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INTRODUCTIONAnglo French Textiles (AFT) is one of the leading

composite textiles mills in South India.

It was established in the year 1898 in collaborationwith the British government and the Frenchgovernment.

Today it is the flagship industry at Pondicherry,

employing around 3000 workmen and staff.

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There are three branches of the mill

A UnitComprising of spinning, sizing, weaving, processing and

packing - started in 1898.Area = 25.40 acres

B UnitComprising of modern Automatic looms and Grey inspection

warehouse started in 1970.Area = 11.98 acres

C UnitComprising of spinning and wider width shuttle less looms

started in 1988.Area = 13.22 acres

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LOOMS

TYPE OF LOOMS

Non-Automatic Plain/Drill

Automatic HowaHeavy Duty Picanol

Picanol Dobby

Ruti 'C' Type

Projectile

LOOM WIDTH

40" to 84"

44" to 60"48" to 111"

48" to 79"

71" to 110"

130" to 154"

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SPINNING

BALE COTTON WEIGHING TESTING

MIXING BLOW ROOM (LAP) CARDING (CARDED SLIVER) DRAWING-I PASSAGE (BREAKER) DRAWING-II PASSAGE (FINI SHER) (DRAWING SLIVER)

SPEED FRAME (ROVING) RING YARN IN COPS CONE WINDING (WARP AND WEFT)

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PROCESSES IN BLOWROOM

1. Bale Breaking

2. Super cotton cleaner

3. Porcupine beating

4. Cotton opener (vertical beater) 5. Dust chamber with grid bars

6. Double opener (two bladed beaters)

BALE BEAKER: 2 MACHINES

(3 persons per shift of 8 hrs) PRODUCTION RATE: 2200 kg/3men/8hrs

MACHINE MAKE: Platt. Bros and co.ltd

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CARDING

During this process a web is formed which is converted intocarded SLIVER which is rolled onto a spring placed in acan.

MACHINE MAKE: Platt Bros. and co. ltd. (A unit)SPEED: semi low speed

NUMBER OF MACHINES: 45

CAN CAPACITY: 16kg

MACHINE MAKE: Lakshmi graf (C unit).

SPEED: 22 rpm (semi high speed)


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DRAW FRAME

The parallelization of fibers and the blend of several SLIVERS into oneobtaining a uniform SLIVER where the output is combed SLIVER.

MACHINE MAKE: platt Bros. and co. ltd.(A unit)

SPEED: semi low speed


CAN CAPACITY: 16kg

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SPEED FRAME

In this process the thickness of the fibre is reduced to thin strandscalled bobbins and the length is increased in the drafting zone withrelatively high speed.

A light twist is imparted to the fibres and compact packing is done inthe form of bobbins producing 120 bobbins per machine.

8Lakshmi L F 1400 A, 4 platt bros. &co.england& 1 lakshmi reitermachines are involved in this process.

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RING FRAME

The roving, on bobbin, is placed in the speed frame whereit passes through three types of roller called top roller,middle roller and front roller running at successively higher

rates of speed and is finally drawn out to yarn of desiredthickness.

This is the final stage where 3 types of machines are used.

14 machines of Platt bros. and co. ltd. With 400 spindle permachine (A unit).

9 machines of Lakshmi Reiter with 432 spindle permachine.(C unit).

20 machines of NMM with 400 spindles per machine.

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PREPARATORY TO WEAVING CONE WINDING

(WARP CONES)

WARPING(WARPER'S BEAM)

SIZING(WEAVERS BEAM)

DRAWING-IN(DRAW BEAM)

WARP

LOOMS

GREY CLOTH

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WARPING In warping 400-500 cones are kept in creel and are drawn to a

cylindrical drum called weaver beam and length of 6000-20,000 yardsof yarn is rolled and then send for sizing. Warping is done according tothe number of ends.

MACHINE MAKE: Allen ,Kaluamoto


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SIZING

To apply (size) starch, gum etc to the warp sheet or warp yarn to increase thestrength of warp yarn to withstand the strain during weaving on the loom.

It is applied on the surface of the warp with the help of high temperature andpressure.CHEMICALS USED FOR SIZING

WATER CAUSTIC SODA FABROOF MAIZE WELTEC PLASTOSIZE PAP SOAP RAN XL(C) R BIND (PS2) BINDER (PA 505) P.V.A (for polyesters)

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WEAVING PROCESSES

SHADING

Raising of specific yarn by the means ofthe heddle frame

PICKINGInsertion of the filling or weft yarn

BEAT

UP

Reed pushing the filling yarn

Close, against the woven fabric.

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PRINTINGROTARY SCREEN PRINTING Rotary screen-printing machine is an improved version of

printing the main advantage of these machines is more amountof cloth can be printed in less time.

PREPARATION OF ROTARY SCREEN Rotary screen is made of nickel-perforated screen. This screen is heat set on curling chamber at 160C for about one

hour.

DIMENSIONS OF ROTARY SCREEN

Circumference = 642 mm Length = 1750mm, 2530mm, 2590mm, 2650mm.

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PRINTINGFLAT BED SCREEN PRINTINGMATERIALS AND CHEMICALS REQUIRED FOR FLAT BED SCREEN PRINTING

Metal screen (of size 48x80) Nylon bloating cloth (monofilament 140, 120, 100 mesh) poly vinyl alcohol (PVA) ammonium bi chromate cello coat adhesive kerosene(thickener) titanium di oxide or white poster color(used as optical brightener) doctor blade for coating the screen

stretching machine used for making the screens at proper tension exposing machine used to expose designs on the screens lacquer with drawing machine is used to withdraw the unwanted lacquer from the screen screen drier machine to dry the screen

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DYEINGDYEING OF COTTON FABRICS WITH VAT DYES JIGGER MATERIAL NEUTRALIZED WITH CH3COOH

PAD THE MATERIAL WITH VAT DYE IN PADDING

TRANSFER THE MATERIAL FROM PM TO JIGGER

20-25 LITRES DYE SOLUTION IS TAKEN TO JIGGER

ADD 10-15 LITRES NAOH AT R.TEMP.

ADD 1 KGS HYDROSE AT 50-70C IN 2 INSTALLMENTS

WORK THE MATERIAL FOR TWO ROUNDS

OXIDATION

SOAPING

COLD WASH

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FINISHING

Depending on the end use, the various finishes like stiff and softfinishing are given to the fabric.

STIFF FINISHING

The chemicals used are either anilose starch or polyvinyl acetate or polyvinyl alcohol. There four stenters used namely, famatex, narrow widthartos and two wide width artos. For the dyed fabrics stiff finishing isgiven with the help of only anilose starch.

SOFT FINISHING The chemicals used are aminose silicon or poly ethylene emulsion and

the machines used are famatex and wide width artos. PRODUCTION RATE: 15000 metres/8 hours SPEED: 30 40 meters/min

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QUALITY ASSURANCEWeighing - machine make: ADVENTURER

Strength of yarn - machine make: EUREKA

Variation of yarn Unevenness percentage to find the unevenness of

SLIVER, roving and yarn. The machine used isevenness tester and machine make is: ET 2000s PLUS

Thin and thick places Neps (white particles)

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Thank you

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