Staines Historical Walk – Part 5

Section 5 of our walk is longest at 3 miles and starts at the 'gateway' plinth at the north of the pedestrianised section of Staines High Street. It takes in the southern half of the High Street, Two Rivers, Thames Street, Laleham Road, Gresham Road, Staines Park, Commercial Road and the River Thames Path through the Memorial Gardens.

For an interactive map of Part 5 of the Staines Historic Walk visit the link at MapMyWalk.com.

To start, first look back to the Iron Bridge and then left past Tatters and to the road going left between the shop and the Iron Bridge.

Empire CinemaThe first purpose built cinema in Staines opened in 1922 and was named “The Paris”. This was immediately southwest of the iron bridge and only separated from the railway by Factory Path. It was later renamed The Empire and remained open until about 1960, when cinemas went into decline due to competition from television. The “Empire” was locally known as the “Fleapit”, and the picture wobbled on the screen every time a train passed. After closing it became Gamleys Toy & Video Store with offices above. When the building was being demolished in 1997, to make way for an extension to Mustard Mill Road (see photo below), the old art-deco ceiling of the auditorium was uncovered above a false ceiling.

The photo below was taken in 2012. Most shops on this side of the High Street, immediately south of the Iron Bridge have closed, are soon to close or have a sale on. Does this mean these old buildings are so badly run down they are soon to be demolished and replaced? I don’t know, but let’s see.

Walk south through the gateway plinth and along the pedestrianised area of Staines High Street.

Small MosiacsThe two 'gateway' plinths we pass through have metal bollards to stop motor vehicles going onto the pedestrianised High Street. These can be lowered on market days to allow traders and for emergency services if needs be. Each plinth is home to panels of small mosaics. There are many more mosaics along the High Street, as you’ll see later. All are done in good taste and tell history of the town or the surrounding area. Look carefully as you walk and see how many you can see. I’ll refer to some as we go along and mention their relevance to the town of Staines.

The White LionImmediately south-west of the Iron Bridge and on the south-side of the High Street sat Mumford & Lobb furniture store and next to this was the old White Lion Inn. The inn was a half-timbered Elizabethan structure and was one of the most important buildings in the town. From the photo below (c1870), you can see how both buildings jutted out into the High Street and this would ultimately be responsible for their destiny.

At the start of the 20th century a large function room at the back of the inn was used as a court room for local “petty sessions”. Against popular demand the building was demolished in 1956 as an excuse to help elevate the traffic problem in the town. However, this was only three years after being listed an historic building and three years before the opening of the first stage of the Staines Bypass. Today Pampured Pets, Jessops and Millets occupy part of the site of the old inn and department store.

Extra news has come to light in the early days of 2013, Millets has closed, Jessops has gone into administration and the shop in Staines has now closed. It means almost all of the shops immediately south of the Iron Bridge have now closed down.

Metropolitan Drinking Fountain

The Metropolitan Drinking Fountain was constructed in the early 1890s. It originally comprised of a granite fountain with separate dog and cattle troughs and sat on the Market Square side of Clarence Street. It was moved to Moor Lane in the 1950s, then over 30 years later, and minus dog trough, was relocated here. From a Francis Frith photo, dated 1895, you can the fountain at its original site and proudly supporting a street light.

The mosaic on the fountain represents the life giving waters which surround Staines. The plaque states:

“This Plaque Is Here To Commemorate One Hundred Years Of Prosperity in STAINES, Since The Chamber of Commerce Was Founded In 1903. It Also Commemorates The Pederstrianisation Of STAINES High Street And The Removal And Re-location Of The Plaque Celebrating The Silver Jubilee Of Her Majesty Queen ELIZABETH II”

Marks & Spencer and WoolworthsBoth opened here in the 1930s as exciting new stores for the town. Marks & Spencer (opened in 1933) continues to thrive. The economic downturn of 2008 affected Woolworths so greatly, that on 26 th November 2008 the trading of shares in the company were suspended. Like many others the Staines branch closed on 2nd January 2009. Part of the store was taken over by Poundland and shortly afterwards the rest by H&M. The photos below show this part of the High Street today and just a few years before the old White Lion Inn was demolished.

You may wonder why the windows of Poundland are so large. The photo below may explain, as this was once home to a coach repair company which later became an automotive repair garage, Carpenters / Christies Motor Works. The older photo was taken during the period of transition from horse-drawn transport to motor vehicles, as you can see both modes of these transports are in for repair.

Starting in 1933 there was competition between Marks & Spencer and Woolworths’ on the football pitch. However, it wasn’t the men who played. The game was between the ladies who worked in each store and ticket receipts went to support Staines Cottage Hospital. Below is a photo of the Woolworths’ Ladies taken in 1934, and what a beautiful photograph. As it’s one of my favourite photos of Staines from times gone past, I have made it slightly larger than most, and also in a higher definition so you can grab and drag the corner to enlarge even more and read all their names – you may have known one or some of them. To read more about Women’s Football in the area visit Exploring Surrey’s Past.

Staines High Street

The High Street stretches from Kingston Road to the Market Square. It basically follows the route of the old Roman Road and evidence of occupation from at least Roman Times to now have been uncovered along its whole length. I’ll go into a few, and add links as we continue on the walk, but not all. I’ll also refer to historic buildings, some now gone and some still standing. To read all the archaeological findings in this area of the town you can research at Exploring Surrey’s Past with a link to Staines Town Hall, you can find all others on the website map. Also, for a full list of listed buildings in the area see the link to a document entitled Local List of Buildings and Structures of Architectural or Historic Interest, dated February 2004, which is available at the Spelthorne Borough Council website.

Up until a few centuries ago the active part of the High Street was the area close to the Market Square, and in later years this gradually grew northwards along the High Street. It was only with the opening of the railway station in 1848 when the northern side of the town really started to develop. By the end of the 19 th century the influence of the railway brought more people and industry to the town. It resulted in the decline of horse-driven coaches through here and associated industries such as coaching inns, blacksmiths, saddlers and veterinarians. On the south-side of the street there were banks, butchers, bakers (the candlestick-maker was north of here), basket-makers, ironmongers, inns, ale houses, cobblers, fishmongers, cycle stores, fruit & vegetable shops, and local “we sell everything stores”. It may be surprising, but by 1899 the High Street was still dominated by large private houses and had less than 70 shops. There were other outlets in adjacent streets, but within 40 years the large private houses along the High Street had either disappeared or their ground floors had been converted to retail outlets. The number of shops on the High Street doubled to cater for the growing needs of the increasing population brought in by the railway and the industries which grew up around it. As we walk along the High Street and look at the photos of different eras you will see some of the changes that have occurred, but still look above the shops to see how the old houses of the wealthy have not all been knocked down and this may give you an impression of how lovely this old street once looked.

The two photos below are from the Surrey History Centre, dated 1895 & 1928. They show High Street Staines looking north towards The White Lion Inn, which can be just made out in the lower centre of both.

High Street MarketStaines had a market by 1218 and may, from its position at an important river-crossing, have been an early trading centre. It was one of the merchant towns which were summoned to send representatives to the first parliament of Edward I in 1275. 

The quote below comes from “British History Online”.

“In 1218 the Sheriff of Middlesex was ordered to see that Staines market was henceforward held on Friday, instead of Sunday. The Friday market continued until the early 19th century and the market rights and tolls belonged to the lords of the manor. The market place was where

the High Street widens where it meets the bridge approach, just below the junction with Church Street. The marshy ground to either side of Bridge Street was reclaimed for habitation, perhaps gradually, but certainly by the end of the 16 th century. The market house was in existence in 1662. Apparently by 1723, it was a small brick building of two stories, with a spire, and stood in the then main road, where the present Old Town Hall stands. The market declined in the 19 th century and was discontinued by 1862. In 1872, following a vestry resolution, an Act was obtained under which the market house and neighbouring buildings were demolished, the Town Hall was erected, and a market was established. This widened the street to form the Market Square and provided the site on which the Memorial Gardens were laid out in 1897.”

