PLAN YOUR TRIP

Welcome to Cyprus........ 222 Top Experiences ....... 6Need to Know ................. 18What’s New ..................... 20If You Like ........................ 21Month by Month ............. 23Life Outdoors .................. 25Itineraries ........................ 33Eat & Drink Like a Local ... 37Travel with Children ....... 41Regions at a Glance ....... 43

YOUR PLANNING TOOL KIT

Photos, itineraries, lists and suggestions

to help you put together your perfect trip

UNDERSTAND CYPRUS

Cyprus Today ................. 214History ............................. 216The Cypriot Way of Life ... 229Cyprus’ Natural

Environment ................ 232The Arts........................... 237

Cyprus Today Peace Talks, the Never-Ending Cycle? Since its division in 1974, talks to reunite Cyprus have taken p ace s ora ica y with little success. They were revived in 2008, when the Re

ublic’s resident Demetris Christo as promised to work with the thenTurkish Cy riot leader Mehmet Ali Talat, generating over 100 meetingsTheir attem ts at camaraderie, aimed at creating a climate of eace’, be

UKCYPRUS GREECE

population per sq km

≈ 86 people

20-cyprus-today-cyp5.indd 214 03/11/2011 17:20

1974reek junta organises

coup. Turkish army invades, taking a

third of the island. Archbishop’s Palace is the scene of much

ghting. Makarios resumes presidency.

Cyprus is divided thereafter.

Turkish esta

indeadmini

naming Rauf as its leader.

and Cleriagree on a po

exchange North an

bullets. The shots came from the nearby Turkish Cypriot gufrom bushes sheltering armed soldiers. Solomos’ death wasreplayed at the viewing points that overlook the tragic site o

CH

RIS

CH

RIS

TO/LO

NE

LY PLA

NE

T IMA

GES

©

» Archbishop’s Palace

21-history-cyp5.indd 227 03/11/2011 15:50

Crossing the Line Experiencing the intrinsically di erent Greek and Turkish societies of modern Cyprus is increasingly easy for visitors. To date, there are seven access points linking the Greek Cypriot and Turkish Cypriot sides, including two pedes trian

i i L fk i I h f i

beaches, including everythiand windswept to family packed. Every conceivableis also on o er, from scubwatery depths to skimming a kite- or windsurf board. Tblue? Head to the interior wmountains, sweeping valley

Welcome to Cyprus

00-welcome-to-cyprus-cyp5.indd 2 03/11/2011 11:44

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go!”TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

PAGE

2

PAGE

213GET MORE FROM YOUR TRIP

Learn about the big picture, so you

can make sense of what you see

Pafos & the West Beaches Sites Nature

Best Beaches You can still nd unspoiled beaches here, especially on the Akamas Penin-sula. Closer to Pafos, there are more pleasant stretches, many with adjacent tavernas, where you can grab a bite over-looking the surf.

Magnificent Mosaics The Pafos Archaeo-logical Site, with its superb mosaics, should be your rst stop, but don’t make it your only one; visit the other sites, including the Tombs of the Kings and the

Lefkosia (Nicosia)

Activities Nightlife Beaches

Water Sports & Swimming One of the world’s top-10 diving wrecks is just o the coast at Larnaka, plus there is plenty of scope for snorkel-ling, windsur ng, kite-boarding, boat rides and swimming (particularly around the sea caves).

Nightlife Although it has tamed down a double measure, or more, since its wild heyday, Agia Napa still has the most concentrated (and spirited) nightlife on the island

Larnaka & the East

Museums Shopping Restaurants

Museums & Galleries The island’s best, the Cyprus Museum, should not be missed. Folk art, local history, Otto-man memorabilia and world-class art can also be enjoyed in the culturally rich capital.

Superb Shopping Shift your credit card into overdrive with the New City’s extensive choice of classy shops. For more unusual nds, head for the idiosyn-cratic small shops in the backstreets of

10-regions-at-a-glance-cyp5.indd 44 03/11/2011 11:49

Need to Know Currency

» Republic of Cyprus: euro (€)

» Northern Cyprus: new Turkish lira (YTL)

Languag » Republic

Cypriot Gre

» NorthernTurkish

High Season (Jun–Aug, public holidays)

» Accommodation books out; prices increase up to 30%.

Shoulder Season (Mar–Jun & Sep–Oct)

» Ideal time to travel; pleasant weather and fewer crowds.

