ah owners notes v9.0 050121 - san juan sailing

All Heart OWNER’S NOTES

WELCOME ABOARD!

(Updated April, 2022)

Thank you for choosing All Heart for your charter! We are pleased to share her with you. If you enjoy cruising as much as we do, we know you want a clean, safe, reliable boat that you will enjoy for your charter. We are confident All Heart will exceed your expectations.

All Heart is a 2006 34’ PDQ “PowerCat” with twin 100 HP Yanmar diesel engines. She offers comfortable accommodations, economical performance and a pleasing ride. She’s designed for cruising with a spacious salon, a large galley, a high visibility flybridge, plenty of storage, two queen size staterooms, a head with a walk-in shower and a 4-person dinghy with a 5hp Honda outboard.

When you charter with San Juan Sailing/Yachting, you are indirectly connected to boat owners like us. Unlike most boat charter companies, these boat owners are involved. We work closely with the staff, with the cleaning crews and with our Maintenance Pro to fulfill our year-round maintenance program. We make repairs and invest in improvements to keep our boat up-to-date, safe and enjoyable for cruising. And, we are responsible for providing you with these “Owners Notes” on how to operate our boat. This is our way of making a connection with you… our charter guest.

Our aim is to make cruising on All Heart an outstanding experience for everyone. We appreciate feedback and would love to hear if our “Notes” and the condition of our boat helped make your cruise a success.

Best Wishes, Mac & Penny Carter

Email: [email protected]

All Heart Owner’s Notes - Ver 9.3 Updated: 4/19/22


TABLE OF CONTENTS (with page #’s)

Welcome Aboard! ............................................................................................1Table of Contents (with page #’s) ......................................................................2Notes to the Skipper ........................................................................................3

1. Vessel Informa/on and Specifica/ons ............................................42. Thru-hull Fi=ngs, ForeDeck lockers, Deck inlets .............................53. Boat Nuances ..................................................................................64. Emergency Equipment & Procedures (MUST READ sec/on) ..........75. Emergency Procedures (MUST READ sec/on) ................................86. Tips to Keep All Heart In Great Shape .............................................9

Boat Handling Skills ........................................................................................107. Engines – Star/ng, Stopping, Cruising Speed ................................108. Close quarters Maneuvering & handling Rough Water .................119. Charts, Tides & Currents, Water Hazards, Flags & S/ckers ...........1110. Anchoring – Anchors & Rode, Scope, Bridle, Deployment ............1211. Anchoring – With a Stern Tie Line .................................................1512. Anchoring – Raising Anchor & Depar/ng ......................................1613. Dinghy – Launching .......................................................................1714. Dinghy – Hois/ng & Securing ........................................................1815. Dinghy – Opera/ng Outboard .......................................................1916. Docking – Dock Lines, Fenders, Connec/ng to Shore Power ........2017. Mooring To & Depar/ng From a Mooring Ball ..............................22

Boat Systems ..................................................................................................2318. Electrical System – AC & DC Panels ...............................................2319. Electrical System – Power Management, Baceries & Charging ....2720. Electronics – Helms, Instruments, VHF Radio ...............................3021. Electronics – Garmin Naviga/on System .......................................3122. Engines – Rou/ne Maintenance ...................................................3723. Filling Fuel Tanks (Diesel & Gasoline) ............................................3924. Fresh Water System ......................................................................4025. Hea/ng Interior Interior ................................................................4126. Sanita/on System – How to Avoid Clogs & Empty the Tank .........42

AccommodaOons, Entertainment, Flybridge, Galley, Windows, Other Gear ....4527. Accommoda/ons ..........................................................................4528. Entertainment ...............................................................................4629. Flybridge – LP Tanks, Grilling, Windshield, Sunscreens .................4630. Galley – Food Storage, Cooking & Trash .......................................4931. Windows, Portholes, Curtains & Condensa/on ............................5132. Other Useful Gear .........................................................................5233. Kayaks ...........................................................................................52

Appendix .......................................................................................................53A. Engine Spaces vs. compartments & blowers ................................53B. Accessing the Full Engine Spaces ..................................................54C. Hydraulic Rudder Realignment Procedure ...................................55D. Servicing a Racor fuel filter ...........................................................55E. Tools, Supplies & Spare Parts ........................................................56F. Transferring fuel between tanks ...................................................57G. Two Essen/al Boa/ng Knots .........................................................58H. Windlass – Controlled Free-fall & Manual Anchor Recovery ........58



NOTES TO THE SKIPPER

Greetings Skipper!

As long time boaters, we fully respect the responsibility a Skipper carries for the safety of their crew and the vessel. We presume you are an experienced boater knowledgeable about Coast Guard maritime rules and regulations and have the skills to safely operate a 34’ twin screw, multi-hull motor vessel.

These “Owner’s Notes” are not meant to be a substitute for boating knowledge, experience or exercising good judgment. However, we believe a well designed “User” guide can make a big difference toward having a safe and relaxing cruise.

We designed our “Notes” to be a resource for you AND your crew. Charter boat skippers need a clear overview of the handling characteristics, systems nuances, and procedures for how to operate the boat. And your crew (spouse, siblings, friends, parents, teenagers, etc.) often need and appreciate practical guidelines on how to assist in typical boating activities… navigation, docking, mooring and anchoring come to mind.

We encourage you to “study” and share this guide with your crew in advance of your charter. We're confident the time you invest will help make your checkout easier and your charter a memorable experience for your entire crew.

With Respect,

Mac & Penny Carter



1. VESSEL INFORMATION AND SPECIFICATIONS VESSEL INFORMATION

• Year/Brand: 2006 PDQ Powercat 34 (Built by PDQ Yachts, Toronto Canada) • Owners: Mac & Penny Carter… Currents Northwest LLC (cell: 360-393-9255) • Hull ID: QPQMV098C606 (MV-98) • Hailing Port: Squalicum Harbor, Bellingham, WA • Maintenance Pro: Epic Yacht Services – Edana Long; cell: (360) 366-8929

DOCUMENTATION • Coast Guard Cer/ficate of Documenta/on #: 1185153 • VHF/AIS Vessel Iden/ty MMSI #: 367777390… programmed into main VHF radio • US Customs & Border Protec/on Vessel Decal… on sliding glass entry door • WA State Vessel Registra/on: #12349 on the hull near both bows • WA State Annual Dept of Revenue #: on the outside of both hulls near the bow • WA State Parks Annual Moorage Permit Decal: on outside of the PORT hull near transom steps

SPECIFICATIONS • Length Over All: 34' 2”; Beam: 16’ 10”; Drao: 2’6” loaded • Displacement: ~ 18,000 lbs. with fuel, water, 4 people, supplies, food & baggage • Engines: Two 100 HP Yanmar 4JH3-HTE Turbo Diesel engines • Alternators: Port - 165 amp high capacity (Balmar); Starboard - 80 amp (Hitachi) • Diesel Fuel Tanks (2): Combined Total = 184 gals (Main Tank - 114 gals + Aux. Tank - 70 gals) • Electronics: Two Garmin Chartplocers, Depth Sounders, AIS, GPS, Radar, Wind and Autopilot • VHF Radio: iCom 504 (lower helm); remote mic (flybridge); floa/ng handheld • Audio: West Marine 4000 AM/FM/Bluetooth • Start Baceries: two 12V Group 24 AGM’s • House Baceries: 4-130 amp Crown AGM’s (520 max amp hrs)… 260 USEABLE AMPS • Charger / Inverter: Victron 2000 wac Mul/Plus Compact • Solar panel: 280 wacs with Victron solar controller • AC/DC Power: 30 amps 110V AC / 12V DC • Power Outlets: 9-110V outlets; 10-USB outlets; 4-12V outlets • Cruising range: 350 to 550 Nau/cal Miles depending on speed & condi/ons • Cruising Speed: 1800-2800 RPM (6-13 knots); Max Speed: 3,000 RPM • Dinghy: 9’5” Highfield UL290 w/2 oars; aluminum hull; max. capacity is 4 adults or 880 lbs. • Outboard: 5 HP Honda with built-in 1.5 Liter (0.4 gal.) gas tank and 1.25 gal extra fuel container • Galley Cooktop & BBQ Grill: both operate on LP gas • Water Tanks – 86 Gals total (Main tank = 80 gals; Ao Hot Water tank = 6 gals) • Holding tank: 35 gals. • Number of berths: 2 queen size beds; salon table can convert to a bed (max. 225 lb. limit) • Number of heads: 1 with walk-in shower & electric fresh water toilet • Windlass: Lewmar Pro 1000… Working Load Limit: 250 lbs.; Pulling Load Limit: 1000 lbs. • Primary Anchor: 33 lb Rocna with 465’ rode (325’ chain + 140’ line); total weight = 565 lbs. • Backup Anchor: 26 lb. Danforth with 155’ rode (25’ chain + 130’ line); total weight = 105 lbs.



2. THRU-HULL FITTINGS, FOREDECK LOCKERS, DECK INLETS COLOR CODES:

Thru-Hull Fi=ngs (8) Holding Tank Dock Pumpout Outlet (1) Diesel Fuel Fill Inlets (2) Salt Water Washdown Outlet (1) Fresh Water Fill Inlet (1)

✴ NOTE: Both Engine Raw Water thru-hull valves and the Salt Water Washdown Intake thru-hull valve are ALWAYS LEFT OPEN.


AUX DIESEL TANK

FILL INLET

PORT DEPTH SOUNDER &

SPEED WHEEL THRU-

HULL

STBD DEPTH SOUNDER

HOLDING TANK

DISCHARGE THRU-HULL

SALT WATER WASHDOWN

INTAKE THRU-HULL

HOLDING TANK DOCK PUMPOUT OUTLET

FRESH WATER

FILL INLET

STBD ENGINE RAW WATER THRU-HULL

MAIN DIESEL TANK

FILL INLETPROP SHAFT

DRIPLESS THRU-HULL

SALT WATER WASHDOWN

OUTLET

PORT ENGINE RAW WATER THRU-HULL

PROP SHAFT

DRIPLESS THRU-HULL


3. BOAT NUANCES ENGINE IGNITION KEYS & TACHOMETERS

Both engines are started and stopped with the igni/on keys at LOWER Helm. (The keys at the Flybridge Helm only provide power to the tachometers.)

ENGINE RAW WATER THRU-HULL VALVES The raw water cooling system thru-hull valves for the engines are always kept OPEN. These valves are located in the bilge area behind each engine (underneath the berth).

FUEL CONSUMPTION When star/ng with a FULL tank, the fuel tank gauge needle may not begin to decline for 1-2 days.

FULLY SECURE DINGHY WHEN UNDERWAY For safety, the dinghy must be fully secured to avoid over-loading the davit structure when underway. Please follow the procedure in “Dinghy – Hois,ng & Securing”.

HOT WATER Fresh water can be heated 3 ways: 1) Shore power; 2) Port engine; or 3) switching ON the Webasto hea/ng system. See “Hea,ng Fresh Water” sec/on for details.

MANAGING BATTERY POWER House bacery bank has 250 “Useable” Amp Hours. Average cruising consump/on is about 125 amps per day. Use the BlueSea Bacery Monitor to track power consump/on and charging.

• CHARGING – House baceries need to be charged about every 2 days. On sunny days, the solar output may extend this to 3 days. Shore power is the fastest and most efficient way to charge the baceries. Underway, the PORT engine charges the baceries, but slowly.

• WHEN ON SHORE POWER – Keep the Victron Inverter/Charger toggle switch on “Charger Only” to ensure the baceries are protected and get charged.

• WHEN OFF SHORE POWER – Keep the Victron Inverter/Charger toggle switch on “Charger Only” EXCEPT when AC outlets are needed; then flip switch to “ON” for inverter mode.

MANEUVERING AT SLOW SPEED Under 3 knots, rudders have minimal influence on steering. Rely on the two throcle/gear levers for slow speed maneuvering (e.g., docking, anchoring, mooring, etc.). Be paOent… go slow; allow the boat’s momentum to do the work. AVOID micro-managing the throcles.

OPERATING SAFELY IN ROUGH WATER Opera/ng in choppy, short frequency waves (or wakes) over 3’ can be challenging and uncomfortable. AVOID head-on or beam-on waves. To find a safe ride, slow down and head into larger wave pacerns at a 45º angle.

REFRIGERATOR / FREEZER Keep the Refrigerator breaker ON 24/7 or the freezer will defrost and leak water in the galley.

RUDDER ALIGNMENT PROCESS The two hydraulic rudders gradually become slightly misaligned aoer 15-20 hours of opera/on. This is normal; not a sign of a leak. However, it slowly makes steering harder. For mul/-week charters, we advise performing the “Hydraulic Rudder Realignment” procedure once a week. See Appendix.

TACHOMETER VARIANCE HELM TO HELM The two Flybridge engine tachometers register 200 RPM’s LESS than the Lower Helm tachometers. That means 2800 RPM at the Flybridge helm equals max speed at the Lower Helm: 3000 RPM.



4. EMERGENCY EQUIPMENT & PROCEDURES (MUST READ SECTION) SAFETY EQUIPMENT & LOCATION

• Type III Adult Lifejackets – 4 self infla/ng vest style PFD’s (in stateroom lockers) and 4 standard vest style PFD’s plus 3 flota/on cushions (in flybridge seat locker).

• Dinghy with 5 HP Outboard – Mounted on davits at stern; carries up to 4 adults or 880 lbs. • FlotaOon Life Ring – mounted on flybridge railing near entrance door. • Throwable “Life sling” Rescue System – on rail at starboard transom steps • Flares (LED & pyrotechnic), Air Horn, Distress Flag - white mesh bag at entry door. • Portable FloaOng VHF Handheld Radio – in compartment behind chart table. • Boat Horn – black bucon at both helm sta/ons. • First Aid Kit – in hallway cabinet before entering the Head. • Wood Thru-Hull Plugs – located at each below water line thru-hull fi=ng • Manual Water Pump – 4’ long water pump with flexible 6’ hose stored in Deck Locker 4 • Radar Reflector – in ao flybridge seat locker • LP Gas Control Switch – in galley next to microwave… controls LP gas solenoid valve. • 3 A/B/C FIRE EXTINGUISHERS – in galley, behind head door, and on

deck next to flybridge ladder… effec/ve for the 4 common classes of fires: trash, wood, paper, flammable liquids and electrical.

• 3 Smoke Alarms – in the ceiling in each berth and in the salon • 2 Carbon Monoxide Detectors – behind both berth doors • 1 Clean Agent Halon Fire ExOnguisher – a 5 lb. “one-,me use” single purpose

ex/nguisher mounted on wall by STARBOARD berth door. It is to be used ONLY to suffocate an engine room fire (it depletes oxygen). Its short s/ff hose is used to penetrate the 2” fire port plas/c membrane on the front of either engine compartment cover.

BILGE & ENGINE ALARMS There are iden/cal “BILGE” alarm panels at each helm. They will alert you IF there is a MAJOR ENGINE ISSUE that could endanger the boat and crew. The alarms are VERY LOUD and sound at both helm panels. A Bilge High Water alarm indicates excessive water has entered the bilge area AFT of the engine. An Exhaust High Temperature alarm indicates over hea/ng in the engine’s sea water coolant system where it exits the engine.

WHAT TO DO IF AN ALARM SOUNDS: • IMMEDIATELY SHUT DOWN THE AFFECTED ENGINE. DO NOT RESTART

that engine un/l the source of the alarm is under control. • FOR A HIGH EXHAUST TEMPERATURE ALARM: Verify IF there is a fire in the engine compartment. • FOR A BILGE HIGH WATER ALARM: Verify the 2 bilge pump switches at the Lower Helm are set to

AUTO. Then locate and resolve the source of water that triggered the alarm. ✴ TIP: To silence an alarm… push the “MUTE” button at the LOWER helm panel FIRST; then push the MUTE

button at the FLYBRIDGE helm panel. ✴ WARNING: The MUTE button will only silence a Bilge High Water alarm temporarily. The alarm will

trigger again and again until water in the bilge is reduced to less than 1.5”.

FOR SAFETY, PLEASE DO NOT PHYSICALLY DISABLE EITHER ALARM PANEL!



5. EMERGENCY PROCEDURES (MUST READ SECTION) BOAT IN DISTRESS (STRUCK ROCK, HIT LOG, RAN AGROUND, ETC.)

• IF NO WATER IS NOT ENTERING THE BOAT AND NO ONE IS IN DANGER… Call San Juan Sailing/Yach/ng at 1-360-671-4300. Describe the incident and if you are able to proceed to the nearest harbor where a professional diver can inspect the hulls, props & rudders before proceeding.

• IF WATER IS ENTERING THE BOAT… IMMEDIATELY verify the 2 bilge pump switches at lower helm are set to AUTO. Pull berth bedding away and look in the AFT bilge area behind both engines to locate the source and velocity of the leak. The bilge pumps should turn ON automa/cally if water exceeds 2” deep. If the pumps are not ON, turn them ON manually at the lower helm.

• IF LOSS OF LIFE OR LOSS OF VESSEL IS IMMINENT… 1. Tap SOS bumon on chartplomer – Select SOS type. The screen will show the exact wording for

making an emergency VHF radio call to the Coast Guard. 2. Push the RED distress bumon on the VHF radio at the lower helm. Call the Coast Guard on

VHF Ch 16 declaring: “MAYDAY, MAYDAY, MAYDAY… motor vessel All Heart calling the Coast Guard”. Provide your situa/on; boat size, color & type; # of people onboard, any injuries, loca/on and GPS coordinates (displayed on the main VHF radio and on both chartplocers). You can also call the U.S. Coast Guard at: 1 (360) 378-4141, or 911 (U.S. and Canada).

3. EVACUATION… If you must evacuate the boat, get your crew into life jackets and on deck. Take the portable VHF radio and mesh bag with horn & flares with you. Launch the dinghy.

MAN OVERBOARD – “MOB” • IMMEDIATELY throw a PFD, life ring or flota/on cushion to the person in the water and assign one

crew member to con/nually watch and point at the overboard person and loudly communicate their posi/on to everyone onboard.

• QUICKLY mark a MOB waypoint on the chartplocer… Tap the SOS bucon. Select SOS type – Man Overboard. Choose “Navigate to this MOB?” If you need the Autopilot to create a course back to the MOB loca/on. This will engage the autopilot to steer back to the MOB loca/on. The screen will also provide the exact wording for an emergency VHF radio call to the Coast Guard.

• MOTOR BACK to rescue the person in the water. Use the swim ladder (Port side) or Life Sling (Starboard side) to retrieve them at the transom steps. BE SURE TO TURN BOTH ENGINES OFF WHEN RESCUING A PERSON AT THE STERN. ✴ TIP: Real MOB rescues are stressful. We highly recommend practicing a MOB drill with your crew at the

beginning of your trip so everyone is clear about what to do BEFORE life saving skills are needed. ✴ NOTE: To delete a MOB waypoint: select Info > User Data > Waypoints; select MOB waypoint > Review >

Delete.

