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ADVENTURE WITH A SCISSORS BY AWUSHIE DARTEY

CHAPTER ONE

Sewing dates back to creation in the Garden of Eden, when man sinned, and realized

he was naked, God had to sew clothing for them with an animal skin. In the prehistoric

times also, man used leaves and the skin of animals to sew clothing for themselves. Man

have progressed with time, he can now make beautiful clothing, upholstery, bed clothes,

sails, banners, canvas, household furnishing and many more, for themselves or in

commercial quantities for sale, with other materials not only animal skin or leaves.

People sew clothing for themselves and their families; more often they make

adjustment to clothes, like mending a torn seam, fixing a button. Sewing then can be said

is for everyone, and like a visitor it knocks on every door. When sewing is taken up as a

profession then that person is either a dressmaker or a tailor.

Sewing is fastening, stitching or enclosing with either a needle by hand or sewing

machine using thread or wire that is the dictionary’s definition of sewing. Basic tools are

needed before any meaningful act of sewing could be accomplished.

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Basic tools for sewing

EQUIPMENT AND MATERIALS FOR SEWING

There are two types: Large – work table, mirror and machines

Small- needles, pins, bodkin and others.

USES OF SOME TOOLS.

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1. An Iron: Is used to press items smooth.

2. Iron board: A folded table on which items are placed on to be ironed.

3. Tailors Chalk: A chalk used for marking materials before cutting.

4. Needle: A stainless steal, sharp pointed at one end and a small hole at the other end

made for sewing.

5. Sewing Machine: A manual or electric machine used to join two or more pieces together.

6 Pins: A thin sharp pointed steel for holding things together.

7. Seam Ripper: For eyelets or removing temporary on permanent stitches.

8. Tracing Wheels: It is used for transferring markings from patterns to the material.

9. Threads: Are mainly for stitching temporary or permanent stitches.

10. Pin cushion: small cushions are used to hold the pins, making access to it easier.

11. Thimble: A small plastic or metal cup worn on the finger to prevent being pricked by a

pin or needle.

12 Tape measure: It is used for taking body measurements and measuring lengths.

13. Scissors: Are for cutting or neatening edges.

Scissors Marking chalk

THE SEWING MACHINE

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A sewing machine is acquired mainly for the purpose of designing or making

clothes for an individual or in large quantities for selling. Sewing machines could make ordinary

or patterned stitches, stitches that come out very decoratively beautiful.

HOW TO THREAD A MACHINE

Put the thread on to the spool pin.

Pass it through the tension disk.

The thread guide

The pressure regulator

The take-up lever

The thread guide

The needle.

Another thread comes from a bobbin case, beneath the feed dogs. Place the item to

be sewn under your pressure foot, lower the pressure foot on to it, bring the hand wheel

forward, sew.

HOW TO TAKE CARE OF THE SEWING MACHINE

The sewing machine is an expensive tool, so very good care must be taken of it for

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it to last long.

1. Thread the machine correctly.

2. Oil and run it regularly for the oil to spread all over.

3. Do not use cheap oil.

4. Do not use more oil than needed.

5. Use the correct needle requested by the manufacturer of the machine.

6. Set it on the correct tension

7. Fasten all machine parts securely, do not leave any hanging.

8. Use correct plugs and voltage.

9. Cover the machine when not in use to prevent dust from entering.

10. Keep it away from moisture, water or rainfall to avoid rapid rusting

11. Check the tip of the needle; it should be sharp and straight.

12. The needle and bobbin thread tension must balance

13. Check the strength of the sewing thread being used to avoid frequent breakage

TYPES OF MATERIALS FOR SEWING

There are many types of materials that can be used for sewing: cotton, wool, silk, linen, nylon

and rayon.

COTTON

Cotton is of various kinds: examples; calico, poplin, corduroy, cropon, gabardine and gingham.

These cotton types can be used for; dresses, coats, jeans, children’s wear, shirts, skirts, bed

sheets and blouses.

WOOL

Wool types are bouclé, crêpe, gabardine, tweed, wool, and worsted. They can be used to sew

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light suits, dresses, skirts, coats, and jackets.

