A natural silicone alternativein skin care productswww.floratech.com

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1 NATURALS

PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Reprinted from September 2018

A natural silicone alternativein skin care productsn Tiffany Quinn MS, Robert A Harper PhD – Floratech, US

Floramac® 10 [INCI: Ethyl Macadamiate] isderived from Macadamia Oil (Macadamiaintegrifolia), and is widely used in a varietyof cosmetic and personal care products forboth skin and hair care applications.Floramac 10 is not only functional, but alsoprovides favorable product aesthetics. Itsmany attributes include assisting in thedispersion and solubilization ofsunscreens;1 providing a dry emolliency,giving formulas a silky skin feel similar tothat of cyclopentasiloxane (without thevolatility); and imparting a degree of skinhydration greater than silicones.Additionally, Floramac 10 can be used inoil-free products, while still impartingsome of the benefits of natural botanicaloils. It can be gelled to mimic theproperties of medium viscosity silicones,and can be used in combination withsilicones.

Silicones, particularly volatile siliconeslike D4 and D5, have recently come underscrutiny.2 Silicones are used in a variety ofskin care formulations for sensoryattributes and hydration, as well as in haircare formulations for conditioningproperties. This article will discuss thefunctional and sensory aspects of Floramac10 and how it can be used as analternative for silicones.

Mimicking the sensory profile ofsilicones3

Neat Floramac 10, or gelled Floramac 10(indicated with a + sign), was compared toa variety of neat silicones of varyingviscosities (Table 1). Each silicone / siliconealternative pair (as listed in Table 1), wascompared by female consumers (n=27) ona 1-5 scale for initial product evaluations(initial) and skin-feel post-application (30minutes) observations. The higher thescore, the more the listed attribute wasperceived by consumers (e.g. a score of 5for moisturization indicates moisturizedskin, whereas a score of 1 indicates dryskin). For the texture attribute, a higherscore indicates a thicker silicone or siliconealternative. The results for each pair appearin Figures 1-5.

The data in Figure 1 show initially therewere few perceivable differences betweenFloramac 10 (now referred to as ‘ethylmacadamiate’) and cyclopentasiloxane;however, 30 minutes post-application,ethyl macadamiate left the skin perceivablymore glossy, silky / smooth, andmoisturized.

The data in Figure 2 show fewperceivable differences between the gelled

ethyl macadamiate and dimethicone (5cs)for initial product observations and skinfeel attributes 30 minutes post-application.

The data in Figure 3 show initiallydimethicone (10 cs) was visually moreglossy, more transparent, wetter, andthinner (texture); however, there were fewperceivable differences in skin feelattributes between the gelled ethylmacadamiate and dimethicone (10 cs) 30

Figure 1: Floramac 10 versus cyclopentasiloxane.

Figure 2: Floramac 10+4 versus dimethicone (5 cs).

Table 1: Physical properties of silicones and silicone alternatives.

Test Emollient Viscosity (cP) Refractive IndexFloramac 10 7 – 8 1.44Cyclopentasiloxane 4 – 5 1.40Floramac 10+4 7 – 8 1.45Dimethicone (5cs) 5 – 6 1.40Floramac 10+5 303 – 304 not transparentDimethicone (10cs) 10 – 11 1.40Floramac 10+6 548 – 549 not transparentDimethicone (20cs) 19 – 20 1.40Floramac 10+7 77 – 78 not transparentDimethicone (100cs) 96 – 97 1.40

Visual Gloss

Texture

Spreadability

Wetness

Visual Transparency

Absorbency**

Moisturization**

Gloss**

Stickiness

SlipperinessSilky/Smooth**

Moisturization**

Gloss**

Stickiness

SlipperinessSilky/Smooth**

Visual Gloss

Texture

Spreadability

Wetness

Visual Transparency

Absorbency

Statistical (**) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05)

Statistical (**) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05)

Floramac 10Cyclopentasiloxane

Floramac 10+4

Dimethicone (5cs)

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NATURALS 2

Reprinted from September 2018 PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA

minutes post-application. The data in Figure 4 show initially

dimethicone (20 cs) was visually more glossy,more transparent, and thinner (texture) thanthe gelled ethyl macadamiate; however, 30minutes post-application, the gelled ethylmacadamiate left the skin perceivably moreglossy, silky / smooth, and moisturized.

The data in Figure 5 show initiallydimethicone (100 cs) was visually more glossy,more transparent, wetter, and thinner(texture); however, 30 minutes post-application, the gelled ethyl macadamiate leftthe skin perceivably glossier.

The sensory studies shown in this paperindicate that ethyl macadamiate can be usedto mimic silicones with a viscosity of ≤100 cP.Although physical properties and initialobservations of the neat ingredients varybetween ethyl macadamiate and therespective silicones, skin-feel as perceived bythe consumer was very similar. The mostnotable differences between the siliconealternatives and silicones were that ethylmacadamiate produced greater skinhydration, gloss, and silkiness / smoothness asperceived by consumers.

Consumer preferenceEthyl macadamiate was compared tocyclopentasiloxane in a clear under-eye stickproduct by female consumers (n=31) in ablinded fashion immediately after one use,and after seven days of twice daily use. Theresults appear below in Figure 6.

The results presented in Figure 6 weresimilar to the sensory studies comparing neatethyl macadamiate and cyclopentasiloxane(Fig 1). Eighty seven percent of the consumerspreferred the skin hydration provided by ethylmacadamiate versus cyclopentasiloxane, andethyl macadamiate left the skin feeling silkierthan cyclopentasiloxane.

