a practical hand-book of electro-plating
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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT
A PRACTICAL HAND-BOOK
ELECTRO -PLATING
By Eduuafd Tfeveft. \
Author of " Everybody's Hand-book of Electricity."
" Experimental Electricity." " Electricity and its
Recent Applications." Etc., Etc.
jr, .,
ILLUSTRATED.
^OPVRIGHr^AUG 23 1891
*
1891.BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY
LYNN, - MASS.
p.1
w
COPYRIGHTED BYBUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY,
LYNN, MASS.
18 91.
PRESS OF
G. H. & W. A. NICHOLS,LYNN, - MASS.
PREFACE
^Uhis little volume is destined for the use
1 of beginners and amateurs in the art
of electro-plating and the author has
tried to make as complete a treatise
of the subject as possible in so small
a compass, hoping that the reader
may find enough to interest andhelp him to obtain a practical knowl-
edge of the subject. There has been
many calls for such a work, and I
trust that this book will help fill the
want. Should the reader want a morecomplete treatise he will find a numberof such works in any first-class bookstore. Among them is one that I will
especially recommend, "The Electro-
Platers' Hand Book," by C. E. Bonney, to
which I am indebted for many hints andsuggestions.
EDWARD TREVERT.Lynn, Mass., Aug. 15, 1891.
Electro -Plating,
7~he operations carried on in the
plating bath are substantially
those of the voltaic battery reversed.
In the latter case the current origi-
nates in the cell, and its production is
accompanied by the formation of a
salt of one of the elements, and in
the former case a current from an
external source breaks up the salt in
solution and deposits the metal in
one of the elements. The other
element need not necessarily be af-
fected, and is not if it is composed
of some substance not acted upon
by the acid left upon the breaking
of the salt.
It is customary, however, to make
8
it of the same material as that which
you are depositing. Otherwise the
solution would gradually weaken as
the operation goes on, but if an
anode of the same metal is used it is
dissolved as rapidly as the metal is
freed at the other pole, and so keeps
the solution up to its intitial strength.
Before going further we will de-
fine a few of the terms we shall use.
The two poles or conducting sur-
faces immersed in the liquid of a
plating bath are called the anode
and the kathode. The anode is the
pole at which the current enters the
bath and the kathode that at which
it leaves. The liquid is called the
electrolyte, and the operation in-
cluded under the general head of
electrolysis.
In plating upon metals, care must
be used in selecting an electrolyte
9
which will not act upon the kathode.
Iron, for instance, when immersed
in a solution of copper sulphate dis-
places some of the copper in the salt
and forms a salt by itself, with the
acid, which covers its surface and
prevents the plate from sticking.
We therefore use an alkaline solu-
tion in this case.
The coppering bath will first be
described, as it is perhaps oftenest
used and is a preliminary to plating
with some other metals. The electro-
lyte for objects not attacked by cop-
per sulphate is a saturated solution
of that salt in water. To be sure of
its being saturated, leave a few un-
dissolved crystals of the sulphate in
the bottom of the jar. Add a little
sulphuric acid to make the liquid a
better conductor. The object to be
plated must be thoroughly cleaned
10
before it is placed in the bath and
when clean must not be touched by
the fingers or any dusty or greasy
object. A very small trace of for-
eign matter is sufficient to prevent the
plate from sticking. Cleaning baths
suitable for the different metals are
given below
:
"Water Nitric Sulphuric Hydro-chloric
Copper andBrass 100 50 100 2
Iron 100 2 8 2
Iron (cast; 100 3 12 3
Zinc 100 10
Silver 100 10
Dip and rinse off in clean water
several times, until the surface is
bright and clean, and then place the
object in the bath and start the cur-
rent as soon after as possible. The
plating cell must be sufficiently large
to give the object plenty of room, so
1
1
that it will not touch the sides or
bottom of the plating vat.
It will not do to put the anode and
cathode too close together, as the
plate will be deposited unevenly,
that part of the cathode nearest the
anode receiving most. Too much
separation is also bad, as the resist-
ance of the cell is thereby increased
and of course this means a waste of
energy. Like many other things the
knowledge of how to arrange the
poles in the cell can be had only by
experience. By carefully watching
the deposit you will be able to dis-
cover the proper j^osition for each
object. The cell itself must be made
of some material not attacked by the
liquids used. Small cells are best
made of stone ware or glass, the
latter preferable, so that you may
watch the operation without remov-
12
ing the objects from the bath. The
arrangement of the objects in the
bath will depend largely upon cir-
cumstances. Often it will be found
to be a good plan to take a sheet of
the metal used as the anode, if it is
not too expensive, and nearly line
the vessel with it. This will cause
the deposit to be more evenly dis-
tributed on the article.