SILK

Various silk types are chiffon, crepe, and surah. They can be used for dresses, blouses, scarves,

evening gowns, trimmings, and night wear.

NYLON

It is of various kinds: satin, and georgette. And can be used for blouses, lingerie, dresses,

trimmings, skirts, children’s wear and night dresses.

RAYON

The types are; satin, poplin, georgette, gingham, crepe, denim, and chiffon. They can be used to

sew dresses, jumper, suits, blouses, night gowns, shorts, jeans, skirts, and children’s wear.

LINEN

Linen is used for dresses, suits, and skirts.

HOW CLOTH IS CONSTRUCED

Strands are woven into cloth, through the warp and weft method. The warp runs vertically

whiles the weft, horizontally. The warp is the stronger than the weft, since it is the first thread

that is securely fixed on the loom, and then the weft is passed through. Since the warp is

stronger, its side does not fray easily, or thread cannot be drawn out easily.

weft

warp

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CUTTING ON A TRUE CROSS

To cut a bias, cut diagonally any length you want, that is cutting on a true cross and it would

not fray easily. It is used as a means of neaten raw edges of a garment. Mainly the strips are

joined together into a lengthy length, about the length of what is to be neatened or a little

longer.

THREADS FOR SEWING AND EMBROIDERY

Threads for sewing and embroidery are of different types, they are chosen according to

the fabric to be sewn, a cotton thread is very ideal for a cotton material. Embroidery threads are

stronger. Threads of various types: cotton, synthetic and fine linen.

TAPES AND TRIMMINGS FOR CLOSING OPENINGS, NEATENINGS AND DECORATIONS.

Some trimmings and tapes

Tapes and trimmings can be used to close openings, neatening (that is covering the raw edges),

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and for decorations.

INTERFACING

It is a garment used at the wrong side of a material, pressed with a hot hand iron, the

Textile gets stuck to the wrong side of the material hardening it. Interfacing gives body to fabrics

and parts of garments like the collars, cuffs, belts, skirt bands, and peter sham. It also prevents

the material from stretching.

SHOULDER PAD

A foam shoulder pad

Shoulder pads are of two types, fabric and foam, the fabric shoulder pad is more durable than

the foam one. Many dressmakers and tailors use it for sewing dresses, coats, jackets and other

things. The shoulder pad lifts the dress shoulder up, it prevent the shoulder from sloping, giving

the garment a very splendid look, the idea is to create a rounded look or a squared look on your

shoulder instead of the sloping one.

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NATURAL SOURCES

They are fine hair like structure of animals, vegetables, minerals or synthetic origin.

These soft tiny hairs like strands are used to make fabrics.

TYPES AND SOURCES OF TEXTILES FIBRES.

a. natural b. man – made fibres.

Natural fibres: animal fibres, plant fibres.

Man – made: Regenerated fibres, synthetic fibres.

ANIMAL FIBERS

They are complex proteins which are resistant to most organic acids, and can be

damaged by alkaline.

Silk is acquired from the silk worm, and is an animal fiber and a natural filament.

These hair fibers are spun into yarn and woven into fabrics. It could be longer than

1000m.

Wool is from the sheep. Other animals have hair and used for fabrics are Camels,

Llamas, Rabbits, Angora goats and Kashmir goats. Mink and beavers have fur fibers

which are used for fabrics.

VEGETABLE FIBRE

Vegetable fibers are natural fibers taken from around the seeds, strips of leaves

skin, raffia, palm fibers, cotton, Kapok, Yucca, grasses, hemp, jute, manila, and fibers of

sugar cane.

Cotton and Linen are examples of their end product.

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TEXTILE FIBRES OBTAINED FROM PLANTS AND ANIMALS.

PLANTS ANIMALS

Cotton Silk

Linen Wool

Jute Mohair

Kenaf Angora

CHARACTERISTICS

a. Animal absorbent: warm, durable, smolders when burnt, it smells like a burning hair.

b. Plant absorbent: strong, burns easily, smells like a burning paper when burnt with light

feathery ash.

FABRICS FROM THE DIFFERENT FIBERS

Cotton is of various kinds: examples; calico, poplin, corduroy, cropon, gabardine and

gingham.

