a week in west africa
TRANSCRIPT
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A week in west africa
Monday (05:00 Am)Im in Senegal, and Im going to Dakar, Senegals capital. Theres a supermarket.
Im inside and Im buying some fruits. Omar, the seller says to me: Be careful with the
bandits. He gives me my fruits and I go out.
08:10 Am
Im still in Dakar. In this country people speak French and others languages. I walk
on the streets while I see a woman. Shes washing her familys clothes. I approach her.
Her name is Helen. I say to her: Where is your family? She says to me: My husband is
working and my children are inside the house. She goes to her house and brings her 5
children. I say to them: Do you study? They say to me: No we dont study. We help to
our parents with the housework and in our free time we play soccer. I say to them: Doyou like some soccer team? They say to me: We like F.C Barcelona team, but we want
to study.
09:57 Am
Al, Helens husband comes back here after work. I say to him: Whats your
profession? He says to me: I work as a fisherman in the Senegal River. I say to him: Do
you ever go to Gambia? He says to me: Yes, Why?. I say to him: Because I know about
the movements of people in the frontiers between two or more countries. He says to me:
Yes, I sometimes buy some food there. I always go to Banjul, the capital of Gambia.
Are you thinking about send your children to the school? His answer: Maybe but, I
work far away from here and Helen cant be alone here. The only problem is the
struggle in the south. The insurgence usually comes here and threatens us. What about
your children? He says to me: The insurgence wants to carry them. About the school,
we dont have enough money for pay it.
02:00 Pm
Im having my lunch. Helen tries to offer me some local food but I dont like it. In
fact I have an apple and Im going to eat it now. I should leave this family and continue
my trip alone. But Al wants to help me. Helen says to him: You can help him but you
should be here early. Meanwhile, I take some photographies and then we go to thecenter of this city. I say to Al: Whats the matter in the south?. He says to me: In
Casamance, people want to be an independent republic. I say to him: Whos the leader
there? He says to me: I dont know but there are many Arabians. I say to him: Oh,
theyre Islamic. He says to me: Yes, but they should stop the war and the government
should give them the independence. What are you doing here? I say to him: Im a
reporter and I work for the national geographic magazine. I say to him: Whats the
official money here? He says to me: Here, the money is Franco of the CFA. Our country
is an old French territory.
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05:30 Pm
I find some militaries and I need their help for go to the frontier with Gambia. The
leaders name is Conat. They work in the frontier for keep the public order. I say to
him: What do you do there? He says to me: Im in the frontier because I should tend
people. There are many gangs. The blame is of the both governments. I say to him:
What do they do bad? He says to me: They dont give work for the population. Here,
there isnt growth, and were very angry. Sometimes I think in a military led coup but, I
like my work.
07:15 Pm
Im near to the frontier with Gambia. Im very hungry and very nervous. But, I think inSenegambia, the old country before 1989. I see some people. Theyre walking to
Gambia. I say: Why do they go to Gambia? Conat says to me: Theyre refugees for the
civil war here. We stop near the Gambias flag. While Conat drinks some water, I
show my passport in the toll. The custody says to me: Youre going to leave this
country tomorrow morning. Anyway, Im very tired and I want to eat.
Tuesday (07:00 Am)
Im watching my folder. It has the photographies and some words. I go to the frontier
with Conat. Before, I show my passport again in the toll. I see a car with people and I
approach them. They say to me: What do you want? I say to them: I want to go to
Banjul. Can you drive me there? They say to me: Yes, we can. The car is very battered.
08:59 Am
Im near Banjul. Gambia is unique among the African countries. Unique for the
president, Yahya Jammeh, Who says he can cure the AIDS. I say to them: Its true?
They say to me: No, its false, Jammeh cant cure the AIDS, and hes crazy. He wants
to be king of this country but, we dont want it. Its enough since 1994.
11:30 Am
Were arriving to Banjul. Gambia is very small but, the landscape is cute. A policestops our car and he checks us. Then, I go inside a clothes store and try to take some
photographies but, Ibrahim, the seller doesnt want. I say to him: What should I do? He
says to me: Be quiet. I go out with Conat and his militaries and I say to him: Why do
you think in a military led coup? He says to me: Because, Yahya Jammeh is a dictator
and he shouldnt continue in the government. In this country there arent human rights.