With the pedestrianisation of the High Street in 2002, Staines was once again able to hold a market. Today there is a flourishing market on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. There are also plans for a craft market on Thursdays, and who knows? Maybe a Farmer’s Market will follow.

Mosaic Borough ArmsOn the High Street outside the entrance to the Elmsleigh Centre is a mosaic of the Borough Coat of Arms. Unveiled in August 2002 by Penelope Keith, Sheriff of Surrey, this mosaic forms the centre piece of the refurbishment of Staines town centre. The southern half of the High Street has been pedestrianised in a design by Scott-Allen Partnership for Spelthorne Council which features Gary Drostle mosaics as a key design element.

The grant of Armorial Bearings to a local authority is a Royal Privilege - Spelthorne’s was granted in 1975. The shield is divided by a straight line along the middle. In the lower half, alternate waves of blue and white represent the Thames. Against them stands a thorn tree recalling the famous tree which gave its name to the ancient “Hundred” (or Borough) of Spelthorne.

Spanning the waves is Staines Bridge and behind it rises the sun from Sunbury’s crest against a background of blue. As well as referring to Sunbury, the sun suggests the dawn of a new civic life for Spelthorne.

The crest is upon two crossed seaxes (Saxon Swords), common to both Council’s Arms, on the top of which a swan represents the River Thames, an important factor in the life of the Borough. While the swords suggest two former Middlesex authorities, the new Borough in Surrey is symbolised by two sprigs of oak and two acorns from the Surrey County Council Arms. The motto is a combination of Staines' Ad Pontes Prospicimus ("At the Bridges we look forward") and Sunbury's Sol Et Paster Deus ("God is my Sun and my Shepherd") in the sentence Ad Solem Prospicimus. Literally "We look towards the Sun", the motto implies that "We face the dawn of a new civic era".

The photos above show the mosaic on the ground outside the Elmsleigh Centre and the Spelthorne Coat of Arms at Heraldry of the World.

Elmsleigh CentreThe Elmsleigh Shopping Centre was opened on 22nd February 1980 by Queen Elizabeth II (see photo below) – a plaque in the centre area commemorates the opening. It takes its name from Elmsleigh House, a large Victorian villa, built c1878 and demolished in 1974. The house was off the High Street, in large grounds behind what are now Lloyds and Barclays’ banks. Up until 1888 it was occupied by Morris Ashby Jr. a member of the influential brewing & banking family. It passed through many owners until 1952, when it was taken over by Staines Urban District Council and remained in their hands until it was demolished. Archaeological excavations were carried out here in 1974/75 and, like many others along the High Street area, found evidence of Roman and Medieval occupation. See HER_2887 at Exploring Surrey’s Past for more information.

The photos below are of Elmsleigh House from its large garden, and an aerial view of this part of the High Street from 1927. Elmsleigh House is to the right of the second photo and hiding behind the buildings fronting onto Staines High Street.

To the left of the Elmsleigh Centre are Reed and Vodafone shop fronts. They occupy the ground floor of two unequal late 19 th / early 20th century, gothic, three storey, red-brick gables. On the top side wall of Vodafone is the inscription “Dunn & Co.”, probably referring to the building’s previous use. These two gables were initially half of a four gable larger building which was symmetrical about the centre. The right hand half of the building was demolished to make way for the Elmsleigh Centre. However, what remains is still grade II listed. An old photo on Francis Frith from c1965 shows how this side of the High Street looked before the other half of this building was demolished.

Directly opposite the entrance to the Elmsleigh Centre is Norris Road. In 1837, at this part of the High Street, Margaret Pope built one of Staines finest houses, “The Mansion” (see photo on right above). Her father was a Quaker physician, who had the unenviable task of treating the “mad” King George III. “The Mansion” replaced an older family home on the site, but like most of the large private houses on the High Street was demolished later to make way for shops.

At this point we turn right into Norris Road, but before doing this look a little further along the High Street. On the right hand side is McDonald’s and above it gives a clue to another part of Staines history.

McDonalds Restaurant and very “Old Post Office”Westbourne House an imposing three storey building on the High Street was home to a Mr Ashby, a member of the influential brewing and banking Quaker family. It was bought by local butcher, Charles Reeves in 1898. He demolished it and built a block of three ornate retail outlets. The one on the right (no. 62) was finished in 1899, as still shown by the inscription between the top two windows. In that same year this opened as Staines main post office, replacing the older one on the other side of the street. It remained as the post office until 1931 when another was built north of the Iron Bridge. Since then the building has been home to a number of retail outlets and is now a McDonalds’ restaurant.

In 1902 Mr Reeves moved into (no. 56), the left of the three buildings, with his butchers’ business on the ground floor and family quarter above.

The photo below was taken in 2012 and it shows the upper floors of the three buildings built by the local butcher. At the bottom of the photo are the canopy roofs of the market traders who occupy the High Street three days each week. It’s a real shame that over the years the ground floors of these lovely buildings have been demolished and replaced with the square glass shop-front windows we have today.

Brick CarvingThe Brick Carving on right, as we walk along Norris Road, dates from 1999 and was engraved on the brickwork by sculptor Richard Kindersley. It has two people coming together in boats, greeting each other and represents the meeting of the two rivers Clone and Wraysbury.

Time ContinuumThe statue, in the small square at the end of Norris Road, is by sculptor David Backhouse and placed here in late 1999. It has the figures of a Roman man and modern day woman, representing the town’s Roman past through to the end of the 2 nd Millennium. The two figures form a simple sundial, casting their shadow directly north at midday (Greenwich Mean Time). Around the base are “N”, “E”, “S” and “W” showing the four main directions of a compass, or in this case sundial. The two figures greet each other across time – hence the name “Continuum”.

Continue straight on past the statue then past Boots and Waitrose to your RHS. On reaching the road (Mustard Mill Road), cross straight over the pelican crossing and turn right along the pavement. Just before reaching McDonald’s veer left, still following the pavement, and soon over a wooden footbridge. Once over turn left and stay on the pavement along the edge of the car park for 60 yards. Turn left, over a second footbridge and back over the pelican crossing we just crossed earlier.

Mustard Mill Road & Staines LinoYou may wonder why I have taken you in a small circle. It’s because it was here and the area around this circle that Fredrick Walton, the inventor of Linoleum , opened his famous Lino Factory in 1864 at Hale Mill. By 1930 the factory covered an area of 45 acres of what is now Two Rivers Shopping Centre. This was the main employer in the town and continued to produce for over a hundred years until its closure in 1970. A metal statue we pass later in the High Street shows two workmen carrying a roll of lino. An aerial photo of the Staines Linoleum Company Works, taken in 1928, can be viewed by following the link to “Britain from Above”. If you have not already done so, you can read more about the history of Staines’ mills and the Linoleum Manufacturing Company at part 1 of our walk.

The photos above show the two footbridges we used to cross over the River Colne. The first one is that behind Drive-thru’ McDonalds and as you can see has a weir. The water descending here may well have been the site of where the mill’s water-wheel was to provide the power for the mill. Also, as I said earlier in the walk, it’s a real shame this small park area and river flowing through it has not been utilised more than just sitting between and being cut off by two huge car parks and a busy road. Maybe someday, the local council will reconsider the layout and possibly build a marina with bars and restaurants around it.