Wool types are bouclé, crêpe, gabardine, tweed, wool, and worsted.

Various silk types are chiffon, crepe, and surah.

Linen: Damask, toweling, sheeting.

CARE OF NATURAL FABRICS

1. Wash white articles separately.

2. Wash dark colored articles separately

3. Read and obey all rules on the label.

4. Wash in the appropriate hot water.

FABRICS FOR SEWING.

CLASSIFICATION OF MAN MADE FIBRES

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1. Mineral fiber: Is glass, which is made from Silica sand.

2. Synthetic fiber: Is made from the organic polymers, these are mostly

thermoplastic. Examples are nylon and polyester.

3. REGENERATED FIBER: Rayon is a regenerated fiber, it is produced from a

natural polymers fiber, and it is known as Viscose or Art silk in the textile

industry. It is made to look like the silk.

FABRICS FROM MAN MADE FIBRES.

NYLON; it is of various kinds: satin, and georgette.

RAYON: The types are; satin, poplin, georgette, gingham, crepe, denim, and chiffon

CHARACTERICS

Rayon: absorbent and comfortable, takes dyes and finishes easily, wrinkles and

shrinks.

Polyester: wrinkle resistant, holds oil stains, dries quickly, low absorption.

Nylon: strong, quick drying, wrinkles resistant, heat sensitive.

CHAPTER 2

TAKING OF BODY MEASUREMENT

Get someone to take your body measurement, record it in a note book, you’ll

need your: notebook or measurement book because you will have to refer to it from

time to time

1. 2.

1. Across Chest 1. Across Back

2. Bust 2. Waist

3. Waist 3. Hip

4. Hip 4. Dress length

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5. Shoulder to waist

6. Short sleeve length

7. Across arm

8. Long sleeve length

9. Wrist

BODY LINES

MAKING OF BODY LINES

BACK FRONT

BACK FRONT

Body lines are simple to make, it helps you know which part of your body is the

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hip, waist and so on. Beginners must use a brown paper, to avoid waste of material. Get

your pencil, ruler, eraser, your measurement, tape measure, and brown paper. Lay the

paper on a flat surface.

Overlap your paper indicate planning for front and back.

From the edge move down 1 1/2inches, draw a line, that’s your guide line.

From the guide line move down blouse length, to get your waist line Divide the blouse

length to get the bust.

Divide the bust into two to get across chest and the across back.

From the waist line move down the hip depth length for the hip position.

NECKLINES

There’re three main types, in which others can be derived: round, square,

and the ‘V’ shape. It is about 3inches wide and 3 ½ - 4 inches deep.

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STITCHES

A stitch is a fastening with thread either by hand or with a sewing machine.

It can be temporary or permanent.

TEMPORARY STITCHES

Temporary stitches are tacks, first stitch. Tacks are big and loose, they are

mainly fixed on the material for a short period of time, to be replaced by a more

secured one, a permanent one.

TYPES

Even Tacks: The lengths of these tacks are the same.

Long and short tacks: The lengths of these tacks are not the same. One is long and

the other is short.

Diagonal tacking: Appropriate for securing two or more pieces of materials put

together securely till a permanent stitch

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1 2

3

Tailor’s tacks: It helps mark position of darts also mark paper patterns

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PERMANENT STITCHES

These are stitches that are fastened securely on to a garment. They may last

as long as the garment is in use. The stitch could either appear on the wrong or the

right side of the material depending on the purpose it is to serve.

These stitches maybe:

Stitches used to join pieces of materials together.

To neaten raw edges.

To put edge finishing in place

For decorative purposes.

To replace temporary stitches.

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STITCHES THAT JOIN

Running or machine stitches

Back stitch

Over sewing

NEATEN RAW EDGES

Blanket stitches

Buttonhole stitches

Herringbone stitches

Loop stitches

Over casting.

HOW SOME OF THE STITCHES ARE SEWN.

Hemming

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Slip Hemming

DECORATIVE STITCHES

1. Chain stitch 2. Faggoting stitch 3.Herringbone stitch

4. Stem stitch 5. Satin stitch 6. French stitch

Stem stitch Back stitch

Make loop stitches to the end of the bundle thread.