Low Season (Nov–Feb)

» Skiing in the Troödos.

» Can be wet and cool or pleasantly

When to Go Your Budge Budget

€60 » Budget h

room (withbathroom)

» Excellenand supermself-catere

» Check ouwith free eplus free toorganised w

Midrang

€60120

» Double rmidrange h

» Three-codecent restplus wine

» Top musgalleries anaverage €6

Top End

€12

18

02-need-to-know-cyp5.indd 18 03/11/2011 11:44

JanuaryWeather-wise January is generally mild, but the Troödos mountains can be snow-capped, so remember to pack your skis. Tourism is down and some resort-based restaurants and hotels are closed.

�z Agia Napa Cultural Winter

Enjoy free concerts, recitals and dance performances every Thursday at 8pm at the Agia Napa Municipal Conference Hall (www.agianapa.org.cy).

February The weather is mild, so good for cycling and hiking the trails (although it can be wet). It’s also fiesta time with the high-octane annual carnival.

z

March Enjoy wildflowers, particularly orchids, with more than 32 endemic varieties. Birdwatching, hiking and the occasional sunbed on the sand make this a good month for a springtime break.

�z Nicosia International

Documentary Film Festival View the cherry-picked international documen-taries at this excellent festival; great for getting a perspective on Cypriot issues (www. lmfestival.com.cy).

April The temperature can be perfect but you can expect crowds and a hike in flight and accommodation prices: it’s school-holiday time

with elaborate oral decorations, culminating in a spectacular rework nale.

May A great month to visit with plenty of towel space on the sand, an average temperature of 26°C, and warmer evenings for dining alfresco.

�z Bellapais Music Festival

Centred on Bellapais Abbey, this festival starts waving the baton on 21 May with concerts and recitals (www.bellapaisfestival.com).

June The weather is a delight with an average of 11 hours of sunshine daily. Book accommodation well ahead: it’s the start of the serious summer hols.

2 Cl i C

05-month-by-month-cyp5.indd 23 03/11/2011 11:46

I SBN 978 -1 -74179 -775 -6

9 781741 797756

99915

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PHRASEBOOK

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY

Josephine Quintero, Matthew Charles

YOUR COMPLETE DESTINATION GUIDE

In-depth reviews, detailed listings

and insider tips

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Directory A-Z .................. 246Transport ........................ 254Language ........................ 261Index ................................ 279Map Legend .................... 287

VITAL PRACTICAL INFORMATION TO

HELP YOU HAVE A SMOOTH TRIP

ON THE ROAD

Electricity

240V/50Hz

Embassies & Consulates Countries with diplomatic representation in the Republic of Cyprus are listed below. All missions are in Lefkosia. Australia (%2275 3001; www.embassy.gov.au/cy.html; cnr Leoforos Stasinou & Annis Komninis 4) Canada (%2277 5508; info@consulcanada.com.cy; Lambousa 1) France (%2277 9910; www.ambafrance-cy.org; Ploutar-chou 12, Engomi) Germany (%2245 1145; www.nikosia.diplo.de; Nikitara 10) Greece (%2268 0645; www.greekembassy-cy.org; Leoforos Lordou Vyronos 8 10)

Smoking » Prohibited in all bars and restaurants.

25-directory-cyp5.indd 247 03/11/2011 17:16

PAGE

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245

p1984Accommodation

Every listing is recommended by our authors, and their favourite places are listed first

LEMESOS & THE SOUTH COAST . . . . . .48LEMESOS (LIMASSOL) . . . 49AROUND LEMESOS . . . . . . 58Pissouri Bay & Village . . . . 60Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s Rock & Beach) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60Ancient Amathous . . . . . . . . 61Episkopi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61Ancient Kourion . . . . . . . . . . 61Sanctuary of Apollon Ylatis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .62Kolossi Castle . . . . . . . . . . . .62Akrotiri Peninsula . . . . . . . . .63

TROÖDOS MASSIF . . . . . . . . . . . .64Troödos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .65Platres . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69Around Platres . . . . . . . . . . .70Marathasa Valley . . . . . . . . . 71Solea Valley . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76Pitsylia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78Agros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80Around Pitsylia & Agros . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

PAFOS & THE WEST . . . . . . . . . .82PAFOS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83AROUND PAFOS . . . . . . . . . 92Coral Bay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .92AKAMAS HEIGHTS . . . . . . . 93Dhrousia, Kritou Terra & Around . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .93

F No payment required

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation S A green or

sustainable option

On the Road

See the Index for a full list of destinations covered in this book.

