AHEIRESSREMAKESHERLIFEINWYOMING:INSIDETHEHIDDENRETREATOFANUNLIKELYARTISTANDFRONTIERWOMANby Catherine D. Anspon

Neltje’scabin,northofWyoming’sCrazyWomanCreek,givesnametohermemoir.(PhotobyCatherineD.Anspon)TrackingagreatunderknowntalentinthewildsoftheAmericanWest,aremarkablesagaunfolds.CatherineD.AnsponvisitsDoubledayheiressNeltjeatherhomeandstudiooutsideSheridan,Wyoming,ontheeveofthereleaseofanunflinchingautobiography—acathartictell-allpublishedbySt.Martin’sPress,animprintofherfamilyempire,Doubleday.HerHoustonbooklaunchistoday(Tuesday,Oct.4)at6p.m.atBayouBendVisitorCenter.Thepainterandwriter,whohasemotionallyandlegallydroppedherlastname,isa21st-centuryfeminist-meets-frontierwoman.She’slessglamorousornotoriousperhapsthanMabelDodgeLuhan,isastenaciousasGeorgiaO’Keeffe,andmoretenderheartedandfree-spiritedthanthereadermightsuspectfromtheportraitthatemergeswithinherbook,NorthofCrazy:AMemoir.Neltje,andherrevelatoryvolume,touchdowninHoustonstartingtonight.Asexposésgo,thisoneisapage-turner:abraveriffonalifeofprivilegeandachildhoodbracketedbytheWorldWars;whenWASPhegemonyreignedsupremebutitwasnighimpossibleforawomanoftheuppercrusttofindhappinessorpurposeinlifewithout

followingaconstrictivesocialcode.Addtothattheextremedysfunctionofherfamily,adynamicriddledwiththevirtuesofentrepreneurism,wealth,andstyle.EstatesonOysterBay,LongIsland,andaplantationinSouthCarolinamixwithself-absorbed,bordering-on-cruelparents,betrayal,alcoholism,childhoodsexualabuse(aNavypilotwhowasneverpunished),old-schoolnannies,andtwobadmarriages.MarriagenumberonewastoanemotionallyunavailablemanthatherMachiavellianmothersidedwithasheroseinherfamily’scompanyandfoughttheauthorforherownstock;thesecondmarriage,toacharmerwhobegananewlifewithherinthewildsofWyomingwhilealmostbankruptingher…Attimesheartbreakingandothertimesredemptive,NorthofCrazy:AMemoirisasrivetingasitisbrutallyhonest.Thedetailsareparticularlyrich,conjuringupaglamorousworldfromtheperspectiveofaninsiderwhofeltlikeanoutsider.OfherearlychildhoodmemoriesofBarberries,thefamily’sLongIslandestate,Neltjewrites,“Intheevenings,afteroursupper,andbeforemyparentshavedinner,wemightgettohaveavisitwiththem.Nanagetsusalldressedup.Iwearadress.[Brother]Nelson[DoubledayJr.]wearsshortpants,ashirt,andsometimesatie…Nanawalksdownstairswithustothelanding,wherethecannonballsitsbythegrandfatherclock.‘Thecannonballisspecial,’myfathertolduslastyear.‘GeneralAbnerDoubleday,yourgreat-great-uncle,shotthefirstcannonballfromFortSumter.ThatwasthebeginningoftheCivilWarinAmerica…’NelsonandIbothtouchedthecannonball,butIcouldnotreadtheinscriptiononthebrassplate.Iwasfourthen.”Theauthorrelaystheritualsofthewealthyhousehold,whichwereadwithconcern,knowingherdashingfather’sstrugglewithalcoholismandherownrecoveryfromit.Thecocktailhourwasabelovedbutlethalportionoftheday.“Myfathercomesoutofthelibraryleavingthedooropenbecausehehasadrinkineachhand.‘HereisyourTomCollins,’hesays,handingthedrinktomymother…Latertheywillhaveold-fashionedsfortherealcocktailhour.Thisdrinktimeisnowcalleda‘prelude.’Whentheyhaveold-fashioneds,myfatheroccasionallygivesmethemaraschinocherryasatreat…doesthatmeanhelovesmeabit?Iwonder.HetalkstoNelsonmorethantome.AndhetakesNelsononmanymoredrivesinthecar.”Thestoresofthenanniesarevivid,recalled70yearslaterinexcruciatingdetail.“ThisisNana’slastsummer.NextweekshewillmoveawaytoaRooseveltfamilytotakecareoftheirnewbornbaby.ShetellsNelsonthatiswhatsheistrainedtodo.NelsonissevenandIwillbesixinOctober.Thefearofbeingaloneanduncaredforswallowsmeup…Ontheappointedday,Iwatchassheleavesthenursery.Thegood-byesandtheclingingkissesIgiveher,thelingeringtearsandpleadings,noneofithelps.Besideme,Nelsonsobs.Earlier,hetriedtostealandhideherglassessoshewouldnotleave,butshefoundthem.AsNanagoesdownthestairswithhersmallbrownsuitcase,thebutlerTonyaheadwithherlargecase,wetwostandatthetoprailingwaitingforhertoturnaroundandsay,‘Iloveyou’orwaveagood-bye.Shedoesn’t.Shejustgoesaway.”