ENGINE ROOM FIRE 1. GET RED 5 LB. HALON EXTINGUISHER – MOUNTED ON WALL BY

STARBOARD BERTH DOOR. 2. DO NOT OPEN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT COVER! 3. HOLD EXTINGUISHER UPRIGHT; SHOVE NOZZLE THROUGH

FIRE PORT AT FRONT OF ENGINE COVER AND FULLY DISCHARGE IT.

✴ WARNING: In the unlikely event of a diesel engine fire, use ONLY this Halon extinguisher to stop the fire (it depletes oxygen). DO NOT use an A-B-C type extinguisher! They contain dry chemicals that are extremely difficult to clean up and can render the engine inoperable.



6. TIPS TO KEEP ALL HEART IN GREAT SHAPE NO SMOKING INSIDE OR OUTSIDE (ALL SMOKING PRODUCTS)

San Juan Yach/ng’s policy is NO SMOKING inside any of their fleet boats. Our boat’s policy is: NO SMOKING OF ANY KIND INSIDE OR OUTSIDE. We and other charter guests who are sensi/ve to smoke sincerely appreciate and thank you for honoring this policy when you are on our boat.

SHORE SHOES: CLEAN OR REMOVE Shore shoes pick up lots of /ny stones, grit & grime that increases wear and tear on the interior of the boat. PLEASE use the door mat to wipe the bocom of your shoes before entering the salon. A shoe brush is available as you enter the salon door.

PREVENT MILDEW: HANG WET GEAR TO DRY Mildew tends to grow really fast around here. If a lifejacket, canvas cover or the flag is wet or even damp, please hang it up where fresh air circulates un/l it’s completely dry. Even slight moisture in an enclosed locker can start mildew growing within 24 hours.

SWAB THE DECK EACH MORNING It is common to see a heavy layer of wet dew on the deck each morning. We recommend using the mop (stored next to entry door) to swab the deck to help it dry faster and reduce the chance of injury from slipping. It also helps reduce dirt and wetness from entering the boat.

REGULAR HOUSE CLEANING Everyone likes a “clean” house. It helps to clean up dirt, grease and food par/cles in the galley, salon and flybridge (especially aoer using the BBQ grill). Regular cleaning around the toilet also helps a lot. A small dust pan & brush and cleaning supplies are stored under the galley sink. A broom is stored in Deck Locker 4. A shop vac is stored under the starboard salon seat (use only on shore AC power).

WASH DOWN ANCHOR CHAIN Use the SALTWATER washdown hose at the bow to thoroughly wash mud and marine debris off the anchor chain (and deck) BEFORE it goes into the chain locker. Not doing so can result in foul odors in the chain locker (which is located directly in front of the salon dining table).

CLOSE DOOR, WINDOWS & PORTHOLES WHEN ENGINES ARE RUNNING Diesel engines are smelly and generate exhaust soot when running. You can minimize exhaust smell and soot in the cabin by keeping the entry door and all windows and portholes closed when star/ng and running the engines.

DIESEL ENGINES BENEFIT FROM FREQUENT RUNS AT HIGH SPEED Diesel engines run much more efficiently at higher RPM’s. At slow RPM’s, they waste fuel and build up carbon in the cylinders and exhaust system. This reduces engine performance. Our Yanmar pro recommends running the engines at 3000 RPM underway for at least 30 minutes twice a week as condi/ons permit. The heat generated reduces carbon buildup and improves fuel efficiency. ✴ NOTE: Please allow the engines to fully warm up BEFORE running at high RPM’s… AND please run them at

LOWER RPM’s for 15 minutes BEFORE shutting them down.HOSE DOWN DECKS AND FLYBRIDGE WINDSHIELD

When available, please use fresh water at marinas to reduce the dirt, bird poop and salt crystals that accumulate on nearly all surfaces, especially the flybridge windshield.

THANKS! WE REALLY APPRECIATE YOUR HELP BY FOLLOWING THESE GUIDELINES!



BOAT HANDLING SKILLS

7. ENGINES – STARTING, STOPPING, CRUISING SPEED HIGHLIGHTS

• Twin 100 HP Yanmar turbo diesel engines under each berth. There are instrument panels for both engines at both helms. The throcle/gear levers must be in NEUTRAL to start the engines.

• Both engines are started and stopped ONLY with the igni/on keys at LOWER Helm. Prehea/ng is NOT required. Leave the keys in the panels.

• The lower helm panels shows RPM’s, water temp, oil pressure and two fuel gauges (main & auxiliary tanks). The Flybridge helm engine panels show only RPM’s.

• Conduct daily inspec/on of both engines (when COOL) before star/ng. See Quick Start Guide. • Both engine raw water seacocks are located behind the engines and are ALWAYS LEFT OPEN. • Run engines at 3000 RPM underway for at least 30 minutes twice a week as condi/ons permit to

reduce carbon buildup, lower emissions and improve fuel efficiency. STARTING & STOPPING THE ENGINES

The engines are started AND stopped only at the LOWER helm. The Flybridge helm keys only provide power to the tachometers. Ensure both throcle/gear levers are in NEUTRAL. No “pre-heat” is needed. 1. START – Turn the igni/on keys in panel above the wheel briefly

to “START”… Let go as soon as you hear the engine catch. 2. CHECK if cooling water is cycling out of the port & starboard

exhausts. It usually also comes out /ny an/-syphon ports on the hull near each engine. ✴ NOTE: Please allow the engines to warm up for 5 mins. at low RPM’s before accelerating to higher RPM’s..

3. STOP: With the throcle/gear levers in NEUTRAL, push and hold the BLACK STOP bucon (with RED circle) un/l the low oil pressure alarm sounds; THEN turn the igni/on key to OFF. ✴ NOTE: Leave both ignition keys in both helm control panels all of the time.

CRUISING SPEED, RANGE & FUEL ECONOMY A loaded PDQ will cruise at 7-10 knots in flat water (1600-2600 rpm) with good fuel economy (1.5-2.5 N. MPG). Assuming 130 useable gallons of fuel, the cruising range is about 325-500 nau/cal miles depending on speed, weight and wind/water condi/ons. • NORMAL CRUISING: 1600-2600 RPM

(7-9 knots) • HIGH SPEED CRUISING: 2600-2800 RPM

(10-12 knots) • MAX SPEED: 2800 RPM @ Flybridge Helm…

or 3000 RPM @ Lower Helm… PLEASE DO NOT EXCEED

✴ NOTE: The Flybridge tachometers register 200 RPM’s LESS than the Lower Helm tachometers.



8. CLOSE QUARTERS MANEUVERING & HANDLING ROUGH WATER MANEUVERING IN CLOSE QUARTERS

With a light hull, shallow drao and two 100 HP turbo diesel engines, All Heart is a powerful, highly maneuverable vessel. She responds well to gradual accelera/on, but can over-react to sudden, aggressive accelera/on. She can be easily rotated in a /ght 360º circle. In close quarters, like docking or mooring, all maneuvering should be done from the flybridge for becer visibility and communica/on. At under 3 knots, the wheel has minimal influence, so you should steer almost en/rely with the two throcle/gear shio levers. And, the “sail” effect of wind over 10 knots can make docking more challenging… you will need to be more deliberate. IN GENERAL… GO SLOW; BE PATIENT; AVOID MICRO-MANAGING THE ENGINES; ALLOW THE BOAT’S MOMENTUM TO DO THE WORK; IF AT FIRST YOU DON’T SUCCEED, BACK OFF AND TRY AGAIN. ✴ STEERING TIP: A simple way to remember what each throttle lever does… with both hands

ON the levers, stick your thumbs out — each thumb points in the direction that throttle will move the boat in forward AND reverse.

✴ NOTE: The RUDDER POSITION INDICATOR is on the Autopilot panel. ✴ CAUTION: Shift slowly with a short pause in neutral. Aggressive shifting can damage the

transmissions. OPERATING IN ROUGH WATER

Our twin shallow drao hulls run smoothly through calm water, light wind and mild “choppy” water up to about 3 feet. In short interval waves over 3’, common in our area, several things start to happen. First, waves converge and “smack” the bocom of boat. It won't hurt the boat, but it is jarring. Second, heading directly into waves over 3’ produces an uncomfortable “rocking horse” effect. Third, taking large beam-on waves can produce a very uncomfortable side-to-side heeling dynamic. This vessel is NOT designed to run fast in rough water. Our recommenda/on is to NOT operate in wind over 20 knots or waves over 4 feet. The safest strategy in rough condi/ons is to anchor in a safe loca/on and wait for becer condi/ons. However, if you must travel in rough water… • SLOW down and CUT across the biggest wave pacern at a 45º angle. • AVOID beam-on waves or plowing into waves head-on. • SEEK calmer water along the “lee shore” of a land mass.

9. CHARTS, TIDES & CURRENTS, WATER HAZARDS, FLAGS & STICKERS NOAA CHARTS

NOAA Naviga/on Charts for the San Juan Islands (#18421) and Gulf Islands (#3441, 3442, 3443) are provided in a tube behind the lower helm seat. The Maptech chartbook for the San Juan Islands is marked to show the most common DANGER areas in RED. SAFE areas are marked in GREEN. A parallel rule, dividers, hand held compass, and pencils are also provided. Various books on naviga/on, /des & currents, and cruising des/na/ons are in a bin behind Helm seat. A list of these charts and books can be found in our Inventory document.

TIDES & CURRENTS Being aware of /des and especially currents is essen/al for safe cruising in the Pacific Northwest. Strong 3-4+ knot currents and 8-12 o. /de swings are common. In addi/on to the books on /des and currents, this informa/on is easy to access on our Garmin Chartplocer. See “Shortcuts” in the Electronics – Garmin NavigaOon System sec/on.



WATER HAZARDS The most common source of boat incidents is a “distracted driver”… losing focus on your surroundings and unexpectedly encountering a hazard. These hazards include: • Rocks & reefs – when opera/ng near land, rou/nely ZOOM IN on the

chartplocer to spot hazards not visible when zoomed out. • Logs, chunks of lumber and crab pot floats are very common. Some

are easy to spot; others are darker and HARDER TO SPOT. • Tugs pulling barges – barges can be pushed or towed by a long cable

(mostly under water). It’s best to stay away from them. • Ferries, cruise ships, tankers, cargo ships – Big ferries and large ships move

surprisingly fast in main traffic channels… up to 18+ knots! • Commercial fishing & crabbing boats – common… they ooen travel fast. • Bull kelp and clusters of eel grass – can clog the salt water cooling system,

tangle a prop and cause engines to overheat. FLAGS & U.S. CUSTOMS STICKER

The U.S. flag should be mounted on the stern when opera/ng in U.S. and Canadian waters. There is also a small Canadian flag in the upper cabinet behind the chart table. It is considered a courtesy to fly it on the short BOW flag staff when opera/ng in Canada. Our U.S. Customs & Border Protec/on s/cker (with permit number) is mounted on the sliding glass entry door to the salon.

10. ANCHORING – ANCHORS & RODE, SCOPE, BRIDLE, DEPLOYMENT HIGHLIGHTS

• Primary anchor rode: 465’ of total rode (325’ chain + 140’ nylon Line) • Decide on scope based on weather, /de increase and water depth • Select spot… drop anchor, deploy rode, acach bridle, then set anchor (Bridle lines should carry

FULL weight of anchor on bow cleats… (the hook should be 5-7’ underwater) • When raising anchor, use salt water wash-down hose to clean debris off chain and anchor

ANCHORS Primary Anchor – 33 lb Rocna with 465 o. of TOTAl RODE… (325 o. of 5/16” chain plus 140 o. of 5/8” 3-strand nylon line). It is raised and lowered by a Lewmar Pro windlass. Anchor chain marker codes: • At 100’, 200’ & 300’ – 6’ of YELLOW line woven into chain + 2 YELLOW zip /es • At each 25’ mark = 2 BLUE zip Oes • At each 50’ mark = 2 ORANGE zip Oes • At each 75’ mark = 2 PINK zip Oes • At end of CHAIN = 10’ of RED paint • At end of NYLON LINE – 20’ of RED paint (line is secured to the boat

inside anchor locker) ✴ NOTE: This chain marking legend is mounted inside the Deck Locker 3 hatch lid.

Backup Anchor – 26 lb. Danforth with 155 o. of TOTAl RODE (25 o. of chain + 130 o. of nylon line). The anchor and rode (in a 5 gal. bucket) is stored in Deck Locker 1. To use, lio the bucket out of locker first (it is heavy); then lio the anchor out. Deploy the anchor chain through the bow roller and secure the line to the CENTER deck cleat. The backup anchor line has 10’ of RED paint on the bicer end. Note there are no length markers on the backup anchor’s nylon line.



DETERMINING SCOPE In the Pacific Northwest, we typically anchor in shallow, protected bays 15’- 40’ deep at high /de with a rocky or mud bocom. “SCOPE” is defined as the ra/o of the length of anchor rode to the distance from sea bocom to bow roller. Since it is common to see strong currents, 8-12 o. /de swings and occasional 2-4’ minus /des, we use a 4:1 scope for normal condiOons and a 5:1 or 6:1 scope in windy condiOons (+20 knots). Here’s how we calculate scope… 1. First, check the weather report (usually WX Ch 4 or 7) and decide on anchor scope appropriate

for your local condi/ons… 4:1, 5:1, 6:1? 2. Second, determine expected TIDE INCREASE – expected water depth at HIGH TIDE minus your

current depth). Tide info is found in the “Ports & Passes” book OR on our Garmin Chartplocers. 3. Third, calculate the amount of anchor rode to deploy… FORMULA: Current depth + Tide

increase + Distance from depth sounder to bow roller x Desired scope. Two examples: • CALM CONDITIONS (4:1 raOo): 20’ (current depth) + 7’ (/de increase) + 8’ (sounder to bow

roller) = 35’ X 4 (scope) = 140 t. of ANCHOR RODE • WINDY/STORMY CONDITIONS (6:1 scope): 17’ (current depth) + 5’ (/de increase) +

8’ (sounder to bow roller) = 30’ X 6 (scope) = 180’ of ANCHOR RODE DEPLOYING ANCHOR & BRIDLE LINE

Although our Lewmar Pro windlass has a 1,000 lb. Max. Pulling Limit, it is surprisingly easy for an 18,000 lb. boat to exceed this limit and burn out a windlass motor. If the windlass is damaged, the anchor must be raised and lowered by hand… a VERY HARD TASK. Hence the need for a strong bridle. Our Mantus Bridle has a locking chain hook acached to two very strong lines that acach to the port and starboard bow cleats. The goal is to set the anchor with the FULL WEIGHT of the rode on the two bridle lines and no load on the windlass. 1. HELM: Plan ahead. Check weather for winds and the chart for depth and

obstruc/ons. Decide on scope, drop spot and length of rode. Circle your drop spot for bocom depth consistency. When anchored, the boat should have room to “swing” – at least 3 boat lengths from other boats. If you plan to use the Stern Tie, choose a drop spot so your STERN will be 50-75’ from the shoreline… and there will be at least 8’ of water under the boat at LOW TIDE.

2. MATE: Get the Mantus Bridle Line in blue bag in Deck Locker 3. Secure the two bridle lines to the port & starboard bow inside cleats so each line’s RED whipping mark is at the cleat. (The whipping mark is at the top of the middle sec/on of black canvas on each line.) This will put the bridle hook the ideal distance from the bow – under water about 15’ out from bow. For extra safety, secure the “eye” on each line to the outer cleat on each bow. Park the bridle hook over the front rail to be acached to the chain later.



2. MATE: Release and set aside the RED anchor snubbing line. Remove bow roller lock pin. Then, get the Windlass Remote Control ready (stored in white holster in deck locker 3). Test it. If it does not work, verify the yellow hinged arm on the windlass breaker at lower helm is in the UP posi/on. ✴ NOTE: The windlass breaker “arm” should always be locked in the UP

position so the windlass can be used quickly in an emergency. 3. HELM: Cruise around your anchor spot to get a sense of any depth changes and the space for

swinging room. Then maneuver up to your drop spot facing into the wind. When ready, tell your mate to drop anchor. When the anchor hits bocom, start moving the boat slowly in reverse downwind so the chain does not pile up on the bocom.

4. MATE: Con/nue paying out chain. Communicate each length marker loud and clear to the HELM. STOP when the desired scope is reached.

5. MATE: Amach the bridle hook. Bring the hook under bow rail and lock it onto the chain about 3’ back and lock the hook. Then use the remote to pay chain while manually guiding the hook through the bow roller. Pay out enough chain so the ENTIRE WEIGHT of the anchor rode is on the two bridle lines. The chain should be hanging down slack from the bow roller with NO weight pulling on the windlass.

6. HELM: With the full weight of the anchor rode on the bridle

lines, SET the anchor by GRADUALLY increasing power in REVERSE to 900 RPM on both engines. Avoid being aggressive. Going slow allows the anchor to “bite” into the seabed. As the chain stretches taut under water, watch nearby fixed objects on land or other boats for ONE MINUTE to confirm the anchor is not dragging. If the anchor drags, raise it and repeat the process un/l the anchor no longer drags. Add more scope if needed. When done, turn the engines and electronics OFF and cover the helm.

THE RESULT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS…

✴ SAFETY TIP: Keep checking the boat’s position vs. the shoreline for the first hour or so to verify the anchor is holding.



11. ANCHORING – WITH A STERN TIE LINE It’s common to add a stern /e for safety in crowded anchorages or when raoing with other boats. A stern /e restricts the boat’s movement so more boats can anchor safely in close proximity. Our Stern Tie rig is a customized reel designed to be hung on the Port transom rail. It has 300 t. of ⅝” green floa/ng polypropylene line and is easy to deploy and retrieve. Here’s how to deploy it: 1. HELM: Plan ahead for a stern /e. Based on the amount of rode you plan to deploy, es/mate

where you need to drop the anchor so boat’s stern will end up about 50-75 t from shore when the anchor is SET. Be sure the water depth below the stern will be at least 8’ at LOW TIDE.

2. MATE: Get stern /e reel from Deck Locker 1. Acach its 4 padded snap-on clamps to the TOP and BOTTOM handrails next to the ao seat at the PORT transom steps. Acach the Swivel Snap Hook on the reel’s backboard to the metal hook loop at the top of the handrail. Get the dinghy ready to deploy.

3. HELM & MATE: Proceed to deploy and set the anchor while aiming the stern at a shore target – a /e ring or a big, dead tree or log. If the boat’s stern ends up more than 100’ from shore, either pay out more scope or reset the anchor to posi/on the stern closer to shore.

4. HELM – Hold the boat steady with the stern aimed at the shore target while your MATE takes the /e line to shore in the dinghy.

