ALSOBYJULIACHILD

MasteringtheArtofFrenchCooking,VolumeI(withSimoneBeckandLouisetteBertholle)TheFrenchChefCookbook

MasteringtheArtofFrenchCooking,VolumeII(withSimoneBeck)FromJuliaChild’sKitchen

JuliaChild&Company(withE.S.Yntema)JuliaChild&MoreCompany

(withE.S.Yntema)TheWaytoCook

CookingwithMasterChefs

InJulia’sKitchenwithMasterChefs(withNancyVerdeBarr)JuliaandJacquesCookingatHome

(withDavidNussbaum)MyLifeinFrance(withAlexPrud’homme)

TheseareBorzoiBooks,publishedinNewYorkbyAlfredA.Knopf.

Contents

Acknowledgments

Introduction

SoupsandTwoMotherSaucesPRIMALSOUPS

LeekandPotatoSoup

STOCKS

LightChickenStock

SimpleBeefStock

FishStock

SOUPSMADEFROMSTOCKORCANNEDBROTH

ChickenSoupwithVegetables

MediterraneanFishSoup

ScotchBroth

CREAMSOUPS

CreamofMushroomSoup

FAT-FREECREAMSOUPSWITHPURÉEDRICE

RutabagaSoupSoubise—withRiceandOnionPurée

CHOWDERS

TheChowderSoupBase

TWOOFTHEMOTHERSAUCES

BéchamelSauce

HollandaiseSauce

SaladsandTheirDressingsSALADGREENS

MixedGreenSalad

SALADDRESSINGS

BasicVinaigretteDressing

ChoppedHard-BoiledEggs—SaladMimosa

CurlyEndivewithBaconandPoachedEggs

WarmDuckLegSalad

MAINCOURSESALADS

SaladeNiçoise

ChickenSalad

PastaSalad

American-StylePotatoSalad

COLESLAWANDOTHERVEGETABLESALADS

ColeSlaw

CeleryRootRémoulade

GratedBeetSalad

CucumberSalad

VegetablesTHEBLANCH/BOILSYSTEMFORGREENVEGETABLES

BLANCH/BOILVEGETABLECHART

STEAMEDVEGETABLES

AHANDFULOFSTEAMEDVEGETABLES

THEBOIL/STEAMSYSTEMFORVEGETABLES

BOIL/STEAMVEGETABLECHART

ROASTEDORBAKEDVEGETABLES

TomatoesProvençal

BakedWinterSquash

BakedEggplantSlicesandEggplant“Pizza”

CauliflowerauGratin

SAUTÉEDVEGETABLES

SautéedMushrooms

Pipérade—SautéedPeppersandOnions

GratedSautéedZucchini

GratedSautéed/SteamedBeets

BrownOnion“Marmalade”

BRAISEDVEGETABLES

BraisedCelery

BraisedEndives

SweetandSourRedCabbage

POTATOES

MashedPotatoes

SteamedWholePotatoes

BoiledSlicedPotatoes

ScallopedPotatoes—GratinDauphinois

SautéedDicedPotatoes

TheBestGratedPotatoPancakes

FrenchFries

RICE

PlainBoiledWhiteRice

DRIEDBEANS

DriedBeansPreliminary—theQuickSoak

Open-PotBeanCookery

PressureCookerBeans

Crock-PotorSlow-CookerBeans

Illustrations:Part1

Meats,Poultry,andFishSAUTÉING

SautéedBeefSteaks

Calf’sLiverandOnions

FilletsofSoleMeunière

ThickPorkChops

ThickVealChops

SautéofBeefTenderloin

SautéofPorkTenderloin

ChickenSautéedinWhiteWine

BROILING

BroiledButterfliedChicken

BroiledFishSteaks—About¾InchThick

LambBrochettes

BroiledFlankSteak

BroiledHamburgers

ButterfliedLegofLamb

Roast/BroiledButterfliedPorkLoin

ROASTING

RoastPrimeRibsofBeef

RoastTopLoin(NewYorkStrip)ofBeef

RoastTenderloinofBeef

RoastLegofLamb

ImportedLegsofLamb(NewZealand,Iceland,etc.)

RackofLamb

RoastLoinofPork

MeatLoaf

RoastChicken

Steam-RoastedDuck

Steam-RoastedGoose

RoastWholeFish

STEWING,BRAISING,ANDPOACHING

STEWING

PotauFeuBoiledDinner

BRAISING

BeefBourguignon—BeefinRedWineSauce

LambStew

LambShanks

Ossobuco

FISHANDSHELLFISH—POACHINGANDSTEAMING

FishFilletsPoachedinWhiteWine

SeaScallopsPoachedinWhiteWine

PoachedSalmonFillets

WholeSteamedSalmon

SteamedLobsters

EggCookeryTheFrenchOmelet

ScrambledEggs

PoachedEggs

ShirredEggs

EggsBakedinRamekins

Hard-BoiledEggs

SOUFFLÉS

SavoryCheeseSoufflé

DESSERTSOUFFLÉS

VanillaSoufflé

SAVORYCUSTARDS

IndividualBroccoliTimbales—MoldedCustards

MOLDEDDESSERTCUSTARDS

CaramelCustard

CUSTARDDESSERTSAUCESANDFILLINGS

CrèmeAnglaise—ClassicCustardSauce

FloatingIsland

PastryCream—CrèmePâtissière

Sabayon

ClassicChocolateMousse

Illustrations:Part2

Breads,Crêpes,andTartsBREADS

BasicDoughforWhiteBread,FrenchBreads,Pizzas,andHardRolls

ToFormandBake2LongFrenchLoaves

BakingintheBreadMachine:WhiteSandwichBread—PaindeMie

TWODESSERTSBASEDONBREAD

AppleCharlotte

CinnamonToastFlan—aBreadPudding

CRÊPES—PAPER-THINFRENCHPANCAKES

All-PurposeCrêpes

ROLLEDCRÊPES:SAVORYANDDESSERTROULADES

SavorySpinachandMushroomCrêpeRoulades

StrawberryDessertCrêpes

LAYEREDCRÊPES:SAVORYANDDESSERTGÂTEAUX

SavoryTowerofCrêpeswithLobster,Broccoli,andMushrooms

DessertGâteauofCrêpesàlaNormande

CrêpesSuzette

TARTS

All-PurposePieDough—PâteBriséeFine

FormingaTartShell

PrebakingaShell—“BlindBaking”

QuicheLorraine

AppleTart

TheFamousUpside-DownAppleTarteTatin

CakesandCookiesCAKES

GénoiseCake

TheGenoaAlmondCake—PaindeGênes

LeBrantôme—aWalnutLayerCake

LaReinedeSaba—theQueenofShebaChocolateAlmondCake

Meringue-NutLayerCakes—Dacquoise

FILLINGSANDFROSTINGS

ItalianMeringue

ChocolateGanache

SoftChocolateIcing

Brandy-ButterCakeFilling

ApricotFilling

COOKIES

Cat’sTongues—LanguesdeChat,Finger-ShapedSugarCookies

P.S.BISCUITS

Baking-PowderBiscuits

KitchenEquipmentandDefinitionsKITCHENEQUIPMENT

OvalCasseroles

Saucepans

BakingDishes

Chef’sSkilletandSautéPan

KnivesandSharpeningSteel

WoodenSpatulasandRubberScrapers

WireWhipsorWhisks

BulbBasterandPoultryShears

TheVegetableMill(orFoodMill)andGarlicPress

TheFoodProcessor

MortarandPestle

Heavy-DutyElectricMixer

DEFINITIONS

Sauces,Soups,andStocks

Roasts

Casseroles

Acknowledgments

Thisbookrepresentssomefortyyearsofhappycollaborationoncookerywith colleagues and friends.The idea for it camewhenwedecided tomakeatelevisionspecialoutofsnippetsfrommyearliershowsstartingwith thevery firstone, “BoeufBourguignon,” that famousFrenchbeefstew,whichairedFebruary11,1963,onBoston’s“educational”station,WGBH.Youcan’thaveafoodshowwithoutabooktogowithit—hencethis volume. It is with deepest appreciation that I acknowledge thefollowingangelswhomadeitallpossible.MycontinuinggratitudegoestoJudithJones,whohasbeenmyeditor

sincethebeginningofmycookbooklife.Hers is theconceptionof thisbook, and it is she who carefully went over each suggestion, eachchapter andparagraph, yes, and even each sentence.Her remarks andsuggestions are golden, and her advice is treasured.My admiration ofJudith as an editor and my affection for Judith as a person areboundless.David Nussbaum, my collaborator, has done a magnificent job of

gathering and sifting throughmaterial from all the various shows andbooks. He has done testings and comparisons, made outlines andsuggestions,andalwayspresentedmewithdetailedmaterialeminentlyreadytoworkon.Thebook, literally,couldnothavebeendoneatall,andcertainlynotbythedeadline,haditnotbeenforDavid.My special thanks go to Geoffrey Drummond, producer of the two-

hourPBStelevisionspecialJulia’sKitchenWisdom thatgaverisetothisbook.Geofandhiseditor,HerbSevush,wentthroughmilesofoldtapetopickoutjusttherightepisodestoshow,andtheneditedthemallintoalivelywhole.Geof’scompany,ALaCarteCommunications,Inc.,withNat Katzman, also produced my last four series, Cooking with MasterChefs,InJulia’sKitchenwithMasterChefs,BakingwithJulia,andJacquesandJuliaCookingatHome,aswellastwoCookinginConcertPBSspecialswith Jacques Pépin. Segments from all of these shows appear in thepresentspecial.Wehavealwayshadagreattimeworkingtogether,and

myadmirationandaffectionforGeofareinfinite.ContinuingandenthusiasticthankstoPublicTelevisionformakingmycareer possible. I simply would not have existed without them, and Iverymuch appreciate the support and the freedom that PBS offers itsparticipants.Howluckywearethatitexists!Sincere thanks tomanywhohave helpedme through the years andwhoseworkhasmeantmuchtothesuccessofourTVspecialaswellastotherecipesinthisbook:WilliamA.Truslow,Esq.,myfamilylawyerandfaithfulfriend.RussellMorash,myfirstproducer,whostartedusoutonTheFrenchChefandkeptusgoingthroughtheJuliaChild&Companyseries; and Marian Morash, The Victory Garden Cook and our firstexecutivechef.RuthieLockwood,sometimeproducerofTheFrenchChef,uniquepersonaldirector,andvaluedfriend.RosemaryManell, talentedfooddesignerforphotographyaswellastelevision,andrecipedeveloperfor many of the shows and books. The wonderfully talented SarahMoulton, sometime executive chef on our Company series. StephanieHersh,mylongtimeassistantandfriend,withoutwhommyofficewouldbeamessandmylifebothdullandindisarray.A project of this magnitude cannot happen without the support ofgeneroussponsors,andthisisparticularlytrueofPublicTelevision.Iamproud thatwe are associatedwith theRobertMondaviWinery,whosepioneeringspiritandgenerosityhavemadeCaliforniawinesrecognizedthroughouttheworld.Iamdelighted,too,thatmyfavoritespread,LandO’LakesButter,iswithusagain—weusedanincredible573poundsofitonourBakingwithJuliaseries.AndmuchofthatgoodbutterfindsitswayintothepotsandpansofAll-CladMetalcrafters,ourfinalsponsor.Heartfeltthankstoyou,allthree.

Toujoursbonappétit!

Introduction

Sooftenyoucanbeinthemidstofcookingandyoujustcan’trememberwhetherthatlegoflambshouldroastina325°ora350°Foven,andforhow long.Or you’ve forgotten justwhat youdo tounmold a jelly-rollcake, or the system that so successfully brings back the hollandaisesauce.Thisbookaims togivequick, snappyanswers tomanyof thosequestions.Itwon’tbyanymeansanswereverything,anditdoesn’tgointosuch

complicatedsubjectsasFrenchpuffpastry,forwhichyouneedpagesofinstruction and numerous photographs. In other words, it doesn’tpretendtotaketheplaceofabig,detailed,all-purposecookbooklikemyWaytoCookorMasteringtheArtofFrenchCooking,VolumesIandII.Itis,rather,aminiaide-mémoireforgeneralhomecookery,andisaimedat those who are tolerably familiar with culinary language; whosekitchensarenormallywellequippedwithsuchstaplesasjelly-rollpans,afoodprocessor,adecentrollingpin;andwhoknowtheirwayaroundthestovereasonablywell.Itbeganasmyloose-leafkitchenreferenceguidegraduallycompiled

frommyowntrials,remedies,anderrors—correctedasI’vecookedmywaythroughtheyears.Nowthatithasevolvedintoabook,informationisarrangedaccordingtothelargecategoriesofsoups,eggs,bread,andsoforth,withtheemphasisontechnique.Whetheracrêpeisrolledwithmushroomsforamaincourseorwithstrawberriesfordessert,allcrêpedishesaremadeinmuchthesameway,sotheyarealltogetherinonechapter. The same goes for soufflés, tarts, meats, and the rest of themenu. In the roasting section, for instance, the master recipe, thoughbrief,detailsthetechniquefordealingwithalargepieceofmeat.Herethe master recipe is for roast beef, and is followed by still briefervariations for other roasts such as leg of lamb, roast chicken, turkey,freshham, and even a bigwhole fish. They all cook in essentially thesameway,thoughsmalldetailsdiffer.Thesameistrueforsoufflésandtarts; and green vegetables are grouped in two convenient chartsaccording tomethod.Onceyouhavemastereda techniqueyouhardly

needlookatarecipeagain,andcantakeoffonyourown.IfyouhavewatchedthePBStelevisionspecialthatwastheinspirationfor this book, you will note that the recipes demonstrated there areincludedherebutthatthemethodoringredientsareoftennotquitelikethose on the screen.Many of those recipeswere conceived years ago.Take the garlic sauce formashed potatoes as an example. Thatwas agoodsystemfor its time,butan involvedone.Here it ismuchsimplerandequallygood,ifnotevenbetter.Athoroughprofessionalindexisessentialforthiskindofbook.Whenyou have a question, for instance, just look it up by subject, such as“Chocolate,aboutmelting,”or“Mayonnaise,abouttroubleshooting,”or“SoleMeunière,”or“fryingpans,”andsoforth.Myownlittleloose-leafservedmewell,andIamhopingthisbookversionwillgiveyou,too,aswell as me, many of the essentials needed for brief instruction andproblemsolving.

JuliaChildCambridge,Massachusetts

SoupsandTwoMotherSauces

“Onceyouhavemasteredatechnique,youhardlyneedlookatarecipeagain.”

Homemadesoupsfillthekitchenwithawelcomeair,andcanbesofulland natural and fresh that they solve that always nagging question of“whattoserveasafirstcourse.”

PRIMALSOUPSThese are the basic soups, the least complicated, and often the mostloved.

MASTERRECIPE

LeekandPotatoSoup

Forabout2quarts,serving6

3cupsslicedleeks(whiteandtendergreenparts;seeboxbelow)

3cupspeeledandroughlychopped“baking”potatoes

6cupswater

1½tspsalt

½cupsourcreamorcrèmefraîche,optionalBringingredientstotheboilina3-quartsaucepan.Coverpartiallyand

simmer20to30minutes,untilvegetablesaretender.Correctseasoning.Serveasis,orpurée,and/ortopeachportionwithadollopofthecream.

VARIATIONS

ONION AND POTATO SOUP. Substitute onions for leeks, or use acombination. CREAM OF LEEK AND POTATO SOUP. After simmering the preceding soup,purée it andwhisk in½cupheavycream.Reheat to the simmer

againbeforeserving. WATERCRESS SOUP. Add a bunch of washed watercress leaves andstems to the base soup for the last 5minutes of cooking. Purée.Garnishwithascatteringoffreshwatercressleaves.COLD SOUPS, suchasvichyssoise.Puréeanyof theabove,stir in½cupcream,andchill.Correctseasoningjustbeforeserving;stir inchilledcreamifyouwish.Topeachbowlwithmincedfreshchivesorparsley(orfreshwatercressleaves).SOUPEDU JOUR.Meaningaddanythingelseyouhaveonhand,suchascauliflower,broccoli,greenpeas,spinach,cookedorraw.Thisishowyoumaycomeupwithsomeofyourownmarvelousideasandsecret“houserecipes.”

HOWTOPREPARELEEKS.Trimofftherootends,keepingtheleavesattached.Cutofftopssotheleeksare6to7incheslong.Starting½inchfromtherootandkeepingleavesattached,sliteachleeklengthwiseinhalfandtheninquarters.Washundercoldrunningwater,spreadingtheleavesaparttorinse off all dirt. Leeks can be braised whole or sliced crosswise intopiecesforsoup.Tojulienne,cutleekscrosswiseinto2-inchpieces,pressleavesflat,andslicelengthwiseintomatchsticks.

TO PURÉE A SOUP.Tousean immersionblender, set themachineupright inthecenterbottomofyoursouppan,turnitonandmoveitaround,butdonotbringittothesurface.Tousethefoodprocessor,strainthesoupand turn the solids into the processor, adding to them a little of theliquid, then process, adding a littlemore liquid as needed. To use thevegetablemill,strainthesoupandaddthesolidsgraduallytothemill,passingthemthroughwithsmalladditionsoftheliquid.

STOCKS

LightChickenStock

Bringtothesimmerinwatertocoveracollectionofrawand/orcookedchickenbones, trimmings,gizzards,andnecks(butno livers).Skimoffscumthatrisestothesurfaceforseveralminutes,thensaltverylightly.Cover loosely and simmer for 1 to 1½hours, addingwater if needed.Youmay alsowish to include chopped onions, carrots, celery (½ cupeach for every 2 quarts of bones), and an herb bouquet. Strain anddegrease.To make a “strong chicken stock,” boil it down to concentrate itsflavor.Whenthestockiscool,coverandeitherrefrigerateforseveraldaysorfreeze.

VARIATIONS

TURKEY, VEAL, OR PORK STOCK. Proceed as for the light chicken stock,above. HAM STOCK. For 2 quarts of ham bones and scraps, include 1 cupeachofchoppedcarrots,onions,andcelery,andanherbbouquetconsisting of 3 imported bay leaves, 1 teaspoon thyme, and 5wholeclovesorallspiceberries.Proceedas for thechickenstock,butsimmerabout3hours.BROWNCHICKEN,TURKEY,ORDUCKSTOCK.Chopthebonesandscrapsinto½-inchpiecesandbrowninhotoil ina fryingpan,andforevery2quartsofthemadd½cupeachchoppedcarrots,onions,andcelerystalks.Whennicelybrowned, transfer to aheavy saucepan. Skimfat out of frying pan, pour in cup of drywhitewine, and scrapecoagulated browning juices into it, then pour into the saucepan,addingchickenstockand/orwatertocoveringredients.Includeanherbbouquet,saltlightly,andcoverloosely.Simmer,skim,strain,anddegreaseasforthelightchickenstock.

SimpleBeefStock

Arrange a collection ofmeaty raw and/or cooked beef bones, such asshank,neck,oxtail,and/orknuckle,inaroastingpan,adding(forevery2to3quartsofbones)½cupeachofroughlychoppedonions,celery,

and carrots. Baste lightly with vegetable oil and brown for 30 to 40minutesina450°Foven,turningandbastingwithoiloraccumulatedfatseveraltimes.Scoopbonesandvegetables intoastockpot.Pourfatoutof roasting pan and deglaze with 2 cups of water, simmering andscrapingupcoagulatedjuices.Pourintopot,addingcoldwatertocoveringredientsby2inches.Addmorechoppedonion,celery,andcarrot(½cupeach for every2 to3quartsofbones), a chopped fresh tomato,2large cloves of smashed unpeeled garlic, and amediumherb bouquet.Bringtothesimmer,skimoffscumforseveralminutes,andcontinueasfortheprecedingchickenstock,butsimmer2to3hours.

VARIATIONS

BROWNVEAL, PORK,OR LAMB STOCK.Proceedasforbeefstock,above,butomitthecarrotsforlambstock.

FishStock

Wash fresh fish frames (bones and head,minus gills) from leanwhitefish suchas cod,hake, flounder,halibut, sole. (Donot adddark skin.)Chopintopieces.Bringtothesimmerinalargepotwithwatertocoverby1 inch.Skimoff scumfora fewminutes, salt lightly,cover loosely,andsimmer30minutes.Strain.Boildowntoconcentrate flavor.Coverwhencool,andrefrigerateforadayorfreeze.

USINGCANNEDBROTHSANDBOUILLONS.Todisguiseyouruseofthecan,simmerthebrothfor15to20minuteswithahandfulofmincedcarrots,onions,andcelery and perhaps a bit of dry white wine or dry white Frenchvermouth.NOTE: Iuse the termsbrothandbouillon interchangeably,whether freshorcanned;stockreferstohomemade.

COOKINGWITHORWITHOUTWINE.Forredwine,useayoung,fullwinesuchasazinfandeloraChianti.Whitewinesshouldbedryandfull-bodied,suchasasauvignon,butbecausemanyofthewhitesaretooacid,Ipreferto

useadrywhiteFrenchvermouth.Inadditiontoitsstrengthandquality,itkeepsnicely.Port,Madeiras,andsherriesmustbedry.Ifyoudonotwishtocookwithwine,simplyomitit,oraddstockormoreherbs.

SOUPSMADEFROMSTOCKORCANNEDBROTH

MASTERRECIPE

ChickenSoupwithVegetables

Forabout2½quarts,serving6to8

8cupschickenstockorcannedchickenbroth

1importedbayleaf

½cupdrywhitewineordrywhiteFrenchvermouth

1cupeachjulienneorfinediceofonion,celery,whiteofleek,andcarrot

2bonedandskinnedchicken-breasthalves

Saltandpepper

Bring stock or broth to the simmer with the bay leaf, wine, andvegetables; simmer 5 to 6 minutes, or until the vegetables are justtender.Meanwhile, cut the chicken into thin slices, and the slices intojuliennematchsticks 1½ inches long. Fold them into the soup and letsimmer just aminuteor two,until cooked through.Correct seasoning,thenletsitfor15to20minutes,allowingthechickentoabsorbflavors.Servehotwithmelbatoastorbutteredtoastpoints.

VARIATIONS

BEEFANDVEGETABLESOUP. Inalargesaucepan,sauté1cupeachfinelydicedonion,celery,carrot,andleekfor2minutesinbutter.Pourin2quartsbeefstockorcannedbouillon.Add½cupdicedturnip;½cuporzo(rice-shapedpasta),quick-cookingtapioca,orrice;and,ifavailable,anycookedandchoppedbeefshankoroxtailmeatleft

frommaking beef stock. Simmer 10minutes.Meanwhile, blanchforaminuteorso1½cupsshreddedgreencabbageleaves;drain,chop,andaddtosoupwith¾cuppeeled,seeded,dicedtomato.Ifyou’ve not usedmeat, add also¾ cup cooked or canned red orwhitebeans.Reheat to the simmer fora fewmoments; season totaste,andserve.FRENCHONIONSOUP.Inalargesaucepan,slowlysauté2quartsthinlysliced onions in 3 tablespoons butter and 1 of oil for about 20minutes, until softened. Stir in ½ teaspoon each salt and sugar;sauté 15 to 20 minutes more over moderate heat, stirringfrequently, until goldenbrown. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons flour overonionsandcookslowly,stirring,for2minutes.Offheat,whiskin2cups hot beef stock or canned beef broth and ¼ cup cognac orbrandy.Whenwell blended, stir in 2 quartsmore stock or brothand1cupdrywhitewineordrywhiteFrenchvermouth.Simmer,looselycovered,for30minutes.Seasontotaste,andserve. ONION SOUP GRATINÉE. Line the bottom of a large casserole orindividualcrockswithhard-toastedFrench-bread rounds (seeboxbelow); topwith thin slices of Swiss cheese. Ladle the hot onionsoupoverthem,floatmoretoastroundsontop,andcoverwithalayer of grated Swiss or Parmesan. Bake in a 450°F oven 20minutes,oruntilcheeseismeltedandbrowned.

HARD-TOASTED FRENCH-BREADROUNDS—CROÛTES.Forabout18,made froma16-inchbaguette.Slicethebread¼-inchthickanddryoutfor25to30minutesin a 325°F oven, until light brown and crisp. You may wish to paintthemwitholiveoilhalfwaythrough.

MediterraneanFishSoup

Forabout3quarts,serving8.Sauté1cupeachslicedleeksandonionsin¼cupoliveoiluntilalmosttender.Stirin2ormorelargeclovesofchoppedgarlic;3cupspeeled,seeded,androughlychoppedtomatoes;atablespoonoftomatopaste;2piecesdriedorangepeelifavailable;and½ teaspoon each dried thyme and fennel seeds. Simmer another 5

minutes.Pourin2quartsfishstockorlightchickenstock.Stirinapinchofsaffronifavailable.Seasonlightly,andbringtotheboil;simmerfor20minutes.Meanwhile,makearouille(redgarlicsauce;seeboxbelow),and cut into2-inch chunks3pounds (6 cups)of skinless andbonelessleanfish,suchascod,halibut,seabass,monkfish.Whenalmostreadytoserve,addthefishtothesoup,bringtotheboil,andcookaminuteorso, justuntil fish turnsopaqueand is springy to the touch.Spread therouille on hard-toasted French-bread rounds and place in soup bowls.Ladle on soup and fish, sprinkle with chopped parsley and gratedParmesancheese,andserve,passingmorerouilleseparately.

ROUILLE—RED GARLIC SAUCE. To accompany fish soups, boiled potatoes, eggs,poachedfish,pastas—andforallgarliclovers.Inaheavybowl,purée6to8largemincedclovesofpeeledgarlictoafinepastewith¼tspsalt.Pound in 18 large leaves fresh basil, chopped;¾ cup lightly pressed-downfreshbreadcrumbs;3tablespoonssoupbaseormilk.Whenpasteissmooth,poundorbeatin3eggyolks.Switchtoanelectricmixerandbeatin⅓cupdicedcannedredpimiento,andbydriblets,asformakingmayonnaise,¾to1cupfruityoliveoil, tomakeastrong, thicksauce.Seasonwithsalt,pepper,andTabasco.AÏOLI. Omit the pimiento here, and you have the famous garlic sauce,aïoli.

ScotchBroth

Forabout2quarts,serving6.Bring2quartslambstock,or lambstockpluschickenbroth,tothesimmer.Stirin½cupbarley,lentils,oralmostcookedwhitebeans(oraddcannedbeanslater),and½cupeachdicedonion, turnip, and carrot. Fold in 1 cup peeled, seeded, and dicedtomato.Coverlooselyandsimmerabout15minutes,untilvegetablesaretender;seasontotaste.Stirin3tablespoonschoppedparsley,andserve.

CREAMSOUPS

MASTERRECIPE

CreamofMushroomSoup

Forabout2quarts,serving6

4Tbsbutter

1cupmincedonionorwhiteofleek

¼cupflour

1cuphotchickenstock

6cupsmilk

1quartfreshmushrooms,trimmed,washed,anddiced

¼tspdriedtarragonleaves

½cupormoreheavycream,sourcream,orcrèmefraîche,optional

Saltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Dropsoflemonjuice,optional

Sprigsoffreshtarragonorslicesofsautéedfreshmushroomcaps,forgarnish

The Soup Base. Sauté the onion or leek slowly with the butter in aheavy-bottomedcoveredsaucepan,for7to8minutes,untiltenderandtranslucent.Blendintheflourandcookslowly2or3minutes,stirring.Off heat, gradually whisk in the hot stock. Bring to the simmer overmoderateheat,andwhiskinthemilk.The Mushrooms. Blend in the mushrooms and dried tarragon, andsimmer 20 minutes, stirring frequently to prevent scorching. Stir inoptional cream, simmer briefly, then season to taste, adding drops oflemon juice if needed. Garnish with tarragon sprigs, or with sautéedmushroomslicesfloatedoneachserving.

CRÈME FRAÎCHE—FRENCH SOURCREAM.This isunpasteurizedheavycreamallowedtofermentnaturally.Youcansimulateiteitherbyblending1tablespoonofsourcreamintoacupofheavycreamandallowingittofermentandthickenatroomtemperature,orbywhiskingtogetherequalamountsof

sourcreamandheavycreamuntilthickened.Thecreamwillkeepforaweekunderrefrigeration.

TOKEEPCREAMSOUPSANDSAUCES.Topreventaskinfromformingonthesurfaceofflour-thickenedsoupsandsauces,stirthemupeveryfewminutes.Or,tokeep longer, floata filmofmilkor stockon the surfaceby fillingalargespoonwiththeliquid,layingthespoonflatonthesurfaceasyoutip it, then spreading the liquid over the surfacewith the back of thespoon.

VARIATIONS

CREAM OF BROCCOLI SOUP. Prepare the soup base as described above.Meanwhile,separatethesmallbudsandstemsfrom1or2headsofbroccoli(about1½pounds)andsetthemaside.Peelandslicethestems,andboil themover½inchofwater.Puréetheminafoodprocessorwith1cupofthesoupbase,thenfoldintotheremainingsoup. Simmer the reserved tender buds briefly in the broccoli-boiling liquid; refresh in cold water to set color; drain, and setaside; justbeforeserving,reheatbrieflyinatablespoonofbutter.Rapidlyboildownthecookingliquiduntilreducedto½cup,andadd to the soup base. When ready to serve, heat soup to thesimmer, stirring, for 2 to 3minutes with up to½ cup of heavycreamorsourcream.Correctseasoningandserve,decoratingeachportionwithbroccolibuds.CREAMOFASPARAGUSSOUP.Boil2poundspeeledfreshasparagusspearsuntil almost tender. Refresh in cold water and cut off about 2tender inchesat the tipof each spear.Cut thebudendsoffeachtip,slicebudsinhalforquarters,andreserveforgarnish—sautéingthembrieflyinbutterbeforeserving.Reservetherestofthetipstopuréelater,andchopuptheremainingstalks.Addthesestalkstocook with the onions for the soup base, and purée the finishedsoupbase throughavegetablemill toeliminate coarseasparagusstrings. Purée the reserved tips (not buds!) and add to the soup

base. Simmer with ½ cup or so of heavy cream or sour cream,correctseasoning,andtopeachportionwiththesautéedasparagusbuds.CREAMOFCARROTSOUP.Trimandpeel8medium-sizecarrots.Reserveoneforgarnish.Choptherestroughlyandaddthemtocookwiththeonionsinthesoupbase.Shavereservedcarrotintostripswithavegetablepeeler;steamoverboilingwaterseveralminutesuntiltender.Decorateeachservingwithaclusterofwarmcarrotstrips.OTHERVARIATIONS.Adaptothervegetablessuchasspinach,parsnips,celery,broccoli to thesamesystem,andseealso thenext sectionusingaricepurée.

FAT-FREECREAMSOUPSWITHPURÉEDRICEYou can follow this system with any of the preceding cream soups:ratherthanusingabutter-and-flourrouxforthickening,yousimmerricein the soup base until very tender.When it is turned into a very finepuréeintheelectricblender,youhaveadeliciouslycreamy,literallyfat-freecreamsoup.

MASTERRECIPE

Rutabaga Soup Soubise—withRice andOnion PuréeFor about 2¼quarts,serving8

¾cupslicedcelerystalks

1½cupsslicedonions

2cupslightchickenstock

⅓cuprawwhiterice

4cupsadditionalliquid—lightchickenstockandmilk

1½quarts(2½pounds)peeledandroughlyslicedrutabaga

Saltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Optional:sourcreamorcrèmefraîche,andchoppedparsley

TheRiceandOnionSoupBase.Simmertheceleryandonionsinthe2

cupsofchickenstockuntilverytenderandtranslucent—15minutesormore.Stirintherice,andtherestoftheliquid.TheRutabaga,andFinishingtheSoup.Stirintherutabaga,bringtothe

simmer, season lightly, and simmer loosely covered for about 30minutes, or until both rutabaga and rice are very tender. Purée inbatchesintheelectricblender.Reheat,correctseasoning,andtopeachserving,ifyouwish,withaspoonfulofsourcreamorcrèmefraîche,andasprinklingofchoppedparsley.

VARIATIONS

CREAMOF CUCUMBER SOUP.Forabout2¼quarts,serving6to8.Peel4large cucumbers, save half of one for garnish, halve the restlengthwise, and scoop out seeds with a spoon. Chop the halvesroughlyand tosswith2 teaspoonseachofwinevinegarandsalt;let stand while the celery and onions have their preliminarysimmer.Thenturnthechoppedcucumbersandtheirliquidintothesoup base with the rice, and finish the soup as described in thepreceding recipe. To serve, garnish with a dollop of cream,cucumberslices,andasprinklingoffreshdillweed.CREAMOFCHICKENSOUPWITHVEGETABLES.Combinetherice-and-onionsoupbasewiththechicken-and-vegetablesoup,usingonly4cupsoftheliquidcalledforinthechickenrecipe.