When everything is connected up
turn on the current. Be sure that it
is in the right direction before pass-
ing it through the bath. A small
pocket compass answers very well
for this purpose. Place it under the
wire through which the current is
flowing, and imagine yourself swim-
ming in the wire, and facing the
compass. If the north pole is de-
flected to your left you are swim-
l 3
ming with the current, if to your
right, against it.
Figure i.
Start up the current gradually
and by watching the character of the
deposit you can tell if you have the
proper amount of current. Whenall is going along properly, the cop-
per deposit will have a fine flesh
tint. Too much current is indicated
when the deposit becomes granular
and turns a brick red. When this
is the case, take the object out and
wash off all loose grains and put it
in the bath again with a reduced cur-
rent. When you have a sufficient
thickness of plate take it out and
14
wash thoroughly. If this is not
clone the object where it is wet with
the solution will turn a dull brown
upon drying.
Non-conducting objects are gen-
'erally plated with copper first
whether they are to be plated with
another metal afterwards or not.
To make the surface conducting,
finely powdered black lead (the best)
or finely ground gas carbon is brushed
over the surface. This must be
thoroughly clone, and if the deposit
is slow about appearing at any spot,
it should be touched by the end of
an insulated wire attached to the
main conductor to start the deposit.
This of course will answer for ob-
jects strong enough to stand the
brushing treatment, but not for flow-
ers, insects and other delicate things.
They may be given a conducting
film of silver by soaking in an alco-
holic solution of nitrate of silver.
This is made by shaking two parts
of the crystals of nitrate of silver in
100 of alcohol, with the aid of heat
in a stoppered bottle. When dry,
the object should be exposed to a
stream of sulphuretted hydrogen un-
der a hood. To prepare the sulphu-
retted hydrogen, bring a wrought
iron bar to a white heat, and touch
it with a piece of stick sulphur, the
iron will melt and drop like wax.
Put these drops in a bottle and pour
over them some dilute sulphuric
acid, and the gas will at once rise
and may be known by the resem-
blance of its odor to that of rotten
eggs. Lead it off through a tube to
the place where you wish to use it,
and when through, stop the opera-
tion by pouring off the liquid.
As stated above, objects so pre-
pared should be given a preliminary-
coat of thin copper before you try
to plate them with anythiug else.
To copper iron and other metals,
attacked by the copper sulphate a
solution is made by dissolving \ oz*
of copper sulphate in \ pint of water,
and adding ammonia until the pre-
cipitate it causes is re-dissolved. Then
add cyanide of potassium until the
blue color disappears. A current
strong enough to give off gas at the
surface is required.
Plating with silver is effected in
the same way as above with a silver
anode and an electrolyte composed
as follows : Nitrate of silver, 3^ oz.
to the gallon of solution, is dissolved
in water. Dissolve cyanide of po-
tassium in water, and noting the
quantity used, add this to the silver
i7
solution and a precipitate of cyanide
of silver will be formed. Keep add-
ing this until no more precipitate is
formed, but be careful by continual
stirring not to get an excess in.
Wash the precipitate upon filter
paper by pouring water over it, and
then dissolve it again in as much
more cyanide solution as you first
used, and add about 2 ozs. of the
potassium cyanide per gallon over
and above what you have already
put in. The silver anodes show the
condition of the fluid. They have a
clear, creamy look if the solution is
in good order, but will tarnish or
turn pink if there is not sufficient
free cvanide.
The proper strength of current is
indicated by the appearance of the
plated objects. A clear white sur-
face shows everything to be all right.
i8
Too strong a current will make the
color yellow or gray. The adhesion
of the silver plate is rendered more
perfect by amalgamation of the ob-
jects in a solution of nitrate of mer-
cury, 1 oz. to the gallon of water.
Gutta-percha, wax and resin are dis-
solved in the cyanide solutions, and
cannot therefore be used to plate
upon, directly.
