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THE PYR MID FIELDS OF GIZ UNVEIL THE MYSTERIES OF EGYPT IN CAPTIVATING CAIRO Despite the current political and economic climate, visitors from all over the globe are flocking to Memphis. Not the one in Tennessee, rather the ancient city that was once the capital of the Old Kingdom of Egypt, just a short drive south of Cairo on the west bank of the famed Nile River. For literally thousands of years, captivated audiences have marveled at the mysterious remains of an extensive necropolis on the Giza plateau. [ ] 212 THE AFFLUENT TRAVELER SUMMER/FALL 2009 213 BY MARISSA CANDELA [ TOURS & DESTINATIONS ]

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THE PYR MIDFIELDS OF GIZ

UNVEIL THE MYSTERIES OFEGYPT IN CAPTIVATING CAIRO

Despite the current political and economic climate, visitors from all over the globe are flocking toMemphis. Not the one in Tennessee, rather the ancient city that was once the capital of theOld Kingdom of Egypt, just a short drive south of Cairo on the west bank of the famed Nile River.For literally thousands of years, captivated audiences have marveled at the mysterious remains ofan extensive necropolis on the Giza plateau.[ ]

212 THE AFFLUENT TRAVELER SUMMER/FALL 2009 213

BY MARISSA CANDELA

[ TOURS & DESTINATIONS ]

WH T IS ITS LLURE, EX CTLY?PICTURE EXPANSIVE DESERT THAT INCLUDES:

ORNATE MASTABAS (FLAT-ROOFED, RECTANGULARROCK TOMBS); MAGNIFICENT PYRAMIDS THAT

HELD PRICELESS TREASURES AND THE ENIGMATICMUMMIFIED REMAINS OF EGYPT’S ANCIENT

RULERS; THE GREAT SPHINX; AND MORE.

Awarded universal recognition for “the Pyramids, their antiquity and the exceptional civilizationthey represent,” this site was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 1979, and includes regionsin Saqqara, Dahshur, Abu Ruwaysh and Abusir, also worth visiting.

Interestingly enough, Giza is generally thought of by outsiders as lying in a remote, desertlocation. Rather, it is located in a suburb of the most populated city in Africa with urban developmentreaching right up to the perimeter of the archeological site, so finding a plethora of things to do andplaces to stay in the area is not an issue. However, the main draw is of course, the pyramids…

AWE-INSPIRING GIZA PYRAMIDSThere are a total of about 80 pyramids in Egypt, andmost were royal tombs that contained an innersepulchral chamber that housed a deceased ruler andbeloved artifacts. It is the massive, widely-knownGreat Pyramid of Khufu (also known as the “Great

Pyramid”) and the iconicSphinx at Giza that aresynonymous with Egyptin most people’s minds.Although frequently filledwith throngs of visitors,Egypt’s edifices cannot be

surpassed in beauty and historical value.Miraculously, the Great Pyramid is the only one

of the “Seven Wonders of the Ancient World” still inexistence. Built during a 30-year period concludingaround 2560 BC during the Fourth Dynasty of Egypt’sOld Kingdom, it was once considered the tallest man-

made building in the world. Believed to have been builtas a tomb for Fourth-Dynasty Egyptian King Khufu,it is the main part of a complex setting of buildingsin honor of the ancient ruler, along with the slightlysmaller-scaled Pyramid of Khafre, somewhat modest-sized Pyramid of Menkaure, Khufu’s boat pits, three“Queen’s Pyramids” for his wives and several mastabatombs for the royal posse.

Although there have been varying scientific andalternative theories regarding the Great Pyramid’sconstruction techniques, most are based on the ideathat it was built by moving huge stones from a quarryand dragging and lifting them into place. This was noeasy feat however, as there are an estimated 2.3 millionblocks used to build the Great Pyramid, with an averageweight of about 2.5 tons per block with the largest blockweighing as much as 15 tons. This alone evokes jaw-dropping amazement. The stones are laid so preciselythat not even a razor can be slipped between the joints.

WARNING:UPON ENTERING KHUFU:

THE 1908 EDITION OFBAEDEKER’S EGYPT WARNS

“TRAVELERS WHO ARE INTHE SLIGHTEST DEGREE

PREDISPOSED TO APOPLECTICOR FAINTING FITS, AND

LADIES TRAVELLING ALONE,SHOULD NOT ATTEMPT

TO PENETRATE INTO THESESTIFLING RECESSES.”

