e for offen%e)

9er$inan$ an$ ett! %o"l$ $rin( in the little -ar an$ o&enl! &i%( "& 'omen or $ro& in at the

ho"e of 'omen the! ha$ #ot to (no') It 'a I 8 a mater of one man an$ #"ar$ian of the other

8 'ho ha$ to hi$e)

What %o"l$ 9er$inan$ learn from me I ha$ hear$ it ai$ on the %oat 8 an$ the forei#ner I

met here ai$ it a 'ell 8 that Afri%an $i$n*t (no' ho' to li+e)0 B! that 'a meant that

Afri%an $i$n*t (no' ho' to &en$ mone! eni-l! or ho

a bend in the river

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