a toast to scotland and beyond · a brief history of scotch whisky (from the gaelic uisge beatha,...
TRANSCRIPT
A Toast to Scotland and Beyond
by Alex J Pithie with a salute to the drink’s finest partners
A Drink In Common
For many longer-stay visitors to Thailand, the differences between Thais and Western interlopers remain almost
unfathomable. With a view to writing his own book, one friend of the writer spent ten years trying to figure out
and pinpoint precisely just what were the precise traits and idiosyncrasies – the reasons which made the two tribes
so very separate in outlook, attitude and behaviour.
Yes, we are different and I have learned that to become more tolerant of the consequences of those differences, one
must be more willing to acclimatise to the Thai culture by embracing their values and ideas and even customs. A
little careful thought and examination of the two worlds we occupy can be very revealing.
We of the fair skinned peoples of the northern hemisphere look different, act differently and think differently too for
a number of very good reasons. I am no professor of sociology or anthropology but I see the explanation couched in
the origins of the two separate cultures – Hunters and Gatherers – primitive types who literally came from
different worlds even way back then.
Clearly the northern apes millions of years ago survived the crippling cold winters huddled in caves wrapped in
stinking skins, venturing out only to drag the wife by the hair to the river for a drink, or to get something hard
and heavy and hunt down the weakest, dumbest wild animal to be cut up and shared between the hungry cave
dwellers.
Once the trick of igniting flame had been perfected, later the spoils of the kill would be grilled over a nice big fire.
By contrast our Asian counterparts meantime were rising in the morning, picking fresh produce growing wild at
the front door, scooping fresh fish from the ponds of Asia and deciding which of the huge array of fruits hanging
heavy from the trees they were to enjoy before or after their afternoon nap, on the accommodating shady side of the
jungle. Occasionally they would stir to catch a wild pig by digging and disguising a hole, or trap a bird somehow for
a tasty barbecue in the cool dusk of oriental paradise.
Quite a contrast then, all those years ago. And not surprising then that we have very different outlooks even today,
with the ‘raiders’ or Hunters from the frozen Northern Hemisphere still intent on aggressively hunting down their
modern-day quarry and opportunity and yes – their partners too. It’s how things are still done in Europe and the
US and Australia. The primitive DNA keeps those tough qualities hard-wired into the tribes of Europe,
wherever they end up prevailing.
Likewise in Asia. The Gatherers stick to what they know best – gathering. Fruit, vegetables, rice, fish, poultry,
and the occasional bit of meat. And they are as expert at gathering as we, the hairy -assed Europeans are at
hunting.
And now that the twain do meet, the Hunter is mystified why any people – Thai or otherwise – can be so passive
and tolerant and uncontroversial – lacking in fight or the desire to beat their opposition to a pulp.
Correct me if I’m wrong but Rugby, American Football and Ice Hockey are sports of the Northern Hemisphere
which revolve around the necessity to some degree at least to beat the shit out of the opposition to win. And let’s be
fair. They are not really big attractions in Asia today at all – even after all the televised hype and promotion.
The gatherers prefer soccer, golf – the gentler side of sport!
Things in Common
It is certainly not a case of never the twain shall meet however. Indeed over the centuries,
the Thai nation has welcomed people from virtually every nation and is endearingly
generous and unjudgemental in welcoming all races and cultures to its shore. Of course the
country’s economy has grown exponentially in parallel with the explosion of the global tourist
industry, and the people of Thailand in the main have become comfortable with the fact
that this quiet invasion has filled the hotels, restaurants and bars, created jobs and generally
helped the country toward a new prosperity as it entered the 21st century.
As a Scot arriving here in the late nineteen eighties I have to admit I was fascinated,
confused and often frustrated by the differences in attitudes and shortfalls in awareness I
discovered almost immediately on arrival.
I knew nothing about anything and had to learn from scratch – the language included – and
to learn to say the right thing, have the proper manners, and to generally forget all I had ever
learned in Scotland about social interaction, dumping my brutish Scottish ways and
mannerisms in favour of a natural but to say the least, rigid etiquette handed down from
generation to generation.
Much of it is feudal in origin and of course this predominantly deferential protocol rubbed this
die-hard Scottish socialist the wrong way and sparks would fly. Off me! But I soon cottoned
on that to live here and not insult every other shopkeeper or wait ress on a daily basis, I would
have to get my Thai street smarts together
On both sides of what I call the Great Rice Divide there are similarly entrenched attitudes
described as ‘culture’ – we both breathe oxygen but appear to believe the other lives
breathing nitrogen, as it were.
Oddly enough the lower down the food chain you are the worst it is. The rich and well-to-do
occupy a well-established common ground in any culture, and quickly cotton on to the
etiquette de jour wherever they land, an etiquette and formal protocol pioneered by the
diplomatic corps over the centuries.
But the less-well-disposed proletarians have no such grounding, and soon enter the all-too-
common downward social spiral, inevitably offending one and all with angry outbursts and
unwelcome plain speaking, however appropriate such a reaction might have been ‘back
home’.
With help from friends and the unexpectedly offended, I began to get the hang of things
and settled in to my own ways of dealing with the cultural anomalies, adopting a cool heart
and warm smile, and with all my colourful Scottish cursing now done well under my breath.
But embattled as I was in the early days it was a rich period in my life learning so much about
a very special country and culture. I loved the people, most of the food, the weather and
great relaxed attitude heralded by the gentle welcomes given by all.
I’ll Drink To That
As a drinker too I noticed the Thais liked to wash their food down with their own beers, or
spend an evening chatting the hind-legs off each other getting gently sozzled on beer or
their own ‘whisky’ – ‘Mekong’ or ‘Sang Som’ – while the often animated conversations
stretch further into the night.
Neither Mekong nor Sang Som are whiskies, and Mekong is actually a rum, but that’s another
story. (See later pages)
The fact is that this gentle love of liquor, predominantly among the Thai working classes, and
their preferences have changed over the generations in line perhaps with the upsurge in
tourism and the growth of the middle class, whose rapid rise also coincides with the
popularity of Scotch whisky in Thailand – or vice versa!
Soon real whiskies were turning up on the shelves of 7-11’s, but these – Glenfiddich among
them - were dwarfed in popularity by what we must call the ‘Bad Pretenders’ – legally
concocted Scottish unbranded blends such as ‘Black Cat’ and ‘Braemar’ – rumoured to be
shipped to Asia from Scotland as blends in powder form, and re-watered into the very unreal
thing in the Philippines. Then shipped around Asia, principally to Thailand where the demand
for cheap whisky had as we learned earlier been established long since with local fire-water
lighting the fuse.
Today, in any 7-11 across the nation, there are a number of blended atrocities available for
as little as US$8 a bottle, but we are not taking whisky here. We are talk ing poor quality
whisky-coloured water with a negligible alcohol content and no joy associated with the
taste, body or otherwise in the drinking thereof.
It may be a cheap and cheerful option for the drinking masses, but to the well-informed,
uncompromising whisky-drinking community it is a travesty and this essay intends to do
something about it.
I for one can certainly confirm that Thais today know much more about whiskies than they
did just 20 years ago, and that they have come to love drinking from the exalted range of
quality blended Scottish whiskies imported directly from Scotland. And a fair few are also
now educated to the fact that real Scott ish whisky is entirely delivered under the title of single
malt, a carefully conceived drinking pleasure which is unadulterated by any other brand,
blend or potion and which stands entirely on its own delivering a taste and ‘nose’ and
drinking experience that for a number of reasons – not all easily explained - only a Scottish
single malt whisky can truly deliver.
A Brief History of Scotch
Whisky (from the Gaelic Uisge beatha, "water of life") has been produced in Scotland since
at least the fifteenth century, when it made its first appearance in print, but it is believed to
have an unwritten history predating this perhaps by many centuries. The precise origins of
Scotland's national tipple remain shrouded in mystery. Scholars believe that spirits were first
produced in the Middle East in the eighth or ninth century for use in the preparation of
medicinal tinctures, and it is likely that the secret of distillation was brought to Scotland and
Ireland, then at the westernmost fringes of the known world, by monks who had learned the
art from Arab doctors. The earliest whiskies made in Scotland would seem unfamiliar to
modern drinkers, more modern methods of refinement and the cask-ageing process not yet
having been developed. The raw spirit, as it emerged from the still, would have been rough
and unpalatable, so it would be flavoured with infusions of local herbs and berries. One thing
that has remained constant, though, is the status of malted barley as the main ingredient for
the finest whiskies.
"Malting" is the process in which the grain destined to make up the dram is allowed to
partially germinate before its growth is interrupted by baking in an oven. This natural process
releases the seed's energy reserves from the form of starch into sugars, which are accessible
to the yeast that will convert them into alcohol. The peat used to fire the ovens in which the
malt is dried lends a characteristic flavour, much beloved of connoisseurs, to the final
product. The next stage in production is to grind the malt and dissolve it in water to produce
a "mash", in a vessel known as a "mash-tun". Scotland's natural abundance of fresh, clean
water from burns and springs lends itself to this method of drinks production, and the
character of the local water supply accounts for much of the difference between the
distinctive personalities of Scotland's whisky-producing regions. The mash is heated, to
maximise the solubility of the ingredients, and the liquor drained off in preparation for
fermentation. This process is repeated twice to ensure all the nutrients have been extracted
from the malt. The resulting malty broth (known as "wort") is cooled so as not to kill the yeast,
a liv ing organism, used in the next stage: fermentation.