The gold plating solution is made
in the same way as the silver solu-
tion, with the exception that chloride
of gold is used in place of the ni-
trate of silver at the start. The
plating may be tinted by a little
manipulation. A green tint can be
produced by the addition of cyanide
of silver to the solution or by the
use of a silver anode, and a red tint
by the use of copper. This solution
should be worked at a temperature
X 9
of 1500 Fahrenheit, and the articles
kept in constant motion. The anode
should be a clear dead yellow when
the solution is perfectly right.
The nickel plating solution is the
double sulphate of nickel and ammo-
nia. The solution must be worked
at as near the central point be-
tween an acid and an alkali as
possible. If it is either way it
should be slightly alkaline. To test
this, prepare some slips of blue
litmus papers by dipping them in a
litmus solution. If they are touched
by an acid they will turn red and
turn blue again in the presence of an
alkali. Have some of each kind on
hand to try your solution with. The
solution will gradually become acid
when it is worked and this tendency
must be counteracted by the addi-
tion of ammonia. The specific grav-
20
ity should be kept at 1.03 and only
a small E. M. F. is used, so that but
little hydrogen gas is given off.
Hydrogen should never be given off
in copper or silver plating, but if a
deep color is desired on a gold plate,
a few bubbles may be allowed to
appear.
The current for plating may be ob-
tained from a number of sources.
The best if accessible is an arc cur-
rent, supposing that the work is
done simply as a pastime and not as
a regular business. In the latter
case, special and permanent arrange-
ments should be made for obtaining
the necessary current. The method
of using an arc current is to insert a
resistance in its path and lead off the
wires for your plating bath from each
side of this resistance. By varying
the resistance you can obtain any
21
voltage you are likely to need for
small work. The reader need hardly
be told, however, that an arc current
is a dangerous thing to handle, and
that the bare wires should never be
handled except when they are en-
tirely disconnected from the current
bearing wires. Some form of plug,
such as is used in the electric light
stations, or a switch, which, while it
cuts out a loop, disconnects it at the
same time, should be used.
The resistance can be made up
cheaply, but effectively of a coiled
spring of some wire, large enough to
carry the current without overheat-
ing. German silver is the best mate-
rial, as it does not rust or corrode
like iron, and so furnishes a good
contact. The different spires of the
spring, while not in contact one with
another should be close enough to
Figure 2.
23
firmly grip the end of the lead, wire
to your bath. One of these lead
wires may be firmly soldered to the
end of the resistance coil, and the
other wire shifted along it to get the
desired resistance. See Fig. 2.
This arrangement will be found to
be well adapted for small work since
it wastes but a small amount of
energy. A constant potential light-
ing circuit can be used for plating,
but this is not at all desirable since
only a few volts are required and
from 90% to 95% of your energy
must be wasted in useless resistance
in series with the bath. If the con-
stant potential circuit is the only one
available, it would be better to use
storage batteries, charging them in
series from this circuit and plating
24
from them in parallel. This would
be a very good plan where you have
sufficient work to do to justify the
expense of setting up the batteries.
BATTERIES FOR ELECTRO-PLATING.
Primary batteries are only advisa-
ble in small work ; the Bunsen being
a very good battery for this purpose,
it requiring from one to six cells to
do the work, depending on the size
of your plating bath, the size and
number of articles to be plated at one
time.
The Bunsen cell consists of a glass
jar containing the amalgamated zinc
cylinder and dilute sulphuric acid.
In the inner porous cup, a carbon
plate dips into concentrated nitric
acid. There is no polarization for
the hydrogen liberated at the zinc
plate, in passing through the nitric
acid on its way to the carbon pole
decomposes the nitric acid, and is
itself oxidized. Its E. M. F. is about
BUNSEN CELL.
27
2 volts and its internal resistance is
very low. It will- furnish a steady
current for three or four hours.
Any Bichromate battery wTill
answer the purpose very wTell—the
Grenet Battery being a good one.
It consists of a ^glass jar or bot-
tle. A well amalgamated zinc plate
forms one pole and a pair of carbon
plates, one on each side of the zinc,
joined at the hard rubber top, forms
the other pole. The zinc plate is ,
fixed to a brass rod, by which it can
be drawn up out of the solution when
not in use. To charge this battery
proceed as follows
:
To three pints of cold water add
five fluid ounces of sulphuric acid.
When this becomes cold add six
ounces (or as much as the solution
will dissolve) of finely pulverized
bichromate of potash. Mix well.
GRENET BATTERY.