CHOWDERSTraditionalchowdersallstartoffwithaheartysoupbaseofonionsandpotatoes,andthatmakesagoodsoupjustbyitself.Tothisfragrantbaseyouthenaddchunksoffish,orclams,orcorn,orwhateverelseseemsappropriate. (Note:Youmay leaveout theporkandsubstituteanothertablespoonofbutterforsautéingtheonions.)TheChowderSoupBaseForabout2quarts,tomakea2½-quartchowderserving6to8

4ounces(⅔cup)dicedblanchedsaltporkorbacon

1Tbsbutter

3cups(1pound)slicedonions

1importedbayleaf

¾cupcrumbled“common”orpilotcrackers,or1pressed-downcupfreshwhitebreadcrumbs

6cupsliquid(milk,chickenstock,fishstock,clamjuices,oracombination)

3½cups(1pound)peeledandslicedordicedboilingpotatoes

Saltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Sautétheporkorbaconbitsslowlywiththebutterinalargesaucepanfor5minutes,oruntilpiecesbegintobrown.Stirintheonionsandbayleaf;cover,andcookslowly8to10minutes,untiltheonionsaretender.Drainofffatandblendcrackersorbreadcrumbsintoonions.Pourintheliquid;addthepotatoesandsimmer,looselycovered,for20minutesorso, until the potatoes are tender. Season to taste with salt and whitepepper,andthesoupbaseisready.

CHOWDERSUGGESTIONS

NEWENGLANDCLAMCHOWDER.Forabout2½quarts,serving6to8.Scrubandsoak24medium-sizehard-shellclams(seeboxbelow).Steamthemfor3to4minutesinalargetightlycoveredsaucepanwith1cup water, until most have opened. Remove the opened clams;cover, and steam the rest another minute or so. Discard anyunopenedclams.Pluckmeatfromtheshells,thendecantsteaming-liquidverycarefully,soallsandremainsinthesaucepan;includetheclam-steamingliquidaspartofthechowderbase.Meanwhile,mince the clammeats ina foodprocessoror chopbyhand.Foldthem into the finishedchowderbase.Justbefore serving,heat tobelowthesimmer—sotheclamswon’tovercookandtoughen.Foldinalittleheavycreamorsourcreamifyouwish;thinwithmilkifnecessary,correctseasoning,andserve.

TOPREPARECLAMS.Scruboneatatimeunderrunningwater,discarding

any that are cracked, damaged, or not tightly closed. Soak 30minutesinabasinofsaltedwater(⅓cupsaltper4quartswater).Liftout,andifmorethanafewgrainsofsandremaininthebasin,repeat.Refrigerate, coveredbyadamp towel.Use themwithinadayortwo.

FISH CHOWDER. Prepare the chowder base using fish stock, and/orlight chicken stock, and milk. Cut into 2-inch chunks 2 to 2½pounds of skinless, boneless lean fish, such as cod, haddock,halibut,monkfish, or seabass, all onekindor amixture.Add tothe finished chowder base and simmer 2 to 3minutes, just untilfish is opaque and springy. Correct seasoning, and top eachserving,ifyouwish,withaspoonfulofsourcream. CHICKEN CHOWDER. Substitute boneless, skinless chicken breasts forfish,andmakethechowderbasewithchickenstockandmilk. CORN CHOWDER. Prepare the chowder base using 6 cups of lightchickenstockandmilk.Stir3cupsorsoofgratedfreshcornintothefinishedbase,adding,ifyouwish,2greenand/orredpepperschoppedfineandsautéedbrieflyinbutter.Bringtothesimmerfor2 to 3 minutes; correct seasoning, and top each serving, if youwish,withaspoonfulofsourcream.

TWOOFTHEMOTHERSAUCESClassicalFrenchcookingdividesthesaucefamilyintothebrownsauces,thebéchamelorwhitesauces,tomatosauce,thehollandaiseoregg-yolk-and-butter sauces, the mayonnaise or egg-yolk-and-oil sauces, thevinaigrettes, and the flavored butters such as beurre blanc. We havebrownsaucesandflavoredbuttersinthemeatchapter,tomatosaucesinthevegetablechapter,mayonnaiseandvinaigrettesinthesaladchapter,andherearebéchamelandhollandaise.

MASTERRECIPE

BéchamelSauceFor2cups,medium-thick

2Tbsunsaltedbutter

3Tbsflour

2cupshotmilk

Saltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

Pinchofnutmeg

Meltthebutterinaheavysaucepan,blendintheflourwithawoodenspoon,andcookovermoderateheat,stirring,untilbutterandflourfoamtogetherfor2minuteswithoutturningmorethanabutteryyellowcolor.Removefromheat,andwhenbubblingstops,vigorouslywhiskinallthehot milk at once. Bring to the boil, whisking. Simmer, stirring, for 2minutes.Seasontotaste.

VARIATIONS

VELOUTÉ SAUCE. Follow the master recipe for béchamel sauce, butwhiskinhotchickenorfishstock,meatjuices,orvegetablebrothplusmilkifneeded.

MASTERRECIPE

HollandaiseSauceForabout1½cups

3eggyolks

Bigpinchofsalt

1Tbslemonjuice

2Tbscoldunsaltedbutter

2sticks(8ounces)unsaltedbutter,meltedandhot

Moresalt,andfreshlygroundwhitepeppertotaste

Beattheeggyolkswithawirewhiskinastainless-steelsaucepanforaminuteortwo,untiltheythickenlightlyandturnlemon-colored.Whiskinthepinchofsalt,lemonjuice,and1tablespooncoldbutter.Setovermoderately low heat and whisk continuously at moderate speed,

removingpanfromtheheatnowandthentomakesuretheyolksaren’tcookingtoofast.Whentheyclingtothewiresofthewhiskandyoucanseethebottomofthepanbetweenstrokes,removefromheatandstirinthesecondtablespoonofcoldbutter.Startbeatinginthemeltedbutterbylittledribletsatfirst,untilagood½cupofthesaucehasthickened,then add it a little more quickly as the sauce thickens into a heavycream.Tasteandcorrectseasoning.

TROUBLESHOOTINGHOLLANDAISESAUCE.Ifyouhaveaddedthebuttertoofastfortheeggyolkstodigestit,orifyou’vekeptthesauceoverheattoolong,itcan thinoutor separate.Tobring itback to its creamystate,whisk itbriefly to blend, and dip a tablespoonful into a bowl. Whisk in atablespoon of lemon juice and whisk vigorously until creamy. Thenwhiskinverylittledribblesoftheturnedsauceatfirst,notaddingmoreuntil the previous addition has creamed and the sauce begins toreconstitute.

MACHINE-MADEHOLLANDAISE. Thehandmade sauce is easy and relatively quickwhenyouareusedtoit,butyoumayprefertheelectricblender.Usethesamesystem,butit’ssodifficulttotryandgetmost—neverall—ofthatsticky sauce out of the blender! And then you have to reheat it.However, if it’s tobeamachineIprefer the foodprocessor,andIalsorecommendtheprocessorformayonnaise.

VARIATIONS

BÉARNAISESAUCE.Forabout1cup.Bring¼cupeachofwinevinegaranddrywhitewineordrywhiteFrenchvermouthtotheboilinasmallsaucepan,adding1tablespoonmincedshallots,½teaspoondried tarragon, and ¼ teaspoon each of salt and freshly groundpepper. Boil rapidly until the liquid is reduced to 2 tablespoons;strain,ifyouwish,pressingliquidfromseasonings.Substitutethisessenceforthelemonjuiceintheprecedingmasterrecipebutadd

only1½sticksofbutterinall,tomakeanauthoritativesauce.Youmaywish to stir chopped fresh tarragon leaves into the finishedsauce.

SaladsandTheirDressings

“TheperfectvinaigretteissoeasytomakethatIseenoreasonwhatsoeverforbottleddressings.”

Althoughwealwayshavewithusthosehard-corepuristswhoprofesstoeatfreshproduceonlywhenitislocally“inseason,”now,withmodernpackaging, state-of-the-art refrigeration, and rapid transport, we canhavealmosteverykindoffreshproduceallyearround.Wehavenotyetsolved the tomato problem, but certainly greens abound in gloriousvariety,asdosomanyotherdesirableitemsthatarereadyandwaitingtograceoursaladdays.

SALADGREENSOnce youhave brought your greens homeyounaturallywant to keepthemasfreshandperkyaspossible.Iftheyarereadytrimmed,washed,andpackaged, they’llkeep for severaldaysas is. I’mmostenthusiasticabout the hydroponic “living lettuce,” which keeps perfectly in therefrigerator for aweek ormore, sitting on its still-attached root in itsplasticbox.Idon’tevenwashmine;I’mjustcareful,whenIpullofftheleaves,nottodisturbtheroot.SlightlyWilted Greens. If this happens to yours, you can often bring

themback to a reasonable crispness by soaking for several hours in abasinofcoldwater.To Wash Greens, such as Boston or butter lettuce, curly endive,

romaine,oakleaf,escarole,andradicchio,discardwiltedleavesand/ortearoffwiltedpartsofleaves.Separateleavesfromrootendsand,ifyouwish, tear leaves off from central stems, then tear leaves into servingpieces.Plungethemintoalargebasinofcoldwater,pumpupanddown,letsettleamomentsosandwillsinktothebottom,thenlifttheleavesoutwithyourhands,leavingsandbehind.ToDryGreens.Spindryafewhandfulsatatimeinasaladbasket.To Keep Washed Greens. A most effective system for several hours’

wait, and if you have room, is to lay them out hollow side down onpaper towels in a deep roasting pan; cover with a damp towel andrefrigerate. Otherwise, I pack the leaves loosely and refrigerate themsurroundedbydampenedpapertowelsinabigplasticbag,wheretheykeepfor2daysorso.

MixedGreenSalad

Apoundorsoofsaladgreenswillserve6—allonekind,suchas1largeheadofBostonlettuce,oramixture.Thegreensarewashedanddried,and torn intowhatever sizeyouprefer—smallpieces are easier to eat,butlargeronestossmoreattractivelyandareusuallymoreappealingontheplate.Yoursaladdressinghasbeenprepared.Youhavealargebowlat the ready, and a long-handled salad fork and spoon. The momentbefore serving (andnot before, or the saladwillwilt), turn the greensinto the bowl. Toss with several spoonfuls of the dressing, reachingdownintothebottomofthebowlwithyourspoonandforkandbringingup big clumps of leaves, and repeating rapidly, adding driblets ofdressing as needed so that all the leaves are lightly enrobed but thegreensarenot swimming.Pickupa smallpieceand tasteanalytically,tossing in a sprinkling of salt andpepper ormore lemonor vinegar ifneeded.Serveatonce.

SALADDRESSINGSTheperfectdressingisessentialtotheperfectsalad,andIseenoreasonwhatsoeverforusingabottleddressing,whichmayhavebeensittingonthe grocery shelf forweeks, evenmonths—evenyears.With your owndressing everything is fresh—the best oil, your own choice of vinegar,fresh lemon—and a really good salad dressing is so quick and easy tomake,asdescribedhere.

SALAD OILS AND VINEGARS. The choice is entirely up to you, the mainconsideration being taste. Youmay sometimes prefer a fruity olive oilover a mild one, or you may like peanut or vegetable oil for certaindishes—justmakecertainitisfreshandfine.Thesamegoesforvinegar,and be sure you know the taste of a wine vinegar before you buy it,

since there is quite a variety in qualities. I personally have alwaysboughttheFrenchvinegarfromOrléans,becauseIamusedtoit,butIhavetastedsomeexcellentdomesticones.Whenyouhavebeenservedasaladwithaparticularlyfinedressing,askyourhostshowtheydidit—they’llbecomplimentedandyou’llbeaddinganewpagetoyourkitchenrecipefiles.

BasicVinaigretteDressing

Thisisabare-bonesrecipeforthesimpleall-purposevinaigrette,whichyou will vary as you wish; you’ll find suggestions at the end of thisrecipe.Itsbeautyliessolelyinthequalityofyouringredients.Notethatyouwillsooftenseeproportionsof1partvinegarto3partsoil,butthatcanmakeaveryacid,veryvinegaryvinaigrette.Iusetheproportionsofaverydrymartini,sinceyoucanalwaysaddmorevinegarorlemonbutyoucan’ttakeitout.

Forabout⅔cup,serving6to8

½Tbsfinelymincedshallotorscallion

½TbsDijon-typemustard

¼tspsalt

½Tbsfreshlysqueezedlemonjuice

½Tbswinevinegar

⅓to½cupexcellentoliveoil,orotherfine,freshoil

Freshlygroundpepper

Eithershakealltheingredientstogetherinascrew-toppedjar,ormixthemindividuallyasfollows.Stirtheshallotsorscallionstogetherwiththemustardandsalt.Whisk in the lemonjuiceandvinegar,andwhenwell blended start whisking in the oil by droplets to form a smoothemulsion.Beatinfreshlygroundpepper.Taste(dipapieceofthesaladgreens into the sauce) and correct seasoningwith salt, pepper, and/ordropsoflemonjuice.

TO KEEP SALAD DRESSING. Vinaigrette is always at its freshest and best whenservedpromptly,butyoucancertainlycoveritairtightandrefrigerateitfor several days. The shallots and fresh lemon will eventually go off,spoilingthetasteofthedressing.

VARIATIONS

GARLIC.Puréethegarlicandaddittoorsubstituteitforthemincedshallots.Orrubthesaladbowlwithapeeledcloveofgarlic.Orrubapeeledcloveofgarlicoverdry-toastedFrench-breadrounds,cutintopieces,andtosswiththesalad.LEMONPEEL.Forapronouncedlemonflavor,mincethezest(coloredpartofpeelonly)ofashinyfreshlemonandstiritintothesauce.HERBS.Mincefreshherbssuchasparsley,chives,chervil,tarragon,basil,and/ordillandwhiskintothefinisheddressing.SWEETANDSOURDRESSING.Especiallyforduck,goose,pork,game.Beatatablespoonofhoisinsauceormincedchutneyintothevinaigrette,including,ifyouwish,dropletsofdarksesameoil.(Seeusingthisdressinginaducksalad.)ROQUEFORTDRESSING.Crumbleabout⅓cupofRoquefort cheeseandstirintothe⅔cupofvinaigrette—orusewhateverproportionsyouwish.Aparticularfavoriteofmine,servedattheCafédeSevillainSantaBarbara,istohalveorquarterromainehearts,setthemcutside up on serving dishes, and spoon over them the Roquefortdressing.

ChoppedHard-BoiledEggs—SaladMimosa

For 6 servings. Neatly dice 2 hard-boiled eggs and toss with 2tablespoons of minced herbs such as parsley, chives, basil, and/ortarragon. Season lightly with salt and pepper, and sprinkle over thedressedsaladjustbeforeserving.

CurlyEndivewithBaconandPoachedEggs

For 6 servings. Poach 6 eggs. Cut a 2-inch square of slab bacon into

lardons,brownlightlyinafryingpan,anddrain, leaving½tablespoonbacon fat in the pan. Make your vinaigrette right in the frying pan,including the bacon fat as part of the dressing. Toss the curly endivewith the dressing, and top each servingwith the bacon lardons and apoachedegg.Garnishwithasprinklingofchoppedparsley.

WarmDuckLegSalad

Particularly recommendedwhenyouhaveused thebreast of a roasterduckling,andhaveuncooked legs tospare.Bonethem,skin them,andpoundmeat between sheets of plastic wrap to a thickness of ¼ inch,thencutintostrips¼inchwide.Stir-frybrieflyinalittleoliveoiluntillightly browned but still rosy inside. Toss with the sweet and sourdressing,andserveonabedoffrizzylettuce.

MAINCOURSESALADS

MASTERRECIPE

SaladeNiçoise

Of allmain-course salads, the Niçoise ismy all-time favorite, with itsfresh butter-lettuce foundation; its carefully cooked, beautifully greengreen beans; its colorful contrast of halved hard-boiled eggs, ripe redtomatoes,andblackolives;allfortifiedbychunksoftunafishandfreshlyopened anchovies. It’s a perfect luncheon dish, to my mind, winter,summer, spring, and fall—an inspired combination that pleaseseveryone.

Serves6

1largeheadBoston-lettuceleaves,washedanddried1poundgreenbeans,cookedandrefreshed

1½Tbsmincedshallots

½to⅔cupbasicvinaigrette

Saltandfreshlygroundpepper

3or4riperedtomatoes,cutintowedges(or10to12cherry

tomatoes,halved)

3or4“boiling”potatoes,peeled,sliced,andcooked(seepotatosalad)

Two3-ouncecanschunktuna,preferablyoil-packed

6hard-boiledeggs,peeledandhalved

1freshlyopenedcanofflatanchovyfillets(seeboxbelow)

⅓cupsmallblackNiçoise-typeolives

2to3Tbscapers

3Tbsmincedfreshparsley

Arrange the lettuce leaves on a large platter or in a shallow bowl.Shortly before serving, toss the beans with the shallots, spoonfuls ofvinaigrette,andsaltandpepper.Bastethetomatoeswithaspoonfulofvinaigrette.Placethepotatoesinthecenteroftheplatterandarrangeamoundofbeansateitherend,withtomatoesandsmallmoundsoftunaat strategic intervals. Ring the platterwith halves of hard-boiled eggs,sunny side up, and curl an anchovy on top of each. Spoon morevinaigretteoverall;scatteronolives,capers,andparsley,andserve.

VARIATIONS

COLD ROAST MEAT SALAD. Thinly slice, or cut into cubes or strips, apoundofcoldroastorbraisedbeef,veal,orpork,andrefrigerateforseveralhoursinabowlwithsufficientvinaigrettetoenrobethepieces,turningandbastingseveraltimes.Toserve,arrangenicelyon a platter, surrounded with pickles, capers, olives, tomatoes,sliced red onions and green peppers, cooked green beans, orwhateverappealstoyou.

FRESHLYOPENEDCANOFANCHOVIES.Anchoviesgo“off”intastewhentheysitaroundinanopencan—whichisprobablywhymanypeoplehateanchovies.

SYRIAN LAMB SALAD.Marinate forseveralhoursadozenthinslicesofcold roast leg of lamb in garlic-flavored vinaigrette plus severalpuréedfreshlyopenedanchovies.Mound3cupsorsoofpreparedbulgur (crackedwheat; seeboxbelow) in the centerof aplatter,andsurroundwiththelambslices.Garnishasyouwishwitholives,hard-boiled eggs, tomato wedges, sliced bell peppers, marinatedcucumber.

TOPREPAREBULGUR—CRACKEDWHEAT.Stiraquartofboilingwaterinto1cupraw, dry bulgur. Let sit 15 minutes, or until pleasantly tender.Drain,rinseincoldwater,andsqueezedryinatowel.Tosswith1Tbseachofoliveoil,gratedonion,andchoppedparsley.Seasontotastewithsalt,pepper,andlemonjuice.

BREASTOFPHEASANT,DUCK,CHICKEN,ORTURKEYSERVEDINASALAD.Marinateslicesofthecookedbreastfor30minutesorsointhevinaigrette.Then,foreachserving,arrangeseveralstripsoverabedoftenderfrizzylettuce leaves. Baste with vinaigrette and decorate with smallsegmentsoforange,thinred-onionslices,andaspoonfuloftoastedpinenuts.

MASTERRECIPE

ChickenSaladServes6to8

6cupscookedchicken,cutupintogood-sizedpieces

Saltandfreshlygroundwhitepepper

1to2Tbsoliveoil

2to3Tbsfreshlemonjuice

1cupdicedtendercelerystalks

½cupdicedredonion

1cupchoppedwalnuts

½cupchoppedparsley

1tspfinelycutfreshtarragonleaves(or¼tspdriedtarragon)

⅔cuporsomayonnaise

Freshsaladgreens,washedanddried

Fordecoration:allorachoiceofslicedorchoppedhard-boiledeggs,parsleysprigs,stripsofredpimiento

Toss the chicken with salt, pepper, olive oil, lemon juice, celery,onion, and walnuts. Cover and refrigerate at least 20 minutes orovernight.Drainoutanyaccumulated liquid; tosswith theparsleyandtarragon.Tasteanalyticallyandcorrectseasonings.Foldin justenoughmayonnaise to enrobe ingredients. Shred the greens, arrange on aplatter,andmoundthesaladontop.Spreadathincoatofmayonnaiseover the chicken and decorate with the eggs, parsley, and pimientostrips.

VARIATIONS

TURKEYSALAD.Followthesamegeneralsystemasforchicken.LOBSTER,CRAB,ORSHRIMPSALAD.Followthesamegeneralsystem,andusesomeoftheshellsfordecoration.

PastaSalad

Ononeofourtelevisionshootswehadacatererwhostartedusoutwitha quite acceptable pasta salad but then let it continue, recycled andrecycled,dayafterday,foraweek;finally,rebellionforcedachangeofcaterers.I’venevermuchcaredforthedishsince,butIdoadmititcanbe good when creatively made. I even showed a children’s versionmyselfontheTVshowMisterRogers’Neighborhood. Itwasregular longspaghetti cooked, drained, and tossed with olive oil, salt and pepper,dicedgreenandredpeppers,scallions,blackolives,andwalnutmeats.“SpaghettiMarcoPolo.”Weateitwithchopsticks.

American-StylePotatoSalad

ThePotatoBase.Halve3poundsof“boiling”potatoesandslice3/16inch thick. Boil in lightly salted water for 3 to 5 minutes, just until

tender.Drainout cookingwater, then cover thepanand let sit 3 to4minutes, to firmup. Ina largemixingbowl,gentlyfoldthesliceswithsalt,pepper,½cupmincedonions,and¾cupchickenbroth;letsitforafewminutes,thenverygentlyfoldandletsittwicemore.TheFinish.Foldinafinelychoppeddillpickle,3or4choppedhard-boiledeggs,3or4 finelydiced tendercelery ribs,and4or5 stripsofcrumbled crisp bacon. Let salad cool, then fold in enoughmayonnaisejust toenrobe thepotatoes.Correct seasoning,andgarnish ifyouwishwithhard-boiledeggsandparsley.

VARIATIONS

FRENCHPOTATOSALAD.Preparethepotatobaseasdescribed,and,whilestill warm, fold in olive oil, chopped parsley, and seasonings totaste.Letcool. WARM POTATO SALAD WITH SAUSAGES. Prepare the French potato saladabove, and serve warm with generous slices of delicious warmsausage.

PROCESSORMAYONNAISE.Break1wholeegg into thecontainerofa foodprocessor,add2eggyolks,andprocess30to45seconds,oruntilthick and lemon-colored. With the machine running, add 1tablespoon fresh lemon juice and/or wine vinegar, 1 teaspoonDijon-typemustard,½ teaspoon salt, and several grinds ofwhitepepper.Stillwiththemachinerunning,andbyverysmalldribblesatfirst,startaddingupto2cupsofoliveoiland/orvegetableoil.Afterabout½cuphasgonein,addtheoilalittlefaster,untilyouhave a thickmayonnaise. Taste carefully, processing in lemonorvinegarandseasoningsasneeded.Storage.Refrigerate in a covered container; the saucewill keepforaboutaweek.Notethatachilledsaucecansometimesturnorthin outwhen stirred up—best to transfer it by spoonfuls into awarmedmixingbowl,whiskingasyouaddeachtothebowl.Troubleshooting. If the sauce separatesor thinsout, let it sit for

several minutes, until the oil has risen over the clotted residue.Spoon asmuchof the oil as youquite easily can into a separatebowl.Dipatablespoonoftheresidueintoacleanbowl.Byhandorwith a portablemixer,whisk it vigorouslywith½ tablespoon ofDijon-type mustard until creamed and thickened. Then by halfteaspoons at first, whisk in additional residue, letting the saucecreamand thickenaftereachaddition.Finally, continuewith theoil,addingitbydribbles.(Notethatusingthesametechniquesyoucanalsoaccomplishthisintheelectricblender.)

COLESLAWANDOTHERVEGETABLESALADSColeSlawServes6to8

1½poundsfirmfreshcabbage,finelyshredded(seeboxbelow)

½cupgratedcarrots

⅔cupdicedtendercelerystalks

1mediumcucumber,peeled,halvedlengthwise,seeded,anddiced

½cupfinelydicedgreenbellpepper

¼cupfinelydicedyellowonion

1smalltartapple,peeled,cored,andfinelydiced

¼cupchoppedfreshparsley

ForDressingtheSlaw

1TbsDijon-typemustard

3Tbscidervinegar

1tspsalt

1tspsugar

¼tspcarawayorcuminseeds

¼tspceleryseeds

Freshlygroundpepper

½cuporsomayonnaise,optional

⅓cupsourcream,optional

Toss the cabbage in a largemixing bowlwith the other vegetables,apple, andparsley.Mix themustard, vinegar, salt, and sugar together,pour into thebowl,and tosswith thecabbage.Fold in thecarawayorcumin,celeryseed,andpepper.Tasteandadjustseasoning.Letstandfor30 minutes, or cover and refrigerate. Before serving, drain outaccumulated liquid and adjust seasoning again. Serve as is, or blendmayonnaiseandsourcreamtogetherandfoldintotheslaw.

MACHINE-SHREDDED CABBAGE. Slice off the top and the bottom of the cabbage.Halvetheheadandcutoutthecentralcore.Cutthehalvesintowedgesthatwill fit intoyour foodprocessor,cutsidesdown.Usingtheslicingdisk,processwedgebywedgetoproducefinelyshreddedcabbage.

CeleryRootRémoulade

Working quickly to prevent discoloration, peel a 1-pound head ofceleriac, cut into chunks, and shred in a food processor or hand-heldvegetable-juliennemachine.At once, tosswith½ teaspoon of salt and1½ tablespoons of lemon juice and let macerate 30 minutes. For thedressing, whisk ¼ cup Dijon-type mustard in a warm mixing bowl,dribblingin3tablespoonsboilingwaterfollowed,indribbles,by⅓cupolive oil or vegetable oil and 2 tablespoons wine vinegar, to make athick, creamy sauce. Fold into the celery root, correct seasoning, andgarnishwithchoppedparsley.Youmayserveatonce,orcoverandletsteepforanhourorlongerintherefrigerator,whereitwillimproveinflavorandtenderness.

GratedBeetSalad

For 2 pounds of beets, serving 6. Peel the beets and put through thelargeholesofahandgrateroraprocessor.Sautébrieflyin2tablespoonsoliveoilandalargecloveofpuréedgarlicjusttoheatthrough,tossingtoblendwithsalt,pepper,and1tablespoonwinevinegar.Stirin¼cup

water, cover, and boil slowly for 10minutes or until beets are tenderandwaterhasevaporated.Letcoolandtosswithmoreoil,vinegar,andseasoningstotaste.Servewithsaladgreens,orspearsofBelgianendive.

VARIATION

SLICED BEET SALAD.Usingwholepeeledwarmbeets (seeboxbelow),slicethemandtossinabowlwitholiveoil,puréedgarlic,andsalttotaste.

BEETS INTHEPRESSURECOOKER.Wholebeetstakehourstocookintheovenbutonly20minutes in thepressure cooker.Place2-inchwashedunpeeledbeets on the rack in the cookerwith 1 inch ofwater. Bring to full 15pounds pressure and time for 20 minutes. Set under the cold-waterfaucettoreleasepressureimmediately.Peelthebeetswhilestillwarm.

CucumberSalad

For 6 servings, or as a garnish. Peel, halve lengthwise, and scoop theseeds out of 2 large cucumbers. Cut either into thin slices or intojulienne, and toss with ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon sugar, and 1teaspoonwinevinegar.Letsteepfor15to20minutes,thendrain(youmaywishtosavetheliquidforsaladdressing).Serveasis,tossedwithchoppedparsleyorfreshdill,orfoldwithsourcreamandthengarnishwithdill.

NOTE:Moststore-boughtcucumbersarecoatedinwax,asapreservative.If yours are uncoated, no need to peel them, and you will have thepleasure of green-bordered cucumber slices.Coatedor not, noneed toseed them, although if unseeded they will exude more liquid whendressed.

Vegetables

“Whenyouservefine,freshgreenvegetables,youwantthemtoshowofftheircolor.”

Little white onions must hold their shape but be tender all the waythrough, and yourmashed potatoes are to be smooth and full of thatgood potato flavor. Here are my suggestions as to whether you willachieve the best results by steaming them, boiling them, or cover-cookingtheminabraise.

THEBLANCH/BOILSYSTEMFORGREENVEGETABLESTo blanch/boil a green vegetable, like green beans, you plunge themintoalargepotofrapidlyboilingwater,bringbacktotheboilasfastaspossible, and boil slowly for a fewminutes, until the vegetable is justtender.Thelargeamountofwater—6to8quartsfor2poundsofbeans,for instance—means that it will come quickly back to the boil, thussetting the color. If you are not serving them almost at once, drainimmediately and run coldwater into the kettle, again to preserve thecolor, and also the texture. Drain thoroughly, and the vegetables arereadytoserveeitherhotorcold.Thusyoucancookthemseveralhoursinadvance.Notethatsaltproportionsare1½teaspoonssaltperquartofwater,making12teaspoons(4tablespoonsor¼cup)for8quarts.

BLANCH/BOILVEGETABLECHART•Vegetable:Asparagus(4to6spearsperserving)•Preparation:Trim½inchofftoughendsandpeelspearsfrombutttojustbelowtip.•Cooking(In6to8quartsofsaltedwateratarapidboil):Layflatand boil uncovered 4 to 5minutes, or until asparagus bends slightly.Removeanddrainonatowel.•Finishing:Drizzlemeltedbutterand/or fresh lemon juiceoverwarmasparagus.Orservewithhollandaise.Orservecoldwithvinaigrette.

•Vegetable:Broccoli(1½lbs,toserve4or5)•Preparation:Cutofffloretsandpeelstems.Peelcentralstalkstopaleinteriorandcutinpieces.• Cooking (In 6 to 8 quarts of salted water at a rapid boil): Boiluncovered 2 to 4 minutes, until tender with only a slight crunchremaining. Remove immediately. Broccoli cooks (and overcooks) soquicklyIdon’trecommenditbedoneinadvance.•Finishing:Samesuggestionsasforasparagusplus:1-Sprinkleonfreshbreadcrumbs,sautéedinbutter.2-Tossthebroccoliinasautépanwitholiveoilandpuréedgarlic.3-Prepareaugratin.

•Vegetable:BrusselsSprouts(1½lbs,toserve4or5)•Preparation:Trimrootends,removelooseordiscoloredleaves;pierceacross¼inchdeepinrootends.• Cooking (In 6 to 8 quarts of salted water at a rapid boil): Boiluncovered4to5minutes,untiljusttenderwhenpierced.Drain.Refreshincoldwaterifnotservedatonce.•Finishing:1-Servewholewithmeltedbutter,orcutinhalfandsautéinhotbutteruntilslightlybrowned.2-Prepareaugratin.

•Vegetable:GreenBeans(1½lbs,toserve4or5)•Preparation:Forthinbeansandharicotsverts,snapoffends.Forwidebeans,“french”thembyslicingdiagonallyinto1-inchstrips.•Cooking (In 6 to 8 quarts of saltedwater at a rapid boil): Cook“frenched”beans2 to3minutes,orwholebeans4 to5minutes,untiljust cooked through. Drain immediately; finish immediately or refreshundercoldwater.•Finishing:1-Tossinafryingpanwithbutter,lemonjuice,seasonings,andparsley.2-Chillandtosswithvinaigrette.

•Vegetable:Spinach(3lbs,toserve4)

•Preparation:Rinseincoldwater,liftout,andrepeattoremovesand.Pullstemsfromleaves.• Cooking (In 6 to 8 quarts of salted water at a rapid boil): Boiluncovered until limp, 1 to 3 minutes, depending on maturity. Drain;refreshundercoldwater;drain;squeezedryandchopbyhand.(Ifyoungandtender,noneedtoboil,simplysautéinoilorbutter.)•Finishing:Sautébriefly inbutteroroliveoil,withmincedgarlic.Orsauté,thenadd½to1cupstockorcream,andseasonwithsalt,pepper,andnutmeg.Coverandbraise5to7minutesinbutterandshallots,untiltender.

•Vegetable:SwissChard(10stalks,toserve6to8)• Preparation: Cut leaves from central white stalk. Cook leaves andstalksseparately.•Cooking(In6to8quartsofsaltedwateratarapidboil):Thestalk:Cut into¼-inch slices.Whisk3 cupswater gradually into¼cup flourwith 1 tsp salt and 1 Tbs lemon juice. Bring to boil, add stalks, andsimmer30minutes.Drain.The leaves:Boil, squeezedry, and chop, asforspinach.•Finishing:Preparetheleavesinanyofthewayssuggestedforspinach.Ortossleavesandstalkstogetherandbakethemwithcheeseaugratin,asforthecauliflower,usingthestalk-cookingliquidasyoursaucebase.

STEAMEDVEGETABLESWhenyouarenotconcernedwithpreserving thecolor, steaming isaneasyway to cook a number of vegetables. Youwillwant a vegetable-steamerbasketthatfitsintoapanwithatight-fittingcover.Pour1inchofwaterintothepan,setthesteamerbasketinthepan,andarrangethevegetables in the basket. Cover, bring to the boil, and start timing assoonasthesteamrises.