Wort for use in whisky is fermented in a similar way to other brewed products such as beer.
Yeast is added to the mix and allowed to grow and develop. Brewer's yeast, known to
scientists as , is a micro-organism that feeds on the sugars in the wort as it grows, and
produces alcohol as a by-product of its metabolism. Because of the biological nature of the
fermentation process, it is imperative that the equipment used is clean and sterile: the
presence of any unwanted organisms such as bacteria could disrupt the carefully-controlled
conditions and result in a product that was unusable for distillation into whisky.
When fermentation is finished, it is time to distil the spirit. Whisky is traditionally distilled in
copper stills operating in pairs. The process takes advantage of the fact that alcohol's boiling
point is lower than that of water, so that as the fermented "wash" is heated, the alcohol
begins to turn to vapour before the water. The vapours are collected and re-liquefied to
produce a spirit of much higher alcoholic concentration than the original wash. The first still
produces "low wines", containing roughly 20 percent alcohol by volume, which are then
passed into the second still to be distilled again into "feints", of around 70 percent.
The feints, when they have been matured in oak casks for a minimum of three years for
blended whiskies or eight years for single malts, become the whisky that is known and loved
all over the world. The cask-strength whisky, which packs a punch at 70-75 percent alcohol, is
usually diluted to a more market-friendly 40 percent before sale, though the cask-strength
spirit is available to aficionados through specialist outlets.
Whisky has been produced in Scotland for many hundreds of years, and since the nineteenth
century this has been done under strict licence, rather than as the cottage industry it once
was. The licensing system ensures the quality and safety of the product (safety is a major
concern in distillation: improperly produced spirits can be highly poisonous), as well as
securing revenue for the exchequer. Under the system of regulation, production of Scotch
whisky has flourished and it has found markets all over the world, which are protected by
international law. No drink distilled outside Scotland, nor aged for less than three years, may
be legally described as "Scotch", defending the reputation of our national drink from cheap
foreign imitators.
WHISKY - A Definition
While not daft enough to suppose or propose that Scotland is the only place you will find this
treat being distilled, the Scots can claim to own the origins of the name at least.
If you were to have been around in medieval times the name that this much-admired fiery
liquid enjoyed in various transcripts published as far back as the 14th century, was Aqua
Vitae, a Latin term from the scholarly language prevailing at the time. Translated directly or
as found in the Gaelic language of the day that name was uisge beatha not to be confused
with usquebaugh, a drink of the time too, but a compounded liquor with all kinds of herbs
and spices added.
Uisge beatha and Aqua Vitae both mean ‘water of life’ and in tandem with the decline of
Gaelic as the Scottish national language, the complex original construction has since the
Middle Ages been gently hammered into the handily Anglified name of ‘whisky’, the name
we use today for any such drink distilled in Scotland, Canada and Japan.
JAPAN
It is fun to dismiss the Japanese as little more than copyists but interestingly whisky distilling
was introduced to Japan after the Japanese chemist Masataka Taketsuru arriv ed in Scotland
in 1918 on a mission to find out how whisky was made. He left again in 1920 with a Scottish
bride and after serving brief apprenticeships with the Longmorn and Hazelburn distilleries. He
attended a summer school in chemistry at Glasgow University and by the time he landed in
Japan again, was ready to pass along what he had learned.
He was quickly recruited by Shinjiro Torii who was planning a whisky distillery at Oh-Yamazaki,
a name familiar to those who embrace the brand of Suntory whisky, a product often
blended with Scottish whiskies to achieve interesting flavours for discerning Japanese and
other customers.
The rest is history and Taketsuru left Suntory eventually and established his own distillery in the
mountainous island of Hokkaido where he found a landscape and climate similar to
Scotland and the cold melt-waters he wanted and peat too, providing two of the key
components of any single malt whisky produced in Scotland. The name Yoichi sprang from
this unlikely location and today Yoichi even offers a single malt as well as a range of quality
blends.
But the Japanese are doing a wonderful job by all accounts.
If you like your whisky, especially Scotch whisky, then you owe it to yourself to try some of the
Japanese stuff. Some say it’s the next big thing in terms of trend, not history. Japan has been
making whisky for over a century, and its most famous brand, the Yamazaki, is celebrating its
90th birthday this year.
Since the first case of Scotch whisky reached Japan in 1872 and immediately kicked off a
scramble to start producing home grown versions, Yamazaki was born and from there to
Suntory, the brewery and distillery giant that still owns the brand today. The slogan of
Suntory’s whisky division is “The art of Japanese whisky since 1923.”
Japan has a long history of whisky production, with a focus on higher end single malts, often
aged 12 or more years. The change is that they are increasingly becoming available and
publicized in places like America and in 2012 the New York Times reported that Suntory’s US
whisky sales jumped 44 per cent in twelve months.
Whisky expert and author David Broom described the eastern nation’s distillation as
possessing “a clarity of aroma that singles it out. Its absence of a cereal background note
also differentiates it from Scotch, as does the use of the intensely aromatic Japanese oak.”
Celebrating its 90th birthday, the Yamazaki is the most widely available Japanese single malt
in the US. At the 2012 World Whiskies Awards, for example, Suntory's Yamazaki 25-year-old
was voted World's Best Single Malt, while Nikka won the top spot in the Blended Malt
category. Suntory now exports well over 10,000 cases a year to the United States alone, with
France and the UK not far behind. With their exceptional equilibrium, smoothness and
delicacy, these whiskies are redefining an ancient art.
Suntory’s three leading whiskies are more like Scotch than most other whiskies - American,
Irish, Canadian and the styles of the two countries are far more similar than different.
Here are Suntory’s top three:
Hibiki 12 Blend ($65): Suntory says: “A wonder of fruity, clean, rich taste. America.
Hakushu 12 Single Malt ($60): Suntory says: “Rich fruity aroma combined with soft smoke.
Yamazaki 12 Single Malt ($50): Suntory says: “Delicate and elegant.
But we digress.
AMERICA
While whiskey, distilled in Ireland and America is certainly different from the Scott ish variety, it
is simply an unspoken convention that the ‘e’ be added, and in indeed the quality America
bourbon ‘Maker’s Mark’ for example, describes itself as a whisky with no ‘e’ for no other
reason than that’s a fact.
For the record, American whiskey is produced in three classic styles and is sold as Bourbon,
Rye Whiskey and Tennessee Sour Mash.
Bourbon – was originally distilled in Bourbon
County, Kentucky and its principal ingredients
are corn or maize, with between twenty
percent and thirty percent of rye or wheat and
some malted barley added. The difference
between the various excellent bourbons on the
market today is principally down to what they
call the ‘mash bill’ – the proportion of corn to
smaller grains used, and peculiar to these
distilleries alone – the yeast strain.
Rye whiskey was originally distilled exclusively
from rye, but these days the process is closer to
bourbon production but with the 51 percent
corn component in bourbon substituted with
rye. The other ingredients include suitably secret
proportions of malted barley and corn in the
mash.
Tennessee Sour Mash is produced in much the same way as bourbon and rye whiskey but in
a method known as the Lincoln County Process, the distilled spirit is filtered through a ten-
foot-deep bed of charcoal ahead of being stored in casks.
Popular American blends include blended rye and bourbon mixes matched in strict 49
percent- 51 percent proportions and blended American whiskeys which legally comprise a
minimum of 20 percent straight whiskey and the rest being neutral spirit. This guarantees a
smoother, lighter-bodied drink.
There can be no doubting the popularity of American whiskeys across world markets today
and there is certainly no doubt as to the quality of these carefully produced and quality-
controlled tipples.
Whiskey Cocktails
The first whiskey cocktails appeared in New Orleans in the 1830s, and during their
golden age—from 1880 to 1912—they became more ambitious. The Manhattan
reigned over New York City, while the Bourbon Old Fashioned was introduced in
Louisville.
Whiskey Sour
1 ½ fl oz whiskey of choice
1 ½ Tbsp fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp simple syrup (50/50 superfine sugar and water; mix, and use when the
cloudiness clears)
Shake ingredients with ice and strain into an old-fashioned glass. Garnish with a
cherry and a slice of orange.
Mint Julep
1 Tbsp simple syrup
2 sprigs mint (use tender, young sprigs—they last longer and look better in the glass)
2 fl oz bonded bourbon
Muddle one sprig of mint in a mixing glass with syrup. Add the bourbon and strain
into a highball glass filled with crushed ice. Swirl with a bar spoon until the outside of
the glass frosts. Garnish with a sprig of mint.
Manhattan
2 ¼ fl oz blended whiskey
¾ fl oz Italian sweet vermouth
2 dashes angostura bitters
Stir with ice to chill, and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with a cherry.
CANADA
Strangely perhaps, given their long-established Scottish heritage, the Canadians favour rye
whisky production and have a less regimented composition control protocol, and their
whisky in terms of content can be much more broadly defined under law. But must adhere to
the rules laid down by the Scots that all product must be laid down for a three-year minimum
a British law promulgated in the Immature Spirits Act of 1915, amended in 1918, that all
whiskies be bonded for three years prior to bottling. The mashes used can contain
combinations of rye, malted rye, barley, malted barley, corn and wheat. Fermentation
involves a number of different yeasts and they use different methods of distillation involving
American style stills and or Coffey stills at different strengths.