SOURCE: WWW.PBS.ORG

MIRACULOUSLY, THE GREATPYRAMID IS THE ONLY ONE OF THE

“SEVEN WONDERS OF THE ANCIENTWORLD” STILL IN EXISTENCE.[

CONTINUED ON PAGE 216

214 THE AFFLUENT TRAVELER

Photo Credits (clockwise, from top-left):1) ©GARDEL Bertrand/hemis.fr; 2) ©GARDELBertrand/hemis.fr; 3) ©GARDEL Bertrand/hemis.fr;4) ©GARDEL Bertrand/hemis.fr; 5) ©GARDELBertrand/hemis.fr; 6) ©RIEGER Bertrand/hemis.fr

[ TOURS & DESTINATIONS ]

In the past, the work was thought to have been carriedout by slaves, but evidence of burial grounds of laborershas since been discovered.

INSIDE THE GREAT PYRAMIDWhether you are interested in history or not,the pyramids are very impressive, especially whenwandering at their bases and standing beneath them.Signing up for the late afternoon/evening tour isrecommended. Although more costly than middayexpeditions, the pyramids at sunset are infinitely morespectacular. Those who are not claustrophobic can goinside, since the interior is interesting to see eventhough grave robbers have long since depleted itsinteriors, but you can check out the nearby EgyptianMuseum in Cairo, which has a large number of artifactsfrom the surrounding archaeological digs.

Some visitors understandably dislike the idea ofcrouching and crawling through long tunnels to the

King’s and Queen’s Chambers,especially when they think ofthe tons of rock piled on topof where they stand. The airinside is also very dense andthick, but for the strong of heartthis can be the adventure of

a lifetime. Visitors were once allowed to climb theGreat Pyramid, but at 449 feet high, it since has beendeemed too dangerous, so climb a camel and take aride instead.

THE GREAT SPHINXThe majestic, enigmatic Sphinx faces east and seemsto function as sentinel over the entire configuration.

With the body of a lion and what is believed to be thehead of Khafre, the Sphinx is carved from the naturallimestone of Giza. Parts of it have disintegrated overthe years with entire pieces dropping into the desert. Itis not known to have inside chambers like those foundin the pyramids, but just gazing at the exterior of thisregal monument is a wonder to behold.

SEE THE NILE IN STYLEAs the longest river on Earth, the Nile runs through theAfrican continent with palm trees and lush greeneryand is a stark contrast from the nearby desert. Rich withhistory, ancient Egypt’s civilization first developedalong its banks about 5,000 years ago. The river wasalso used to transport supplies and building materialsto the pyramids, so there is a strong connection.

To fully experience the river, stay nearby at the stylishSofitel el Gezirah Hotel, which provides a privilegedlocation on a Nile island in the heart of Cairo, or enjoytimeless vistas of river life unfold along a journey downthe Nile. Options include an intimate five-star SonestaSun Goddess ship, purpose-built for cruising on the Nilewith just 62 well-appointed outside staterooms featuringa panoramic picture window, private bath and other fineamenities. The intimate ship also includes fine dining,a spacious lounge, Sun Deck and refreshing pool.

Visit Cairo and experience the only remaining“Ancient Wonder of the World” in Memphis on theGiza plateau, as well as other notable necropolis nearby.Nicknamed “The City of a Thousand Minarets,” Cairohas a mix of historical and modern cultural sights, whereone can travel back in time through pyramid portals orstay firmly planted in present through shopping, finedining, upscale accommodations and so much more.

THE UNITED NATIONS EDUCATIONAL,SCIENTIFIC AND CULTURAL ORGANIZATION

(UNESCO) SEEKS TO ENCOURAGE THEIDENTIFICATION, PROTECTION ANDPRESERVATION OF CULTURAL ANDNATURAL HERITAGE AROUND THE

WORLD CONSIDERED TO BE OFOUTSTANDING VALUE TO HUMANITY.

A UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE IS ASITE THAT IS ON THE LIST MAINTAINED

BY THE INTERNATIONAL WORLDHERITAGE PROGRAM ADMINISTERED BY

THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGECOMMITTEE. EACH WORLD HERITAGE

SITE IS THE PROPERTY OF THE STATE ONWHOSE TERRITORY THE SITE IS

LOCATED, BUT IT IS CONSIDERED INTHE INTEREST OF THE INTERNATIONALCOMMUNITY TO PRESERVE EACH SITE.