I say to him: When are the presidential elections here? He says to me: The government
doesnt want to say. I try to talk with some people but it isnt easy. We arrive to the
hospital.
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12:15 m
Im still in Gambia. Im in front of the hospital and I want to go inside. The custodieslet me go. A woman is having a baby. Shes crying but shes very happy. Her name is
Rita and shes 38 years. She says: Its my 4th children. Awesome! The doctor invites
me to go there. His name is James. I say to him: How do you work here? He says to me:
Very bad. I say to him: How much money do you get? He says to me: I get 450 Dalasis.
I say to him: Im going to take some photos. Can I? He says to me: Yes, sure and bring
it around the world. He says to me: Will you be long here? I say to him: Im sorry but, I
should go to Guinea Bissau. I know your situation. Always, I visit many countries
around Latin America, Africa, Asia and east Europe and, good job with the woman.
2:00 Pm
Im near the stadium and I see some musicians. I go out and Conat says to me: Comeback here early! I approach them and I say: Why do you play your music? They say to
me: Its for the national soccer team. Tonight they will play against Mali soccer team.
They will win! Do you want to come? They give me a card with a draw of the all
Gambian soccer team. I say to them: Thats great but I should go to guinea Bissau and I
wont go to the soccer game.
2:30Pm
Were going to the Conats house. Ill go to Guinea Bissau tomorrow. While Conat
drives, I see two young people. They have weapons. Theyre hunters. In these
countries, monkeys meet is delicious and its very cheap and chickens meet is very
expensive. I say to Conat: Why do they hunt these animals? He says to me: Because
they get much money with it. I say to him: What does the government do against it? He
says to me: The president only gives statements about it but people dont pay attention.
Does the president want to be king? He says to me: Yes, he wants to be king of Gambia.
When we arrive, we have our breakfast.
04:58 Pm
I listen in the news: Militaries thwart an unrest. I say to Conat: Are true the words
of Jammeh, the president? He says to me: Which? I say to him: He says he can cure the
AIDS with prayers, dances and draughts. He says to me: No, its false. Jammeh is crazy.
AIDS doesnt have cure. I say to him: I read about prizes for the president Jammeh. Hesays to me: Those are of false foreign organizations. Jammeh says USAs president
thinks hes a good leader. And the French government will give him a prize. Its not
fair. The words of USAs president are false, very false He says to me: Will you go to
other country? I say to him: Yes, Im going to Guinea Bissau.
06:40 Pm
Conat drives me to the airport. Im going to wait my flight for tonight. Someone says
to me: Are you going to Guinea Bissau? I say to him: Yes Im going to there tonight. He
says to me: My names Mohamed. Im going to Guinea Bissau also. I say to him: Why
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do you be here? He says to me: Im here for work affairs, and Im from Guinea Bissau.
I eat some peanuts while I wait my flight. Mohamed turns the TV. We listen local
music. He says to me: Why do you be here? I say to him: I work for the nationalgeographic magazine. In this airport there are some Germans, Australians, Chineses and
Libyans. I approach the Libyans and I say to them: Where do you go? They dont
answer me and I come back to my place. I listen: Gabon: 07:15 Pm; Camern: 08.57
Pm; Malawi: 09:35 Pm and Guinea Bissau: 10:05 Pm. Its very late. Im going to sleep
here. Mohamed comes with some coffee for us. This is delicious-the coffee-. I say to
him: Do you have the all your family in Guinea Bissau? He says to me: Yes, my mother
Alicia lives in Bissau, the capital, with my brother Joao.
08:54 Pm
Im waiting my flight. Im very tired and I want to sleep. Mohamed is watching the
news. Im sleepy. I say to Mohamed: Tell me at the time. Mohamed is singing and says:Okay baby. I laugh just a moment
10:05 Pm
Were going up to our flight. Im sitting behind Mohamed and hes still listening to
music and singing I say to him: Stop! He says to me: I cant hear you. The countries
where people speak Portuguese are independents since 1974 and 1975. I try to call to
my friends but I cant engage my GPS here. Mohamed says to me: Do you want some
peanuts? I say to him: No, thanks. I can buy it in Bissau. How much is it in Gambia? He
says to me: 540 Dalasis. I say to him: Thats very expensive.