“Supershow 1969”

Over the two days of 25 – 26 March 1969 a music documentary film, named “Supershow” was filmed in Hale Mill at the old lino factory. This was intended as Britain’s first music “super session” with many famous blues, jazz and rock artists coming together to perform. The whole project was planned in great secrecy and artists included: Led Zeppelin, Buddy Guy, Eric Clapton, Jack Bruce, Buddy Miles, Stephen Stills, plus many others. Allegedly, Jimi Hendrix was due to appear, but missed his plane from New York. You can read more about the film at Wikipedia and listen to Led Zeppelin (Dazed and Confused); Buddy Guy (Stormy Monday Blues); Eric Clapton v Buddy Guy (on guitar), Stephen Still (Black Queen) and much more by following the links at YouTube.

Once over the pelican crossing, turn right along the pavement staying between car parks and keeping Mustard Mill Road to your RHS. At the roundabout, stay left along the pavement and on reaching a mini-roundabout go straight on, over the road, past black metal bollards and into a seating area with black benches and a statue behind them.

I really hope by taking you through the vast expanse of the central area of Two Rivers, plus the web links and photos here, you get a feel of what a huge area it now covers. How the factories and mills here covered the whole area for tens of decades and how, even dating back tens of

centuries to when the Romans were here. This was the economic heart of the town, the rivers provided the power to the mills, the mills provided the employment to the townsfolk, and the townsfolk were thus able to put bread on the tables for their families. I suppose, that today, in a similar way the retails outlets of Two Rivers also do the same.

Two River SpritesThe Two River Sprites statue is the 2nd sculpture by David Backhouse and was placed here in 2001. The photo on the right below can be enlarged, by clicking and dragging the corner. This plaque on the sculpture reads: “The “Two River Sprites” emerge from the water, hands linked. Their meeting is symbolic of the vitality and life of the waterways which converge on this site”.

Continue straight on past the statue, soon between buildings, into and along Tilly’s Lane.

Water Nymphs

The Water Nymphs, high on the wall to the right at the entrance to Tilly’s Lane are made of stainless steel and by sculpture Clare Bigger. Tradition through Ancient Greek, Roman Times, Ancient Britain and even today, believed that spirits of nymphs lived in waters and gave life to the area. The nymphs, like rivers, would never grow old, yet they could produce off-spring. The Water Nymphs here represent the prosperity the two rivers, Colne and Wraysbury, have given to this area.

Tilly’s House

Tilly’s House on Tilly’s Lane does have some history to it. I’m sure I read a few years ago the house was preserved by taking it down brick by brick and rebuilding it where it now sits – if you can add to this story, I’d be really grateful. Today it is occupied by Caffe Gusto, an award winning small coffee / restaurant chain with a dozen outlets in the UK.

Tilly’s LaneTilly’s Lane is named after a 19th century barber. At that time this was a narrow lane between shops, but through redevelopment an old building on the High Street, just south of the one which now houses SWAG & Santander, was demolished to make a wider thoroughfare into Two Rivers.

Excavations in Tilly’s Lane, before the building of the Two River Shopping Centre revealed Romano-British settlement established in the second half of the 1st century AD, soon after the Roman invasion of Britain in 43 AD. The settlement was built on a gravel island at an important bridging point across the Thames that formed the main route from London to the west of the Britain. The early settlement flourished and expanded in the 2nd century AD, but this was followed by a break in activity and an apparent contraction in the late 2 nd /early 3rd centuries, although its occupation continued to the end of the Roman Empire in the 5 th century. The economy of the town seems to have remained much the same throughout the Romano-British period, with most basic foodstuffs being brought in from the surrounding area. Activity after Roman times was negligible until the 12th century, when people began using the eastern half of the main gravel island. Here, burgage plots (small-holdings) were established, some used for horticultural purposes, others for storage, stabling and the keeping of animals. These were at right-angles to the course followed by the current High Street. You can read more about the excavations on Tilly’s Lane at Wessexarch.

Brick Carving

The brick carving high on the wall near the High Street end of Tilly’s Lane was created by sculptor John McKenna in 2001. The two ladies, representing the Colne and Wraysbury rivers, pour water down the hills to join “Old Father Thames” reclining at the bottom. The Staines coat of arms is represented by the swan.

Release Every Pattern (or aka, “Roll Out the Lino”)As we come out of Tilly’s Lane and turn right along Staines High Street we pass a sculpture of two men carrying a roll of lino. This represents the “Staines Linoleum Company” and the fact that Staines gave lino to the world. It was made by David Annand and placed here in 2004 and is named “Release Every Pattern”. A poem, by Richard Price and Leona Medlin, on the roll of lino goes as follows:

“Roll out the linofrom Staines to the world !

Release every patternfrom chessboard to twirl !In every hopeful kitchen

let life unfurl,bathrooms are art roomsfrom soapsuds to swirl !

Roll out the linoFrom Staines to the world !”

This area of Staines High Street, to the south of the Elmsleigh Centre, could be described as what used to be the cutting end of the town. It was where the shops and banks sprang up when Staines as a retail centre started to grow northwards from the Market Square. Look around and you’ll still see much evidence of this today. There are businesses here which have stood on the same site for decades, and some for centuries.

The Angel HotelThe Angel occupies a very ancient site of an inn recorded as early as 1303. It is surely the oldest surviving inn in Staines. It was built on land owned by the church, but has been rebuilt and remodelled several times over the years. It was known as the Angel Hotel for centuries. In the 19 th

century it was called The Angel & Crown, then The Angel & Crown Commercial Hotel, but reverted to “The Angel” in 1922.

The inn was bought by McMullen’s Brewery in 2003 and was converted to a Baroosh Pub. However, there are still many old features to the building. For many years this was one of Staines’ main coaching inns, and during the height of the coaching era, in the late 18th / early 19th

century, it had stabling for over 100 horses. At this time there were about 90 stagecoaches a day through the town. The old coaching entrance which once led to a stable yard can still be seen on the front right front of the building. The three windows to the left on the first floor have French casements to a balcony, plus the front (although repainted and modernised on the ground floor) retains many of its old features. Like many building on the High Street, archaeological research here has unveiled remnants of Neolithic, Roman and Medieval Times. A photo on Francis Frith dated 1895 shows this part of Staines High Street, from it you can see how the coaching arch was then higher and the name was “Angel & Crown Commercial Hotel”.

A few doors west of the Angel and on the same side of the street sat The Cabin. This tiny, old beer house was popular with locals, but closed in 1956 and was demolished in 1960.

In 1974, during sessions for the Sweet Fanny Adams album, Brian Connolly lead singer of the band “Sweet” was hurt in a fight outside a pub in Staines High Street. His throat was badly injured and his ability to sing severely limited. Priest and Scott filled in on lead vocals on some tracks ("Into The Night" and "Restless") and Connolly under treatment from a Harley Street specialist managed to complete the album. The band did not publicise the incident and told the press that subsequent cancelled shows were due to Connolly having a throat infection.

Jubilee Stone

The Jubilee Stone, erected in 1977 to mark The Queen's Silver Jubilee, was on the southern end of High Street, outside Debenhams. It was on the Roman road from London pointing at the Negen Stones and coincident with one of its leys. However, the stone has now been removed and the plaque which adorned it has been relocated to the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain at the north side of the High Street.

Small MosiacsThe first four mosaics below are on the two 'gateway' plinths at either end of the pedestrianised section of Staines High Street. They depict the Romans coming to the town in 43 AD; the “Speech Thorne” represents the Speech Thorn Tree (believed to have been on Ashford Common) where elders met to discuss local issues, this is where the “Hundred of Spelthorne” (first mentioned c500AD) takes its name; the first record of Staines Fair is 1228, and the last mosaic represents the pedestranisation Staines High Street in 2002.