2 9
Pour this solution into the glass
cell until it nearly reaches the
top of the spherical part ; then draw
up the zinc and place the element
in the cell. The fluid should not
quite reach the zinc when it is drawn
up. Any desired number of these
cells may be connected together to
obtain the desired amount of current
or E. M. F.
The Taylor Battery will be found
a very good battery ; it is a new one
and possesses some admirable fea-
tures which deserve more than a
passing notice. It was gotten up to
meet the demand for a constant, clean
and cheap battery that would main-
tain a large current, and the result
seems to have been attained to a
large degree. There is no local
action when the cell is standing idle,
and the zinc is thoroughly amalga-
||:p!i
ft:v!!,,i!l IHlJI !| i
in
•'iim ' mmM :
TAYLOR BATTERY.
3 1
mated by a process of Mr. Taylor's
own invention. The battery is of
the zinc-carbon element, and is con-
structed on a scientific basis, with
the object of giving a large, powerful
and steady current at a minimum
cost. It 'is the result of twenty-
eight years of experience in telegraph
and electrical work. The best ma-
terial is used and special care taken
to insure low internal resistance.
One feature of this battery is that
the zinc element is wholly immersed
in the solution. The active zinc sur-
face in the No. 2 cell is twenty-seven
and one-half square inches. By the
total immersion of the zinc, about
thirty per cent, of the outlay of that
material is saved. The solution
around the zinc remains clear and
there are no creeping salts.
A No. 2 cell (6x8 inches in size)
3 2
gives 1.80 volts in open circuit work,
and delivers a current of 22.5. am-
peres on short circuit. The internal
resistance of the cell is only .077
ohms. The porous cup holds one
pint of the depolarizing solution,
which is good for seventy ampere-
hours at a cost of six cents. The
cell can be set up with a saturated
solution of common salt around the
zinc.
Some idea may be had of the
power of this battery, when it is
stated that one No. 2 cell will run an
Edison phonograph twenty-three
hours. It replaces thirty gravity
cells. Two No. 2 cells and a good
series wound motor will run a light
sewing machine.
These cells are admirably adapted
to electro-plating. A No. 1 cell
(12x7 inches) has a capacity of 350
33
ampere-hours, and a No. 2 cell (8x6
inches) of 70 ampere-hours.
Primary batteries are not advisa-
ble except for small work. The bi-
chromate plunge battery described
in the author's book on u Electric
Motors and All About Them,"
would make a good one for work of
this description. Six cells instead of
seven would probably be sufficient
and instead of connecting all in series
they could be connected two and
two in multiple, and the three groups
in series or three in multiple and the
two groups in series.
The storage cell is probably the
best. This cell (see engraving)
is made up of fifteen plates, eight
negatives and seven positives,
and is especially adapted to isolated
and central station lighting. The
electro-motive force of the cell is
THE STORAGE CELL.
35
about two volts. The internal resist-
ance is extremely low, say from .001
to .005 ohm, and the range of the
current large.
The capacity of the cell in perfect
condition is somewhat underesti-
mated at 300 ampere-hours ; 30 am-
peres, a safe working current, will last
for over ten hours, with not exceed-
ing 10 per cent, drop in electro-mo-
tive force, or a less current will be
supplied by the cell for a proportion-
ately greater number of hours. Agreater rate—up to 300 amperes
—
could also be obtained, but so great
a strain upon this size of cell would
injure the plates.
36
DYNAMOS FOR ELECTRO-PLATING.
Dynamos to be used for electro-
plating differ from those in general
use for electric lighting in a number
of important particulars. The ma-
chines used for lighting purposes are
wound so as to generate a current of
high E. M. F., while a plating dyna-
mo is constructed to give a current
of large volume but of low E. M.
F. The reasons are that a light-
ing circuit has a high resistance,
while the resistance in a plating cir-
cuit is always low. A high E. M.
F. is not desired in a electro-plating
and this is overcome by using large
wire in winding the dynamo and
running it at a low speed. The
wires of the external circuit should
37
be large too, so as to carry the cur-
rent safely.
Among the many good dynamos
which are well adapted for electro-
plating are the following
:
The Wood Dynamo. The en-
graving gives a very good idea of the
size and general appearance of the
new improved machine. It is of the
Gramme type. In the armature of
this machine we have a Gramme ring
armature. The core is usually lami-
nated, that is, it is made up of soft
iron discs, insulated from each other
by thin sheets of paper. These are
mounted on a shaft. The insulated
copper wire is wound in sections
around the external and internal
periphery of the ring. The begin-
ning and ending wire of each section
is left long and when the ring is
wound, the end of one section is
WOOD DYNAMO.