FOR MORE INFORMATION OR TOPARTICIPATE IN PRESERVATION EFFORTS,

PLEASE VISIT WHC.UNESCO.ORG.

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 214

THE AIR INSIDE IS ALSO VERYDENSE AND THICK, BUT FOR THESTRONG OF HEART THIS CAN BEAN ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME.[

[VISIT-WORTHY DAHSHUR:YET ANOTHER ROYAL NECROPOLIS LOCATED IN THE DESERT ON THE WEST BANK OF THE NILE SOUTH OF CAIRO IS DAHSHUR, AREGION KNOWN CHIEFLY FOR SEVERAL PYRAMIDS, TWO OF WHICH ARE AMONG THE OLDEST, LARGEST AND BEST-PRESERVED INEGYPT. CALLED “THE BENT PYRAMID” AND “THE RED PYRAMID,” THEY WERE CONSTRUCTED DURING THE REIGN OF PHARAOHSNOFRU, FATHER OF KHUFU OF THE OLD KINGDOM. THE UNUSUAL SHAPE OF THE BENT PYRAMID IS UNIQUE, AND REPRESENTSA TRANSITIONAL PYRAMID FORM BELIEVED TO HAVE BEEN THE RESULT OF AN ENGINEERING CRISIS ENCOUNTERED DURINGCONSTRUCTION. THE RED PYRAMID IS THE WORLD’S FIRST TRUE SMOOTH-SIDED PYRAMID.

216 THE AFFLUENT TRAVELER

Photo Credits (clockwise, from top-left):1) ©GARDEL Bertrand/hemis.fr; 2) ©GARDELBertrand/hemis.fr; 3) ©GARDEL Bertrand/hemis.fr;4) ©GARDEL Bertrand/hemis.fr; 5) ©GARDELBertrand/hemis.fr; 6) ©GARDEL Bertrand/hemis.fr

[ TOURS & DESTINATIONS ]

Sipán (which can also be explored just afew kilometers to the west). During recentrestoration e!orts, a suite of pre-Hispanicburials were discovered inside of the altarand beneath the floor of the chapel, quiteatypical of a Catholic church.

The lovely port and beach resort ofPimentel and the traditional town ofSaña,with its Colonial houses and churchesin ruins, round out nearby attractions.

!e Convent of San Francisco"e Convent of San Francisco is located inthe city of Olinda,which features a numberof major must-sees, such as a historic down-town area, and the wildly popular Carnivalof Olinda. Along with the convent dozensof Baroque churches,convents, small chapels,monuments, and houses make up the city’sarchitectural and urban landscape.

The Convent of San Francisco is thefirst Franciscan monastery built in Braziland one of the most important monumentsin all of historic Olinda. In use since 1585,the current complex was constructed in1631 following the destruction of the firstconvent by Dutch invaders. Rendered in aPortuguese-Baroque style, the convent iswidely known for its fantastic Portuguesetile work, vibrant polychrome murals,stately 17th-century fountain and rarebook collection. The convent is still usedby the Franciscan order, and several friarsstill occupy a portion of it.

The site is tucked within the city’s slopingtopography and historic buildings. This,

along with the luxurious vegetation andgardens and proximity to the sea, allcontribute to Olinda’s particular charm.

The Jesuit Guaraní MissionsThe Jesuit Guaraní Missions hold theremains of 30 towns that prospered underthe Jesuits in the 17th and 18th centuries.Although originally built in the heartof a tropical forest near the Paraná andUruguay Rivers, they now reside in Paraguay,Argentina and Brazil. Still relatively closeto one another, they are connected by whatis known as the “Royal Roads.”

Admire the unique style of the Jesuit GuaraníMissions, prime examples of the fusion ofSpanish baroque architecture and indigenousGuaraní sculptural work (what art historiansdeem “Guaraní Baroque”).And while somelocations are in better condition than others,all 30 towns were part of an interconnectedsystem where each provided a specialtysuch as beef production, a printing press,precious metal production, carpentry andmore.Visitors who frequent the Argentinalocation can enjoy a recently opened, state-of-the-art visitor’s center.