AHANDFULOFSTEAMEDVEGETABLES•Vegetable:Artichokes(whole,1perperson)• Preparation: Trim stem off base. Cut ½ inch off top; snip prickly

pointsoffleaveswithscissors.Rubcutpartswithlemon.•Cooking (In basket over 1 inch liquid, in covered pot): Arrangeupside down in basket. Steam over water 30 to 40 minutes, untilbottomsaretenderwhenpierced.•Finishing:1-Servewarmwithmeltedbutterorhollandaisefordippingleaves.2-Servecoldwithmayonnaise,orvinaigrette.

•Vegetable:CabbageWedges(a2-lb.cabbageserves4)• Preparation: Cut cabbage in half through the core; cut halves intowedges.Trimcorebutdon’tletleavesseparate.•Cooking (In basket over 1 inch liquid, in covered pot): Arrangecabbagewedges cut sides up on steamer rack. Pour over them2 cupschickenstockpluswatertoadepthof1inchinthepan.Seasonwedges,coverpot,andsteamabout15minutes,untiljusttender.•Finishing:Rapidlyboildownsteamingliquiduntilsyrupy.Swirl in1to2Tbsbutterandchoppedparsley.Drizzleoverthe

•Vegetable:Cauliflower(1½lbs,toserve4or5)•Preparation: Cut out central core and break florets apart. Peel coredeeplyandcutintopieces.Peelstemsofflorets.•Cooking(Inbasketover1inchliquid,incoveredpot):Steamoverwater3to5minutes,untilcookedthroughbutwithslightcrunch.•Finishing:1-Topwithbutter,lemon,orhollandaise;orsprinkleonsautéedbutteredbreadcrumbsandchoppedparsley.2-Tosspiecesinafryingpanwitholiveoil,puréedgarlic,andparsley.3-Preparegratin.

•Vegetable:Eggplant(a1-lb.eggplantserves4)•Preparation:Washeggplant.Placewholeinbasket.•Cooking(Inbasketover1inchliquid,incoveredpot):Steamoverwater20to30minutes,untilsoft,slightlyshriveled,andeasilypierced.•Finishing:Trimoffgreencapandsliceeggplantinhalvesorquarters

lengthwise.1-Drizzlefleshwithgarlickyvinaigretteservewarmorcool.2-Scoop out flesh; sauté slowly in olive oil with onions and puréedgarlic,untiltenderandslightlybrowned.3-Eggplant caviar: Purée flesh in a mixer, then beat in puréed garlic,allspice,ginger,Tabasco,and,ifyouwish,acupofgroundwalnuts,plusupto4Tbsoliveoiladdedbydrops.

THEBOIL/STEAMSYSTEMFORVEGETABLESThisisanespeciallyeffectivemethodforrootvegetablessuchascarrotsand small onions, as well as for store-bought green peas. Rather thanboiling the vegetables in water to cover, then draining them, thusthrowing out a lot of the flavorwith the cooking liquid, youwant tocover-cook themina smallamountof liquid.You thenboildownthatliquidtoconcentrateitsflavor,anduseittosauceyourvegetables.

BOIL/STEAMVEGETABLECHART• Vegetable: Green Peas (2 lbs fresh store-bought peas in the pod,makingabout3cups,toserve6)•Preparation:Shellpeasintoasaucepan.Add1Tbsofsoftbutter,and½tspeachsaltandsugar.Byhandfuls,bruisethepeasroughlywiththebutter,sugar,andsalt.•Cooking:Pourinwateralmosttocoverpeas.Bringtoboil,cover,andcookattherapidboil10to15minutes,oruntiltender.•Finishing:Uncoverandboiloffliquidifnecessary.Correctseasoning.Tosswithmorebutterifyouwish.

•Vegetable:SmallWhiteOnions(12to16onions,about1inchdiameter,toserve4)• Preparation: To peel, drop onions into boiling water for exactly 1minute.Drainand refresh in coldwater. Shaveoff ends; slipoff skins.Pierceacross¼inchdeepinrootends,topreventbursting.•Cooking:For“white-braised”onions:Arrangein1layerinasaucepanwith chicken stock or water to come halfway up. Add 1 Tbs butter,

seasonlightly,cover,andsimmerslowly25minutes,oruntiltender.For“brown-braised”onions:Beforesteaming,sautépeeledonionsin1layerin butter and oil until colored. Then add liquid, salt, and 1 tsp sugar;coverandcookasabove.•Finishing:1-Uncover,boiloffexcessliquid,andfoldinanotherTbsofbutterifyouwish.2-For creamedonions:Addheavycream towhite-braisedonionswhenthey are just tender. Simmer severalminutes until thickened, basting.Foldinchoppedparsleyifyouwish.

•Vegetable:Carrots,Parsnips,Rutabagas,Turnips(1½lbs, toserve5or6)•Preparation:Peelthevegetablesandcutinto¾-inchchunks.• Cooking: Place in saucepan; add water to come halfway up thevegetables.Seasonwith½tsp saltand, ifyouwish,1or2Tbsbutter.Cover and boil hard over high heat 8 to 10minutes, or until tender.Uncoverandrapidlyboildownliquiduntilevaporated.•Finishing:1-Tosschunkswithbutterandchoppedparsleyand/orscallions,orwithgratedfreshginger.2-Purée steamed chunks in foodmill or processor. Stir overmoderateheatinaheavypantoevaporatemoisture.Stirinbutterorheavycream;seasontotaste.3-Goldenpurée:Blendpuréedcarrots(orsquash)withmashedpotatoes.

•Vegetable:WinterSquash(1½lbssquash,toserve5or6)•Preparation:Cutinhalfandscrapeoutseedsandstrings.Peelhalvesandcutinto¾-inchchunks•Cooking:Cookasdescribedabove.•Finishing:Puréeasdescribedabove.

ROASTEDORBAKEDVEGETABLESAlthough they are synonymous, “roasted” soundsmore exciting to themodernearthan“baked,”whichhasaratherdowdyandold-fashioned

ring.Ishallusewhicheversoundsbesttome.

TomatoesProvençal

Halved and baked with herbs, garlic, and crumbs. For 4 firm, ripetomatoes,toserve4.Halve,seed,andjuicethetomatoes.Tosstogether½ cup fresh white bread crumbs, 2 tablespoons minced shallots orscallions, 2 cloves garlic, minced, 1 to 2 Tbs olive oil, and salt andpepper to taste.Salt lightly,and fill tomatoeswith thecrumbmixture.Drizzle on olive oil and bake in the upper level of a preheated 400°Foven for 15 to 20 minutes, until crumbs are lightly browned andtomatoesaresoftenedbutstillholdtheirshape.

TOMATOES: PEELED, SEEDED, AND JUICED—FRESH TOMATO PULP. To peel tomatoes, dropthem into a large pan of rapidly boiling water and time the boil forexactly10seconds.Cutoutthecore,thenpeeltheskindownfromit.Toseedandjuicethem,halvecrosswiseandgentlysqueezetodislodgejellyandjuice,pokingoutremainingseedswithyourfingers.Theyarethenusuallychoppedordiced(concassées)into“freshtomatopulp.”

BakedWinterSquash

For1½poundssquash,toserve4to6.Tobakeanywintersquash,halveit and scrape out seeds and strings. Rub the inside with butter andseasonings,thenbakeinthelower-thirdlevelofapreheated400°Fovenuntil the flesh is soft and edible, usually an hour or more. Cut intoserving portions and serve as is, or fill with any stuffing suitable forturkey and bake another ½ hour, basting several times with roastingjuicesormeltedbutter.

BakedEggplantSlicesandEggplant“Pizza”

For2mediumeggplants,about3pounds,toserve5or6.Choosefirm,shiny eggplants.Wash them and cut into½-inch slices, salt lightly onboth sides, and let sweat on paper towels 20 to 30minutes. Pat dry,arrangeonanoiledbakingpan,andbrushtopswitholiveoil.Sprinkleon dried Italian or Provençal herbs, cover with foil, and bake in a

preheated400°Fovenfor20minutes,oruntil justtender.Foreggplant“pizza,” spread tomato sauce (see box below) over each slice, andsprinkle with Parmesan and a drizzle of olive oil. Brown under thebroiler.

TOMATOSAUCE

FRESH TOMATO SAUCE. For about 2½ cups, sauté½ cupminced onions in 2tablespoonsoliveoil,andwhentenderstir in4cupsfreshtomatopulporhalffreshandhalfcannedItalianplumtomatoes.Seasonwithapinchof thyme,abay leaf,2 largeclovesofpuréedgarlic,and, ifyouwish,bothapinchofsaffronthreadsand¼teaspoondriedorangepeel.Saltlightlyandsimmer,partiallycovered,for30minutes.TOMATOFONDUE—AGARNISH.Sauté2tablespoonsmincedshallotsorscallionsin1tablespoonoliveoilorbutter,andwhentenderbringtotheboilwith¼ cup each of chicken stock and dry white French vermouth. Whensyrupy, blend in 2 cups fresh tomato pulp (see box above), a clove ofminced garlic, and a good pinch of tarragon or basil. Simmer 2 to 3minutestocookthetomatoes,thencorrectseasoningandfoldinmincedparsley.

CauliflowerauGratin

Toserve5or6.For3cupsofcookedcauliflower(seecharts),prepare2to2½cupsbéchamelsauce.Fold⅓cupofcoarselygratedSwisscheeseintothesauce,andspreadathinlayerinabutteredshallowbakingdish.Arrangethecauliflowerinthedish,spoonovertheremainingsauce,andsprinkleon¼cupofcheese.Bakeinapreheated425°Foven20to25minutes,untilbubblingandlightlybrownedontop.

VARIATIONS

BROCCOLI OR BRUSSELS SPROUTS. Use exactly the same system as forcauliflower.

ZUCCHINI AUGRATIN.Grateandsautézucchinibutsavethesqueezed-out zucchini juices. Make a velouté sauce, using 2 tablespoonsbutter, 3 tablespoons flour, and 1½ cups liquid (zucchini juicesplusmilk).Fold thezucchini into the sauce, spread inabutteredbakingdish,andsprinkleover¼cupgratedSwisscheese.Bakeinupper-third level of a 400°F oven until bubbling and browned,about20minutes.

SAUTÉEDVEGETABLESAsalways,sautéingistheeasiestandfastestwaytopreparevegetables.However,youalwayshavetoremembertheaddedcaloriesgivenyoubythatdeliciousbutterorvirginoliveoilyouareusing.

SautéedMushrooms

Keep in mind: 1 pound fresh mushrooms= 1 quart; ½ pound slicedfresh mushrooms = 2½ cups; ½ pound diced fresh mushrooms = 2cups;¾pound(3cups)slicedorquarteredfreshmushrooms=2cupssautéedmushrooms.For¾poundquarteredfreshmushrooms,heat1½tablespoonsbutterand½ tablespoon oil in a large frying pan, and when butter foam issubsiding, turn in the mushrooms. Sauté for several minutes, tossingfrequentlyas thebutter is absorbedand then reappearson the surfacewhen the mushrooms begin to brown. Toss in ½ tablespoon choppedshallots,seasonwithsaltandpepper,andsautéanother30seconds.

VARIATION

MUSHROOMDUXELLES—FINELYDICEDSAUTÉEDMUSHROOMS.Finelydice½quart(½pound)freshmushrooms.Byhandfuls,twisttheminthecornerofatoweltoextracttheirjuices.Sautéaspreviouslydirected,addingchopped shallots at the end. For a wine flavoring, stir in 2tablespoonsdryportorMadeiraandboildownbriefly.

SIMMEREDMUSHROOMCAPS.Foruseasagarnish.Toss10largemushroomcapsinastainless-steelsaucepanwith¼cupwater,1tablespoonfreshlemon

juice,abigpinchofsalt,and1tablespoonbutter.Simmer,covered,for2to3minutesuntiljusttender.

Pipérade—SautéedPeppersandOnions

For1½cups.Sauté1slicedmediumonionslowlyin2tablespoonsoliveoil until tender but not browned. Add 1 slicedmedium red pepper, 1sliced green pepper, and a clove of puréed garlic. Season with a bigpinchofProvençalherbs,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Continuesautéingseveralminutesoverlowheat,untilpeppersaretender.

GratedSautéedZucchini

For 1½ pounds, to serve 4. Grate the zucchini and toss in a colanderwith1½teaspoonssalt; let steep20minutes.Byhandfuls, twist in thecorner of a towel to extract juices. Sauté 1 tablespoonminced shallotbrieflyinalargefryingpanwith2tablespoonsoliveoilorbutter,thenaddthezucchiniandtossoverhighheatfor2minutesorso,justuntiltender.

VARIATIONS

CREAMEDZUCCHINI.Whentender,stirin½cupofheavycreamandletsimmer until absorbed, then fold with a tablespoon of choppedparsleyortarragon.GRATINÉEDWITHCHEESE.

GratedSautéed/SteamedBeets

For1½poundsbeets,toserve4.Peelandgratethebeets.Tosstheminanonstickfryingpanwith2tablespoonsmeltedbutter.Add¼inchwaterand1teaspoonred-winevinegar,andbringtosimmerovermediumheatfor1minute,stirring.Cover,lowerheat,andsimmerabout10minutes,addingmore water if necessary, until beets are tender and liquid hasevaporated.Swirlandtosswithanothertablespoonorsoofbutter,andseasontotaste.

VARIATION

TURNIPS,RUTABAGAS,ANDCARROTS.Grateandsauté/steamthesameway.

BrownOnion“Marmalade”

To make about ½ cup. Sauté 3 cups sliced onions slowly in 2 to 3tablespoons butter for about 15minutes, until tender and translucent.Raise heat and sauté 5 minutes or so more, stirring, until nicelybrowned.

BRAISEDVEGETABLESWhen vegetables need longer cooking, you braise them, meaning youcoverthemandletthemsteamintheirownjuices.

BraisedCelery

Use⅓to½preparedceleryheartperserving.Cut theceleryhearts inhalves or thirds lengthwise, depending on thickness; wash under coldrunningwater.Laycutsideupinabutteredflameproofbakingdish.Saltlightly, spread over each a teaspoon ofmirepoix (see box below), andpourinchickenstocktoathirdofthewayup.Bringtothesimmerontopofthestove.Laybutteredwaxpaperoverthecelery,coverwithfoil,andcookina350°Foven30to40minutes,untiltender.Pourjuicesintoa saucepanandboil downuntil syrupy. Swirl in a tablespoonor soofbutterandpouroverthecelery.

MIREPOIX—DICEDAROMATICVEGETABLES.Togiveextra flavor tobraisedmeatsandvegetables.Forabout⅓cup.Sautégentlyforabout10minutes¼cupeachfinelydicedcarrots,onions,andceleryin2tablespoonsbutterwitha pinch of thyme and, if you wish, ¼ cup diced ham. When tender,seasonlightlytotaste.

VARIATION

BRAISEDLEEKS.Use1fator2thintrimmedleeksperserving.Cutfatleeksinhalflengthwise;leavethinoneswhole.Placecutsideupinonelayerinabutteredbakingdish,andproceedasforthebraised

celery,butomitthemirepoix.

BraisedEndives

For 10 endives, to serve 5 to 10. Trim root ends of endives, keepingleavesattached.Arrangeinonelayerinabutteredflameproofcasserole.Saltlightly,distribute1½tablespoonsbutterinsmallpiecesontop,andsprinklewith1teaspoonlemonjuice.Pourinwatertocomehalfwayup,andbringtotheboilontopofthestove.Boilslowlyfor15minutes,oruntilalmosttender.Laybutteredwaxpaperovertheendives,coverthecasserole, and bake in a 325°F oven for 1½ to 2 hours, or until theendivesareapalebutteryyellow.

SweetandSourRedCabbage

Serves4or5.Sauté1cupred-onionslicesinalargesaucepanwith2to3tablespoonsofbutteroroilorporkfatuntiltender.Blendin4cupsofshredded red cabbage, a grated sour apple, 2 tablespoons red-winevinegar,apuréedgarlicclove,abayleaf,½teaspooncarawayseeds,1teaspoonsugar,salt,pepper,and½cupwater.Coverandboiloverhighheatforabout10minutes,tossingoccasionallyandaddingmorewaterifnecessary,untilcabbageistenderandliquidhasevaporated.Taste,andadjustseasonings.

POTATOES

MashedPotatoes

For2½pounds(4or5)largerussetorYukon-goldpotatoes,toserve6.Peel andquarter thepotatoes, andboil for 10 to15minutes in saltedwater(1½teaspoonssaltperquart)untildefinitelytenderwhenpierced(butnotovercooked!).Drain.Returntothepanandsautéforaminuteorsotoevaporatemoisture.Eitherputthroughapotatoricer,orwhipinanelectricmixeratslowtomediumspeed,addingdribletsofhotmilkorcream.Seasonwithsaltandwhitepepper,beatinginupto½cupinallof hotmilk or cream by spoonfuls, and alternatingwith½-tablespoonadditionsofbutter.Ifnotservingatonce,setpanoveralmostsimmeringwaterandcoverloosely—thepotatoesmusthavealittleaircirculation.Theywillkeepthusanhourormore;stiruponceinawhile,addinga

littlemorebutterifyouwishbeforeserving.

VARIATION

GARLICMASHED POTATOES.Aftermashingthepotatoes,puréeaheadortwo of braised garlic cloves simmered in cream (see box below),beatitintothepotatoes,andproceedtoseasonthem,addingmilkor cream and butter to taste. (Inmy early TV versions I used amorecomplicatedsystemwitharouxandsoforth,butthis is farsimplerandbetter.)

GARLIC

GARLICFACTOIDS.Toseparatetheclovesfromtheheadofgarlic,cutoff thetop,thenbangdownontheheadwithyourfistortheflatofaknife.Topeelwholegarliccloves,dropthemintoapanofboilingwaterandboilexactly30seconds;thepeelswillslipoffeasily.Tomincegarlic,smashawholegarliccloveonyourworksurface,peeloffanddiscardtheskin,thenmincewithyourbigknife.Topurée,sprinkleabigpinchofsaltonthemincedgarlic,thenpressandrubthegarlicbackandforthonyourwork surfacewith the flat of your knife, or poundwith amortar andpestle.Toremovegarlicsmellfromyourhands,washincoldwater,rubwith

salt,washinsoapandwarmwater;repeatifnecessary.BRAISEDWHOLECLOVESOFGARLIC.Simmer1headoflargepeeledgarlicclovesand1 tablespoonof butter or olive oil in a small covered saucepan for 15minutesorso,untilverytenderbutnotbrowned.BRAISEDGARLICCLOVESSIMMEREDINCREAM.Simmertheabovebraisedgarliccloveswith ½ cup of cream for about 10 minutes, until meltingly tender.Seasonwithsaltandwhitepepper.

SteamedWholePotatoes

Forsmallred-skinnedornewpotatoesabout2inchesindiameter.Scrub

potatoesand,ifyouwish,peeloffabandofskinaroundmiddle.Pileina steamer basket set in a saucepan over 2 inches ofwater. Bring to aboil, cover closely, and steam 20 minutes or so, until easily pierced.Serveasiswithseasoningsandmeltedbutter,orpeelandsliceforsalad.

BoiledSlicedPotatoes

Especiallyforuseinsalads.Forabout1quart.Choose“boiling”potatoesallthesamesize.Oneatatime,peelthem,cutintoslices¼inchthick,anddropintocoldwater—topreventdiscoloration.Whenallaredone,drain and add fresh water to cover and 1½ teaspoons salt per quart.Simmerfor2to3minutes,testingcarefullytobesuretheyaretender.Drain, cover the pan, and let firm up for exactly 4 minutes, thenuncover,andbepreparedtoseasonthemwhilestillwarm.

ScallopedPotatoes—GratinDauphinois

For2poundsboilingpotatoes,toserve4to6.Washpotatoes,andoneby one peel and cut into slices as described in the preceding recipe.Butter a flameproofbakingdish, smearbottomwith apuréed cloveofgarlic,andlayinpotatoslices.Heat1cupofmilkseasonedwithsaltandpepper,andpouroverpotatoes,addingmilkifnecessarytoreachthree-quarters of theway up. Bring to the simmer on top of the stove, anddistribute2to3tablespoonsbutter insmallpiecesoverpotatoes.Bakein upper third of a preheated 425°F oven about 25minutes, until thepotatoesaretenderandnicelybrownedontop.

VARIATIONS

SCALLOPED POTATOES SAVOYARDE. Sauté3 cupsof thinly slicedonions inbutterandprepare1½cupsofgratedSwiss cheese.Layeronionsand cheese with the potato slices in the baking dish. Instead ofmilk,heat2cupsofwell-seasonedchickenorbeefstock;pouroverpotatoes to cover by three-quarters. Bake in 425°F oven, bastingseveraltimeswiththejuices,untilliquidisabsorbedandpotatoesarenicelybrowned,about40minutes. POTATOES ANNA—SCALLOPED POTATOES BAKED IN BUTTER. For 2 pounds boilingpotatoes, to serve 4 to 6. Prepare the potato slices as described

aboveanddrywell.Pourclarifiedbutter(seeboxbelow)intoa10-inchnonstick fryingpantoadepthof¼inch; setovermoderateheat and rapidly fill pan bottom with a layer of potato slices,overlapping in concentric circles. Shake pan to prevent sticking,baste first layer with a sprinkling of butter, and arrange theremainingslicesinneatlayers,sprinklingonbutteraftereach,andseasoning with salt and pepper every few layers. When pan isfilled, let cook3 to5minutes tocrustbottom layer.Lowerheat,cover pan, and cook for 45minutes, or until potatoes are easilypierced,makingsurebottomdoesnotburn.Loosengalettearoundthesidesandinvertontoahotservingdish.

SautéedDicedPotatoes

For 1½pounds boiling potatoes, to serve 4. Peel the potatoes and cutinto¾-inchcubes;dropintocoldwatertoremovestarch.Drain,anddryontowels.Sautéoverhighheatin3tablespoonsclarifiedbutter(seeboxbelow),or2tablespoonsbutterand1tablespoonoil,tossingfrequentlyuntilnicelybrowned.Lowerheat;seasonlightlywithsalt,pepper,and,if you wish, Provençal herbs. Cover and cook 3 or 4 minutes, untiltender. If not serving at once, keep warm for 15 minutes or so,uncovered. To serve, raise heat to moderately high, then toss in aspoonfulofchoppedshallotsandparsley,plusatablespoonorsomoreofbutter.Tossagainforseveralminutes,andserve.

CLARIFIEDBUTTER—FORSAUTÉING.Thesimplesystem:meltthebutterandpourtheclearyellowliquidoffthemilkyresidue.Theprofessional,long-keepingmethod:bringthebuttertotheslowboilinaroomysaucepanandboiluntil its crackling and bubbling almost cease; pour the clear yellowbutterthroughateastrainerintoajar,whereitwillkeepformonthsintherefrigeratororfreezer.

TheBestGratedPotatoPancakes

This ismyversionof thosewonderfulonesSallyDarrused to serve inthesixties inhercharmingNewYorkrestaurant,LaTulipe.For3or4

large-size baking potatoes, serving 6. Steam the potatoes 15 to 20minutes,until almostbutnotquite tender. Set aside for severalhours,until completely cold. Then peel and rub through the large holes of ahandgrater.Tosswithasprinklingofsaltandpepperanddividelooselyinto6mounds.Filmafryingpanwith⅛inchofclarifiedbutter(seeboxabove),andwhenbutter ishot, spread in2or3mounds,pressing thepotatoes together lightly with a spatula for 4 to 5 minutes. Sauté forseveral minutes, until browned on the bottom, turn with care, andbrown on the other side. Set aside uncovered, and reheat briefly in a425°Foven.

VARIATION

LARGEPOTATOGALETTE.Formthepotatoesintoonelargecakeandsautéina largenonstick fryingpan.Whenbottomhasbrowned,eitherflip itover,orslideoutontoabakingsheetandplop itbrownedsideupbackintothepantobrownontheotherside.

FrenchFries

For 3 pounds (4 or 5) baking potatoes about 5 inches long and 2½inchesacross,serving6.Trimpotatoesintoevenrectanglesandcutintostrips⅜ inchwide.Swish incoldwater to removesurface starch.Justbeforefrying,drainanddrythoroughly.Heat2½quartsfreshfryingoil(IuseCrisco)to325°F.Frytheequivalentof1½potatoesatatimefor4to5minutes,untilcookedthroughbutnotbrowned.Drain,andspreadoutonpapertowels.Letcoolatleast10minutes(orupto2hours).Justbeforeserving,heatoilto375°Fandfry,againbyhandfuls,foraminuteortwo,tobrownnicely.Removeanddrainonpapertowels.Saltlightly,andserveatonce.

RICE

PlainBoiledWhiteRice

For 3 cups. Measure 1 cup plain white rice into a heavy-bottomedsaucepan; stir in 2 cups cold water, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 to 2tablespoonsbutterorgoodoliveoil.Bringtotheboiloverhighheatand

stir well; reduce heat to slow simmer, cover pan tightly, and cookundisturbedfor12minutes—8minutesforfatItalianArborio.Thericeisdonewhentheliquidiscompletelyabsorbedandsteamholesarevisibleonthesurface.Thericewillbealmosttender,withtheslightestcrunchinthecenter.Letsit5minutesofftheheat,covered,tofinishcooking.Thenfluffwithawoodenfork,andcorrectseasoning.

VARIATIONS

BRAISEDRICE—RISOTTO(FRENCHSTYLE).Sauté¼cupoffinelymincedonionin2tablespoonsofbuttertosoften.Stirin1cupofriceandcook,stirringwithawooden fork, for2 to3minutes,untilgrains lookmilky.Stirin2tablespoonsdrywhiteFrenchvermouthand2cupschicken stock, add 1 imported bay leaf, and bring to simmer.Seasonlightly.Stironce, lowerheat,cover,andcookas forbasicboiledrice.BRAISEDWILDRICE.For1½cupsrice,making4cupscooked,serving6to8.Tocleanandtenderizetherice,thoroughlywashanddrainit,thenboil for10 to15minutes in4 cupsofwater,until softenedbutstilla littlehardat thecenter.Drain,andwashagain incoldwater. Then proceed as for the preceding braised rice, butsubstitute¼ cupmirepoix ormushroomduxelles for the onions.When tender, sauté in its pan, stirring with a wooden fork, toevaporatemoistureandcrispthericelightly,adding,ifyouwish,anothertablespoonorsoofbutter.

DRIEDBEANS

DriedBeansPreliminary—theQuickSoak

Pickover1cupofdriedbeans,removinganydebris,washthoroughly,andbringtotheboil in3cupsofwater.Boilexactly2minutes,cover,and set aside for exactly 1 hour. The beans and their liquid are nowreadyforcooking.

Open-PotBeanCookery

For 1 cup dried beans, making 3 cups, serving 4 to 6. Add to the

preceding beans and their liquid a medium herb bouquet, a peeledmediumonionandcarrot,and,ifyouwish,a2-inchsquareofblanchedsaltpork.Seasonlightlywithsalt,andsimmer,partiallycovered,for1to1½hours,oruntiltender.

PressureCookerBeans

Usingthesameingredientsasfortheprecedingopen-potbeans,bringto15 pounds pressure for exactly 3 minutes. Remove from heat and letpressuregodownbyitself—10to15minutes.

Crock-PotorSlow-CookerBeans

Nopresoakingisnecessary.Justputtheraw,unsoakedbeansandotheringredientsintotheCrock-Potat6p.m.andturnto“low”;theyshouldbeperfectlydonethenextmorning.(Orsettheminacoveredcasseroleandbakeina250°Fovenovernight.)

Gettingalaughoutoflobster

Knowwhereyourmeatcomesfrom.

Serveahearty,drywhitewineorasimpleredwithyourbouillabaisse.

Unmoldingtheomelet

EnjoyingatalkwithProfessorRaymondCalvelonmakingFrenchbaguettes

Spooningupaluscioushollandaise

Meats,Poultry,andFish

“Meats,poultry,andfish—eachisunique,butsomanyofthemcookinalmostthesameway.”

SAUTÉINGThequickestandeasiestwaytocooka½-inch-thicksingle-portionsizeofmeat, chicken,or fish is to sauté it,meaningyoupat itdry,plop itintoahotpan,andcookitrapidlyononeside,thentheother,untilitisnicely browned and just done. Themeat juices caramelize in the pan,andthatgivesyouthebasisforyourquickanddeliciouslittlepansauce.If theportion is abit thicker, it simplyneeds longer cooking,andyoucoverthepantofinishitoff.Differentfoodsdemand,ofcourse,slightlydifferenttreatments,andwe’llstartwiththebasicsauté,thengoontosomeoftheessentialvariations.

FORASUCCESSFULSAUTÉ

DRYTHEFOOD.Ifthefoodisdampitwillsteamratherthanbrown.Patitdryit in paper towels, or in some cases season it and dredge in flour justbeforecooking.HEAT THE PAN. Set thepanoverhighheat, add thebutteroroil, andwaituntil thebutter foamisbeginningtosubside,oruntilyourfatoroil isalmostsmoking.Then,andonlythen,addthefood.Ifitisnotreallyhot,thefoodwillnotbrown.DON’TCROWDTHEPAN.Besurethereisalittlespacebetweenpiecesoffood—about¼inch.Ifthepiecesarecrowdedtogether,theywillsteamratherthan brown. Don’t fall into the trap of adding toomuch to your pan.Sautéin2oreven3batchesifnecessary,oryou’llbesorry.THEFRYINGPAN.Getyourselfagoodsolidpan,onethatwill justholdyourfoodandisneithertoobignortoosmall.Iamweddedtomytrustyall-

purpose professional-weightWearever aluminum nonstick with its 10-inch top diameter, 8-inch bottom, and long handle. I also have thesmallersize,6inchesacross,andthelarger,12-inchpan.NOTE:Thisisnotafancy“gourmet”typepan,andyou’llmostoftenfinditinahardwarestore.

MASTERRECIPE

SautéedBeefSteaksServes4

1Tbsunsaltedbutter

1tsplightoliveoilorvegetableoil—alittlemoreifneeded

4well-trimmed5-to-6-ouncebeefsteaks½inchthick(bonelessloinstrip,rib,orother)

Saltandfreshlygroundpepper

FortheDeglazingSauce

1Tbsmincedshallotorscallion

1clovegarlic,puréed,optional

⅔cupredwine—or½cupdrywhiteFrenchvermouth

⅓cupbeeforchickenbroth

1to2Tbsunsaltedbutter

Set your frying pan over highest heat and swirl in the butter and oil.When the butter foam has almost subsided, rapidly lay in the steaks.Sautéundisturbedforaminuteorso,quicklyseasonthesurfaceofthemeatwithsaltandpepper,andturnthesteaks.Seasonthesteaksontheexposedsides,andletbrownagainforaminuteorsobeforetestingfordoneness.

WHEN IS IT DONE? Test rapidly and often, since meat can overcook veryquickly.Pressitwithyourfinger.Ifitfeelssquashy,likerawmeat,itis

very rare. As it cooks it becomes springy—when lightly springy it ismedium,andifthereisnospringitiswelldone.

TheDeglazingSauce.Removethemeattoahotplatterandcoverwhilemaking thesauce.Tilt thepanandspoonoutallbutasmidgenof fat,stir in the shallot and garlic with a wooden spoon, and let sauté amoment,thenswishinthewineandbroth,stirringthecoagulatedmeatjuicesintotheliquid.Letboilrapidlyforafewseconds,untilreducedtoasyrup.Removepanfromheat,tossinthebutter,andswirlthepanbyitshandletoswishthebutterintothesauceuntilithasbeenabsorbed.The sauce will smooth and thicken lightly; youwill have but a smallspoonful of deliciously concentrated juices per person. Pour over thesteaks,andserve.

VARIATIONS

VEAL SCALLOPS.Use5-to-6-ouncevealsteaks(slices fromthe loinorleg)½ inch thick. Season andbrownonboth sides inhot butterandoil,asdescribedinthemasterrecipe.Cooktomedium—untillightlyspringytothetouch.Deglazethepanwithmincedshallots,white wine, a dash of dry Madeira or port, and a sprinkling oftarragon.BONELESSCHICKENBREASTS.Foraquicksauté, I liketoremovetheskinand pound the breast meat between sheets of plastic wrap to athicknessof½inch.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,thenproceedtothesautéinclarifiedbutter.Cook thebreastsabout1minuteperside,until springyto the touch—carefulnot toovercook,butyoumustbesurethechickeniscookedtothejust-well-donestage—thejuices runclearyellowwithno tingeofpink.Deglaze thepanasdescribed,withminced shallots,drywhiteFrenchvermouth, andchicken stock; a sprinkling of tarragon goes nicely in the saucehere. SHRIMP IN LEMON AND GARLIC. Sauté 30 “large medium” peeled anddeveined rawshrimp in3 tablespoonsoliveoilwith1or2 largeclovesofgarlic,minced,andthemincedzest(yellowpartofpeel)

of½lemon.Whentheshrimphavecurled,in2minutesorso,andfeel springy, remove fromheat and tosswith2 tablespoons freshlemonjuice,dropsofsoysauce,andsaltandpeppertotaste.Tossagain,with2tablespoonsoffinefresholiveoilandasprinklingofmincedparsleyandfreshdill.SEASCALLOPSSAUTÉEDWITHGARLICANDHERBS.For1½pounds,serving6.Cutlarge scallops in thirds or quarters. Season with salt and pepperand, the moment before cooking, dredge in flour. Heat 2 to 3tablespoonsofclarifiedbutteroroliveoilinalargenonstickfryingpan,andwhenveryhotbutnotsmoking,turnthemintothepan.Toss every few seconds, swirling the pan by its handle. As theyrapidlybegintobrownaddalargecloveofmincedgarlicand1½tablespoonsofmincedshallots,then2tablespoonsofmincedfreshparsley. The scallops are done when just springy to the touch.Serveatonce.