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Chain Stitch

Blanket Stitch Machine stitch

Satin Stitch

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CHAPTER 3

TEXTILES FIBRES

NATURAL SOURCES

They are fine hair like structure of animals, vegetables, minerals or synthetic origin.

These soft tiny hairs like strands are used to make fabrics.

TYPES AND SOURCES OF TEXTILES FIBRES.

a. natural b. man – made fibres.

Natural fibres: animal fibres, plant fibres.

Man – made: Regenerated fibres, synthetic fibres.

ANIMAL FIBERS

They are complex proteins which are resistant to most organic acids, and can be

damaged by alkaline.

Silk is acquired from the silk worm, and is an animal fiber and a natural filament.

These hair fibers are spun into yarn and woven into fabrics. It could be longer than

1000m.

Wool is from the sheep. Other animals have hair and used for fabrics are Camels,

Llamas, Rabbits, Angora goats and Kashmir goats. Mink and beavers have fur fibers

which are used for fabrics.

VEGETABLE FIBRE

Vegetable fibers are natural fibers taken from around the seeds, strips of leaves

skin, raffia, palm fibers, cotton, Kapok, Yucca, grasses, hemp, jute, manila, and fibers of

sugar cane.

Cotton and Linen are examples of their end product.

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TEXTILE FIBRES OBTAINED FROM PLANTS AND ANIMALS.

PLANTS ANIMALS

Cotton Silk

Linen Wool

Jute Mohair

Kenaf Angora

CHARACTERISTICS

a. Animal absorbent: warm, durable, it smolders and smells like a burning hair when put

in fire.

b. Plant absorbent: strong, burns easily, smells like a burning paper when burnt with light

feathery ash.

FABRICS FROM THE DIFFERENT FIBERS

Cotton is of various kinds: examples; calico, poplin, corduroy, cropon, gabardine and

gingham.

Wool types are bouclé, crêpe, gabardine, tweed, wool, and worsted.

Various silk types are chiffon, crepe, and surah.

Linen: Damask, toweling, sheeting.

FABRICS FOR SEWING.

CLASSIFICATION OF MAN MADE FIBRES

Mineral fiber: Is glass made from Silica sand.

Synthetic fiber: Is made from the organic polymers, these are mostly thermoplastic.

Examples are nylon and polyester.

REGENERATED FIBER: Rayon is a regenerated fiber, it is produced from a natural

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polymers fiber, and it is known as Viscose or Art silk in the textile industry. It is

made to look like the silk.

FABRICS FROM MAN MADE FIBRES.

NYLON; it is of various kinds: satin, and georgette.

RAYON: The types are; satin, poplin, georgette, gingham, crepe, denim, and chiffon

CHARACTERICS

Rayon: absorbent and comfortable, takes dyes and finishes easily, wrinkles and

shrinks.

Polyester: wrinkle resistant, holds oil stains, dries quickly, low absorption.

Nylon: strong, quick drying, wrinkles resistant, heat sensitive.

SLEEVES

A sleeve covers the arm or the arm passes through. The style depends on the garment,

culture or what the owner wants. It could be long or short, big or small and fashionable

or simple.

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SHIRT SLEEVE

A shirt sleeve is a sleeve joined to a shirt mainly, but creativity has taught us that it

is now used in dresses and blouses.

Measure the length of the sleeve on the folded material. Measure the armhole

length too, divide the armhole length by two, move in 2inches for slim people, 2

1/2inches for medium, 3inches for large, 3 1/2inches to 5inches for extra large.

At the unfolded edge of the material move in 4inches for slim, 4 ½ inches for

medium. 5 – 8 inches for large and extra large people. For the round arm move in 2

inches. Leave allowance, stitch the sides, turn the hem, sew or use crossway

strips or binding to finish the edge.

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PUFF

½ inch Length of the sleeve ½ inch

Use the same method as the shirt sleeve

The measurement depend on how big you like your puff. Gather the hem

using the round arm measurement. Gather the armhole of the sleeve to fit the

armhole of the bodice block. Turn the hem with the crossway strips.

ROSSETT

A rossett is cut like a puff; the only differences is that, from the round arm move in 1 to

2 inches and gather. Pull and fix on to garment.