Wednesday (01:15 Am)
Were in Bissau. Its raining and were taking a cab. Mohamed pays 15 Francos of the
CFA. He sleeps now and he gets up when we arrive to his mothers house. Mrs. Alicia
goes out and receives us and she lets us go inside. I say: Where is Joao? She says: Hes
working in the hospital and hes going to come back here tomorrow morning.
Meanwhile, she shows us our beds.
08:04 Am
We get up early and we have our breakfast. Joao is here and he turns the radio. I say to
Joao: How much money do you get for your work? He says to me: 182 Francos of theCFA. I bring the food every weekend and my mother works as a dressmaker. She sells
her dresses for 96 Francos of the CFA. Here, there isnt economical growth. I say to
him: Its like in almost the all African countries. But South Africa is rich. He says to
me: Theres a dictatorship since 1980. I say to him; Its like in almost the all African
countries.
10:15 Am
Were watching TV. Mrs. Alicia looks out. Then, the second brother of Mohamed
arrives here. His name is Marcelo. He doesnt live here in Bissau. He lives in Bafat.
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He works for the treasury department. I listen in the radio The African Cup of Nations
will be in Guinea Bissau. They all together are happy for this notice. I say to Joao: Will
the African Cup of Nations be this year? He says to me: No, it wont be this year. Itllbe next year. I go out. People is very happy. They sing, dance and move flags of Guinea
Bissau.
11:40 Am
On the streets people is still in their celebrations for the statements of the CAF.
Meanwhile, I call to my friends. Theyre in Niger. I say to them: Are you right there?
They say to me: Yes, were in Niamey, the capital. Joao draws his drum and he plays
it. I say to him: Why do you play? He says to me: Because Ill watch the soccer team
next year. I check my folder and then, I take him a photo. I wont be here next year. Id
like stay here till next year but I cant.
01:05 Pm
Joao invites me to a concert. I cant say him NO. We go out and listen two young
people. Theyre saying: Lets go Guinea Bissau. There are many bands on the streets.
Theyre playing their musical instruments and they dance. Its very funny. We arrive to
the concert and we buy some things. There are many singers and musicians here. The
president of this country Malam Bacai Sanha is here also. Hes wearing a funny hat
with the colors of Guinea Bissaus flag.
04:30 Pm
The concert finishes and we come back to the house. I like it but I should go to the
south at 05:15 Pm. Id like come back here next year. I have my lunch and I watch TV
now. In the news I listen: Joao Vieira comes back here from Portugal. I know who he
is. Joao says: He wants to be president again but, he wont be it. He should come back
to the embassy in Portugal. Marcelo and his mother play cards while I rewrite my poem
and I give it to Joao. He reads it and then, he says to me: Ill show it to my mother.
05:15 Pm
I go to the south now. Ill be near to the frontier with Guinea-Conakry but, Im going
to there tomorrow. I`m alone. I leave Mohameds family and before Mrs. Alicia gives
me an embrace. I take a cab and leave Bissau. I see the landscape. Two young peoplecarry some bananas for the trade. I say to them: How much is it? They say to me: 1000
Francos of the CFA. I say to them: Where do you sell it? They say to me: Everywhere.
We go to Malafo now. I see many fruits and vegetables stands. The driver stops here
and buys some vegetables for eat.
05:49 Pm
We arrive to Malafo. Here, the sellers sell their bananas. Then, they come back with
me. I say to them: How much do you get? They say to me: We get 320 Francos of the
CFA. I say to them: Do you only sell Bananas? They say to me: No, we sell other
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things. On the weekends we sell jewelry but we should be careful with the bandits
around this country. I leave them and come back to the cab. Im going to the south. The
driver says to me: Where do you go? I say to him: I go to the frontier with Guinea. Hesays to me: Its a long way. You should keep here with me. In fact, my name is Luis.
