keya magazine for travelers by travelers • January/february 2014ghana

Blitz AccrA

modern AccrAstyle and Culture p. 4

top three get-AwAysread about the three best seCrets for a meaningful getaway. p. 29

+p. 11

jan & febK e y G h a n a • v o l u m e 1 3 / 2 0 1 4

c o n t e n t s

4

must-do accraHere we invite you to share the unparalleled opportunities that Accra offers.

10coming eventsDiscover Accra’s music, performing arts, galleries, sports etc.

16mapExplore Accra. This travel map includes streets & locations

18beyond accraDiscover the unique wildlife, historical monuments and so much more.

20entertainment indexDiscover Accra’s many venues for music, film & theater

22dining indexFrom fine dining to street food in Accra

24shopping indexShop at neighborhood markets to unique boutiques

26accommodation indexLuxury to budget hotels and holiday rentals

28transportation index29top 3 getawaysRead about the three best secrets for a meaningful getaway.

Key Ghana LTD P.O. Box AT 517 Achimota - Accra

LAure LePLAe-ArThur, Creative Director - laurearthur@ghanakey.com NANA NKeTsiA-eshuN, Country rep. & Accounts executive, nnketsia@ghanakey.com ghanakey.com This magazine is authorized by KeY MAGAZiNes iNC. KeyMagazine.com

To advertise Call:+ 233 244 471 752or (414) 759 924

keyg h a n a

AkwaabaWelcome to Ghana. As the Information Attaché of the

Embassy of Ghana in Washington DC, I am pleased to

invite you to share the unequaled opportunities that our

country offers and to experience all that makes Ghana

a wonderful place to live and visit. Explore our world-

class museums and attractions, including Independence

Square, The Kwame Nkrumah Mausoleum & Museum,

The Ghana National Theater, The National Museum

and much more. We hope that this guide will help you

to explore Accra, whether it’s finding a place to shop,

something to do, a place to stay, or a place to eat. There

are plenty of options for all of these in Ghana. On behalf

of the people of Ghana, I am proud to welcome you to

explore this ever changing country and we wish you a

meaningful and memorable stay.

Sincerely,

Vanessa Mensah-Adu (Mrs.)

Ghana Embassy,Washington DC

Atlantic Oce

an

Accra

Lome

Abidjan

Ada FoahTema

Techiman

Wenchi

Sunyani

Sekondi Takoradi

Tamale

Wa

Kumasi

Bolgatanga

Yendi

Ho

Cape CoastElmina

MoleNational Park

Gbele Game Production

Reserve

Aburi Shai Hills

Kakum National Park

Atewa Forest

TO

GOIV

OR

Y C

OA

ST

BURKINO FASO

DigyaNational Park

Lake

Vol

ta

Bui NationalPark

Boin NationalPark

Ankasa Game Reserve

Nzulezu Stilt Village

Amansuri Lake

Paga

Navrongo Sirigu

PoPulation25,000 000 aREa238,537 sq. kilometers gOVERnMEnTmultiparty Democracy languagesenglish (official), akan, moshi-Dagomba, ewe & Ga.

RELIgIOnSchristian 63%, muslim 16%, indigenous beliefs 21%. CurrenCycedi etHniC grouPsakan 44%, moshi-Dagomba 16%, ewe 13%, Ga 8%, Gurma 3%

f a s t f a c t s a b o u t g h a n a

Accra’s b e s t o f

s t y l e & c u lt u r e accra loves sharing its treasures, and this list will give you a head start. Discover what distinguishes this great metropolis from every other city in the world.

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111 2

3

university of ghana, Legon booKstore

independence squarecommemorates the inde-pendence of Ghana in 1957 as the first african country south of the sahara and is the venue for many national celebrations, dominated by the Independence arch and the memorial to the unknown soldier.

We love the new designs coming out of Ghana! to get in on the fun visit Prestige Boutique in osu and Winglow in east legon. For handbags, african print swimsuits and accessories aya morrison in Dzorwolu, Inka in nyaniba estate for Jewelry and ajePomaa Design Gallery in east legon for gorgeous clothes.

this bookstore is situated in the heart of legon university and is a gem of a bookstore if you are looking for great african literature and textbooks that you can’t find anywhere else.

555

gaLLery hopping

accra sports stadium

artist alliance Gallery is a fantastic african modern art gallery located right on the coast. It is packed with art. three floors of art, sculpture, carvings and artifacts, a haven for anyone looking to be inspired or simply enjoy some incredible work. omanye house. Beach Rd. La, before LaPalm hotelTel: 0245251404also, cool stuff like this, at the hershel Gallery. mankrato Street east cantonments herschelgallery.comTel: 0243380668

4

experience the passion of Ghana soccer. to get in on the fun, buy a copy of the Daily Graphic on a Friday/saturday to get accurate times and dates for the matches taking place that weekend.

Check out the African

writers series, i couldn’t put

this one down.

G h a n a K e y. c o m 76 G h a n a K e y. c o m

ghanaian fashion designers

8 eat fresh pLantain chipsPlantain chips is one of the most common food products you see being sold in traffic in the streets of Ghana, don’t miss out.

G h a n a K e y. c o m 9

If you are looking for an in-sight into Ghanaian culture and life, plunge into one of Accra’s colorful markets and feel life happening around you. Makola is a huge open air market right in the center of Accra. In this bustling market dominated by women one can find just about any-thing for a good price.

99910

Kwame nKrumah memoriaL parK and mausoLeumThis park is dedicated to the founding father of Ghana, Kwame Nkrumah. There is a very decorative and interesting mauso-leum that marks his final resting place. The park is expansive and beautiful, and there are numerous fountains and statues that are dedicated to Ghana’s independence. Keep an eye out for the many beautiful peacocks roaming freely on the grounds.

Lose yourseLf in maKoLa marKet

6 catching some LocaL musicFor centuries music has been an integral part of Ghanaian life. Intensely rhythmic and infused with meaning, music marks the cycles of life, animates religious rituals, and communicates social values. It is therefore not surprising that you will find an abundance of amazing live music in Ghana. (P. 22 lists some of our favorite spots.)