LONG SLEEVE

The method of shirt sleeve is used again for the long sleeve. Measure the

long sleeve measurement on the fold. Join from the armhole narrowing it at wrist. Fix

the cuff on to it and set it into a bodice block.

Fix cuff on to the sleeve, let it go all round the wrist.

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SETTING SLEEVES INTO THE BODICE

Complete sewing the sleeve.

Measure the armhole line of the bodice, adjust where necessary.

Turn the bodice inside out, with the wrong side showing.

Fix the right hand sleeve into the right armhole of the bodice. Pin and sew.

Set the left sleeve into the bodice in the same manner.

Neaten the edges, and press the sleeves.

SHIRT A shirt can be referred to as an upper body garment, it is a garment with a collar, sleeves and opening with buttons that could be a formal one. Shirts are of various kinds. It could be made of thick materials or lighter ones, it depends on the atmosphere.

.

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Front Back

Plan and cut out the front and the back

Front Slit the front neckline any length you want.

Cut out a straight piece, fold and join it to the slit neckline, and sew it. This is what is known as a continous opening.

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Cut out shaped facing for the back and front

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Fix the sleeve on to the shirt. Cut out sleeve

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SHORT SLEEVE SHIRT

Cut out the front. back

Join the back pieces, one at the back and the other at the front, turn hiding the raw edges. Take about 11/2 inches off the front and add it to the back, Join the back to the front

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. Join front to the back

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Fix the sleeve

Plan and cut the collar using the neck measurement

Add an interface to make it firm.

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Attach it to the neck and stitch.

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LAPEL

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Front Back Fold the material on to the neck and part of the shoulder and cut the neckline.

Fold the allowance on to the neck, stitch about 1 inch, join the back and front shoulders. Trim the 1 inch Stitch about a quarter. Nip the end of the stitch.

Cut the collar

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Insert the collar, stitch to the end of facing. Open up the collar and stitch only one part of it, stitch till you get to the facing. Stitch both parts together, nip the end of the facing, then fold about a quarter of the other part inside, stitch.

Iron Fold the collar and iron.

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CHAPTER 4

TROUSERS A trousers or pants or slacks or a breech covers the lower part of the body, hiding the waist,

hip, and the thighs since it extends to the ankle. It was meant to be a man’s clothing initially, but

convenience it causes as a result of wearing it attracted women to start wearing it. Its

construction is very simple

CROTCH

The crotch is taken when one wants to sew a trouser or shorts. It is taken when

the person is seated. From the waist to the tip of the seat

In the picture below:

W - waist

H - hip

T - thigh

SL - shorts length

TL - trouser length

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C - crotch

In this picture it is seen that before one could construct a trouser you will need, the waist line, at the top in the picture, the hip depth, crotch, and trouser length. Measure the crotch, by measuring from the waist to the point it ends and mark. Then from where it ends move on that line to the end of the material’s edge, that is the crotch

measurement. Curve from the waist through the hip depth to the crotch. This method goes for all

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that falls within the trouser family; the culottes, beach wear and shorts.

Cut the back and the front, two pieces each, the back is slightly bigger than the front because of the hips.

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Join the pieces together, back and the front, hold pleats at both sides of the waist, front and back.

Put the back and the front together, you could fix a flap at the for either a button or zip. Iron If there is not a zip, then fix elastic at all the waist or at only the back.

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Fix the band and hem the trouser. CULOTTES Culottes is a French word, it is a garment that is worn by gentlemen of the upper class. It is

closed and fastened at the knee.

Women also have culottes; it is more of a skirt than culottes, infact it is known as divided skirt.

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Shape and cut, the shape looks more of a skirt when worn. Cut both front and back. Join like the trouser

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BEACH WEAR

Cut front and back join the pieces together. SHORTS Shorts are garments worn by both sexes to cover their pelvic areas, it covers the upper part

of the thigh. In historic times, shorts were worn by boys, until they reached a certain age. Men

hardly wore them that changed with time. It is a fashion these days, a casual wear; it can hardly

be worn to the office though.

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Cut the shorts

Join the pieces together. Cut a flap FIXING A FLAP Cut the flap and fix 3 pieces, two on the right and one for the left. Insert the zip, fix one of the flap for the right, use the other to turn it, top stitch. Fix the flap on the left, turn and top stitch.