The second set of mosaics, again found in Staines High Street represent: the formation of the Linoleum Manufacturing Company by Fredrick Walton in 1846; Kempton Park Racecourse was established in Sunbury-on-Thames in 1878; the camera represents the opening of Shepperton Studios in 1928, and in 1955 The Queen opened a new building (originally named The Queen’s Building and later Terminal 2) and the tunnel which provides the main road access to Heathrow’s central area.

DebenhamsDebenhams is the largest retail outlet in the town with a floor area of 133,367 square feet (2.6 acres) over four floors. The history of this store started c1840 when Robert Morford opened a drapers store near the bottom of the High Street. By the 1880s it had developed into a department store named Morford & Goodman. During the Second World War it was taken over by Kennards, and smaller units in Thames Street were used to enlarge the business.

Keith Jaggers, in his “Memories of Staines”, wrote:

“Kennards” department store was until 1956 housed in a rambling collection of small buildings all joined together inside, with uneven and creaky floors. These extended a good way down Thames Street from the High St junction. Rebuilding into the present very fine premises took several years to complete.”

In 1956 Kennards demolished all the small units which made up its store, plus a few other adjacent buildings, and in their place constructed a purpose-built department store. In 1973 Kennards store at Staines became Debenhams. When initially built the store consisted of three floors and since an extra floor has been added.

Staines Congregational ChapelThe Congregational Chapel was an imposing building which jutted out onto the south side of Thames Street at the junction with the High Street. It was built in 1837 and demolished in 1956. The first photo below was taken towards the end of the coaching era and you can get the impression what a bottle-neck this caused in later years when motor vehicles became popular. The second photo is from 1956. It shows the building of Kennards (now Debenhams) and was taken shortly before the chapel was demolished to make way for the widening of Thames Street. That same year Staines Congregational Church moved to a new building in Kingston Road, which it still occupies today. The third photo shows the same area in 2012. On Francis Frith there is an excellent photo of the chapel from 1895.

Thames StreetAt the bottom of Staines High Street turn left into Thames Street and along the pavement down the side of Debenhams soon past Staines Community Centre and over the entrance of Elmsleigh Road, both to your LHS.

Thames Street has probably suffered more through redevelopment than any other in the town. This important riverside street was once a thriving community with lots of character and many very special buildings along a narrow thoroughfare. There were old inns, small specialist family

owned retailers including a hardware shop, a café, a drapers, greengrocers, a pet store, a hairdressers, a sweet shop and a hobby shop. There were old cottages, the fantastic Congregational Church, an old school, Staines’ first cinema, lush green lawns, a bowling green and lots of foliage. Today, just like Clarence Street, it is a duel carriageway cutting off the main part of the town from the river. It is dominated by a huge concrete car park, office blocks and a riverside open-air car park. The family traders were forced out through the 1950’s the 60’s and the 70’s. The beautiful old buildings were also demolished during these times and the dual-carriageway was built and separated the river from the town. It makes you wonder, why would a town cut itself off so much from its main asset (the River Thames)?

The two photos above were taken in 2012 and in the 1960s, both from near the Thames Lodge Hotel and show roughly the same view of Thames Street. The first shows Debenhams in the background and lots of trees in the foreground with the library and museum hiding behind those to the right. On the left are a few trees partly obscuring the Riverside car park. You can also see the duel carriageway which is now Thames Street. However, the photo does not show the whole picture. There are a hint of white lines on the top right which reveals a less pleasant view, and you’ll see what I mean later. The second photo shows some of the old buildings which lined the street, behind Debenhams (or Kennards as it was then), with cars parked next to the pavement and giving the area a sense of community. Also, notice that in the time between taking the photos, Debenhams has acquired an extra level.

Staines Community CentreStaines Community Centre, on the north side of Thames Street and just past the back of Debenhams, was opened in August 2002 by “Penelope Keith, High Sheriff of Surrey”. On the ground floor there is a café open to all for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. There are rooms to hire and it’s a wonderful piece of space over two floors and was provided by the local council.

Swan Arch

To your right across Thames Street is the entrance to the riverside car park and next to this is the second of the two Swan Arches which provide a pedestrian entrance to the Memorial Gardens. They arches were hand-made from stainless steel by Anthony & Simon Robinson. The motifs on the legs were designed by pupils of Kingscroft Junior School, each depicting images of the town. Both have a single swan in flight at the top – the swan represents the symbol of Staines. From the photos below you can see the view looking through the arch towards the river is quite pleasant However, I’m not so sure the same can be said when looking back in the opposite direction.

Margaret Pope SchoolThe School was established in Thames Street in 1874 as a “British School for Girls and Infants”. It was paid for by a government grant and a property trust fund set up by Margaret Pope. It closed in 1903 on the completion of the Kingston Road School. About 1915 it was converted to become Staines’ first cinema, The Palace. This only lasted for just over a decade, after which the building was used as a factory. It was demolished in the early 1970s, even though there was a local campaign to save the building and turn it into a community centre and museum. The school sat where the entrance to Tothill multi-storey car park is now and strangely enough between the present Staines Community Centre and Spelthorne Museum.

Tothill Car ParkThe Tothill car park was built in the 1970s as part of the redevelopment of the town centre. The car park takes its name from Tothill Street which, apart from the current Masonic Hall, was demolished to make way for it. The street was named after a local family of medical practitioners, the last of which was Dr Frederick Charles Tothill who worked as the town’s Medical Officer of Health up to c1923. To make way for the redevelopment most of the old buildings along Thames Street also had to be demolished. The photos below are from 2012 and c1950, the first shows the entrance to Elmsleigh Road and the Tothill car park. It was taken approximately where the large house sat in the left of the second photo. This house was one of many old residences with sprawling gardens onto the river.

From the link to Britain From Above you can see an aerial photo taken in 1928 showing the large old houses which once occupied where the Riverside car park and part of the Memorial Gardens now sit.

The images below show the present views from boats cruising along the River Thames and vehicles going along Thames Street as the look towards the centre of Staines-upon-Thames.

After passing the multi-storey Tothill car park, to our left is Spelthorne Museum and Library. I have included as part of our walk a visit to both (if open), by turning left along South Street and to their entrance in Friend’s Walk.

Spelthorne MuseumSpelthorne Museum first opened in 1980 in the Old Fire Station next to the Town Hall. Towards the end of 2003, the Old Fire Station was sold as part of the Town Hall regeneration and the museums contents went into storage. On 30 th July 2005 the museum re-opened in temporary offices. Then on 21st October 2006, the new professionally designed Spelthorne Museum was opened by television presenter Michael Aspel. It sits overlooking Thames Street with the entrance around the corner in Friends Walk and through Staines Library. The museum contains the original London Stone, plus a replica of the reconstructed face of “Shepperton Woman” (c3640 – 3100BC), sometimes referred to as the first lady of Britain. There are many other exhibitions telling the history of the area through the centuries. These include Prehistoric Spelthorne, Roman Staines, Brewing & Bottling, Fire, Iron Foundries, and Staines Linoleum Industry.

On the wall of the Library, next to the entrance of the museum is a ceramic mural of Staines depicting places of interest and historical information about to the town. It is dated 2002 and was made by pottery students at Staines Adult Learning Centre.

A poster in the museum explains where many of the names of the local areas originated from and their links still held from Saxon Times. From my research, I have added a few extras, plus links to Wikipedia for further reading.

Middlesex - The area of Middle Saxons (between the three kingdoms of Essex, Wessex and Mercia).