777aburi botanicaL gardens

Make sure to get the guide,Otherwise you will miss small plants like the

mimosa, whose leaflets fold up when you touch

them!

A 65-hector garden with some amazingly large trees along with a variety of beautiful indigenous and exotic plants set in peaceful parkland, that seems to have a special ambience. The drive into the mountains is beautiful. This is an ideal place for a family outing or a picnic.

1 0 G h a n a K e y. c o m

coming eventsJ a n - f e b

Witness/Témoin

short fiLmscontestDeadline Feb 310 Ghanaian short films will be selected to be screened before each long feature film during the Accra francophone film festival. Organized by the Institut Française. Contact: stephanie.soleansky@diplomatie.gouv.fr (p. 13)

edina bronya festivaLJanuary 2elminaDrumming, dancing and masquerading are all a part of this traditional festival celebrating the lives of the ancestors. Observe the prepartions for the overnight fishing as colorful fishing canoes are made ready to go out to sea. (p. 15)

photography exhibitiongoethe Institut - February 3 - march 11 Internationally renown photographers such as: Sammy Baloji (DRC), Calvin Dondo (Zimbabwe), Sabelo Mlangeni (South Africa), Abraham Oghobase (Nigeria), Monique Pelser (South Africa) and Michael Tsegaye (Ethiopia), come together for this unique photo exhibit. (p. 14)

G h a n a K e y. c o m 1 1

events- music

January

g Opoku Mensah ConcertWith magnetic perfor-mances that recall the skills of Ghanaian high life musicians in the 1960s and 70s, Opoku began his music career as a member of a church band then joined the Vision Band a resident group of the National Theatre of Ghana. Come enjoy his next album launch. Goethe Institut, 7pm

h Blitz the Ambassador - Afropolitan DreamThe Brooklyn-based rap-per will launch his 2014 tour in Accra. Born and Raised in Accra, Blitz

The Ambassador now takes the world by storm armed with his 8-piece band. About to release his 3rd album, he already seduced many with Ste-reotype and Native Sun. enjoy a remarkable show made of a unique blend of Hip-Hop and Afrobeat featuring special guests. At the gate: Adults 20 Ghc In advance: 15 Ghc / 10 Ghc for AF students and members, Children under 12 free, Alliance Fran-çaise, 8 pm

February

j La Paillote Takpekpe directed by Wanlov the KubolorJust like in 2013, every last Wednesday of the month, a local emerging artist, will be in charge of organizing an innovative show and present it at

Alliance Française Accra. This month, Wanlov the Kubolor offers us an origi-nal creation to start the new season with style. Adults 2 Ghc,1 Ghc for AF students & members, Children under 12 free, Al-liance Française, 7:30 pm

l Helau & Alaaf at the Goethe InstituteSharing our moments of joy through music, dance and costumes. This year as a prelude to the celebration there will be a mask competition. Since the main costume will be the mask we are throwing up a challenge to interested persons to design the craziest mask for the event. The person with the craziest mask will be rewarded for his/her exceptional creativity. Goethe Institut, 7pm

m u s i c

Blitz the Ambassador

Wanlov the Kubolor

Alliance Française Liberation Link, airport area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.comGoethe-Institut 30 kakramadu Rd (next to naFTI ) cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 / goethe.de

1 2 G h a n a K e y. c o m

f i L m

events - fiLm

screened before each long feature during the Accra francophone film festi-val. The winners will be rewarded with vouchers to buy equipment. All films, must be by a Ghana-ian director, fiction, not more than 12 minutes, in English or submitted with English subtitles if in local language. For more infor-mation contact: stephanie.soleansky@diplomatie.gouv.fr

5 Le nom des gens (The Names of Love)Bahia Benmahmoud doesn’t hesitate to use sex as a weapon to influence her ring-wing political op-ponents. Generally speak-ing, she gets very good results, until she meets Arthur Martin, a discreet forty-year old man, and a big fan of not taking risks. She assumes that with a name like that he must be firmly right-wing. But names are cunning and appearances are decep-tive. Alliance Française, 7pm

6 Love Comes LatelyGermany, Austria, USA 2007, Jan Schütte, 86 mins. Elderly Jewish writ-er Max Kohn (Otto Tausig)

an Austrian émigré whose mind is constantly working causing a state of per-petual confusion. Max has several women interested in seducing him, but he spends most of his time with fellow worrier Reisel (Rhea Perlman). Free, Goethe Institut, 7pm

e La Princesse de Montpensier Mézières is coerced by her father into marrying the Prince of Montpensier, although she has loved Henri, Duke of Guise, since her child-hood. While her spouse goes to war against the Protestants, the young Princess, who unsuccess-fully tries to forget Henri, becomes the focus of rival and violent passions. Alli-ance Française, 7pm

p Le Voyage du di-recteur des ressources humaines After the unfortunate death of one of his employees, the Human-Resources Man-ager of the biggest bakery of Jerusalem has to travel to Romania with the body of the deceased employee in order to polish the im-age of his bakery and to prevent a public-relations disaster for this company.

It is the start of a long voyage from Jerusalem to Romania, during which he will start learning more about the employee’s life.Alliance Française, 7 pm

a Halt Auf Freier Strecke (Stopped on track) Germany 2011, Andreas Dresen, 110 min.Forty-year-old healthy Frank (Milian Peschel) has been diagnosed with an inoperable brain tumor and suddenly condemned to only a few months to live. It’s a shock to a life seemingly on track with a steady job and a new house in the suburbs. But together Frank and his family push through with their daily life of work and school. Free, Goethe Institut, 7pm

G h a n a K e y. c o m 1 3

events - fiLm

Alliance Française Cine-club Liberation Link, airport area Tel: 0302 77 31 34 / afaccra.com 2Ghc / 1Ghc for AF students and members, Children under 12 free.