The high quality end product is matured invariably in new casks or more often in ex-brandy
casks and used Bourbon casks. The comparatively relaxed regulations allow the addition of
flavourings such as sherry, wine and fruit juices.
Hiram Walker’s Canadian Club employs an unusually long distillation process that produces a
very clean master whisky, which is then blended with neutral spirits and is internationally
appreciated as it is so well suited for mixed drinks and cocktails. Canadian Club is a typical
Canadian blend using triple-distilled corn spirit, fermented with a certain yeast, a double-
distilled flavouring spirit and a single-distilled spirit made from rye, malted rye and barley.
IRISH
Irish whiskey takes us closer to the original Scottish method but they have their own unique
methods and techniques while adhering to the definition of the liquor that it be distilled in
Ireland from choice cereals, matured in oak cask for at least three years and bottled at no
less than 40 proof.
A favourite Irish whiskey is the pot-still whiskeys made from a mix of malted and unmalted
barley in pot stills. In early times, rye, wheat and oats were also combined producing a heavy
liquor which was traditionally triple-distilled to lighten the end product. There are only three
distilleries in Ireland today and Midleton and Cooley distilleries in County Cork and County
Louth respectively produce pot-still whiskey.
The third distillery is Bushmills in County Antrim which produces authentic Irish malt whiskey
from a mash of malted barley in pot stills.
Irish whiskey as it is known around the world is a blend of malt, grain and pot-still whiskeys and
is produced only at the Midleton Distillery which first produces nearly a dozen different single
whiskeys which are then blended to make upwards of thirty blended whiskeys including the
world renowned Jameson’s.
SCOTLAND
“cratur” (Scottish/Irish)
a person in sad or miserable circumstances; a foolish or ridiculous person; whisky We of course don’t mean to offend anyone by suggesting we have kept the best until last ,
but as good Scottish-born, single malt whisky drinkers, we have little choice.
Legend has that St Patrick introduced distilling to Ireland in the fifth century AD and that the
secrets traveled with the Dalriadic Scots when they arrived in Kintyre around AD500. St Patrick
had apparently acquired the knowledge in Spain and France, where the distilling process
might originally have applied to perfume, then to wine, and finally to fermented mashes of
cereals in countries where grapes were not plentiful.
The spirit was first commonly made in monasteries, and chiefly used for medicinal purposes,
being prescribed for the preservation of health, the prolongation of life, and for the relief of
colic, palsy and even smallpox. There were monastic distilleries in Ireland in the late-12th
century.
The primitive equipment used at the time and the lack of scientific expertise meant that the
spirit produced in those days was probably potent, and occasionally even harmful. During
the course of the 15th century, along with better still design, the dissolution of the monasteries
contributed to an improvement in the quality of the spirits produced. Many of the monks,
driven from their sanctuaries, had no choice but to put their distilling skills to use. The
knowledge of distilling then quickly spread to others.
The increasing popularity eventually attracted the attention of the Scottish parliament, which
introduced the first taxes on malt and the end product in the latter part of the 17th century.
Ever increasing rates of taxation were applied following The Act of Union with England in
1707, when England set out to tame the rebellious clans of Scotland and the distillers were
driven underground.
A long and often bloody battle arose between the excisemen, or ‘gaugers’ as they were
known and the illicit distillers, for whom the excise laws were alien in both their language and
their inhibiting intent. Smuggling became standard practice for some 150 years and there
was no moral stigma attached to it. Ministers of the Kirk made storage space available under
the pulpit, and the illicit spirit was, on occasion, transported by coffin - any effective means
was used to escape the watchful eyes of the Excise men.
Clandestine stills were cleverly organised and hidden in nooks and crannies in the heather-
clad hills, and smugglers organised signaling systems from one hilltop to another whenever
excise officers were seen to arrive in the vicinity. By the 1820s, despite the fact that as many
as 14,000 illicit stills were being confiscated every year, more than half the whisky consumed
in Scotland was being swallowed painlessly and with pleasure, without contributing a penny
in duty.
This flouting of the law eventually prompted the Duke of Gordon, on whose extensive acres
some of the finest illicit whisky in Scotland was being produced, to propose in the House of
Lords that the Government should make it profitable to produce whisky legally.
In 1823 the Excise Act was passed, which sanctioned the distilling of whisky in return for a
license fee of £10, and a set payment per gallon of proof spirit. Smuggling died out almost
completely over the next ten years and, in fact, a great many of the present day distilleries
stand on sites used by smugglers of old.
Today, the legal definition of Scotch Whisky demands that it must be produced at a distillery
in Scotland from water and malted barley to which only the whole grains of other cereals
may be added all of which have been processed at that distillery into a mash, converted to
a fermentable state only by the addition of yeast.
To qualify as the best it must be distilled at an alcoholic strength by volume of less than 94.8
percent so that the distillate (‘the cratur’) has an aroma and taste derived from the raw
materials used in its production.
Then it must be matured in an excise warehouse under lock and key in oak casks of a
capacity not exceeding 700 litres, the period of maturation being not less than three years.
Thus are retained the colour, aroma and taste derived from the raw materials used in its
production and maturation and to which no substance other than water and spirit and spirit
caramel has been added.
The Scotch Whisky Act of 1988 also prohibits the production in Scotland of whisky other than
Scotch whisky as defined.
Whiskies distilled in Scotland:
Scotch Whisky - The name implies a blended whisky produced in Scotland
Scotch Malt Whisky - This name implies a malt whisky – no more, no less
Blended Scotch Whisky - A blended whisky that is a mix of Scotch malt and grain whiskies
Single-Malt Whisky - The sole product of a single distillery
Pure Malt Whisky - A mix of malt whiskies
Whisky By The Numbers
Scotch Whisky has over 30 percent of the UK market share of the spirit drinks sector, and is sold in over 180 countries worldwide. Exports of Scotch were worth just over £3bn in 2008 and
Scotch Whisky’s export performance (and that of the UK spirit drinks sector as a whole) is why the UK is the base for the world’s largest spirits producer - Diageo (owner of Johnnie Walker
Red Label whisky, and Bell’s whisky) and why Pernod Ricard of France (owner of Ballantine’s whisky and Chivas Regal whisky) also has a strong UK presence.
Broadly speaking, producers in the industry fall into two main groups namely:
Distillers of Scotch Whisky, the majority of whom are also brand owners engaged in the wholesale trade and,
Non-distillers engaged in the wholesale trade, producing brands from Scotch Whisky
distilled by companies in group. Whilst there are in the region of 90 producers in these two groups, the industry is highly
concentrated, with the top 6 companies accounting for 87 percent of distilling capacity and worldwide case sales.
Diageo is the industry leader, with a world market share of approximately 34 percent and 29
distilleries. Pernod Ricard is the second largest with a world market share of approximately 23 percent and 15 distilleries. According to research for the Scotch Whisky Association (SWA),
over 7,000 people are directly employed in the industry and over £90 million worth of Scottish-grown cereals are used.
Scotch whisky is one of the UK’s most important export industries. In 2007, it was exported to 239 markets worldwide, these include countries, territories and dependencies. It is Scotland’s
second largest manufacturing export industry after office machinery2 (excluding oil and gas), and accounts for around 20 percent of Scotland’s manufactured exports.
In accordance with National Accounting principles, total Scottish exports do not include any exports of oil and gas extracted from the UK continental shelf. This is consistent with the
approach taken in all Scottish economic statistics in that, following European System of Accounts (ESA 95) conventions, the National Accounts determine that these cannot be
allocated to any one region of the UK.
According to the Scotch Whisky Association, around 90 percent of all Scotch Whisky produced is exported. In 2008 exports of Scotch Whisky were worth a record of just over £3.1 billion; and accounted for 73 percent of the total value of UK exports of alcoholic drinks. The
value of Scotch Whisky exports increased by 8 percent in 2008; however, export volume (in litres of pure alcohol) declined by 5 percent.
The USA was the largest export market by value (£371 million in 2008) and accounted for 12
percent of exports. It was followed by France with sales of £359 million; accounting for almost 12 percent of exports. Sales to EU countries (£1.2 billion in 2008) accounted for 40 percent of
Scotch whisky sold overseas. In Scotch Whisky’s main export markets, sales to France grew by 22 percent in value in 2008, exports to Germany grew by 14 percent, while exports to South Africa grew in value by 12 percent.
By contrast, consumption of whisky in the UK has exhibited long-term decline, in favour of
wine and white spirits. In 2008, ‘Home-produced whisky’ released for UK consumption was 289 thousand hectolitres; almost the same amount to what was released in 1998. In 2008,
‘Home produced whisky’ represented 25 percent of the volume of spirits released for UK consumption, down from 39 percent in 1996-7.
Whisky production achieved a new peak of 5.06 million hectolitres in 2007. In 2008 its production increased to 5.88 million hectolitres. Whisky production accounts for 85percent of
spirit production in the UK8. According to market research company, Mintel, retail sales of whisky in the UK were estimated to be worth just under £3.8 billion in 2008-9. Of this total,
blended whisky accounted for 58 percent of sales, malt whisky for 18 percent, deluxe whisky for 4percent, and imports for 20 percent.