5. MATE: Use the dinghy to take the line to shore. Wrap it once through a /e ring or around big log. Avoid a live tree or an object with a rough edge that could chafe the line. Be sure the line will flow through or around the object so it will be easy to /ghten and retrieve from the boat. Then row the tail end of the line back to the boat. ✴ TIP: It’s easier and safer to ROW the line to shore vs. starting the outboard motor and chance tangling the tie

line in the prop. 6. MATE: Secure the incoming line to the large cleat at the top of the Port transom steps. Wind the

slack outgoing line back onto the reel. Then, by hand, pull the outgoing line in further un/l there is equal tension on both legs of the /e line. Secure the outgoing line (from the reel) to the smaller cleat on the Port transom ledge (under the berth window). Make sure there is NO load on the reel. ✴ TIP: The two stern tie line “legs” should be EVEN in length and taut above the water at LOW TIDE… and

RELAXED… just touching the water at HIGH TIDE. For windy conditions. be sure the line is taut at High Tide. 7. HELM: Check the stern /e line tension periodically during the day and evening. Adjust the line

tension IN or OUT as condi/ons change.



12. ANCHORING – RAISING ANCHOR & DEPARTING Assuming you have planned your day, done a Quick Engine Check, prepped both helms, secured the dinghy, have the Electronics, Instruments and VHF radio ON.… here’s how to depart an anchorage.

PREPARE TO RAISE ANCHOR 1. HELM: Does everyone on deck have their PFD on? Close the salon door and any open windows.

With throcle/gearshio levers in NEUTRAL, START both engines. Check for water exi/ng the port & starboard exhausts. Allow 3-5 mins. for the engines to warm up.

2. MATE: 1) Verify DC “Washdown Pump” breaker is OFF and verify Washdown Thru-Hull Valve is OPEN (under floorboard in head). 2) Get the 15’ gray salt water hose from Deck Locker 3, insert its twist-to-lock fi=ng into the salt water hose outlet on deck next to Deck Locker 4 and firmly twist the fi=ng to fully seat it. 3) Go inside and turn the DC “Washdown Pump” breaker ON; then test for pressurized water at the hose nozzle. 4) Get the Windlass Remote Control out of Deck Locker 3 and test it. If a stern Oe line was deployed… release the line from the stern cleats and reel it in. Secure the wet line to the reel and allow it to drip dry while acached to the rail. (Once the anchor is raised, remember to STOW the reel in the bin in Deck Locker 1 BEFORE ge=ng underway.)

DETACH THE BRIDLE 3. HELM: When ready to raise anchor, move the boat forward enough to take

the load OFF the bridle lines so your mate can raise the chain to detach it. 4. MATE: Once the load is OFF the bridle lines, use the windlass remote to raise

the chain and manually guide the bridle hook through the bow roller. Now detach the Bridle hook, release the two Bridle lines and set the bridle aside.

RAISE THE ANCHOR 5. MATE: Once the bridle is detached, use hand or voice signals to direct the

helm toward the anchor’s loca/on and start retrieving the anchor chain. Use the washdown hose to thoroughly clean mud and debris off the chain BEFORE it goes into the chain locker. DO NOT USE THE WINDLASS TO PULL THE BOAT FORWARD.

6. HELM & MATE: When the boat is over the anchor’s loca/on, take up the slack in the chain and then slowly rotate the boat… use its weight to gently pull on the anchor from different direc/ons to gradually free the anchor. If the windlass sounds like it is straining, STOP. DO NOT TRY TO FORCE THE ANCHOR LOOSE WITH THE WINDLASS. ✴ TIP: If the windlass gypsy wheel “slips”, use the Lewmar wrench to tighten it a bit. (It is stored on a hook

behind the remote control holster in Locker 3.) 7. MATE: When the anchor is raised and all the mud is hosed away,

replace the Lock Pin in the 2nd hole from front of the bow roller. Acach the RED snubber line to the anchor chain and secure it to the center deck cleat. Finish with the chain relaxed in the deck channel so it is not a “trip” danger on the deck. ✴ TIP: Wiggling the anchor shank allows the Lock Pin to slip into the 2nd

hole on the bow roller. 8. MATE: Finally, turn the Washdown Pump breaker OFF at the DC

panel. Release the water pressure at the hose. Then detach, drain and coil the hose and store it in Deck Locker 3. Stuff the bridle line back in its Blue storage bag and put it and the windlass remote in Deck Locker 3.



13. DINGHY – LAUNCHING HIGHLIGHTS

• 9’5” Highfield UL290 dinghy w/2 oars; max. capacity = 4 adults / 880 pounds; plus 15’ floa/ng bow line and 75’ floa/ng line for securing dinghy at a beach

• 5hp Honda outboard with internal 1.5 Liter fuel tank (up to 40 minutes of open throcle) plus a 1.25 gal extra fuel container

• Do NOT store equipment in dinghy or climb into it when hoisted on davits. • The dinghy must be fully secured to the boat to avoid dynamic movement while underway.

PRE-LAUNCH PREP • Check for bailing scoop, drain plug, 2 oars, and 75’ yellow floa/ng line. • Verify outboard’s built-in fuel tank is FULL and the extra fuel tank is secure.

LAUNCHING DINGHY (DON’T FORGET TO INSERT THE DRAIN PLUG!) Launching the dinghy is easy if 2 people work together – one at the BOW and the other at the STERN: 1. BOW: Detach the WHITE /e-down line from the dinghy’s bow; secure it to the davit structure.

Loosen the GREEN bow line at the transom cleat, but leave it acached to the cleat so the dinghy won’t float away when you lower it. Detach the RED crossing line from the BOW hoist harness and park it by flipping it over the ao seat backrest.

2. STERN: Use the AFT hoist line to raise the stern enough to detach the BLUE /e-down line; secure it to the davit structure. Insert & lock the DRAIN PLUG. Detach the YELLOW crossing line from the AFT hoist harness… flip it over the ao seat backrest. ✴ TIP: Reduce the tension on the RED and YELLOW crossing lines when you release or attach them by

pushing the dinghy to port or starboard. 3. STERN: SLOWLY let out both hoist lines to gradually lower the dinghy to the water. Maintain

control of the lines so the outboard PROP does NOT hit the hull.



4. Before loading the dinghy, verify the 3 air chambers are firmly inflated. If more air is needed, use the FOOT PUMP (stored in Flybridge ao seat locker.) Acach the Outboard Extension handle if desired (stored on shelf behind lower helm). Load the dinghy, detach & secure both hoist lines.

5. Start the motor. Once it is running, release the GREEN bow line and proceed on your way. Please go SLOW at first to allow the engine to WARM UP before accelera/ng. And, remember, mari/me law requires that everyone in a dinghy wear a PFD.

14. DINGHY – HOISTING & SECURING The davit structure is designed to carry ONLY the staOc weight of the dinghy and outboard in “normal” water condiOons. It is NOT designed to handle excessive weight or DYNAMIC LOADING (amplified side-to-side and fore-at movement). The PDQ manufacturer warns:

“Extreme caution should be taken to fully secure the dinghy to the boat to ensure there is NO dynamic movement of the dinghy when underway. Failure to properly secure the dinghy could result in davit failure.”

We take this warning seriously and ask you to do so too. PLEASE follow the procedure below to SECURE THE DINGHY TO THE BOAT while underway. It may appear to be a bit complicated here, but once you see the process, we’re confident you’ll find it’s easy AND makes sense. ✴ CAUTION: It is NOT safe to tow the dinghy behind this boat… the water flow from the two props converges to

create a turbulence that can flip a towed dinghy and tangle the line in a prop.

HIGHLIGHTS • Posi/on dinghy with bow pointed to the STARBOARD side of boat. • Hoist dinghy with BLACK davit block & tackle lines, pull the drain plug and acach the 4 preset

color-coded /e-down lines as described. • Finish with the BOW as high as possible and pulled firmly toward boat’s starboard transom. The

STERN should be slightly lower to allow water to drain. • Secure the hoist lines to the davit structure so they will not fall in the water near the props.

HOISTING & SECURING THE DINGHY This process is easy if 2 people work together – one at the dinghy’s BOW and the other at the STERN. 1. STERN: Posi/on the dinghy with its BOW facing the starboard transom steps. Shut down the

motor, close the fuel valve lever and turn the air VENT knob fully clockwise to CLOSED posi/on. Acach the two BLACK davit hoist line carabiners to the dinghy’s bow and stern hoist harnesses.

2. STERN: Using the BLACK hoist lines, raise the dinghy about 3 /4, pull out the DRAIN PLUG and acach the BLUE /e-down line to port transom hook point. Then RAISE THE BOW all the way and LOWER THE STERN enough so the BLUE line is taut carrying its share of the dinghy’s stern weight.

3. BOW: Push the dinghy to port and acach the RED crossing line to the BOW hoist harness ring. Then pull the bow toward the boat’s stern and clip the preset WHITE /e-down line to the dinghy’s bow carabiner. Then acach the dinghy’s GREEN bow line firmly to the starboard transom cleat. (Secure the rest of the bow line to the davit structure so it will NOT fall into the water.)

4. STERN: Push the dinghy to starboard and acach the YELLOW crossing line to the STERN hoist harness. (The YELLOW line should be BELOW the RED line.).

5. STERN: Rotate the outboard motor so the front points away from the boat’s stern and secure the two BLACK hoist lines to the davit structure so they cannot fall into the water. ✴ REQUEST: Please do NOT adjust the length of any of the preset tie-down lines used to secure the

dinghy (unless they come loose).



15. DINGHY – OPERATING OUTBOARD STARTING THE OUTBOARD MOTOR

The throcle is a twist grip control for star/ng and accelera/ng. 1. Verify the RED stop engine CLIP is clipped into the stop SWITCH (the engine will not start without

it). Check for gas in the motor’s 1.5 Liter tank – add gas if needed and /ghten the fill cap. TWIST the AIR VENT KNOB fully counter-clockwise to OPEN the vent. Then OPEN the FUEL VALVE LEVER (it’s in front of gearshio lever – it points OUTWARD when open).

2. TO START A COLD ENGINE: With the gearshio lever in NEUTRAL, pull the choke all the way OUT, and set throcle grip to START. Pull the starter rope grip lightly un/l you feel resistance, then pull it… 1-3 easy pulls should start the motor. (It take 6-8 pulls if there was no gas in carburetor.)

3. TO START A WARM ENGINE: Leave the choke IN, put gearshio lever in NEUTRAL, set throcle grip to START and pull the starter rope grip lightly un/l you feel resistance… 1 or 2 easy pulls should start the motor. Try NOT to let the handle snap back to the engine.

4. VERIFY water is streaming out the small port at the back of the motor shat. 5. CHECK if the OIL PRESSURE LIGHT at front of engine is GREEN (normal). A RED light means LOW

oil pressure – the engine will slow down to prevent harm to the motor un/l the issue is resolved. 6. ALLOW the engine to warm up and gradually push the choke knob IN and proceed. Use the

tension screw on the handle to /ghten the throcle grip when underway. STOPPING THE OUTBOARD

If you are temporarily docking the dinghy, PUSH the RED stop switch bucon ONCE to stop the engine. If you are hois/ng and securing the dinghy, turn the FUEL VALVE LEVER OFF and allow the engine to run in neutral at low speed to consume the fuel in the carburetor. Finally, turn the AIR VENT KNOB fully clockwise to the CLOSED posi/on (to prevent water ge=ng in). ✴ CAUTION: Before tilting the motor UP, turn the FUEL VALVE LEVER OFF…

otherwise, fuel will drip out of the carburetor. TROUBLESHOOTING THE OUTBOARD

Is the red safety clip in place? Is there gas in the built-in tank? Is fuel valve lever turned ON? (a common oversight.). Is the fill cap vent knob in OPEN posi/on? (Also a common oversight.). Is the choke knob pulled out before star/ng? Tried it half way out? Was it pushed in too soon? Is the oil pressure light RED? If it s/ll won’t run or runs rough, suspect contaminated gas. Call San Juan YachOng for advice.

OUTBOARD & DINGHY CARE The most common issue with outboard motors is water in the fuel. If the air vent knob on the gas tank cap is leo OPEN, water can seep into the fuel tank. If this happens, the motor will run “raggedly” or NOT at all. This not only stops the motor, but can damage the carburetor. The way to prevent water from entering the fuel tank is simple… CLOSE THE AIR VENT KNOB ON THE GAS CAP when not using the motor.



16. DOCKING – DOCK LINES, FENDERS, CONNECTING TO SHORE POWER HIGHLIGHTS

• 5 cylinder and 2 ball fenders; 6 braided BLUE dock lines… 2 x 15’, 2 x 25’ and 2 x 35’ • Setup fenders and dock lines well in advance • Maneuver boat slowly toward dock or into slip… starboard /e is preferred • Secure short STERN line 1st; BOW line 2nd; and two SPRING lines last

DOCK LINES There are 6 braided BLUE dock lines. These lines have color-coded “whipping” on the “bicer” end to iden/fy their length. We normally use 15’ lines at the Bow and Stern, and two 25’ or 35’ lines for spring lines. The whipping colors are as follows: • 15 t BLUE dock lines: WHITE • 25 t BLUE dock lines: GREEN & WHITE • 35 t BLUE dock lines: RED & WHITE

✴ This color legend is posted inside Deck Locker 3 hatch. FENDERS

There are 5 cylinder fenders and 2 ball fenders for docking. Normally, we /e 1 ball fender at the bow and 3 cylinder fenders evenly spaced along the dockside rail. Some/mes, if we will need to pivot the boat from the STERN when depar/ng, we add the 2nd ball fender at the transom steps to protect the stern from hi=ng the dock. If there is a boat docked adjacent to ours, we put 2 cylinder fenders on the “rub rail“ on that side. There is also an ORANGE “roving” fender for fending off pilings, boats, etc.

DOCKING PROCEDURE Plan ahead with your crew to an/cipate how to deal with wind, current, other boats, pilings, cleat loca/on, bull rail, etc. Ask the marina for a Starboard Tie — visibility from the flybridge is far becer on that side. Here is our docking process: 1. MATE: Before approaching the dock, posi/on a ball fender CLOSE TO THE BOW and 3 cylinder

fenders above the water at the height of the dock. Drape the Bow & Spring dock lines over rail so they are easy to grab from the dock (but will NOT fall into the water). If needed, acach two opposite side fenders higher so they cover the “rub rail”. Then standby at the starboard transom steps with the Stern line in hand. ✴ CAUTION: Do NOT tie a fender on the PORT rail over the Webasto heating system exhaust outlet. The

exhaust can melt a fender line. The outlet’s location is marked on the railing and deck 10’ back from the bow. 2. HELM: Approach the dock SLOWLY at about a 25º angle. Stop as the bow ball fender touches the

dock. Slowly rotate the stern toward the dock so your deck mate can step onto the dock. Wait for your Mate to secure the Stern line before acemp/ng to pivot the bow toward the dock.

3. MATE: When you can, step onto the dock and QUICKLY secure the STERN line to the nearest cleat or Bull rail. Make this line as SHORT as possible.

4. HELM: Using the stern line as a PIVOT POINT, slowly rotate the bow INTO the dock (port engine in forward idle; starboard engine in reverse idle).

5. MATE: QUICKLY secure the BOW line. Then secure the two spring lines from the BOW and STERN cleats to dock cleats to limit forward or backward movement. Slide the bow BALL fender AFT so it has contact with the dock. Make any other adjustments needed to the dock lines and fenders.

6. HELM: Shut down engines, radio, electronics and cover the Flybridge helm.



CONNECTING TO SHORE POWER The final step in docking is connec/ng to 110v 30 amp AC shore power… common in most marinas. Our yellow 50’ 30 amp shore power cable is stowed coiled in Deck Locker 3. If needed, there is a second 50’ AC power cable stored in Deck Locker 4. Here’s our process: ✴ CAUTION: FOR SAFETY, NEVER MOVE A “LIVE” AC CABLE. 1. Verify the boat’s main “SHORE 1-30 AMPS” AC breaker is OFF before

connec/ng to shore power. THEN plug the AC cable FEMALE connector into the boat’s LOWER AC OUTLET (external starboard side of cabin). Tighten the black ring clockwise to secure it.

2. Take the MALE end of the AC cable to the dock’s 30 AMP AC power pedestal. Verify the dock breaker is OFF. Plug in & twist the connector ¼” clockwise to secure it. Turn the dock breaker ON. Be sure the cable is laid out cleanly so people walking by will not trip over it and knock it loose.

3. IMMEDIATELY CHECK for reverse polarity (faulty ground wire) at the boat’s main 120 Volt AC “SHORE 1 - 30 AMPS“ breaker (#1 below): • IF the GREEN light next to “SHORE 1 - 30 AMPS“ breaker is ON, the shore power connec/on is

OK and you can safely turn the main breaker ON. The “LINE VOLTAGE” meter should indicate 110-120 volts.

• IF the RED “Reverse Polarity” light below the “SHORE 1 - 30 AMPS“ breaker is ON, it means the shore connec/on is FAULTY and DANGEROUS… DO NOT TURN THE MAIN BREAKER ON. Report the issue to the harbor master and request a different slip.

4. On the DC panel, verify the double “Inverter/Charger" breaker (#3), "Bus B” AC outlet breakers (#4), and “Water Heater” breaker (#5) are all ON (see photo).

5. Confirm Victron Control Panel toggle switch is set to “Charger Only” (at side of lower helm) so the baceries will be charged

6. Confirm the Blue Sea Bamery Monitor’s amps arrow shows power is flowing INTO the house baceries. If not, troubleshoot un/l it is resolved.

7. At the DC panel, turn ON op/onal GREEN or YELLOW single dot breakers as needed.



17. MOORING TO & DEPARTING FROM A MOORING BALL There are many WA State Park campgrounds in Puget Sound that offer “first come, first served” mooring balls. Our Campground Permit (on hull near PORT transom steps) en/tles you free mooring. It’s a great way to “park” the boat.… and it protects marine life on the bocom from anchors.

OUR METHOD Our foredeck is high off the water. Trying to grab & lio a heavy mooring ball ring from our bow railing with a boathook and run lines through it is very hard and can be physically dangerous to the person doing the deck work. Our method is easier and safer. Like any mooring process, it requires boat maneuvering skills at the helm and line handling skills on deck.

MOORING LINES We use 2 WHITE 25’ 3-strand twisted lines specifically for mooring. They have an “eye” at one end and have color-coded whipping at both ends. One has BLUE “whipping”; the other has RED “whipping”. They are stored in Deck Locker 3. ✴ TIP: It’s best if the deck person directs the mooring process. They see everything as it happens whereas the helm

person has a limited view of what’s happening. ATTACHING TO A MOORING BALL

1. MATE: Get the boat hook and standby at the starboard transom steps with the tail end of each mooring line in your hand. As the boat approaches the mooring ball, communicate distance to the ball to the Helm.

2. HELM: Maneuver the boat so it is facing into the wind holding steady with the mooring ball 2-3’ off the starboard transom steps.

3. MATE: Grab the ball ring by hand or boathook and run the tail ends of both mooring lines ONCE through the ball ring… (ONLY ONCE!). Pull the two lines through the ring un/l the two ends of both lines are roughly equal in length.