07:00 Pm
Luis is putting oil to his car. Were near to the frontier and Im looking forward to it. I
see two old people far away from here. Luis finishes and we continue. He says to me:
Why do you be here? I say to him: people always say it. I work for the National
Geographic magazine. He says to me: Will you go to guinea Conakry? I say to him:
Yes, Im going to there and then, Ill go to Equatorial Guinea and Gabon. I know I
should be careful in those countries. He says to me: I hear in the news Theres going to
be a parade in Guinea-Conakry I say to him: Why? He says to me: Because they will
celebrate the holiday. Its for the government and their dictatorship since 1984.
08:45 Pm
Were in the frontier with Guinea-Conakry and I pay to the driver. Now, I should
wait tomorrow. Im going to sleep in a camp next to the toll. The finish of my trip is
near. Im not going to eat my dinner tonight. Im not hungry, but, Im very tired. Before
I see an ad with the face of Lansana Cont, the president of Guinea-Conakry.
Thursday (04:30 Am)
Im showing my passport to the custodies. They let me go and Im in Guinea
Conakry. There arent cabs here and I should walk. Im very nervous now. I want to go
to Conakry, the capital. I drink some coffee and I wait 1 hour.
05:30 Am
Everybody get up at this time and I begin to walk on the streets. I see a newsstand
and I go inside. Aristide, the seller says to me: I dont have newspapers. I say to him: Is
it true? He says to me: What? I say to him: The parade. He says to me: Yes, today, there
is a parade for celebrate the 27th year of the government. People dont work today and
children dont go to the school. In Guinea-Conakry people speak French. I try to
understand it but I cant. Im lucky because some people understand English here.
07: 15 AmIm still in Guinea Conakry. This country is independent since 1958. I see many
statues of the president Cont. He will say his statements tonight. Two children meet me
and give me a flag of guinea as a remember. They give me a card also. It has some
words and says: We love Lansana. Many people are sweeping the streets. I go to a
school. Im inside and Celestine, a teacher rehearses a dance with his students. I
approach them. I say to Celestine: Are you going to the parade? He says to me: Yes, I
should go to the parade.
08: 00 Am
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All thats neat for the parade. People say: Cont wont say his statements because hes
very sick. A woman dances with the music. Im going to be here till tonight. I take
some photos, but a military says to me: Give me your camera. I dont understand it.Then, he gives me my camera again. Im in a house. Instead go out, I m here far away
from the militaries. A woman called Jude says to me: Were tired with Cont. The
militaries come here and sing a song. I take some photos now, because they cant see
me. Many musicians come also and the all people wait the president of this country.
10:25 Am
Im here, in Judes house. She fears speak. I go out and listen to a singer. I see a car
with flowers. Everybody are very happy today but theres going to be a storm. The
parade continues and Im writing about it. Its very funny. United Nations is here and
Im going up to their car. Ill be with them till tomorrow. I say to them: Why do you be
here? They say to me: Were from the UN peacekeeping. We work in Sierra Leona andLiberia but we always come here. I say to them: Why? They say to me: Because the
disgruntled in Sierra Leona is very bad for this country. There are people from the
African Union, European Union, the African Parliament and I hear the president Cont
joins with others African presidents here.
I wont go to Sierra Leona and Liberia.
12:45 m
Im still with the UN peacekeeping. We go to the south of this country. I say to them:
Do you know about the parade? They say to me: It doesnt matter for us. Were here
because we should keep the peace and protect the civils against the insurgence. We
come to a place of the World Health Organization. There are some sicks. Peter, a
german doctor says to me: they have typhus. In these countries there are many deadly
illneses.
2:45 Pm
I listen to the radio. The parade finishes before. Cont joins with the leader of the
African Union. Its my unique day in Guinea-Conakry, the old Equatorial French
Africa. Its like French Sudan, but today thats Mali. Tomorrow Ill go to the airport.
Meanwhile I take some photos of the tribe. In these countries live many tribes. For
example: The fang and the Fulani. I have my lunch. The employees of the UN bring
here many weapons. They should do that and they do it in others countries in war.
3:27 Pm
The children play soccer now. They have T shirts of some soccer teams. At the finish
theyre very messy. The leader of the tribe sings and the children dance. Two old people
bring a monkey. Thats disgusting for me. I say to the leader: Why do you eat monkeys
meet? He says to me: We like it. He says to me: Do you want this bone as a remember?