The industry accounts for around 4 percent of all Scottish manufacturing jobs and the industry spends £1 billion a year buying goods and services from local suppliers.
Scottish Enterprise and the Scotch Whisky Association claim that one million tourists each
year visit around 40 distilleries in Scotland which are open to the public.
The companies which are the leading producers of Scotch Whisky are Diageo (the world’s largest spirits producer), Pernod Ricard (the world’s second largest spirits producer, which operates in Scotland through its Chivas Brothers subsidiary), William Grant & Sons, and The
Edrington Group.
The leading brand of blended whisky sold in the UK in 2007 was Bell’s, produced by Diageo Plc, with 11.6 percent, by volume, of the UK market. Diageo operates 27 malt distilleries and
two grain distilleries across Scotland. In second place was The Famous Grouse, produced by The Edrington Group, with 11.5
percent of the market.
The Jack Daniel’s brand, owned by Brown-Forman of the US, was in third place with 7.3 percent, followed by the Teacher’s brand, owned by Pernod Ricard of France in fourth place
with 4.9 percent. In February 2007, Diageo announced that was to invest £100m in building Scotland’s first
major malt distillery in more than 20 years (creating an estimated 200 jobs during the
investment process over the next few years) as it expands its whisky operations following a huge surge in demand from emerging markets such as Russia, China, India, Mexico, and
Brazil. Subject to planning consent, Diageo will build a malt whisky distillery in Roseisle, near the Moray Firth, where it already has a large maltings facility. It hopes to start production in
2009, with the first whisky becoming available in 2012-13.
Brian Higgs, Diageo’s malt distilling director has stated that the proposed Roseisle complex is expected to be Scotland's most environmentally advanced malt distillery.
The Scotch Whisky Association further states that distilleries represent a quarter of all Scotland’s five-star tourist attractions, with sales at Scotch Whisky tourist attractions worth
over £17 million a year to the Scottish economy
Diageo’s announcement was followed by Bacardi revealing in July 2007 that it would invest more than £120m in Scotland to increase production of its Dewar's Scotch Whisky brand.
The majority of Scotland’s 96 Scotch whisky distilleries currently produce around 1.8 million litres of spirit annually, with the smallest distillery, Edradour, producing around 90,000 litres of
malt whisky each year.
Cameronbridge (owned by Diageo) is the largest grain whisky distillery in the UK and is capable of producing around 70 million litres of grain whisky annually, while Tomatin
(Japanese owned), is the largest malt whisky distillery, and can produce up to 12 million litres of malt whisky annually.
In November 2007, it was reported that the high demand for Scotch among India's increasingly affluent middle class, and the Indian government's withdrawal of additional
customs duty on imported wines and spirits in July 2007, had led to a 45 percent increase in the export of Scotch whisky to India in 2007.
Down To Business - Making Malt
The making of any fine malt whisky requires certain key requirements to be satisfied,
depending on who you listen to. But none of the million or so experts could disagree that
good, clean and preferably mountain melt-water is essential to the process, borne out by the
fact that so many highland distilleries today are built on sites favoured once upon a time by
illicit distillers for the waters they could access, most of which are characteristically among
the high grounds and less significantly perhaps, in the middle of nowhere.
To name but a few who thus qualify: Lagavulin, Laphroaig and Ardberg on Islay, Highland
Park in Orkney, Glenmorangie and Teaninich in Rosshire, Royal Lochnagar on Deeside and
on Speyside - Mortlach, Glenlivit, Cardow, Balmenach, Aberlour and Toamtin, as well as
Tullibardine in Perthshire – all noted for their waters and wonderful malts.
If not from the mountains themselves, many distilleries depend on springs, loch and rivers and
their perfect waters, and while not necessarily significant, most distilleries in Scotland have
the good fortune of access to soft waters rather than hard waters.
Fortunate because hard waters tend to fur up pipes and scale the stills with calcium deposits.
However otherwise exalted malts such as Highland Park and Glenmorangie are the products
of distilleries blessed with hard water. Indeed as distillation itself is a purification process
removing all characterist ics from the water, it’s even possible that mineral deposits from the
hard water contribute to the flavor of the malt, a sentiment Highland Park and
Glenmorangie enthusiasts would be happy to endorse.
The quality of barley in the process of making great whisky is also critical and of the nine
malting barley varieties available of the 300,000 varieties available, only the top three grades
are acceptable to the distillers based on the yield of any given variety. Or the amount of
alcohol that can be generated from each tonne of barley, based on the barley’s capacity
to germinate and on its starch content. A good barley is also easy to process as part of the
mash.
As much as 70-80 percent of the barley required by the top 150 distilleries today is grown in
Scotland, with the Golden Promise variety prominent among a number of varieties which
can produce as much as 405 litres of alcohol per tonne. Other varieties introduced t o
Scottish soils include Opticis, Decanter and Chariot who have helped redress the English
domination of supply.
MALTINGS
“In the malting process, skilled judgment is required because the goodness of the malt
determined not only the quantity of alcohol produced from its fermentation but the quality
of the ultimate distillate itself.”
To make alcohol the starch from barley must converted to sugar and fermented with yeast.
Malting does not effect the conversion into sugar but prepares the starch for conversion by
breaking down the tough cell walls and proteins which bind the starch cells , and by
activating enzymes in the grains which will do the job of conversion when hot water is added
to the ground malt in the mash tun.
The idea is to trick the corns into believing Spring is here and it is time to germinate. In nature
the cell walls break down when the plant begins to grow and the distillery maltster tricks the
corns by steeping the grains in water, resting them so they begin to sprout and them arresting
the germination by drying them when they become green malt after the cell walls have
gone but before the new plant has consumed any of the starch.
Traditionally this was always carried out in floor malting and every distillery made its own malt.
In the process of floor malt ing, the damp grain is spread out on a floor to the depth of one or
two feet and as germination generates heat, the grain has to be turned with wooden shovels
and rakes to keep the temperature even and to prevent root matting.
After maybe nine or ten days the cell walls will have been broken down and the green malt
is ready for the kiln.
In the Highlands and Islands malt kilns were fired using the natural fuel peat and the fragrant
peat smoke was an important component in flavouring whisky.
The mechanisation of this process featured as early as the 1880’s as engineers tried to devise
ways of handling the grain without all the manual work and at the same time improve
temperature control, and thus producing better germination rates and better malt.
A number of new mechanized systems eventually appeared improving the process through
aeration including the Galland pneumatic drum and the Saladin Box – a concrete trough
fitted with revolving rakes to better aerate the malt.
By the 1960’s there such was the demand for Scotch that the distilleries were under pressure
to satisfy demand and localized malting was stooped and malt was brought in instead from
dedicated, centralized, malting.
Huge drum malting plants were built by the likes of Scottish Malt Distillers and others,
strategically placed around Scotland so that the big distilleries could buy in quality malt. The
introduction of centralised pneumatic malting provided a reliable source and improved
upon old foor malting, but many smaller distilleries kept their floor malting convinced that
they allow for better control of peating and better results in flavor.
The exalted Highland Park distillery in Orkney closed its floor malting for a season and bought
in all its malt requirement, peated to specification with Orkadian peat. But the new method
did not produce the character of spirit the distillery expected and resumed its own malting
process forthwith.
PEAT
Less well known is the use of peat in the process of single malt making in number of distilleries,
the peat burned in the kiln while the malt is dried. Peat is compressed decayed vegetation
which has decomposed over thousands of years and has become partially carbonized on
its way to becoming coal one day. Cut in blocks from peat bogs, peat has been used by
itinerant folk and native UK races as far back as Celtic times. Peat is made of decomposed
mosses, heathers, sedges and rushes, the product of damp and cold and wet climates the
fire to burn right is critical
Peats cut from close to the surface where they are crumbly and with a certain rich flavouring
potential. Indeed the smoke produced by peat is aromatic and phenols in the smoke cling
to the grain and imparts a whole range of potential flavours in the process. Phenols only
attach themselves to grain during the earlier stages of kiln when the malt is still moist, so
building the fire to burn right is critical.
If the fire is too hot, the phenols will be burned up instead. The age and composition of the
peat is also very important as is a favourable wind. The advantages the phenols can provide
is also driven by the length of time the malt is exposed to peat smoke and the effects are
calculated after a fourteen to twenty hour burn, measured in degrees of peating or to be
technically correct in parts per million. Champions of the single malt peating are the
distilleries on the island of Islay and three of their malts now rank in the top ten best selling
malts in the world - Laphroiag, Lagavulin and Bowmore leading the charge. Ardberg distillery
ranks as Scotland’s smallest distilleries by case output but enjoys fanatical support of what it
does get out the door as does the Cao Ila distillery.
WOOD
Perhaps the most significant part of the process in determining the final flavour of your dram
is the the choice of cask in which it matures. The cask and its qualities cannot transform bad
whisky into good, but it is well proven that the right casks can make a good whisky great.
They say in the whisky trade that ‘the wood makes the whisky’ and just as surely, a bad cask
or exhausted cask can also ruin a good whisky. These days only oak – mostly American White
Oak - can be used, wherein the whisky must rest for three years..or five or ten or twenty.
One of the critical features of maturation in a cask of oak is the additive element whereby
the oak, made from cellulose which contributes nothing to the flavouring process, gives up
certain characteristics in its composition.