4. MATE: Holding the two pairs of lines, walk the mooring ball to and around the Starboard bow. QUICKLY park the BLUE line tails under your foot or knee. ✴ TIP: Keep the two pairs of lines separated… BLUE in one hand; RED in the other hand. QUICKLY loop the RED line’s “eye” over the inner bow cleat. Leave 6-7’ of slack in the line and acach the other end of the RED line around the outer cleat. ✴ TIP: It is important to move QUICKLY when attaching the mooring lines to the bow cleats.

WIND and CURRENT can quickly complicate mooring by moving the boat away from or over the mooring ball.

5. HELM: Monitor your deck mate’s progress. As your mate walks the mooring ball forward, SLOWLY maneuver the boat backward while keeping it pointed into the wind. When the ball is in front of the boat, do your best to hold the boat in that posi/on so your mate can acach the lines to the bow cleats. This may be challenging since you can’t see the mooring ball very well from the flybridge. Ask your mate for guidance.

6. MATE: Take the two ends of the BLUE line to the PORT bow. QUICKLY loop the BLUE line’s eye over the inner Port bow cleat and acach the other end to the outer cleat on the Port bow. The mooring ball should now be loosely posiOoned in front of the boat

7. MATE: The last step is to adjust the RED and BLUE lines so the mooring ball is centered in front of the anchor with the two lines forming a TAUT “V” down to the ball.. meaning no slack. That’s it! You are now moored!



DEPARTING FROM A MOORING BALL Assuming you have planned your day, done a Quick Engine Check, prepped the boat, secured the dinghy, have the electronics and VHF radio ON, and see the BLUE C.O.G. vector line on the chartplocer.… here’s how to depart a mooring ball. 1. HELM: Close the salon door and any open windows. With throcle/gearshio levers in NEUTRAL,

START both engines. Check for water exi/ng the port & starboard exhausts. With the engines in neutral, allow 2-5 mins. for engines to warm up. Then maneuver the boat forward just enough to take the load OFF the mooring lines.

2. MATE: Release the end (without an “eye”) of either mooring line from its cleat and pull it through the mooring ball ring. Remove the “eye” from the cleat and set that line aside. Repeat the process with the other mooring line. Then let the Helm know the boat is “free” from the mooring ball. Lastly, coil and stow both lines in Deck Locker 3.

3. HELM: When both mooring lines are free of the ball, slowly back away un/l the ball is visible and proceed on your way.

BOAT SYSTEMS

18. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM – AC & DC PANELS GENERAL DESCRIPTION

Our boat’s electrical system is controlled by a large panel of circuit breakers that protect all of the electrical components on the boat. The panel is located on the forward side of the lower helm cabinet. It is divided into two parts: 12 VOLT DC and 120 VOLT AC. All of the breakers are coded with colored dots:

2 GREEN dots – Always ON 1 GREEN dot – ON for normal opera/ons 1 YELLOW dot – Op/onal 2 RED dots – Always OFF

✴ NOTE: Some breakers have a “breaker guard”. It signifies the breaker is important to boat operations and should be left as is – ALWAYS ON, ALWAYS OFF or ONLY ON TEMPORARILY for a specific purpose (like the Macerator Pump for legally discharging the holding tank in Canadian waters).



LOWER PANEL – 120V AC SYSTEM The lower breaker panel controls the 120 Volt AC electrical system. When connected to shore power and the main breaker is turned ON, all of the breakers in this panel can be powered.

(The #’s in the picture correspond with the defini/ons below.)

ESSENTIAL AC BREAKERS (WHEN CONNECTED TO SHORE POWER) 1. SHORE 1-30 AMPS: The boat’s MAIN AC breaker… when ON and connected to 30 amp 120v

shore power service, it supplies power to the boat’s en/re AC system through the other AC breakers. The main AC breaker will pop if total power consump/on gets close to 30 amps. The sum of Line 1 and Line 2 on the “LOAD CURRENT” meter represents the total AC amperage load. To reset the system, turn OFF all major load sources and cycle the main AC breaker. ✴ CAUTION: For safety, the “Shore 1-30 AMPS” breaker should be turned OFF before connecting or

disconnecting from shore power. ✴ WARNING: This breaker will likely “pop” if the AC load exceeds 20 AMPS on the Load Current meter. ✴ NOTE: The “SHORE 2-30 Amps” breaker is not used at all on this boat.

2. PARA BUS A+B: ALWAYS ON… supplies power to BUS A and BUS B breakers. 3. BUS A: ALWAYS ON…The double Inverter/Charger breaker supplies power to the Victron Inverter/

Charger unit that charges the baceries and filters power to all AC outlets on the boat. The other Bus A breakers are spares and are not used.

OPTIONAL AC BREAKERS 4. BUS B: Supplies AC power to all 10 of the boat’s GFCI protected AC outlets: Galley (2), Microwave

(1), under Salon Table (1), behind DVD Screen (1); Berths (2); Head (1); Lower helm shelf (1); and Flybridge (1). ✴ NOTE: These AC breakers can also be powered when OFF shore power by turning the Victron Inverter/

Charger panel toggle switch to “ON” (to invert DC battery power to AC power). 5. WATER HEATER: This breaker ONLY func/ons when the boat is connected to shore power. It heats

the water in the tank ao of the Port engine. It does NOT func/on off of bacery power.



UPPER PANEL – 12 VOLT DC SYSTEM The upper breaker panel controls the 12 Volt DC electrical system. All of the breakers in this panel are powered by the house bacery bank. (#’s in picture correspond with topic #’s below.)

ESSENTIAL DC BREAKERS There are 5 DC breakers with DOUBLE GREEN dots that are essen/al to boat opera/ons and should ALWAYS BE ON (4 have breaker guards). All other DC breakers are either: 1 GREEN dot (normally ON for opera/ons); 1 YELLOW dot (op/onal); or 2 RED dots (ALWAYS OFF). 1. MAIN 100 AMPS: This is the boat’s main DC breaker. It should ALWAYS be ON. 2. SUB PANEL: Supplies power to the DC SUB PANEL above the window at the lower helm… includes

breakers for all electronics. (See details on next page) 3. BILGE PUMP: Supplies power to the two bilge pump switches at the

lower helm. This breaker should be ALWAYS ON and both switches should ALWAYS be set to AUTO (so the bilge pumps ac/vate automa/cally if needed).

4. LOW VOLTAGE DISCONNECT: Supplies power to a Blue Sea Low Voltage Disconnect device mounted inside lower helm cabinet. It prevents excessive bacery deple/on that could permanently damage the house baceries.

5. REFRIGERATOR & EXHAUST FAN: Supplies power to the refrigerator and a quiet exhaust fan located behind it. This breaker should always be ON 24/7. If it is turned OFF, the freezer will defrost and leak water into the galley.

OPTIONAL DC BREAKERS • Other 12v Breakers: Engine Heat Fan, Cabin Lights, 12v/USB Flybridge, Stove, LP Gas, Macerator

Pump, Fresh Water Pump, Shower Pump, Washdown Pump, Fuel Transfer Pump, Electric Head, 12v/USB Berths/Engines/Galley.

• 12v Plug Outlets: 1 in each berth; 1 in galley (above sink); and 1 at flybridge helm. • USB charging outlets (10): each berth (2); under salon table (2 in AC outlet); Lower helm (2);

Flybridge helm (2). (The outlets at both helms are Fast Charging - 5V, 4.8A).



DC SUB PANEL (ABOVE SIDE WINDOW AT LOWER HELM) This PANEL is powered by the ALWAYS ON “SUB PANEL" breaker on the main DC panel. There are 3 sec/ons on this panel: 1. LEFT SIDE– 3 windshield wiper ON/OFF switches 2. CENTER PANEL – Breakers for Instruments, Electronics, GPS, AIS, VHF Radio, etc. (see below) 3. RIGHT SIDE – Main VHF radio (use its power bumon to turn radio ON and OFF).

CENTER SECTION IN SUB PANEL (#’S CORRESPOND TO PICTURE)

• “ALWAYS ON” Breakers: Boat Data (#4) – collects electrical & temperature data for boat maintenance; and #9 - AIS+GPS+VHF RADIO (combined for safety)

• “ON” AS NEEDED Breakers: #1 - Naviga/on Lights; #2 - Anchor Light; #3 - Exterior “Courtesy Lights”; #5 - Instruments; #6 - Wipers; #7 - Stereo; #8 - Electronics ✴ NOTE: Oddly, the breaker for the INTERIOR Courtesy Lights is located on the MAIN DC panel while the

breaker for the EXTERIOR Courtesy Lights is on this SUB PANEL.

VHF RADIO The main VHF radio at the SUB PANEL receives power from the “AIS+GPS+VHF RADIO” breaker (#9). For SAFETY, this breaker should ALWAYS BE ON. Besides the boat’s radio, it powers the AIS and GPS antennas. This ensures the radio will always have the boat’s current GPS coordinates and AIS loca/on in case a distress call is needed. The radio should always be turned ON and OFF using its POWER bumon (NOT the breaker). When the main radio is turned ON, the Flybridge remote corded radio also turns ON. Same in reverse… turning the remote radio OFF also turns the main radio OFF.



19. ELECTRICAL SYSTEM – POWER MANAGEMENT, BATTERIES & CHARGING Understanding how much bacery power is available for daily use and how to manage it effec/vely can have a huge influence on your cruising experience. Our system has devices that manage power supply, monitor power consump/on, charge baceries, protect the system, and invert DC bacery power to AC power.

HIGHLIGHTS • AGM Deep Cycle “House” bameries – 250 “USEABLE” AMP HOURS for daily opera-ons. • Victron 2000 Inverter/Charger – filters and stabilizes incoming AC shore power, manages charging

house baceries and inverts 12V DC to 120V AC power. • Blue Sea M2 Bamery Monitor – displays percent State-of-Charge and Voltage for the house and

start baceries. A separate Blue Sea Low Voltage Disconnect device protects the house baceries from excessive use that could permanently damage them.

• 3 Ways to Charge House Bameries: 1) shore power; 2) PORT engine alternator; and 3) solar panel. To charge baceries from shore power, AC panel Inverter/Charger double breaker must be ON AND the Victron control panel switch must be set to Charger Only.

• Charging Start Bameries – Each engine has its own start bacery. It is charged by shore power or their respec/ve engine alternator.

WHAT ARE “USEABLE” AMP HOURS? As you know, most boats have limited bacery power. The term, “Useable Amp Hours”, refers to the amount of stored energy in the house baceries available for daily ac/vi/es without damaging the baceries. Our AGM bacery bank offers 250 TOTAL USEABLE AMP HOURS for daily acOviOes. This is 50% of the total capacity of our house bacery bank (500 amps). As power consump/on gets close to 250 amps, the baceries must be charged. (Using the bameries beyond 50% of their total capacity will cause permanent damage to the bameries.) We es/mate “normal” cruising power consump/on on our boat is about 125 AMP HOURS PER DAY (half of the 250 Useable Amp Hours). With conserva/ve use of bacery power, you should be able to get 2 days of anchor Ome before needing to charge the baceries. On long sunny summer days, the solar panel output may extend the available amp hours to 3 days at anchor.

✴ CAUTION: HIGH power demand devices like the microwave, toaster and coffee maker are best used on SHORE POWER. They can be used on house batteries ONE AT A TIME… IF the battery bank is above 75% SOC (State of Charge) on the Blue Sea Monitor. Using more than ONE at a time can overload and trip the DC or AC breakers. Use of high demand devices can consume a substantial portion of your 250 Useable Amp Hours.



BEST PRACTICES FOR MANAGING BATTERY POWER Since managing bacery power on a cruise is such an important factor, we’d like to share the four “Best Bacery Management Prac/ces“ recommended by our Maintenance Pro. These prac/ces help maximize bacery performance and prolong the life of the baceries: 1. Ac,vely monitor the ba_ery bank’s SOC (State of Charge) on the Blue Sea Monitor. 2. Never deplete the House ba_eries below 55% State of Charge (or 12.2 volts). 3. Charge to at least 85% State of Charge in each charging cycle. 4. Charge the ba_eries to 100% SOC on shore power as ofen as possible.

VICTRON 2000 WATT 120V CHARGER/INVERTER This device manages the boat’s en/re electrical system. It safeguards the system from surges and ensures “clean” power. It is a large blue metal box mounted upside down in the ceiling of the ao storage cabinet in the Starboard berth. The box has a /ny ON/OFF rocker switch on its front panel – it should ALWAYS be “ON”. Avoid turning it OFF by mistake when storing gear in this cabinet. • VICTRON Charger/Inverter Control Panel is mounted on

side of the lower helm cabinet. It has a 3-posi/on toggle switch – CHARGER ONLY, OFF or ON (“ON” = inverter ON).

• WHEN ON SHORE POWER: Keep the toggle switch ALWAYS set to CHARGER ONLY. It ensures the baceries get charged and protects them from power surges or being drained if the shore cable is accidentally disconnected from the dock pedestal. (It happens!)

• WHEN OFF SHORE POWER: Keep the toggle switch ALWAYS set to “CHARGER ONLY”… EXCEPT when you actually need to use AC powered devices. Note the Inverter mode consumes 1.5 amps of bacery power whether or not AC devices are used. ✴ NOTE: To protect the batteries, the Charger/Inverter has an

internal Low Voltage “disconnect”. If it detects voltage below 11.9 volts for more than 30 seconds, it will shut the electrical system down. (30 secs. allows for normal startup surges from motors such as the refrigerator, water pump, Webasto heating system, etc.).

BLUE SEA SYSTEMS M2 BATTERY MONITOR This panel monitors bacery and power consump/on. It is mounted on the side of the lower helm cabinet. It shows voltage for the house and start baceries and amps flowing into or out of the house baceries. It shows the all important State-of-Charge (SOC) for the house baceries as a % of Total Amp Hours. When fully charged, the house baceries will show 100% SOC and about 13.2 volts. The lowest threshold SOC at which the house baceries MUST be charged is set at 55% and 12.2 volts. The picture shows the House baceries at 67% SOC, 13.17 volts and charging at a 34.7 Amp rate (the arrow points toward the bacery icon). The Port start bacery (lower leo) shows 13.31 volts. The Starboard start bacery (lower right) shows 13.32 volts. ✴ WARNING: This monitor has a LOW VOLTAGE ALARM that will trigger when the

House batteries get down to 60% SOC or 12.2 volts. This is a reminder to start charging the batteries SOON. This alarm may also trigger if high demand devices (Microwave, Toaster, etc.) are used when the batteries are below 75% SOC. (Instructions for turning the alarm OFF appear on the screen.)



BLUE SEA SYSTEMS “LOW VOLTAGE DISCONNECT” This device’s protects the house baceries from being damaged by excessive depleOon. Its only visible part is the “Override” rocker switch mounted at the side of lower helm cabinet. If a VERY LOW voltage condi/on is detected (11.9 volts), a BLINKING RED light ac/vates on the switch and ALL NON-CRITICAL DC ELECTRICAL DEVICES ARE AUTOMATICALLY SHUT DOWN. This includes: Fresh water pump, refrigerator, toilet pump, shower pump, washdown pump, stove & LP gas, macerator pump, fuel transfer pump, all interior 12v outlets and water / holding tank monitors. • CriOcal equipment such as engine igni/on, VHF radio, chartplocers and other naviga/on devices

will con/nue to operate. • To resolve a LOW Voltage condiOon, you MUST start charging the house bameries – connect to

shore power or run the PORT engine. Only then will disconnected equipment be re-connected. • Override Switch – If it is absolutely necessary to run a non-cri/cal DC device that has

been disconnected (e.g., the water pump and toilet pump), push the “Override” rocker switch. This allows 10 mins. of bacery use. Aoer that, all non-cri/cal devices will again be disconnected un/l bacery charging begins.

CHARGING HOUSE BATTERIES Assume you will need to charge the house bameries about every 2 days. Use the Blue Sea M2 Bacery Monitor as your guide. Typically, at anchor, you will see about a 20 point decline per day in the house bacery bank…for example, from 100% to 80% SOC (State of Charge) over 24 hours. Aoer one more day, the monitor will show about 60% SOC… that’s when you must start charging the bameries. There are 4 ways to charge the baceries… 1. Shore power – Connec/ng to 120v 30 amp marina power is the fastest and most effecOve way to

charge the house baceries. Be sure the Victron Inverter/Charger is set to “Charging Only” to ensure the baceries get charged. It should take about 15 hours to charge from 60% to 100%.

2. Port Engine Underway – The Port engine has a high capacity Balmar alternator. It automa/cally charges the house baceries when the boat is underway. It takes about 3-4 hours underway to charge the baceries from 65% to 85% SOC.

3. Solar panel – Our 280 wac solar panel will automa/cally send up to 15 amps per hour to the baceries on sunny days; less on cloudy days.

4. Port Engine at Anchor – Using the Port engine as a generator is the least desirable way to charge the baceries. It consumes fuel, generates noise, fumes and vibra/on, and is not good for the engine. But, it can be done, if necessary, by running the engine in NEUTRAL. Like charging underway, it will take 3-4 hours to charge the baceries from 65% to 85% SOC. Follow these steps: 1. Close the salon door & windows to keep diesel fumes out. With the PORT engine's throcle/

gear lever in NEUTRAL, start that engine. Verify cooling water is exi/ng the port exhaust. Then pull the port thromle/gear lever SHAFT out ½” at its pivot point (to disengage the transmission) and rotate the lever forward to accelerate the port engine to 1200 RPM.

2. Check the Blue Sea Bacery Monitor. The AMPS arrow should point toward the bacery icon indica/ng the baceries are charging. Run the engine at this speed un/l the baceries reach at least 85% SOC (State-of-Charge). ✴ NOTE: 1200 RPM is the optimal speed for charging the batteries. Higher RPM’s or running the Starboard

engine just consumes more fuel but does NOT increase charging rate. ✴ CAUTION: Running a diesel engine at slow RPM’s for long hours is NOT good for the engine. It builds up

carbon soot in the cylinders, cooling and exhaust systems. This reduces engine performance. Please AVOID using this method for charging if possible.

BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCHES



There are three RED bacery disconnect switches. All three switches must be ON all the /me to operate the boat. One is for the house bacery bank. The other two are for the engine start baceries. They are used primarily for maintenance… you should never need to use them. The house bacery switch is located at floor level on the starboard side of the salon entry steps. The engine start bacery switches are located at floor level behind the door to each berth.

20. ELECTRONICS – HELMS, INSTRUMENTS, VHF RADIO HIGHLIGHTS

• Two helm staOons with nearly iden/cal electronics and engine instruments. • “ELECTRONICS” breaker on DC SUB PANEL (above window at the lower helm) supplies power to

ALL naviga/on electronics (except GPS, AIS & VHF radio which are all on one separate breaker). • “INSTRUMENTS” breaker on DC SUB PANEL powers all engine instruments – tachometers, oil

pressure, temperature, fuel gauges, plus the helm USB charging outlet. • IgniOon keys at LOWER helm are used to start & stop the engines; the keys at flybridge Helm only

power the tachometers and should always be leo ON. Do not remove any of the keys. • For safety, the “GPS, AIS & VHF Radio” breaker on SUB PANEL should ALWAYS BE ON. • VHF radio is turned ON & OFF using its own power bucon. • “BOAT DATA” breaker should ALWAYS BE ON. It powers a small device that gathers and stores

maintenance data (engine temperature, amps and voltage, bacery status, etc.). LOWER HELM

The lower helm includes: Garmin 1242 touchscreen chartplocer with AIS, radar, magne/c compass, depth/speed/wind panel, auto-pilot panel, horn, VHF radio, 2 USB ports, fuel gauges, throcle/gear levers, bilge pump switches, exhaust temperature & high water alarm panel, Inverter/Charger control panel, Bacery monitor, Low Voltage Disconnect Override Switch, windlass breaker. The panel ABOVE the helm wheel includes: port and starboard engine control panels (igni/on, oil pressure & engine temperature) and the AM/FM/Bluetooth Radio.