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Cut the pattern, and the flaps – three pieces

Measure the zip length and stitch the remaining.

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Fix the zip in between the flap

Measure between ½ - 1inch from the edge of the piece, mark and fix the zip.

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The wrong side of a zip closed.

The front side of a fixed zip.

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Fix a band and loops for belt. Cut a straight piece and fix it at the waist, then sew. Remember to fix in loops

POCKETS POCKET AS PART OF THE GARMENT Shape the pocket at the left of the garment Place a piece under and cut out the mouth of the pocket. Place the small piece of material at the right side of the material and sew, turn and iron. flap Join the rectangle piece to the shaped Join the other parts just like the shorts,

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Piece and sew, the rectangle piece extending fixing flap. the edge. PATCH POCKET Cut the pocket any shape you want and put it on the garment and stitch BOUND POCKET

1. Cut a piece of material 4inches by 7inches and 6inches by 7inches. 2. Divide into two with a straight line.

3. Move from each edge 11/2 inches, mark a and b

4. From the edge of the material measure one inch and mark, measure half an inch across

the 1inch point. And name it c and d and e and f.

5. Draw a line from b to c, b to d, a to e and a to f.

6. Place the piece 7inches by 4inches at the place where you want the pocket to be.

7. Sew c to d and e to f.

8. Cut a to b, a to e, a to f, b to d and b to c.

9. Turn inside, tuck all round and then close g to h with needle and thread.

10. Lift f to c, f to e, e to d, and c to d up and sew.

11. Join the other piece which is 7inches by 6inches to e to d and f to c, stitch the sides,

folding the raw edges inside.

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WELT The same method as the bound pocket. SHAPED FACING

1. 2. 1 Put a material under the neckline, shape and cut out same as the neck place it on the garment and sew. 2. Cut the facing as the shape of the neck, place it on it and stitch.

A DRESS

A dress is clothing sewn to cover the upper and lower parts of the body; it is to

hide some very important parts of the body. It could be tight or loose, long or short;

it may depend on the atmosphere, the occasion it is to be worn. It is a woman’s

clothing and may seem funny for it to be worn by a man. There are many types,

party dress, cocktail dress, formal dress, ballroom dress, and many others.

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TO CONSTRUCT A DRESS

Construct a simple dress at the beginning, then progress to a more complicated

one.

Divide the shoulder to waist measurement by two to get the bust line, then

the bust line measurement also into two to get the across back or chest. From the

guide line come down one inch to give you the shoulder line. From the waist line

come down the hip depth measurement. Hip depth is normally 9inches for adults and

5-7 inches for children.

The neck line is 3-4inches for adults and 2-3inches for children.

Measurements like the bust, hip and waist are divided by 4, before it is measured on

the folded material, whiles others are divided by two.

BACK FRONT

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DRESSES Cut the front and back

Put the front and back together and stitch, lining it.

. Dresses are worn at all occasions, casually, at parties, weddings, lunches, dinners,

in fact everywhere

. A DRESS THAT FITS: SLEEVELESS

A dress that fits shows all your curves, your shape coming out. It could a plain

dress or with its added accessories; like the collars, sleeves pockets and the others. The

garment is cut according to your measurement, adding a few inches for allowance

1. Plan your body lines to the hip depth.

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1.

2. Cut and put the two together, both front and back, sew.

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3. Cut a bias and use as an edge finisher; carefully fold in the bias at the curve, stitch.

A STRAIGHT DRESS

1 2

1. Plan your body lines.

2. Measure your body measurements to the across chest/ back for

Both front and back.

From the bust to hem use the hip measurement , unless the person is fat, then

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her normal bust measurement should be used. Adding an inch or two. Then measure

hip measurement from the waist.

4. Hip measurements are used for slim and medium people, cut and sew.

PANELS FROM SHOULDER

FROM ARMHOLE 1. Cut the pieces leaving allowance 2. Join the pieces together For sewing. LONG DRESS Pattern for the long dress

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CHAPTER 5

KIMONO, DOLMAN, AND REVER

These styles could either be a dress or a blouse; it is just a matter of extending the length

to a dress length. They are simple styles to sew; the Rever is the Lapel without a collar.

