a very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–chamonix valley and mont blanc...

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A very, very brief introduction to summer mountaineering skills Dr Andrew French

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Page 1: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

A very, very brief introduction to summer mountaineering skills

Dr Andrew French

Page 2: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Contents

• Kit

• Emergencies

• Ropework

• Mountain weather

• Route planning

• Where to go?

• Further information

Page 3: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Kit you are wearing

Mountaineering boots

Gaiters

Map and compass Food

Mobile phone and emergency contacts

Scarf / buff Sunglasses

Sunscreen Whistle Base layer

Trekking trousers

Alcohol gel

Camera etc

Watch, altimeter

Page 4: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Kit in your rucksack

First aid kit

1 litre bottle of water

Waterproof jacket

Waterproof trousers

Rope

Emergency shelter Gloves

Hat

Sit mat

Boot laces duct tape, zip ties...

Tent Sleeping bag

Sleeping mat

Head torch

Stove and fuel

Spare underwear

Midlayer /fleece

Mp3 player cards entertainment!

Everything in waterproof bags!

Walking poles

Page 5: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Prepare for Emergencies

Keep warm Bring the right clothes Group shelter

Energy and hydration Regular rations! Keep morale high Don’t carry too much

Plan your route Tell others where you are going! Make a laminated map Escape routes Bring navigation kit

First aid Attend a course Recovery position Heart massage to ‘Stayin alive’ Stop blood leaks via pressure and elevation Emergency phone numbers

Check local weather the day before MWIS Met Office

Page 6: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Ropework

• A walking rope and how to store it

• Overhand knot and loops

• Confidence roping

Thumbs up Z!

• Simple belay using a fixed anchor

• South African descent

• Improvised harness demo

Thompson knot

Page 7: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

UK mountain weather

Page 8: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 9: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 10: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Cloud types

Page 11: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 12: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 13: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 14: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 15: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 16: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 17: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,
Page 18: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Route planning

Page 19: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Route planning

Page 20: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

200m grid

Taken from a 1: 50,000 OS map. 1km grid

Page 21: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

AF

Mark where you are on a map as you go along. Counting paces enables you to estimate distances within a few tens of metres

Page 22: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Route planning

Total time: 7:30

Ascent (and descent): 1154m

Total distance: 10.8km

I used a somewhat conservative version of Naismith’s Formula for the time calculation: • 3km per hour • 1 min per 10m ascent • 1 min per 10m descent

Page 23: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Where to go?

• England – New Forest

– South Downs

– Coastal paths

– Long distance ‘### way’

– Peak District

– Cheviot Hills

– Dartmoor

– Lake District

Page 24: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Where to go? • Wales

– Coastal path

– Brecon Beacons

– Black Mountains

– Snowdonia

Page 25: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Where to go?

• Scotland

– Loch Lomond, Arrochar Alps

– Glen Coe

– Nevis Range, Ring of Steall

– Torridon, Skye ......

Page 26: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Aonach Mor

Carn Mor Dearg (CMD) arête,

Ben Nevis

Page 27: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Where to go?

• The Alps – Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France)

– Ecrins, France

– Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland)

– Italian Alps, Grand Paradiso

– Dolomites (Italy)

– Bernese Oberland, Eiger (Switzerland)

– Haute Route

– Alpinism, ski touring!

Page 28: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Where to go?

• Greater Ranges

– Morocco, Toubkal

– Pyrenees, Sierra Nevada (Spain)

– Kilimanjaro, Meru, Mt Kenya (Africa)

– Central America volcanoes (Ecuador, Bolivia ... )

– Andes, Inca trail, Patagonia

– Himalayas

– Polar regions ....

Page 29: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Happy adventures! Everest (8848m) Lhotse (8383m) Makalu (8463m) Kangchenjunga (8586m) Cho Oyu (8201m)

Page 30: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Mera peak 6476m

Page 31: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Mera summit photos by Dave Kenyon

My first ice climb!

Page 32: A very, very brief introduction to summer … mountaineering...–Chamonix valley and Mont Blanc (France) –Ecrins, France –Matterhorn, Zermatt region (Switzerland) –Italian Alps,

Further information and courses