Kathikas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Pano Akourdalia & Kato Akourdalia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94Avgas Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . . 94AKAMAS PENINSULA . . . . . 95Polis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .97Baths of Aphrodite . . . . . . . 99TYLLIRIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Pomos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100Pahyammos . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Kokkina (Erenköy) . . . . . . . 101Kato Pyrgos . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101Psokas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102Kampos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102WESTERN TROÖDOS . . . . 103Pano Panagia . . . . . . . . . . .103Cedar Valley . . . . . . . . . . . .103

LARNAKA & THE EAST . . . . . . . . . .104LARNAKA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105AROUND LARNAKA . . . . . 113Kamares Aqueduct . . . . . . 113Hala Sultan Tekke (Tekkesi) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Larnaka Salt Lake . . . . . . . 114Kiti & Around . . . . . . . . . . . 114Stavrovouni Monastery . . . 114Choirokoitia . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116Lefkara . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116AGIA NAPA . . . . . . . . . . . . . .117AROUND AGIA NAPA . . . . 122Palaces & Sea Caves . . . . .122Cape Greco . . . . . . . . . . . . .122Paralimni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122

Deryneia. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122Dekelia Sovereign Base Area. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123The Kokkinohoria . . . . . . . .123Pyla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123Protaras . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .123Pernera. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .124

LEFKOSIA (NICOSIA) . . . . . . . . . 125LEFKOSIA (NICOSIA) . . . .126AROUND LEFKOSIA . . . . .144Ancient Tamassos . . . . . . .144Monastery of Agios Irakleidios . . . . . . . . . . . . . .145Agios Mamas Church at Agios Sozomenos . . . . .146Maheras Monastery . . . . . .146Mesaoria Villages . . . . . . . . 147

NORTH NICOSIA (LEFKOŞA) . . . . . . . . 148

KYRENIA (GIRNE) & THE NORTHERN COAST . . . . . . . . . . . . 160KYRENIA (GIRNE) . . . . . . . 161AROUND KYRENIA & THE RANGES . . . . . . . . . . . 167St Hilarion Castle . . . . . . . .169Bellapais (Beylerbeyi) . . . . 170Buffavento Castle . . . . . . . 172Panagia Absinthiotissa Monastery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172Alevkaya Herbarium . . . . . 172KYRENIA WEST . . . . . . . . . 174Lapta (Lapithos). . . . . . . . . 174

THE NORTHWEST . . . . . . . 174Koruçam (Kormakitis) Peninsula . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175Morfou (Güzelyurt) . . . . . . 176Gemikonaği (Karavostasi). . . . . . . . . . . . 176Lefke (Lefka) . . . . . . . . . . . . 176Ancient Soloi . . . . . . . . . . . . 177Ancient Vouni . . . . . . . . . . . 178

FAMAGUSTA (MAĞUSA) & THE KARPAS (KIRPAŞA) PENINSULA . . . . . . . . 179FAMAGUSTA (MAĞUSA). . 182AROUND FAMAGUSTA . . . 187Ancient Salamis . . . . . . . . .188Ancient Enkomi (Alasia). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191İskele (Trikomo) . . . . . . . . . 191Boğaz (Bogazi) . . . . . . . . . .193KARPAS (KIRPAŞA) PENINSULA . . . . . . . . . . . . 193Kantara Castle . . . . . . . . . .194Yenierenköy (Yiallousa) . . .195Sipahi (Agia Triada) . . . . . .195Dipkarpaz (Rizokarpaso) . . . . . . . . . . .196Agios Filon & Afendrika . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196Monastery of Apostolos Andreas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .196Zafer Burnu (Cape Apostolos Andreas) . . . . . . 197

ACCOMMODATION . .198

OUR STORYA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their fi rst travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offi ces in Melbourne, London and Oakland, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

Josephine Quintero Coordinating Author; Lemesos & the South Coast, Pafos & the West, Lefkosia, North Nicosia Josephine has visited Cyprus many times and fi nds that the island continually throws up surprises, although there is one constant: the genuine friendliness of the locals, on both sides of the Green Line. Highlights during this trip included sipping coff ee and chatting to locals (including, inevitably, the village priest) in simple village tavernas in the Akamas Heights. She also discovered

some soul-stirring art in Lefkosia galleries and Byzantine churches, and rediscovered the irresistible appeal of the traditional meze, especially when washed down with local Cypriot wine from one of the growing number of wineries in the Troödos.