The picture shows the front of the styles, the back is the usual high back neckline, with or

without an opening.

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KIMONO DOLMAN REVER

DOLMAN REVER KIMONO COLLARS Collars are fixed on necklines of garments as an edge finisher, or to beautify the garment.

They are of various types; the rounded collar, shirt collar, standing or chinese collar and the

sailor’s collar.

Peter pan Sailors Shirt

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Peter pan Sailors Shirt .

Standing/Mandarin/Chinese collar.

SKIRT

A skirt is a garment shaped in a form of a cone or a tube, worn from the waist

down to the knee or beyond to the legs, covering parts or all the legs. It is considered

women’s clothing although some cultures do permit men to wear it. It could be long or

short depending on the wearer.

The most common skirts that are usually joined to a bodice block are: gathers,

pleats, and flair.

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HOW TO CONSTRUCT GATHERS

1. Sew two gathering stitches about half 2. Pull the stitches to the waist measurement

an inch apart.

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Put the gathered skirt under the bodice block to have a clear picture of what it would

look like when joined together.

PLEAT

Pleats are more complicated to construct, and must be handled with care. They are of

various kinds: box, knife, and inverted pleats.

Combination of some of the pleats; box and knife pleats into a skirt.

KNIFE PLEAT

Multiply your hip measurement by three, cut a straight piece to that

effect, mark points, either an inch or half an inch interval.

Number the points, it helps folding and makes the process easier.

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

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Leave point one, fold 2 onto 4, with 3 hidden inside, 5 onto 7, 8 onto 10, till

the end where you have to leave a point for sewing. Pin, tack, iron it or you’ll

loose your pleats.

BOX/ INVERTED PLEATS

Use the length for the box and inverted pleats, the hip measurement

multiplied by two plus zip or button allowance. Mark same as the knife pleats,

the box pleat is the wrong side of the inverted pleat.

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Inverted pleat Box pleat

Straight Skirt

This is how a straight skirt is constructed, where the straight line begins is the waist line, Where it ends is the length of the skirt. HD is the hip depth that is where the hip is measured.

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SKIRT WITH PLEAT

Cut the skirt leaving extra allowance in front for the pleat .

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Fold the allowance to make a box pleat. Then stitch. Stitch till the allowance

Add lining The front is an inverted pleat. Stitch the sides and hem STRAIGHT SKIRT WITH FLAIR AT THE BOTTOM

Cut out the pattern Add lining and stitch the sides.

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STRAIGHT SKIRT WITH DART

Shape the skirt Mark position for dart FRONT

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BACK Hold the dart

Fix a band BACK FRONT FLAIR It is cut on a cone.

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Shape the waist line and Join to a bodice block or finish the sewng on to length of the skirt and cut. a skirt, wear with a blouse

BODICE BLOCK

Bodice block is a garment constructed up to the waist, mainly with the intention

of attaching it to a skirt. All the measurements required to the waist are needed; like the

waist, bust, across back and chest, shoulder and others. Construct for both front and back.

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front back

Join the front and the back together. ZIP Fix zip on to a dress Turn the front and make sure that the two ends meet hiding the zip. BUTTONS Buttons are fixed to either close an opening or for decorative purposes. Pass the needle through the hole, on to the material. Turn the material and sew from the back, pick the material and button together, sew till firm. Pass the needle through the first top hole to the other, then the bottom holes in the same manner till securely fixed.

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DART Position of darts a – waist d – waist g – in a dress b – neck line e - shoulder c – wrist f – trouser waist a b Hold the two position mark at the bottom, pin narrowing it till it meets at the position up. Stitch and turn the front, iron it, to get a smooth surface. YOKES FROM ARMHOLE

Cut the yoke and the main body of the dress. YOKE

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Gather the main body of the dress and attach the yoke FROM THE SHOULDER

Open the armhole of the dress, and the sleeve, insert the sleeve into the armhole right sides facing and stitch Awushie Dartey Box 0223 Osu Accra Ghana W/A awushiedartey@yahoo.com Tel 00233 208596900 .

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