I
39
twisted up with and soldered to the
beginning of the next, and so on, all
around the ritisr. Then each twisted
end is soldered to a separate bar of
the commutator, of which there
must be as many as there are sec-
tions in the coil. Four field magnets'
cores are used, so as to form the
four corner yokes between two up-
right square castings, which form the
frame work of the machine. The
two upper cores are connected to one
pole-piece, and the two lower to
another. The field magnet coils are
so wound as to produce a north pole
in the piece above, and a south pole
in the piece below. The current is
continuous and is well adapted to
electro-plating.
The Eddy Dynamo Electric ma-
chines for electro-plating and elec-
tro-typing have always enjoyed an
40
excellent regulation. They have
been modified and improved from
time to time; the latest ones rank
high for efficiency, simplicity and
workmanship. In this machine the
ring form of magnet (Mather Pa-
tents), and Siemen's armature is
used. The field is always charged
when the machine is running, so
deposition begins as soon as the con-
nection is made. Owinor to the
method of winding, it is impossi-
ble for them to reverse.
Plug switches are placed on the
bases of Nos. 1 and 2, and the prin-
ciple on which they work is to lessen
the resistance of the field, and so
keep it from cutting out when heav-
ily loaded. In using the switch, both
plugs should be in outside holes
when running on a small amount of
work, and as the work increases to
4i
the point where the deposition is
slow, one plug should be put in the
slotted hole marked No. 1, and as
the surface in the tanks is aojain in-
creased, the other plug should be
put in the hole No. 2. The No. 3
machine is controlled by a switch as
above, or by a separate exciter in
special cases, and is under perfect
control whether it is doing a small or
large amount of work.
The shafts are of tool steel, and
are ground on dead centres, which
insures uniformity. The bearings
are of a very hard composition, and
are self-oiling, they contain flat rings
which run on the shaft and carry oil
from the reservoir below. The pet-
cock under the bearings should be
opened every morning and the old
oil allowed to run out, then closed
and refilled from the oil cups until it
EDDY ELECTROPLATING DYNAMO.
43
fills the recess in the yoke at the end
of the shaft. This should last all
day. The bearings must not be
allowed to run dry. Use a thin
pliable belt, the full width of the
pulley, and not have it drawn tightly.
The pulleys are large enough to do
the proper amount of work without
being tight against the belt. Astiff, heavy belt would have to be
drawn tightly, and would, in conse-
quence, wear out the bearing sleeves.
The commutator segments are
solid, and extend down to the shaft,
and with proper care will last a very
long time. The brushes should be
set sq that the point of contact on the
commutator of the top and bottom
brushes shall be diametrically oppo-
site. Adjust the brushes to insure
a light but sure contact. Do not set
them hard enough to cut the commu-
44
tator. File the ends to a bevel that
will bear flat on the commutator and
keep them so. Do not have the
bevel at such an angle that only the
front edge of the brush, or perhaps
one corner, bears on the commutator.
Such a condition of the brushes is
liable to produce sparking. If they
are properly trimmed and set, the
machine will run without sparks. Donot let the brushes and commutator
get gummed up with oil. All the
working current passes through the
brushes and a good contact between
brushes and commutator is indispen-
sable. Keep the commutator clean.
Do not deluge it with oil. Shift the
brushes occasionally to a different
place on the commutator, so as to
wear all parts alike, and not cut
channels or grooves in it. In setting
the brushes, make allowance for the
45
end chase of the shaft, and set them
far enough from the end of the com-
mutator so that there will be no pos-
sibility of contact between either
brush and the commutator head. For
lubricating the commutator, we
recommend haying a piece of felt
which has been soaked in lard-oil,
and then had plumbago worked into
it, which, if occasionally rubbed over
the surface will keep it in good con-
dition. A good oil for bearings is a
28 degrees mineral oil. Under no
circumstances use an animal or a
vegetable oil.
The armature is supported in the
magnet field by yokes supported by
rods connected to magnet, so render-
ing it impossible for it to get out of
line.
46
CLEANING ARTICLES.