Goethe-Institut 30 kakramadu Rd (next to naFTI ) cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 / goethe.de

January

9 Der Mann Der Über Autos Sprang The man who jumped over cars Germany 2010, Nick Baker Monteys, 105 min.A backpack is thrown over a wall. Soon after, a young, pale man named Julian (Robert Stadlober) is seen climbing the wall. This is the beginning of a very special odyssey. Julian walks from Berlin to the south of Germany, in order to find healing through walking. On his way he meets Ju (Jes-sica Schwarz), a young resident physician, who is troubled after the death a young patients, she decides to join him. They couldn’t be more differ-ent: He, a dreamer with a

vision and she, a prag-matic realist. Free, Goethe Institut, 7pm

y All That Glitters Ely and Lila are like sisters. They share everything, and known each other since childhood. Today Ely and Lila dream of another life. Through lies, big and small, they attempt to seamlessly enter into a world of luxury that is not their own. Alliance Française, 7pm

d The Rabbis CatIn Algeria, in the 20s, the rabbi Sfar worries about his cat’s cleverness, and how he could badly influence his beautiful daughter, Zlabya. After an assignment from the co-lonial administration and with the help of his cat, the rabbi meets a strange Russian painter on the run. Alliance Française, 7pm

f Barbara Germany 2012 Christian Petzolds, 105 min. Set in 1980, director Christian Petzolds

latest work centres on a doctor (Nina Hoss) exiled to a small town from East Berlin as punishment for applying for an exit visa from the GDR (East Germany). Planning to flee for Denmark with her boyfriend, Barbara starts to lose control, over herself, her plans and over love. Free, Goethe Institut, 7pm

; A Bottle in The Gaza Sea After the kamikaze’s explosion in a coffee shop in her neighborhood, Tal decides to write a letter to an imaginary Palestinian, in which she expresses her questions and feel-ings. After putting the letter inside a bottle and throwing in the Gaza sea, Tal receives a few weeks later an answer from a mysterious Gazaman.Alliance Française, 7pm

February

3 Short Film Contest(deadline Feb 3)10 Ghanaian short films will be selected to be

1 4 G h a n a K e y. c o m

Goethe-Institut 30 kakramadu Rd (next to naFTI ) cantonments Tel: 0302 779 769 / goethe.de

events - art

Witness/Témoin

a rt

January

i Über Bibliotheksfest at Goethe-InstitutAfter a many years of hard work the library is finally open to the public, come share some cocktails in our new library and cel-ebrate its opening! Free, Goethe Institut, 10am

k-x Workshop for Journalists Covering Art & Cultural How to make sure that the arts and cul-tural event stories make the headlines in such a highly politicized environ-ment? The Goethe-Institut is organizing a workshop/training for Journalist with a focus on print and online reporters. with a trainer from DW Academy. Goethe Institut

February

1 Eco-flea Market with the Open Air Stock ExchangeEvery first Saturday of the month. Test a very inter-esting blend of national Ghanaian and interna-tional arts and crafts and some exotic and local culinaria! Buy/sell hand-

made, organic, soaps, garage sale/clearance items, cheap books, CD’s/DVD’s, new/used clothing, crafts, beads, household items, homemade foods and more. For more infor-mation call Yasmeen H. Nsiah at 026 4799 143. Free, Goethe Institut, 10 am - 6pm

3 Witness Témoin Sammy Baloji and Mo-nique Pelser were asked by the Goethe Institut South Africa to co-curate a show showcasing the work of six prominent

African photographers - Sammy Baloji (DRC),Calvin Dondo (Zimbabwe), Sabelo Mlangeni (South Africa), Abraham Ogho-base (Nigeria), Monique Pelser (South Africa)and Michael Tsegaye (Ethiopia).Témoin, trans-lated as Witness, is an exhibition representinghow these groups of emerging African pho-tographers perform the role of active onlooker. Each participant’s work is evidence of a process of critically surveying their immediate environ-ments. The presented works then, by extension, become historical records reflecting a constantly shifting history.Goethe Institut, until March 11

G h a n a K e y. c o m 1 5

events - festivaLs

f e s t i va L s

Festivals are very important in many ways, historically, religiously, socially, economically & culturally. this is a great opportunity to witness Ghana’s rich cultural heritage.

January

Bugum FestivalDagbon, Gonja, Mamprusi and Nanumb Jan 9The fire festival (Bugum) is observed by the Muslims to mark the landing of prophet Noah’s Ark after the flood. It is celebrated in the night with bundles of grass used as torches. Non-Muslims make offerings to their ancestors and God, since the festival marks the beginning of a new year.

Edina Buronya FestivalElmina, 1st week of Jan. This is the native version of Christmas which is

exclusively celebrated by the people of Elmina (Edina). The festival was influenced by the Portuguese settlers who celebrated a similar event every January. For the people of Edina, it is a period of purification, sacrifices to the gods, remembrance of the dead, and the welcoming of a new year. Families pour libations and invite friends to participate in dining, and merry-making, throughout the town.

Rice Festival Is celebrated by the people of Akpafu, in the Volta Region.

Kpini-Kyiu & Tenghana Festivals Is celebrated by the people of Wa & Tongu, in the Upper East Region.

Danso Abaim & Ntoa Fukokuese Festivals Is celebrated by the people of Techimentia & Nkoranza, in the Brong Ahafo Region.

Apafram Festival Is celebrated by the people of Akwamu, in the Eastern Region.

February

Papa Festival Is celebrated by the people of Kumawu, in the Ashanti Region

Dzawuwu FestivalIs celebrated by the people of Dabala, in the Volta Region. It is an Annual traditional and thanksgiving festival of the Agave people.

18th Ln

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National Museum

UNIVERSITY OF GHANA

Achimoto Forest Reserve(New Accra Zoo)

National Film &Television Institute

Goethe Institute

GhanaInternational Trade Fair Center

Next Door

Beach Reso

rt

Kane Kwei

Carpentry

Accra Mall

Accra PoloGrounds

Alliance Française

DeiCenter

Tuesday Market

Korle-BuTeachingHospital

Noguchi Memorial Institute of Medical Research

Legon Bookshop

Arts & CraftsCentre

Nkrumah Memorial Park

Jamestown Lighthouse

Stadium

Makola Shopping Mall

Independence Sq.