JUICE-EXUDING PROBLEMS? The scallops you buy may well have been“plumped” ina saline solution that exudeswhen the scallopsarewarmed,makingapropersautéimpossible.Ifyouaredealingwithafishmonger,alwaysaskfor“dry”scallops.Inanycase,it’swisetotest themoutbybrieflyheating through3or4 inadrynonstickfryingpan.If liquidexudes,heatallofthembyhandfuls,drain—saving liquid for fish stock—dry, and thenproceed to your sautébutcutdownonthenormaltiming.

HAMBURGERS.SometimesIlikemyhamburgersperfectlyplainandatother times I want to flavor them. In any case, form the meatrather loosely into5-ouncepatties—about½ inch thick forquickcooking.PlainHamburgers.IfI’mtopanfrythemIrubthepanitselfwitha

little vegetable oil, heat it to almost smoking, and sauté thehamburgers about 1minute on each side. I give them the fingertest,asinthemasterrecipe—Ilikeminemediumrare,whentheyarebarelybeginningtotakeonalittlespring.

Rather than panfrying plain hamburgers, however, I dorecommend the stovetop grill pan with its ridged interior. Oil itlightly, heat it until almost smoking, and on go the hamburgers.The cooking fat runs out of themeat and off the ridges into thevalleys.Flavored Hamburgers. For 4 hamburgers, fold into the meat 1grated medium-size onion, salt and pepper, 3 tablespoons sourcream, and½ teaspoonmixedherbs such as ItalianorProvençalseasoning.Justbeforesautéing,turntheburgersinflourandshakeoff excess. Sauté on both sides in hot oil andmake the sauce asdirectedinthemasterrecipe.

TODREDGEORNOTTODREDGE

Dredging the food in a light coating of flour before the sautéhelps toholdthemeattogetherandalsogivesitalightprotectivecrusting.Youwillhavelittleornocaramelizationinthepan,andastosauceyoumaysimplywant tomakeabrownedbutter,as for the fish filletsmeunièrebelow. Or, if you have a thicker piece of meat that needs furthercooking,letitsimmerinthewineandbroth,andtheflourcoatingwillgiveyoualightlythickenedsauce.

Calf’sLiverandOnions

For4slicesofliver,5ounceseachand⅜inchthick.Slowlysauté3cupssliced onions in the butter and oil, and when tender and translucentraise the heat and let the onions brown lightly for several minutes.Removethemtoasidedish.Justbeforesautéingit,seasontheliveranddredgelightlyinflour,shakingoffexcess.Addalittlemorebutterandoiltothepan,heatuntilthebutterfoambeginstosubside,andsautétheliverforlessthanaminuteoneachside—itwillgetfurthercookingandis to be served medium rare. Remove the pan from heat, spread thecooked onions over the liver, and pour in ½ cup of red wine or drywhiteFrenchvermouth.Blend½tablespoonofDijon-typemustardinto¼ cup chicken broth, and blend into the rest of the liquid. Set over

moderateheatandbring to the slowboil,basting the liverandonionswiththesauceforaminuteortwo.Theliverisdonewhenjust lightlyspringytothetouch.

FilletsofSoleMeunière

For 4 fillets up to ½ inch thick and 5 to 6 ounces each. Just beforesautéing,seasonthefishwithsaltandpepperandturninflour,shakingoffexcess.Heatthebutterandoilinthepanuntilthebutterfoambeginstosubside,layinthefillets,andsautéforaboutaminuteoneachside,justuntilthefishbeginstotakeonalightspringinesstothetouch.Donotovercook—ifthefishflakes,itisoverdone.Removetoahotplatter,andsprinkleatablespoonofmincedfreshparsleyoverthefish.Rapidlywipethepancleanwithpapertowels(soflourresiduewillnotspecklethebuttertocome—oruseafreshpan).Heat2tablespoonsofunsaltedbutterinthepan,swishingitaboutandlettingitbrownlightly.Removethepanfromheat,squeezeinthejuiceofhalfalemon,and,ifyouwish,tossinaspoonfulofcapersbeforespooningthehotbutteroverthefish.

ThickPorkChops

Whenyourmeat is thickerthan½inch, it takes longertocook,whichmeansyoucouldbeburningtheoutsidebeforethe inside isdone.Youhavetwochoices.Eitherbrownthemeatonbothsidesandsetit initspanina375°Foventofinishcooking—whichworksverywellforsteaks,chops,andfish—orbrownthemeatoverhighheat,thencover-cookittofinishmoreslowly,asitsimmersinitssauce.For4porkchopsabout1¼inchesthick.Firstgivethema½-hourdry

marinade by rubbing in a little salt and pepper, allspice, and driedthyme.Drythemoffandbrownthemonbothsides.Thenpouraroundthem ¾ cup of dry white vermouth, ½ cup of chicken broth, and 2tablespoons of minced shallots. Cover the pan and let simmer slowly,basting rapidly every 4 to 5 minutes, until the meat is done to themediumstage—faintlypink.Thebestwaytotestistomakeaslitinonechop close to the bone. Remove the chops to hot plates, and spoonexcessfatoutofthepan.Reducetheliquidtoasyrupandpouroverthechops.

ThickVealChops

Cook them the same way as the pork chops, but omit the spicemarinade.Abitoftarragonwouldgonicelyinthesimmeringliquid,andit will want a swish of butter after it has reduced to its sauceconsistency.

SautéofBeefTenderloin

Cutthemeat into2-inchchunks—youwillprobablywant3chunks,orabout6ounces,perserving.Afterdryingthemoff,tossandbrownthemonallsidesforseveralminutesinhotbutterandoil,untilbeginningtotakeonspringinesstothetouch—theyshouldremainrare.Removetoasidedishandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Deglazethepanwith¼cupofdryMadeiraorport,andpourin½cupofheavycream.Returnthemeat to the pan. Bring to the simmer for a very fewminutes, bastingmeat with the sauce as it thickens lightly. Serve on hot plates anddecoratewithsprigsoffreshparsley.

SautéofPorkTenderloin

Use the same system for pork tenderloin, but give it the dry-spicemarinade suggested for the thick pork chops above. Youmaywish toomitthecreamfinish,usingchickenstockinstead.

ChickenSautéedinWhiteWine

For 2½ to 3 pounds of chicken parts, serving 4 people. Brown thechickenpiecesonallsidesinhotbutterandoil.Removethewingsandbreasts,whichneedlesscooking.Seasonlegsandthighs,coverthepan,and continue to cook over moderate heat for another 10 minutes,turningonce.Seasonthewhitemeatandreturnit tothepan.Stir in1tablespoonmincedshallots,⅔cupchickenbroth,½cupdrywhitewineorvermouth,and½teaspoondriedtarragonorProvençalherbs(seeboxbelow).Coverthepanandcookattheslowsimmer5to6minutesmore,turn, and baste the chicken pieces with pan juices, then continuecookinguntiltender—about25minutesinall.Removethechickentoahotplatter.Spoonofffatandboildowncookingliquidtoreducebyhalf.Offheat,swirlintheenrichmentbutter,pourthesauceoverthechicken,

andserve.

WHENISTHECHICKENDONE?Thefleshofthedrumsticksandthighsisjusttenderwhen pressed. The juices run clear yellow when the meat is prickeddeeply—ifthere’snojuice,youhaveovercookedit,butthechickenmustbecookedthrough.

VARIATIONS

APROVENÇALADDITION.Afterreturningthewhitemeattothepan,stirin2cupsoffreshtomatopulp,andcontinuewiththerecipe.Whenyouhaveremovedthechicken,boildownthesauceuntilthickandfine,andcarefullycorrectseasoning.CHICKEN PIPÉRADE. Inaseparatepan,sauté1cupofslicedonions inoliveoiluntiltenderthenadd1cupeachofslicedredandgreenpepper and a large clove of garlic, minced. Sauté together for amoment.Addtothechickenwhenyoureturnthewhitemeat.BONNE FEMME—ONIONS, POTATOES, ANDMUSHROOMS.After removing thewhitemeat, add to thedarkmeat3or4mediumYukon-goldpotatoes,quarteredandblanched,and8to12smallwhiteonions.Continuewiththerecipe.Afterreturningthewhitemeat,foldin1½cupsofpreviously sautéed quartered fresh mushrooms, and finish therecipe.

PROVENÇALHERBS—HERBESDEPROVENCE.—Amixtureofgrounddriedherbs,suchasbay,thyme,rosemary,andoregano.

BROILINGBroiling,wheretheheatcomesfromabove,isofcoursetheoppositeofbarbecuing,wheretheheatsourcecomesfrombelow.Broiling,however,hastheadvantagethatyouaremoreeasilyincontrol.Ifyourbroilerisso equipped, you can raise or lower the heat, or in any case you can

move the food nearer or farther from the broiler element. In someinstances you simply broil on both sides until the food is completelycooked, and in others you may find that broiling just on one side issufficient.Instillothercases,especiallywhenyouhavesomethinglargelikeabutterfliedroastingchicken,youwillwanttobroilandbrownthetwo sides but finish by roasting—very convenient when your oven isbothbroilerandroaster.Therearenorules,anditisquiteuptoyoutodecide.Herearesomeexamples.

MASTERRECIPE

BroiledButterfliedChickenServes4

Rather than broiling a chicken in pieces, which is easy to do but notwildlyexciting,andratherthanroastingitwhole,whichtakesanhourormore,butterflyyourchicken. It cooks inhalf the timeandmakesagreatpresentation.

A2½-to-3-poundbroiler-fryerchicken,butterflied

2Tbsmeltedbutterblendedwith2tspvegetableoil

Saltandfreshlygroundpepper

½tspdriedthymeoranherbmixture

FortheDeglazingSauce

1Tbsmincedshallotorscallion

½cupchickenbrothand/ordrywhitewineorvermouth

1to2Tbsbutter,forenrichment

TOBUTTERFLYACHICKEN.Withheavyshearsoracleaver,cutdownclosetothebackboneoneachside,andremovethebone.Spreadthechickenopen,skin side up, and pound on the breast with your fist to flatten thechicken.Cutoffanddiscard the littlenubbinsat thewingelbows,andfold thewingsakimbo.Tohold the legs inplace,make½-inch slits inthe skinoneach sideof the lowerbreast and tuck thedrumstick ends

throughtheslits.

Preheatthebroilertohigh.Brushthechickenalloverwithbutterandoil and arrange it skin side down in a shallow pan. Set it under thebroilersothechickensurfaceisabout6inchesfromtheheatsource.Letbroilforabout5minutes,thenbasterapidlywiththebutterandoil,andcontinueforanother5minutes.Thesurfaceshouldbebrowningnicely;if not, adjust the heat or the distance of chicken from broiler. Basteagain, this time with the juices accumulated in the pan, and broilanother5minutes.Thenseasonwithsaltandpepper, turnthechickenskinsideup,andseasonthesurface.Continuebroilingandbastingwiththepan juicesevery5minutes foranother10 to15minutes,until thechickenisdone.Removethechickentoacarvingboardand let it rest for5minutes.

Meanwhile,make thedeglazing sauceby first spooningcooking fatoffthejuicesinthepan.Thenstirtheshallotintothepanandsimmerforaminuteorsoontopofthestove,untilthejuicesaresyrupy.Swirlintheenrichmentbutter,pouroverthechicken,andserve.

VARIATIONS

BROIL/ROASTEDBUTTERFLIEDROASTINGCHICKEN—ANDTURKEY.Broil/roastingabig6-to-7-pound butterflied roaster or capon or a 12-pound turkeytakes,again,halfthetimeyou’dneedifyouroasteditwhole.Useexactly the same system as for the preceding broiled chickenexceptthat,whenyouhavebrownedtheunderside,andgiventheskinsidethebeginningofabrown,youthenswitchfrombroilingto roasting. Just finish the cooking in the oven—I like to roastmine at 350°F. A 6-to-7-pound bird takes 1 to 1¼ hours; a 12-pound turkey, about 2 hours. See the broil/roast times box formoredetails.

BROIL/ROASTCHICKENANDTURKEYTIMES

Alwaysallowanadditional20to30minutes,justtobesafe.

ButterfliedRoastingChickens4to5pounds/45minutesto1hour5to6pounds/1to1¼hours

ButterfliedTurkeys8to12pounds/1½to2hours12to16pounds/2to2½hours16to20pounds/2½to3hours

DEVILEDGAMEHENSOR POUSSINS.For2birds,serving4people.Butterflythebirdsandbroilasinthemasterrecipe,butgivethemonly10minutes per side. Meanwhile, whisk together, to make amayonnaise-like sauce, ⅓ cup Dijon mustard, a large mincedshallot, pinches of dried tarragon or rosemary, drops of Tabascosauce,and3tablespoonsofthepanjuices.Paintthisovertheskinsidesofthebirds,thenpatonalayeroffreshwhitebreadcrumbs.Bastewiththeremainingjuices.Finishcookingunderthebroiler.

FRESH BREAD CRUMBS. Whenever bread crumbs are called for, alwaysmake your own out of fresh homemade-type bread. Cut off thecrusts,slicethebreadinto1-inchchunks,andpulsenotmorethan2 cups at a time in a food processor, or 1 cup at a time in anelectricblender. It’s useful tomakea lotwhile youare at it andfreezewhatyoudon’tneed.

BroiledFishSteaks—About¾InchThick

For salmon, swordfish, tuna, bluefish, shark, mahimahi, and so forth.Hereyouconcentrateonbrowningthetopofthefish;noneedtoturnit.Dry the fish, paint both sideswithmeltedbutter or vegetable oil, andseasonwithsaltandpepper.Arrangeinashallowpanthatwilljustholdthemcomfortably.Pouraroundthesteaks⅛inchofdrywhitewineorFrench vermouth and set 2 inches below a preheated broiler. After 1

minute,brushalittlesoftbutterontopofeachandsqueezeondropsoflemon juice. Continue broiling about 5 minutes more, or until lightlyspringy to the touch—cooked through but still juicy. Serve with thecookingjuicesspoonedover.

VARIATIONS

THICK FISH STEAKS—1 TO 2 INCHES THICK.Broil tobrown themnicely, thenfinishoffina375°Foven. FISH FILLETS. For such fish as salmon, cod, hake, mackerel, trout.Leave the skinon, to keep the fish in shapeduring cooking, andfollowdirectionsfortheprecedingfishsteaks.

LambBrochettes

Cutroasting-qualitylamb,suchaslegorloin,into1½-inchchunks.Youmaywishtomarinatethemforseveralhoursorovernight,assuggestedbelow; otherwise, season and oil the meat. Thread onto skewers,alternatingeachpiecewitha squareofblanchedbaconandapieceofimportedbayleaf.Arrangeonanoiledbroilingpanorinahingedrack.Broil 2 inches fromheat, turning every2minutes for severalminutes,untilthemeatisjustspringytothetouch.

HERBANDLEMONMARINADEFORLAMBORBEEF.Hereisabasicformulathatyoumayvaryas youwish. For every2poundsofmeat,mix the following in abowl: 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, 1 tablespoon soysauce,1teaspoongroundrosemary,thyme,oregano,orProvençalherbs,2largeclovespuréedgarlic,and¼cupvegetableoil.

OILS—FOR COOKING, FLAVORING, AND SALADS.Use fresh-tasting, neutral-flavoredoilsforcooking,suchaslightolive,canola,orothervegetableoils.Oliveoilsfor flavoring and salads can be mild or fruity, and since they havebecomeastatussymbol,youcanpayenormouspricesforsomeofthoselabeled“extravirgin.”Testthemoutyourselftofindthebrandorbrandsthatsuityou.

NOTE:“EVOO”iscontemporarycooktalkfor“extravirginoliveoil.”

BroiledFlankSteak

Tokeepthemeatinshapewhilecooking,lightlyscorethesurface(cutcrosshatches⅛ inch deep) on each sidewith the point of your small,sharpknife.Giveitthemarinadetreatmentifyouwish,for½houruptoa day or two; or seasonwith salt, pepper, and a little soy sauce, andbrushwithvegetableoil.Setcloseunderthebroilerfor2to3minutesoneachside,until justbeginningtotakeonspringinesstothetouch—forrare.Toserve,cutintothin,slantingslicesacrossthegrain.

BroiledHamburgers

Prepare them as described for sautéed hamburgers but omit the flourcoating.Brushwithcookingoilandsetcloseunderthehotbroilerfor1to2minutesoneachside—whenjustbeginningtotakeonspringinesstothetouch,theyaremediumrare.Youmightwanttotopthemwithoneoftheflavoredbutters.

ButterfliedLegofLamb

Halfanhouror thedaybeforecooking, trimoff excess fatand spreadthe lamb out skin side down. Make lengthwise slashes in the 2 largelobesofmeatandspreadouttoeventhemass.Brushthefleshsidewiththe meat marinade, or season with salt, pepper, and rosemary orProvençal herbs, and oil both sides. Set 7 to 8 inches under the hotbroiler element and brown nicely for about 10minutes on each side,bastingwithoil.(Browningmaybecompletedanhourorsoinadvance.Seeboxbelow.)Finishina375°Foven,roastingfor15to20minutestoameat-thermometerreadingof140°Fformediumrare.Letrest10to15minutes before carving,which allows themeat juices to return to theflesh.

BROIL/ROASTING AHEAD OF TIME. For a large piece of meat, like a butterfliedroastingchickenorabonedandbutterfliedlegoflamborporkloin,youcan do the preliminary browning somewhat in advance. Cover loosely

andleaveatroomtemperature,thenfinishitofflater.

Roast/BroiledButterfliedPorkLoin

Here you roast it first, until almost done, then finish it off under thebroilertobrownandcrispthesurface.For8people,buyyourselfa3½-pound boneless pork-loin roast and untie it; it is already butterflied.Remove excess fat but leave a ¼-inch layer on top. Slash the thicksectionsofmeatlengthwisetoevenitout,andrubthemeateitherwithdry spice marinade, or with salt, pepper, allspice, and pulverizedimportedbayleaf.Oilthemeat,cover,andrefrigerateovernight.Roastitfatsideupforaboutanhourat375°F,toameat-thermometerreadingof140°F.Halfanhourbeforeserving,makedecorativecross-slashes inthefatsideandrubin½tablespoonorsoofcoarsesalt.Brownslowlyunderthebroilertoaninternaltemperatureof162°to165°F.

DRYSPICEMARINADEFORPORKPRODUCTS,GOOSE,ANDDUCK.Blendthefollowinggroundspicesinascrew-toppedjaranduse½teaspoonperpoundofmeat.Forabout 1¼ cups: 2 tablespoons each of clove, mace, nutmeg, paprika,thyme,andimportedbay;1tablespooneachofallspice,cinnamon,andsavory;and5tablespoonswhitepeppercorns.

SALT PROPORTIONS. Ingeneral, theproportionof salt touse in liquids is1½teaspoons per quart. The proportion of salt to raw meat is ¾ to 1teaspoonperpound.

FLAVORED BUTTER TOPPING—FOR BROILED MEATS, FISH, CHICKEN. To make the standardmaîtred’hôtel,beatdropsoflemonjuiceintoastickofsoftenedunsaltedbutter, addinga teaspooneachofminced shallot andparsley, and saltandpeppertotaste.Otheralternativesoradditionscanbepuréedgarlic,anchovies,Dijonmustard, chives or other herbs, and so forth.Make alargerquantity,roll it intoasausageshape,wrapit,andfreezeit; it isreadyforinstantuse.

ROASTINGRoastingorbakingmeanstocookfoodintheoven,usuallyinanopenpan—sometimes with a cover, but not with a liquid. Roasting with aliquid is officially called braising or stewing. Roasting is certainly themostpainlesswayofcookingawholechickenor turkey,primeribsofbeef,legsoflamb,andsoforth.Fortunately,aroastisaroastisaroast—allofthemaredoneinmuchthesameway.Giveyourselfplentyoftime.Alwayspreheattheovenatleast15minutesbeforeyoubegin,andstarttesting rapidly with your instantmeat thermometer 10 to 15minutesbeforetheendofyourestimatedroastingtime.Rememberthattheroastneedsa15-to-20-minute restbefore carving,whichallows thehotandbursting juices to retreat back into the meat. A large roast will staywarm a good 20 minutes at least before being carved, so planaccordingly.Note:All roasting times in this book are for conventionalovens.

MASTERRECIPE

RoastPrimeRibsofBeefFora3-rib8-poundroast,serving6to8people

Roastingtimeat325°F:2hoursformediumrare—internaltemperature125°to130°F(about15minutesperpound).

1Tbsvegetableoil

Saltandfreshlygroundpepper

FortheDeglazingSauce

½cupeachchoppedcarrotsandonions

½tspdriedthyme

½cupchoppedfreshplumtomatoes

2cupsbeefbroth

Preheat theoven to325°F.Rub theexposedendsof the roastwithoiland a sprinkling of salt.Arrange the roast rib side down in a roastingpanandsetinthelowerthirdofthepreheatedoven.After½hour,bastetheendsoftheroastwithaccumulatedfat,strewthecarrotsandonions

into the pan, and baste with the fat. Continue roasting, basting againonce or twice, to ameat-thermometer reading of 125° to 130°F at thelargeend.Removetheroast.Spoonfatoutoftheroastingpan.Stirinthethymeandtomatoes,scrapingupcoagulatedroastingjuices.Blendinthebrothand boil severalminutes to concentrate flavor. Correct seasoning, andstrainintoawarmsauceboat.

ROASTBEEF:SIZESANDAPPROXIMATEROASTINGTIMESTOMEDIUMRARE(125°to130°F)

5ribs,12lbsserves12to16roastsabout3hoursat325°F4 ribs, 9½ lbs serves 9 to 12 roasts about 2 hours and 20 minutes at325°F3ribs,8lbs,serves6to8/roastsabout2hoursat325°F2ribs,4½lbs/serves5to6/roasts15minutesat450°F,45minutesat325°F

ROASTBEEF:TEMPERATURESANDMINUTESPERPOUND

Rare,120°F,12to13minutesperpoundMediumrare,125°to130°F,about15minutesperpoundMedium,140°F,17to20minutesperpound

RoastTopLoin(NewYorkStrip)ofBeef

Abonelessready-to-roast4½-poundstripserves8to10.Timing:1¼to1½ hours; roast at 425°F for 15 minutes, then at 350°F, to internaltemperature 120°F for rare or 125°F for medium rare. (It’s thecircumferenceofthemeatthatdictatesthetiming;thusalllengthsroastin about the same time—a little less or a little more, depending onweight.) Oil and salt the 2 exposed ends, and roast fat side up on anoiled rack, strewing ½ cup chopped onions and carrots in the panhalfwaythrough.Makethesauceassuggestedinthemasterrecipe.

RoastTenderloinofBeef

A boneless ready-to-roast 4-pound tenderloin of beef serves 6 to 8.Timing: 35 to 45minutes at 400°F, to internal temperature 120°F forrare,or125°Fformediumrare.Justbeforeroasting,saltthemeatlightlyandbrushwithclarifiedbutter.Setintheupper-thirdleveloftheoven;rapidly turnandbastewithclarifiedbutterevery8minutes.For saucesuggestions,seetheboxbelow.

SIMPLE HORSERADISH SAUCE—ESPECIALLY FOR ROAST BEEF. Whisk 2 tablespoons Dijonmustardinto5tablespoonsbottledhorseradish.Fold in½cuporsoofsourcream,andsaltandpeppertotaste.

RoastLegofLamb

A 7-pound leg, hip and sirloin removed, weighs about 5 pounds andserves 8 to 10. Timing: about 2 hours in a 325°F oven to internaltemperature140°Fformediumrare;to125°to130°Fforrare;to120°Fforbloodrare.Beforeroasting,youmaywishtopuncturethemeatinadozenplacesandpush in sliversofgarlic, thenbrush the surfacewithoil,orpaintonamustardcoating.Roastfatsideupinapreheatedovenasdescribedinthemasterrecipe,rapidlybastingevery15minuteswithaccumulatedfat.Afteranhour,strewin½cupofchoppedonionsandseveral large cloves of smashed unpeeled garlic. Make the sauce asdescribed in themaster recipe, adding½ teaspoonof rosemary, and2cupsofchickenbroth.Seealsotheboxbelowforothersuggestions.

A SIMPLE SAUCE FOR LAMB. Have the lamb hip-and tailbones (plus other lambbonesorscraps ifavailable)choppedorsawedinto½-inchpieces,andbrownwithalittleoilinaheavypanwithachoppedcarrot,onion,andcelerystalk.Sprinkleonatablespoonofflourandbrown,stirringforaminuteortwo.Addachoppedplumtomato,animportedbayleaf,andabigpinchof rosemary,plus chickenbrothandwater to cover.Simmerslowly, loosely covered, for 2 hours, adding more liquid as needed.Strain, degrease, and boil down to concentrate flavor.Use this plus½

cupofdrywhitewinetomakeyourdeglazingsauce.SimpleSauceforMeatandPoultry.Followthesamegeneralsystemasaboveforothermeatandpoultrysauces,usingbeeforpoultrybonesandscraps,otherherbs,andbeefratherthanchickenbroth,asappropriate.Port orMadeiraSauce.Use exactly the same system, substitutingdryportorMadeirawineforthedrywhitewine.

LEG OF LAMB NOTES.Whether you buy thewhole leg, the shank end, or thesirloinend,youroastitinthesameway.Thelegismucheasiertocarvewhenthehip-andtailboneshavebeenremoved.Don’tbuyawhole legweighingmore than7½poundsunless youknow it hasbeenproperlyaged—otherwiseitcanbeunpleasantlytough.

ImportedLegsofLamb(NewZealand,Iceland,etc.)

These are smaller, younger, and tenderer than most American lamb.Either roast at 325°F as described above, counting on 25minutes perpound, or, since they are so tender, you may wish to roast them at400°F,countingonanhourorless.

RackofLamb

Tworacksserve4or5people,2to3chopseach.Iftherackshavenotbeen“frenched,”scrapeoffthefattymeatbetweentheribsandfromthechopbones.Scorethefatsideoftheribslightlyandpaintwithmustardcoating(seeboxbelow).Roastfor10minutesat500°F,sprinkle½cupfreshbreadcrumbsoverthemeat,anddrizzleonalittlemeltedbutter.Roast20minutesmore,ortointernaltemperature125°F,forredrare,alittlelonger,to140°F,formediumrare.Letrest5minutesbeforecuttinginto1-ribchops.

HERBAL GARLIC AND MUSTARD COATING. Whisk together to a mayonnaise-likeconsistency⅓cupDijonmustardwith3largeclovesofpuréedgarlic,1tablespoonsoy sauce,½ teaspoongroundrosemary,and3 tablespoons

lightoliveoil.Spreadalloveryourlegoflambandletmarinate½hourorcoverand refrigerate severalhoursorovernight. Ifyouuse this,nobasting is necessary and youwill have few if any roasting juices; youmaywishtomakeaseparatesauce.

RoastLoinofPork

Fora4-poundbonelessroast,serving8to10.Roastingtime:2¼to2½hoursat350°F,tointernaltemperature160°F.Buythecentercutoftheloin,foldedintwoandtiedfatsideouttomakearoastabout5inchesincircumference.Ihighlyrecommendthespicemarinade.Touseit,untiethe roast and rub it all over with the mixture, using¼ teaspoon perpound.Lightlyscorethefatsideandretie.Coverandrefrigerateforanhour or up to 48 hours. Roast, basting occasionally, as for themasterrecipe, andafter1½hours strew into thepan½cupeachof choppedcarrotsandonionsand3largeclovesofsmashedunpeeledgarlic.Makethesauceasdescribed,orprepareaport-winesauce.

VARIATIONS

ROAST FRESHHAM (LEGOF FRESHPORK).A7-to-8-poundboneless legserves20 to 24. Timing: about 3½ hours, at 425°F for 15minutes andthen at 350°F, to internal temperature 160°F. A preroastingmarinadeisrecommended:untietheporkandgiveita2-dayspicemarinade,asdescribedfortheporkloin,thenretie.Afterbrowningthe roast for15minutes, protect theareasnot coveredby fatbydraping8to10stripsofblanchedbaconoverthemeat.Continueroasting at 350°F as described for the pork loin, strewing in thevegetables after 2½ hours. Remove the bacon strips the last ½hour.Theportwinesaucewouldgonicelyhere.

BAKED SMOKEDHAMAND SHOULDER.Thesecomefullyorpartiallycooked.Follow the directions on the label for baking them. I prefer tobraisetheminwine.

MeatLoaf

Whetheryouroastitfreeformintheovenorbakeitinaloafpan,meatloafiscertainlyanall-timefavorite,as,inFrance,isitscousinthepâté.Since they are so closely related, I consider the one a variation of theotherandherearetwoofmyfavorites.

BEEFANDPORKMEATLOAF.Fora2-quartloafserving12,sauté2cupsofmincedonionsin2tablespoonsofoiluntiltenderandtranslucent,raiseheatandbrownlightly.Tossinabowlwith1cupfreshbreadcrumbs,2poundsgroundbeefchuck,1poundgroundporkshoulder,2eggs,½cupbeefbroth, ⅔ cup grated cheddar cheese, 1 large clove puréed garlic, 2teaspoons salt, ½ teaspoon pepper, 2 teaspoons each of thyme andpaprika, 1 teaspoon each of allspice and oregano. To check seasoning,sautéa spoonful.Pack intoabuttered2-quart loafpanand topwith2imported bay leaves. Bake about 1½ hours at 350°F until juices runalmostclearyellowandloafislightlyspringytothetouch.Servehotwithtomatosauce,orletcoolandthenchill.

VARIATION

FRENCH-STYLECOUNTRYPÂTÉ.Fora6-cuploafpanserving8to10.Sauté⅔ cup minced onions in 2 tablespoons butter until tender andtranslucent. Blendwith 1¼pounds pork sausagemeat,¾ poundground chicken breast, ½ pound pork liver or beef liver, 1 cupfreshbreadcrumbs,1egg,⅓cupgoatcheeseorcreamcheese,1medium clove puréed garlic, 3 tablespoons cognac, 1 tablespoonsalt,¼ teaspoon each ground allspice, thyme, imported bay, andpepper.Sautéaspoonfultocheckseasoning.Packintoabutteredloafpanandcoverwithwaxpaperandfoil.Setinalargerpanofboiling water and bake 1¼ to 1½ hours, until juices are almostpaleyellow.Letreposeforanhour,thensetaboardortwinpanontopanda

5-poundweight (like canned goods).When cool, cover and chill.Let“cure”foradayortwobeforeserving.

RoastChicken

A3½-to-4-poundchickenserves4or5people.Timing:1hourand10to20 minutes, at 425°F for 15 minutes and then at 350°F, to internaltemperatureof170°F.Seeboxbelow.Beforeroasting,washthechickenrapidlyinhotwateranddrythoroughly.Foreaseincarving,cutoutthewishbone.Seasoninsidethecavitywithsaltandpepperand,ifyouwish,athinlyslicedlemon,asmallonion,andahandfulofceleryleaves.Saltthechickenlightlyalloverandrubwithsoftbutter.Tiedrumstickendstogether, and set breast up in an oiled V-shaped rack (or fold wingsakimboandsetonanoiled flat rack).After its15-minutebrowning inthehotoven,reduceheatto350°F,basterapidlywithaccumulatedpanjuices, and continue, basting rapidly every 8 to 10 minutes. After ½hour, strew ½ cup each of chopped carrots and onions into the pan,bastingthem.Whenthechickenisdone,makethesauceasdescribedinthemasterrecipe.

WARNING:Becauseofpossiblyharmfulbacteriainrawchicken,besuretowashallutensilsandsurfacesthechickenmayhavetouched.

WHEN IS A ROAST CHICKEN DONE? When an instant meat thermometer insertedbetween the thigh and breast reads 165°–170°F, its legsmove in theirsockets, the thickestpartof thedrumstick is tenderwhenpressed,andwhenitisprickeddeeplyitsjuicesrunclearyellow.Whenyouholdthechickenbreast-up,theverylastdropsofjuicetodrainfromtheventrunclearyellow.

GIBLETS—THELIVER,GIZZARD,ANDNECK.Usethegizzardandneckformakinglightchickenstock.Tuck the liver inside thecavityand let it roastwith thechicken, or save it in your freezer to make chicken-liver sauté or aFrenchpâté.