It is of the utmost importance that
absolute cleanliness be observed to
obtain success in all electro-plating
operations. This must be done by
both mechanical and chemical means,
so as to be sure that the article to be
plated is free from all dust, grease,
or any foreign matter. Tarnished
silver or discolored gold may be
cleaned by immersing the article in
a hot solution of cyanide of potas-
sium. A strong warm solution of
carbonate of ammonia will loosen
the tarnish on silver, so that it may
be removed with a brush. Corroded
copper, brass, German silver, etc.,
should be first immersed in a solu-
tion composed of sulphuric acid
47
three pints, nitric acid If pints,
water 4 pints. This soon loosens
and dissolves the corrosion. Cor-
roded zinc should first be immersed
in a solution composed of sulphuric
acid, 1 oz., hydrochloric acid, 2 ozs.,
distilled or rain water, 1 gallon.
Rusty iron or steel should be first
pickled in solution of sulphuric acid,
6 ozs., hydrochloric acid, 1 oz., water,
1 gal. When the rust has been re-
moved, immerse the object in a solu-
tion composed of sulphuric acid, 1
pint, added to 1 gal., of distilled or
rain water, in which \ lb. of sul-
phate of zinc has been previously dis-
solved. Such metals as lead, tin and
pewter may be cleaned by immers-
ing them in a hot solution of caus-
tic soda or caustic potash. Whenany article is cleaned, be sure and
not let it come in contact with the
48
hands or fingers, as the greasy secre-
tions of the body will stick to the
metal and cause the coat of deposited
metal to strip off in spots. Care
inust be taken in handling caustic
solutions, as they will burn the skin
and tissues of the body.
49
FINISHING THE ARTICLES PLATED.
In silver plating, when the article
is removed from the plating solution
it should be held over the vat and
shaken gently a moment, so as to
remove the solution that may adhere
to it, after which it should imme-
diately be plunged into hot water
and rinsed thoroughly. It now must
be allowed to dry slowly. Whenthe article is perfectly dry it should
be brushed rapidly with a brush and
some fine silver polishing powder (a
tooth brush will answer the purpose
very well), until the opaque white
gives place to a silver lustre. It is
then ready for burnishing. This
may be done by simple friction with
a steel hand burnisher. While using
So
the burnisher it should be often
dipped into a dish of soap and water,
thus enabling the burnisher to glide
smoothly over the deposited metal
on the article plated. If this were
not done, the motion of hard steel
would tend to separate the deposited
silver from the article plated. Care
should be taken in keeping the bur-
nisher bright and clean, for should it
become rusty it would scratch the
plated articles. Small articles, such
as studs, sleeve buttons, finger rings,
etc., may be polished in the following
manner : They are placed in a long
canvas bag with some dry sawdust
and well shaken by two persons, one
at each end. One end of the bag may
be attached to a post or wall, and the
other shaken up and down until the
articles are polished.
5 1
PREPARING OLD WORK.
By old work we mean articles
where the plate is very much worn,
thereby exposing the real surface
largely.
In order to make a finish on such
work it is necessary to remove all
the old plate. In many cases it may
be removed with a scratch brush
and rotten-stone, but as a rule it
may be removed much quicker and
cleaner by acids.
Silver may be removed from cop-
per, brass or German silver in the
following manner: Add to 2 qts.
of strong sulphuric acid 1 oz. of ni-
trate of potash, stir in the potash and
immerse the article; should the
action become weak before the sil-
5 2
ver is removed apply more heat and
saltpetre. Gold may be removed
from silver by heating the article to
redness and throw it into dilated
sulphuric acid ; this will cause the
gold to peel and fall off very easily.
53
QUICKING ARTICLES.
This is done by the use of mercury
solutions- For copper, brass or Ger-
man silver prepare a solution as fol-
lows : To one pound of nitric acid
add three times its volume of pure
distilled or rain water, pour this upon
an ounce of mercury, a little at a
time, with stirring, until all the mer-
cury is dissolved ; dilute the whole
with one gallon of water.
Zinc articles should be coated in
a solution as follows : Dissolve an
ounce of nitrate of mercury in 2
gallons of water, mixed with 4 oz. of
sulphuric acid.
As a thick coating of mercury will
cause metal to strip after the plating
is done, it is of the utmost impor-
54
tance that these solutions contain
only enough mercury to give the arti-
cle the thinnest coating possible ; arti-
cles upon being removed from the
quicking solution, should present a
uniformly white appearance. If they
are spotted the surface is either
greasy or the solution is badly made.