National Theater

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PMMC

Global Mamas

Woodin Boutique

DaViva Boutique

Artists Alliance Gallery

Wild Gecko

Dubois Centre for Panafrican

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ACHIMOTA

AKWETEMAN

APENKWA

LAPAZ

TESANO

NORTH KANESHIEACCRA

NEW TOWN

ROMAN RIDGE

AIRPORTAREA

KOTOKAINTERNATIONAL

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KANDAESTATE

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ASYLUM DOWN NORTH RIDGE

WEST RIDGE

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Ada FoahTema

Techiman

Wenchi

Sunyani

Sekondi Takoradi

Tamale

Wa

Kumasi

Bolgatanga

Yendi

Ho

Cape CoastElmina

MoleNational Park

Gbele Game Production

Reserve

Aburi Shai Hills

Kakum National Park

Atewa Forest

TO

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OR

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OA

ST

BURKINO FASO

DigyaNational Park

Lake

Vol

ta

Bui NationalPark

Boin NationalPark

Ankasa Game Reserve

Nzulezu Stilt Village

Amansuri Lake

Paga

Navrongo Sirigu

Beyond Accra discover unique wildlife, historical monuments and so much more.

CaSTLES & fORTSCapE COaST CaSTLEafter the passage of numerous foreign powers, this castle became a British possession in 1664. millions of slaves were shipped to the caribbean and the united states through this castle before becoming the seat of British colonial administration. the cannons still face seaward, stirring the imagination to scenes of exploration, discovery and great tragedy. the museum of West african history, describes the role that

these great structures played in the slave trade.

ELMIna CaSTLEten kilometers west of cape coast castle, elmina castle is the earliest known european structure in the tropics. Built in 1482 by the Portuguese during early world exploration, the castle was taken over by the Dutch in 1637, who retained control for 274 years. Inside the vast fortification is the first catholic church in sub-sahara africa. the castle’s damp, unlit dungeons served as horrific holding

areas for the human cargo of the infamous slave trade.

fort st. Jago Walking distance from elmina castle, this fort unlike others was not used for trading activities but provided military protection to elmina castle. Be sure to bring your camera since it provides an excellent view.

axIM - fORT SanTO anTOnIO

Built by the Portuguese in 1515 and expanded between 1642 and 1872 by the Dutch. It is now run by the Ghana museums and monuments Board and is

beyond Accra

1 8 G h a n a K e y. c o m

beyond accra

wiLdLifeopen to the public. look for the beautiful off-shore islands and lighthouse.

WILdLIfEsHai Hills resourCe reserve the closest wildlife park to accra. the vegetation of shai hills is dry, coastal evergreen savannah and 40% of the park is made up of hills covered with dry forest. major wildlife to be seen include olive baboons, green monkeys, kobs and bushbucks, as well as monitor lizards, pythons and snakes. Bird lovers will also find many bird species including the senegal Parrot, Grey Plantain eater, hornbill, Red northern Bishop and violet turaco and many more. Don’t miss a to visit to one of the three caves, adwuku, sayu or hiewey

MOLE naTIOnaL paRk

mole is about a 1 hour drive from Tamale. Tamale is about 600 km from accra (a 13 hour bus ride, or a 1 hour 20 min plane ride) the largest of its kind in Ghana. Its savannah woodland and forested areas cover a staggering space which measures just less than 5000 square kilometers. you can expect to see antelope, elephants, baboons, warthogs, buffalo, hyenas and if you’re very lucky, a leopard.

lions have recently been re-introduced to the park as well. there are also more than 250 species of birds to enjoy. the park has a simple motel with a pool and restaurant located directly above the elephants’ bathing pond.

OWabI fOREST RESERVE and bird sanCtuary

15km from kumasiWinter home to a variety of migratory birds as well as tropical birds who live there year round. also home to hundreds of the endangered mona monkeys. Further to the northeast is the Bomfobiri Wildlife sanctuary, containing the spectacular Bomfobiri Falls. the salt marshes of the songow lagoon are also worth seeing.

LakE VOLTa

at akosombo Dam, board the yapei Queen ferry and cruise up massive lake volta on a 24-hour trip past wooded hills and farming villages and into Ghana’s arid north, docking at yeji.

amansuri wetland

90 km west of Takoradia complex of peat, swamp and mangrove forests, flood plains, and sandy shores with streams, rivers, a fresh water lake, lagoons and the sea as environmental features. It is the largest intact swamp forest in Ghana

and home to many species of plants and animals. ninety-three of these species made up of reptiles, mammals and birds are of global and national conservation interest.

bIRdIngghana bIRd WaLkS

Join a monthly bird walk on the last saturday of every month from 7am to 9am. the birdingsite and meeting point for each month will be communicated.contact Samuel Temidayo Tel: 0234237732 taymida@yahoo.co.ukor Reuben ottou Tel: 0244 893 528 reubenott@yahoo.co.uk

bobiri butterfly sanCtuary

Located 30km from kumasi and about 25km from konogo, along the kumasi-accra highway. Tel: 024 646 5993, a bewildering experience as clouds of mud-puddling Whites and yellows take flight as well as swallowtails and Pure Gold or Red Gliders, mother-of-Pearls’. the butterflies are plentiful. there are also very good guided tours of the plants, explaining their interesting commercial and medicinal uses. the guesthouse on site serves basic food, and has a pleasant staff.

G h a n a K e y. c o m 1 9

nightlife FireFly lounge BAr 811th lane, Osutel: 030 277 7818 Glammy and chic you would be forgiven to think that you’ve arrived in a high-end New York or London cocktail bar. Cool decor, metal and exposed brick, extensive drink selection, and DJs. Food is available.

