'A' FOR EFFORTInstalling Wilwood disc brakes on a Model A Ford

There are many older street rods running aroundtoday with various brake systems that weredeveloped in the early-‘70s. Most were a slightimprovement over the popular ’40 Ford drumsystems, but they still weren’t up to today’sstandards. One of the most popular systems usedon many of the early street rods, especially thesmall light ones such as Model T and Model AFords, was the installation and adaptation of aVolkswagon system. The VW brakes featured adisc brake system with a small rotor and caliperand they seemed to work reasonably well on a2500-pound Model T or Model A roadster. Theproblem was the brakes were actually designed tostop an 1800 pound VW so they were marginal ona larger heavier car such as a fully loaded ModelA sedan with a V8 engine and Automatictransmission. This Model A was built many yearsago and was running the VW brakes, but with therecent installation of a 400 horsepower Chevyengine and a heavy Turbo 400 transmission, theowner felt that he needed better brakes. We willhave to agree.

The owner who has been attending many carshows over the years knew he could improve thestopping power of his Model A with a set ofWilwood disc brakes. The caliper and pads aremore than twice the size of the VW unit, so thesystem should be considerably more efficient.Being familiar with the VW installation, the ownerwas told by the rod shop he selected, that hewould need a new set of ’40 Ford-style spindlesbecause the originals had to be machined smallerto work with the VW bearings. The rod shop alsotold the owner that a new set of spindles could bepurchased from Total Coast Involved Engineeringthat would work perfectly with the disc brakeinstallation kit from Wilwood Engineering. The kitthe rod shop selected was a 140-2260 front brakesystem that came complete with everythingneeded to make the complete changeover. Hesaid it was a very straightforward installation andthe Model A could be done in two days start tofinish. The owner was pleased with what he heard,and the installation of the new brakes was put inmotion. We will show you how the upgrade was

made so you can do the same thing if you have VWbrakes or something similar on your street rod.

Wilwood recommends persons experienced in theinstallation and proper operation of disc brakesystems should only perform the installation of thiskit. A hobby builder can install this kit if he has goodmechanical knowledge and ability, car buildingexperience and a good assortment of tools. You willneed a floor jack and jack stands, an impact gun,SAE wrenches and sockets, and an inch-poundtorque wrench. Other things that will come in handyinclude a bottle of Loctite 271, PTFE thread tape,and Wilwood Hi-Temp 570 Racing Brake Fluid orWilwood EXP 600 Plus Super Hi-Temp RacingBrake Fluid.

The part number 140-2260 brake kit came with the disc brakerotors, aluminum calipers, and aluminum hubs with bearings,caliper brackets and all of the hardware needed to completethe installation.

The hot rod shop ordered a set of spindles andkingpins from Total Cost Involved Engineering (notshown) and the brake installation kit from WilwoodEngineering. The part number 140-2260 brake kitcame with the disc brake rotors, aluminumcalipers, and aluminum hubs with bearings, caliperbrackets and all of the hardware needed tocomplete the installation.

Volkswagons used a four-lug bolt pattern so thefirst thing that had to be done was get an adapterthat would change the brakes to a Ford or Chevypattern. Here’s the original VW brake system withthe adapter installed.

Removing the thick adapter plate started theinstallation. It is secured with three bolts and one ofthe VW lugs.

The brake line to the caliper had to be removed. Thiswas done with a line-wrench to avoid stripping thefitting. The brake line will be retained and used withthe new calipers. After the line was disconnected itwas plugged to stop the fluid from leaking.

The two caliper bolts were removed next, and thenthe caliper was removed from the brackets.

The grease cap was removed from the disc brakerotor. This cap was removed with a large screwdriverused as a pry bar.

Although many American spindle bolts are securedwith a cotter key, the Germans feel that it would bebetter to use an Allen lock bolt. Here the Allen lock isbeing loosened so that the spindle nut can beremoved.

After the Allen bolt was loose, the spindle nut wasremoved using large channel lock pliers.

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

After the Allen bolt was loose, the spindle nut wasremoved by hand and then the rotor was removed fromthe spindle.

The disc brake caliper brackets were removed from thespindle. The top uses nuts and bolts and the lower boltsactually attach to the steering arms.

The bolts securing the steering arms were removedwith an impact gun.