Spelthorne: - “Speech Thorne”, a tree where the elders of the community would meet, believed to have been in the Ashford Common area.

Ashford: - Originally called Exford, a ford across the River Axe (possibly once known as the River Ex).

Charlton: - Derived from the word “Ceredentone”, meaning the property of a man called Ceolred.

Halliford: - From the Saxon word Helyaforda, meaning a holy ford, perhaps with a shrine. Another source claims Halliford (holyford) got its name from a hermit, a holy man who lived here in Anglo-Saxon times by the ford, and is said to have performed miracles.

Laleham: - A water meadow with willows, or a river settlement by willow trees.

Littleton: - Originally from “Lytleton”, meaning just what it says, a small town.

Shepperton: - Saxon word is “Scepertone”, meaning a settlement of shepherds – Sheep Walk still exists as a road name.

Staines: - From the word “Stana”, meaning “stones”, perhaps the remains of the Roman town or road. Alternatively, it may have derived from an ancient stone circle which is believed to have been where the roundabout is now just south of Staines bridge – the nine stones or “Negen Stanes”.

Stanwell: - From “Stanwelle”, a stony well or spring.

Sunbury: - From “Sunnanbyrig”, meaning the stronghold of a Saxon chief named Sunna.

To continue our walk, cross over the southern end of South Street using the staggered pelican crossing, then straight towards and soon under the metal railway bridge.

ObeliskThe cast-iron obelisk, to our left, between the now closed BUPA building and the railway bridge, dates from 1837 and is a “Coal & Wine Tax Pole”. This obelisk, like the city posts also included (qv) marks the point at which the City of London boundaries began. The inscription on the post reads “14 & 15 VICT Cap 146”.

Just before BUPA made most of the staff redundant from Thameside House (the building to the right above) in c2009, I spent a few days working here, giving advice to those who were being made unemployed. I’ll always remember they all have perfect teeth and looked great for their years – I suppose perks of the job, and all were very pleasant people.

Before the redevelopment of central Staines in the 1970s, a footpath, called the Packhorse Path, ran north from here along the side of the railway embankment. It passed under two bridges to then join Station Path and provided a short-cut to the station. One of these bridges still exists and provides access to pedestrians from South Street car park to Station Path. The area occupied by Thameside House was also once home to Staines Bowls Club. The club was formed at a meeting held just across the road in the Packhorse Hotel (now Thames Lodge) on 24 th

December 1919. In 1973 the club moved to Fordbridge Road in Ashford and then in 1976 to their present home at Staines Park.

Listed House Laleham RoadThe four large detached houses, to your left, between the railway bridge and Richmond Road all look over Laleham Road, the Queen Victoria Jubilee Gardens and the river. They were built in the mid-19 th century and apart from a few alterations have maintained most of their original features. Each have a striking first floor conservatory enclosed balconies and are locally listed of historically importance as a group.

Continue to walk straight on along the north side of Laleham Road, soon over the entrance to Richmond Road then over the entrance to Prospect Place. After another 75 yards turn left into Gresham Road. Regatta HouseTo the right after crossing over Richmond Road is Regatta House which backs onto the Thames Path. A plaque on the wall states “REGATTA HOUSE, FORMERLY THE S ANTY 1850”. There seems to be a letter missing from the plaque, probably “H” to read SHANTY. However I cannot find any reference to The Shanty on the Internet. The house is most likely named Regatta House because 1850 was when the first Staines Regatta took place, and in recent years it starts on the reach behind the house, although a little further downstream near St Peter’s Church.

The Staines Regatta was the largest event held here on the river for many decades. However, like the Henley Regatta, it was mainly for the better off and the competitors came from well-to-do backgrounds and most were public school educated. The old photo below is taken from across the river and just downstream from the railway bridge.

Between 1891 and 1930 the working class also had their own event, the “Staines & Egham Watermen’s Regatta”. Another was held for children during this time, named the Staines & Egham Juvenile Regatta. It took place not on the main stream of the Thames, but on the shallower waters of the stream between Church Island and the Staines Bank. All three events were hugely popular and thousands attended.

Staines Riverside ClubJust past Regatta House is The Riverside Club, again facing onto the Laleham Road and backing onto the River Thames. This was formerly the Staines Ex-Servicemen’s Club. The club has three bars, a dance hall, a stage and a games room. For more information see http://www.lemonrock.com/riversideclub.

Gresham Road, Richmond Road and Edgell RoadMost of the roads, running away from this section of Laleham Road, do so in the direction of Staines Station. Before 1848, when the railway station was opened, this area was mainly farmland. However, with the station at one side, the river on the other and the town centre nearby, this became prime land for building new houses. During the second half of the 19 th century many fine houses and cottages were built here. A lot of these still survive to this day and many of them are locally listed as being of historical importance.

The first photo below shows the Primitive Methodist chapel on Richmond Road. It was built in 1878, but closed in the 1890s. For years it was used as a small factory and recently has been converted to a residence. The other three show the signs of 19 th century houses, Christmas Cottage, Katrine and Musgrove, all on Gresham Road.

120 yards along Gresham Road, turn right into Beehive Road. Follow to a T-junction then turn left along Edgell Road. Follow it to the end and turn right along Budebury Road.

The Beehive InnThe Beehive Inn, on the corner of Beehive Road and Edgell Road, dates from at least 1874. At this time beehives and other rural pursuits were common in the town and is probably from where the inn takes its name. It was known to be a favourite drinking hole for bargees working on the River Thames during the late 19th and early 20th century. Today, the inn has retained its original character and bed & breakfast is still available.

St Peter’s “Iron Church”In 1885 the congregation of St Peter’s moved from their Mission Chapel in Wyatt Road to a corrugated- iron church, on the corner of Edgell Road and Budebury Road. They remained here until 1894, when the present St Peter’s Church was opened in Laleham Road. The iron church has now been replaced by a block of flats (see photo below), but as you’ll see later, it remained here for many decades as the dining room for the Wyatt Road School.

Sweeps Ditch –Budebury RoadAs you walk along Budebury Road, look across to see the ancient Sweeps Ditch stream flow between the road and the houses on the other side. Also, notice how bridges have been built across the stream so each house can access its driveway. The stream soon disappears off between a bungalow and a row of terraced houses (see photo to the right below). However, it’s not the last time we’ll come across Sweeps Ditch on this part of our walk.

After 100 yards, turn right into Wyatt Road, staying along the RHS pavement. Again at a T-junction turn left, still Wyatt Road. Then go straight on past two concrete bollards onto a metalled footpath.

Wyatt Road Infants’ School

According to British History Online:

“By 1880 the British and National schools between them contained some 660 pupils. In 1884 the girls' and infants' British school was closed and the Education Department demanded that a school board be formed. A board of five members, with the vicar as chairman, was duly elected and during 1885-6 took over all the existing schools and reopened the closed school. The old schools were not replaced for some time, but eventually, new ones having been built, they were all closed in 1903 and 1904. By this time the county council had taken over the functions of the board.” …

The first school erected by the board was that in Wyatt Road; its buildings incorporated the former St. Peter's Mission Hall on the same site. It was opened in 1896 for infants only…

Although the reference above states the school was erected in 1896, as does a plaque on the front of the building. However, it is actually a conversion of the old brick mission hall which was built here in 1873 and bought from the parish in 1895. The school closed in 1974 and the building retains its original façade. In recent years it has been named the Thameside Youth Arts and the Staines Learning Centre.