AphrodisiAc 235 Osu Badu street, dzOrwulutel: 0302 766 738 DJs serve a mix of hip hop and R&B, hip life, garage and techno. Ladies night on Thursdays. Fridays DJ Flava Nite open from 11pm - 6am

+233 jAzz BAr & grill 375 ring rd, nOrth ridgetel: 0244 276 027Ghana’s premiere jazz and live music club.Open until 4 am on week-ends

cuzzy Bro 6trOas st, Osu tel: 026 608 6003Formally known as the Irish Pub, this is Ghana’s newest family venue, revamped with a whole new menu, outdoor garden bar, cocktail lounge and live entertainment.

duplex2nd KuKu clOse Off OxfOrd st, OsuDefinitely the most down to earth place you will find.

jokers 4laBadi rOad, latel: 024 4370752 Not very far from La Beach, this is a very popular place to play pool, tourists & locals meet here to have a drink and a game.

chAmps 5next tO PalOma hOtel, KOKOlemletel: (0) 240 959 406Was Champs, then was Lexington now is Champs again. Football, beer and pizza on Wednesdays, Quiz night on Thursdays, Karaoke on Fridays, Salsa on Saturdays. next door BeAch resortBeach rOad, teshie (OPPOsite the military academy)tel: 024 4318697Live music on weekends, Sunday after-noons catch some traditional song and dance performances.

the one2one BAr mövenPicK hOtel, centralA chic cocktail bar where you can escape, socialize and launch your evening in style to the sound of African lounge music or live performances.

the repuBlic BAr & grill 13rd lane KuKu hill, Osutel: 024 631 4044This place has quickly become the hot spot in Accra. Like the every-week-kind-of-spot to chill, catch up with friends, and listen to some cool music over beer and food. They have live music every Wednesday.

roBi’s dutch puB 7dade walKstreet 14, laBOne tel: 0242201087The only authentic Dutch pub in Ghana, with Dutch cuisine, beer, music and ambiance.

filmsilverBird cinemAfirst flOOr, shOP 39, accra mall, tetteh Quashie interchangetel: 021 823270-4silverbirdghana.com

EntErtainmEnt

2 0 G h a n a K e y. c o m

Firefly Lounge Bar

goethe-institut 30 KaKramadu rd, cantOnments tel: 0302 779 769 Regularly show films on Thursdays. www.goethe.de

drama / musicAlliAnce FrAnçAise AccrAliBeratiOn linK - airPOrt residentialtel: 0302 773 134 A large producer of cultural events in Accra, including live music, poetry readings, theater, art exhibits and much more, that reflect the diversity and the quality of France and Africa’s artistic offer. afaccra.com

nAtionAl theAtre oF ghAnAsOuth liBeria rOad, centraltel: 0244272884This elegant and imposing theater is the hub of music and theater in Accra. It houses The National Symphony Orchestra, The National Dance Company and The National Drama Company. It is also a regular venue for Ghana’s world acclaimed satirist Kwaku Sintim-Misa popularly called KSM.

nuBuke FoundAtion7 adamafiO clOse, east legOntel: 028 910 21 63nubukefoundation.orgEnjoy programs ranging from drama and music to art exhibitions, poetry, and films.

artAFiA gAllery nO. 2 liBeria rd ext, Osutel: 0302 681465Packed with local wood carvings and crafts.afiavillage.com

Artists AlliAnce gAllery Omanye hOuse. Beach rd, la BefOre laPalm hOteltel: 0245251404A fantastic African modern art gallery located right on the coast. The gallery is huge and more museum-like; three floors of fabric, paintings, sculptures, and odds and ends like coins and games.

hershel gAllery

manKratO st, east cantOnments tel: 0243380668herschelgallery.com

kAne kwei cArpentry workshopteshie first JunctiOntel: 0244 114719 / 5Workshop of Seth Kane Kwei who invented the famous design coffins in the 1950’s which are carved into shapes that represent something important and relevant to the deceased person, such as a fish, airplanes, etc. Meet Eric Adjetey Anang, grandson of Kane Kwei, and hear stories about these fantastic coffins.

histOrykwAme nkrumAh mAusoleum & museumhigh st., centraltel: 233 671 610An obligatory visit for history buffs. Dr. Nkrumah serves as a loose approximation of George Washington for Ghana. This museum is an introduction to a complex personality. It is a great source of information, including photos of Nkrumah with a wide range of world leaders, his books, his clothing, and artifacts.

nAtionAl museum oF ghAnA AccrABarnes rd, centraltel: 021-221633Established in 1957, this museum’s collection ranges from pre-historic, archaeological discoveries, to colonial antiquities and exhibits of contemporary African art. Don’t miss the outdoor sculpture garden. Open from 9am - 5pm Tuesday through Sunday

w.e.B. duBois center2nd circular rd, cantOnmentsThis is the home, library and final resting place of American-born crusader for social justice, William Edward Burghardt DuBois.

G h a n a K e y. c o m 2 1

arts & culturE

africanghAnAiAn villAge restAurAntla Palm rOyal Beach hOtelnO 5 la ByPass rdtel: 0302 215100lA

BukA 10th Lane Tel: 030 2782953 osu

christine’s unique cAFé150m Off ring rdat nima JunctiOntel: 0302 222 265

chez AFriquenear yemOh Plaza tel: 030 2911591eAst legon

country kitchen 2nd ringway estatestel: 0302229107osu

le grAnd ecuyerring rOad, Just west Of danQuah circle

tel: 0302 768 64

mAquis tAnte mArie5th nOrla linK tel: 0244612832maquistantemarie.comlABone

next doorrestAurAnt Beach rd (OP. the military academy) tel: 024-4318697next-door.com teshie

old BoB’s plAceniger hse, 59 OKadantel: 028 8266378 osu

the orAngery crepe & sAlAd BAr farrar avetel: 030 2232988AdABrAkA

pApAye cantOnments rdnear mtn stOretel: 030 2773754osu

chOP BarsChop Bars range from a woman serving dishes

out of a bowl on the side of the road to sit down spots with full kitchens. Here are few that we recommend:

AsAnkA locAl 18th lanetel: 0302786328This is good place to go if you are looking for a local experience. Find delicacies like Banku, fufu, soups, chicken etc. osu