The large acorn nut on the side of the axle connects tothe kingpin retaining bolt. It was removed in preparationfor kingpin removal.

The kingpin retainer was loosened by tapping it with ahammer. Some WD40 was sprayed on first.

After the kingpin retaining bolt was removed, the kingpincould be pulled out of the axle. The kingpin also connectsto the spindle, so it was also removed.

The new Total Cost Involved Engineering spindle was setin place. The spindle uses a large bearing underneath. Ifthe spindle seems a little loose, shims can be used totighten it up. In this case a thin shim was used.

New kingpins are being used and they were greasedbefore being installed. The new kingpins will tighten upthe front suspension.

9

10

11

12

13

14

15

16

The upper felt washer and retainer were installed onthe kingpin and then it was installed through thespindle and axle. The small notch in the kingpinshould be lined up with the hole in the axle.

The kingpin retaining bolt was installed in the axle.This is a tapered retainer nut that keeps the kingpinfrom turning in the axle.

The nut was installed on the kingpin retaining boltand then it was secured. It’s a good idea to install alittle Loctite.

The Wilwood caliper bracket was installed on thespindle. The part of the bracket that secures thecaliper faces toward the back of the car.

The bolts that secure the bracket should be installed withLoctite. These are high strength Allen bolts.

The two lower bolts secure the steering arms. It is veryimportant to make sure these bolts are tight and won’tback out so coat them with Loctite.

The Wilwood aluminum hubs have two sets of holes, onefor the Ford pattern and another for the Chevy pattern.Because of this, you have to pick the correct bolt patternand then install the lug studs. The studs should betightened to 77 ft-lbs using a foot-pound torque wrench.

The rotor bracket is secured to the hub with five Allenbolts. The rotor is attached to the adapter with six bolts.All of the bolts should be coated with Loctite 271 and thenthe hub bolts should be tightened to 180 in-lbs using aninch-pound torque wrench. The hub to rotor bolts shouldbe tightened to 22 ft-lbs using a foot-pound torquewrench.

17

18

19

20

21

22

23

24

The kit comes with all of the bearings so the largebearings were packed and they were installed inthe rear side of the rotor. The races for the rear andfront bearings come installed in the hub assembly.

The next step is to install the grease seal that alsocomes installed in the kit. Here the seal is restingon the seal opening.

Using a grease seal installation tool, the seal wasset in place. One or two hammer hits and the sealis in place and level with the rotor.

The hub bolts were finger tight so they weretightened with an impact gun followed by theinch-pound torque wrench. They should betightened to 180 in-lbs.

The rotor was placed on the spindle and then the smallfront bearing was thoroughly greased and was installedin the front of the hub. That was followed with the largewasher and the spindle nut.

The hub assembly and rotor are secured with a largecastle nut. A castle nut has to be used with a cotterkey. The nut should be tight but not enough to createbinding in the bearings.

The Wilwood grease cap was installed to finish off therotor installation.

The aluminum calipers were installed with two casehardened bolts. If you look close, the bolts are drilled forsafety wiring. It’s important for the calipers to be centeredover the rotor so shims have been included in the hardwarepackage.

25

26

27

28

29

30

31

32

One shim per side was used to center the caliperover the rotor. If you look close, the silver centerportion of the caliper should be centered over theopening in the rotor.

The pads can now be installed in the caliper. Wereally shouldn’t have to say this, but the liningshould be pointing toward the rotor.

The brake pads are secured with a large retainingpin. Bend the ends so the pin doesn’t come outbut make sure it can come out when the pads needreplacement.

The kit comes with an AN fitting that should besecured to the caliper. It should be installed withsome PTFE thread tape to prevent leaks.

An aircraft line was used on the old system so we wereable to connect it to the new caliper. It should be very tightto prevent leaks.

Using two wrenches, the brake line is tightened. After thehoses are installed the brakes will need bleeding to get thesystem working properly.

The finished brake looks great and works even better. Thisinstallation was completed in a day start to finish. The bestpart is only normal hand tools are required.

Total Cost Involved Engineering, Inc.1416 West Brooks St.Ontario, CA 91762909/984-1773

Wilwood Engineering4700 Calle BoleroCamarillo, CA 93012

805/388-1188www.wilwood.com

Copyright © 2010 Wilwood Engineering, Inc. -All Rights Reserved

33

34

35

36

37

38

39