Increased skin radiance andhydration Ethyl macadamiate, gelled ethylmacadamiate, and the respective silicones(see Table 1) were also evaluated at 5% in avery simple o/w emulsion (0.20%Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer,0.06% Aminomethyl Propanol, and q.s.Water) for skin radiance and hydration. Oneapplication of each test article was made tothe dry outer legs of female subjects (n=17).Skin radiance measurements using theGlossymeter GL 200 and skin hydrationmeasurements using the Corneometer CM8258 (both in triplicate) were taken at baseline,and 30 and 60 minutes post-test articleapplication, respectively. The results for eachpair appear below in Figure 7.

The data in Figure 7 show the inclusion ofethyl macadamiate increased skin radiance andhydration (p<0.05) more than each respectivesilicone, which also supports the results seen inthe sensory study (Figures 1, 4, and 5).

Figure 4: Floramac 10+6 versus dimethicone (20 cs).

Figure 3: Floramac 10+5 versus dimethicone (10 cs).

5

4

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2

1

0

5

4

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2

1

0

Visual Gloss**

Texture**

Absorbency**

Visual Transparency**

Wetness

Spreadability

Slipperiness

Stickiness**

Gloss**

Moisturization**

Silky/Smooth**

Floramac 10+6

Dimethicone (20cs)5

4

3

2

1

0

5

4

3

2

1

0

Stickiness**

SlipperinessSilky/Smooth

Moisturization

GlossFloramac 10+5

Dimethicone (10cs)

Visual gloss**

Visual Transparency**

Wetness**

Texture**

Absorbency

Spreadability

Statistical (**) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05)

Statistical (**) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05)

Figure 5: Floramac 10+7 versus dimethicone (100 cs).

Figure 6: Increased consumer preference with Floramac 10.

Slipperiness

Stickiness**Moisturization**

Silky/Smooth**

Floramac 10+7

Dimethicone (100cs)5

4

3

2

1

0

5

4

3

2

1

0

Visual Gloss**

Texture**

Spreadability

Wetness**

Visual Transparency**

Absorbency**

Gloss**

Statistical (**) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05)

Statistical (**) and directional (*) significance was apparent where indicated (p<0.05 and p<0.1, respectively).

Floramac 10Cyclopentasiloxane

100%

80%

60%

40%

20%

Moisturization**(7 days)

Silky Skin**(7 days)

Moisturization**(1 application)

Least Appearance of Wrinkles**(7 days)

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3 NATURALS

PERSONAL CARE NORTH AMERICA Reprinted from September 2018

ConclusionFloramac 10 is a moisturizing mixture ofmacadamia esters.

Floramac 10 leaves a silky, smooth after-feel similar to cyclopentasiloxane andprovides excellent oxidative stability, highspread, and low slip.

Naturally-derived ingredients, such asFloramac 10, that offer functionality similar tosilicones can be very useful to skin and haircare applications, particularly with theregulatory and health issues surroundingvolatile silicones. Floramac 10 is a dryemollient that can be used to provide asimilar skin feel to silicones, in addition toproviding functionality such as skin radianceand hydration. Previous studies have alsodemonstrated that Floramac 10 providesconditioning benefits to hair care productssimilar to those provided by silicones.9 Theresults of all of these studies offer formulatorsan effective natural alternative to silicones inskin and hair care applications.

References: 1 Oliphant T, Harper R. Benefits of Naturally-

Derived Ingredients in Sunscreens. Personal Care Europe 2016; 10(16): 45-47

2 https://tinyurl.com/ydgdzste3 All studies were IRB-approved, randomized,

double-blind, and vehicle-controlled.4 Gelled with 0.5% CAB-O-Sil M-5, INCI: Silica (Cabot).

PC

5 Gelled with 5.0% Nomcort® SG, INCI: GlycerylTribehenate/Isostearate/Eicosadioate (NisshinOillio).

6 Gelled with 5.0% Nomcort® SG, INCI: GlycerylTribehenate/Isostearate/Eicosadioate (NisshinOillio); 2.0% Natrasorb® HFB, INCI: AluminumStarch Octenylsuccinate (and) AcrylatesCopolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate(AkzoNobel Chemicals); and 5.0% Bentone Gel®

GTCCV, INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) PropyleneCarbonate (Elementis Specialties).

7 Gelled with 10.0% Nomcort® SG, INCI: GlycerylTribehenate/Isostearate/Eicosadioate (NisshinOillio); 2.0% Natrasorb® HFB, INCI: Aluminum

Starch Octenylsuccinate (and) AcrylatesCopolymer (and) Magnesium Carbonate(AkzoNobel Chemicals); 8.0% Bentone Gel®

GTCCV, INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and)Stearalkonium Hectorite (and) PropyleneCarbonate (Elementis Specialties), and 5.0%Glycerine 99.7% USP Kosher, INCI: Glycerin(Acme-Hardesty Co).

8 Glossymeter GL 200 and Corneometer CM 825are products of Courage + Khazaka (Köln, Germany).

9 Oliphant T, Harper R. A Natural SiliconeAlternative: Floramac 10. Society of CosmeticChemists Technology Showcase. December 2017.Poster.

Figure 7: Increased skin radiance and hydration with Floramac 10.

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