Matthew Charles Troödos Massif, Larnaka & the East, Kyrenia & the Northern Coast, Famagusta & the Karpas Peninsula Matthew fi rst travelled to Cyprus in 1997 to seek out his ancestral roots in Pafos. He ended up falling in love with the island and staying for four years, before returning to his native Australia. Since then he has returned to the island and made Larnaka his home. When he is not writing for Lonely Planet he can be found dreaming up plots, frappé in hand, on one of the many

beaches, or playing basketball in the sunshine.

Read more about Josephine at:lonelyplanet.com/members/josephinequintero

Read more about Matthew at:lonelyplanet.com/members/matthewcharles

OUR WRITERS

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9835th edition – March 2012ISBN 978 1 74179 775 6© Lonely Planet 2012 Photographs © as indicated 201210 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Itiner-aries

Whether you’ve got six days or 60, these itineraries provide a starting point for the trip of a lifetime. Want more inspiration? Head online to lonelyplanet.com/thorntree to chat with other travellers.

Two WeeksTop Spots in the Republic of Cyprus

Fly into Larnaka and kick back on the beach, then visit the Pierides Museum and explore the town. Day three, head for Lefkosia, to spend a couple of days getting to know the historical centre with its museums, shops and traditional restaurants. Reward yourself with a soothing massage at the hammam (Turkish baths). Day fi ve,

go to the mountainous Troödos to trek, cycle, stroll, explore the tavernas or admire the exquisite Byzantine churches.

Roll down to Lemesos, stopping off at Neolithic Choirokoitia. Spend a couple of nights enjoying the varied sights and superb restaurants of the island’s second city. Next day, visit nearby Ancient Kourion. Make sure you take a dip at the mythic Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s Rock & Beach).

On day 11, head to Pafos, with its mosaics and mysterious Tombs of the Kings. Base yourself in traditional agrotourism accommodation on the Akamas Peninsula, near some of the loveliest stretches of sand in the South, such as Lara Beach. Fly home from Larnaka or Pafos.

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10 DaysFrom Karpas to Akamas: Spanning the Peninsulas

From Larnaka airport head for the Karpas (Kιrpaşa) Peninsula, some-where that will linger in your memory for years to come. This ‘tail end’ of the island has positively the best beaches, deserted and clean, with soft, golden sand. Turtles hatch at Golden Beach (Nangomi Bay), where there’s an offi cial

turtle-hatching programme, and wild donkeys, once Cyprus’ equivalent of a lorry and even a currency, roam the endless fi elds. Spend at least two days here, including visiting the eco village at Büyükkonuk, climbing Kantara Castle and bedding down at one of our recommended hotels.

Head back to the South via Ancient Salamis, the North’s most impressive archaeo-logical site. Dip into the sea at the adjacent beach before lunching at one of nearby Famagusta’s atmospheric restaurants in the heart of the walled city, overlooking the Lala Mustafa Paşa mosque. Move on and stay overnight in Larnaka. Spend a day exploring the city, not forgetting the fascinating salt lake, a magnet for migrant birds, including fl amingos. The next day, hightail it to Lemesos for some of the most sophisticated dining choices on the island. Stay overnight and make an early start heading inland to the Troödos Massif to work off all those calories with some scenic striding out. This region off ers some of the island’s best hiking opportunities, with four marked trails. After a night or two in bucolic surroundings, continue on the nature trail via the Cedar Valley, taking a soul-searching culture break at the Kykkos Monastery en route.

Stop at pretty Fyti for a meal at the central taverna; pick up some souvenir stitchery and stay at one of the nearby agrotourism accommodation options, surrounded by greenery and birdsong. Continue this point-to-point peninsula tour by stopping at traditional villages, like Simou, Drouseia and Ineia, from where you can drive westwards to Lara Beach, the South’s best beach and, like the Karpas beaches, also a turtle-hatching zone. You are now on the Akamas Peninsula, ideal for trekking, swimming and getting to know the region’s rural life. The rocky Mediterranean landscape is home to the area’s typical juniper bushes and low pines and, together with Lara, some wonderfully wild and windswept beaches.