Auntie muni wAAkye Off JOsiah tOngOgari st & OrPhan cres., tel: 233246980070Though it looks like little more than a roadside stand Aunti Muni’s is one of the most popular spots for weekend Wakeye.cAntonments

peAce pAlAceOff Of 6th staccrOss ecOBanKosu

seafOOd cAptAin hooks4 KaKramandu sttel: 0302762228 cAntonments

fast fOOdBArcelosOP. dynasty chinese tel: 030 2933784osu

chicken repuBliccantOnments rdsOuth Of PaPayetel: 030 2775496osu

kFccantOnments rd

osu

asianroyAl drAgon chinese restAurAntla Palm rOyal Beach hOtelnO 5 la ByPass rdtel: 0302 215100lA

dynAsty restAurAntOxfOrd sttel: 030 2775496osu

noBel houseKuKu hill, salem rdtel: 0302785151osu

zion thAi restAurAntOKOdan & missiOn st PaPaye dOwntel: 054-996-7644Try spicy penang curry, true pad thai, and lots of vegetarian options. Afterwards, enjoy a sweetened Thai iced tea. osu

pAdthAi restAurAnt10 mOnrOvia rdtel: 0302962788eAst legon

italianArlecchino 674 OxfOrd sttel: 0245 410 403osu

BellA romA fOurth lanetel: 024 74 74 007osu

eddy’s pizzA66 ring rOadtel: 54 413 3397 centrAl

2 2 G h a n a K e y. c o m

dining

La Tante DC 10 Restaurant

La Chaumiere

il cAvAliere pezzoaccra POlO grOunds tel: 0302 823131 Airport res

mAmA miA pizzeriA7th lanetel: 0244 264 151osu

osteriA michel-AngeloshOuse nO.3 nOrtei aBadiO sttel: 024 4233533Airport res

picAssocrOwn aPartamentO Premisestel: 0302771712Airport res

the venueadamafiO linKtel: 024 3323425 eAst legon

indianheritAge indiAnOff salem rdnOBle chinese restaurant Bldgtel: 0302785151osu

koh-i-noorgrisfarm hOtelOff firsttel: 030 2771999osu

tAndoor indiAn near land tOurs tel:0243 151 417lABone

leBaneseBAshAKOJO thOmPsOn rd niagara hOtelAdABrAkA

le mAgellAn restAurAnt ring rOad east at laBOne JunctiOntel: 0302 777 629Also serves French food. osu

westernBus stop BAr & restAurAnt Tel: 0302220930AdABrAkA

the lexingtonnext tO the PalOma hOtel in the KOKOlemle neighBOurhOOdtel: 0240 959 406Serves deep fried brie, bruschetta, burgers, pulled pork.

white Bellcnr farrar avadaBraKatel: 0302227066

FrAnkiescantOnments rd tel: 0302 77 35 67 osu

little indiAn sunshine sAlAd BAr11th lanetel: 030 2780599osu

sAnkoFA restAurAnt mövenPicK hOteltel: 0302611000centrAl

sPanishel gAuchoaBreBrensemtel: 0289117575osu

Britishhoneysuckle

BAr ring rdtel: 030 2780774osu

cuzzy Bro trOas st tel: 026 608 6003osu

frenchlA chAumiere215 liBeratiOn rdTel: 0302772408Sophisticated French dishes have been delighting Accra for more than a decade.Airport res

cAFé chez des Amis liBeratiOn rd, acrOss frOm french emBassy

le must nO 28, OrPhan crescenttel: 0244661069 north lABone

nicolinoalliance françaises liBeratiOn linKtel: 024 462 9656 Airport res

le tAndem6 manKralO st tel: 030 2762959

livingstone sAFArinear aKai hOuseacrOss frOm KOhinOOrtel: 024 6485135osu

JaPanese3121 sushi14th lane

Behind Barclays tel: 026 777 3121Seafood-grill, cocktail bar & cigar lounge, sushi/teppanyaki barsmoncnz@hotmail.com

monsoon41 OxfOrd st OsuaBOve Osu fOOd cOurttel: 030 2782307

cafejosie’s cuppA cAppuccino3rd clOse, Tel: 030 2773412Airport res

‘n’ cAFénuBuKe fOundatiOn, tel: 028 910 21 63 eAst legon

Brunchmelting mo-mentsnO. 78/5, 1st nOrla sttel: 0302770834lABone

lABAdi BeAch hotelnO.1 la ByPass tel: 030 277 2501/6lA

lA pAlm royAl BeAch hotel

G h a n a K e y. c o m 2 3

dining

marKets

mAkolA mArketKOJO thOmPsOn rd Dominated by women this bustling market of Accra is situated right in the center of the city. There you will find: jewelry, fabrics, plastic hair decorations, traditional Ghanaian glass beads, batiks, wigs, bags, shoes, toiletries, as well as shea butter, fish, beans, meat, vegetables, fruit, flour, eggs, pots & pans, grills and much more. centrAl

mAlAtA mArketelePhant walK rdIf you want a true local market experience, you’ll find it here. No tourists, no African masks, no tourist handcrafts, but you will have the opportunity to eat some authentic Ghanian fare

malls

AccrA mAllsPintex rd, tetteh Quarshie interchangeaccramall.com Airport AreA

suPermarKets

koAlA supermArketOff danQuah circle at cantOnments rdtel: 0302773455Excellent assortment of local and imported goods; bread selection is highly recommended. Carries Cottage Farms frozen pork. koalashop.com.gh osu

shopriteaccra mall tel: 0302823020 Airport AreA

crafts

centre For nAtionAl culture28th feBruary rd tel: 021 664099A sea of stalls selling arts and crafts. It is also referred to as the Arts Centre. This is the place to shop in Accra for crafts. The level of aggressive hassling may discourage you but if

you have the patience you can come away with good-quality handicrafts from all over Ghana. centrAl

loom117 Kwame nKrumah avetel: 0302224746Sells spectacular paintings as well as woodcarvings, fabrics and statues. centrAl

gloBAl mAmAs14th lane near KOala suPermarKettel: 24 453 0467globalmamas.org osu

wild gecko hAndicrAFtsnear tetteh Quarshie exchangetel: 030 250 8500 Unique handcrafted furniture, household decorations, accessories & jewelry. www.wild-gecko.com cAntonments

wOOdwOrK

ABuri cArving centeraKwaPim ridge On the way tO the aBuri tOwn center Here craftmen can be seen at work on magnificent carvings and drums which are available for purchase. If you are feeling creative, you can actually design your own piece. ABuri

2 4 G h a n a K e y. c o m

shopping

Ohema Ohene opens her first shop at Nubuke Foundation.