Nana’sreplacementmakesasceneetchedinthereader’smind.“MademoiselleVanTochisournewFrenchgoverness.WehaveFrenchlessonseveryday.SheistougherandmeanerthatNanaandhervoiceissharp.Butaleastshedoesn’tthinkNelsonissuchaprince,doesn’ttellhimhowwonderfulheis,asNanadiddaily.Onemorning,Ifeltsick.IsaidIdidn’twanttogotoschoolfeelingsick.Ithrewuponthecarpetinthenursery,Mademoiselle’sroom.Shemademeeatmyvomitoffthecarpetandsentmetoschool.ThatafternoonwhenIcamehomeshelockedmeinherclosetforpunishment.ShesaidIwaspretendingtobesicktogetoutofschool.Iwishedtherewerescissorsinhercloset.Iwouldcutherclothesinhalf.MaybeIdid.Idon’tremember.”TheidyllicandconciseromancewiththedecadeolderJohnSargent—shewas17,astudentatMissPorter’s;hewasanglingtoriseuptheDoubledayladder—playedoutoneSaturdayinlateDecember,1951,atadebutantedanceatthePierre,onthecouple’sfirstdate.Hewasafriendofherolderhalf-sisterandafrequenthouseguest.Neltjewrites,“HeandIhadspentmanyeveningsovertheyearscopingwithmymotherwhenshehadtoomuchtodrink,listeningtohertearystoriesofbeingslightedornothavingthecontrolshewantedinthecompany[afterNeltje’sfather’sdeath]…Watchingparents,mineorthosebelongingtoothers—infact,adultsofanyage—gettingdrunkwasanordinaryexperienceforme.”AttheballroomofthePierre,“WedancedaroundthehighlypolishedfloortoLesterLanin’smusic,hewasinatuxedo,meinalow-cut,virtuallystraplesseveningdress,thebodiceornamentedwithcrystaldropsandsequins,theswingingbouffantskirtofdustypinktulle.Myotherdate(Ialwaystooktwoboystothedance)wasthere,butIhavenomemoryofevenwhoitwas.…Itwasclosetomidnight:thebandwasplayingaStrausswaltz.Westeppedonthedancefloor…thenbegantheliquidmotionsoftheViennaWaltz.Hebenthisheaddownclosetomyear,‘Marryme?’”Openingthebookmid-volume,Iturntoapage,transfixed,readingofaweddingdaycarefullychoreographedbythemotherofthebride:“JohnandIgotmarriedonMay16,1953.Iwaseighteenandhewouldbetwenty-eightinlateJune.MymotherchosethedatebecausetheazaleasandrhododendronthatlinedthedrivewayofourhomeonLongIslandwouldbeinfullbloom.Sheeveninsistedthatthegardenersplacedryicearoundthebaseoftheazaleabushestomaintainperfectblossomsifnecessary,andsheensuredthatourweddingdidnotinterferewithNelson’sfinalexamsatPrinceton.Iwaspersonallypayingforthisweddingbutwasnotallowedtosayhowmanypeopleorevenwhoshouldbeinvited,norallowedtointerferewithanyofthearrangements…Isatinthesunonthefarendoftheterrace,writingthankyounotes,tookbreatherstowanderaboutthelawn,lookoverthewoodstoOysterBay.Istoppedthinkingofanythingbutthephysicalityofthedayofthewedding.Mymotherwasfuriouswhenshefoundmegettingatan.Shetoldmetogointhehouseimmediately,andsaiditwasindecentandlewdforabridetohaveasuntanatherwedding.”Therearemanyotherpage-turningpassagesinNorthofCrazy:lifeinaSwissboardingschoolwhererichadolescentgirlsareparkedbyabsentee,disinterestedparents;chattingwithayoungQueenElizabethIIandPrincePhilipatatonyprivatereceptioninWindsorCastlethatsheandaboardingschoolpalattendedwiththehusbandofDaphneduMaurier;gettingintoanastyconversationduringherowndinnerpartywithpublishinglegendBennettCerfthat