TIMING FOR ROAST CHICKEN. Count on a basic 45minutes plus 7minutes perpound.Inotherwords,a3-poundchickentakesthebasic45plus(7×3)21,whichequals66minutes,orjustoveranhour.

VARIATIONS

ROASTPOUSSINSANDGAMEHENS.About1poundeach.Preparethemasforthe preceding chicken, but roast them for 35 to 45minutes in a425°Foven,bastingrapidlyseveraltimes.ROASTTURKEY.Counton½poundofturkeyperserving,or1poundperperson,withleftovers.Roastat325°F(seeboxbelowforhigh-temperatureroasting).Timingforunstuffedbirds:12to14pounds,about4hours;16to20pounds,about5hours;20to26pounds,about 6 hours. Add 20 to 30 minutes in all for stuffed birds.Internal temperatures: 175°F at the thickest portion of the leg;165°F in the breast; 160°F in the center of the stuffing. Stuffingamountsare½to¾cupperpoundofturkey,makingroughly2to2½quartsofstuffingfora14-to-16-poundbird.Ifranklypreferaflavoring in the cavity, as suggested for the roast chicken, ratherthan a stuffing, and I cook the stuffing separately. Make turkeystockwiththeneckandscraps,asforchickenstock.Savetheliver,heart,andgizzardforgibletgravy(seeboxbelow).Topreparetheturkey for roasting, cut out the wishbone and cut off the wingnubbins.Skewertheneckskintothebackbone,andskewerorsewthecavityclosedorcloseitwithfoil.Rubtheturkeywithsaltandvegetable oil. Roast breast up on an oiled rack, basting rapidlyevery 20 minutes or so. Start testing rapidly for doneness 20minutesbefore theestimated roasting time—andnote thata sureindication of approaching doneness is that turkey juices begin toexudeintothepan.

WARNING: Do not stuff your turkey in advance, since the stuffingcould start to sour and spoil inside the bird—goodbye, happyholidays.

DEFROSTINGFROZENTURKEY.Keeptheturkeyinitsoriginalwrapper.A20-poundbirdtakes3to4daystodefrostintherefrigerator,about12hoursinasinkfulofwater.

GIBLETGRAVY.Followprocedureforthesimplesauceformeatandpoultry,browning the chopped turkey neck and scraps as described. Peel thegizzardandaddittosimmerwiththerestoftheingredients,removingitafteraboutanhour,orwhenitistender.Minceit.Sautétheheartandliverbrieflyinbutter,mincethem,andaddtothefinishedsaucealongwith themincedgizzard, simmering for severalminutesandadding, ifyouwish,aspoonfulorsoofdryportorMadeira.

HIGH-TEMPERATUREROASTING.Inmysystem,youstarttheroastingat500°F,andin15to20minutes,whenthejuicesbegintoburn,reducetheheatto450°F. Add the chopped vegetables and 2 cups of water to the pan,pouring in a little more water now and then as needed to preventburningandsmoking.A14-pounderwillroastinabout2ratherthan4hours.High heatmakes a brown and juicy turkey, but you have littlecontrol in such a hot oven, and I think the slower, longer cookingproducesamoretenderbird.

Steam-RoastedDuck

Thisisoneofmyfavoriterecipes,whereyounotonlygetridofexcessfat, but you get delicious breast meat, tender thighs, and beautifullycrispbrownskin.Notethatyoumaycompletethefinalroastinganhourorsoafterthesecond,orbraising,step.Fora5-to-5½-poundroasterducklingserving4.Cutoutthewishbone,

andchopoff thewingsat theelbows.Salt the interiorandruboutsideand inside with cut lemon. Place breast-up on a rack over 1 inch ofwaterinaheavy,coveredcasseroleandsteamfor30minutesontopofthestove.Draintheduck,pouroutsteamingliquid(degreaseandsaveforstock).Covertherackwithfoilandsettheduckbreast-downonit.Strewaround½cupeachofchoppedonions,carrots,andcelery,pourin1½cupsof redorwhitewine.Cover closelyandbring to the simmer,thenbraisefor30minutesina325°Foven.Finallysettheduckbreast-uponarackinashallowpanandroast30to40minutesmoreat375°F,untilthelegsfeelreasonablytender.Theskinwillbebeautifullybrown

andcrisp.Meanwhile,degreasethebraisingjuices,mashthevegetablesinto them, andboil down rapidlyuntil almost syrupy. Strain, andyouwillhavejustenoughfragrantsaucetomoisteneachserving.

Steam-RoastedGoose

Fora9½-to-11-poundroastergooseserving8to10.Useessentiallythesame system as for duck, but give it a trussing by running a skewerthrough the carcass at the shoulder to secure thewings in place, andanotherthroughthehipstosecurethelegs,thentiethedrumstickendstogetheragainstthetailpiece.Toaidinfatremovalpricktheskinwithasharpskeweraroundthelowerbreastandthighs.Countonabout1hourforthefirstbreast-upsteaming,1½to2hoursfortheovenbraising,and30to40minutesforthefinalovenbrowning.Makethebraisingliquidas for theduck, butwith2½cups ofwineor chicken stock.Youmaywishtothicken it lightlyat theendbysimmering it fora fewminuteswith1½tablespoonsofcornstarchblendedwith½cupofdryportwine.

RoastWholeFish

Forbass,bluefish,char,cod,mackerel,salmon,trout,andothers.Thisisoneof the simplest andeasiestways to cooka fairly largewhole fish,whichroastsdeliciouslyinitsownjuices.Timingina400°Fovenfora6-to-8-poundfishis35to45minutes;4to6pounds,25to30minutes;2to4pounds,15to20minutes.Scaleandevisceratethefish,removethegills,andtrimthetailandfinswithscissors.Sprinklesaltandpepperinthe cavity and tuck in a handful of fresh parsley sprigs or dill weed.Brush the outside of the fish with vegetable oil and set on an oiledbakingsheet.Roastinthemiddlelevelofthepreheatedovenuntilyoucansmell the juicesbeginningtoexude,meaningthe fish isdone—theback fincanbeeasilypulledout,and therewillbenobloody tinge inthe cavity. Serve with lemon, melted butter, a butter sauce, orhollandaise.

VARIATION

FORSMALLER,MOREDELICATEFISH,LIKETROUTANDSMALLMACKEREL.A1-poundfishneeds15to20minutesat425°F.Preparethefishasdescribed,and

brush itwith oil ormelted butter. Just before roasting, roll it inflour,shakingoffexcess,thenroastitonanoiledbakingsheet.

STEWING,BRAISING,ANDPOACHINGWhenfoodcooksinaliquiditiseitherstewed,braised,orpoached.Thefirst and simplest is the stew, typifiedby thepot-au-feuboileddinner,where meat and aromatic vegetables simmer together in a big pot.Braising is more sophisticated, since the meat is first browned, thencooked in a fragrant liquid—beef bourguignon is the classic examplehere.Poachingisforfragileitemslikefilletsofsoleinwhitewine,whereasmallamountofliquidisatthebarestsimmer.

STEWING

MASTERRECIPE

PotauFeuBoiledDinnerServes8

Cookingtime:2to4hours,unsupervised.

2quartsbrownbeefstock(andnotethatifyou’remakingastock,thebeefcancookalongwithit),orbeefbouillonandwater

Optional,foradditionalflavor:anybeefbonesandscraps,cookedorraw

1largeherbbouquet

Aromaticvegetables,roughlychopped:3largepeeledcarrots,3largepeeledonions,1largewashedleek,3largeceleryribswithleaves

About5poundsbonelessstewingbeef(orsufficientbone-inmeat),suchasheeloftheround,foreshank,neckpotroast,chuck,brisket,shortribs—allonekindoramixture

Vegetablegarnishsuggestions,anyorallofthefollowing:2or3pieceseachofturnips,parsnips,carrots,smallwhiteonions,cabbagewedges,boilingpotatoes.

Bring the stock to the boil in a large potwith the optional bones and

scraps, the herb bouquet, and the aromatic vegetables.Meanwhile, tiethemeatintoaneatshapewithwhitecottontwine,andplaceitinthepot,addingwaterifnecessarytocoverby1inch.Bringtothesimmer,skimoffsurfacescumforseveralminutes,thencoverthepotlooselyandletsimmerslowlyuntilthemeatistenderwhenpiercedwithafork—cutoffandeatapiecetobesure.Ifsomepiecesaredoneearly,removetoabowl and cover with a little of the cooking stock. When the meat isdone, remove it from the pot, strain and degrease the cooking stock,correctseasoning,andreturnittothepotwiththemeat.Thestewwillkeepwarmforagoodhourbeforeserving,ormaybereheated,looselycovered.Meanwhile,cookseparatelywhatevervegetablesyouhavechosenina

bitof the cooking stock, andwhenyouare ready to serve,drain theircooking liquids into a saucepan. Then add a sufficient quantity of thecookingliquidtomakearichstocktoservewithyourpotaufeu.Slicethe meat, surround with the vegetables, and baste with the stock,pouringtherestintoasauceboattopassatthetable.Accompany,ifyouwish,withFrenchcornichons,coarsesalt,andhorseradishsauce.

HERB BOUQUET. For a large herb bouquet, tie 8 parsley sprigs, 1 largeimported bay leaf, 1 teaspoondried thyme, 4whole cloves or allspiceberries, and 3 large cloves of smashed unpeeled garlic together inwashed cheesecloth. Sometimes the garlic should be omitted, and youcansubstituteceleryleavesand/orsplitleeks.

VARIATIONS

OTHERMEATS.Includeorsubstituteothermeatsinthestew,suchasshoulderofporkorveal,orPolishsausage.Oryoumaywishtousea fine stewinghen,whichyoucan includewith thebeefor cookseparately,inthislattercaseusingchickenratherthanbeefstock.BLANQUETTE OF VEAL. For 4 to 5 pounds of real pale-pink special-fedvealcutinto2-inchchunks(acombinationofbonelessandbone-inchuck,shank,neck,andbreast),serving6people.Simmeringtime:

about1½hours.Bringthevealtothesimmerfor2to3minutesinalargepotofwateruntilthescumceasestorise.Drain.Washoffthevealandthepot,returnvealtopot,thenpourinveal,chicken,orturkeystockorcannedchickenbrothandwatertocoverby½inch. Add a large peeled and chopped onion, a peeled choppedcarrot, a large chopped celery stalk, and a small herb bouquetminusgarlic.Saltlightly,coverthepotloosely,andsimmerabout1½hours, untilmeat is fork-tender. Drain stock into a saucepanand returnmeat to pot. Degrease cooking liquid, and boil downrapidlyuntilreducedtoabout3cups.Meanwhile,makeaveloutésauce with 4 tablespoons butter, 5 tablespoons flour, and thecooking liquid, enriching it, if you wish, with a little cream.Simmerthevealtowarmbrieflyinthesaucealongwith24smallwhite-braisedonionsand½poundofsmallsimmeredmushrooms.

NOTE:“Real”vealisacalfeitherfedonmother’smilkoronmilkby-products. “Free-range” veal, which is actually “baby beef,”producesanuglygray-brownblanquetteandan inferior sauce. Itwill,however,makeanacceptablebrownstew,usingthefollowingbeefbourguignonsystem.

BLANQUETTE OF CHICKEN OR TURKEY. Use cut-up roasting or stewingchicken,orturkeyparts,cookingthemthesameway.

BRAISINGIn these recipes the meat is sautéed or browned before the actualcookingbegins.Remembertherulesforsautéing:themeatwon’tbrownunlessyoudryit,setthepanoverhighheat,anddon’tcrowdthemeatinthepan.

MASTERRECIPE

BeefBourguignon—BeefinRedWineSauceServes6to8

Cookingtime:about2½hours.

Optional,buttraditionalforaddedflavor:6ouncesblanchedbaconlardons

2to3Tbscookingoil

About4poundstrimmedbeefchuck,cutinto2-inchcubes

Saltandfreshlygroundpepper

2cupsslicedonions

1cupslicedcarrots

1bottleredwine(suchaszinfandelorChianti)

2cupsbeefstockorcannedbeefbroth

1cupchoppedtomatoes,freshorcanned

1mediumherbbouquet

Beurremaniéforthesauce:3Tbsflourblendedtoapastewith2Tbsbutter

Forthegarnish:24brown-braisedsmallwhiteonionsand3cupssautéedquarteredmushrooms

(If using lardons, sauté them to brown lightly in a little oil; set themaside and add to simmer with the beef, using the rendered fat inbrowning.)Choosealargefryingpanandbrownthechunksofmeatonall sides inhot oil, seasonwith salt andpepper, and turn them into aheavycasserole.Removeallbutalittlefatfromthefryingpan,addtheslicedvegetablesandbrownthem,andaddtothemeat.Deglazethepanwithwine,pouringitintothecasserolealongwithenoughstockalmosttocoverthemeat.Stirinthetomatoesandaddtheherbbouquet.Bringto the simmer, cover, and simmer slowly, either on the stove or in apreheated 325°F oven, until the meat is tender—eat a little piece tocheck.Drainthroughacolandersetoverasaucepanandreturnthemeattothecasserole.Pressjuicesoutoftheresidueintothecookingliquid,thendegrease and boil down the liquid to 3 cups. Off heat, whisk in thebeurremanié, then simmer for 2minutes as the sauce thickens lightly.Correct seasoning and pour over the meat, folding in the onions and

mushrooms.(Maybecompletedadayinadvancetothispoint.)Toserve,bring to the simmer,bastingmeatandvegetableswith thesauceforseveralminutesuntilthoroughlyhotthroughout.

BLANCHEDBACONANDLARDONS.Whenyoucan’tfindapieceofporkfattoprotectthesurfaceofroastingmeat,useslicedbaconorsaltpork,butyouneedto remove its smokyor salty taste.Todo so,drop6 to8 slices into2quartsofcoldwater,bringtotheboil,andsimmer6to8minutes.Drain,rinseincoldwater,anddryonpapertowels.Lardons,piecesofblanchedbacon or salt pork cut into¼-inch-thick pieces about 1 inch long, areusedforflavoringdishessuchasbeefbourguignonandcoqauvin.

VARIATIONS

POT ROAST AND DAUBE OF BEEF.Fora4-to-5-poundbottomroundor topround of beef, serving 10 to 12. (Other possibilities: chuckshoulder,eyeofround,middlecutofbrisket.)Simmeringtime:3to4hours.Brownthebeefonallsides,eitherontopofthestoveorunderthebroiler,turningandbastingwithoil.Seasonwithsaltandpepperandsetinacoveredcasserolewiththesamebrownedsliced vegetables, wine, stock, and other ingredients as for theprecedingmasterrecipe.Whentender,proceedtomakethesauceinthesamemanner.COQAUVIN—CHICKENINREDWINE.For3poundsofcut-upfryingchicken,serving5or6people.Cookingtime:25to30minutes.Brownthechickenalloverinhotoilandtherenderedfatfromtheoptionallardons.Thenproceedexactlyas for themasterbeefrecipe,usingthesameingredientsandthegarnitureofonionsandmushrooms.CHICKENFRICASSEE.Thefricasseeisessentiallythesameasthecoqauvin,butitisdoneinwhitewineratherthanred,andthechickenisnot browned. For 3 pounds of chicken, serving 5 to 6. Cookingtime:25to30minutes.When3tablespoonsofbutterarefoamingin the frying pan, stir in 1 cup of sliced onions; when they aretender, add the chicken pieces. Turn frequently until stiffened

slightlybutnotbrowned.Seasonwithsaltandpepper,addapinchof tarragon, cover, and cook very slowly for 5 minutes more,without coloring.Then simmerwith2cupsofdrywhitewineor1½ cups of dry French vermouth and about 2 cups of chickenbroth. Complete the sauce as described in themaster recipe andgarnishwithwhite-braisedlittleonionsandsimmeredmushrooms.Youmaywishtoenrichthesaucewithalittlecream.

LambStew

(Notethatthisisalwayscalledastewbutitisactuallyabraise,becausethemeatisbrowned.)For4to5poundsbone-inlambshouldercutinto2-inch chunks, serving 6. Cooking time: about 1½ hours. Brown thelamband1½cupsslicedonionsasinthemasterrecipe.Seasonandturnintoacasserolewith2smashedclovesgarlic,½teaspoonrosemary,1½cups dry white wine or dry white French vermouth, 1 cup choppedtomatoes,andenoughchickenbrothbarelytocoveringredients.Simmerabout1½hoursandfinishthesauceassuggestedinthemasterrecipe.

LambShanks

1or2hind lamb shanksperperson,or1 foreshank sawed into2-inchlengths.Preparethemexactlyasfortheprecedinglambstew.

Ossobuco

Veal hind shanks sawed into 1½-to-2-inch lengths, 2 or 3 per person.Cookingtime:about1½hours.Seasonanddredgethemeatinflourjustbefore browning—because of the flour, the saucewill need no furtherthickening. Simmerwith chicken stock, sliced sautéed onions, and drywhite wine or dry French vermouth. Finish with a sprinkling ofgremolata—finelymincedzestofanorangeandalemon,amincedcloveofgarlic,andahandfulofchoppedparsley.

FISHANDSHELLFISH—POACHINGANDSTEAMING

FishFilletsPoachedinWhiteWine

Forsole,trout,andotherthinskinlessbonelessfillets,5to6ouncesperserving. Cooking time: about 10minutes. For 6 fillets. Score the skin

sides of the fish and season with salt and white pepper. Sprinkle 1tablespoonofmincedshallots in thebottomofabutteredbakingdish;layinthefillets,skinsidedownandlightlyoverlapping.Scatteranothertablespoon of shallots on top. Pour around them⅔ cup of dry whitewine or drywhite French vermouth, and⅓ cup of fish stock, chickenstock, or water. Cover with buttered wax paper and bring just to thesimmerontopofthestove,thensetinapreheated350°Foven.Thefishis done in 7 to 8minutes,when just lightly springy to the touch andopaque (milky white). Drain cooking juices into a saucepan and boildownrapidlyuntilalmostsyrupy.Forasimplesauce,whiskindropletsoflemonjuiceandmincedparsleyand,ifyouwish,atablespoonortwoofbutter.Spoonoverthefishandserveatonce.

SeaScallopsPoachedinWhiteWine

For1½poundswholescallops,serving6.Simmer½tablespoonmincedshallots for3minuteswith⅓cupeachofdrywhiteFrenchvermouthandwaterplus½teaspoonsaltandasmallimportedbayleaf.Thenaddthescallopsandsimmer1½to2minutes,justuntillightlyspringytothetouch.Removefromheatandletcoolintheliquidatleast10minutes,topickupitsflavor.Removescallops,discardbayleaf,andrapidlyboildownliquiduntilalmostsyrupy.

NOTE:Simmeringtimesforquarteredseascallopsandbayscallops,15to30seconds;forcalicos,bringjusttothesimmer.

SERVINGSUGGESTIONS

FINES HERBES. Stir fresh minced parsley and/or dill, tarragon orchivesintothereducedliquid,andbrieflyreheatscallops,foldingin,ifyouwish,afewtablespoonsofheavycream. PROVENÇAL—WITH TOMATOES. Stir 1½ cups peeled, seeded, juiced, andchoppedfreshtomatoesand1largecloveofmincedgarlicintothereduced liquid. Cover and simmer 5 minutes, then uncover andboil down rapidly to thicken. Season. Fold in the scallops and

reheat briefly. Fold in minced parsley or other green herbs andserve.

PoachedSalmonFillets

For8salmonfillets6 to8ounceseach.Bring2quartsofwater to theboil in a large skillet, adding 1 tablespoon salt and¼ cupwhite-winevinegar.Slideinthesalmon,bringbackalmosttothesimmer,andpoachjustbelowthesimmerfor8minutes—thefishisdonewhenjustspringytothetouch.Drain,removeskin,andservewithlemonwedges,meltedbutter,orhollandaisesauce.

WholeSteamedSalmon

A5-to-6-poundsalmonserves10to12.Cookingtime:about45minutes.Have the salmon eviscerated, gills removed, and fins trimmed. Brushoutsidewithoilandseasoncavitywithsaltandpepper.Laythefishonanoiledrackinafishpoacherorroasterandwraprackandsalmoninwashed cheesecloth. Strew around the fish 2 cups of thinly slicedsautéedonionsand1cupeachofsautéedslicedcarrotsandcelery,andamediumherbbouquetwithparsley,bay,andtarragon.Pourin4cupsofdrywhitewineor3cupsofdrywhiteFrenchvermouthplusfishorlightchicken stock to a depthof 1 inch.Bring to the simmeron topof thestoveand seal topof poacherwithheavy foil anda lid.Maintain at aslowsimmer,bastingrapidlyseveraltimeswithpanliquids.Thefishisdoneatathermometerreadingof150°F.Removefish,slideontoservingplatter, and keep warm. Drain cooking liquid out of poacher intosaucepan,pressingjuicesoutofvegetables.Boildowntoasyrupy1cup.Enrich, if you wish, with heavy cream and a swirling of butter andchoppedfreshparsley.

SteamedLobsters

Approximatecookingtimes:10minutesfor1-pounders;12to13for1¼-pounders; 14 to 15 for 1½-pounders; 18minutes for 2-pounders. Fit arack in a5-gallonpot and fillwith2 inchesof seawater, or tapwaterwith1½teaspoonssaltperquart.Coverandbringtotherapidboil,thenquicklydropin6livelobstersheadfirst.Coverthepotandweightdownthe lid tomakea firmseal.As soonas steamappears,begin timingas

indicated.A lobster is probablydonewhen the longantennaspull outeasily.Buttobesure,turnthelobsteroverandslitopenthechesttoseethetomalley—ifallblack,cookseveralminutesmore,until tomalley ispalegreen.Accompanywithmeltedbutterandlemonwedges.

EggCookery

“Itbehoovesustochooseeggscarefullyandtotreatthemright.”

Eggs appear throughout cookery not only as themselves—in theiromelet,scrambled,poached,stuffed,andsoft-boiledguises—butaspuffproducers in cakes and soufflés, as thickeners for sauces and custards,and,ofcourse,asthestarsandstartersforthosetwonobleandaddictivecreations,hollandaiseandmayonnaise.

BUYINGANDSTORINGEGGS.Itbehoovesustochooseeggscarefullyandtotreatthem right. Because at room temperature they make a warm andcomfortablehomeforevilbacteria,alwaysbuyrefrigeratedeggs,neverbuycrackedordirtyeggs,alwaysbringyoureggshomeinarefrigeratedcontainer,andkeepeggschilleduntilthemomentyouaretousethem.

MASTERRECIPE

TheFrenchOmelet

Theperfectomeletisagentlyovalshapeofcoagulatedeggenclosingatendercustardofeggs.Itcanbeaplainbreakfastomeletflavoredonlywithsalt,pepper,andbutter,oritcanbeaquickmaincourseluncheonomelet filled or garnished with chicken livers, mushrooms, spinach,truffles,smokedsalmon,orwhateverthecookwishes—anattractiveuseforniceleftovers,bytheway.Andyoucanmakeanomeletinanumberofways,suchasthescrambledtechnique,thetilt-and-foldmethod,andsoforth.Ihavealwayspreferredthe2-to-3-eggomeletmadebymyoldFrenchchefteacher’sshake-and-jerksystem,asfollows.If this isyour firstattempt,go through themovementsof the jerk—

andnote it isnota toss, it isa straight jerk towardyou—andpracticetheunmoldingtechnique.Servethewholefamilyforbreakfast,soyou’llbemaking4or5omeletsormoreandwillgetthefeel.It’saveryfast

lesson,sinceanomelettakesonlyabout20secondstomake.

Fora2-to-3-eggomelet,serving1person

2jumboorextra-largeeggs,or3largeormediumeggs

Bigpinchofsalt

Severalgrindsofpepper

1tspcoldwater,optional,foramoreperfectblendingofyolksandwhites

1Tbsunsaltedbutter

Haveawarmplateatyour side,aswellasbutter,a sprigor twoofparsley, and a rubber spatula. Break the eggs into amixing bowl andwhisk just enough to blend them with the salt, pepper, and optionalwater.Settheomeletpan(seeboxbelow)overhighestheat,addthebutter,andtiltpaninalldirectionstofilmbottomandsides.Whenthebutterfoamhasalmostsubsidedbutjustbeforethebutterbrowns,pourintheeggs. Shake the pan briefly by its handle to spread the eggs over thebottomofthepan.Holdstillforseveralsecondswhiletheeggscoagulateonthebottom.Thenstartjerkingthepantowardyou,throwingtheeggmassagainstthefaredge.Keepjerkingroughly,graduallyliftingupbythehandleandtiltingthefaredgeofthepanovertheheatastheomeletbeginstorolloveronitself.Pushanystrayeggbackintothemasswiththerubberspatula,thenbangonthehandleclosetothepanwithyourfist,andtheomeletwillstartcurlingatitsfaredge.To unmold, rapidly turn the pan handle to your right and grab itsundersidewithyourrighthand,palmupunderthehandleandthumbontop.Holdingtheplateinyourlefthand,tiltpanandplatetowardeachother, turning the pan down over the plate, and the omelet falls intoplace.Pushthesidesneatlyinplacewiththespatulaifnecessary.Spearalumpofbutterwithafork,rapidlybrushalittleofitoverthetop,decoratewithasprigofparsley,andserve.

THE OMELET PAN. To make omelets you must have a nonstick pan, andfortunately these are easily available. I highly recommend theprofessional nonstick aluminum shapewith a long handle and slopingsides, 10 inches in top diameter and 7½ at the bottom. I use theWeareveraluminum,availableinmanyhardwarestores.

VARIATIONS

FINES HERBES. Mince chives and parsley, or tarragon, or chervil,whisk ½ tablespoon into the eggs as you make the omelet, andsprinkleabitontopforserving.FILLEDOMELETS.Youcaneithercutasplitlengthwiseinthefinishedomeletwithaknifeandspreadonaheapingspoonfuloffilling,oryou can spoon the filling onto the eggs in the pan, just as theycoagulate enough toholdandbeforeyou start the final rolling—thistakesalittlespecialmaneuveringbutyouwillworkoutyourownsystem.

SomeSuggestedFillingsandGarnishes

1-Creamed cooked chopped spinach, or cooked chopped broccoli,sautéedinbutter

2-Quarteredorslicedmushrooms,chickenlivers,orscallopssautéedinbutterwithshallotsandseasonings(cookasforthescallops)

3-Creamedlobster,shrimp,orcrab

4-Pipérade—green and red peppers sautéed with onions, garlic, andherbs

5-Potatoes—sautéeddicedpotatoes,towhichyoucouldaddbaconandonions

6-Tomato—freshtomatofondue

CREAMEDLOBSTER,CRAB,ORSHRIMP.Forabout1cup,enoughtofillorgarnish4to6 omelets. Briefly sauté 1 tablespoon finely minced shallots in 2tablespoons butter until softened, then fold in 1 cup cooked shellfishmeatcutinto¼-inchpieces.Whenwellwarmedthrough,seasonlightlywith saltandpepper,andboil foraminuteor twowith2 tablespoonsdrywhiteFrenchvermouth,thenbrieflywith½cupheavycream,untilnicelythickened.Correctseasoning,and,ifyouwish,foldinasprinklingofmincedfreshparsley.

ScrambledEggs

Wesooftenthinkofscrambledeggsservedonlywithbaconorsausageforaneverydaybreakfast,buttheymakeafinefancybreakfastorevenluncheon dish with baked tomatoes, sautéed potatoes, asparagus tips,andallmannerofgarnishes.Scrambledeggsarealsogoodcold,asyouwill see later on, but I don’t think these dowellwhenmixedupwithotherthings.Ilikethemtostandaloneandbegarnishedontheside.For8 eggs, serving4people. Scrambled eggs shouldbe soft, broken

curds,andthemoregentlyandslowlyyoucookthem,themoretenderanddelicioustheywillbe.Choosethesame10-inchheavynonstickpanusedfortheprecedingomelets.Havewarmbutnothotplatesathand.Whisktheeggsinamixingbowljusttoblendwhitesandyolks,adding¼teaspoon salt (or to taste)and severalgrindsofpepper.Set thepanovermoderate heatwith 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, andwhen it ismelted,swirlthepantocoverbottomandsides.Pour all but 2 tablespoons of the eggs into the pan, turn heat to

moderately low,andstart slowlyscraping theeggs fromthebottomofthepanastheyverygraduallycoagulate intosoftcurds.Thiswill takeseveralminutes.Whentheyarethickenedasyouwish,removepanfromheatand,tostopthecookingandcreamtheeggs,foldintheremainderof the beaten egg. Taste, and correct seasoning. If youwish, fold in atablespoonorsoofsoftunsaltedbutterorofheavycream.Serveatonce.

ADDITIONSANDVARIATIONS

SUGGESTEDACCOMPANIMENTS(otherthancrispbacon,ham,sausages,andso

forth)

1-Butteredtoastpoints—neat,smalltrianglesofwhitetoast

2-TomatoesProvençal—tomatohalvesbakedwithseasonedbreadcrumbs

3-Cookedasparagustipswarmedinbutter

4-Anyofthegarnishessuggestedfortheomelets COLD SCRAMBLED EGGS IN A TOMATO SHELL. Fold pipérade into the just-scrambled eggs. Seasonwell,mound into hollowed-out halves offreshripetomatoes,andchill. COLD SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH DILL. Season the just-scrambled eggs withchoppedfreshdill,chill,andservewithsmokedsalmon.

PoachedEggs

Theversatilepoachedegg!Serveithotinanartichokecup,orcrownedwithbéarnaiseatopatenderloinsteak,orglitteringinaspic,orgracingacurly endive salad, or buried in a soufflé, or dressed as aBenedict, orsimplysittingonawarm,crisp,butterypieceoftoastforbreakfast.It’sagracefuloval,whosewhiteissoftlysetandwhoseyolkisthicklyliquid.Ifwecouldhavethemfreshfromthehentheywouldliterallypoachbythemselves, sincea really fresheggholds its shapewhendropped intosimmering water. But most of us have to take certain steps to assuresuccess,usingeithervinegaredwaterorovalmetalegg-poachers(whichyoucanbuyinsomecookwareshops).ToHelptheEggKeepItsShape.Usingapushpin,pierceahole¼inchdeepinthelargeendoftheeggtoreleasetheairpocket(otherwisetheeggwillcrack).Tohelptheeggkeepitsshape, lowernotmorethan4eggs at a time into a pan of rapidly boilingwater. Boil for exactly 10seconds,thenremovewithaslottedspoon.VinegaredWater.Topoachupto6eggs,bring1½quartsofwaterand¼cupwhitevinegar(whichhelpsthewhitetocoagulate)tothesimmerina saucepan8 inches indiameterand3 inchesdeep.Haveakitchentimer and slotted spoon at hand. One by one, starting near the pan

handle andmoving clockwise, hold the egg as close to the surface aspossible, and break it into the water. Rapidly continue with the rest.Maintain the water at the simmer and poach exactly 4 minutes—thewhiteshouldbesoftlysetandtheyolkliquid.Clockwisefromthehandleofthepan,removetheeggsonebyonewiththeperforatedspoon,anddropintoabasinofcoldwatertowashoffthevinegar.Poaching in thePerforatedOvalMetalContainer.Set thepoachers ina

panofsimmeringwatertocover,dropinthepierced,10-second-boiledeggs,andpoachatthesimmerforexactly4minutes,asdescribedabove.Removethepoachersanddislodgetheeggscarefullywithasoupspoon.EggsMayBePoachedaDayorTwoinAdvance.Submergeinfreshcold

waterandrefrigerateuncovered.To Serve Cold. Store as above, or chill for 10minutes in ice water.

Removeonebyonewithaslottedspoon,androlloveracleantoweltoblotoffwater.ToServeHot.Lowerchilledeggsintoapanoflightlysaltedsimmering

waterandletwarmupfor1minute,thenremove.

VARIATIONS

EGGS BENEDICT. Toast and butter English-muffin halves or crustlesscircles of brioche bread (which I prefer, since I find themuffinstough and hard to cut). Top each toast with a round of sautéedham,awarmpoachedegg,andhollandaisesauce.Then,ifyouarefeelingluxurious,slideonawarm,butterysliceofblacktruffle. SOUFFLÉ VENDÔME. Arrange 4 toasted and buttered French-breadroundsina6-cupbakingdish,andtopwith4coldpoachedeggs.Cover with the cheese soufflé, and bake as directed. This dishalwaysamazesyourguests,andtheeggsemergeperfectlydone.SALADOFCURLYENDIVEWITHBACONANDPOACHEDEGGS.

ShirredEggs

Here,forindividualservings,theeggoreggsarebrokenintoashallowdishandstartedontopofthestovebutfinishedunderthebroiler.Thewhiteissoftlysetbuttheyolkisfilmedoverwithatranslucentfilm.A

deliciouslybutteryeggdish,buthardlyadietone!Hereishowtoproceed.Provideyourselfwithasufficientnumberof

shallowflameproofbakingdishesabout4 inchesacross, slide theovenrack onto the upper level, preheat the broiler, and melt about 2tablespoons butter per serving. For each serving, set one of the dishesovermoderatelylowheatandpourin1tablespoonmeltedbutter.Whenbubbling,breakin1or2eggsandcookforabout30seconds,justtosetathinlayerofwhiteinthebottomofthedish.Removefromheat,andbaste top of eggswith a teaspoonofmeltedbutter. Place on a bakingsheet, and do the same with your other baking dishes. Just beforeserving,set1inchunderthebroilerandcookforabout1minute,slidingdishes in and out every few seconds and basting with a little morebutter.When the whites are set and the yolks are filmed, season andserveimmediately.