Oak also contains hemicelluloses which caramelises when heated adding sweetness and
colour. Oak also contains lignin. A long-chain polymer which degrades when heated to
produce vanilla and coconut flavours, and tannins which produce astringency, fragrance
delicacy and colour.
Oak casks are so active that they cannot be used brand-new and Scotch is never filled into
fresh wood. Thus all casks used to mature Scotch whisky - both malt and grain – are second-
hand and have been used previously to mature Bourbon or other spirits, sherry or other wines.
Naturally after the first time they have been filled there will be residues of the previous
occupant in the walls of the cask and these leach out into the maturing whisky affording
winey notes to the spirit.
A cask is deemed ‘exhausted’ after three or four fills as they have lost their ability to improve
the whisky and are retired.
Reaming of barrels is commonplace allowing the barrels to be used again having reamed or
removed the inner surface of the barrel to remove deposits from previous generations of
finished whiskies.
Legends
Angels “steal” 4 percent of the whisky in a barrel every year. They want to make sure it’s okay
before we drink it. The “Angel’s share” or “Angel’s tax” refers to the 4 percent of whisky that
evaporates every year as it matures in the cask. Once you bottle whisky, the Angel can’t
touch it. It no longer evaporates.
The oldest whisky in the world is almost automatically the most rare whisky because of the
annual 4 percent “Angel’s tax”.
The Scots used to pour some Scotch on the fire to determine how much alcohol was in it. The
colour of the flame shows whether or not the alcohol content is right. If it burns too hot, there
is too much alcohol. This was sold cheaply to the distillery workers.
Before Clark’s Hydrometer was introduced to measure the amount of alcohol present in a
spirit, the original method of “proof” was to mix a measure of the whisky with gunpowder and
ignite it; if it flashed, the spirit content passed muster!
The Twain Shall Meet
All of this talk of how whisky is made begs the question, just what is the difference between
malt whisky and grain whisky?
No less an authority than John LS Grant, son of George S Grant (1923-2002) once chairman of
Glenfarclas Distillery in Speyside for fifty-two years tells us. His ancestor, John Grant, had
purchased the distillery back in 1865 and it has remained in the Grant family ever since.
John LS Grant at the time of this interview was the current chairman and the veteran whisky
producer explained the difference between malt and grain whisky.
“Well, we can go back to the classroom. Scotch whisky, as distilled, falls into two main
categories; malt and grain. Malt whisky then falls into another four categories; Highland
malts, that's malt distilled north of an imaginary line from Montrose to Dumbarton; Lowland
malts which are malts distilled south of that line; Islay malts, which are malts distilled on the
island of Islay; and Campbeltown malts, which are malts distilled in the Mull of Kintyre. All
malts are distilled on roughly the same basis.
“I say roughly, because some distilleries do a triple distillation. Most do a double. But the grain
whiskies are distilled on an entirely different principle altogether by using a continuous still, as
we spoke of earlier, and they're called grain - it's called grain spirit because the raw material
is not, in the main, malted. It's a - they use maize, or barley; they merely want as much starch
as they can get for the - at the lowest price. And then they use a malted barley to get the
conversion to sugar, after their cooking process, and followed with a continuous distillation
which of course is a more cost effective method of distilling than the batch process we use in
the malt distillery.
“The grain whisky is distilled at a much higher strength than the malt whisky, and it doesn't
have all - can I say 'impurities' with inverted commas round it, because all the alcohol you
drink, whether it's brandy, gin, rum, or Scotch, is ethyl alcohol. And the difference between
the Scotch and brandy or gin and anything else, is what would be called 'impurities' by the
chemist, but they're flavourings to us. Some of the flavourings, such as in gin, are added
deliberately, as flavouring. Flavouring in the malt whisky come naturally just by the process.
The grain whisky being distilled at the very high strength, of course, is a purer alcohol, with less
flavouring.
“Malt whisky in the conventional sense is made exclusively from malted barley, almost always
distilled in a copper pot still. Malt is made from grain that has germinated and generally has
a much richer flavour.”
So, single malt means that the whisky is made from malted barley, at only one distillery, and
not blended with anything else. A single malt whisky uses only one strain of malt in
fermentation and the quality of any Scotch is first determined by the properties of the malt
prior to distillation and fermentation.
Single malts are more unique, and while each distillery has its own signature flavour from
strong or harsh, to mellow and subtle, and everywhere in between, every year is different
and can result in noticeably different whiskies from one year to the next. A lot of the higher
end single malts will not only have an age statement - how many years aged in wooden
casks - but also the year it was made.
Among the best single malts are the Macallan, Bowmore, Glenmorangie and Ardberd.
Grain whisky can be just about anything distilled from a blend of malted and un-malted
barley. It can be both of those with malted rye, un-malted rye, wheat and corn.
The term is not used much in the U.S. and is more common in Scotland, England and Ireland,
being used to refer to whiskies other than malt whisky. So, grain whisky is made from other
cereal grains but while it is un-malted it must be said that a small amount of malted grain has
to be added to provide the necessary enzyme for converting the starch.
Grain whisky is invariably distilled in a continuous still, not a pot still like malt whisky, and the
result is essentially a milder, more neutral flavoured whisky. In 1831 Aeneas Coffey invented
the Coffey or Patent Still, which enabled this continuous process of distillation to take place
and leading to the production of grain whisky, a less intense spirit than the malts produced in
the distinctive copper pot stills. The lighter flavored grain whisky, when blended with the more
fiery malts, extended the appeal of Scotch to a considerably wider market.
Grain whisky is combined with malt whisky to make blended Scotch but there are a few
producers who bottle straight grain whiskies in Scotland and Ireland, some of whom have
received favorable reviews.
Happy Blending
Blended whisky is a blend of malt whiskies and grain whiskies. Distilleries that make malt
whisky don't usually do both malt and grain but some do. Blended whiskies are various
combinations of malt and grain, usually from a variety of distilleries.
Blends vary in character and quality, but are made in such a fashion that their flavour is
consistent year after year.
For a tried and trusted blended whisky, Johnny Walker make a variety of blends that range in
quality from the ordinary Johnny Walker Red to the better Black or Gold. Johnny Walker Blue
is their top of the line blend, casked for at least 25 years.
But while the single malt is the undisputed king of whisky preferences with ‘fan clubs’ like the
Scotch Malt Whisky Society even championing their own selections, ‘only ever bottled from a
single cask and selected from a range of 129 malt whisky distilleries from Scotland and
beyond’, their huge enthusiasm quickly demonstrates the passion many have for a real single
malt. Sadly it might be true to suggest that this passion has demoted the humble blended
whiskies of Scotland to a darker corner of the malt drinker’s room, as undoubtedly many malt
whisky devotees look down their noses at blended whisky since it can never be classed as
the real stuff.
But nothing could be further from the truth, said no less an authority than Seagram’s boss
Sam Bronfman who once famously reported: “Distilling is a science and blending an art.”
Malt whisky aficionados happily scoff at blends, but the truth is that as much as 90 percent of
all single malt whisky produced today goes to making up choice blends, and this ever-
increasing demand is what keeps most malt whisky distilleries going today – not the handful
of fans the malts attract by comparison.
Before the days of branding whisky, the mixing of whiskies from one distillery and another had
long been the practice by dealers and publicans but done in a haphazard style to ‘cover’
flavor problems or to add flavor to the often ferociously fiery and bland grain whiskies of the
day. Or alternatively, to reduce the pungency of malt whiskies.
The first ever branded whisky - ‘Usher’s Old Vatted Glenlivit’ saw Usher vatting different casks
and years of Glenlivet in order to smooth out variations between one cask and the next, and
adding older whisky to raise the quality of his brand.
In 1860 a new law allowed the mixing of grain and malt whisky and Usher and the likes of
Charles Mackinlay began to produce blended whiskies.
Soon enough it was discovered that a good blend had a broader appeal than malts and it
was possible with organisation and a good blender to achieve a consistent product batch
after batch, and then be branded.
But before you can brand a whisky, you must have a consistent and repeatable product and
the brand name acts in part as a guarantee that what you are buying is the trusted drink you
have come to enjoy and with this goal in mind, consistency could only come about with the
invention of vatted and blended whisky.
The reason for this is that every cask matures its contents in a slightly different way, each one
slightly different from the next, and even if it has been filled on the same day, the whisky that
each holds will be slightly different after three or five or ten years – and sometimes radically
different.
In order for a single whisky to be the same, batch after batch, many casks must be vatted
together to iron out any differences.
The real whisky experts will tell you that blended whisky is no better and no worse than malts,
but that they are different by the fact that they are designed to be different – a fine drink,
more than the sum of its part, and therein lies the art of blending itself.
Indeed in blends like the classic Johnnie Walker Blue Label which is up to 60 years old the old
malts used are tempered by younger grain whiskies of around 10 and 20 years old to ensure
the blends vitality. JW Blue uses some 15 malts and grains creating an organized and special
blended classic.
By comparison Johnny Walker Black Label includes 40 constituent malts and grains. Te grain
whisky among other things adds sweetening and pulls together the flavours of the individual
malts balancing them and integrating them into the structured whole that is a fine blended
whisky.
Typically the malt component in a traditional blend will amount to 30-40 percent and the
better Scotch blends involve around 40 malts and as many as 55 while some successful
blends have been devised from a smaller selection of malt components.