derailedherfirstmarriage;adrunkenauthorwhowasahouseguestcomingafterherwithaknifeinthekitchen…Andthat’sthefirsthalfofthebook.Therawandsensitiveemotionsthatbubbleup,pairedwithNeltje’sgiftfordescriptivedetailthatconjureupeachplace,era,andrememberedconversation,amounttotimetravel.AfterreadingNorthofCrazy,Iresolvetomeetitsauthor,onherhometurf,whichappearsinthefinalupliftingchapters.Inthebook,herfavoritechildhoodmemoriesareofnature—goingfishinginaflat-bottomboatamidthericefieldsaroundtheDoubledayplantation,BonnyHall,inYemassee,SouthCarolina—soperhapsit’snosurpriseshefoundandforgedanewlifeinaspotlesstraveled.Neltje’sWyomingisfarawayfromherposhlifeasayoungmarriedentertainingauthorsatherSuttonPlaceapartment,whilehusbandJohnSargentpresidesoverthetable.AfterextensiveemailsandarrangementswithNeltje’spublicist,IboardaflighttoBillings,Montana.TheAirbusisfilledwithenergyexecutivesandEuropeanvacationersboundforYellowstone.Wetouchdowninasummertwilightatanairportheavywithtrophyheads,panoramicbacklitimagesofgeysersandbears,andlife-sizesculpturesofhorsesandantelopesurroundingthebaggage-claimcarousel.Sothejourneybegins.Waitingcurbsideisadiminutivewomanwhostridesforwardwithgreatenergyanddetermination.IsensethisisMaryJaneEdwards—orMJ,asshegoesby—thecapableartist,administrator,andbestfriendtothewomanwhoinvited(orrather,summoned)mehere,totellherstoryforthefirsttimetoabiggerworld.WebarreldownthemoonlitinterstatetowardWyoming,passingtworoadsidesignsthatanchorusinauniqueplaceintime:LittleBighornNationalBattlefieldandWelcometoCrowCountry.Twohourslater,weexitatSheridan,Wyoming,andwithin20minutesareheadeddownagravelroadtoasprawlinghomestead,whicheveninthedarkonecanseeisquiteextensive.Neltje—whosimplygoesbyherfirstname,andhaditlegallychangedthusso—meetsusdespitethemidnighthour.Sheisnamedafterherpaternalgrandmother,apioneeringnaturalistwhosegardenbookspublishedduringthefirstdecadesofthe20thcenturywerepopularDoubledaytitles.ThegranddaughteranddaughteroftheDoubledaypublishingdynastywhipsupscrambledeggsforourtrioastheclocknears1am.At80,sheisbothwarmandimposing:atall,broad-shoulderedwomaninaflowingcaftan,curlinggrayhairthatextendspasthershoulders,withacolorfulSwatchwatchandabigturquoisering.PartforceofnatureandpartEarthMother,sherulesakingdomofartandnaturewithkindness,strength,andcompassion.Neltje’sspreadsitsalongtheidyllicPineyCreek.Originallyamodestcabinstructureoffewrooms,thehousehasbeenextensivelyexpandedduringherhalf-centuryinWyoming.Roomsaredecoratedwithcomfortablefurniture,craft,andartwork—atoweringaboriginalpaintinghangsabovethefireplace—aswellastribalobjectsofpotentpowers.PersonallygatheredfromlocalsalongtheSepikRiverregionofNewGuineabyNeltjeandMJ,intheregionwhereheadhunterskilledMichaelRockefellerin1961,theartifactslendvitalitytotheinteriors,which

