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Addis Ababa,14th February 2020 Investment & Technology Upgradation in Africa‘s T&A Sector- Opportunities & Challenges

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Page 1: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Addis Ababa,14th February 2020

Investment &

Technology

Upgradation in

Africa‘s T&A Sector-

Opportunities &

Challenges

Page 2: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Key messages

• XX

Preferential market access is still a key driver for FDI in Africa

Large regional market(e.g.,ECOWAS 350 million)

Shifts in global textile chain present new opportunities…..and risks for

international buyers

Renewed interest of international buyers in sourcing from Africa….

and lessons from successful apparel exporting countries

1

2

3

4 Significant potential for investment for upgradation and expansion across

the African textile value chain as the enabling environment improves…. 5

Page 3: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Value Chain

Salient features

Raw materials

(Cotton)

Traditional textile

industry Import trade

Cotton-Textile-Apparel Value chain is highly fragmented

Apparel export

sector

1 2 3 4

• West African

Franc zone

represents 2/3rd

of Cotton pdn

• Increasing

production

• Potential to

improve

productivity

• Estb1960-90’s

• Stagnation (Y2K)

• Integrated mills

• Traditional fabrics

for local mkt

• Uncompetitive

• Potential for

revival

• Growing pentration

with 90% market

share

• Unorganised ,Grey

cross border trade

• 2nd hand clothing

• Emerging modern

retail

• Shift towards RMG

• Driven by

preferential market

access to EU/US

• FDI driven

• CMT

• Interest from int’l

buyers

• Global players enter

• Future integration

Page 4: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Textile investments

North America Western Europe

Africa

Total Asia & Oceania

(incl. Pakistan, India, China, Vietnam)

South America

China

Eastern Europe

India

World installed ring spinning capacity [mn spindles]: 2018

Turkey

5.6 5.6 5.7 5.8 3.5 4.1

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

3.4 3.5 1.4 1.4 1.2 0.9

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

3.9 3.7 3.7 3.7 1.2 1.0

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

110 120 100 114 105 104

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

3.7 4.6 6.1 7.4 7.2 7.8

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Vietnam

46 48 45 52 54 52

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

6.5 6.5 7.6 10.0 8.1 8.4

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

5.2 5.5 5.4 5.2 3.5 3.5

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

198

208

225 219 220

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

9.4 9.4 9.2 7.4 7.2

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

10.5 11.8 13.2 13 13 14

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

Pakistan

Ring spinning : Decline and stagnation

Page 5: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Textile investments

World installed rotor spinning capacity [mn rotors]: 2018

Ring spinning : Decline and stagnation

169 471

515

4'486

1,409

274

600

Africa North America South America Asia & Oceania

Eastern Europe Western Europe Europe Others

Year 2012

Total: 7’9mn

Source: ITMF

(‘000’ rotors) 151 407

536

5'592

277 132

800

Year 2018

Total: 7'9mn

Page 6: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Textile investments

North America Western Europe

Africa

Total Asia & Oceania

(incl. Pakistan, India, China, Vietnam)

South America

China

Eastern Europe

India

Turkey

Vietnam

Pakistan

51 51 72 72 72 72

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

65 63 62 62 62 63 61 56 56

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

35 35 34 32 43 45 33 33 33

101112131415161718

110 109 109 109 109

109 110 110 110

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

14 14 13 13 16 17 16 19 19

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

40 40 42 45 47 49 51 53 53

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

27 28 28 28 33 35 31 39 39

101112131415161718

588 620 657 712 760 800 850 884 951

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

53 55 55 66 66 66 147 147 133

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

2 2 2 2 7 10 9 9 9

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

855 884 921 1'021 1'046 1'074 1'178 1'247 1'417

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

World installed shuttle-less weaving capacity ‘000 mc’s]: 2018

Shuttle-less weaving and circular knitting : show recovery (1/2)

Page 7: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Textile investments

North America Western Europe

Africa

Total Asia & Oceania

(incl. Pakistan, India, China, Vietnam)

South America

China

Eastern Europe

India

Turkey

Vietnam

Pakistan

6 5 4 4 3 4

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

7 8 8 8 9 8 8 7 7

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

6 5 4 4 4 4 4 4 5

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

3 3 3 3 4 4 4 5 6

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

9 10 10 10 10 11 11 10 11

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

1 1.2 1.2 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.4 1.8 2.3

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

143 162 188 212 212 204 196 189 201

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

9 10 11 12 13 16 19 23 25

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

2 2 2 2 3 4 5 7 9

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

188 208 235 262 267 263 261 262 284

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18

World installed circular capacity [‘000 mc’s]: 2018

Shuttle-less weaving and circular knitting : show recovery (2/2)

Page 8: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Textile investments

80% companies

recognise

upgradation of

technology as a

priority

Key stimuli:

• Quality

• Resource

efficiency

• Sustainability

Key challenges:

• Lack of finance

• High cost of

borrowing (20% pa)

• Skills deficit

• Enabling

environment

Scope

• Spinning

• Weaving/Knitting

• Finishing

• Confection

1 2

4 3

Significant potential for upgradation of technology across the production

chain from spinning to processing and garment making (2/2)

Source: ITC

Page 9: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Textile investments

Significant potential for upgradation of technology across the production

chain from spinning to processing and garment making (2/2)

Age Africa % Asia %

Spinning < 10 Years 23 50

> 10 Years 76 50

Weaving < 10 Years 50 70

> 10 Years 50 30

Source: ITMF

Degree of technological obsolescence

NB:112 out of 190 existing industrial T&C companies in 5 East African countries surveyed

(Ethiopia,Kenya,Tanzania,Uganda,Rwanda)

Page 10: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Textile & Apparel trade

Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit

Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn

Source: Comtrade

* All 54 countries in Africa Continent

HS Codes: 50 to 63

14.8 17.2 18.1

26.5

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

2010 2018

T&C Exports T&C Imports

CAGR: Textile= 4%

Clothing= 8%

CAGR: Textile= 1%

Clothing= 3%

Page 11: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

New investment initiatives

Investment of € 1.25 bn

to modernize Egypt’s

T&A industry

announced at ITMA

Barcelona 2019

Projects worth $ 500 mn

announced at SICOT

2020, Koudougou,

Burkina Faso

• Ghana investment summit

to attract FDI in textile

industry

• Wuxi No. 1 inaugurates $ 200

mn spinning project in

Diredawa,Ethiopia. Phase 1

includes 100,000 spindles of

total 300,000 spindles

• Made in Africa Inc

acquires Vlisco Group with

a $ 190 mn Afriexim Bank

facility

Rivatex Kenya

upgraded with

capex of $ 29

mn

Page 12: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Opportunities and risks

+

-

Trend

• Preferential market access to US/EU

• Interest of international buyers to diversify sourcing

• Large regional/domestic market

• Abundant manpower and land

• Raw material supply(Cotton) availability

• Incentives

• Upcoming industrial zones

• Enabling environment

• Cost of doing business

• Infrastructure

• Logistics

• Skills & Productivity

• Socio-cultural issues

Opportunities in Africa are apparent however challenges must be understood

Page 13: Africa‘s T&A Sector€¦ · Africa’s global textile & clothing trade at US$ 43 bn shows a growing deficit Africa: Textile & Clothing trade deficit: US$ Bn Source: Comtrade * All

Thank you!

Consultants to the Industry since 1929 …………….present in Africa