Mixed grains are added to the mixed malts and with only six grain whisky distillers in Scotland,
the choice is limited when compared to the malts involved with some ninety malt distilleries
still operating. Interestingly, attempts to compose a quality blend based only on single grain
whisky have failed miserably.
In creating a great blended Scotch, it is impossible to follow a set recipe since distillers come
and go, or individual distilleries may withdraw malt stocks for whatever reason. If stocks fail
them or a distillery closes, blenders have their work cut out mixing and matching substitute
malts for example to make up for an important malt component which can no longer be
had.
The blender is king and top of his priorities and talents is the ability to avoid flavour shifts,
composing blends to ensure some kind of consistency in the flavour. If everything is in place
and running well and the blender has the right malts and grains to hand, at the right ages
and in the right casks the blend can be put together to the greatest effect.
Putting together blend involves mixing or marrying all of the components in individual
vattings – a mix of malts and grains of around 30,000litres at a time. When all of the vattings
have been blended together, samples are drawn nosed and tasted and compared with
standard reference samples from the previous year.
Master blenders with their often priceless noses are the true wizards of the whisky business,
responsible not only for coming up with new products but for maintaining the quality and
consistency of the blends under their care – The Johnnie Walkers, The Chivas Regals, The
Glenfiddichs, the Dewars, the William Grants, the Whyte & McKays, the Grants, the
Mackinlays, the list of legendary blends goes on.
A Guide to Tasting Scotch Whisky
You will need: A clean tulip-shaped nosing glass and a jug of bottled still water at room
temperature.
Select a suitable glass for nosing and a tulip shaped glass tends to be best. This type of glass
will trap the aromas in the bulbous bottom of the glass and release them through the small
area at the top of the glass. Whisky is often drunk from a crystal tumbler. This is perfectly
acceptable, and is in fact more practical for drinking, however, the tulip shaped glass is
better for nosing purposes.
Colour hold the glass up to a neutral background and have a good look at the colour.
Colour can give an indication of age and wood finish, however, never trust your eyes. Any
assumptions made on colour must be confirmed on the nose e.g. A dark rich amber
coloured whisky may have been mature in an ex-sherry barrel from Spain or it may be an
older whisky.
Body weight swirl the whisky around the glass, coating the sides thoroughly. Then wait, and
watch the teardrops form and run down the side of the glass. If the legs run quickly, there are
lots of them, and they are quite thin then it is probably a light -bodied whisky and/or a
younger whisky.
If the legs take a long time to start running, then run slowly down the side of the glass, there
are very few of them and they are quite thick in appearance, then it may be a heavy
bodied whisky and/or an older whisky.
*Nose add a splash of bottled still water to your whisky. The water will reduce the alcohol
content, and raise the temperature slightly releasing more of the aromas. Ensure you nose
the whisky more than once. Your first nose will be a rush of alcohol, other characteristics will
follow quickly. Holding your mouth open slightly when nosing should help you take in more of
the whisky's aromas.
Palate have a taste of the whisky. Try to pick out any flavours you can ¿ remember, even
though you are tasting, your nose is still doing a lot of the work. Sometimes you will pick out
flavours on the palate that you were not immediately aware of on the nose, and vice versa.
Think about how the whisky feels in your mouth- is it silky smooth, is it a little syrupy, does it feel
tingly on the tongue?
Finish does the flavour last a long time? Does it disappear quickly? Is it long and warming, or
short, crisp and dry?
* You may wish to nose and taste your whisky without water first, and then add a splash of
water to experience the nose developing.
Whisky Thai
The company group within Thai Beverage Plc has a long experience in production and sale
of all kinds of Brown Spirits, White Spirits, herb and others. There are 18 distilleries in the group
and an import company to cover the demand of local consumers and for export worldwide.
The group also plays a significant role in developing local liquor to match those produced
anywhere in the world.
You may be surprised to learn that the company’s Ruang Kao rum is the second best selling
alcohol on the planet by volume, second only to Korea’s Jinro Soju!
Truthfully speaking you really don’t have much choice when it comes to Thai ‘whisky’. While
the most popular variations - Sang Som and Mekhong - are quite popular brown liquors, they
are not whiskies at all as the primary ingredient of both brands is molasses, which makes them
spiced rum.
On the label of Sang Som it even says “Thai Rum”, yet it is still sold as “Thai Whiskey” in bars
and clubs all over Thailand.
Mekhong
As we know already, whisky is a product of distilling alcohol made from grains and chief among the
Thai pretenders is Mekhong, which used to call itself whisky until further international Customs and Excise
inspection revealed it was a 'Thai spirit' distilled from around 95 percent molasses and five percent rice,
then flavoured and coloured.
Closer to a flavoured rum, Mekhong is Thailand's first domestically produced, branded, golden spirit
launched way back in 1941 when it quickly became the most popular brand in Thailand. The Excise
Department's main aim then was to produce a Thai liquor with a high standard of production and taste
to replace imported products. I t also underwent extensive development in appearance, production
process and taste from 1943 to 1946.
This distilled spirit is blended with a secret recipe of indigenous herbs and spices to produce its
distinctive aroma and taste, distilled, blended and bottled at the Bangyikhan Distillery on the outskirts of
Bangkok. I ts slightly lower strength of 35 percent ABV means that it mixes well especially as a cost
effective ingredient in cocktails.
Today, Mekhong is widely available across South East Asia and is also now available in Europe and the
USA.
Product Type Thai Spirits
Major Ingredient Molasses, broken glutinous rice
Alcohol Content 35 percent by volume
Color Amber gold
Type of Content 375 ml. and 700 ml
Contain in cases 700 ml 12 bottles/case
Distillery Sura Bangyikhan Co., Ltd.
Sangsom Special Rum
Rum is a kind of liquor derived from distilling cane juice, sugar or molasses until the product is with 60-95
degree alcohol content. The content will then be mixed with purified water to produce a satisfactory
level of alcohol content before being transferred to age in charred oak barrels for at least one year.
Before being bottled the liquor may be further mixed to adjust for desired color, aroma, and taste.
Sangsom Special Rum is a rum that has to undergo a special production process, resulting in a fine
liquor that has been distilled and aged in oak barrels for 5 years, after that, it is blended with a special
concentrate of finely selected herbs and spices and the best quality alcohol to give Sangsom that
special taste and aroma.
The liquor won a gold medal in the liquor competition in Madrid, Spain, in 1982 and 1983, and won
another award in the liquor competition in Dusseldorf, Germany in 1983. Since then, it has been known
among its connoisseurs as "Sangsom Gold Medallion".
Product Type Thai Rum
Major Ingredient Molasses
Alcohol Content 40 percent by volume
Color Amber gold
Type of Content 300 ml (Half bottle) and 700 ml (Round)
Contain in cases 300 ml. 12 bottles/case 700 ml. 12 bottles/case
Distillery Sangsom Co., Ltd.
Mangkorn Thong
Mangkorn Thong is a blended liquor among fine quality alcohol from several distilleries, mixed
with concentrate of fine herbs to give a good smooth taste.
Product Type Blended Spirits
Major Ingredient Molasses and rice
Alcohol Content 35 percent by volume
Color Amber gold
Type of Content 375 ml (Half bottle) and 750 ml (Round)
Contain in cases 375 ml. 12 bottles/case
750 ml. 12 bottles/case
Distillery Sangsom Co., Ltd.
Hong Thong
Hong Thong brown spirits is the premium spirits blended by a number of raw materials well
accepted internationally. It is produced by Bangyikhan Distillery which is well accepted
internationally for its brewing process.
Product Type Blended Spirits
Major Ingredient Molasses and rice
Alcohol Content 35 percent by volume
Color Amber gold
Type of Content 350 ml (Half bottle) and 700 ml (Round),
Contain in cases 350 ml. 12 bottles/case 700 ml. 12 bottles/case
Distillery Sura Bangyikhan Co., Ltd.
Blend 285
Blend 285 is an Admix that is a produce derived from Scottish malt whiskey, aged for years,
and then blended by experts from Scotland.
Product Type Admix
Major Ingredient Malt Whiskey aged in oak barrel, and pure alcohol
Alcohol Content 35 percent by volume
Color Amber gold
Type of Content Round bottle 700 ml / Round bottle 1,000 ml
Contain in cases Round bottle 700 ml & Round bottle 1,000 ml 12 bottles/case
Distillery Red Bull Distillery (1988) Co., Ltd
Phraya
Product Type Thai Rum
Major Ingredient Molasses
Alcohol Content 40 percent by volume
Color Amber gold
Type of Content 300 ml (Half bottle) and 750 ml (Round)
Contain in cases 300 ml 12 bottles/case 750 ml 12 bottles/case
Distillery Sangsom Co., Ltd.
Crown 99
Crown 99 is an Admix that is a produce derived from Scottish malt whiskey, aged for years,
and then blended by experts from Scotland. Crown 99 is marketed by Thai Beverage Public
Company Limited. Amex Team has been behind the development of the brand since it was
launched in early 2000. Crown 99 was highly successful in the Thai spirits market, establishing
itself as the admix whisky segment leader for several years.
Product Type Admix
Major Ingredient Malt Whiskey aged in oak barrel, and pure alcohol
Alcohol Content 35 percent by volume
Color Amber gold
Type of Content Half bottle 350 ml. and Round bottle 700 ml.