ADDITIONSANDVARIATIONS

SHIRRED EGGSWITH CREAM.After starting theeggson topof the stove,pour 2 tablespoons of heavy creamover them and set under thebroilertofinish.Nobastingisnecessary. SHIRRED EGGS GRATINÉEDWITH CHEESE.Proceedaswith thecream,above,toppingitwithateaspoonofgratedSwissorParmesancheese.SHIRREDEGGSAUBEURRENOIR—WITHBLACKBUTTERSAUCE.Usejustateaspoonofbutter to baste the eggs under the broiler, andwhendone, dressthem with black-butter sauce (see box below), adding thesuggestedchoppedparsleyandcapersaswell.GARNITURES.Justbeforeserving,youcouldsurroundtheeggswithsautéedmushrooms,kidneys,chickenlivers,tomatosauce,sautéedgreenandredpeppers,orwhatever.However,Ithinkthefollowingeggsinramekinstakebettertosuchadditions.

BLACKBUTTERSAUCE—BEURRENOIR.Awonderfulsauceforfishandeggdishes.Forabout½cup,cut1stickofbutterinto¼-inchslicesandmeltina6-inchfryingpan.Whenbubbling, increaseheat tohigh.Swirl thepanby its

handleasthebubblessubsideandthebutterrapidlybeginstobrown.Inafewseconds,assoonasitisanicewalnutbrown(notblack!),pouritoverthefood.NOTE:Beforesaucingthefood,youmaywishtosprinkleonateaspoonorsoofchoppedfreshparsley,whichwillsizzleasthehotsaucegoesoverit, thenswirla tablespoonorsoofcapers in thepan,anddivide themoverthesaucedfood.

EggsBakedinRamekins

Theseareamoreleisurelyeggdishthantheprecedingshirredeggs,withtheirrapidinsandoutsfromunderthebroiler.Heretheeggsarebrokenintolittlebutteredcustardcups,andsetinapanofhotwatertobakeintheoven for7 to10minutes.They canbe simple,with just abaseofcream,oryoucanputafillinginthebottomofthecup—agreatwaytouse leftover cooked spinach, chopped mushrooms, cooked onions, orwhateverenticingitemyouhaveonhand.Slide the rack onto the lower-middle level, and preheat the oven to375°F.Foreachserving,pour1tablespoonheavycreamintoabuttered½-cupramekinandplaceinapancontaining½inchofsimmeringwaterovermoderateheat.Whenthecreamishot,breakin1or2eggs;pouroveranothertablespoonofcream;andtopwithadotofbutter.Bakefor7to10minutes,untilsoftlyset—theyshouldstilltrembleslightly,sincetheywillsetalittlemoreintheirramekinsafterbeingremovedfromtheoven.Removefromtheoven;seasonwithsaltandpepper,andserve.

ADDITIONSANDVARIATIONS

AUX FINES HERBES—WITH MINCED GREEN HERBS. Add a teaspoon or so to thecream for each serving—one or a mixture of parsley, chives,tarragon,chervil. WITH VARIOUS SAUCES. Instead of cream, use a brown sauce withmushrooms, a cheese sauce, a tomato sauce, a curry sauce, anonion sauce, etc. A good occasion for using up your preciousleftovers.

BOTTOMFILLERS.Spreadinthebottomofeachramekinatablespoonorsoofsuchattractiveitemsascookedandnicelyflavoreddicedasparagus, broccoli, spinach, artichoke bottoms, diced ham,mushrooms, chicken livers, or shellfish. A slice of black trufflewouldbeahappy surprise, aswouldagenerous spoonfulof foiegras.

Hard-BoiledEggs

Whenyouarestuffinghard-boiledeggsforthefamily,itisjusttoobadiftheyrefusetopeelneatly,butwhenyouaredoingthemforaparty,it’sadisaster.The following rather cumbersome system,developedby theStateofGeorgiaEggBoard,prettywellsolvestheproblem.For12eggs(Idon’trecommendmoreatonetime).Pierceapinhole¼inch deep into the large end of each egg—allowing the air bubble toescape.Placetheeggsinadeepsaucepanandcoverwith3½quartsofcoldwater. Bring just to the rolling boil, remove fromheat, cover thepan,andletsitforexactly17minutes.Transfertheeggstoabowloficeandwaterandletchillfor2minutes—toshrinktheeggbodyfromtheshell.Meanwhile,reheatcookingwatertotheboil.Lower6chilledeggsat a time into the boiling water and let boil exactly 10 seconds—toexpandtheshellfromtheeggbody.Letchillfor20minutesormore—well-chilledeggsareeasiertopeel.Topeel,crackeachegggentlyalloveronyourworksurface,thenpeelunderasmallstreamofcoldwater,startingat the largeend.Theeggswillkeepperfectlyforseveraldayswhensubmergedincoldwaterandleftuncoveredintherefrigerator.

VARIATIONS

A SIMPLE BASE FOR COLD STUFFED EGGS. For 2 dozen egg halves. Slice 12peeled chilled eggs inhalf lengthwise, and sieve theyolks into abowl. Blend in 2 tablespoons each of mayonnaise and softenedunsalted butter, and season to tastewith salt and freshly groundwhite pepper. Pipe the stuffing into the egg-whitehalvesusing apastrybagfittedwithastartip.Decorate,ifyouwish,withparsleysprigsandbitsofredpimiento.Orfinelyminceandaddtothebase

stuffinganyofthefollowing:

1-Fresh green herbs such as dill, basil, tarragon, parsley, chives,chervil

2-Cookedasparagustips

3-Mincedonionssautéedinbutterwithapinchofcurrypowder

4-Sautéedmushroomduxelles

5-Lobster,crab,orshrimpsautéedinbutterandseasonings

6-Smokedsalmon

7-Pickles—sweetrelishordills

8-Black-olivetapénade(seeboxbelow)

TAPÉNADE. 1 cup pitted Mediterranean-style black olives, 3tablespoonscapers,6oil-packedanchovyfillets,and1largecloveofpuréedgarlicallgroundtoapasteinafoodprocessor.

BAKEDSTUFFEDEGGS.AveryFrenchluncheonorsupperdish.Sievetheyolks and blend in heavy cream and a stuffing, such as mincedmushrooms.StuffedEggsauGratin,Chimay.For4people.Sievetheyolksofa

dozen hard-boiled eggs and blend in¼ cup or so each of heavycreamandmushroomduxelles.Bake them,6halvesata time, inindividual dishes, in awell-seasoned cheese sauce, exactly as forthecaulifloweraugratin.

SOUFFLÉSThesoufflé is theeggat itsmostmagnificent.Howglorious it iswhenborne to the table, its head rising dramatically out of its dish, and

swayingvoluptuouslyasitissetdown.Invitespecialgueststolunchandyou couldn’t serve them amore appropriate and attractive lightmealthancheesesouffléandagreensalad,orplanonachocolatesouffléasaloving treat for your most favorite dinner guests. Fortunately, areasonably well-assembled soufflé is an automatic happening. It issimply a flavored sauce base into which you fold stiffly beaten eggwhites, anddependsalmost entirelyonhowyoubeatyour eggwhitesandhowyoufoldthemin—andthesetwospecificsarefullyexplainedinthecakesection.

MASTERRECIPE

Savory Cheese Soufflé For a 4-to-6-cup soufflé mold or straight-sidedbakingdish8inchesacross,serving4

Youcanbake this ina4-cupmoldwithapapercollar, intowhich thesouffléwillpuff2 to3 inchesover therimandhold itspuffwhenthecollar is removed. Or bake it in a 6-cupmold, whichwill give you amorestablesoufflébutlesspuff.

1to1½Tbssoftbutterforthesoufflédishandcollar

2TbsfinelygratedParmesancheeseforthesoufflédish

2½Tbsbutterforthesoufflé

3Tbsflour

1cuphotmilk

¼tsppaprika

Aspeckofgratednutmeg

½tspsalt

2or3grindsofwhitepepper

4eggyolks

5eggwhites

1cup(3½ounces)coarselygratedSwisscheese

Prepare the soufflé dish. (See box below.) Slide rack onto lower-thirdlevel,andpreheatovento400°F.The Sauce Base. Cook the 2½ tablespoons butter and 3 tablespoons

flour together in a 3-quart saucepan until they foam and froth for 2minutes.Removefromheatandbeat inthehotmilk,thensimmerandstirslowlyforaminuteortwotothicken.Removefromheatandwhiskseasoningsintosauce,then,onebyone,theeggyolks.Whiptheeggwhitestostiff, shiningpeaks.Whiskaquarterof them

intothesaucetolightenit,thendelicatelyfoldintherestofthewhites,alternatingwithsprinklingsofthegratedSwisscheese.Turnthesoufflémixtureintothedishandsetintheoven.Reduceheat

to 375°F and bake 25 to 30 minutes, until soufflé has puffed severalinchesintothecollar,oraninchortwoabovetherim,andhasbrownednicelyontop.Whenisitreallydone?Removethecollarandserveatonce.ToServeaSoufflé.Soastodeflateitaslittleaspossible,holdaserving

spoonandforkuprightandbacktoback.Plungethemintothecenterofthesouffléandtearitapart.

TO PREPARE THE SOUFFLÉ DISH. Choose a straight-sided baking dish or a“charlotte”mold.Smearalightcoatingofsoftbutterovertheinsidesofthedish,coveringbottomandsides.Dependingonthesoufflé,rollfinelygrated Parmesan cheese, or bread crumbs, or granulated sugar in thedishtocoverinnersurfacecompletely,andknockoutexcess.TheCollar.Ifyouareusingacollar,cutalengthofparchmentpaper

or aluminum foil long enough towrap around the dishwith a 2-inchoverlap, fold in half lengthwise, and butter one side.Wrap the collararoundthedish,butteredsidein;itshouldrise3inchesabovetherim.Secureinplacewith2straightpins,insertedheadsupforquickremoval.

VARIATIONS

VEGETABLESOUFFLÉS.Aftermakingthesaucebase,foldin¼to⅓cup

ofwell-seasoned cooked chopped spinach, asparagus, broccoli, ormushrooms.Complete the soufflé as directed, but fold in only⅓cupofthegratedSwisscheese. SHELLFISH SOUFFLÉS. Make a cup or so of creamed lobster, crab orshrimpandspreadinthebottomofthebutteredsoufflédish.Coverwiththesoufflémixturebutfoldinonly⅓cupofthegratedSwisscheese.Youmightservethefreshtomatofonduealongwithit. SALMON AND OTHER FISH IN SOUFFLÉS. The soufflé is a dressy solution forleftover fish.Stiracuporsoofcookedflaked fish into thesaucebase,andgiveextraflavorbyaddingseveraltablespoonsofmincedshallotssautéedinbutterandatablespoonortwoofmincedfreshdill. Again, cut down the grated Swiss cheese to ⅓ cup.Hollandaisesaucewouldgowellhere.

WHENISTHESOUFFLÉDONE?Ifithasacollar,rapidlyreleaseitjustabittocheck—ifthepuffsags,refastenthecollarandbakeafewminutesmore.Whenaskewerisplungeddownintothesideofthepuffandcomes out with a few particles clinging, the soufflé will bedeliciouslycreamyinsidebutwillnotholduplong.If theskewercomesoutclean,itwillholdupalittlelonger.

SOUFFLÉ ON A PLATTER. Rather than in a deep dish, youmay bake asouffléonaplatterorinagratindish.For4people,buttera12-to-14-inch oval ovenproof platter and arrange on it four ½-cupmounds of a deliciously flavored something, like the creamedshellfish.Heapaquarterofthefinishedsoufflémixtureovereach,top with grated Swiss cheese, and bake 15 minutes or so in apreheated425°Foven,untilpuffedandbrown.SOUFFLÉROULADE—THEROLLEDSOUFFLÉ.Foran11-by-17-inchjelly-rollpan,serving 6 to 8 people. Slide rack onto upper-third level of oven,andpreheat to425°F.Butter thepanand linewithparchmentorwaxpaper,leavinga2-inchoverhangateachend.Butterthepaperand flour it, knocking out excess. Follow the master recipe, but

increase proportions to the following: 5 tablespoons butter, 6tablespoons flour, 1½cupsmilk, 6 yolks, 7whites, and1 cupofgrated Swiss cheese. Spread the soufflé mixture in the pan andbakefor12minutesorso,untiljustwellset—don’tovercook,oritwill crack when rolled. Sprinkle bread crumbs over the top andinvert the soufflé onto another paper-covered baking sheet.Carefullypeeloffthepaperlining.Spreadoverthesoufflé1¼cupsorsoofanywarm,well-seasonedfilling,suchaspipérade,sautéedmushroomsanddicedham,thecreamedshellfish,orother.Rollupthe soufflé and top decoratively, if you wish, with more filling,and/orasaucesuchasthetomatofondue,orhollandaise.

DESSERTSOUFFLÉSSoufflé for dessert—that always means a party. The same generalprinciples of the beating and folding in of egg whites apply to sweetsoufflés as tomain-course soufflés,but sincedessert soufflés shouldbelightandairy, therearedifferences in thesaucebase.Youcoulduseawhitesauceorapastrycream,butIpreferthebouillie,outlinedbelow,andyou’llnotethattheeggwhitesaregivenmorebodybybeingbeatenwithsugar.

MASTERRECIPE

VanillaSouffléFora6-cupsoufflédish,serving4people

3Tbsflour

¼cupmilk

⅓cupplus2Tbsgranulatedsugar

4eggyolks

2Tbsbutter,softened(optional)

5eggwhites

2Tbspurevanillaextract

Confectioners’sugarinafinesieve

Prepare thesoufflédishandaffix thepaper collar asdirected in thebox.Slidetherackontothelower-thirdleveloftheoven,andpreheatto400°F.Whisktheflourandhalfthemilkinasaucepan.Whenwellblended,whiskintheremainingmilkandthe⅓cupsugar.Thenbringtotheboilandboilslowly,whisking,for30seconds.Thisisnowabouillie.Removefromheat;letcoolforamoment,then,onebyone,beatintheyolksandtheoptionalbutter.Whiptheeggwhitestosoftpeaks,sprinkleinthe2tablespoonssugar,andbeat to stiff, shiningpeaks.Whisk the vanilla into the sauce base,then whisk in a quarter of the whites to lighten it. Delicately fold inremainingwhitesandturnthemixtureintotheprepareddish.Set in theoven,reduceheat to375°F,andbakeuntil thesouffléhasbeguntopuffandbrown—about20minutes.Rapidlyslideoutrack,anddust the top of the soufflé with confectioners’ sugar. Continue bakinguntilithaspuffedhighintothecollar.Whenisitdone?Removecollarandserveatonce.

VARIATIONS

ORANGE SOUFFLÉ GRAND MARNIER. Follow the master recipe above, butpuréethezest(coloredpartofpeel)ofalargeorangewiththe⅓cupsugarinablenderorfoodprocessor,anduseinthesaucebase.Stironly2teaspoonsvanilla intothebase,butadd3tablespoonsorangeliqueur.CHOCOLATESOUFFLÉ.Followtheprecedingmasterrecipe,butpreparea2-quart dish to serve 8. Preheat oven to 425°F. Melt 7 ouncessemisweetchocolatewith⅓cupstrongcoffee.Makesaucebaseasdirectedinmasterrecipe,using⅓cupflourand2cupsmilk;whiskat the slow boil for 2 minutes. Off heat, beat in 3 tablespoonsoptionalbutter,1tablespoonvanillaextract,abigpinchofsalt,4egg yolks, and the melted chocolate. Whip 6 egg whites to softpeaks, add ½ cup sugar and whip to shiny peaks. Combine byladling chocolate base down sides of egg-white bowl and foldingrapidlytocombine.Turnmixtureintodish,setintooven,reduceto

375°F, and bake for 40 minutes, or until puff starts. Dust withconfectioners’ sugar and bake until done. Serve with lightlywhippedcrèmeChantilly.

SAVORYCUSTARDSWe often think of custards only as desserts—particularly everybody’sfavorite,caramelcustard(I’d like tobespooninguponeof thoserightnow!).Butcustardscanalsobemain-courseluncheonorsupperdishes,orcanaccompanyroasts,broils,andsteaks.Wheneveryouarethinkingof a soufflé on themenu, think also of its alternative, the custard—ortimbale,infancy-foodlanguage.It’seasiertomake,andyouneedhavenoqualms about theperfectionof your eggwhites or about collapses.The custard holds, it waits, it can be rewarmed, it’s a smooth andsensuouspleasuretoeat.

MASTERRECIPE

IndividualBroccoliTimbales—MoldedCustardsFor6to8servingsin5-to-6-ounce(⅔-to-¾-cup)molds

1½to2Tbssoftenedbutter(forthemolds)

4“large”eggs

2cupscooked,chopped,well-seasonedbroccoliflorets

2Tbsgratedonion

½cupfreshwhitebreadcrumbs

2to3Tbsmincedfreshparsley

½cup(2ounces)lightlypresseddowngratedSwiss,cheddar,and/ormozzarellacheese

½cupcreamormilk

½tspsalt

Severalgrindsofwhitepepper

DropsofTabasco,optional

Smear softened butter inside the molds, slide rack onto lower-thirdlevelofoven,andpreheatto350°F.Provideyourselfwitharoastingpantoholdthemolds,andhaveakettleofboilingwaterready.Whisktheeggsinamixingbowltoblendyolksandwhites,thenfoldinall theremaining ingredients.Tastecarefully,andcorrectseasoning.Ladlethemixtureintothemolds,fillingthembyabouttwo-thirds.Arrange themolds in the roasting pan and set in the oven. Pull therackout,andpourinenoughboilingwatertocomehalfwayupthesidesof themolds. Very gently push the rack in, and bake 5minutes, thenlowerheatto325°Fandbakeabout25minutesmore.Adjustovenheatsothatwaterinpanisneverboiling,justalmostbubbling.WhenAreTheyDone?Whena skewerplunged into thecenter comesoutclean.Carefully slide the roasting pan out of the oven and let the moldssettlefor10minutes—oralittlelonger,ifneedbe.Tounmold, onebyone run a sharp, thin knife around the insideofeachmoldandreverseit,droppingthecustardontoawarmplate.Serving Suggestions. Top with a sprinkling of toasted and butteredbread crumbs, or a tomato sauce, or a béchamel sauce enriched withchoppedfreshherbs.

VARIATIONS

A LARGE TIMBALE. Butter a 4-to-5-cup soufflé mold or high-sidedbaking dish and fill with the custard. Set in a roasting pan andpour in boiling water to come halfway up its sides. Bake asdirectedabove. FRESH CORN TIMBALE—CORN PUDDING. Follow the master recipe, butsubstitute2cupsof freshcornscrapedoff thecob(8to10ears),and1tablespoonofchoppedfreshparsley. OTHER VARIATIONS. Cooked chopped spinach, asparagus tips,mushrooms, green and red peppers, shellfish, ham—any of theseandmorethatyouwillthinkofcanbesubstitutedforthebroccoliinthecustard.It’saversatileformula.

MOLDEDDESSERTCUSTARDS

MASTERRECIPE

CaramelCustardFora2-quartstraight-sidedbakingdish,serving8to10

1cupsugarand⅓cupwater,forthecaramel

6“large”eggs

5eggyolks

¾cupsugar

1quarthotmilk

1Tbspurevanillaextract

Pinchofsalt

Slide rack onto lower-middle level, and preheat the oven to 350°F.Cookthesugarandwatertothecaramelstage,andpourhalfofitintothebakingdish,swirlingitrapidlyaroundtocoatbottomandsides.Add4 to 5 tablespoonswater to the remaining caramel in the pan and letsimmerslowlytomeltthecaramel,thusturningitintoasauceforlater.Stirwithawhisk(butdonotbeatandcausebubbles)theeggs,yolks,and sugar in a bowl to blend them. Then, a little at a time at first todissolvethesugar,stirinthehotmilk,thenthevanillaandsalt.Strainthrough a fine-meshed sieve into the caramelized dish. Set dish in ahigh-sided roasting pan on the oven rack, and pour in enough boilingwatertocomehalfwayuptheoutsideofthedish.Bakeforaboutanhour,checkingafter15minutestobesurewaterinroasting pan is maintained precisely at almost the simmer—littlebubbles.Ifthewateristoohotthecustardwillbegrainy,butifnothotenoughitwilltakehourstocook.WhenIsItDone?Whenthecenterstilltremblesslightly,butaskewerplungedin1inchfromtheedgecomesoutclean.Remove dish from roasting pan and let custard settle at least 30minutes. The custard may be served warm, at room temperature, orchilled—if to be chilled, refrigerate, and cover when cold. (It can be

refrigeratedfor2days.)ToUnmold.Runathin-bladedknifebetweencustardandedgeofdish.

Turnaservingplateupsidedownoverthedishandreversethetwo—thecustardwillslowlyslipout.Pourthereservedcaramelsaucearoundthecustard.

VARIATIONS

INDIVIDUAL CARAMEL CUSTARDS. The preceding proportions will fill adozen⅔-cupPyrex bowls 3½ inches across. Line the bowlswithcaramelasdescribed, fillwiththecustardmixture,andbakeinawaterbathat350°Ffor20to25minutes,untilsetattheedgesbutwithaslighttrembleatthecenter.Unmoldforserving. INDIVIDUAL MACAROON CUSTARDS. Caramelize individual bowls, asdescribedabove,andwhenhardened,smearwithbutter.Sprinklepulverizedmacaroonsinthemtocoverbottomandsides.Fillwiththecustardmixture.Bake,andunmoldasdescribed.

CUSTARDDESSERTSAUCESANDFILLINGSCustardsaucesarecertainlyessentialtoanycook’srepertoire,themostimportantandusefulbeingtheclassiccrèmeanglaise,whichisthebasisfor many desserts, ice creams, puddings, and other sauces. As withhollandaise,youhavetodealwiththeeggyolkanditsvagaries,butjustremember that you are in control, and it is only the heat source thatneedsyourfullattention.

MASTERRECIPE

CrèmeAnglaise—ClassicCustardSauceForabout2cups

6eggyolks

½cupsugar

1½cupshotmilk

3Tbsbutter,optional

1Tbspurevanillaextract

2Tbsdarkrum,cognac,orotherliqueur,optional

Whisk theeggyolks ina2-quart stainless-steel saucepan,adding thesugarbyspoonfuls.Continuewhiskingfor2to3minutes,untiltheyolksarethickandpaleyellowand“formtheribbon”.Bydribblesatfirst,stirinthehotmilk.Set over moderate heat, stirring slowly and continuously with a

wooden spoon, reaching all over the bottomof the pan as the custardgradually heats and thickens—do not let it come near the boil. If itseems to be getting too hot, lift pan up, then continue as the saucethickens.Youarealmosttherewhensurfacebubblesbegintodisappearandyoumayseeawhiffofsteamarise.WhenIsItDone?Itcoatsthespooninalight,creamylayer.Beatintheoptionalbutter,thevanilla,andtheoptionalspirits.Serve

warm,atroomtemperature,orchilled.Storage.Remember that this is anegg-yolk sauce, and shouldnot sit

aroundatroomtemperatureformorethan½hour.Tostorefor2to3days,refrigerate,andcoverwhencold.

FloatingIsland

A dramatic use for crème anglaise— huge caramel-streaked bakedmeringuechunksfloatingonaseaofcustardsauce.For6to8servings,buttera4-quartstraight-sidedbakingdishanddustwithconfectioners’sugar.Setrackinlower-middlelevelofovenandpreheatto250°F.Beat ⅔ cup egg whites (about 12) into soft peaks, and continue

beating to stiff, shining peaks while adding 1½ cups sugar by bigspoonfuls. Turn this meringue into the baking dish. Bake 30 to 40minutes,untilthemeringuehasrisen3to4inchesandaskewerplungeddownintothecentercomesoutclean.Removefromovenandletcool—it will sink down. (May be baked several days in advance; may befrozen.)To serve,pour2cupsofcrèmeanglaise (seepreceding recipe) intoa

roundservingdish.Unmoldthemeringueontoabakingsheet,cutinto6to8bigchunks,andarrangeoverthesauce.Boil1cupofsugarand⅓cupwater to thecaramelstage,andwhencooled slightly intoaheavy

syrup,weavedecorativestrandsofcarameloverthemeringue,usingthetinesofafork.

PastryCream—CrèmePâtissière

Custard filling for pies, tarts, cakes, and miscellaneous desserts. Forabout 2½ cups. Whisk 6 egg yolks in a stainless-steel saucepan,graduallyadding½cup sugarandapinchof salt.Continueuntil eggsarethickandpaleyellow,and“formtheribbon”.Siftonandwhiskin½cupflourorcornstarch.Bydribblesatfirst,whiskin2cupshotmilkorhalf-and-half.Whiskingslowly,bringtotheboil,thenwhiskvigorouslyforafewsecondstosmoothoutanylumps.Simmerslowly,stirringwithawoodenspoon,for2minutes,tocooktheflourorstarch.Removefromheatandblendin1tablespoonpurevanillaextractand,ifyouwish,2tablespoons each unsalted butter and rum or kirsch. Strain through afine-meshed sieve into a bowl. Let cool, stirring up occasionally topreventlumps.ToStore. Press a sheet of plasticwrap onto the surface to prevent a

skinfromforming;cover,andrefrigeratefor2to3daysorfreeze.

VARIATIONSANDADDITIONS

TO LIGHTEN THE SAUCE, fold in½ cup of whipped cream. Or give itvolumeandstayingpowerbycombining itwith2cupsof Italianmeringue; just fold them together and you have created crèmeChiboust,whichyoucanthenuseasacakefillingorfrosting,orasthecustardbaseforfruittarts.

Sabayon

Awine-custardsauceforfruitdesserts.Whisk1egg,2eggyolks,½cupsugar,apinchof salt,⅓cupMarsala, sherry, rum,orbourbon,and⅓cupdrywhiteFrenchvermouthinastainless-steelsaucepan.Whenwellblended, whisk rather slowly over moderately low heat for 4 to 5minutes,untilsaucehasthickenedandisfoamy,andquitewarmtoyourfinger—butdonotletitcometothesimmer.Servewarmorcold.

ClassicChocolateMousse

Chocolate mousses were of this general type before the popularity ofchocolateganache,andtheganacheisfarquickerandeasier,beingonlymeltedchocolateandheavycream.Youcanmakeaganacheevenmoreattractive when you fold in beaten egg whites, and you go to evengreater heights when you blend in Italian meringue. However, thefollowingsmooth,rich,velvetyclassiccontinuestobemyfavoriteofallchocolatemousses.Forabout5cups,serving6to8.Melt6ouncessemisweetchocolatein

4 tablespoons strong coffee, and cut 1½ sticks of unsalted butter intoroughslices,soitwillsoften.Meanwhile,beattogetherinabowl4eggyolks and ¼ cup orange liqueur, gradually adding ¾ cup sugar, andcontinuebeatinguntilitisthickandpaleyellowand“formstheribbon”.Set thebowlover a saucepanof barely simmeringwater and continuebeating 4 to 5 minutes, until it is foamy, and warm to your finger.Removefromheatandbeatoverabowlofcoldwater(orinastandingmixer)untilitiscoolandthickandagainformstheribbon.Whenthechocolatehasmelted,smoothlyblendinthebutter,andfold

intotheegg-yolkmixture.Beat4eggwhitestosoftpeaks,thentostiff,shining peakswith 2 tablespoons sugar. Stir a quarter of this into theyolksandchocolate,thendelicatelyfoldintherest.Turnthemousseintoa6-cupservingdishorindividualcupsorpotsde

crème. Cover and chill for several hours (themousse will keep in therefrigerator several days). Serve with lightly whipped cream or theabovecrèmeanglaise.

Formingaroundloaf

Beatingeggwhitestostiff,shiningpeaks

Goosereadytotakeoff

Along-handledbrushishandyforbastingaturkey.

Smoothingmeltedchocolate

Proudlyshowingafinishedcake

Breads,Crêpes,andTarts

“Ofcourseyoucanbuyaready-madepieshell,butit’sashamenottohavetheknow-howyourself.”

BREADSYeast bread is a vast subject, comprising not only white bread andFrenchbreadbut croissants, brioches, pumpernickel,wholewheat andrye, sourdoughs, and so forth. In this little book, therefore, I amconcentratingonlyonsomeofthebasicsthatapplytoallofthem.

BasicDoughforWhiteBread,FrenchBreads,Pizzas,andHardRollsEnough for one 2-quart loaf pan, 2 long fat French loaves, three 18-inchbaguettes,two9-inchroundloaves,two16-inchpizzas,or12rolls

1package(ascantTbs)activedryyeast

⅓cuptepidwater(notover110°F)

Pinchofsugar

1cupcoldwater,plusmoreifneeded

3½cups(1pound)unbleachedwhiteall-purposeorbreadflour,plusalittlemoreifneeded

1Tbsryeorwhole-wheatflour

2¼tspsalt

Proof yeast in tepid water with the sugar for 5 minutes (see boxbelow),thenstirinthecoldwater.Measurethefloursandsaltintothefood processor fitted with a steel blade. With the machine running,ratherslowlyprocessintheyeastandwater,addingdribletsmorecoldwater if needed, until the dough balls up on top of the blade. Let itrevolve 8 to 10 times, then stop the machine and feel the dough. Itshould be reasonably soft and pliable. If damp and wet, process in atablespoonorsomoreflour; ifdry,addadribblemorecoldwater.Let

restfor5minutes.

TOPROOFYEAST.It’salwayswisetomakesureyouryeastisreallyactive.Stira tablespoon of active dry yeast in a cupwith 3 tablespoons of tepidwaterandapinchofsugar.In5minutesitshouldbegintobubble.It’salive!

Process the dough another 15 seconds or so, then remove it to aflouredboardand let it rest2minutes.Knead it vigorouslybyhandagood50times,asdescribedintheboxbelow.

FINALKNEADINGOFDOUGHBYHAND.Ifyouoverkneadintheprocessor,thedoughcanheatup;inaddition,theglutenstrandscanbreakdown,preventingafullrise.Tofinishthedough,folditoveronitself,then,withtheheelsof your hands, push it out in front of you, roughly, rapidly, andvigorously. Repeat about 50 times, until it is smooth and elastic andwhenyoustretchthedoughitholdstogether.Itshouldnotsticktoyourhandsunlessyoupinchandholdapiece.

Preliminary Rise. Turn the dough into a 4-quart fairly straight-sidedungreasedbowl.Coverbowlwithplasticwrapandatowel,andsetinadraft-freeplace—75°F is ideal.Doughwill rise to1½times itsoriginalvolume,usuallyinabout1hour.

RESTING THEDOUGH.Flourcontainsbothstarchandgluten.Theglutenholdsthe particles together and also allows the dough to hold its rise.However,glutendevelopsincreasingresistanceasthedoughisworked,and it thenbecomesmoreandmoredifficult tomanipulate.Wheneveryourdoughwon’trolleasily,simplystopwhereyouareandletitrest10minutesorso.Theglutenwillrelax,andyoucancontinue.

SecondRise.Turndoughoutontoalightlyflouredboard.Pushandpatitintoa14-inchrectangleandfolditinto3,likeabusinessletter.Repeatasecond time, then return it to the ungreased bowl, cover, and let riseagain.Itwillriseto2½to3timesitsoriginalvolume,usuallyin1to1½hours.Whenalmosttripled,thedoughisreadytoformandbake.

TEMPERATURESFORRISING.Idealtemperaturesare70°to75°F.Warmer,theriseistoofastandyoumissoutonflavordevelopment.Colderisfine,evendowntoarefrigeratorchill—yougetflavordevelopment—butitsimplytakesthedoughlongertorise:thecoldertheenvironment,thelongerittakes.

ToFormandBake2LongFrenchLoaves

The very special movements here are designed to force the dough todevelop a gluten cloak that holds as it bakes free-form into itscharacteristicloaf.Keepyourworksurfacelightlyflouredatalltimes,sothegradually formingcloakwillnot tear.Seta smooth, lightly flouredcottonorlinentowelonalargerimless(orupside-down)bakingsheet,toholdtheformedloaves.Cut thedough inhalf, then foldeachpiece inhalf.Coverone;pushandpattheotherintoan8-by-10-inchroughlyrectangularshape.Foldinhalflengthwise.Pressandpoundfirmlywithyourfisttosealtheedgesandflattenthedoughtoaboutitsoriginalshape.Roll the dough so the seam is centered on top, and firmly press aroughtrenchintotheseamwiththesideofyourhand.Using the seam as a guide, fold the dough in half lengthwise, andagainpresslongedgestogetherfirmlytoseal.Starting at its center, begin rolling this length of dough under youropen palms, gradually moving your hands apart and stretching thedough as you roll. Elongate the dough to about 18 inches (no longerthanthelengthofyourbakingsurface!)andplaceitseamsideuponthelonghalfofthelightlyflouredtowel.Inowliketopinchthesealedlongedges securely together, just to be sure. Cover loosely with another

floured towel while you form the second loaf the same way. Make apleatinthetowelalongsidethefirstloaf,toseparatethetwoloaves,andlaythesecondinplace.FinalRiseBeforeBaking.Usually1to1½hours.Coverbothloaveswith

the floured towel and let rise until more than doubled in volume.Meanwhile,makeeverythingreadyforbaking,sothatyoumayproceedalmostatonce.