Jewelry

pmmcmarK cOfie Buildingtel: 233 (0)302664579Find diamonds and gold directly from local small-scale miners . Find a variety of jewelry we especially love the unique jewelry representing traditional Ghanaian symbols. pmmcghana.com centrAl

inkA la crescent tel: 233 20 030 8618 Exquisite hand crafted African jewelleryosu nyAniBA estAte

mOdern art

Artists AlliAnceOmanye hOuse tel: 0245251404A fantastic African modern art gallery located on the coast. Packed with artistic expression. Three floors of art, sculpture, carvings and artifacts. The best part is that most of it is for sale. artistsallianz.com lA

BOOKstOres

silverBird Bookstoreaccra mall tel: 030 282 3270-5Current fiction, nonfiction, business and religious books. Airport AreA

university Bookshopuniversity Of ghana legOn tel: 0302 500398Current fiction, nonfiction & textbooks. Great if you are looking for books by localauthors. legon

faBric & fashiOn

woodin BoutiqueOxfOrd st tel: 0302764371A temple of high fashion fabrics. 14 artists create ever changing designs. osu

dA vivA Boutique17th lane tel: 0289529770Pure cotton fabric with a subtle mix of elegance and color. osu

kiki clothingaccra malltel: 020 817 4362Unique ethnic designs for children and adults. Airport AreA

winglow 13 Mensa Wood Street tel: 0302510321Exclusive embroidered wear for women and men. Western styled clothing in African print. Interior decoration utilizing a blend of African and other fabrics.www.winglow.com eAst legon

AyA morrison 23 Nii Bonnie Crescenttel: 0302 956 355 Handbags, African print swimsuits & accessories dzorwolu

AjepomAA design gAllerynO.8 addO clOse tel: 026 564 5284For gorgeous clothes eAst legon

ohemA ohene shopnuBuKe fOundatiOn, 7 adamafiO clOsetel: 233 (28) 910 21 63 eAst legon

G h a n a K e y. c o m 2 5

Higher Link

Higher LinkFor FAst And eAsy customs cleAring And ForwArding

Located at the aviance cargo village

Priscilla: (233) 244145647Joe: (233) 240066188.White: (233) 233540898759 John: (233) 245045033

shopping

resOrtslABAdi BeAch hotel 4nO.1 la ByPass, accra tel: +233 (30) 277 2501/6 labadi@legacyhotels.comBeautiful and well maintained. Includes a health club, an outdoor pool, a fitness facility, and a children’s pool, a business center, small meeting rooms, and secretarial services. lA

lA pAlm royAl BeAch hotel 35 la ByPasstel: 233 30221 5100/5111gbhghana.netFeaturing 152 rooms, each with its own private balcony, laid out in chalet fashion, creating the feeling of a village complete with 8 bars and restaurants, large swimming pool, souvenir shops, fitness center & casino. lA

luxurythe AFricAn regent 5237-238 airPOrt west, tel: 233 302765180A refreshing taste of Africa in a classy establishment. Enjoy an enviable collection of African Art. A spa, a health club, outdoor pool, a fitness facility, wireless Internet in public areas. cAntonments

the AknAc hoteltrasaccO valleytel: 233 302824235theaknachotel.comIn the peaceful suburbs of Accra near Trasacco Valley within easy reach of the city centre. This boutique hotel offers style, charm and personal service. Includes a restaurant, bars and an outdoor pool. Complimentary breakfast and wireless internet access.

the mövenpick AmBAssAdor hotel 1indePendence ave, ridge tel: +233 302611000moevenpick.com Ideally located in the central business district of downtown Accra, close to major financial institutions, the International Conference Centre

and government ministries. The Hotel has 260 rooms include 61 Executive Club Rooms, 15 Junior Suites with balconies and view of the Swimming Pool, one Ambassador Suite & a 320sqm Presidential Suite.

villA monticello 8nO.1a manKata ave linK airPOrt residential tel: 233 302773477villamonticello.comA boutique hotel in the heart of Accra with beautifully designed themed rooms - the

Marrakech suite is our favorite. Restaurant, outdoor pool, full-service spa, bar/lounge. Televisions with digital channels.

mOderateAFiA AFricAn villAge $65-170 22 liBeria rOad Osu tel: 233 302681465afiavillage.comAfia African Village is sensitively designed to take full advantage of the expansive ocean views and cooling sea breezes. Its traditionally styled architecture evokes the very essence of Africa. Singles, doubles and family suites. Breakfast included.

Bojo BeAch resort $160-270Off the Old weiJa Barrier tel: 233.302.912.946bojobeachresort.comWith 35 guestrooms and suites, this retreat in the suburbs of Accra is perfect if you are looking to be in the city but enjoy the privacy and luxury of being far away. Enjoy the ocean and mountain views as well as high speed wireless internet.kokroBite

hillBuri ABuri $150gyanKama tel: 0244385008 www.hillburi.comBlending modern style with strong colonial and African influences, lovely comfortable king size beds, fluffy duvets and pillows and thick towels, spectacular views overlooking the surrounding

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accommodations

hills. Includes a bar, restaurant, infinity swimming pool. ABuri

mAhogAny lodge $175-195 qnO. 9, KaKramadu linKtel: 233-302-761162mahoganylodge.comA very pretty courtyard with pool. Two computers with free wireless. eAst cAntonments

Bed & BreaKfastspintex inn $60#1 fOurth nii KwaOfiO linK, sPintextel: 0207768243spintexinn.com spintex

BudgetBlue royAl hotel $69-$129nO 36. 18th lane Off cantOment rd tel: (0)302) 783075blueroyalghana.com osu

new AmpAx hotel $20-40achimOta rd. POKuaKe JunctiOntel: (0)302-932158ampaxhotelgh.com Asylum down

FrAnkies 9 cantOnments rd.tel: 0302 77 35 67 nii@frankiesghana.com osu

stArlite lodge nO 2 vOlta river ave. teshi-nungua estates tel: 233 302 712829starlitelodge-ghana.com

pink hostel w from $20 w/ breakfast tel: 233-302-256710/256712phostel@busymail.com.gh Asylum downfrom $20 (with continental breakfast)