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Keith Jaggers “Life in Staines” has provided me with a wealth of information, photos and directed me in the right direction to find facts which I may not have. Along this area of the walk it has helped me find out about the origins of the Wyatt Road School, where St Peter’s Iron Church was and an insight into how long it survived. I’m still not sure when the iron church was demolished, but through all research and reading from one of his quotes below, I believe it may have existed as a dining room, which catered for up to 200 pupils, for this small infant’s school until the school closed in 1974.

“I started at Wyatt Road infant school in October 1952, on or just after my fifth birthday. This grim Victorian institution was, as the plaque just inside the front gate still shows, built in 1896, but I only found out very recently that it was in fact converted then from the St Peters Church Mission Hall erected some 25 years earlier, which explains the huge size of the main room…

At lunchtime, whatever the weather, we would troop out along Wyatt Road in file, two-by-two, turning right into Edgell Road, then into the green corrugated-iron clad mission hall on the corner of Budebury Road for our meal. Rissoles, Mince or Spam fritters (my favourite) were served up, complemented by smelly cabbage and those lovely scoops of watery mashed potato with lumps in. We sat at long wooden forms either side of trestle tables, and heaven help any child who did not by then know how to use a knife and fork properly. We queued in line again for maybe bread-and-butter pudding, spotted dick and a dollop of thick lumpy custard, lurid red jelly with a brick of vanilla ice cream, or that strange frothy pink blancmange-custard.”

Wyatt-Edgell Family

When I look at road names I often wonder what their origins are. On researching Wyatt Road, I also found that Edgell Road gets its name from the same source - the Wyatt-Edgell Family who held the Manor of Milton Place at Egham from 1668 – 1917. They also held lands in Staines which were compulsory purchased by the Staines, Wokingham and Woking Railway Company.

Dane More Cottages Wyatt Road and footpath from Wyatt Road towards Staines Park

One member of the family, Edgell Wyatt-Edgell, spent a lot of his time researching the Roman Road from London to Silchester. The old road which crossed the River Thames at Staines (then called Ad Pontes, or in English “by the bridges”). According to British History On Line:

“The great Roman road from the Thames Valley to the south-west crossed the Thames near Staines and ran through Egham parish along the border of the counties of Surrey and Berkshire towards Easthampstead Plain in Berkshire, where it exists as the Devil's Highway. The line of the road was carefully explored about 1840 by Mr. Wyatt Edgell of Milton Place, Egham, and some officers of the Military College, Sandhurst. It ran through Virginia Water, an artificial lake of much later construction, past Englefield Green to the Thames. There is no doubt that the Roman station Ad Pontes, or Pontibus, was near Staines, and from its name appears to have been the passage of the Thames before other bridges were made..”.

After 60 yards the footpath turns left past Knowle Park Infant School and onto Field View Court. Stay straight on along the pavement and soon to a T-junction with road (Burges Way). Turn right along Burges Way, past an NHS car park, to your LHS, and then immediately after crossing a bridge over a small stream turn left through another car park and along a narrow road towards Staines Bowling Club. On reaching the Bowling Club, turn right and onto a footpath into Staines Park.

Staines Bowling ClubAs you saw earlier Staines Bowling Club was formed at a meeting held in the Packhorse Hotel (now Thames Lodge) on 24 th December 1919. In 1973 the club moved to Fordbridge Road in Ashford and then in 1976 to their present home at here at Staines Park.

As you come onto the footpath past the Bowling Club, to your right is a small footbridge over Sweeps Ditch which leads to a pleasant lawned picnic area with wooden benches and tables, surrounded by tall well-manicured hedges.

Staines Park is managed by Spelthorne Borough Council and other facilities here include: tennis courts, a basketball court, football pitches, children’s playground, a resource centre, parking and a model railway. The Staines Society of Model Engineers began in 1945 by soldiers returning from the war. The Society only lasted until the early 1950s, but was restarted again in 1973. In 1978 the rail track opened here and has been used by the Society ever since. Train rides begin on Easter Sunday and then usually on the fourth Sunday of each month from April until the end of October (weather permitting). For exact dates and other information follow the link above to the Society’s website.

At the far side of the bowls club go straight on along a footpath, then just after a few yards veer right at a Y-junction of footpaths to a footbridge. Turn right over the footbridge and follow the footpath along the edge of the park.

As you walk through the park look across to your left to a line of trees on the opposite side. This marks eastern boundary of the park and the course of Sweeps Ditch.

At a T-junction of footpaths, turn left, keeping the open area of the park to your LHS.

The footpath eventually leads past a children’s playground, the resource centre, the model railway, through a car park and out onto a road. The photos below show, the path through the park, the model railway and the resource centre from Commercial Road. You may also notice that on the day I took these photographs, the resource centre was being used as polling station for the local council elections.

Turn right along the road, staying on the RHS pavement. After 350 yards and at T-junction, cross straight over Laleham Road then turn right along the pavement.

Commercial Road AllotmentsTo our right, for most of the way, as we walk along Commercial Road, are allotments (see photo of entrance below). Officially, they are in Staines Park, but are fenced off. They are managed by the local council, and as you can see at Spelthorne’s website, there are over 250 plots here thus making it the largest in the borough. In recent years allotments have become more popular, especially with younger people. However, if you wish to have your own plot, you need to put your name on a waiting list and it may take a few years.

After 100 yards turn left into Penton Road and 60 yards later turn right to cross over to the entrance of Jamnagar Close. Then turn right again and back to Laleham Road.

You may wonder why I have taken you on a slight detour to Jamnagar Close. Also, as you walk back to Laleham Road, you’ll see peculiar looking small white house, named The Lodge, next to the entrance to Riverbank flats. All three places are significant to the section below about St Peters Church. Follow Laleham Road for 400 yards to St Peter’s Church Hall. Turn left between the Church Hall and the Church. This leads to gardens at the back of, or more correctly the front of the church, and soon along a footpath leading too and through a lych-gate onto the river.

St Peters ChurchImmediately over the road you can see an old cement plaque on the back of the church, facing onto the Laleham Road. This probably dates back to when the church was built and seems to give a bit of history. However, it is very difficult to read.

St Peter's Church, Staines, was founded in 1873 by the vicar of St Mary's as a mission chapel. It was first called St Peter's Mission Chapel. A temporary 'iron church' was built circa 1885 and a permanent parish church consecrated in 1894. The church was financed by Sir Edward Clarke, who lived just a short distance downstream in a large house named “Thorncote” (later renamed “Jamnager House”).

The architect was George Fellowes Prynne (1853 – 1927) and the excerpt below is taken from the link to Ruth Sharville’s well-constructed website about Prynne. As a child she was a chorister at St. Peters.

“The Illustrated Church News of 4th August 1894 gives the following account of the building, based on the architect’s own stated description:

The style chosen in design is a free treatment of perpendicular in red brick and stone. The nave is of four bays, twenty six feet wide by eighty feet in length having a height of forty feet to the apex of the waggon roof. The chancel is of the same width and height as the nave. There is a narthex at the west end with western entrance. The tower, which is placed at the south-west end of the south aisle is designed in three stages, and capped with a copper covered spire. In the lower stage on the nave floor level a baptistery is formed.A southern transept with separate entrance forms the nave of a small chapel on the south side of the chancel. On the north side of the chancel are clergy and choir vestries with the organ choir.The altar is elevated by nine steps from the nave floor level, and ample space and height is left above and behind the altar for a baldechin or reredos. One of the main features of the church is the constructional rood screen, which is carried right up into the chancel arch, the portion of which is enriched with tracery. The central figure and rood are designed to be cut out of the solid stonework of the tracery, and the side figures placed on corbels formed in the panels of the tracery. This feature is quite unique, no other example of similar treatment existing. The furniture of the church is of an appropriate and ornate character. Choir stalls have been presented by Sir Edward, and the altar, which is of very elaborate design and highly decorated in gold colours, is a gift of Lady Clarke.”