EQUIPMENTNEEDEDFORBAKINGFRENCHBREAD.Frenchbreadnotonlyrisesfree-form,but it bakes free-form—not in a pan. It is difficult, even frustrating toattemptitwithouttheproperequipment.Hereiswhatyouwillneed.A Hot Baking Surface. French bread does not cook properly when

bakedonametalsheet. Itmustbesliduponabakingstoneorapizzastone, or line your oven rack with ceramic quarry tiles—available insomecookwareshopsorinbuilding-supplystores.Unmolding and Sliding Boards. The risen loaf is unmolded from its

flouredtowelandslidontothehotbakingsurface.Iuse⅜-inchplywoodbought at the home-improvement store, an 8-by-20-inch board forunmolding and for sliding a single loaf, and a 20-inch board 2 inchesnarrower than thewidthofmyoven for sliding several long loavesorrolls.Cornmeal. A light dusting of coarse cornmeal on the sliding board

keepsthedoughfromsticking.Steam.Toprolongtheriseandsetthecrust,youneedsteamthefirst

few seconds of baking. In an electric oven, toss½ cupwater into thebottom, just before closing thedoor. In a gasoven, set ahot cast-ironfryingpanon the lowest level as youpreheat, and toss thewater intothatwhenthetimecomes.

ToBake2LoavesofFrenchBread.Slidetheovenrackontothemiddleorlower-middlelevel,setthebakingstoneortilesuponit,andpreheattheovento450°F.Sprinkletheslidingboardlightlywithcornmeal,and

haveyourunmoldingboardandinstant-readthermometerathand.Removethecoveringtowelandplacetheunmoldingboardagainsttheinsidesideofoneloaf,liftthetowelontheotherside,andfliptheloaf,itssmoothsideup,ontotheboard,thennudgetheloafontoonesideoftheslidingboard.Repeatwith thesecond loaf.Push the loavesso thattheendsofeachareatoneendoftheboard.Witharazorbladeheldalmostflat,make3slightlyangledslashesinthetopofeachloaf.Opentheovendoor.Poisetheslidingboardsothattheendsoftheloavesareabout1inchfromthebackoftheoven,thenquicklysnatchtheboardoutfromundertheloaves,depositingthemonthehot surface. Immediatelypour½cupwaterontooven floororhotpan.Closethedoor.Bake20minutes;reducetemperatureto400°Fandbake10minutesmore,untildone(seeboxbelow).Removeandcoolonarack.

WHEN IS THE BREAD DONE? The loaves should feel light, they should make apleasantthumpwhentapped,buttheyarenotdoneuntilaninstant-readthermometer,leftinforseveralseconds,reads200°F.

VARIATIONS

BAGUETTES. After the second rise, divide the dough into 3 equalpieces.Shape,roll,andstretcheach intoa thin(2-inchdiameter)rope; let riseuntilmorethandoubled.Bakeas for fat loaves,butcheckfordoneness5minutesafterreducingheatto400°F.ROUND COUNTRY LOAF (OR LOAVES).After the secondrise, turn thedoughout onto a floured surface; deflate as described in the masterrecipe.Use all thedough for 1 large loaf, or divide inhalf for 2smallerloaves.Patthedoughintoadisk.Liftonesideandbringitalmostovertheother;rotateaquarterturn,andrepeat6to8times,tomakeathick cushion. Turn the dough over and rotate it between yourpalms,tuckingthesidesunderasyougo,tomakeasmooth,roundloaf.

Turn thedoughover, smooth sideunderneath.Pinch theedgestogether, set on a floured towel, and cover with another towel.(Repeatwiththeremainingdough,ifyouaremaking2.)Let rise untilmore than doubled. Prepare and preheat oven to

450°Fas inthemasterrecipe.Transfertheloavessmoothsideuptothecornmeal-dustedslidingboard.Slashthetopwithyourrazorin a decorative pattern, such as a crosshatch or a tree withbranches. Slide into the oven, create steam, and bake as in themaster recipe. Large loaves may need an additional 10 to 15minutesat375°Ftofinishbaking.BAKING INALOAFPAN.Buttera2-quartloafpan.Patthedoughintoarectangle slightly smaller than the pan. Fold in half lengthwisetwice, as for long loaves, to form an even rectangle. Place seamdown in pan, press flat into corners. Let rise until dough hasdoubledinvolume.Meanwhile, slide rack onto lower-third level, and preheat the

ovento450°F.Slashtopofloaflengthwisedownthecenterwitharazor,andbakefor20minutes,thenreducetemperatureto400°F.Whendone,turnoutofpanandcoolonarack.HARDFRENCHROLLS.Afteritssecondrise,dividedoughinto12pieces.Fold each in half.One at a time (or 2when you are an expert),rotatethedoughunderthepalmofonehandtoformaball.Pinchundersides toseal,andsetsmoothsidedownona lightly flouredtowel. Cover with a second towel and let rise until more thandoubled.Prepareandpreheattheovento450°F,asinthemasterrecipe.

Arrangetherolls3or4atatimesmoothsideupattheendofyourcornmeal-dusted sliding board. Slash each with a circular strokearound the side, or a cross on top. Slide onto baking stone andrapidlycontinuewiththerest.Makesteamasinthemasterrecipe.Bake15to20minutes,thenreducetemperatureto375°Fandbakeafewminutesmoreuntildone.

MAKING AND KNEADING DOUGH BY HAND. If you prefer to make the dough

entirely by hand, mix the ingredients in a bowl with a sturdywooden spoon, then turn dough out onto a lightly floured worksurface. For the first fewminutes, pick it upwith a scraper andslap it down roughly, and continue a number of times, until thedough begins to have body. Let rest 5minutes. Then proceed tokneaditwithyourhandsasdescribedinthebox.

PIZZA.Fortwo16-inchtomatopizzas.Setrackonthelower-middlelevelandpreheattheovenandpizzastoneto450°F.Formthedoughinto2smoothballsandletrest,covered.After

10 minutes, lightly flour a pizza paddle; flatten and stretch thedoughintoathindiskonthepaddlebyrollingitoutandpressinginto shapewithyour fingers,or stretchand twirl it,professional-style, while supporting it on both your fists and twisting themapart—you’llhavetoseeitdonetodoit!Brushthetopofthedoughgenerouslywitholiveoil,dustwith

½ cup of grated hard cheese, and spread over 2 cups of freshtomatosauce.Drizzleonmoreoliveoil,sprinkleon½cuporsoofgratedmozzarellacheese;asprinkleofthyme,oregano,orItalianherbs;andalittlesaltandpepper.Drizzleonmoreoilandanother½-cupdustingofgratedhardcheese.Slideontohotbakingstoneandbake10to15minutes,oruntil

topisbubbling,edgeshavepuffed,andbottomiscrisped.Preparesecondpizzawhilefirstisbaking.

BakingintheBreadMachine:WhiteSandwichBread—PaindeMie

It’snotalwayseasytofindgoodsandwichbread,andwhenIneedjustoneloafIenjoyusingthebreadmachine.Idon’tbakeitinthemachine,becauseIdon’tlikethelookoftheloaf,butit’sneatandeasyformixingandrising.Here’smyformula,madeinanystandard-sizemachine.

Foran8-cupfairlystraight-sidedloafpan

Proof2teaspoonsyeast,1½tablespoonstepidwater,andapinchofsugarinacup.Meanwhile,melt½stickroughlyslicedunsaltedbutterin

½cupmilk, then cool it off by adding1 cup coldmilk. Pour into thecontainer of the machine along with 2 teaspoons salt, 1½ teaspoonssugar, 3½ cups plain unbleached all-purpose flour, and the proofedyeast.Startthemachineandfollowdirectionsfor“dough.”Afteritsrise,removethedough,flattenit,foldinto3,andreturnittothemachineforasecondrise.Thenthedoughisreadytoformandbake.Eitherbakeasin“BakinginaLoafPan”,or,foraflat-topped,evenlyrectangular loaf, fill thebutteredpanbynomore thana third,and letrise to slightlymore thandouble. (Formany extra dough into rolls orbabyloaves.)Covertopofpanwithbutteredfoil,andsetinthelower-middlelevelofthepreheated425°Foven.Setabakingsheetontopofthepan,weightingitdownwitha5-poundsomething,likeabrickorametalobject.Bake 30 to 35 minutes, until the dough has filled the pan and isbrowningwell.Thenuncoverthepanandcontinueanother10minutesorso,untiltheloafcomeseasilyoutofthepan.Theinteriortemperatureshouldbe200°F.

TWODESSERTSBASEDONBREADAppleCharlotteServes10

4poundsfirmapplesthatholdtheirshapewhencooking,suchasGoldenDelicious,peeledandchoppedinto½-inchpieces

⅔cupclarifiedbutter

½cupeitherlight-ordark-brownsugar

Gratedpeelof1lemon

Smallpinchofpowderedcinnamon

⅓cupsievedapricotjam

2tsppurevanillaextract

3TbsdarkJamaicanrum

13slicesfirmhome-stylesandwichbread(previousrecipe),crustsoff

1cupapricotglaze

1½cupscustardsauce(crèmeanglaise)

Sauté the apple pieces in 2 tablespoons of the butter for 2 to 3minutes. Sprinkle on brown sugar and lemon peel and continue for 5minutesormore,untiltheapplesstarttobrownandcaramelize.Stirinthe cinnamon, apricot jam, vanilla, and rum, and sauté another 2minutesorso,untilappleshaveabsorbedtheliquid.Set racks inmiddleand lower-middle levelsandpreheat theoven to425°F.Arrange4slicesofbreadinasquareonyourworksurface.Centera 6-cup straight-sided circular baking dish such as a charlotte on thesquare,andcutaroundthebottomtomakeacircleofbreadin4pieces;reservethem.Cuta2-inchcirclefromanotherslice,andreserve.Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a frying pan and brown thereservedbread pieces, including the circle, on both sides. Thenbrownthe trimmings. Butter the bottom of the baking dish and line with acircle ofwaxpaper.Arrange the circle of sautéedbreadpieces over it(but reserve the small circle). Halve all the remaining bread sliceslengthwise. One by one, dip each piece in the remaining butter andarrangeuprightandslightlyoverlappingaroundtheinsideofthemold.Spoonlayersofsautéedapplesalternatingwithsautéedbreadtrimmings(whichactasfillers)intothedish,lettingthefillinghump¾inchovertherim.Setinthemiddlerackoftheoven,andthenslideapanunderneathtocatch any juices. Bake for about 30minutes, pressing down on applesseveral times with a spatula, until bread strips lining the sides havebrownednicely.Removefromovenandletrestatleast1hour.Unmoldontoaservingplate,paint topandsideswithapricotglaze;center thesmallcircleontopandglaze.Servewarmorcold,withthecrèmeanglaise.Cinnamon Toast Flan—a Bread Pudding For a 6-cup baking dish 2inchesdeep,serving6to8

4Tbssoftenedunsaltedbutter6or7sliceswhitesandwichbread,crustslefton

¼cupsugarmixedwith2tspgroundcinnamon

5“large”eggs

5eggyolks

¾cupsugar

3¾cupshotmilk

1½Tbsvanillaextract

Butterthebreadslicesononeside,usinghalfthebutter.Arrangethembuttered side up on a broiling rack and sprinkle cinnamon sugar overeach.Watching carefully, broil a few seconds, until sugar bubbles up.Cut each slice into 4 triangles. Smear the remaining butter inside thebakingdish,andfillwiththetoasttriangles,sugarsideup.Makeacustardsauce(crèmeanglaise)withtheeggs,yolks,sugar,milk,

and vanilla, and pour half through a sieve over the toast. Let soak 5minutes,thensieveontheremainingcustard.Place the dish in a roasting pan and set in the lower-middle of a

preheated350°Foven.Pourboilingwaterintothepantocomehalfwayupthebakingdish.Bakefor25to30minutes,keepingthewaterbathatjust below the simmer. It is done when a skewer plunged into thecustardaninchfromthesidecomesoutclean.Serve hot, at room temperature, or cold, accompanied with a fruit

sauceorcut-upfreshfruits.(Itwillkeep2daysintherefrigerator.)

CRÊPES—PAPER-THINFRENCHPANCAKESCrêpes are easy indeed to make and are a most useful resource forsimplebutdressymaincoursesanddesserts.Whatishelpful,too,isthatyoucanmakeagoodnumberwhileyouareatitandfreezetheextras,readyalmostatonceformanyaquickmeal.

MASTERRECIPE

All-PurposeCrêpesForabouttwenty5-inchorten8-inchcrêpes

1cupinstant-blendingflourorall-purposeflour,scoopedandleveled

⅔cupcoldmilk

⅔cupcoldwater

3“large”eggs

¼tspsalt

3Tbsmeltedbutter,plusmoreforbrushingonpan

Mix all the ingredients smoothly in a blender or food processor, orwithawhisk.Refrigerate10minutesifyou’veusedinstantflour,½houror more if all-purpose. A rest allows the flour particles to absorb theliquid, making for a tender crêpe. Heat a nonstick frying pan withbottomdiameter5 to8 inchesuntil dropsofwaterdanceon it; brushlightlywithmeltedbutter.Pourin2to3tablespoonsofbatterandtiltpan in all directions to cover bottomevenly.Cook about 1minute, oruntil brownedon thebottom; turn and cookbriefly on theother side.Cool on a rack as you continue with the rest.When thoroughly cool,stackandrefrigeratefor2days,orfreezeforseveralweeks.

ROLLEDCRÊPES:SAVORYANDDESSERTROULADES

SavorySpinachandMushroomCrêpeRoulades

For 8 crêpes, serving 4. Prepare 2 cups béchamel sauce; 1¼ cupschopped, cooked, well-seasoned spinach; 1 cup quartered sautéedmushrooms.Spreadathinlayerofsauceoverthebottomofabutteredgratin dish and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons grated Swiss cheese. Mixspinachandmushroomswith½cupofsauceanddivideinto8.Spoon1portionon the lowerundersideofeachof8crêpes.Rollup thecrêpesandarrange,seamdown,inthedish.Spoonremainingsauceoverthemandsprinkleonanother½cupofgratedcheese.Bakeintheupperthirdofapreheated375°Fovenfor25to30minutes,justuntilbubblingandlightlybrownedontop.

StrawberryDessertCrêpes

For8crêpes,serving4.Mixapintormorefreshslicedstrawberrieswithateaspoonortwoeachofsugarandkirsch,orangeliqueur,orcognac,andletstandforanhour.Drain,spoonberriesgenerouslyoverthelowerundersideofacrêpe,androllup.Arrange2crêpes,seamdown,oneach

servingplate.Drizzleoveraspoonfulofberryjuicesandtopwithlightlywhippedcream—crèmeChantilly.

LAYEREDCRÊPES:SAVORYANDDESSERTGÂTEAUX

SavoryTowerofCrêpeswithLobster,Broccoli,andMushrooms

For10 to12crêpes, serving5 to6.Stir½cupofgratedSwiss cheeseinto 2 cups warm béchamel sauce, making it now a Mornay sauce.Prepare2cupsofcreamedlobster,using½cupofthesauceinsteadofheavy cream.Mix½ cup of sauce into 2 cups of broccoli florets, andanother½cupofsaucewith2cupsofquarteredsautéedmushrooms.Centeralargecrêpeinabakingdishandspoononhalfofonefilling;

coverwithanothercrêpeandhalfofsecondfilling;topwithacrêpeandhalfofthethirdfilling.Repeat,endingwithaplaincrêpe,andspooningtheremainingsauceoverall.Bakefor30minutesinapreheated400°Foven,oruntilbubblingand

lightlybrowned.

DessertGâteauofCrêpesàlaNormande

For 12 crêpes, serving 5 to 6. Spread 4 to 5 cups peeled and slicedGoldenDeliciousapplesinalargebakingpan;sprinkleoverthem⅓cupsugar and 4 tablespoons melted butter. Bake in a 350°F oven for 15minutes,oruntil applesare tender.Centera small crêpe inabutteredbaking dish, coverwith a layer of apple slices, and sprinkle over it atablespoon ofmacaroon crumbs, drops ofmelted butter, and drops ofcognac.Layacrêpeontop, thenanotherapple-macaroon layer; repeatuntilyouhave10or11layers.Topwithafinalcrêpe.Sprinklemeltedbutterandsugaroverthetop,andbakeina375°Fovenuntilbubblinghot.

OTHERFILLINGS.

For Savory Crêpes. Use any of the fillings and sauces suggested foromelets.ForDessertCrêpes.Oneofthesimplest,andalwayspopularasafamily

treat,istospreadtheundersideswithsoftbutter,sprinkleonsugar,rollthem up, sprinkle sugar on top, and bake at 375°F until hot through.Serveas is,orflamethemwithcognacororangeliqueur.Orroll themupwithapricot,strawberry,orraspberryjam;ororangemarmalade;orthemarvelousorangebutterusedforthefollowingcrêpesSuzette.

CrêpesSuzetteFor12crêpes,serving6

2fresh,firm,bright-skinnedoranges

½cupplus1Tbssugar

2sticks(8ounces)unsaltedbutter

3Tbsorangeliqueurforthebutter,plus¼cupforflaming

About½cupstrainedorangejuice

12crêpes(5-inchcrêpes)

¼to⅓cupcognac

Peelthezest(orangepartofpeelonly)fromtheorangesandpulverizein a food processor with the ½ cup sugar. Add the butter; whencreamed,dribbleinthe3Tbsorangeliqueurandtheorangejuice.Inalargechafingdishor skillet,boil theorangebutter for4or5minutes,until syrupy.Oneat a time, rapidlybathe crêpes in thebutter; fold inhalf,bestsideout,andinhalfagain,toformawedgeshape.Arrange attractively in the chafing dish and sprinkle on the 1

tablespoonofsugar.Pourtheremainingorangeliqueurandthecognacintoaladle,thenpouroverthecrêpes.Whenbubbling,tiltpanintotheflame or light with a match and spoon the flaming liquid over thecrêpes.Serveonveryhotplates.

VARIATION

CRÊPESWITHORANGE-ALMONDBUTTER.Beat½cupfinelygroundalmondsormacaroon crumbs and ¼ teaspoon almond extract into theprecedingorangebutter.Spreadon18smallcrêpes,foldtheminto

wedges,andarrange,overlapping,onabakingdish.Sprinkleoverthem3tablespoonssugarandheatina375°Fovenfor15minutes,or until tops of crêpes begin to caramelize. Pour ⅓ cup eachorangeliqueurandcognacintoasmallsaucepan,heat,andignitewithamatch.Spoonflamingliquidovercrêpes,andserve.

TARTSExceptformakingthepie-crustdough,tartsareamongtheeasiestofourculinary treasures to produce, and the food processor makes thatproduction even easier. Of course you can buy ready-made pie shells,butitisashamenottohavetheknow-howyourself.

KEEP ITCHILLED!Doughwithahighfatcontentlikethisonesoftensquicklyat room temperature and becomes difficult if not impossible to workwith.Wheneverthishappenstoyou,stopwhereyouareandrefrigerateitfor20minutes.Tomakethingseasierforme,Iboughtamarbleslabthatnowlivesintherefrigerator;ItakeoutthatchilledslabanduseitasaworksurfaceanytimeI’mdoingadough.

MASTERRECIPE

All-Purpose Pie Dough—Pâte Brisée FineDough for two 9-inch roundshellsora14-by-18-inchfree-formshellYou will note the mixture of flours and fats here. Without them, ourgeneral American all-purpose flour,which is relatively high in gluten,cangiveyouabrittleratherthanatendercrust.Butifyouhave“pastryflour,” you can use that alone, along with all butter rather than amixtureofbutterandvegetableshortening.

1½cupsunbleachedall-purposeflour(measuredbythescoop-and-levelsystem)

½cupplainbleachedcakeflour

1tspsalt

1½sticks(6ounces)chilledunsaltedbutter,diced

4Tbschilledvegetableshortening

½cupicewater,plusdropletsmoreifneeded

Drop the flours, salt, and butter in to the bowl of a food processorfittedwiththesteelblade.Pulse5or6timesin½-secondburststobreakup the butter. Then add the shortening, turn on the machine, andimmediatelypourintheicewater,pulsing2or3times.Removecoverandobserve thedough,whichwill look like amass of smallish lumpsandshouldjustholdinamasswhenahandfulispressedtogether.Iftoodry,pulseindropletsmorewater.Turn dough out onto your work surface, andwith the heel of yourhandrapidlyandroughlypushegg-sizeblobsout in frontofyou in6-inch smears. Gather the dough into a relatively smooth cake;wrap inplastic, and refrigerate at least 2 hours (or up to 2 days), or youmayfreezeitforseveralmonths.

WHAT TO BAKE IT IN OR ON.Bakeyour tart shell in abottomlessbuttered flanringsetonabutteredpastry sheet,or ina false-bottomedcakepanorflutedpan,oronabutteredupside-downpieplateorcakepan.Oryoucanfashionafree-formshellonabutteredpastrysheet.

VARIATION

SWEETDOUGH FORDESSERT TARTS.Usethesameformula,butcutthesaltdownto¼teaspoonandinclude2tablespoonssugar.

FormingaTartShell

ToForma9-InchRoundShellinaFlanRing.Havetheringandpastrysheetbutteredandatyourside.Cutthechilleddoughinhalfandkeeponehalfwrappedandchilled.Rapidly,onalightlyflouredsurface,rolltheotherhalfintoacircularshape⅛inchthickand1½incheslargerallaroundthanyourring.Rollthedoughuponyourpinandunrollitoverthering,thenlightlypressthedoughinplace.Tomakesturdysides,pushabout½inchdown

them all around. Roll your pin over the top to trim off excess dough,thenpushitup⅓inchallaroundthesidestomakearim.Using the tines of a table fork, laid flat, press a design on the rim.Prick thebottomof thedoughall overwitha fork.Coverwithplasticwrapandchillatleast30minutesbeforebaking.

APROPERROLLINGPIN.Getyourselfastraightrollingpinabout18incheslongand1¾inchesindiameter,oruseanItalianpastapin.

ToFormaShellonanUpside-DownPan.Buttertheoutsideofthepanand set it upside down on a baking sheet. Roll out the dough, drapelooselyoverthepan,andpressgentlyontopanallaround.Tomakethewall thicker, push dough up on the sides with your thumbs. Press adecorativeedgingaroundthesideswiththetinesofaforkheldflat.To Form a Large Free-Form Rectangular Tart Shell. Roll the chilleddough into a16-by-20-inch rectangle⅛ inch thick.Roll it uponyourpin and unroll onto a lightly buttered rimless baking sheet. Trim thesidesperfectlystraight,thensliceastripofdough1inchwidefromeachedgeof therectangle.Moistentheoutsideborderof therectanglewithcoldwaterandlaythestripsontoptoformaraisedrim.Pressthestripswith the tinesof a fork to seal anddecorate, andprick thebottomalloverwiththetinesofthefork.Wrapandchill.

PrebakingaShell—“BlindBaking”

Youwillalwayshaveacrispercrustfortartsbakedwithafillingwhenyouprebaketheshellfirst.Sliderackintothelower-middlelevel,andpreheattheovento450°F.For a quiche ring, false-bottomed pan, or free-form shell, butter theshinysideofapieceoffoilseveralincheslargerthanyourshell.Pressitlightly,butteredsidedown,againstthechilledtartshellonthebottomandsides.Topreventbottomfromrisingandsidesfromcollapsing,pourindrybeans,rice,oraluminum“pieweights,”beingsureyoualsobankthemagainstthesides.Bake 10 to 15minutes, until the bottom pastry is set but still soft.

Removefoilandbeans,prickthebottomagainwithafork,andreturntooven.Forapartialcooking,bake2minutesorsomore,untilpastryjustbegins to color and to separate from the sides if in a ring. For a fullycookedshell,bake4ormoreminutes,untillightlybrowned.

MASTERRECIPEFORSAVORYTART

QuicheLorraineFora9-inchquiche,serving6

6stripsofcrisplycookedbacon

Apartiallybaked9-inchtartshell(seeabove)

3“large”eggs

About1cupcream

Salt,freshlygroundpepper,andnutmeg

Preheat oven to 375°F. Break bacon into pieces and strew in shell.Blend the eggs with enough cream to make 1½ cups of custard, andblend in seasonings to taste. Pour into shell to within⅛ inch of rim.Bake 30 to 35minutes, or until puffed and browned. Unmold onto aroundplatterandservewarmoratroomtemperature.

QUICHE PROPORTIONS. Any quiche can be made with either heavy or lightcreamorwithmilk. The proportions always are 1 egg in ameasuringcupplusmilkorcreamtothe½-cuplevel;2eggsandmilkorcreamtothe1-cup level;3eggsandmilkor cream to the1½-cup level; and soforth.

VARIATIONS

CHEESEANDBACONQUICHE.Followthemasterrecipe,butsprinkle½cupgrated Swiss cheese into shell before adding the custard, plusanotherspoonfulontopbeforebaking.SPINACHQUICHE.Blend1cupcookedchopped,well-flavoredspinachinto the custard. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons grated Swiss cheese into

thebottomoftheshell,pourinthecustard,sprinklemorecheeseontop,andbakeasdirected. SHELLFISH QUICHE. Prepare the shellfish as described, but omit thecream.Spreadintothepastryshell,pourinthecustard,sprinkleon3tablespoonsgratedSwisscheese,andbakeasdirected. ONION AND SAUSAGE QUICHE. Spread 2 cups tenderly sautéed mincedonions in the shell. Pour the custard over, arrange on top thinlyslicedcookedItaliansausageand¼cupgratedSwisscheese.Bakeasdirected. OTHER ADDITIONS. Use about a cup for a 9-inch shell. Just aboutanything edible can be quiche material, from cooked or cannedsalmontotunafish,thebroccoliflorets,thepipérade,slicedsautéedwhiteofleek,sautéedmushroomsorchickenlivers,andsoforth.

MASTERRECIPE

AppleTartFora9-inchtart,serving4to6

Aprebaked9-inchtartshell

Warmapricotglaze

2or3firmapples(suchasGrannySmithorGoldenDelicious),halved,cored,peeled,andneatlysliced

2Tbssugar

Paintthebottomoftheshellwithapricotglaze.Arrangetheapplesinadecorativepattern,fillingtheshell;sprinkleoverthesugar.Bakeintheupper-middlelevelofapreheated375°Fovenfor30to35minutes,untilthe apples are lightly colored and perfectly tender. Unmold onto aplatterandpainttopofappleswithmoreapricotglaze.Servewarmorcold.

VARIATIONS

FREE-FORM APPLE TART. Form a 14-by-18-inch free-form tart shell asdetailed.Sprinkle2tablespoonssugarintheshell.Peel,core,andslice3or4GoldenDeliciousapples,andarrange inneat rowsof

overlappingslices.Sprinkleovermoresugar.Bakeandglazeasinthemasterrecipe. PEAR TART. Use firm ripe pears, such as Bartletts, in either of theprecedingappletarts.FRESHSTRAWBERRYTART.Paintafullybaked8-or9-inchtartshellwithwarm red-currant glaze. Arrange 1 quart of fresh hulledstrawberries attractively, headsup, in the shell, andpaint lightlywithmoreglaze.Servewithwhippedcreamontheside. PASTRY CREAM AND STRAWBERRIES. After glazing the bottom of the tartshell,spreadonalayernomorethan¼inchthickofpastrycream,thenarrangethestrawberriesontopandcompletetherecipe.OTHER IDEAS.Ratherthanstrawberries,useraspberries,blueberries,oramixture;includehalvedseedlessgrapesand/orasprinklingofchoppednuts;orslicedfreshorcannedpeaches,apricots,orpears;orhalvedripefigs.Thisisagreatopportunityforyoutouseyourcreativeskills.

TheFamousUpside-DownAppleTarteTatin

For 6 servings. Provide yourselfwith a heavy ovenproof 9-inch skilletandathirdtoahalfoftherecipeforchilledpiedough.Sliderackontolower-middlelevelandpreheatovento425°F.Slicethehalvesof6coredandpeeledGoldenDeliciousapplesinto4

lengthwise wedges each, and toss with the grated zest and juice of 1lemonand½cupsugar.Drainaftermacerating20minutes.Heat6 tablespoonsunsaltedbutter in the fryingpanoverhighheat;

stir in 1 cup sugar, and cook until syrup bubbles and turns caramel-brown.Off heat, arrange a layer of apple slices in a neat pattern on the

caramelcoating,thenarrangetherestoftheapplesfairlyneatlyontop.Return over moderately high heat and cook for about 25 minutes,

covering thepanafter10minutes,andpressingdownonappleseveryseveralminutesasyoubastethemwithexudedjuices.Whenthejuicesarethickandsyrupy,removefromheat.Rollthechilleddoughintoacircle,3/16inchthickand1inchlarger

than top of pan. Drape over apples, pressing edge of dough betweenapplesandinsideofpan;cut4smallsteamholesontop.Bakeabout20minutes,untilthepastryhasbrownedandcrisped.Unmoldontoaservingdishsothepastryisonthebottom,andserve

hot, warm, or cold, with whipped cream, sour cream, or vanilla icecream.

TO CLEAN A BURN-BLACKENED PAN. Fill thepanwithwater, adding2Tbsbakingsoda per quart. Simmer 10 minutes, cover, and let soak off heat forseveral hours or overnight. The black residue should scrub off easilywithastiffbrush.

TIMING—REGULAR VERSUS CONVECTION OVENS. All the timings in this book are forregular ovens. Convection ovens cook about one-third faster. In otherwords,alegoflambthattakes2hoursat325°Finaregularovenwillprobablytakelessthan1½hoursinaconvectionoven.

CakesandCookies

“Whenyouhavemasteredanumberoffrostingsandfillings,cakemakingbecomesjustanassemblyjob.”

You will find all the standard cake and cookie recipes detailed innumerouscookbooks,includingsomeofmine.HereIamonlytouchingona fewofmy favorites,andspendingmore timeon the fundamental“how-to”s,suchasthebeatingofeggwhites,thepreparationofthecakepan,themeasuringofflour,themeltingofchocolate.Ratherthangivingtwo general cake recipes, I am concentrating on the génoise, that all-purposework horse for layer cakes, petits fours, jelly rolls, cup cakes,andsoforth.Beforetheelectricmixeritwasarealchoretomake,sinceits basis is whole eggs and sugar beaten at length to produce a thickcream—arduous by hand, easier with a portable beater, easy indeedwhenyouhaveoneofthemodernmixersonastand.Ihaveincludedaclassicalmondcake,awalnutcake,myfavoritechocolatecake,andthealways popular dacquoisewith its crunchymeringue-nut layers.Whenyouhavea fewcake formulasand filling ideas inyour repertoire,youwillfindthatit’sprettymuchanassemblyjob—youcanmixandmatcha different way every time. Please note that there’s only one cookierecipe—nomoreroom!

CAKES

MASTERRECIPE

GénoiseCakeFor about 6 cups of batter, tomake 1 round 9-by-1½-inchcake,or1round8-by-2-inchcake(orenoughfor16cupcakes,ora12-by-16-inchspongesheet)

½cupplus⅓cupplainbleachedcakeflour(siftedandmeasuredasperthebox)

1Tbsplus½cupsugar

¼tspsalt

¼cupwarmclarifiedbutter

4“large”eggs

1tsppurevanillaextract

Preheat oven to 350°F, slide rack onto the lower-middle level, andprepareyourpan.Sifttheflourwiththe1Tbssugarandsaltandreservetheclarifiedbutterina2-quartbowl.Beattheeggsinyourmixerbowlwith the remaining sugar and the vanilla until you have “formed theribbon.”Atonce,rapidlysiftonandfoldinaquarteroftheflour,thenhalftherestoftheflour,andfinally the lastof it.Folda largeplopofthiscakebatterintotheclarifiedbutter,thenfoldthebutter-batterbackintotheremainingbatter.Turnbatterintopreparedpan,fillingittonomore than¼ inch of the rim. Bang lightly onwork surface to deflatebubbles,andbake30to35minutes,untilpuffed,lightlybrowned,andshowingafaintlineofshrinkagefromsidesofpan.Letcool20minutesbefore unmolding onto a rack. Let cool completely before filling andicing.