FLYBRIDGE HELM The flybridge Helm also has a Garmin 1242 touchscreen chartplocer with AIS & Radar, magne/c compass, depth/speed/wind, auto-pilot, horn, two engine control panels, exhaust temperature and high water alarm, throcle/gear levers, corded VHF radio remote mic, and a 12V & 2 USB ports. All of the Garmin electronics are synchronized on a NMEA 2000 network. ✴ NOTE: Both helm seats can be moved forward or backward. Push the

tabs at the ends of the bar under the front of the seat to PORT to unlock the seat and slide it forward or backward.

MAIN ICOM VHF RADIO (LOWER HELM) Our iCom M504 VHF radio is located on the right side on the DC SUB PANEL above the window at the lower Helm. Push the radio’s POWER bucon to turn it ON and OFF (do NOT use the breaker to turn it On/Off). The boat’s GPS coordinates and our MMSI # (Mari/me Mobile Service Iden/ty) sta/on ID are programmed into the radio… they are used by the radio’s DSC feature (Digital Selec/ve Calling) to automa/cally iden/fy our boat and its GPS loca/on in an emergency call to the Coast Guard.

REMOTE CORDED VHF RADIO MIC (FLYBRIDGE HELM) A water-proof, corded remote iCom VHF radio mic is connected at the Flybridge Helm next to the wheel. Please do NOT disconnect this mic from the Flybridge. ✴ CAUTION: If this mic must be reconnected, be sure to TURN OFF the main VHF radio at the LOWER

Helm. Then gently align the remote mic’s connector pins with the outlet and gently tighten the locking collar. THEN turn the main radio ON. Failure to do this risks “frying” the main radio.

PORTABLE VHF RADIO A portable, waterproof, floa/ng West Marine VHF radio is stored in a bin in the cabinet above the chart table along with an AC bacery charger. It is useful for checking weather and communica/ng with other boats or crew members out in the dinghy.

21. ELECTRONICS – GARMIN NAVIGATION SYSTEM Our Garmin naviga/on system centers around two 12” networked 1242 XSV Touchscreen Chartplocers (one at each helm) and the Autopilot system. The screens are highly intui/ve, very responsive and sunlight-readable.

HIGHLIGHTS • The “ELECTRONICS” breaker on the DC SUB PANEL above window at the lower helm is used to

power ALL Garmin naviga/on electronics ON or OFF. (Note: GPS, AIS & VHF radio are powered together by a separate breaker on this SUB PANEL.)

• The naviga/on chart displays the boat’s geographic loca/on on the chart, AIS vessel icons and an op/onal radar overlay in a Split Screen mode.

• The sidebar on the Nav Chart screen displays the boat’s GPS coordinates, GPS speed-over-ground, speed-over-water, depth and water temperature. If a route exists, route status Info is displayed.

• Two smaller Garmin panels display: 1) Depth, Speed-over-water and wind; and 2) Autopilot controls.



FIRST… A WORD OF CAUTION ABOUT USING MARINE ELECTRONICS (MUST READ INFORMATION) We want to draw your acen/on to the ques/on: “What does it take to navigate safely using boat electronics”? San Juan Yach/ng (SJY) and our Garmin User manual offer sage wisdom. We advise taking these 3 cau/ons seriously. • SJY CauOon #1: Do not assume electronics can be trusted 100% for naviga,on. Doing so can lead

to a dangerous false sense of security. Electronic cartography is an evolving technology. Water hazard details, ferry routes, naviga/on aids, sand bars, etc. may be missing or inaccurate on the screen. And it is essen/al when near land to ZOOM IN on the screen periodically to reveal depth and hazard details that are NOT VISIBLE when zoomed out.

• SJY CauOon #2: The #1 source of boat damage insurance claims is a “DISTRACTED DRIVER”. Based on 35 years of boat charters, it is clear that “safe boa/ng” stems from “SituaOonal Awareness” at the helm and maintaining control of the boat. This means staying focused, aware of your loca/on, aware of what’s going on around you, and aware of nearby water hazards.

• Garmin's #1 CauOon: “You are responsible for the safe and prudent opera,on of your vessel. Our charts and Autopilot are tools that enhance your capability to operate your boat. They do not relieve you of responsibility for safely opera,ng your boat.”

GARMIN 1242 CHARTPLOTTER What follows are highlights from Garmin’s User Manual on how to operate the chartplocers and Autopilot. Included are our personal recommenda/ons on features we feel are helpful, safe and easy to use. Also included are some warnings to AVOID certain features that we feel are NOT SAFE or require training. A short version can be found in our Quick Start document. A full hard copy of the Garmin User manual is in the blue folder behind the lower helm. The manual can be also viewed on the chartplocer (select Op/ons> Info > Owner’s Manual > Open), OR download at: t.ly/1TjGS

SHORTCUTS • To power ON all electronics at both helms: turn ON

Electronics & Instruments breakers, and VHF Radio power bucon at Lower Helm DC SUB PANEL. To wake the flybridge chartplocer, press its power bucon once.

• To show Nav Chart: NAV Chart is the default screen at startup. A quick alterna/ve is a SPLIT SCREEN showing the NAV chart AND Radar chart overlay… tap either “Screen Toggle” bucon (next to HOME icon) to switch screens.

• Chart orientaOon: Select Op/ons > Naviga/on Chart Menu > Se=ngs > Map Orienta/on… choose North Up, Head Up or Course Up

• To show BLUE Course Over Ground (COG) + BLACK Heading vector lines: Op/ons > Naviga/on Chart Menu > Layers > My Vessel > Heading Line > select Source… COG and Heading

• To find boat: select Stop Panning bucon when it appears on any screen • To acOvate radar: Tap radar chart to reveal XMIT Off bucon in upper leo

corner – tap it to ac/vate radar overlay. (Be sure to deacOvate radar when not in use – Tap XMIT On)



• To delete all Waypoints, Routes or Tracks: Select Info > User Data > Delete User Data > Waypoints (or Routes or Tracks) > All

• To view Tides & Currents info: select Info > Tides & Currents (adjust for date and sta/on loca/on) • To mark MOB (Man Overboard) locaOon… select“SOS” in lower menubar; select MOB type… if

needed, choose “Navigate to this MOB?” to engage autopilot to steer back to MOB loca/on • To power OFF all electronics: Press either chartplocer’s Power bucon un/l progress bar fills. Turn

Electronics & Instruments breakers and VHF Radio power bucon OFF at DC SUB PANEL TOUCHSCREEN TIPS

• Tap screen to select item or create a waypoint • Drag or swipe one finger across screen to PAN or SCROLL • Zoom IN / Zoom OUT: Pinch two fingers together or spread apart; or use + / – bucons on screen • Display brightness: push the Power Bucon once; use Backlight scale to adjust brightness. • To clean screen: use clean synthe/c cloth & screen cleaning fluid (in cabinet behind chart table)

DEPTH SOUNDERS Depth sounders are accurate to about 400 feet. Below that depth (common in this area), sounders struggle to get a bocom return signal. They start blinking on/off, or show dashes, or show false shallow depth numbers. This odd behavior can surprise and confuse a helmsman by indica/ng the boat is suddenly in VERY SHALLOW water when it is s/ll in DEEP water. This is a good example of why it’s important to maintain a high level of “situa/onal awareness” when opera/ng the boat. All Heart has 2 sonar transducers – one in each hull. The PORT transducer data is displayed in the sidebar on the right side of the NAV Chart screen. The STARBOARD transducer data is displayed on the small Garmin panel directly behind each helm wheel. (Use the Up/Down arrows to toggle between Depth, Wind and GPS Speed-Over-Ground.) ✴ NOTE: Assume the hull depth is 3 feet for a fully loaded boat. The chartplotter depth alarm is set

to trigger at 6 feet. Also note it is normal to see a small difference in depth between the two transducers. Assume the lowest number is most accurate.

AIS (AUTOMATIC IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM) The purpose of AIS is to help boaters avoid collisions. It improves on radar’s range and line-of-sight limita/ons by providing a “satellite” down view to alert you to boat traffic over a wide area. You can see and track AIS vessel signals that cannot be seen in radar’s blind spots. AIS is required on all commercial vessels (ferries, tankers, tugs, etc.), however it is opOonal for other boats. Many fishing, crabbing and recrea/on boats do NOT yet have AIS. All San Juan Sailing/Yach/ng charter boats are required to have an AIS transceiver… Ours is powered ON 24/7. TO VIEW AIS DETAILS ABOUT A VESSEL A vessel’s AIS signal appears as a GREEN “triangle” on the chartplocer. Tap once on the triangle. An “AIS Vessel” bucon will pop up on the screen. Tap it to see detailed informa/on: MMSI #, type, status, range, GPS speed, GPS heading and -me of nearest approach to your vessel (this is your poten/al collision point). Select “Close” to return to chart view.



AIS COLLISION WARNING If an AIS vessel approaches you on a dangerous collision course, its GREEN triangle changes to RED… and then to FLASHING RED with a DOTTED RED line to warn you of a boat on a collision course. If you think a collision is IMMINENT, hail the other boat on VHF CHANNEL 16 and ask about their intenOons. If necessary, change course to AVOID a collision. HOW TO “TARGET” AN AIS VESSELTarge/ng enables you to track an AIS vessel that is approaching or crossing your path. To acOvate AIS target tracking: tap vessel’s AIS triangle > select “AIS Vessel” > Ac-vate Target (upper right corner of screen). To deacOvate a target vessel: tap vessel’s AIS triangle > select “AIS Vessel” > Deac-vate.

RADAR Our Garmin system includes radar overlay and MARPA (Mini-Automa/c-Radar-Plo=ng-Aid) target tracking. It can iden/fy and track other vessels as well as land masses, bridges, rain clouds, etc.. It is an important naviga/on aid if you must travel at night or in low visibility condi/ons. The Radar unit powers up when the Chartplocer is turned ON… however it enters a standby mode un/l it is acOvated to transmit a radar signal that overlays on the chartplocer screen. To track a radar vessel image, you must assign a MARPA tag to the target. The radar system automa/cally tracks the tagged target and provides you with informa/on: range, bearing, speed, GPS heading, distance and /me to nearest approach. A MARPA tag appears on the screen as a small circle. • To acOvate Radar: Tap “Toggle” bucon (next to the

HOME bucon) to switch to SPLIT SCREEN mode. Then tap the radar screen to reveal the “transmit" bucon (“XMIT”) in upper leo corner. Tap “XMIT Off” to switch the radar overlay ON.

• To deacOvate Radar: Tap the radar screen to reveal the transmit (XMIT On) bucon. Tap XMIT On to switch the radar overlay OFF. Then tap toggle bucon at bocom to return to the single Nav Chart mode.

• To acOvate a MARPA tag: select object > Acquire Target (upper menubar) > MARPA Target.

• To deacOvate a MARPA tag: select object > MARPA target > Remove.WIND TRANSDUCER

A Garmin gWind Wireless 2 transducer is mounted on the mast. It detects wind speed and direc/on and sends the data to the system via the Garmin Wifi network. Wind data is displayed on a mul/-purpose Garmin panel directly behind the wheel at both helms. This data is especially helpful when docking, anchoring and mooring. Use the UP or DOWN arrows to toggle through several screens to view Depth, GPS Speed-Over-Ground and Wind data.



CREATING A NAVIGATION ROUTE A “route” is a path FROM the boat’s loca/on TO a des/na/on. Crea/ng a route helps plan your day AND alerts you to possible hazards on your path (rocks, shallow areas, commercial traffic lanes, etc.). We recommend crea/ng a route using one of 3 methods: manually on a physical chart, using a mobile device with a naviga/on app, or using Garmin’s Auto Guidance route crea/on tool. • MANUALLY: The tradi/onal way to create a route is to do it manually on a NOAA chart. Charts for

the San Juan Islands and Gulf Islands and char/ng tools are provided (behind lower helm seat). • USE A NAVIGATION APP ON A GPS MOBILE DEVICE: For example, we use “Navionics” on our GPS

iPad for route planning <hcps://t.ly/PbBp>. We download an area chart in advance and use the “Automa/c” route crea/on tool to setup a route. We then posi/on the iPad near the chartplocer to compare progress on the iPad route to our actual path on the chartplocer.

• USE GARMIN’s AUTOPILOT “AUTO GUIDANCE” TOOL: Our Garmin Autopilot system offers 3 route crea/on tools: 1) Auto Guidance; 2) Go To; and 3) Route To. We recommend using ONLY the “Auto Guidance” tool with a big cau/on (see below). The other 2 methods are less useful or require training. Here’s how to use the Auto Guidance tool: 1. Tap the screen at your desOnaOon. A menubar will

open at the top of the screen. Select “Auto Guidance”. It takes 3-4 seconds to create a MAGENTA route line on the screen FROM the boat TO your des/na/on.

2. Review route for hazards. ZOOM IN along the route. Adjust it by selec/ng “Adjust Path” and follow onscreen instruc/ons. When sa/sfied, select “DONE”.

3. Select “START NAVIGATION” (this saves the route to memory and leaves it on the chart screen.)

4. NOW… HERE IS THE BIG CAUTION… pay close amenOon to this final step… The last step in the Auto Guidance route crea/on process is when it asks IF you want to ENGAGE the autopilot to steer the boat. CHOOSE “CANCEL AUTO GUIDANCE”… DO NOT CHOOSE “ENGAGE”… THIS ENDS THE ROUTE CREATION PROCESS, SWITCHES THE SCREEN TO THE NAV CHART, AND LEAVES THE HELM PERSON IN CONTROL OF STEERING THE BOAT.

WHY NOT “ENGAGE” THE AUTOPILOT TO STEER THE BOAT ON A ROUTE? FIRST, our Garmin user manual states this stern warning: “All route lines displayed on a chartplocer are only intended to provide general route guidance. They are not intended to be precisely followed. Always defer to navaids and condi/ons on the water when naviga/ng to avoid groundings or hazards that could result in vessel damage, personal injury, or death.” SECOND, routes created by Garmin’s Auto Guidance ooen include hidden “zig-zag” course altera/ons in odd places that make NO sense. When the Autopilot executes these unexpected turns, it is a surprise and potenOally dangerous distracOon for the helm person… especially if it occurs in a narrow passage or in proximity to other boats. (This has been reported to Garmin.) OUR POINT IS… Garmin’s “Auto Guidance” tool works very well for crea/ng a route on the chartplocer as a guide to your des/na/on. However, in our opinion, it is NOT SAFE to “Engage” the Autopilot to automa/cally steer the boat on a saved route. It is safer to have the helm person in full control of steering the boat either manually or using the “Heading Hold” feature.

✴ NOTE: If by mistake you engage the Autopilot to steer the boat on a route, you can DISENGAGE it by selecting Options > Navigation Options > Stop Navigation. (The route will be retained in memory.)



STEERING THE BOAT As stated above, there are two ways to steer the boat that we consider SAFE and EFFECTIVE – manually or using the Autopilot “Heading Hold” feature. In both modes, the helm person is in control of steering the boat. Either way, always monitor the chartplocer’s BLUE C.O.G. Line (Course over Ground) line to see the boat’s actual direcOon of movement based on wind and /dal currents.

MANUAL STEERING Some boaters simply enjoy manually steering the boat. That’s fine with us. All boaters should rely on manual steering in narrow channels near land, entering harbors, docking, mooring or underway in proximity to other boats. To steer manually, the Autopilot must be in “Standby" mode (the Autopilot’s default mode).

STEERING WITH AUTOPILOT “HEADING HOLD” This is an Autopilot mode where the boat is steered automa/cally on a compass heading you choose. It is easy to manage and very effec/ve for following a route leg on the chartplocer or making a long transit across open water. To use “Heading Hold”, steer the boat to a desired compass heading and press the “ENGAGE" bumon on the Autopilot panel. It will take over and steer the boat on that heading un/l you disengage it. Disengage by pressing the STDB (Standby) bumon. ✴ NOTE: The 3 panel buttons for the Autopilot are below the LCD screen on the

panel. Use them to activate any option showing on the LCD screen.

Two other features help make “Heading Hold” easy to use…

STEP STEERING This is an Autopilot feature that enables you to easily adjust a Heading Hold se=ng in 1º or 10º increments without disengaging the Autopilot. It is helpful when adjus/ng your course for wind, currents or a water hazard.• Press the <<10° <1° or 1°> 10°>> control bucon once to ini/ate

a 1° heading change to Port or Starboard. Mul/ple brief short presses ini/ates a series of 1° heading changes.

• A longer 2 second press on the same control bucons ini/ates a single 10° heading change to Port or Starboard. Con/nuing to hold the bucon ini/ates a series of 10° heading changes.

SHADOW DRIVE This is an Autopilot SAFETY feature that enables you to instantly override a Heading Hold course se�ng without disengaging the Autopilot. For example, it can be used to quickly avoid a water hazard like a log or crab pot float. All you do is AGGRESSIVELY TURN THE WHEEL… just like you would swerve a car to avoid a pothole. Shadow Drive automa/cally adjusts the Autopilot Heading Hold se=ng to follow where you “point” the boat. It will con/nue on that new heading un/l you redirect it to follow a different heading or shio to Standby.

REQUEST: PLEASE DO NOT CHANGE ANY CHARTPLOTTER LAYOUT SETTINGS!



22. ENGINES – ROUTINE MAINTENANCE QUICK DAILY ENGINE CHECK (COLD ENGINES)

We advise a quick safety check on both engines each day BEFORE cruising. Facing the engine cover, place the seat cushion on the bed. Remove the engine cover and lay it on top of the seat cushion. This gives access to the front of the engine where you can do the following quick daily checks: (see details below.)

1. An,-freeze coolant in overflow tank near LOW line? (COLD engine) 2. Saltwater strainer clear of marine debris? 3. Any serious signs of fluid leaks on pads under engines? 4. Oil above MID level on dips,ck? (check weekly on charters over 7 days) 5. Racor fuel filter clear? (in cabinet next to engine cover)

ENGINE MAINTENANCE DETAILS: CHECKING ANTI-FREEZE COOLANT LEVEL Marine diesel engines have two separate coolant systems – an/-freeze and salt water. Both are cri/cal for cooling the engine. It’s important to check the an/-freeze coolant level in the Overflow Expansion Tank daily. The tank is mounted on the wall next to the Seawater Strainer. • ONLY CHECK THE COOLANT LEVEL in the overflow expansion tank when the

engine is COLD. The “LOW” mark indicates the proper coolant level when the engine is COLD. The “FULL” mark indicates the maximum level of EXPANDED coolant when the engine is HOT.