I say to him: No thanks but, do you let me take a photo of the tribe? The leader joins the
all young people and I take them a photo. They have symbols in their faces, their necks
and their arms
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05:17 Pm
I cant be long here, and then people of the UN peacekeeping drive me to the airport. I
like these countries. Now, I go to the airport. Im going to take an airplane to Equatorial
Guinea. I should wait just 1 hour for my flight.
06:40 Pm
Im in the airport and Im waiting my flight. The finish of my trip is near. Ill go to
Equatorial Guinea and then Ill go to Gabon. There, Ill just come to Libreville, the
capital. Im resting now after day. Im talking with my friends. Theyre in Camern, in
Yaound Cameruns capital. I try to call to my mother. In Equatorial Guinea, peoplespeak Spanish also.
07:40 Pm
Im going up to my flight. Ill come to Malabo, Equatorial Guineas capital and I
want to go to Bioko. Im very tired but I cant sleep. I eat some chocolate and I calm
down. Im sitting and I think in some things. I m going to sleep now. Before, I listen
the captains voice: Ladies and gentlemen, first, we will come to Bioko and then, we
will continue to Malabo I think I can write about the Bubi. That tribe struggles for the
independence of Bioko. Their movement is called Movement April 1st.
Friday (02:30 Am)
Im in Bioko. This island and their animals are very cute but, the Fang and the Bubi
hunt them for eat. They say monkeys meet is very delicious and very cheap. Here,
there is exploitation of oil the arcade of the economy of Equatorial Guinea. Teodoro
Obiang, the dictator, doesnt let people surf in the internet. He fears unrest against him.
Hes in the government since 1979. Hes callous with everybody and his son Teodorn
is going to be the president.
04:45 Am
I see a restaurant and go inside. Here, people eat monkeys meet. They say It is
delicious. Pedro, an employee says to me: Do you want to eat? I say to him: No thanks.I see some young people. They bring a monkey. I take a photo but theyre in a bad
mood. I go to Malabo, called Santa Isabel at the time of Spanish domination and called
Malabo for Malabo Lopelo Melaka an old King of the Bubis.
06:50 Am
Im in the center of Malabo. Im inside the newsstand. Tomas, the seller says to me:
Its only information about the government. In Equatorial Guinea there arent
independent newspapers. I say to him: How much money do you get? He says to me: I
get only 48 Francos of the CFA. Id like do a better work. Will Teodoro Obiang do
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presidential elections? He says to me: No, he wont, he will establish his son in the
government. Its like a kingdom
08:14 Am
Im in the center of Malabo. Here, people want to be freed. I walking on the streets
and I see an ad with the face of Plcido Mic Agogo, a political leader. Hes very
generous with everybody and the all people want him as their president. I go inside the
fishmarket. I only see the fish but I dont want to buy it. I dont take photos here
because there are militaries out. I listen in the news: Presidential elections will be next
year. Equatorial Guinea is the richest country around west Africa. Equatorial Guinea
has a struggle with Gabon for sovereignty of Cocos and Congas islands.
10:40 Am The police thwart an unrest against the government. The dictator says he wont go
out the country. I try to talk with the militaries but they dont let me talk them. People
have weapons. There are some Bubis here. I go to the coast and I wait a ship. Im going
to Bata. Im going to Gabon tomorrow. The disgruntled in this country is very big. Im
going up to the ship and I take some photos.
12:35 m
Im in Bata. Here, the government calls the calm. Im inside the jeweler. The
jewelry is very cute but I dont have any money. I go out and I go to the bank but its
close. Im very nervous. I dont want to eat. I should leave this city and I should go to
the airport. Im going to Gabon. Someone gives me a card. Its going to be a concert for
the peace. Id like go there but I cant.
02:30 Pm
Im in my flight to Gabon. Its the end of my trip. In that country people speak
French. Its a short time. I try to rest and I listen to music. The instability is thought in
almost the all African countries. Its very bad. I see the landscape and I remember good
things of my trip.
04:40 Pm
I m in Libreville Gabons capital. This is the end of my trip. I like these countries butI dont like some things about them. For example, the dictators and the instability. Ill
go to Angola next month
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