Contain in cases Half bottle 350 ml. 12 bottles/case
Round bottle 700 ml. 12 bottles/case
Distillery Red Bull Distillery(1988) Co., Ltd.
Drummer
Transcending throughout two centuries of generations of masterblenders, Drummer whisky
provides Scotch whisky lovers with amber-colored distilled spirits filled with sensual fruitiness
aroma. The appealing taste of the whisky offers the real and unique Scotch whisky
experiences. Sweet and fruity with notes of vanilla, toffee and green apples and just a hint of
spice. The high malt content includes the unique Balmenach at its heart, delivering a full-
bodied taste with a slight wisp of smoke and a warm, long-lasting finish
Product Type Scotch Whisky
Major Ingredient Malt
Alcohol Content 40 percent by volume
Color Amber gold
Type of Content Round bottle 700 ml.
Contain in cases Round bottle 700 ml. 12 bottles/case
Distillery Balmenach Distillery, Scotland
Lao Khao
Lao Khao is a very popular drink distilled from rice beer (Sahtoe) and so is a true Thai Whiskey
albeit clear and colourless and with a completely different taste to Scotch. It is sold like most
alcohol in the local corner shop and usually under the table.
You can be pretty sure that the Lao Khao bought there is reasonably safe. Not so with the
home produced product which may have less than desirable effects.
Lao Khao is important though because this is the base liquor from which Yaa Dong is built
upon. White Whiskey becomes Red/Brown Whiskey...water into wine! And a complete set of
taste changes along the way.
It is not unusual today to see Lao Khao sold today with a snake or two or perhaps a scorpion
pickled in the bottle along with a Ginseng root. Marketed with names like 'Cobra Whiskey' It is
more of a product for the tourist market...something to take home.
Lao Hai
One of the more familiar 'brands' is 'Lao Hai' or Thai Rice Whiskey. This is commonly seen for
sale in tourist type shops or at roadside stalls in the north. It is sold in glazed clay jars of various
sizes. These jars are, in turn, sealed with clay. The clay seal is broken to expose a bag of
damp fermented rice. Water is poured in till it reaches the top of the jar and left for an hour
before being sucked out with reed straws. It has quite a kick and like all spirits is an acquired
taste. It is possible to refill the jar three or four times leaving the 'water' just a little longer each
time before drinking it.
Yaa Dong
For many Thais this is the REAL Thai whiskey and was once very popular. Sadly perhaps its
popularity has waned and it can be quite difficult to find. This is a Thai herbal whiskey. Though
many Thai Whiskeys have something added this one is not only a recreational drink but
directed as a cure for specific ailments. The law is very hazy as to whether Yaa Dong is legal
simply because it has mysterious additives, but usually a blind eye is turned to its public sale.
Traditionally it has been a beverage brewed at and distilled and drank at home.
Its base ingredient is Lao Khao to which various products are added. Although produced as
a cure it is also a popular family drink with recipes being handed down through generations.
Commonly held in clear glass jars the clear liquid is infused with a mix of leaves, tree bark and
roots and so changes colour. There is always a mystery surrounding the contents with rumours
of opium and dragons blood (some say Deer Antler, Rhino Horn and the like but I have never
seen this to be true). In turn the various infusions are reputed to have various powers
including aphrodisiac like properties.
It is a cheap drink costing no more than 10 Baht for a small glass called a 'Thuay Talai'. Each
glass is accompanied by a glass of specially produced 'grass' water. Yaa Dong can be
sipped or slung back as a shot but is never mixed with anything and is consumed at room
temperature. The flavour will be determined by the time of day as each jar is topped up
daily with the base liquor. As it infuses with the herbs and as the level drops the flavour
becomes stronger. The drink itself is deceptively strong and usually after five glasses an
unfamiliar drinker is on the slippery slope to being drunk.
Ya Dong and its variations can commonly be found upcountry at palm thatched roadside
stalls where there may be as many as four or more large glass jars, each labeled in Thai.
Ma-ka Tuam Loang - Active Horse Power. Treats chronic cough and beri-beri
Chong Arang Pa-arde - King Cobra Stand up. For muscle tone, health, aphrodisiac
Suat soong chu kam-rang - Formula 2. Appetite improvement, brain power, beri-beri
Kary-sen - Tendon Release. Treating muscle wasting diseases
Doar Mai Ra Roum – Stand up never die. Another aphrodisiac
Rhuang Khao - Known as white whiskey but, like its close cousin Sangsom, a clear rum.
Thai Whisky Arrivals
The skepticism among ‘real’whisky drinkers here extends to other so-called whiskies available
in Thailand bearing Scottish credentials, but the truth is that there is no reason why a new
Scotch blended for the Thai market should be classed along with the rums.
George S Grant (1923-2002) was chairman of Glenfarclas Distillery in Speyside for fifty-two
years and his successor, John LS Grant is the current chairman.
In a recent interview he had this to say about foreign-made whisky and how alike are the
foreign made imitations to Scotch whisky - and whether they bear any resemblance at all to
the real thing.
“Oh yes. Oh yes. But depending how much Scotch malt they put into it. If they load it up
with Scotch malt, of course, there's a very striking resemblance to Scotch. You have to
remember that a lot of Scotch goes out of Scotland, especially into the continental market,
where there's a very low percentage of malt whisky in the blend and a large percentage of
grain whisky.
“So, if you take an admixture, with a large percentage of malt, Scotch malt, in it, and a low
percentage of a neutral spirit made in the country that admix it, it compares very favourably
to some of these Scotches. But it's still not the genuine article, of course. So offshore you're
producing an admixture which can undersell the genuine Scotch on pure merit.”
So there can be some potentially interesting candidates among the actual blended whiskies
available in Thailand and elsewhere – One Hundred Pipers, Black Cat and many more.
Visiting Your Favourite Whisky
The export of whisky provides a major source of revenue for the Scottish economy, overseas
sales amounting to a staggering 2.5 billion per year. The top export market is the United
States, whose citizens spend 400 million on Scotch whisky annually, with France, Spain, South
Korea and Venezuela making up the rest of the top five. In total, the whisky industry is worth 3
billion per year to the Scottish economy, and provides almost 41,000 jobs in Scotland.
The USA is also the number one source of overseas visitors to Scotland. Not counting visitors
from the other nations of the United Kingdom, the USA accounts for 24 percent of tourist visits
to Scotland. Scotland has a lot to offer overseas guests: our many historic sites; the stunning
natural beauty of our countryside; our status as the home of the game of golf; and with the
increasing interest in genealogy many visitors, particularly from the New World, are coming to
discover their own Scottish heritage. But more and more visitors are coming to Scotland to
visit the home of whisky.
Many distilleries offer tours to visitors to show the curious how their favourite drink is made first-
hand, and there are now specialist trips taking sightseers around the major centres of whisky
production. Scotland is divided into five whisky-producing regions, each with its own style
and its share of devotees. Speyside, on the banks of the River Spey in Moray, was once
considered part of the Highland region, but due to the distinctive character of its whiskies,
and its profusion of distilleries (almost half of all Scotland's distilleries), it is now recognised as a
separate region. With its concentration of whisky heritage, and as home to such major
brands as Glenfiddich, The Glenlivet and The Macallan, Speyside is a major centre of whisky
tourism in Scotland.
The Isle of Islay is also afforded status as a region unto itself: in its mere 240 square miles, it is
home to eight well-known distilleries (a ninth, Kilchoman, began production in 2005, the first
new distillery on the island in over a century). Campbeltown, the Isle of Arran and the Mull of
Kintyre, is home to three malt whisky distilleries, and the Highland region (sometimes
subdivided into Highland malts and Island malts) produces many of the more well-known
malt whiskies such as Glenmorangie and Dalwhinnie. Only three malt whisky distilleries remain
in the Lowland region, where the whisky is traditionally produced by a triple-, rather than
double-distillation method.
Scotland's Malt Whisky Trail - The only malt whisky trail in the world.
The Scottish Malt Whisky Trail takes visitors on a tour of some of the most important centres of
whisky production, and the traditional crafts associated with the industry. Centred on the
Speyside region, whisky lovers can visit working and historic distilleries, see the art of the
cooper (barrel-maker), and of course get a chance to enjoy some of the finished product
with old and new friends in the convivial atmosphere of a Highland pub.
Whisky distilleries were founded in an environment rich in the highest quality ingredients: pure,
clear spring water and abundant supplies of fragrant golden barley. On the whisky trail of
Speyside, you'll find more than half of Scotland's malt whisky distilleries, each with its own
warm welcome and an invitation to see, smell, taste and absorb the magic of whisky.
Each whisky distillery on the distillery tour follows its own traditions, lore and recipes for
everything from malting the barley to the height and size of its stills. The unique characteristics
of each Speyside whisky distillery result in delightful, hand-crafted whisky from each one. All
offer visitors a sample of the finished product and some include an informative nosing and
tasting while others give an insight into the complex art of blending whisky and malt.
Follow the world-famous Malt Whisky Trail through Speyside to seven working distilleries,
including a fascinating cooperage and a historic distillery. From Benromach to Dallas Dhu, a
perfect time capsule of whisky-making; from Glen Moray to Strathisla, home and heart of
Chivas Regal; from the Glen Grant distillery to the Speyside Cooperage where real coopers
work with incredible speed and skill; from Glenfiddich to The Glenlivet and the Cardhu
distillery, Scotland's whisky trail signposts lead you through the picturesque lush countryside of
Speyside, the world's favourite malt whisky region.