Sir Edward Clarke (1841 – 1931) was a Conservative politician and a barrister. He served as Solicitor-General (1886 – 1892). In 1895 he famously represented Oscar Wilde in Wilde’s disastrous prosecution of the Marquess of Queensbury for libel. After the trial Wilde was arrested and prosecuted for homosexual practises. Clarke sold his house and its grounds downstream to K S Ranjitsinhji (1872 – 1933), Indian cricketer, politician and “Prince”. He built himself a large house on the river, next to St Peters. The house still exists today as The Vicarage, as shown below. The photo on the right is of Sir Edward and Lady Clarke outside St Peters in the late 1920s

Sir Edward Clarke and his wife were a huge influence on Staines during the late 19 th and early 20th centuries. They were the most prominent couple here then. They gave a lot to the town and also took much pleasure in the years they lived in Staines. At www.Archive.org you can read Edward Clarke’s autobiography about his early life, as a barrister, a politician and as someone who used his own money and time to help the community he enjoyed living amongst.

The quote below is from Edward Clarke’s autobiography.

“I am speaking of my pleasures at Staines, so it would be affectation to omit one of the greatest. That was the building of St. Peter's Church. When I bought Thorncote, the only place of Church of England worship within a mile of the house was a very uncomfortable iron building, too hot in summer and much too cold in winter, in the Edgell Road. Someone suggested that a church should be built, and a subscription list was opened. Two or three sums of 500 each were promised, but after that only small amounts were talked of, and it was clear there would be much difficulty in raising the required sum. A little higher up the river than Thorncote there was a charming site, where a row of fine elms stood along the river-side of a field which it was proposed to let in building plots. I was afraid these trees would be cut down, so I told my neighbours that if they would buy the site I would build a church upon it. The site was secured, and I employed Mr. George Fellowes Prynne, the son of my dear old friend and supporter at Plymouth, the famous Vicar of St. Peter's there, to design the church…”

K S Ranjitsinhji was a very successful first-class cricketer; he played for Cambridge University, Sussex and England. In India he succeeded to Maharaja Jam Sahib of Nawanagar in 1907. With the outbreak of World War I, in August 1914, he declared the resources of his estate could be used by Britain, including “Jamnagar House” at Staines. The house was converted to a hospital (The Prince of Wales Hospital for wounded officers) run by the Red Cross and with a gift of £50k to pay for running costs. As Maharaja he sent several squadrons of the Nawanagar Lancers to the Western Front. He became Chancellor of the Indian Chamber of Princes and represented India at the League of Nations after the First World War. Ranjitsinhji moved back into his house at Staines after the war. After the formation the newly founded Irish Free State in 1922, he became the first head of state to officially visit. He bought the 50,000-acre Ballynahinch estate in Connemara and moved there in 1924. This helped popularise tourism in the state at a tumultuous time in Irish history. He died at Jamnagar Palace, India in 1933, aged 60. Ranji is remembered in India by the Ranji Trophy, a national cricket tournament inaugurated in 1934. At Staines his house has been demolished, but the lodge still remains. Mid-20th century residences now cover the large grounds it stood in. Jamnagar Close is one such development built on the site and remembers his time here.

One thing I have always thought strange about St. Peters is the church backs onto the road and the front proudly overlooks the river, with the lych-gate immediately adjacent to the Thames Path. The gate was presented by Sir Edward & Lady Clarke in 1908 on their Silver Wedding anniversary. It is where the congregation is supposed to pass through on their way to the church, but I’m sure most don’t come from the direction of the towpath. However, people passing by in boats and walking can appreciate it more than the cars speeding by on the Laleham Road.

In the grounds of the church, next to the lych-gate, is a small memorial garden remembering those who served in the Burma Campaign (1941 – 1945) during World War II.

St. Peters featured in the 1976 movie “The Omen” in a scene where Ambassador Thorn tried to kill his son after being convinced of the diabolical origins of young Damien.

After walking through the lych-gate turn right onto Thames towpath and after 300 yards under the railway bridge. Houseboat ReachWith the coming of the railway Staines became a popular “country” resort on the river, away from the hustle, bustle and smog of London. For the less well-off, they would only come here on a day ticket and have to travel back to their humble homes and drab life in the evenings. For the better-off they could stay overnight in one of the town’s hotels or inns. However, for the wealthiest, they could buy or rent a large houseboat on “Houseboat Reach” and entertain guests and have them to stay. Houseboat Reach was the name given in Edwardian Times to a half mile stretch of the Thames, on the Surrey bank, opposite St Peters and downstream from the railway bridge. It was lined with luxurious houseboats and many parties went on in the evenings. Servants were brought in from the posh London homes and entertainers were hired. Boats were illuminated with lanterns and it was a wonderful sight to behold. Today all the large houseboats have gone, there is no path along the river, on the Surrey side, and the only boats are the small launches moored at the bottoms of gardens belonging to private houses facing onto the river.

Below the first photo shows the large houseboats on the Surrey side with the railway bridge in the distance. The second photo is from 1895 and from the Francis Frith website.

Queen Victoria Jubilee GardensAfter we continue along the towpath we pass the small Jubilee Memorial Gardens, opened in 1897 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria in June the same year. The stone base of the cast iron lamp post is inscribed:

“This ground was purchased out of public subscriptions raised by the Staines Committee for the Commemoration of the Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Victoria. June 1897”

You can also take a break here by having a seat in one of the old benches I mentioned earlier at the start of the walk. Most are really well preserved and have lasted the effects of time. They were all made in Johnson & Sharp Foundry which was situated next to the Blue Anchor, on the corner of the High Street and Thames Street.

Tims Boat YardBoatbuilding along the Thames has been a tradition going back to at least the Prehistoric period. Rafts and dugout canoes from tree trunks were most likely the earliest forms. A preserved dugout canoe was found at Shepperton in 1812, and another at Beasley’s Ait, Sunbury, in 1966.

Across the River Thames from here, you can see Tims’ Boatyard. As far as I know the last remaining boatyard in Staines. Tims started in the late 1870s when John Tims set up a boat building business in Church Street. In 1928 the firm of John Tims & Son moved to the south bank of the

River Thames, just downstream from the railway bridge. Here they continued to build a variety of boats, hire out smaller craft and later hired out launches and cruisers by the week, thus allowing people to journey up the river as far as Lechlade and downstream to London.

In 2012 we have seen the new royal barge, the Gloriana, built as a tribute to Queen Elizabeth II for her Diamond Jubilee. Tims, for years, held the honour of being entrusted to repair and renovate an older royal barge. The King’s State Barge was a huge boat made of English oak and built in 1689 as a gift from William III to Mary II. The photos below show Tims’ Boatyard today, the grave of John Tims at St. Mary’s and an 1910 photo of the King’s State Barge being tested with Tims in the background.

Staines Railway BridgeStaines Railway Bridge was completed in 1856. It carries the London Waterloo to Reading Line and the London Waterloo to Chertsey via Hounslow. Staines Station was opened eight years earlier (1848) on the London Waterloo to Windsor Line. Hence with the coming of the second line Staines became a junction and for many years the station was named Staines Junction.

On the riverside face of the railway bridge abutment are three vertical rollers attached to the lower part of the buttresses on the towpath. These date from the early 19th century and were to prevent the towropes of the barges from fraying and causing damage to the buttresses by wear. They could also be used as a gentle friction braking system if required. As they are relevant to local history they are classified as a listed building.