• IF COOLANT IS NEEDED… a small container of pre-mixed 50/50 Cat DEAC Diesel Engine AnOfreeze Coolant and a funnel are in the cabinet next to the PORT engine.

• ONLY ADD 50/50 COOLANT WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD and ONLY add it in the fill-cap on top of the engine (SEE PHOTO BELOW). Remove the cap and add just enough pre-mix to raise the coolant to 1/4” below the lip of the inlet. If needed, a larger container of pre-mixed coolant is stored in the supplies bin in Deck Locker #4. ✴ WARNING: NEVER ADD COOLANT TO THE OVERFLOW TANK. This would virtually guarantee a coolant

overflow when the engine heats up… creating a massive mess that would seriously disrupt your cruise.

CHECKING SEAWATER COOLANT STRAINER Check the Seawater Coolant Strainer daily for marine debris that might reduce the flow of salt water used to cool the engine. Tiny specs of marine macer are normal and will flush through. If you see substan/al marine debris, like pieces of eel grass that could clog the cooling system, clean it out.

• To clean the strainer, slowly unscrew the lid by hand, pull out the basket, clean out the debris in galley sink. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THE RUBBER GASKET. Salt water will NOT spill out… the strainer is above the waterline.

• When done, replace the strainer basket and /ghten the lid by hand when you screw it back on… only “hand Oght”. ✴ TIP: If the lid is too tight to unscrew by hand, DO NOT FORCE IT! Get the red handle strap

wrench in our RED tool kit. Wrap the strap around the lid and use the handle’s leverage to slowly unscrew the lid.



CHECKING ENGINE LUBE OIL It is normal for diesel engines to consume some lube oil when running, especially at high RPM’s. During your charter, please check the oil at least twice a week. The oil is also checked in each engine every /me the boat returns to port.

• ONLY CHECK OIL WHEN THE ENGINES ARE COOL. To access the dips/ck, remove the seat cushion and place it on top of the bed. Remove and place the white engine cover on top of the seat cushion. The dips/ck is on the starboard side of the engine about ⅓ of the way back. ✴ TIP: There is a 12V LED light (with switch) mounted on the wall near each engine’s dipstick. To use it, be sure

the “12V/USB Berths” DC breaker ON. • THE PROPER OIL LEVEL IS BETWEEN HALF TO FULL ON THE DIPSTICK. Ge=ng an accurate dips/ck

reading can be challenging… it is common to get false readings. We advise 3 READINGS to be sure. Remove the s/ck, wipe it clean with a paper towel and push it all the way back down the tube. Wait 2 seconds, pull it out slowly & smoothly. Examine the oil level… the level will show on the side of the s/ck with the MIN/MAX level lines. ✴ NOTE: Diesel engine oil will appear thick and almost black. This is due to carbon residue that accumulates in

the oil as a result of the combustion process. This is normal and is not an issue. • ONLY ADD OIL IF THE LEVEL IS BELOW THE MID POINT ON THE DIPSTICK (ater 3 readings). Use

only high quality SAE 15W-40 Heavy Duty Diesel Motor Oil (Chevron or Kirkland brands preferred). It takes about 1.5-2 quarts to raise the level from HALF to FULL on the dips/ck. Engine oil, paper towels, absorb pads and a funnel are stored in the cabinet next to the engine cover. More engine oil and pads are stored in Deck Locker 4 in a bin labeled “Engine Supplies”. ✴ CAUTION: If you add oil, BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVERFILL! Too much oil is almost as bad as too little.

CHECK RACOR FUEL FILTER Diesel fuel systems operate under very high pressure and do not react well to contaminated fuel. The Racor filter is the first line of defense against contamina/on – it separates contaminants (e.g., water, dirt, etc.) from the fuel before it gets to the engine. The Racor filter for each engine is located inside the small cabinet next to the engine compartment’s front cover. A quick visual inspec/on should show only clear PINK diesel fuel in the filter bowl. If water or dirt has entered the fuel system, it will be visible at the bocom of the bowl and must be removed. ✴ WARNING: If you see water or debris in a Racor fuel bowl, DO NOT run that engine until

the issue is resolved. CALL SAN JUAN YACHTING IMMEDIATELY FOR HELP @ 1-360-671-4300.



23. FILLING FUEL TANKS (DIESEL & GASOLINE) There are two diesel fuel tanks with a total capacity of 184 gallons (about 130 useable gals of fuel). The Main fuel tank holds 114 gallons located under the floorboards inside the entry door. The two engines ONLY get fuel from the MAIN tank. The Auxiliary fuel tank holds 70 gallons and is located below Deck Locker 2 on the foredeck. It serves as backup to the main diesel fuel tank AND to fuel the Webasto Hea/ng System. If you need to transfer fuel from the Aux. tank to the Main fuel tank, see instruc/ons in the Appendix. ✴ CAUTION TO SKIPPER: Avoiding a fuel spill is the responsibility of the Skipper. Be sure whoever operates the

fuel hose pays close attention to the process of filling the tank AND does NOT try to top off the tank. A fuel spill is very hard to clean and a serious environmental hazard that has to be reported immediately to the Coast Guard.

FILLING THE MAIN DIESEL TANK The fill inlet for the Main tank is on the AFT deck in front of the salon entry door. The fill caps is labeled “DIESEL”. With both engines OFF, get an absorbent pad, latex gloves and a cap key wrench from the bins behind the chart table and follow this procedure…

✴ CAUTION: BE CERTAIN ONLY DIESEL FUEL GOES IN THE “DIESEL” INLET. 1. Have a crew member monitor the Main Fuel Tank gauge at the lower helm. Close

the salon entry door to prevent fumes from entering the cabin. 2. Unscrew the DIESEL FILL CAP. Insert the fuel hose nozzle into the fill tube and fill

SLOWLY to allow air to escape. Filling too fast can cause fuel to spurt out uncontrollably from the fill tube… VERY MESSY!

3. Have your crew member alert you as the needle approaches FULL. Pause to let the tank secle. Con/nue filling SLOWLY. If you hear a “gurgling” sound, IMMEDIATELY PAUSE FILLING. That sound means the tank is filling too fast OR is VERY FULL and about to overflow.

4. STOP filling when the needle is STEADY just above “FULL”. DO NOT TRY TO TOP OFF! This usually results in fuel spurOng out uncontrollably… making a nasty, difficult-to-clean mess.

5. When done, remove the nozzle with an absorb pad over the hose opening, screw the fill cap back in place and return the hose to the dock acendant. Return the cap key, gloves and clean absorb pads to the bin inside the cabin door. If any fuel was spilled, even a /ny amount, please clean it up immediately with dishwashing detergent and warm water.

FILLING THE AUXILIARY DIESEL TANK Filling the Aux. fuel tank us the same as for the Main tank. The fill cap (labeled “DIESEL’) is located on the foredeck near Deck Locker 1. STOP FILLING THE AUX TANK AT 7 / 8 ON THE FUEL GAUGE. if it is filled to FULL, fuel can seep out a valve on TOP of the tank and dribble down into the area below the refrigerator… it is an ugly, smelly mess and very hard to clean.

✴ END OF CRUISE REMINDER… if you used the Webasto Heating System or transferred any diesel fuel to the main fuel tank, please remember to REFILL BOTH DIESEL TANKS when you return.You do NOT need to fill the extra gasoline fuel container when you return to port.

FILLING THE PORTABLE OUTBOARD GASOLINE TANK If you purchase gasoline for the outboard motor during your charter, please fill the 1.25 gal. red gasoline container ON THE DOCK. ADD 1/10 oz. of Marine Ethanol Treatment and Fuel Stabilizer PER GALLON of gas. (stored in outboard parts bin in Deck Locker 4). DO NOT ADD OIL to the gas. (It’s a 4-cycle engine.)



24. FRESH WATER SYSTEM We have two fresh water tanks with a combined total of 86 gallons. The main tank holds 80 gal. and is located in the bow under Deck Locker 3. The hot water tank behind the port engine holds 6 gallons Turn the “FRESH WATER PUMP” DC breaker ON to make water available at the galley sink, head sink, shower and wash-down hose on the port transom steps. • Water from the main tank is filtered for sediment and is drinkable. The

filter is changed every 2 months during the charter season. • The Water Level gauge on the wall in the head shows the level in the

Main water tank. (Note: the gauge light shios from FULL to MID quickly and then stays on MID for a long /me. (That is normal, not a leak.)

• We also bring several gallon jugs of bocled drinking water to supplement our food supplies.

• When the water level gauge shows LOW, there are about 20 gals of water leo in the tank. WATER CONSERVATION

Conserva/ve use of water is a key part of successful cruising. Like bacery power, fresh water can become a limi/ng factor if you are anchoring a lot. On average, we es/mate each adult uses about 4 gals of water per day for drinking water, cooking, flushing toilet, washing dishes, showers, personal hygiene, etc. If we set aside 20 gals as a reserve, that leaves 60 gals for daily consump/on… at the most, 7.5 days of water for 2 people; 3.75 days for 4 people. The point is, encourage your crew to be mindful about conserving water… especially in the galley and head. That’s where a lot of water gets wasted. For example, be though�ul when washing & rinsing dishes… and always take “Navy” showers… • “NAVY” shower – Run the shower long enough to set your water temp. Then wet down quickly

and push the CUTOFF valve bucon to the RIGHT (above the shower nozzle)… it cuts the water off and retains your hot/cold se=ng. Soap up all over. To rinse off, push the CUTOFF valve bucon to the LEFT to release the water.

• Shower Drain Pump – Before showering, turn the DC “Shower Pump" breaker ON. Flip the On/Off toggle switch on the shower wall UP to pump water out of the basin periodically during and aoer a shower. Shut the pump OFF when there is no water to pump out.

FILLING THE MAIN WATER TANK The Main Water tank fill inlet is on the front deck next to Deck Locker 3 near the front window. You will need a Cap Key wrench. Use ONLY the WHITE hose labeled “FRESH WATER” stored in Locker 3 to fill the water tank from a hose bib on the dock. ✴ CAUTION: Be certain ONLY FRESH WATER goes into the water tank inlet. And, PLEASE, NEVER

ADD BLEACH TO THE WATER… it corrodes the aluminum tank.

HEATING FRESH WATER There are 3 ways to heat fresh water… Shore power, Port Engine and Webasto Hea/ng System: • SHORE POWER – When connected to shore power, turn the AC “Water Heater” breaker ON. This

heats the water in the AFT Hot Water tank to 125º. Note this breaker ONLY works on shore power. To access the hot water, be sure the Hot Water Bypass toggle switch in the galley next to the sink is set to “Engine/Shore Hot Water”.

• PORT ENGINE – When this engine is running and warmed up, it heats the water in the AFT Hot Water tank to 125º. AFTER the engine is shut down, the water stays hot-to-warm for about 14 hours. Similar to hea/ng water on Shore Power, be sure the Hot Water Bypass toggle switch in the galley next to the sink is set to “Engine/Shore Hot Water”.



• WEBASTO HEATING SYSTEM – If the boat’s hot water supply has cooled down while at anchor, you can heat it up to 125º by turning the Webasto Hea/ng System ON. Just wait the 12-14 mins. for the system to warm up. Then flip the Hot Water Bypass toggle switch in the galley to “Webasto Hot Water”. The GREEN LED light will come ON indica/ng the source for hot water has switched FROM the Port engine tank TO the Webasto ON-DEMAND tank. Be sure to turn the Webasto system OFF when you are done with hot water. (See next sec/on for details on the Webasto Hea/ng system.) ✴ TIP: If you do NOT want to raise the air temperature inside the boat when you heat water

this way, turn the 4 zone thermostats OFF. ✴ NOTE: When done heating water with the Webasto System, turn it OFF to conserve battery power AND flip

the Hot Water Bypass switch back to “Engine/Shore Hot Water”.

25. HEATING INTERIOR INTERIOR WEBASTO HYDRONIC HEATING SYSTEM

Our Webasto hydronic hea/ng system is the primary way to warm the interior of the boat. It can also provide ON-DEMAND fresh hot water if needed. This small, fuel efficient diesel furnace is located in Deck Locker 1. It draws fuel from the Auxiliary Diesel Fuel Tank. The cabin temperature is regulated by thermostats and fans in 4 zones: salon, the 2 Berths, and the Head. • To ac/vate the system, turn the “System Heat” switch ON.

It’s mounted above the electrical panel on the front of lower helm cabinet.

• Turn the 4 zone thermostats to “HEAT" and set the desired temperature. It takes about 12-14 mins for the diesel furnace to heat the hydronic system. Once the system is hot, the hot air fans ac/vate automa/cally based on the se=ng in each zone.

• The 2 fans that push warm air out the vents at each end of the salon table seat are controlled by two High/Off/Low switches. They are mounted below the seat at the forward end of the table. We normally leave these fan speed switches on HIGH.

• Warm air from the vent at the lower side of the lower helm seat is controlled by the thermostat in the Starboard berth. ✴ TIP: We recommend turning the Webasto heating system OFF at night… it

consumes fuel, uses a lot of battery power, and makes a lot of noise. It’s better to turn the system ON in the morning if it is needed.

STARBOARD ENGINE HEAT FAN While underway, turning the DC “ENG HEAT FAN” breaker ON ac/vates a fan that blows warm air into the cabin through two air vents at the bocom of the salon entry steps. Be sure the adjustable vent slats are OPEN. We turn this heat source ON while cruising when we want to warm the cabin on chilly days. This heat comes from the Starboard engine and is available only while underway. Be sure to turn this breaker OFF aoer the engines are shut down.



26. SANITATION SYSTEM – HOW TO AVOID CLOGS & EMPTY THE TANKHIGHLIGHTS

• DO NOT FLUSH ANYTHING NOT EATEN DOWN THE TOILET. • Dispose of used toilet paper and sanitary products in sealable plas/c

baggies (provided). • Holding Tank: 35 gal. capacity; monitor gauge is in Head; empty tank

soon aoer tank monitor reaches MID level. When the FULL light comes ON, the tank is TOTALLY FULL.

• Holding Tank can be pumped out at marinas, and legally discharged overboard only in Canadian waters (see Canadian regula/ons below).

SANITATION SYSTEM The electric toilet uses FRESH water which reduces odor and keeps the toilet bowl cleaner. Toilet waste is pumped into the 35 gal. Holding Tank in the Starboard bow (below Deck Locker 4). The two toggle switches on the wall in front of the toilet control flushing. • Upper Toggle switch – Press the RIGHT side to empty the bowl AND add

water at the same /me… use it for flushing liquid waste. • Lower Toggle switch – Press the LEFT side to add water to the bowl to help

flush solid human waste. Press the RIGHT side to empty the bowl. HOW TO AVOID SANITATION SYSTEM PROBLEMS

• FACT #1: Boat sanitaOon systems are notorious for clogging! A stopped-up toilet or burned out macerator pump can wreck a cruise.

• FACT #2: 99% of clogging issues result from physical material OTHER THAN HUMAN WASTE being flushed down the toilet! Material like hair, paper, string, fruit pits or feminine sanitary products can jam the toilet pump motor or clog the narrow 1” diameter hose from the toilet to the holding tank.

• RULE #1: “ONLY HUMAN WASTE GOES IN THE TOILET”. (There are no other rules.) • ENROLL YOUR CREW – Dispose of ALL used toilet paper, feminine sanitary products… anything

other than human waste in the sealable plas/c baggies provided. A box of baggies is in the head cabinet. Park a baggie behind the toilet and start a new baggie as needed to keep things fresh.

HOLDING TANK MONITOR The holding tank monitor gauge is on the wall opposite the toilet (just below the Fresh Water tank gauge). Aoer the LOW light comes on, it takes a long /me for the tank to fill to the MID level. Once it gets to the MID level, you should plan to EMPTY the tank fairly SOON – either pump out at a marina or state park, or discharge legally in deep Canadian waters while underway. ✴ WARNING: When the holding tank monitor indicates the tank is “FULL", it REALLY

is FULL! Any further use of the toilet risks a very unpleasant tank overflow. KEEPING THE SANI-SYSTEM CLEAN

• Clean the Toilet & Bowl Area – Periodically use the Germicide cleaner provided to keep the toilet bowl and the area around it clean.

• Flush one HALF capful of “Noflex Digester” down the toilet daily to neutralize odors. It actually works! (It is provided.) ✴ CAUTION: Please DO NOT use bleach, caustic cleaners, drain openers, or solvents in the sani-system.

These products can permanently damage the gaskets and cause leaks.



HOW TO EMPTY THE HOLDING TANK There are two ways to empty the holding tank… at a pumpout facility (at most marinas and some parks); OR legally discharge the tank overboard while underway in Canadian waters: • IN U..S. WATERS: In 2018, all of Puget Sound was declared a “No Discharge Zone” by the U.S.

Government. The discharge of sewage (toilet waste) from boats of any kind or size is PROHIBITED. Holding tanks are required to be emp/ed at authorized facili/es only. The fine for viola/ng the law in a No Discharge Zone in the U.S. can be severe.

• IN CANADIAN WATERS: New rules severely restrict where and how salt-water boaters can discharge raw sewage. The use of pump-out alterna/ves is strongly encouraged. Discharge in salt water is only permiced if the vessel is greater than 3 miles from any shore. An exemp/on allows overboard discharge if necessary and more than ONE mile from shore as long as it is on an EBB /de in the deepest possible water and at a cruising speed in excess of 4 knots.

THE 2 SANI-SYSTEM VALVES • HOLDING TANK Y-VALVE: located on the ao wall in Deck

Locker 4. The RED arrow on handle indicates the direc/on of fluid waste flow FROM the holding tank TO a pump out facility or TO the macerator pump to be discharged overboard. The valve handle should always point to Starboard (“DECK Pump Out”) except when discharging the tank contents overboard.

• HOLDING TANK THRU-HULL DISCHARGE VALVE: under the floorboard in front of toilet in the head. This valve is normally kept CLOSED (handle parallel to the hull floor). The valve must be OPENED (handle straight UP) for waste to be pumped overboard from the holding tank.

HOW TO EMPTY HOLDING TANK AT A MARINA A list of pumpout loca/ons in the San Juan Islands is in the Charter Guest Binder. The pump out process at a marina is easy. You need a Cap Key wrench and latex gloves (in bins behind chart table). Here’s the process: 1. Unscrew the WASTE pumpout cap on

deck in front of Deck Locker 4. (Be careful not to drop it… it is NOT chained to the deck fi=ng).

2. In Deck Locker 4, verify the RED arrow on the Y-valve handle is poin/ng to STARBOARD… toward the Dock Pump Out hose.

3. Follow instruc/ons at the Pumpout sta/on to pump out the tank. Basically, you acach the pumpout hose fi=ng to the deck WASTE outlet and turn the dock pump ON. The hose will have a rubber fi=ng that fits /ghtly over or into the deck outlet.