Come for a weekend in May, or in September for the whisky festivals, when distilleries, whisky
shops, bars, pubs and whole villages welcome visitors with drams, special nosings, ceilidhs
and other parties. Come at any time to enjoy famous names and share well-kept secrets with
knowledgeable locals in well-stocked bars and friendly pubs.
Buoyed by the large and growing international market for Scotch whisky, the industry is
adapting its traditional values for the modern world. New markets are opening up, and new
generations of drinkers are learning to love the malt. In Germany, traditionally a nation of
beer and wine drinkers, Scotch whisky is experiencing a surge of popularity among the
young.
Scotch is now the fashionable drink to be seen with in Germany's restaurants and bars,
having overtaken French cognac as the most popular premium spirit. A whole industry has
sprung up importing whisky by the cask from Scotland and blending and bottling it in
Germany to suit the local palate. Lars "Jack" Wiebers, from the former East Germany, began
importing whisky after developing a taste for it on holiday in Greece.
"The standard whiskies from the distilleries are usually made by mixing whiskies from various
casks to get consistency," Wiebers said. "With an independent bottling, you often get the
pure taste of a whisky from one single barrel," he told German website Deutsche Welle.
With a bright future of growing sales abroad, and increasing interest from visitors in whisky
production at home, Scotland's whisky industry has a bright future to look forward to.
The Perfect Partnership
Ask any smoker who enjoys a good smoke – there is nothing
better than a good cigar, that tightly rolled bundle of fine
matured tobacco held firm between the fingers and held to the
nose to confirm the amazing aroma peculiar to the world’s best
tobaccos.
The best cigars are often hand-made and are matured for
flavour. They come in a wide variety of styles, shapes and sizes
and have been smoked since the 10th Century. Europeans and
the rest of the world did not benefit from the use of cigars until 1492 when
Christopher Columbus was on an expedition in the Caribbean where he observed
the natives (the indigenous people of San Salvador, Bahamas) smoking an unknown
substance. This substance was either smoked through a tube, called a Tobago, or
rolled up in a large leaf.
Columbus and his crew took some of this tobacco back to Spain, where techniques
for rolling cigars and making pipes were rapidly perfected. This custom of smoking
tobacco in cigars and pipes swiftly swept Europe and, within a short space of time,
the rest of the World embraced it.
Today, the best cigars come from around the world, including Cuban, Dominican
and Niaraguan producers in a wide range of cigar types, from Coronas to
Presedentes and there is a perfect cigar for any situation, be it a Corona with a glass
of champagne, or Robusto for a regular smoke.
There are many different types of cigar, each unique in flavour and strength, so it is
essential that you select the perfect cigar to suit your taste. Choosing a cigar is akin
to choosing a good wine and it does require a certain amount of knowledge.
Hand Rolling A Cigar
Most cigars are made up of three different elements:
Wrapper - The Wrapper is the outermost part of a cigar which is usually made from
the larger, lower leaves of the plant. The wrapper is wound around the cigar and
binds the whole cigar together. See the Different Types of Wrapper.
Filler - The filler is the contents of the cigar. The filler is made up of small, wrappep,
bunches of leaves.
Binder - The Binders are leaves that are used to wrap the fillers together in the cigar.
Binders are often made from the same leaves as wrappers only they have holes or
are discoloured.
Cigars are usually categorized by size and shape.
Size
The size of the cigar is represented by two dimensions, the ring gauge and the
length.
Ring gauge - This is the diameter of the cigar which is measure in 64ths of and inch.
Length - The Length of the cigar in Inches
For Example: a Dalia cigar has a length of 6.75" and has a ring gauge of 43
Shape
The shape of a cigar can be very varied but the shape of a cigar does not dictate
the strength, taste or quality of a cigar. Parejo is the most common shape of cigar
followed by the Pyramid, Torpedo, Perfecto and Presidente
Irregular shaped cigars are referred to as Figurados. Pyramid, Torpedo, Perfecto and
Presidente are all classed as Figurados. These are usually of higher quality and value
as they are much more difficult to make. Other Figurados include:
Culebras - Which consist of three long straight cigars that are braided together.
Tuscanian - This is an Italian cigar that is typically long and thin with a thicker middle.
Different Smokes for Different Folks
Cigars are somewhat of a luxury to smoke, and are a pleasure to do so. For many
people, cigars are an indulgence in which people enjoy whilst relaxing or
celebrating, but can be smoked for no other reason than pleasure. For a smoker to
enjoy a cigar to the highest degree, they must understand and know about the
different varieties and availabilities of cigars that are available for purchase. There
are a great number of cigars to choose from, from local produce to premium
branded cigars. Here are a few of the best cigars on the market:
Cuban Cigars: These are considered to be the best brands in the world, and are
regarded as the most popular. These cigars are made up of carefully selected
tobacco leaves and are hand-made, making these cigars are often more expensive
than others. Cuban cigars have an incomparable taste, meaning that Cuban cigars
are strictly to be made in corporation with the government.
Cohiba Cigars: Cohiba cigars became famous in 1969 as the tobacco used in the
cigar is grown at full length in certain selected plantations in the province of Penar
Del Rio in Cuba. It has a different taste to other cigars and is often a favorite
amongst regular smokers.
Macanudo Cigars: Introduced by the General Cigar Company is 1971, Macanudo
cigars have quickly become a popular premium cigar. The reason that Macanudo
cigars are special, is because they are made from a fine Connecticut shade
wrapper that features a rare blend of Dominican tobacco, and a special select
binder grown in St. Andres Tuxtla Valley of Mexico.
Partagas Cigars: Partagas cigars were originally founded by Don Jaime Partagas.
The cigars are known for their rich aroma and there usage of high quality wrappers
from Cameroon. They are sometime favored by regular smokers.
Padron Cigars: Founded in 1964 by Jose O Padron, Pagron cigars use only sun grown
Habano, aged for a minimum of two and a half years. They are available in either
natural or Madura wrappers.
Ashton Cigars: A very famous brand, Ashton Cigars are made of Dominican
tobacco that is ages for 3 to 4 years. The rich flavors come from the golden
Connecticut shade wrapper.
Montecristo Cigars: This famous Havana brand was started in the late 1930’s and got
popularity through a novel written by Alexandre Dumas in 1844. The cigar is known
for its sweet taste and faultless manufacturing.
Arturo Fuente Cigars: Arturo Fuente cigars were created by Arturo Fuente during
1912. These cigars are considered to be one of the most flavorsome cigars in the
world due to the use of the best quality vintage tobacco.
Cigar Regions
Cigars are mainly, but not exclusively, manufactured in South and Central America.
Alot of the worlds leading brands and cigar types hale from Cuba, Mexico and
other Southern and Central American States.
Each country's cigar production has its own taste and character. Cigars are made
all over the world, with tobacco grown in different soils, cured by different processes,
and rolled with different techniques.
Dominican Republic Cigars
Indonesian Cigars
Connecticut Valley Cigars
Mexican Cigars
Honduras Cigars
Brazilian Cigars
Cuban Cigars
Nicaraguan Cigars
Types of Cigar
Corona
Panatela
Lonsdale
Churchill
Robusto
Toro
Presidente
Torpedo
Diadema
Cigar Glossary of Terms
Binder - The Binders are leaves that are used to wrap the fillers together in the cigar.
Binders are often made from the same leaves as wrappers only they have holes or
are discoloured.
Cap - The cap is the closed, usually rounded, end of the cigar. It is closed to keep
the contents fresh and at a high quality, the cap must be cut to allow the smoker to
smoke the cigar.
Cigarillo - Small, thin cigars which have tobacco leaf wrappers. Cigarillos are
sometimes filtered.
Culebras - This cigar is formed by taking three long, straight, cigars and braiding
them together.
Draw - The act of pulling smoke through the cigar using your mouth.
Figurados - The term used for irregularly shaped cigars.
Filler - The filler is the contents of the cigar. The filler is made up of small, wrappe d
bunches of leaves.
Length - The Length of the cigar, usually in inches.
Parejo - This is the classic straight cigar shape.
Perfecto - This cigar is closed at both ends with a wider body that bulges in the
middle.
Presidente - This cigar is the same shape as the Parejo only with a pinched end.
Pyramid - This cigar shape is thick at one end and tapers to a cone at the other.
Ring Gauge - This is the diameter of the cigar which is measure in 64ths of and inch.
Shade-Grown - Shade-Grown refers to the growing of the tobacco plants under a
shelter of muslin nets which protect the plant from direct sunlight.
Small (Little) Cigars - These cigars are generally more popular in tobacco outlets due
to their similarity to Cigarettes and low taxation. They generally have filters and are
smoked more regularly than other cigar types.
Torpedo - This shape is much the same as the Parejo only with a coned end.
Tuscanina - This is an Italian cigar that is typically long and thin with a thicker middle.
Wrapper - The Wrapper is the outermost part of a cigar which is usually made from
the larger, lower leaves of the plant. The wrapper is round around the cigar and
binds the whole cigar together. Wrappers are generally classified in a variety of
different colors.