As you can see from most of the photos of the railway bridge, there is a yellow stripe painted along the top of the bridge. This was added in the 1980s to make it more visible to swans and stop them from flying into the bridge.

Artist Douglas Elston Myers worked on a ten year project to paint all 110 bridges over the navigable Thames. He did this between 1996 and 2006. If you visit his wonderful website you can see all of these, including the Staines Rail Bridge and Staines Bridge (both below).

After walking under the railway bridge the footpath veers right and up to the road. Here turn sharp left and onto a narrow footpath, immediately before the first building, and back to the river. On reaching the river turn right and behind the Thames Lodge Hotel.

For some reason I have always thought the footpath behind the Thames Lodge Hotel was the Thames Path as it’s the first opportunity to get back to the river. However, there is no direction sign from the road as the official Thames Path continues along the pavement, past the hotel, and then turns left to re-join the river.

"Hook on" and "Shoot off"The two adjoining cottages immediately upstream from the bridge date from the 19 th century and are named "Hook on" and "Shoot off". Here the towpath switched banks and the process of getting the barges across the river was known as “Shooting Off”. It involved making the horses gain maximum momentum before casting off the tow-rope to shoot the barge across the stream. The horses were walked around via Staines Bridge or taken across by ferry, then re-hitched on the other side. Coming downstream, the barge crossed using the help of the current.

Thames Lodge HotelThe hotel dates from 17th century (or maybe earlier) and was originally The Woolpack, named after the wool carrying barges. The cottages "Hook on" and "Shoot off" were renovated and incorporated into the hotel. It changed names to the Packhorse Hotel and later to the Thames Lodge

Hotel – a bit more posh I suppose. You can see an old photo, dated 1895, of the Packhorse Hotel, from the river, at Francis Frith – it’s not a lot different from today. The photos below show the front of the hotel, the footpath down the side of it to the river and the path behind it.

Staines Boat ClubWhile walking behind the Thames Lodge Hotel look across the river and you will see Staines Boat Club. According to their club website Staines Boat Club was established in 1894. However, Wikipedia and many other sources on the Internet state it was founded in 1851. Old results from the Henley Regatta seem to reinforce the older claim, as Staines had prize-winners in 1858 and 1871. We learnt earlier the first Staines Regatta was in 1850 and the Staines Amateur Regatta is now organised by Staines Boat Club. I’m not sure when and where the club was first based, but would really appreciate if anyone could clarify dates and fill in a few gaps on the history.

Thames PathAs the path comes out from behind the Thames Lodge Hotel stay straight on, keeping the river to your left and signed Thames Path.

The Thames Path is a long distance “National Trail” opened in 1996. It follows the River Thames for 184 miles, from its source near Kemble in the Cotswolds to the Thames Barrier in Greenwich. The route of the National Trail comes along the Thames from the west through Egham, crosses over Staines Bridge and continues along the northern bank, through Staines and on towards London.

Sweeps Ditch Pumping HouseIf you look to your right you’ll see a small round building in the eastern side of the Riverside car park. This is the Sweeps Ditch Pumping House. Sweeps Ditch was originally an ancient man-made mill stream which flowed through Staines. In Roman & Medieval Times it formed the western and northern boundary of Town Island (sometimes referred to as High Street Island). It was fed by the waters of the River Clone, but with the High Street redevelopment and the building of the Elmsleigh Centre in the 1970s the water source was cut. A new water source was provided when Thames Water installed a pump house here in 1982 and this takes water from the Thames. The stream no longer goes through the centre of the town, instead it goes underground in a pipe across Thames Street and South Street, the pipe then goes in a straight line for 300m along the south side of South Street to feed the original open channel between the Elmsleigh Shopping Centre car park and the railway. This heads south to enter the Thames, just below Penton Hook Lock. Probably, the best place to view the old watercourse is as it flows south along the east sedge of Staines Park. The photos below show the Pumping House, the weather vane on top of it and the trees which follow the line of Sweeps Ditch through Staines Park.

Sails, Viewing Gallery and Lifeline FountainTo the left of the footpath and immediately past the car park, the sails canopies look down over a circular viewing gallery. A series of circular stone terraces lead down to a planked platform, with a rail next to, and overlooking the River Thames. Disabled access is provided by a ramp which leads down from the right hand side. To the right, and along the edge of the garden area, is a straight narrow water channel with a circular fountain at either edge (I believe called the Life-line Fountain). This extends for almost 60 m directly towards the swan arch we passed earlier, at Thames Street.

Dove of Peace

Soon to your right and just set back from the Thames Path is the red brick Staines Methodist Church. On the wall overlooking the Memorial Gardens is a relief carving of a dove that symbolises peace in biblical tales.

According to British History On-line the famous preacher and founder of the Methodist movement, John Wesley, once preached in Staines:

“John Wesley visited Staines in 1771 and preached in a house which had just been fitted up for the purpose. (fn. 49) He recorded an enthusiastic reception and according to the Anglican authorities the number of Methodists increased between 1778 and 1810. (fn. 50)”

The first Methodist chapel at Staines was built in 1854 on the south side Kingston Road and in the vicinity of the new police station. In 1890 it was replaced by a larger spired Gothic church on the opposite side of Kingston Road. The present church, overlooking the Memorial Gardens, was completed in 1987. Staines also once had a “Primitive Methodist” chapel, built in Richmond Road in 1878. This also closed in 1890, but the building has been preserved and is now a private dwelling. Origami SwansThe sculpture by Tom Brown (c2002) is made of folded polished sheets of mirror steel and depicts a swan and her signets. The swan represents the symbol which appears on the Borough coat of arms. The steel mirrors reflect the sparkling waters of the River Thames.

Memorial GardensThe Town Hall was completed in 1880. To make way for it the small spired market-house (dating from 1723) was pulled down together with a number of houses to the east. This widened the street to form the Market Square and provided the site on which the Memorial Gardens were laid out in 1897.

Enhancement of the Memorial Gardens along the riverside, between the Town Hall and the Thames Lodge Hotel, commenced in October 2001 and was completed in September 2002. This meant decreasing the size of the Riverside Car Park, increasing the area covered by the gardens and adding many new features. Since then many new features have also been added.

In 2001, and before additions to the Memorial Gardens, some archaeological work was carried out just south-east of the Town Hall, in the Riverside car park and the Market Square. This unveiled evidence of flood defences going back through the years to the 1 st century AD when the Romans first were here.

On reaching the Origami Swans we have come full circle in our walk around Staines, but to finish off let’s do another smaller circle, this time around the garden behind the Town Hall. Turn sharp right and follow the circular path keeping the grass area to your LHS. Continue on this circle past the swan arch, along the side of the Town Hall and back past the “Dancing Fountains with Five Swimmers” towards the river. Stop next to the London Stone at the end of our walk. The reason I have taken you around this circle is because the architect of the Riverside Gardens seemed to love circles and incorporated them into many aspects of the gardens. If you look at an aerial view on Google you’ll see what I mean.

The reason I have decided to finish the walk at this point should be obvious if you have read all of what has gone before. Here the Town Hall is behind you; the Thames in front; it was the bottom of the old High Street; it was from here where earlier bridges crossed the river; a replica of an ancient stone next to us; you can see Staines Bridge to your right; the railway bridge to your left; a new pier which makes up for loosing older ones; stories of ghosts, ancient inns, religious sites and wool merchants all around, and across the river the most preserved part of the town. I don’t believe there is a more appropriate place to finish the walk around Staines, and I really hope you enjoyed it and will take some great memories from the experience.

If you ever visit Staines to enjoy this walk around its historical sites and are staying for a few days there are many things to see just within a few miles of the town.