4. Monitor the dark tank fluid moving through pumpout hose “window”. The tank is empty when the fluid stops flowing. Using the dock water hose, we normally put about 3-5 gals of dock water into the tank and repeat pumping out un/l the fluid in the hose window is reasonably clear.



5. When done, return the pumpout hose to the dock, replace the WASTE cap and thoroughly rinse the deck area with fresh dock water. (We also wash our latex gloves in soapy water.) ✴ NOTE: Use only the dock’s water hose. Do NOT use the boat’s water hose.

HOW TO DISCHARGE HOLDING TANK OVERBOARD (LEGAL ONLY IN CANADA) The procedure for discharging the holding tank underway is simple. Follow these steps… 1. Turn the “Macerator Pump” breaker at the DC panel ON. 2. OPEN the Holding Tank Thru-Hull valve in the head bilge (rotate handle

so it points straight UP). ✴ CAUTION: If the thru-hull discharge valve in the head is NOT open when the pump is

turned ON, you risk bursting the discharge hose inside the boat… a VERY UGLY, COSTLY disruption to your trip!

3. Step down into Deck Locker 4 (Starboard bow). Turn the Y-Valve handle so the RED arrow points to PORT (toward “Discharge Overboard” hose).

4. With the boat moving at low speed (3-4 knots) in deep water away from land, turn the macerator pump TIMER clockwise to 7 minutes (to empty a FULL tank). The pump starts with a high pitch whine. Aoer a few seconds, the sound will shio to a lower pitch tone indica/ng the pump is primed and is now pumping the tank contents overboard.

5. The pump sound changes back to a higher pitch whine when the tank is empty. Shut the /mer OFF. If the /mer shuts off before the tank is empty, add 1-2 more minutes on the /mer.

6. Turn the Y-valve handle back so the arrow points to STARBOARD… toward the “Dock Pump Out” hose. (This is a Coast Guard regula/on.)

7. Go back to the head, verify the Holding Tank monitor shows the tank is EMPTY. Then CLOSE the Holding Tank Thru-hull valve – rotate the handle 90º so it is parallel to the hull floor.

8. LASTLY, turn the DC panel “Macerator Pump" breaker OFF. ✴ CAUTION: Do NOT leave the macerator pump running unattended… it is not

designed to run “dry”. ✴ NOTE: These instructions are posted inside Deck Locker 4.



ACCOMMODATIONS, ENTERTAINMENT, FLYBRIDGE, GALLEY, WINDOWS, OTHER GEAR

27. ACCOMMODATIONS STATEROOMS

There are two staterooms… one on each side of the boat below and ao of the salon. Each has ample cabinet storage and a comfortable full Queen size macress (60” x 80”) and a 2” memory foam pad on top. Both beds have two reading lights, an AC outlet, a dual 12V/USB port, a small digital clock and an LED flashlight. Both berths have two portholes for fresh air flow and a thermostat to control warm air when the boat’s Webasto heat system is ON.

SALON TABLE CONVERSION OPTION: The boat is designed to comfortably accommodate up to 4 people with food and gear when cruising. With one head and limited storage, the boat can feel a bit “crowded” with more than 4 people onboard. However, if requested in advance, addi/onal sleeping space can be made for 1-2 children OR 1 more adult by conver/ng the dining table into a bed. (The cushion pads are stored offsite.) Please follow these instruc/ons…

✴ CAUTION: The MAX. weight for the table bed is 225 lbs… this means one adult or two children can use it as long as the 2 shorts posts are put in place to support it.

1. Get the 2 short table posts from the storage space under the port floorboard beneath the table (they are stored in a cloth bag to prevent racling while underway.).

2. With 2 people si=ng opposite each other at the table, gently wiggle and lio the table UP to pull out the two tall metal posts that support it. Be really careful… the heavy metal posts can drop out of the table mounts and hit your feet or gouge the floorboards as you lit the table. You can store the tall posts in the space beneath the table floorboards.

3. Insert the two short posts in the holes in the floor. Carefully lower the table on top of the short posts. Someone will likely need to reach underneath the table to posi/on the 2 short legs so they slide into the mounts on the underside of the table. The edges of the table slide under the front edge of the seat cushions to rest securely on two posts AND on the wood “lip” on the seat bench. When done, the table should be flat and completely stable.

4. Place the two ficed cushion sec/ons on top of the table and makeup the bed.

5. Reverse the process to set the table back up on its tall posts. Store the short posts back in the cloth bag under the port floorboard beneath the table. Store the two macress sec/ons in one of the staterooms during the day.

✴ NOTE: If you request the extra bed, be sure to CONFIRM with San Juan Yachting at least 1 week in advance that the pads and bedding will be onboard when your charter starts.



28. ENTERTAINMENT AUDIO SOUND SYSTEM

There is a West Marine WM4000 stereo AM/FM/AUX/BLUETOOTH receiver located above the LOWER helm. Besides AM/FM radio channels, it can play music or any media stored on a mobile device such as an iPod, iPhone, iPad, etc. via Bluetooth. There are stereo speakers in the Salon and on the Flybridge. HOW TO PAIR A BLUETOOTH DEVICE The WM4000 broadcasts a constant pairing signal when no devices are connected. It can be in any mode when you pair a mobile device. 1. First, turn the “Stereo” breaker at the SUB PANEL at the Lower helm ON. 2. Verify Bluetooth is ac/ve on your mobile device. Then, push on MODE bucon un/l you see

“Bluetooth” on the display. Then, complete the pairing process on your mobile device by connec/ng to the radio’s name: WM4000. The pairing passcode is: 1234 ✴ NOTE: See operating manual in the blue expanding folder behind lower Helm seat. ✴ NOTE: There is also a USB port on the front of the unit.

DVD PLAYER There is a Sansui DVD Player for playing movies. 1. If the boat is OFF shore power, turn the Victron panel

INVERTER switch to ON and make sure the AC “TV & HEAD” breaker is ON.

2. Verify the DVD player is plugged into the AC outlet on the wall behind it. Aim the Sansui remote control at the screen and press the Power bucon. When power is ON, press the TV/DVD bucon.

3. Insert DVD disc in slot on LEFT side of the TV screen with the DVD label side facing toward the FRONT of the screen. Use the Remote Control’s arrows for Play and Volume bucons to play a movie.

4. When done, click the EJECT bucon on remote (upper right corner) to eject the DVD. BOAT LIBRARY

The library has a small collec/on of books, DVD’s, various games and packs of playing cards. It is located in the middle cabinet near the Head on the starboard side. We suggest you bring the books or DVD’s that you want to enjoy during your cruise.

29. FLYBRIDGE – LP TANKS, GRILLING, WINDSHIELD, SUNSCREENS LP GAS TANKS

There are two LP tanks in the seat locker next to the Flybridge helm. Only one tank is used to fuel the galley cooktop and BBQ grill. The other is a spare. You can leave the ac/ve LP tank valve OPEN during your en/re trip. Just use the LPG Control switch in the galley to turn LP gas flow ON and OFF. To switch tanks, make sure the LPG Control switch in the galley is OFF. Close the ac/ve tank valve, switch the hose to the spare tank and open its valve. It may take 15 seconds for LP gas to get through the hose to the cooktop or BBQ.



GRILLING The Flybridge is a great social space to relax, enjoy a meal and view a sunset. The BBQ grill is mounted on the back railing. Cooking tools and aluminum foil are in a bin in the corner seat locker next to the grill. The ice chest is handy and there are two small folding tables in the port seat locker. By rota/ng the backrest on the helm seat forward toward the bow, there is sea/ng for up to 6 people.

TO START THE BBQ GRILL: 1. Turn ON the “LP GAS” DC breaker and the

“LPG CONTROL” wall switch in the galley (next to microwave).

2. Verify the YELLOW BBQ propane gas valve HANDLE points to PORT inline with the BBQ gas hose (the handle is down low between the two LP tanks).

3. Take the canvas cover off the grill (leave it /ed to the railing) and open the grill lid. Turn the grill’s gas control knob to HIGH, STAND BACK, wait 2 seconds (you should hear gas flowing), and push the RED igniter bucon. It usually works quite well.

4. If it doesn’t light aoer several tries, verify the LP gas tank valve is OPEN AND the LPG Control switch in the Galley is ON. If they are ON and it s/ll won’t light, try a manual lighter – stored in the BBQ tools bin. ✴ CAUTION: Always ignite the grill with the LID OPEN and STAND BACK… it can start with a flame “POOF” as

the gas ignites ✴ NOTE: The gauge in the LP tank locker does NOT show the amount of fuel in the tank. It shows the pressure

in the LP hose line. It is only used to detect gas leaks in the hose. GRILLING TIPS:

• This grill heats FAST and runs HOT… we advise using the LOW-MED heat se=ng to avoid over-cooking food.

• ALUMINUM FOIL – Avoid flare-ups by pu=ng ALL food cooked on the grill on a sheet of aluminum foil. This for sure applies to oily and facy foods like chicken, meat or salmon. It also makes clean-up really easy. A roll of foil is provided in a plas/c bin in the seat locker next to the grill (along with the BBQ tools).

• Watch for hot dripping grease leaking out the backside of the grill onto the AFT Bimini canvas. PLEASE CLEAN UP THE BBQ AREA AFTER GRILLING

1. Turn the gas control knob at the grill OFF. Then turn the “LP GAS” DC breaker and the “LPG CONTROL” wall switch in galley OFF.

2. PLEASE clean up grease and food splamers on the grill, flybridge deck or seats. Please clean the Slide-out grease tray at the bocom of the grill. Then close and lock the grill lid and replace the canvas cover. (The lid vibrates underway if it is not locked down.)

3. PLEASE DO NOT store or use metal BBQ tools in the galley. They tend to scratch whatever they touch. Please put the clean tools back in the plas/c bin in the ao seat locker on the Flybridge.



POLYCARBONATE WINDSHIELD Our Flybridge has a large, very clear, semi-rigid polycarbonate windshield with a large zipper “Smile” window in the center. It provides good protec/on from cold wind or rain while opera/ng on the flybridge. The large center “smile” window can be opened to interact with crew when anchoring, docking, or cruising in warm weather. TO OPEN THE “SMILE” WINDOW Unzip the two zippers all the way to the top of the window. Grasp the window by the bocom zipper fabric and pull it INWARD so it hinges UPWARD. Secure it in place using the 3 snap straps hanging down from the underside of the Bimini frame. CLEANING THE WINDSHIELD Polycarbonate is fairly strong and very expensive. While it is “scratch” resistant, we’ve learned it can actually be easily damaged. Please follow these guidelines:

WHAT WORKS WITH POLYCARBONATE… • Spray the windshield as oten as possible with fresh water to

remove salt… let it air dry. • To clear off dew / mist, gently apply a SOFT squeegee (stored in

Flybridge seat locker next to BBQ Grill). • To clean, use a SOFT, CLEAN, WET syntheOc cloth (in bin in the

starboard flybridge locker next to the helm seat.) WHAT DOES NOT WORK WITH POLYCARBONATE… PLEASE…

• Do not use a squeegee or cloth unless the window is wet. • Do not use a sOff squeegee, boat brush or dirty towels. • Do not touch windshield with sunscreen on your hands. • Do not use any kind of abrasive or petroleum based cleaners. • Do not use any cleaning products like 409, Windex or Simple Green.

EXTERIOR SUNSCREENS FRONT SALON WINDOW SUNSCREEN A large snap-on white mesh sunscreen is available. It covers all 3 of the front windows. It reduces sunlight inside while s/ll allowing you to see outside. It is stored in Deck Locker 2 and should be installed UNDERNEATH the windshield wipers. It has two ver/cal zippers – one on each side of the center window. These zippers must be fully UNZIPPED to open the front window. AFT SALON WINDOW SUNSCREEN The other exterior mesh shade snaps onto the ao salon window behind the chart table. We leave this sunshade in place at all /mes.

✴ REQUEST: If you remove and store either of the sunscreens, please let them dry BEFORE storing them. And please ROLL them up. DO NOT fold or crush them… doing so damages the fabric.



30. GALLEY – FOOD STORAGE, COOKING & TRASH GALLEY

Our galley is a surprisingly effec/ve work space. It is equipped with a microwave, 2-Burner propane cooktop, double sink, and decent counter space. There is ample storage for flatware, cooking tools & utensils, pots/pans, dry goods and supplies. Our side-by-side Isotherm refrigerator/freezer offers ample storage for perishable food (5.2 cu. o.) and frozen food (1.8 cu. o.). We set the temperature control at Level 2 or 3 for moderate food storage; maybe higher for a very full fridge. Remember, the internal temperature is affected by varia/ons in ambient temperature, the quan/ty of stored food, how it is posi/oned inside and how ooen the doors are opened.

FOOD STORAGE Besides the refrigerator/freezer, there is a tall pantry cabinet next to the sink for dry goods. There’s a LOT more storage space for supplies, dry food goods, water bocles, etc. under the salon table seats (on both sides) and under the floorboards under the salon table. There are large “cool” storage areas for fruit, vegetables or beverages under the floorboard at the bocom of the galley steps AND under the floorboard in the port and starboard berths. There is also a 36 qt. ice chest on the Flybridge.

MICROWAVE OVEN, COFFEE MAKER, TOASTER The microwave has a typical quick start feature… press any number bucon for the desired hea/ng /me and it auto starts (e.g., press “2” for 2 mins.). A toaster, large coffee maker, coffee bean grinder & French Press are stored in the cabinet under the sink counter. • When connected to shore power, turn the AC Galley breaker ON to use these devices. • When away from shore power, first turn the Victron Inverter/Charger switch to ON. Then turn the

Galley breaker ON to power the AC outlets for these devices. ✴ CAUTION: To conserve battery power, we advise using high demand devices sparingly. Use ONLY ONE at a

time. Otherwise, it may trigger a LOW VOLTAGE ALARM and trip an overload breaker… particularly if the house batteries are below 75% SOC.

BEVERAGE CABINET The beverage cabinet across from the salon table has unbreakable plas/c wine, cocktail and shot glasses and stores up to 6 wine bocles. A wine bocle opener and vacuum sealing device are provided. The lower sec/on also stores table placemats and “cozies” for canned beverages.



COOKTOP The 2-burner cooktop in the galley is fueled by the propane gas tanks stored in the Flybridge LP tank locker. These tanks are checked weekly, so there should be ample fuel for your charter. To use the cooktop, follow these steps: 1. Turn ON the STOVE and LP GAS breakers on the DC panel. 2. Then turn ON the LPG CONTROL wall switch next to the

microwave (it opens the solenoid valve in the LP tank locker that controls LP gas flow to the cooktop and BBQ.)

3. Push a burner control knob down and counter-clockwise to the LITE posi/on to ac/vate the spark igniter. Hold it down for 2 seconds to light the burner. When the burner ignites, conOnue holding the knob DOWN for 2 more seconds. Rotate the knob a bit counter-clockwise so the burner remains lit. Adjust the flame to the level desired and release the control knob.

4. If the cooktop will not light, first verify the LP tank gas valve is OPEN. Next verify the STOVE and LP Gas DC breakers and LPG CONTROL wall switch are ON. If the igniter s/ll doesn’t work, try a manual igniter or matches (both are provided).

✴ CAUTION: For safety, always turn OFF the LPG Control wall switch in the galley as soon as you are finished using the cooktop OR BBQ grill. This cuts off LP gas flow OFF at the tank. We also turn OFF the “STOVE” and “LP GAS” DC breakers at the same time.

GALLEY WARE, SUPPLIES & PANTRY ITEMS The boat is equipped with a variety of pots, pans, serving bowls, trays and trash & recycle cans in the cabinet under the refrigerator. See “Boat Inventory” for a complete list of galley supplies and pantry items. • Plateware and Glasses – service for 8 is stored in the cabinet

under the microwave. Unbreakable glasses and insulated mugs are provided. Wine and small beverage glasses are stored in the Beverage cabinet.

• Stainless Pots & Pans – A non-abrasive cleaning powder (“Bar Keeper’s Helper”) is provided. It is very effec/ve for cleaning stainless cookware.

• Non-SOck Fry Pans – PLEASE USE BUTTER or LIQUID OIL for cooking. PLEASE DO NOT USE SPRAY OIL…the chemicals in spray oil cause food to s/ck and leaves an invisible, hard-to-clean oil buildup. Please use LOW to MED heat only… high heat warps the pans and permanently damages the non-s/ck coa/ng. AND, PLEASE DO NOT USE KNIVES OR METAL UTENSILS ON NON-STICK PANS.

MANAGING TRASH & RECYCLEManaging boat trash can be a challenge. There are small and medium bio-degradable trash bags for the 4 plas/c garbage/trash bins on board. One bin (under the fridge) is for RECYCLE — bocles and cans. As the small bags fill up, we suggest pu=ng them in two large heavy duty plas/c bags (with /e string) — one for trash/garbage; the other for recycle and store them in Deck Locker 2 for disposal later at a marina.



31. WINDOWS, PORTHOLES, CURTAINS & CONDENSATION UPPER SALON SIDE WINDOWS

There are two sliding glass panels with a locking latch in the middle on each side of the upper salon area. One panel can be opened at a /me. • TO OPEN FORWARD GLASS PANEL: This panel slides AFT for fresh air

WITHOUT a bug screen. With one hand, GENTLY pull the black locking latch handle (in middle) toward you to unlock the windows. With your other hand, grasp and pull the white handle on the forward edge of the glass panel to slide it AFT.

• TO OPEN AFT GLASS PANEL: This panel slides forward for fresh air WITH a bug screen. Pull the black locking latch handle in the middle and gently toward you and pull it gently forward to slide the AFT glass panel forward. This exposes the bug screen. Do NOT slide the bug screen.

MAIN SALON FRONT WINDOW The front center window pivots outward from the bocom. There is a locking lever and a hinged support arm on each side with a black spring loaded knob that can hold the window open at 3 angles. • TO OPEN THE FRONT WINDOW: Unlock the two locking levers. Pull

the two black knobs out on the support arms and rotate them slightly to allow pushing the window outward. Reset the locking knobs on the arms to hold the window open. Reverse the process to close the window. (Note there is no bug screen for this window.) ✴ NOTE: If the front window’s exterior sunscreen is in place, you must UN-ZIP its two vertical zippers in order to

open the center window. Please be careful when closing the front window so the 2 locking levers do not damage the window’s rubber gasket.

BERTH WINDOWS & BUG SCREENS Each berth has a large ao-facing hatch window. The window rotates outward (hinged at top) and have twist-to-lock support arms. Bug screens for these windows are stored in each berth’s hanging closet. If needed, clip the screen into place from inside. Please be gentle with these screens… they are easily damaged by rough handling. These windows also serve as EMERGENCY EXITS.