arenotsomuchdesignedasorganizedbyNeltje.Herownab-excanvases—ambitiousinscale,informedbygreatswirlsofpaintandevokingasenseofnatureandlandscapeinpigmentsrangingfromtropicaltoearth-hued—arealsoinevidence,aswellasworksbyanearlymentor,NewYork-basedpainterJonSchueler,whomakesacameoinherbook.Inthefollowingdays,wepayavisittothestudiocomplexattachedtothePineyCreekhouse,andpicnicatherwriter’scabin,LittleCrazy,onthebanksoftheLittleNorthForkofCrazyWomanCreek.Sheisoneofthebest-readpeopleI’veevermet;stacksuponstacksofthelatestfictionandnonfictionreleasesresideineverycornerofthemainresidence,aswellasinLittleCrazy.Herfourindoordogs,allrescues,havelearnedtonavigatethevolumes.Amblingthroughoutthehouse,wereachitsterminus:awell-plannedwingthat’shometoaseriesofstudios.Thefirstisawell-litandperfectlyorganizedspotwithexpansivestorageracksbrimmingwithpaintings(manyquitelarge),aloadingareamarkedbyajauntyreddoor,androllingtablesforcollagework.ThesetupwouldbetheenvyofeveryartistIknow,aswellasmanyacommercialgallery.Itgiveswaytoavastroomwiththeampleproportionsofanonprofitspaceorsmallcontemporarymuseum,withanexpanseofwalls,andleatherpoufsfromwhichtogazeatthecanvasesondisplay—afour-partseriesofher“MoroccanSuite.”Inspiredbyoneofherfavoritetraveldestinations,eachcanvasmeasures10by30feet,andonefromtheseriesgracesthecatalogcovertoher2013museumshowattheUniversityofWyoming,Laramie.Thewordheroicisnounderstatement—whorlsofpigmentflyacrosscanvasesseeminglyasendlessasthehorizonsofWyoming.Anadjoiningroomhasspaceforflatfiles;skylightswashlightintotheroom,whichleadstoacourtyard,oneofthemanyoutdoorgardenrooms;natureisneverfaraway.Thegardens,situatedbetweenthehomeandafieldofhaybales,arefilledwithpoppiesandpeonies.Herlegendaryblossomsarekeptflourishingbyacrewofgardenersandlandscapedesigners.Thebook,outthismonth,isreleasedduringahigh-profileyearforwomen,especiallyinAmericanpolitics—illuminatingonewoman’sjourneyfromaninsecure,oppressedmemberofthe“weaker”sex,tothecapable,forcefulpresenceIencounterinWyoming.HerstoryandtheenvironmentshehascarvedouthastheauraandspiritualityofDonaldJudd’sMarfaorJamesTurrell’sRodinCrater.Asacontemporaryheroine,Neltjeofferstherolemodelfora21st-centuryactivistandenvironmentalistwiththecommitmentofRachelCarson;asanartistshepossessesthesteelytenacityanddoseofeccentricityofLouiseNevelson,LouiseBourgeois,orJoanJonas.IfNorthofCrazygetscastasafilm,DianeKeatonshouldplayNeltje.Epilogue:DuringourWyomingsojourn,welearndetailsofNeltje’sestateplans—todonateherlandsandPineyCreekhometotheUniversityofWyomingforafutureartandnaturecenter.Announcedduring2010,thegiftistodatethelargestevermadetotheuniversity.Thecabins,though,willbebequeathedtoherfamily,tofosterfutureDoubledaygenerations’connectionwiththewildernessthatshapedandrevitalizedNeltje’slife.

MEETTHEAUTHOR/ARTISTANDACQUIREASIGNEDCOPYOFNORTHOFCRAZY(ST.MARTIN’SPRESS),ATHERHOUSTONBOOKLAUNCH:TODAY,TUESDAY,OCTOBER4,6PM,ATBAYOUBENDVISITORCENTER,ANDWEDNESDAY,OCTOBER5,7PM,ATBRAZOSBOOKSTORE.ARTICLEINPAPERCITYMONTHMAGAZINEFORHOUSTON,TEXASSEPTEMBER2016