A good coating will stand burnish-
ing. A good test of a quicking
liquid is to immerse in it a clean
copper plate ; if the plate becomes
white soon with a thin, closely adher-
ent coating the liquid is right. If
the coating is black or bad in color
the liquid is not properly made or is
exhausted.
55
ELECTRO-TYPING.
By electro-typing is meant that
process ,of electro-plating an article
with a metal coating, generally cop-
per, of sufficient thickness that it
may be removed and form an inde-
pendent object, which will be an
exact copy. It is in fact a complete
fac simile of the object in reverse.
To obtain a positive copy, a cast has
to be taken from the negative. This
negative is called the mould or
matrix. There are a number of
processes, among them the Adams
process, which is used to a great
extent, a description of which will
give the reader a general idea of the
art.
56
#This process, which was patented
in 1870 is said to give a perfect con-
ducting surface to wax moulds with
greater certainty and rapidity than
any other, and will accomplish in a
few minutes that which plumbago
alone would require from two to
four hours. The process is con-
ducted as follows : While the mould
is still warm in the moulding case,
apply freely powdered tin (tin bronze
powder, or white bronze powder)
with a soft brush until the surface
presents a bright, metallic appear-
ance ; then brush off the superfluous
powder. The form of type or wood-
cut is then plumbago ed, and an im-
pression or mould taken in the wax
as before described, the mould being
built up and connected as before.
The tin powder is now to be brushed
*Electro-Deposition by A. L. Watt.
57
over it either by hand or machine,
and the superfluous tin blown away
by the bellows, after which the build-
ing-iron is applied for stopping all
parts upon which the copper is not to
be deposited. The mould is then
to be immersed in alcohol, then
washed in water " to remove the air
from the surface," when it is ready
to be immersed in a solution pre-
pared as follows : Fill a depositing
tank nearly full of water, keeping
account of the number of gallons
poured in ; hang a bag of crystals
of sulphate of copper until the water
is saturated ; for every gallon of
water used, add from half a pint to
three gills of sulphuric acid, and mix
the whole thoroughly. In this solu-
tion hang a sheet of copper, con-
nected to the positive pole of the
battery, and when the solution be-
58
comes cool and settled, immerse the
mould and connect it with the nega-
tive electrode, when the surface of the
mould will be quickly covered with
thin copper. Then remove for com-
pletion to another and larger deposit-
ing vat, containing a solution made
in the proportion of one pound of
sulphate of copper and one gill of
sulphuric acid to each gallon of
water. If crystals of sulphate of
copper form on the copper plate in
the first depositing vat, disconnect it
and dissolve them off, substituting
for it a clean plate.
Since, in the above process, the tin
powder becomes dissolved and enters
into the solution, when this liquid
becomes saturated with tin, after
being long in use, it must be cast
aside and replaced by fresh solution.
The tin powder may be employed
59
as a substitute for plumbago, with-
out chano;in£ from one bath to
another, thus : After the mould has
received the desired impression, it is
taken to the plumbago table, and
held faee downward, with one end
resting on the table, while the other
is supported by the hand. It is then
struck on the back several times to
loosen the black lead that is pressed
on the wax while moulding, and all
the fine dust that may cling to the
mould must be blown away. After
building up and making all connec-
tions, it is to be placed in the hand-
case or plumbagoing machine, and
the tin powder applied in the same
way as plumbago. Both the machine
and hand-case should be kept free
from plumbago, the tin powder be-
ing only used to metallize the sur-
face of the mould. If the machine
6o
be used, place the mould, or moulds,
on the carriage, cover well over with
tin powder, close the door, and run
once forward and backward under
the vibrating brush ; then turn the
moulds round, put on more tin pow-
der, and run through again. It takes
three minutes for the whole opera-
tion. The tin powder is to be
beaten out on the table used for this
powder as before, and then thor-
oughly well blown out. Instead of
using the building iron for stopping
off, any suitable varnish, or an alco-
holic solution of sealing-wax may be
used. To prevent the copper de-
posit from being broken over lines of
set up type, the lines may be whetted
with a dilute solution of nitrate of
mercury, or with a cyanide quicking
solution used in preparing work for
plating. A further deposit is then
6i
given in the sulphate of copper bath.