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10 DaysA Journey Through Northern Cyprus

Providing you fl y into Ercan airport, the fi rst most obvious port of call will be Famagusta. And a suitably evocative fi rst stop it is too, with its Venetian walls, looming and ruined Gothic buildings and Cyprus’ best-preserved Lusignan monu-ment, the magnifi cent Lala Mustafa Paşa mosque. Enjoy at least one meal at the

Ginkgo Cafe & Restaurant, one of the best of the sprawling terrace restaurants here. From Famagusta, dig deeper into the past by heading north to Ancient Salamis, a spectacular ancient site which you’ll need at least two hours to explore. After the exertion of absorbing all that ancient history, head to the adjacent beach and cool down with a dip in the sea.

Follow the highway to the capital, North Nicosia, and spend a day or two exploring its Old City. Take in highlights like the Büyük Han and Selimiye Mosque then, time permit-ting, enjoy a rejuvenating massage at the Büyük Hammam. Next, base yourself in pretty Bellapais (Beylerbeyi), appreciating why Lawrence Durrell made this village his home for so many years. Admire the ruins of Bellapais Abbey, then visit nearby, equally dreamy St Hilarion Castle. Spend a day or two in picturesque Kyrenia, eating excellent seafood, exploring the dark caves of Kyrenia Castle and seeing the oldest shipwreck in Cyprus. Con-sider a boat cruise, a fi shing trip or scuba-diving to the watery depths with one of the many seafaring companies operating from the harbour.

Next, head west to Ancient Soloi and Ancient Vouni. Return to Kyrenia and drive east, hiking up to Buff avento Castle, one of the three Lusignan castles perched atop the Kyrenia Range. Continue eastwards down the coast and take the winding road up to Kantara Castle, from where there are stunning views. Wind up your tour with a drive down to the most beautiful part of the island, the Karpas (Kιrpaşa) Peninsula, ideal for lovers of wild landscapes. This area has the island’s best beaches, such as Golden Beach (Nangomi Bay), where turtles come to hatch. Fly home from Ercan airport, via the Turkish mainland.

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One WeekEssential Northern Cyprus

Fly into Pafos and head north for a fl op on the unspoilt sandy stretch of Kissonerga Bay. Next day, dig deep into the island’s past at the extra-

ordinary Pafos archaeological site and nearby Tombs of the Kings. After dark, dine alfresco and head for the latest hot spot for a drink and a dance. Day three, set off across country northeast for a day of wine tasting in the Troödos region and stay in tranquil agrotourism accommodation overnight. Then, leave all that nature behind and head for the fascinating capital, Lefkosia, for a day exploring the historic old city with its traditional cafes, intriguing museums and hubble-bubble whiff of the Middle East. Continue your journey by stop-ping in Larnaka, absorbing its workaday bustle and fi lling your hand baggage with crafts bought direct from the workshops in the atmospheric former Turkish district. Continue your circular tour with a visit to Lemesos, with its stylish and compact old town that’s home to some of the island’s fi nest restaurants. Take a hiccup west for a visit to the Cyprus Wine Museum before continuing on to Pafos and your fl ight back home.

One WeekRelaxing in the Republic

Fly into Ercan and make your fi rst stop Kyrenia; this is the Mediterra-nean as it used to be – a picturesque stone harbour, ending abruptly at a

looming Byzantine castle. Splash out and stay at a waterfront hotel for two (or even three) nights. Before moving on, consider getting up close and personal with the natural beauty of the region by hiking part of the spectacular Kyrenia Mountain Trail. For the best overview of your surroundings, head for Bellapais (Beylerbeyi), home of a lovely August inian monastery with endless views of the surround-ing mountains. Stay overnight, then backtrack to Kyrenia, via St Hilarion Castle, and travel the northwest coast, stopping at pretty Lapta (Lapithos), and windswept Horse Shoe Beach for some superb fresh seafood at the beachside restaurant here. History buff s can make an archaeological detour south west to visit Ancient Vouni and Ancient Soloi; other-wise, hit the road to North Nicosia, spending a day here visiting the sites, before continuing to Famagusta and the captivating surrounds ofthe Karpas (Kιrpaşa) Peninsula. Enjoy the beaches and stay overnight at the unspoilt fi shing village of Boğaz (Bogazi) before returning to Ercan, via Ancient Salamis, for your fl ight home.

36

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