BeduA home suites $40-60tel: 233-241-234-234nO 58 genesis estates at mariville Off sPintex rOad in a gated cOmmunity

huts & cOttagesBig milly’s BAck yArd GHc17-125tel: 0249 999 330 Or 0262 999 330www.bigmilly.com Twenty rooms, all have fans and are beautifully decorated with African art. Double huts are of local clay bricks with thatched roofs. Most cottages are self contained. Several have A/C. 150 trees and a large menagerie of pets in the garden.Entertainment on Friday and Saturday nights. kokroBite

hOliday rentalslegAssi gArdens ApArtments addis avenue,POKuase JunctiOn,near acP estates JunctiOntel: 233 277 522229legassigardens@hotmail.comFurnished and serviced apartments, in serene garden setting. Listen to our many birds, watch our garden butterflies, and play a game of Oware under the palm frond canopy! Convenience /craft store on-site & vegetarian café.

lA-pArAdise inn rtel: 233 302 7620854th Ostwe street sOuth la estate In the heart of vibrant Osu area, these apartments are surrounded by a diverse array of shops and restaurants. Each apartment has a modern living space, internet access and satellite t.v. Outside enjoy the swimming pool and the tropical garden. lA

G h a n a K e y. c o m 2 7

accommodations

Villa Monticello

2 8 G h a n a K e y. c o m

dOmestic air: AntrAk Airtel: (233) (0) 302 765377, 765378antrakair.comWholly Ghanaian owned has flights to Kumasi, Takoradi, Sunyani, Tamale and Wa.

Fly 540tel: (233) (0) 202 250 208fly540africa.comOffers internal flights to several locations around Ghana. They fly from Accra to Kumasi, Takoradi, Tamale and Sunyani.

Buses: stc (State Transport Corporation)Tel: (233-21) 221-912 or 252-835 or 221-314The main, government owned and operated, intercity coaches. You should buy the tickets in advance so that you are given an assigned seat. Buses from Accra to Tamale leave daily at 7am and 3pm, a 9 am bus continues on to Bolgatanga. Buses from Tamale to Accra run daily at 6.30am and 4pm, Kumasi at 7am (10am weekends). A service from Tamale to Takoradi runs twice a week, at 8am on Tuesdays and 3pm on Saturday. viptel: 0544357030, 0544357038vipjeoun@yahoo.comAir conditioned clean buses to Kumasi. There are two levels of bus – one with larger seats and more leg room for marginally more money. Buses run frequently all day and night. A good alternative for a long drive.

oA trAvel And tourstel: 0243-3177620tamale: 0242-767694 / 0208-083644Kumasi: 03220-41925200m from STC station in Accra, OA offers very new buses for a reasonable price. Leaving at 3pm daily from Bolgatanga to Accra, GHc30.00. It leaves Tamale to Accra daily at 5pm, for GHc25.00. Booking tickets in advance is recommended.

car rentals: AtlAs rent-A-cArTel: 024 427 7871

ghAnA-cAr-rentAls.com tel: 0.264.264.246ghana-car-rentals.comA one-stop-shop for online car hire in Ghana. With a wide selection of vehicles for personal as well as business car rental needs.

transportation

3top

ta m a L elocated in the northern part of the country, it is like a conglomeration of villages where one can find an architectural blend of traditional mud houses

1 Central mosque The most impressve building in the whole of Tamale definitely is the Central mosque that is visible from almost everywhere in the city’s center. Outside of the praying hours you are welcome to visit the mosque at any time. It is possible to even enter the narrow corridor inside the dome, the highest point of the mosque. From the second floor you can get a great view of the city.

2 VILLagE bEhInd aSMEpE LOdgE Visit authentic village where you will see how people in these villages go about their daily lives. You will see women pick the green fruit of the shea nut tree –to create shea butter that has a multiplicity of traditional uses, from healing to cooking daily stews.

3 CEnTER fOR national Culture

Check out the stalls around the Center for National Culture, it is just as good as most arts and crafts markets, there you can find local crafts, cloth and beads. The busy market is also a good place to have a drink and play ping pong or pool.

4 CEnTRaL MaRkET

Another must-see in Tamale is the central market, in the heart of town. On the outside of the market you will find bigger items ranging from bicycles to coffins. Inside find dried fish, rice, pigheads, cowlegs, and also fresh vegetables, spices, typical Ghanaian red oil and lots of delicious fruit. Along with food you will find a lot of kitchen gear and colorful cloth. The best way to see it and to find something is just to start wandering around.

How to get tHere: Antrak flies between Tamale and Accra (us $144, 1¼ hours). From the sTC station, two buses a day go to Kumasi (us $10, six hours) and four a day depart for Accra (ordinary/luxury us $10/16, 12 hours). There’s also a Tuesday service to Cape Coast and Takoradi (us$11, 12 hours).

G h a n a K e y. c o m 3 1

e L m i n aRich in history this town is home to some of the oldest castles and forts in West africa.

1 elMIna CaSTLE Was erected by Portugal in 1482. It is the oldest European building in existence below the Sahara. First established as a trade settlement, it later became one of the most important stops on

the route of the Atlantic slave trade.

2 elMIna LagOOn Elmina Lagoon provides the pulse of the fishing village that surrounds it. With an overflow of activity as people go

about their daily routine, in this case setting out to sea to catch fish in a wide array of colorful boats.

How to get tHere: Cape Coast sTC station, Pedu Junction Goil Filling stationTel: 0332196811

a da f oa ha small town east of accra where the volta River and the sea join to create a unique ecosystem.

1 VOLTa RIVER estuary Here the sea and the river join creating big waves. You will also find a wildlife paradise: marine turtles, birds, crocodiles, monkeys and in the salty parts mangrove

vegetation. This unique ecosystem makes it ideal conditions for sailing, canoeing, fishing, water skiing, wake boarding.

2 ada fOah bEaCh Long, sandy beaches with coconut trees and

fishermen with their boats and nets, you will be challenged with the decision of where to swim first – the calm and shallow river or the wild, wavy ocean.

How to get tHere: regular Tro-Tros connection (1 1/2 to 2 1/2 hours, about 120 km) from Tudu station

3 0 G h a n a K e y. c o m