In the depositing bath the solution
employed is a saturated solution of
sulphate of copper, acidulated with
sulphuric acid, and large copper
anodes are suspended in the bath,
between which the cases containing
the prepared moulds are suspended,
back to back, so that the faces of the
moulds may be directly opposite the
anodes. The time occupied in ob-
taining the electro deposit of copper
depends upon the power of the cur-
rent employed and the thickness of
metal desired. For ordinary book
or job work, the shell of copper
should be about the thickness of good
book paper, and this should be ob-
tained in from three to five hours.
Electros for newspaper titles, and
such blocks as are subjected to much
use, should receive a stouter deposit.
62
When the mould has received the
requisite deposit, it is to be removed
from the bath, and is next to be
separated from the wax composition.
This is done by placing the mould in
an inclined position, and passing a
stream of hot water over the copper
surface, which, by softening the wax
enables the copper shell to be stipped
off, by raising it from one corner
while the hot water is passing over
the mould. The shell should be re-
moved with care and must not be
allowed to bend in the least degree.
The thin film of wax which adheres
to the face of the electro is removed
by placing it upon a wire rack, rest-
ing on a vessel containing a solution
of caustic potash, which is poured
63
over the electro by means of a ladle,
the liquor returning to the vessel
beneath. The potash has the effect
of dissolving the wax in a short time,
after which the electro is well rinsed
in cold water.
64
CARE IN HANDLING POISONS.
Many of the substances used in
electro-plating are of a highly poison-
ous nature, and for that reason the
author would caution the reader not
to dip his hands into cyanide baths,
or let the fingers or hands come in
contact with cyanide solutions, espec-
ially should there be a recent cut or
scratch on them, as painful affections
are liable to arise in the form of
sores from this cause. Cyanide so-
lutions being a caustic, act very
freely on the delicate tissues of the
skin, but more especially upon the
parts under the finger nails.
Never add an acid to any liquid con
65
taining cyanide or ferro-cyanide in a
closed apartment. This should always
be done in the open air, taking care
not to inhale the gases that arise,
which are very poisonous.
66
SOME TOOLS NEEDED FOR ELECTRO-
PLATING,
Burnisher. An instrument con-
sisting of a hard steel blade with a
wooden handle, used in producing a
polish by friction on articles after
they have been plated.
Galvanometer. An apparatus for
measuring the strength, or to ascer-
tain the direction of an electric cur-
rent by the deflection of a magnetic
needle.
Hydrometer. A glass instrument
resembling a thermometer, and is
used for testing the specific gravity
of liquids.
Potash Brush. This is made of
cotter* fibre with a wooden back and
handle. Any animal fibre would
67
soon get soft, dissolve and wear
away. It is used to clean the arti-
cles to be plated from dust, grease,
etc.
Polishing Brush. Made of bris-
tles, with a wooden or bone back and
handle, to be used with dry silver
polishing powder in polishing articles,
after they have been plated.
Thermometer. To ascertain the
right temperature of the gilding
solution. It must be made wholly
of glass, as any metal would dissolve
in the hot solution.
Many other tools and articles to
be used in this art will suggest them-
selves to the reader as he progresses.
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1
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Turbine Wheels. By Prof. W. P. Trowbridge.The Telescope-. Its Construction, &c. ByThomas Nolan.
Induction Coils: How Made and How Used.3d Edition.
Incandescent Electric Lights. By Compte Th.Du Moncel and Wm. Henry Preece. 2d Edi-tion.
The Theory of the Gas Engine. By DugaldClerk.
Electro- Magnets. By Th. du Moncel.Dynamo Electric Machinery. By S. P. Thomp-
son.Dynamic Electricity. By John Hopkinson,
J. A. Schoolbred and R E. Day.Recent Progress in Dynamo-Electric Machines.Being a supplement to Dynamo-Electric Ma-chinery. By Prof. Silvanus P. Thompson.
Hand Book of Mineralogy; Determination andDescription of Minerals found in the UnitedStates. By Prof. J. C. Foye.
Bubier Publishing Co., Lynn.
A NEW BOOK!By Edward Trevert.
AUTHOR OF-Everybody's Handbook of Electricity.How to make Electric Batteries at Home.
Experimental Electricity.Dynamos and Electric Motors.
ELECTRICITYAND ITS
Recent Applications.Containing- nearly 350 Pages and
about 250 Illustrations.
This work is printed on extra fine heavy paper,is bound in a neat cloth binding, and letteredin gold. It is particularly adapted to theuse of Students.
PRICE $2.00.POSTAGE FREE.
BUBIER PUBLISHING COMPANY,20 City Hall Sq., Lynn, Mass.