SIDE PORTHOLES & BUG SCREENS: There are three small oval portholes on each side of the boat. Bug screens for these portholes are stored in a plas/c bag in the Port stateroom’s storage cabinets. If needed, they can be clipped into place from inside. ✴ NOTE: CLEANING GLASS WINDOWS – A spray bottle with non-toxic cleaning solution for glass windows is

stored under the galley sink. Please use only this product with paper towels to clean the glass windows. INTERIOR CURTAINS

There are sliding cloth window curtains on both sides in the salon. They can be closed to block sunlight or for privacy at night. They should be fully open and secured for safety and visibility when the boat is underway.

MANAGING CONDENSATION In cool weather, condensa/on can build up inside the boat on the salon and berth windows. You can reduce this moisture by opening each berth’s window AND porthole a 1-2” at night to allow some fresh air flow. Each morning, if there is condensa/on, we recommend using a cocon towel to wipe off the condensa/on on the windows and their metal frames.



32. OTHER USEFUL GEAR • West Marine “Coastal 400” 7x50 Waterproof Binoculars – A good quality set of binoculars are

provided. They are rugged, light and waterproof. • Crab Pots – Two folding crab pots are stored in Deck Locker 1. The pot buoys and line stored in a 5

gal. bucket. Bait bags are stored in Deck Locker 3. (Old chicken seems to work well.) • Folding Chairs – Four folding camp chairs are in Deck Locker 2. • Folding Tables – Two very small folding tables are stored in the

seat locker on the Flybridge. A larger folding aluminum camp table is stored in Deck Locker 1.

• Whisk broom and dust pan – under kitchen sink. • Broom & Deck Mop – a broom is stored in Deck Locker 4. The

deck mop is usually hanging on the rail next to flybridge stairs. • Shop Vac – Stored in starboard salon seat locker… use only on

Shore power. • Marine Knots Book – Along with numerous books about cruising and naviga/on, there is a small

book on how to /e common knots used in Boa/ng. It has excellent pictures to help anyone learn (or remember) how to /e common knots used in boa/ng.

33. KAYAKS We offer two high quality, lightweight, stable, sit-inside sea kayaks. They have comfortable seats, adjustable foot pegs and two water/ght hatches. One is an Eddyline 11’9” “Rio” (35 lbs.). It is designed for smaller framed kayakers (up to approx. 5’5” tall & 150 lbs). The other is an Eddyline 12’ “Skylark” (41 lbs.). It is wider and designed for larger framed kayakers up to 6’5” tall and 250 lbs. Both kayaks are stored in padded racks mounted on the INSIDE of the port and starboard deck railings. There are two light weight “break-apart” paddles stored in the seat locker on the Flybridge. (sprayskirts are NOT included.)

NOTE: These kayaks are available ONLY ON REQUEST 2 WEEKS IN ADVANCE

HOW TO LAUNCH THE KAYAKS 1. First, get your gear ready, PFD on and assemble your 2-part paddle. Verify BOTH

water/ght hatch covers are securely acached on the kayaks. ✴ NOTE: Be sure to wear a NON-INFLATABLE PFD.

2. Lower the swim ladder at the bocom of the PORT transom steps BEFORE pu=ng a kayak in the water on that side. ✴ CAUTION: If the port transom swim ladder is NOT lowered, its metal tubing will

gouge the kayak. 3. Lio and carry each kayak down the nearest transom steps and put it in the

water so the cockpit is next to the steps. (This works best with 2 people.) Acach the kayak’s short deck line (with carabiner) to the nearest ver/cal grab rail at the bocom of the steps as /ght as possible to help stabilize the kayak when you enter it.

4. Park your paddle under the bungie cords on the kayak’s deck. Holding onto the step’s grab rails, either sit on the last step and slide into the kayak, OR carefully step down into and sit down with your legs inside the cockpit.

5. Detach the short deck line and head out on your way.



HOW TO EXIT & STORE THE KAYAKS 1. Paddle up to the transom steps. Connect your short deck line

/ghtly to the ver/cal transom grab rail. 2. Climb out of the kayak onto the lowest step. Put your paddle on

the boat deck. 3. Pick up the kayak and carry it up and carry it back into its rack. 4. Empty any gear out of the kayak, /ghtly close the hatches and

put the paddles away. 5. Verify the black twist knobs holding the kayak racks to the rail

stanchions are firmly /ght.

APPENDIX

A. ENGINE SPACES VS. COMPARTMENTS & BLOWERS ENGINE “SPACE” VS. ENGINE “COMPARTMENT”

In the stern of each hull underneath the berth, there is a large area we call the “Engine Space”. It contains the engine compartment, the prop shao (with its “Dripless” seal), bilge pump, start bacery, rudder post, and hot water tank (port side only). The engine compartment itself has a removable white fiberglass front cover, a top Air Intake cover and an ao Firewall. The front of the engine is easily accessed from the berth hallway. It is unlikely you will ever need to access this full Engine Space during your cruise. But, if does become necessary get in there, follow the instruc/ons in the next sec/on.

ENGINE COMPARTMENT BLOWERS Both engine spaces have quiet, energy efficient DC blowers that run automa/cally to reduce heat and diesel fumes when the engines are running. They ac/vate automa/cally when the engines are turned ON and go OFF when they stop. If the temperature inside the Port engine compartment exceeds 110º AFTER stopping, both blowers will run-on for another 30 minutes. The Starboard blower is mounted on the hull wall just behind the engine. Its air flow exits out a vent on the Starboard transom steps. The Port engine blower is permanently acached to the removable AFT fire wall at the back of that engine. Its air flow exits out a vent on the Port transom steps. HOW TO RUN THE BLOWERS MANUALLY The two blowers can also be ac/vated manually by turning ON the DC “ENGINE ROOM BLOWERS” breaker. The blowers will run for 30 mins on a Omer and then automa/cally shut off. This is useful to clear out warm air or diesel fumes that may s/ll exist aoer the engines have shut down. ✴ NOTE: If you turn the “ENGINE ROOM BLOWERS” breaker ON manually, remember to turn the breaker

OFF AFTER the blowers stop… (the breaker does NOT automatically reset itself to OFF).



B. ACCESSING THE FULL ENGINE SPACES In the event you do need to get in there, the process on each side is similar with a few differences.

TO ACCESS THE PORT ENGINE SPACE 1. Fold the outer half of the memory foam pad toward

the head of the bed. Slide the outer macress sec/on on top of the folded memory foam pad. Slide the 1” Hypervent layer on top of the macresses.

2. Place the AFT wood board covering the engine space on top of the stack of Hypervent, macresses and memory foam.

3. Using the FORWARD wood board for support, reach DOWN in back of the firewall and DISCONNECT the 12v DC power cable to the blower (it is a pair of wires with a quick-disconnect fi=ng on the LEFT side of the blower). Then, loosen velcro strap securing the BLUE exhaust hose to the blower (leave the strap secured around the hose so as not to lose it). Push the hose back on top of the water heater.

4. Stack the FORWARD wood board on top of the macress sec/ons. Pull UP on the edges of the white fiberglass Air Intake Cover to remove it and stack it on the wood boards.

5. Slide the engine’s AFT firewall and acached blower UPWARD and stack it on top of the pile. You now have full access to the port engine space.

6. REVERSE the sequence to exit this engine space. Be sure to SLIDE the firewall down carefully so it locks into place, re-connect the power cable to the blower, and secure the BLUE exhaust hose to the blower with its velcro strap. Put the two wood boards back in place to cover the engine compartment. Replace the “Hypervent”, macress and memory foam pad.

TO ACCESS THE STARBOARD ENGINE SPACE Accessing this space is similar, but easier because of the the exhaust blower on this side is acached to the hull of the boat behind the engine, NOT to the firewall as in the PORT compartment: 1. Flip the outer half of the memory foam pad toward the head of the bed so the en/re pad lays

folded in half on top of the inside macress sec/on. 2. Slide the outer macress sec/on on top of the folded memory foam pad. Slide the 1” Hypervent

layer on top of the stacked macresses. 3. Remove and place the two wood boards covering the engine space on top of the stack. 4. Remove the white fiberglass Air Intake Cover and place it on top of the wood panels. 5. Finally, lio the ao engine firewall upward and place it on top of the fiberglass air intake. Now you

have full access to the port engine and the space behind it. 6. REVERSE this process to exit this engine space. Be sure to slide the firewall properly back in place.



C. HYDRAULIC RUDDER REALIGNMENT PROCEDURE Both rudders are controlled by a hydraulic pump that powers independent steering cylinders acached to each rudder post. Because the rudders are not mechanically connected, it is normal for them to become slightly misaligned aoer 15-20 hours of opera/on. This is caused by small amounts of air moving around in the steering hydraulic lines. It is not a hydraulic leak. This condi/on increases over /me and gradually makes steering more difficult. It is easily corrected by periodically conduc/ng the following procedure. RUDDER REALIGNMENT PROCEDURE This procedure takes about 2 minutes. It is easy if two people do it – one at the lower helm and the other at the hydraulic valve handle. FIRST, BE SURE BOTH ENGINES ARE OFF. Open the house bacery compartment in the deck in front of the salon door. Locate the black hydraulic valve handle ao of the baceries and do the following: PART 1: (TURNING WHEEL TO STARBOARD) 1. TURN helm wheel all the way to STARBOARD un/l resistance is felt. 2. OPEN the hydraulic valve handle a quarter turn counter-clockwise (from 12

o’clock to 9 o’clock facing ao). 3. TURN wheel firmly further to STARBOARD un/l resistance is felt. 4. CLOSE the hydraulic valve handle back to its 12 o’clock posi/on. PART 2: (TURNING WHEEL TO PORT) 5. TURN helm wheel all the way to PORT un/l resistance is felt. 6. OPEN the hydraulic valve handle a quarter turn counter-clockwise (from 12 o’clock to 9 o’clock

facing ao). 7. TURN wheel firmly further to PORT un/l resistance is felt. 8. CLOSE the hydraulic valve handle back to its 12 o’clock posi/on. 9. Replace the bacery compartment cover and return the helm wheel to amidships. That’s it!

D. SERVICING A RACOR FUEL FILTER The Racor fuel filter for each engine is located in the small cabinet next to the engine compartment cover (where extra engine oil is stored). In the unlikely event that you see debris or a separa/on of water and fuel in the bocom of the glass collec/on container, the contaminants should be drained and the filter should be replaced. ✴ WARNING: Contact San Juan Yachting BEFORE attempting this process to determine if it is actually necessary.

Find replacement Racor filter in the plas/c bin under the floorboard at the bocom of the steps to starboard berth and follow these steps:

TO REMOVE CONTAMINANTS FROM THE RACOR FILTER HOUSING 1. Be prepared to catch any fuel from the filter with a small container and rags. 2. CLOSE the fuel shut-off valve to the Racor filter (under the salon entry

floorboards). 3. Remove the safety plug at the bocom of the drain valve. Slowly open the valve

to evacuate just the water or contaminants. Quickly re-/ghten the valve and reinstall the safety plug.

4. OPEN the engine fuel shut-off valve and start the engine.



TO CHANGE A RACOR FILTER 1. Be prepared to catch any fuel from the filter with a small container and rags. 2. CLOSE the fuel shut-off valve for the engine (under the salon entry floorboards). 3. Slowly unscrew the T-handle on the filter housing lid, remove the lid and slowly remove the filter

element from the housing. Dispose of old filter. 4. Carefully insert the new replacement filter, change the big gasket and small O-ring on the lid, if

possible, add diesel fuel to eliminate air, replace lid, and /ghten T-handle (hand /ght). 5. OPEN the fuel shut-off valve and start the engine. Check for fuel leaks. Correct any leaks with the

engine off.

E. TOOLS, SUPPLIES & SPARE PARTS TOOLS & TOOL KITS (stored under floorboard in front of Head door)

• Red tool kit – a standard toolkit with a wide variety of everyday tools & a Volt/Ohm meter. • Black tool kit – assortment of ratchet, open-end wrenches and other small tools. • Large Black tool kit – assortment of heavy duty ratchet wrenches, sockets and tools. • Portable LED 12V rechargeable shop light & 12’ AC extension cord. It can be recharged with the

USB charger stored with the spare baceries bin in the cabinet behind the chart table. • Special Wrenches – The small red “Strap” wrench for removing an engine Salt Water Strainer lid

is stored in the RED toolkit. • Lewmar wrench – for /ghtening the windlass “gypsy” is hanging on a hook behind the remote

windlass control holster in Deck Locker 3. SUPPLIES

• Engine oil and absorb pads – located in cabinet next to each engine compartment cover. More oil & pads are in a plas/c “Engine Supplies” bin in Deck Locker 4.

• 50/50 pre-mixed engine coolant – A small container of 50/50 pre-mix coolant is located in the cabinet next to the Port engine cover. A 1-gal. container of 50/50 pre-mix coolant is in a bin in Deck Locker 4. This pre-mixed coolant should only be used IF the coolant in the expansion reservoir is BELOW the “LOW” line and ONLY WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD.

• Various small parts – engine filters (oil & fuel), bulbs & fuses, nuts & bolts, electrical wiring connectors, 30amp/20amp adapter, hose clamps, gaskets, duct tape, etc. are stored in a plas/c bin under the floorboard at the bocom of the steps by the starboard berth.

• Spare bameries – AA, AAA, C and 9V size baceries are located in a plas/c container in the cabinet above the window behind the chart table.

SPARE PARTS (SEE SEPARATE INVENTORY LIST FOR DETAILS AND LOCATIONS) A variety of spare parts are located in a bin in Deck Locker 4: • PUMPS: bilge, fresh water, macerator, toilet, washdown • MOTORS: engine starter, spare V-style belt for Starboard engine’s Hitachi alternator, and a spare

Serpen/ne belt for the Port engine’s Balmar alternator. • ELECTRICAL: 50 o. Power cable; remote mic for VHF radio • ENGINE PROPS: 2 spare Yanmar engine props, a spare prop nut, zinc anodes. • OUTBOARD: Prop, cocer pin, carburetor, water pump, etc. (in separate bin)



F. TRANSFERRING FUEL BETWEEN TANKS On longer cruises (10 days or more), it may be necessary to transfer fuel from the AUXILIARY tank to the MAIN tank. The AUX Fuel Tank is located under Deck Locker 2 on the foredeck. The transfer procedure is simple and can be done with the engines ON or OFF. It requires two people: 1. Helm: Open the front center window slightly so you can talk

with your Mate on the foredeck. Turn the DC “Fuel Transfer Pump” breaker on the main panel ON and the DC “Instruments” breaker on the Sub-Panel ON.

2. Mate: Open Deck Locker 2 on the foredeck and remove enough gear so you can access the fuel transfer valve at the back of the tank. Move the small sec/on of white grid at back of tank enough so you can access the valves. The “Fuel Transfer" valve is on the LEFT (it is labeled)… open it by sliding the metal locking clip back and rotate the handle 90º so it points forward INLINE with the black fuel hose. (See photo)

3. Mate: The fuel transfer pump is mounted on the port side wall inside Locker 2. It has a toggle switch built into the pump with 3 posi/ons – PUMP FUEL AFT / OFF / PUMP FUEL FORWARD. When ready to transfer fuel, flip the toggle switch so it points AFT to start the fuel transfer FROM the Aux. tank TO the Main tank. ✴ NOTE: The other two valves, “Fuel Overflow” and “Webasto Heat

Fuel”, are always left OPEN. 4. Helm & Mate: It takes 10-15 mins to transfer most of the

fuel in the Aux. tank to the Main tank. STOP when the Helm person can see the MAIN tank gauge is steady on “FULL”, OR when the AUX tank gauge is at 1/4 tank. DO NOT FULLY EMPTY THE AUX FUEL TANK. ✴ CAUTION: Failing to stop transferring fuel after the MAIN fuel tank is FULL can cause a fuel overflow out the

stern air vent. A very messy environmental issue. ✴ WARNING: FULLY EMPTYING the AUX fuel tank can create an airlock in the fuel lines which could make

the engines hard to start. IF an airlock occurs, flip the fuel pump switch FORWARD to transfer FUEL back into the forward AUX tank until the gauge shows about ¼ FULL.

✴ NOTE: Remember, this fuel is also used to run the Webasto heating system. 5. Mate: When you are finished transferring fuel, turn the Fuel Transfer pump toggle switch to the

OFF (center) posi/on. BE SURE TO CLOSE THE FUEL TRANSFER VALVE HANDLE. Replace the white wire grid and put the gear back in the locker. Lastly, turn OFF the “Fuel Transfer Pump” breaker on DC Panel.



G. TWO ESSENTIAL BOATING KNOTS

• CLEAT HITCH – Experienced boaters consider a proper CLEAT HITCH to be the most secure way to fasten a dock line to a cleat. It is simple and effec/ve… the more the boat pulls, the /ghter it gets, yet it’s easy to release when wet. It’s ooen called “2 Lines Under a Bridge”.

• CLOVE HITCH WITH 2 HALF HITCHES – A simple Clove Hitch is ooen used for securing fenders to a rail. However, a clove hitch can EASILY SLIP. To make it secure, add two half hitches to the standing end (2nd picture on right).

H. WINDLASS – CONTROLLED FREE-FALL & MANUAL ANCHOR RECOVERY CONTROLLED FREE-FALL

It is highly unlikely that you will need to do this. But, emergency situa/ons can occur where dropping the anchor quickly in a controlled free-fall might be needed. For example, you might need to do this for quick anchor deployment in an emergency involving loss of power. To do a controlled free-fall release, you will need the Lewmar wrench — stored on a hook behind the Lewmar Windlass remote control holster inside Deck Locker 3. Here are the steps: 1. DISENGAGE the Windlass circuit breaker by pushing the bucon to release the lever arm. 2. Insert the Lewmar wrench onto the

capstan drive cap and gradually rotate it counter-clockwise to loosen the gypsy clutch just enough to allow the anchor to drop. Carefully control the anchor’s rate of descent – to slow or stop gypsy, /ghten the clutch by turning the capstan drive cap clockwise.

3. To return the windlass back to powered opera/on, lock the clutch by rota/ng the capstan drive cap clockwise un/l /ght and remove the wrench handle. Then, engage the Windlass circuit breaker and press the UP bucon on the remote. ✴ NOTE: If the clutch nut is not tight, the internal clutch mechanism will rotate freely.

MANUAL ANCHOR RECOVERY Use this method ONLY in the event of a loss of power to the windlass AND if you need to recover a VERY SHORT amount of anchor chain manually.

✴ WARNING: Please be aware that raising a substantial amount of anchor chain manually is a very difficult and physically exerting process. We recommend you should call San Juan Sailing/Yachting for assistance…

1. Turn the Windlass breaker OFF before manually opera/ng capstan and ensure capstan drive cap is /ght so the clutch is locked.

2. Insert the Lewmar wrench or a standard 12mm (1/2”) drive ratchet socket into the socket end of the driveshao on the opposite site of the windlass from the gypsy. Using the wrench, rotate the driveshao clockwise to retrieve the anchor.

3. Once anchor is retrieved, secure the anchor chain to the center deck cleat with the RED SNUBBER LINE. Then remove the wrench handle and lock the anchor to the bow roller with its LOCK PIN.


ah owners notes v9.0 050121 - san juan sailing

Documents