Located within the vicinity is the breath-taking natural site of Iguazu Falls, aka “theGreat Waters,” which offers exceptionalnatural beauty with its high, crashing water-falls and rare, endangered species.

Marissa Candela has written extensively withinthe realms of travel, cuisine, wine, healthand fitness, and home restoration. A formerEnglish teacher, she is also very interestedin natural health and music, and sings in aband in her spare time. Marissa holds a BAfrom New York University and an MA fromStony Brook University. She currently lives on

Long Island, New York, with her 5-year-old daughter and Cairn terrier.

164 THE AFFLUENT TRAVELER

| Expedition For Preservation |

SOUTH AMERICAN TREASURES 165

Although e!orts are being made to do justthat, the old adage stands true… nothinglasts forever. So we need to prevent thesepriceless sites from fading into the earthand learn all we can while they still stand.Whether it’s an ancient temple, sacrosanctchurch, ethereal chapel, historic conventor diverse missions spread across threecountries, these hallowed grounds holdmany priceless secrets and mysteries ofsocieties past, waiting to be untapped.We,as humanity, need to do our best to preservethem for as long as possible.

Huaca de la LunaOne of the most important archaeologicalsites in all of Peru is located 8 km southof Trujillo, the bustling Peruvian city,where two massive, crumbling adobemounds seemingly rise from the desert.Built during the Moche Empire,Huaca de

la Luna was a revered religious complex thathas produced some of the most spectacularand best-preserved murals in Peru.

Nestled inside the huaca are untoldmysteries and unearthed treasure. At itsbase is a single, compact platform, builtaround 100AD, in which the bodies ofdeceased rulers lie. Over a period of 700years, this L-shaped temple evolved intoa 100-yard stepped pyramid with as manyas eight levels. But because of gold andpriceless artifacts beneath, it has been thetarget of relentless plundering for hundredsof years. Recent discoveries indicate evenmore tombs are nearby, hidden in hundredsof feet of adobe bricks.

Nearby are the ruins of the Chimu mud cityof Chan Chan, the world’s largest city builtout of adobe Chan-chan.

San Pedro deMórropeThe Chapel of San Pedro de Mórropeis located in the town of Mórrope inLambayeque, a city in northern Peru thatis rich in historical past and exceptionalmuseums that feature local artifacts. Builton a pre-Hispanic ceremonial site, thechapel was constructed at the beginning ofthe Colonial period in an effort to bringChristianity to the indigenous Moche.

Once inside San Pedro de Mórrope,observe columns and rafters that resemblethe bones of a whale. This ethereal effectwas brought about by the constructiontechniques of the Moche,who utilized pre-Hispanic materials such as plaster-coatedcarob tree trunks and mud.Another curiouse!ect is the chapel’s main altar, in the formof a stepped pyramid and reminiscent of the1,700-year-old Moche burial mound in

South American Treasures:Architectural Marvels Shine On

byMarissa Candela

South America holds some of the world’s most precious monuments and architectural sites.However,pollution, neglect, vandalism and looting contribute to the diminishment of their value and theintegrity of the visitor’s overall experience. It is more important than ever to preserve these sites andwork together in defending our world’s shared architectural heritage…before it is too late.

Although time and the elements havetaken their toll, these sites are nowprotected from ravage by the WorldMonuments Fund (WMF)."ankfully,this organization’s tireless e!orts haverevitalized these cherished sites.

The WMF is the foremost private,nonprofit organization dedicated to thepreservation of endangered architecturaland cultural sites around the world.Since 1965,WMF has worked tirelesslyto stem the loss of historic structures atmore than 500 sites in 91 countries.

World Monument Fund’s work spans awide range of sites and works with localpartners and communities to identifyand save important heritage throughinnovative programs of project planning,fieldwork, advocacy, grant-making, edu-cation and on-site training.

Every two years,WMF issues its WorldMonuments Watch List of 100 MostEndangered Sites, a global call to actionon behalf of historic sites in need ofimmediate intervention.

For more information on some of theworld’s most treasured and endangeredsites, visit the World Monuments Fundatwww.wmf.org or call our developmentsta! at 646.424.9594.

San Pedro deMórrope

!e Convent of San Francisco

Photo courtesy of World Monuments Fund

Photo courtesy of World Monuments Fund

Editorial_World Monuments_Marissa:Layout 1 7/15/08 10:12 AM Page 164