VARIATIONS

SERVINGSUGGESTION:WHITEMOUNTAINCHOCOLATE-FILLEDGÉNOISE.Prepareadoubleamount of the Italian meringue, and flavor half of it withchocolate,asdirected.Usingalong,serratedknife,cutthecakeinhalfhorizontally.Placebottomhalfonaracksetoveratray,andturn the top half cut side up. Sprinkle both surfaces with rum-flavored imbibing syrup,and spread thechocolatemeringueoverthebottomhalf.Turn the tophalfcut sidedownover the filling,and frost the cake with the remaining white Italian meringue.Beforeserving,dustwithasprinklingofgratedchocolate.

TO PREPARE THE CAKE PAN. Smear inside bottom and sides lightly withsoftened butter. Cut a sheet of wax paper to fit bottom exactly,press it in place, and butter it. Pour¼ cup cake flour into pan,shakeand turn inalldirections tocover surfacecompletely, turn

panupsidedown,andbangoutexcessflour.

TOMEASUREFLOUR: “THESCOOPANDLEVELSYSTEM.”Toavoidtrouble,especiallywhen making pastries, measure your flour accurately. For everyrecipeinthisbook,placethedry-measurecuponalargepieceofwax paper. Scoop the flour directly into the sifter, and sift itdirectlyintothecupuntiloverflowing,then,usingtheflatedgeofabigknife,sweepoffexcessflourlevelwiththerim.

TO STOREA PLAIN CAKE.Whenthoroughlycool,refrigerateinanairtightplasticbagforseveraldays,orfreezeforseveralweeks.

CUPCAKES.Usetheprecedinggénoisebatterforcupcakes,followingdirections foralmondcupcakes,which are some ofmy favoriteswithfruitdessertsandtea. JELLY ROLL—ROULADE. Preheat oven to 375°F and set rack in lowermiddle. Grease the inside of an 11-by-17-inch jelly-roll panwithsoftbutterandlinewithasheetofwaxpaper, leavinganextra2inchesof it at eachend;butter thepaperwhere it lines thepan.Rollflourinthepantocoverinsideandknockoutexcess.Spreadin the génoise batter and bake about 10 minutes, until cake islightly colored and top feels springy. Remove from oven. Thefollowingmaneuversaretopreventcakefromcracking.Sliceoff¼inchfromeachendofcake.Sprinkletopwithconfectioners’sugar.Coverwitha sheetofwaxpaperanda slightlydampened towel.Setatrayoverthetopandreversethetwo.Holdinganendofthewaxpaper,liftoffthejelly-rollpan.Then,verycarefully,peeloffthewax-paperbacking.Sifta⅛-inchlayerofconfectioners’sugaroverthecakeandrollitupinthedamptowel;youmayrefrigerateit foradayor two. If frozen,be sure ithas thoroughlydefrostedbeforeunrolling.ServingSuggestion:ApricotRoulade.Unrollthecake,sprinklewithimbibing syrup, spread on the apricot filling, and frost with

meringuebuttercream.

TheGenoaAlmondCake—PaindeGênes

A special almond cake. For a 9-by-1½-inch 6-cup round cake pan.Preheatovento350°F,andpreparethecakepan.Measureout⅓cupall-purpose flour and return to sifter. Prepare¾ cup pulverized blanchedalmonds,andcream1stickunsaltedbutter inamixingbowluntil softand fluffy.Meanwhile,beat3“large”eggs“to the ribbon”with¾cupsugar,2teaspoonspurevanillaextract,and¼teaspoonalmondextract.Fold3spoonfulsoftheegg-sugarmixtureintothecreamedbutter.Thenfoldsprinklingsofflouralternatingwithspoonfulsofpulverizedalmondsinto the mixture and, when almost absorbed, fold in the butter byscoopfuls.Turnintothepreparedpan,banglightlyonworksurface,andbake in the middle level of the oven about 30 minutes. Let cool 20minutes before unmolding on a rack. When cold, either serve as is,sprinkledwithconfectioners’sugar,orsplit intwohorizontallyandfillwithsomethinglikethebrandy-butter,andtopwithglaceroyale.

FOLDING. Folding eggwhites or flour orwhipped creamor anything elseintoanything likeacakebatter isanessentialpartof souffléandcakemaking.Youhavetoincorporatetheoneintotheotherwithoutdeflatingthepuffoftheoneortheother.Todoso,plungealargerubberspatulalikeaknifedownintothecenterofthemixture,anddrawittothesideofthebowlanduptothesurfaceinarapidscoop,bringingsomeofthebottomupover the top.Rotate thebowlslightly,andcontinuerapidlyandgentlyforseveralscoops,untiltheelementsareblended—butdonotoverdoitanddeflatethepuff.

VARIATION

ALMOND CUP CAKES. For10 cup cakesbaked inmuffin tinsof⅓-cupcapacity. For easy unmolding, grease the tins with a paste of 2tablespoonsflourand2tablespoonsclarifiedmeltedbutter.Dividethe cake batter among the tins and bake about 15 minutes at

350°F, or until puffed and lightly browned. Let cool 15minutesbefore unmolding. When cool, top with confectioners’ sugar orwhiteicing.

LeBrantôme—aWalnutLayerCake

Anothercakewithnuts.Fortwo9-inchcakes layeredtogether,serving10to14.Preheatovento350°F,preparecakepans,andpulverize1cupwalnutmeats. Sift 1½cups all-purpose flourwith2 teaspoonsdouble-actionbakingpowderandreturntosifter.Whip1½cupschilledheavycream into soft mounds and add 2 teaspoons vanilla and⅛ teaspoonsalt.Finally,beatthreelargeeggsand1½cupssugar,graduallyfoldintwo-thirdsoftheflour,scoopthewhippedcreamontop,andfoldit inalongwithsprinklingsofthewalnutsandtheremainingflour.Turnthebatter intothepans,andbakeabout25minutes in themiddle levelofthe oven. Let cool 10 minutes before unmolding on racks. Whenthoroughlycool,fillandiceasdescribedbelow.FilledandFrostedWalnutLayerCake.Setoneofthewalnutcakesonacircularrackoveratrayandspreadontopagood¼-inchlayeroffilling,suchas thebrandy-butter.Turn the secondcakeupsidedownover thefirst and paint the top and sides of the structure with warm apricotglaze.Whiletheglazeisstillwarm,brushchoppedwalnutsaroundthewallsofthecakeandtransfertoaservingplatter.Spreadathinlayerofglace-royalefrostingoverthetopofthecakeanddecorate,ifyouwish,withwalnuthalves.

LaReinedeSaba—theQueenofShebaChocolateAlmondCake

My favorite chocolate cake. For an 8-by-1½-inch cake, serving 6 to 8.Preheatoven to350°F, set rack in lower-middle level,andprepare thecakepan.Measureout½cupsiftedplainbleachedcakeflourand⅓cupblanched pulverized almonds. Using an electric mixer, cream 1 stickunsaltedbutterwith½cupsugar;whenfluffy,oneata timebeat in3eggyolks.Meanwhile,melt3ouncessemisweetchocolateand1ouncebitter chocolatewith2 tablespoonsdark rumor strongcoffee,and stirthewarmchocolateintotheyolks.Beat3eggwhitesintostiff,shiningpeaks,andstiraquarterofthemintotheyolks.Rapidlyanddelicatelyfold in the rest, alternatingwith sprinklingsofalmondsand siftingsof

flour.Turnat once into thepreparedpanandbakeabout25minutes,until it has puffed to the top of the pan but the centermoves slightlywhengentlyshaken.Letcool15minutesbeforeunmolding.Thistypeofchocolatecakeis

always at its best at room temperature. Serve with a dusting ofconfectioners’sugar,orwiththesoftchocolateicing.

PERFECTLYBEATENEGGWHITES.

The Electric Mixer. Whether you are using a mixer on a stand or ahand-heldmixer,usearound-bottomedglass,stainless-steel,orunlinedcopperbowljustwideenoughtoholdthemixerbladeorblades,sothattheentiremassisincontinuousmotionasyoubeat.Thisisessentialforbeatingeggwhites—aswellasforbeatingwholeeggsandsugar.(Ifyoudoanyseriouscooking,you’llneverregretinvestinginaprofessionallydesignedheavy-dutyelectricmixer.Itcostsmoneybutitreallydoesthework,anditwilllastyoualifetime.)PreparingBeaterandBowl.Tomakesurethebeatingbowlandbeater

areabsolutelygrease-free,pour1tablespoonofvinegarand1teaspoonof salt into the bowl and rub cleanwith a paper towel, then rub thebeaterwiththetowel.Donotrinse,sincethetraceofvinegarwillhelpstabilize the egg whites. Be sure there is no trace of egg yolk in thewhites.Beating.Iftheeggsarechilled,setbottomofbowlinhotwaterfora

minuteorsotowarmbrieflytoroomtemperature.Whipthemfastfor2or 3 seconds, just to break them up, then start slow and graduallyincrease speed to fast, watching very carefully not to overbeat if youhaveapowerfulmixer.Theyaredonewhenabitisliftedupinthewiresofthebeateranditformsastiff,shiningpeak,bendingdownslightlyatthetip.Beating Whole Eggs and Sugar “to the Ribbon.” The same general

principles apply—the beater/bowl relationship, grease-free equipment,andwarmingtheeggsoverhotwaterifchilled.Beat4to5minutesormore,until theyare thickandpaleandabitdropped from thebeater

formsafat,slowlydissolvingribbononthesurface.

Meringue-NutLayerCakes—Dacquoise

Easier to make than conventional cakes, these are always immenselypopular with guests. For 3 layers, 4 by 16 inches and ⅜ inch thick.Preheatovento250°F,andplaceracksinupper-andlower-thirdlevels.Butter the surfaces of 2 baking sheets, dust with flour, and shake offexcess, thenmarkonthemthree4-by-16-inchrectangles.Pulverize1½cupstoastedalmondsorhazelnuts(besuretheyarefresh!)with1½cupssugarandreserve.Beat¾cup(5 to6)eggwhiteswithabigpinchofsaltand¼teaspooncreamoftartartosoftpeaks(seeboxabove),andcontinue beating as you add 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract and¼teaspoon almond extract and sprinkle in 3 tablespoons sugar. Beat tostiff,shiningpeaks.(ThisisnowaSwissmeringue,whichyoucouldalsoturnintoindividualbakedmeringues.).Bybigsprinkles,rapidlyfoldinthepulverizednutsandsugar.Usingapastrybag,fillthe3rectanglesonthebakingsheets.Immediatelysetintheovenandbakeaboutanhour,switching levels every 20 minutes. They should barely color, and aredonewhen you can push them loose. If not usedwithin a few hours,wrapairtightandstoreinthefreezer.

SERVINGSUGGESTION

CHOCOLATE HAZELNUT DACQUOISE. Trimand even the edges of the layerswith a serrated knife, and paint tops of eachwith apricot glaze.Layer with chocolate-ganache or chocolate-meringue filling,bringingitupandaroundthecake.Brushchoppednutsaroundthesidesofthecake,andstrewadecorativelayerofshavedorgratedchocolateontop.Coverandrefrigerateforseveralhours,tosoftenthemeringue and set the filling, but bring back almost to roomtemperaturebeforeserving.

TO WHIP CREAM. For about 2 cups of softly whipped cream—crèmeChantilly.Pour1cupofchilledheavycreamintoametalbowlsetoveralargerbowloficeandwater.Toincorporateasmuchairas

possible,eithersweepalargeballoonwhipdownandaroundandupand into thebowlwithrapidstrokes,orcirculateahand-heldelectricmixerwithvigorousmovements.Thecreamwillnotbeginto thicken for severalminutes. It is donewhen the beater leaveslighttracesonthesurfaceandthecreamholdssoftlywhenlifted.

IMBIBINGSYRUP—FLAVORINGANDMOISTENINGFORLAYERCAKES.Makesabout1cup,enoughfor3cakelayers.Stir⅓cuphotwater into¼cupsugar;whendissolved, stir in½ cup coldwater and3 to 4 tablespoonswhiterum,orangeliqueur,orcognacor1tablespoonpurevanillaextract. Sprinkle over each cake layer before spreading on thefilling.

SUGARBOILINGFORSYRUPSANDCARAMEL.Proportionsarealways⅓cupwaterforevery1cupofsugar.Simple Syrup. For imbibing cake layers, for instance. Stir overheatuntilsugarhascompletelydissolved.TheThreadStage.Used forbutter creamsand Italianmeringue.Whenthesugarhasdissolvedcompletely,coverthepantightlyandboil over high heat—never stirring—untilwhen you rapidly takeupalittleinametalspoonthelastdropstofallfromitstipintoacupofcoldwaterformthreads.Caramel.Continueboilinguntilbubblesarethick, thenuncoverthepan,swirlitslowlybyitshandle,andboiluntilthesyruphasdarkenedintocaramel.Pouratonceintoaseparatepantostopthecooking.To Clean Pans and Spoons. Fill pan with water, add tools, andsimmerafewminutestomeltthesyrup.

FILLINGSANDFROSTINGSHere isanothervast subject; Iamonly touchingon theessentials.The

gloriousbuttrickybuttercream,withitsegg-yolkbase,wasthestandardfrosting and filling of classic pastry, but in modern times the equallydelicious but far simpler ganache, consisting only ofmelted chocolateand heavy cream, has largely taken its placewhen chocolate is calledfor.Again,youwillfindrecipesforalloftheclassicsinothercookbooks,includingsomeofmine.

ItalianMeringue

Tobeusedasafrostingandfillingandasanaccompaniment.Enoughtofrost a 9-inch cake. Beat⅔ cup (4 to 5) eggwhites with¼ teaspooncream of tartar and a pinch of salt to soft peaks and turnmachine toslow.Meanwhile, boil 1½ cups sugar and½ cup water to the threadstage. Beating the eggs at moderate speed, slowly dribble in the hotsyrup.Increasespeedtomoderatelyfastandcontinuebeatinguntil themeringueiscoolandformsstiff,shiningpeaks.

VARIATIONS

MERINGUE BUTTER CREAM FILLING. For a 9-inch cake. Cream 1 stick ofunsaltedbutteruntillightandfluffy,thenfoldin1to1½cupsofItalianmeringue.Seasonwith1teaspoonofwhiterumororangeliqueur,or2teaspoonsofpurevanillaextract.CHOCOLATEMERINGUEFILLING.Fora9-inchcake.Fold4ouncesoftepid,smoothlymeltedsemisweetchocolateintotheprecedingmeringuebuttercream,andflavorwith2tablespoonsdarkrum.

LEFTOVERS.Mayberefrigeratedforseveraldays,orfrozenforseveralmonths.

MERINGUECREAMFILLING.Tofilla9-inchcake.Combine1cupofItalianmeringue with 1 cup of softly whipped cream, and flavor assuggestedforthebuttercream.

ChocolateGanache

Tofrosta9-inchcake.Bring1cupheavycreamtothesimmerina1½-quart saucepan. Lower heat and stir in 8 ounces semisweet chocolatebrokenintobits.Stirbrisklyuntilmeltedandsmooth,thenremovefromheat.Itwillthickenasitcools.

SoftChocolateIcing

For an 8-inch cake. Melt 2 ounces semisweet chocolate with 1 ouncebitter chocolate, a pinch of salt, and 1½ tablespoons rum or strongcoffee (see box below). When smooth and glistening, beat in byspoonfuls 6 tablespoons softened unsalted butter. Stir over cold wateruntilcooledtospreadingconsistency.

Brandy-ButterCakeFilling

For a9-inch cake.Beat1 eggovermoderateheat in a small saucepanwith3tablespoonscognac,2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,½tablespooncornstarch, and 1 cup sugar. Boil slowly 2 to 3 minutes to cook thestarch, remove from heat, and beat in 2 to 4 tablespoons additionalbutter.Thefillingwillthickenasitcools.

ApricotFilling

Enough fora9-inch,3-layercake.Pour thecontentsof three17-ouncecansofunpeeledapricothalvesintoasievesetoverasaucepan.Whenwelldrained,chopapricotsandsetaside.Boil theapricot juicewith3tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,½teaspooncinnamon,⅓cupsugar,andthegratedzestandstrainedjuiceof1lemon.Whenthickandsyrupy,stirinthe chopped apricots and boil several minutes, stirring until thickenoughtoholditsshapesoftlyinaspoon.

TOMELTCHOCOLATE

ChocolateMeltedwithLiquidFlavoring.Alwaysusetheproportionofaminimumof1 tablespoon liquidperevery2ounceschocolate.For1½cups.Breakintosmallpieces6ouncessemisweetchocolateand2ouncesbitterchocolate,placeinasmallpan,andadd¼cupdarkrumorstrongcoffee.Bring3to4incheswatertotheboilinalargerpan,removefrom

heat, cover the chocolate pan, and set it in the hot water. In 4 to 5minutesthechocolateshouldhavemelted;stirtosmoothit.MeltingPlainChocolate.Usethesamesystem,butdonotletanyliquid

nearit.Or,forlargeamounts,coverthechocolatepanandsetina100°Foven,whereitwillmeltsmoothlyinabouthalfanhour.TheMicrowave.Idon’tuseitforchocolate—toorisky.

FRUITGLAZESFORCAKESANDTARTS

ApricotGlaze. Sieve 1 cup of apricot jam, blend with 3 tablespoonssugarand, ifyouwish,3 tablespoonsdarkrum,andboil itdownuntilthe last drops to fall from the spoon are thick and sticky. Use whilewarm.RedCurrantGlaze.Make the sameway,using1¼cupsunsieved red

currantjellyand2tablespoonssugar.

GLACEROYALE—WHITE SUGAR ICINGFORTHETOPSOFCAKESANDCOOKIES.Usingahand-heldelectricmixer,beat1eggwhiteinasmallmixingbowlwith¼teaspoonlemon juice and 1 cup sifted confectioners’ sugar. Beat in 1 teaspoonpure vanilla extract, then slowly add up to about 1 cup moreconfectioners’ sugar, until you have a smooth, thick white paste thatstandsupinpeaks.Thiswilltakeseveralminutesofbeating.Ifnotusedalmostatonce,coverwithaslightlydampenedpapertowel.

COOKIESOnlyonecookie!Butamostusefulone,sinceyoucanserveitnotonlyas a cookie but as a liner for molded desserts, and you can turn thebatterintoasweetcontainer.Makealotwhileyouareatit,sincetheyfreezeperfectly.

Cat’sTongues—LanguesdeChat,Finger-ShapedSugarCookies

Forabout304-by-1¼-inchcookies.Preheatovento425°Fandsetracks

in upper-and lower-middle levels. Butter and flour 2 or more bakingsheets,andinserta⅜-inchroundtubeintoyourpastrybag.Brieflybeat2 “large” eggwhites in a small bowl to blend, and set aside. Using aportableelectricmixer,cream½stickofunsaltedbutterinanotherbowlwith⅓cupsugarandthegratedrindof1lemon.Whensoftandfluffy,start folding in the egg whites rapidly, with a rubber spatula, ½tablespoonatatime.Donotoverdo.Keepthemixturepuffedandfluffy.Then,bybigsprinkles,delicatelyandrapidlyfoldin⅓cupall-purpose

flour.Turnthebatterintothepastrybagandformshapes4inchesby½inchspaced3inchesapartonthebakingsheets.Bake2sheetsatatimefor 6 to 8 minutes, until an ⅛-inch border around the edges of eachcookie has browned. Remove from oven and at once, with a flexible-bladespatula,dislodgecookiesontoarack.Theycrispastheycool.

VARIATIONS

COOKIECUPS.Thesemakecharmingediblecontainers.For8cups3½inches across. Preheat oven to 425°F and set rack in middle orlower-middle level. Lightly oil the outside of 2 large teacups (orbowlsorjarsthatflareout)andturnupsidedown.Butterandflour2 baking sheets, and mark four 5½-inch circles spaced 2 inchesapartoneach.Preparetheprecedingcookiebatterand,onesheetat a time, drop a spoonful of batter in the center of each circle.Spreadoutto1/16-inchthicknesswiththebackofaspoon.Bakeabout5minutes,untilcookieshavebrownedtowithinaninchofthe center. Set baking sheet on the open door of the oven.Immediately and rapidly, remove one cookie at a time with aflexible-bladespatula,turnitupsidedownoveroneoftheteacups,andpressintoplace.Itwillcrispalmostatonce.Proceedwiththesecondcookie,removethefirstfromthecuptoarack,andproceedquickly with the third, then the fourth. Close the oven door tobring temperature back up to 425°F before continuing with thesecondsheet.(Cookieswillkeepadayortwoinaclosedcontainer,orcanbefrozen.)ServingSuggestions:Fillwithicecream,sherbet,freshberries,or

adessertmousse.

TUILES. Rather than being flat, these are curved, like a roof tile.Form the cookies on a rolling pin or bottle, to make a curvedshape. Or wrap them around the handle of a wooden spoon forcylinders, or around a cornucopia shape, and fillwith somethinglikeasweetraspberrymousse.

TO PULVERIZE ALMONDS ANDOTHERNUTS.Grindup to½cupata time inanelectric blender with on-off pulses, or up to ¾ cup in a foodprocessor,alwaysaddingatleast1tablespoonofgranulatedsugartopreventthenutsfromturningoily.

ANOTHERFORMULAWITHGROUNDNUTS:TUILESAUXNOIX—ALMONDORHAZELNUTWAFERS.Useexactlythesameformulaasforthecat’stongues,butfoldintothe creamed butter 1 cup of toasted and ground hazelnuts oralmonds and 2 tablespoons heavy cream. Then proceed toincorporatetheeggwhites,andfinallytheflour.

P.S.BISCUITSI forgot the biscuits! You can’t have a cookbook, however short it is,withoutaproperrecipeforbaking-powderbiscuits,andyoucan’thaveaproper strawberry shortcake without them, either. Just before puttingtheproofsforthisbooktobed,DavidNussbaumandIworkedthisoutinJudithJones’sNortheastKingdomVermontkitchen.

Baking-PowderBiscuits

Whenthe talk isaboutbiscuits Ialways thinkofLeahChase,chefandownerofDookieChase’sinNewOrleans,andthoseshebakedforusonone of our Master Chef TV programs. They were the tenderest, thelightest, and really the best I ever remember eating. This is ourinterpretationofhermethod.Thekey to tenderbiscuits is using light,rapidmovements,sothatyouactivatetheglutenintheflouraslittleaspossible,andtheflouritselfplaysarole.Southernersmaketheirfamousbiscuits with soft wheat (low gluten) flour, and to approach itsequivalentusepartregularall-purposeandpartcakeflouras indicated

here.Forabout1dozen2½-inchbiscuits, baked ina425°Foven.Preheat

the oven. Provide yourselfwith a pastry blender or 2 knives, a pastrysheet either coveredwith parchment paper or buttered and floured asdescribed,andaround2½-inchcookiecutter.Measure into a large mixing bowl either 1½ cups unbleached all-

purposeflourand½cupplainbleachedcakeflouror2cupssoftwheat(pastry)flour,plus1⅔tablespoonsfreshlump-freedouble-actionbakingpowder,¾ teaspoon salt, and1 tablespoon sugar.Mix thoroughly andthen,withthepastryblenderor2knives,rapidlycutin¾cupvegetableshortening (I use Crisco) until the flour-covered fat particles look likesmallpeas.Withawoodenspoonoryourhands,lightlyandrapidly,butinbigdollops,foldin1cupofmilktomakearough,somewhatsticky,dough—donotattemptasmoothmixtureatthispoint.Turnthedoughoutontoawell-flouredworksurfaceand,asagentle

typeofkneading,liftthefarsideupoverontothenearside,patitoutgentlyintoafatcircle,sprinkleonalittleflourasnecessary,thenlifttheleftsideovertheright,therightovertheleft,andsoforth,giving6foldsin all. Finally spread and pat the dough into a reasonably smoothrectangle¾inchthick.Cutoutbiscuitcirclesandplacethemclosetogether,butnottouching,

on thepastry sheet.Gentlygather the scraps together andgive2or3folds as before, pat out again into a rectangle, cut out the circles andplacethemonthebakingsheet,andcontinueuntilthedoughisusedup.Finally, pressing the sides of each biscuit shape with your fingers allaround,plumpthemupslightly.Setinthemiddleorlower-middleofthepreheatedovenandbakefor15to20minutes,oruntilcookedthroughandslightlybrowned.Servewarmoratroomtemperature.(Leftovers,ifany,arebestfrozen,

thensetfromfreezerforafewminutesintoa350°Foven.)

BAKINGPOWDERinanopenedcanlosesitsstrengthafterabout6months,soalways test it by stirring a teaspoonful into½ cup of hot water. If itdoesn’tbubbleup ina livelyway, throw itout.Beforeyouusebaking

powder,besuretosmoothoutanylumps.

VARIATION

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE.Use2 tablespoonssugar rather than1 in thedough, and youmay prefer to form it into a single large cake 1inch high. Plan on about 2 cups of fresh ripe strawberries perserving.Leavingonewholebigfineberryfordecoration,halveorquartertherest,tossinabowlwithdropsoffreshlemonjuiceanda good teaspoon or so of sugar for each quart. Let stand for 10minutesormore,allowingthejuicestoexude.Tossagainandaddalittlemorelemonandsugarifneeded.Whenit’stimefordessert,split thebiscuits (orsingle largecake) inhalfhorizontally, spoonstrawberries and their juices over the bottom halves, set on thetops, crownwithagenerousdollopof sweetenedwhippedcream(see box, below), center the reserved berry on top, and proudlyserve. You may wish to pass around extra whipped creamseparately.

SWEETENEDWHIPPEDCREAM.For2cups,whip1cupheavycreamorwhippingcream as directed in the box. Just before serving, sift on ½ cup ofconfectioners’sugarandfolditinwithalargerubberspatula,adding,ifyouwish,½teaspoonofpurevanillaextract.

KitchenEquipmentandDefinitions

KITCHENEQUIPMENT

OvalCasseroles

Oval casserolesaremorepractical than roundonesas theycanholdachickenoraroastofmeataswellasasteworsoup.Agoodpairwouldbethe2-quartsizeabout6by8inchesacrossand3½incheshigh;anda7-to8-quartsizeabout9by12inchesacrossand6incheshigh.

Saucepans

Saucepansinarangeofsizesareessential.Onewithametalhandlecanalsobesetintheoven.

BakingDishes

Roundandovalbakingdishescanbeusedforroastingchicken,duck,ormeats,orcandoubleasgratindishes.

Chef’sSkilletandSautéPan

A chef’s skillet, poêle, has sloping sides and is used for browning andtossingsmallpiecesof food likemushroomsorchicken livers; the longhandle makes it easy to toss rather than turn the food. A sauté pan,sautoir,hasstraightsidesandisusedforsautéingsmallsteaks,liver,orveal scallops, or foods like chicken that are browned then covered tofinishtheircookinginthesautépan.BESIDESTHEUSUALARRAYOFPOTS,ROASTERS,VEGETABLEPEELERS,SPOONS,ANDSPATULAS,HEREARESOMEUSEFULOBJECTSWHICHMAKECOOKINGEASIER:

KnivesandSharpeningSteel

A knife should be as sharp as a razor or it mashes and bruises foodratherthanchoppingorcuttingit.Itcanbeconsideredsharpifjusttheweightofit,drawnacrossatomato,slitstheskin.Noknifewillholdarazor-edge for long. The essential point is that it take an edge, andquickly.Plainrustablesteelistheeasiesttosharpenbutdiscolorationisan annoying problem. Good stainless steel knives are available incookware and cutlery shops, and probably the best way to test theirquality is to buy a small one and try it out. The French chef’s knives,

picturedhere,arethemostusefulgeneral-purposeshapesforchopping,mincing, and paring. If you cannot find good knives, consult yourbutcheroraprofessionallytrainedchef.Knivesshouldbewashedseparatelyandbyhandassoonasyouhavefinishedusingthem.Tarnishedbladesarecleanedeasilywithsteelwooland scouring powder. A magnetic holder screwed to the wall is apracticalwayofkeepingknivesalwayswithin reachand isolated fromother objects that could dull and dent the blades by knocking againstthem.

WoodenSpatulasandRubberScrapers

Awoodenspatulaismorepracticalforstirringthanawoodenspoon;itsflatsurfacesareeasilyscrapedoffonthesideofapanorbowl.Youwillusually find wooden spatulas only at stores specializing in Frenchimports.Therubberspatula,whichcanbeboughtalmostanywhere, isindispensable for scraping sauces out of bowls and pans, for stirring,folding,creaming,andsmearing.

WireWhipsorWhisks

Wirewhips, orwhisks, arewonderful for beating eggs, sauces, cannedsoups,andforgeneralmixing.Theyareeasierthantherotaryeggbeater

becauseyouuseonehandonly.Whisksrangefromminutetogigantic,andthebestselectionsareinrestaurant-supplyhouses.Youshouldhaveseveralsizesincludingtheballoonwhipforbeatingeggwhitesatthefarleft.

BulbBasterandPoultryShears

Thebulbbasterisparticularlygoodforbastingmeatsorvegetablesinacasserole,andfordegreasingroastsaswellasbastingthem.Someplasticmodels collapse in very hot fat; a metal tube-end is usually moresatisfactory. Poultry shears are a great help in disjointing broilers andfryers;regularsteelismorepracticalthanstainless,astheshearscanbesharpenedmoresatisfactorily.

TheVegetableMill(orFoodMill)andGarlicPress

Twowonderful inventions, thevegetablemilland thegarlicpress.Thevegetable mill purées soups, sauces, vegetables, fruits, raw fish, ormoussemixtures.Thebesttypehas3removabledisksabout5½inchesindiameter,oneforfine,oneformedium,andoneforcoarsepuréeing.Thegarlicpresswillpuréeawhole,unpeeledcloveofgarlic,orpiecesofonion.

TheFoodProcessor

This marvelous machine came into our kitchens in the mid-seventies.Theprocessorhasrevolutionizedcooking,makingchild’splayofsomeofthemost complicated dishes of the haute cuisine—mousses inminutes.Besides all kinds of rapid slicing, chopping, puréeing, and the like, itmakes a fine pie crust dough, mayonnaise, and many of the yeastdoughs.Noseriouscookshouldbewithoutafoodprocessor,especiallysincerespectablebudgetmodelscanbeboughtveryreasonably.

MortarandPestle

Small mortars of wood or porcelain are useful for grinding herbs,poundingnuts, and the like. The largemortars are ofmarble, and areused for pounding or puréeing shellfish, forcemeats, and so on. Theelectricblender,meatgrinder,andfoodmilltaketheplaceofamortarandpestleinmanyinstances.

Heavy-DutyElectricMixer

1. Whip,foreggs2. DoughHook3. FlatBeater,forheavybatters,groundmeat,etc.

Aheavy-dutyelectricmixermakes lightworkofheavymeatmixtures,fruit cake batters, and yeast doughs as well as beating egg whitesbeautifully and effortlessly. Its efficient whip not only revolves aboutitself, but circulates around theproperlydesignedbowl, keepingall ofthe mass of egg whites in motion all of the time. Other usefulattachments include a meat grinder with sausage-stuffing horn and ahot-waterjackwhichattachestothebottomofthestainlesssteelbowl.It’sexpensive,but solidlybuiltanda life-longaid toanyonewhodoeslotsofcooking.

DEFINITIONSBASTE,arroser:Tospoonmeltedbutter,fat,orliquidoverfoods.

BEAT, fouetter:Tomix foodsor liquids thoroughlyandvigorouslywithaspoon,fork,orwhip,oranelectricbeater.Whenyoubeat,trainyourselftouseyourlower-armandwristmuscles;ifyoubeatfromyourshoulderyouwilltirequickly.

BLANCH,blanchir:Toplungefoodintoboilingwaterandtoboil ituntil ithas softened, or wilted, or is partially or fully cooked. Food is alsoblanchedtoremovetoostrongataste,suchasforcabbageoronions,orthesalty,smokytasteofbacon.

BLEND,mélanger: Tomix foods together in a less vigorous way than bybeating,usuallywithafork,spoon,orspatula.

BOIL,boullir:Liquidistechnicallyattheboilwhenit isseething,rolling,andsendingupbubbles.Butinpracticethereareslow,medium,andfastboils.Avery slowboil,when the liquid ishardlymoving except for abubble at one point, is called to simmer,mijoter. An even slower boilwithnobubble,onlythebarestmovementonthesurfaceoftheliquid,iscalled“toshiver,”frémir,andisusedforpoachingfishorotherdelicatefoods.

BRAISE, brasier: To brown foods in fat, then cook them in a coveredcasserolewithasmallamountofliquid.Wehavealsousedthetermforvegetablescookedinbutterinacoveredcasserole,asthereisnoEnglishequivalentforétuver.

COATASPOON,napperlacuillère:Thistermisusedtoindicatethethicknessofasauce,anditseemstheonlywaytodescribeit.Aspoondippedintoacreamsoupandwithdrawnwouldbecoatedwithathinfilmofsoup.Dipped into a sauce destined to cover food, the spoon would emergewithafairlythickcoating.

DEGLAZE,déglacer: After meat has been roasted or sautéed, and the pandegreased,liquidispouredintothepanandalltheflavorfulcoagulatedcookingjuicesarescrapedintoitasitsimmers.Thisisanimportantstepin the preparation of all meat sauces from the simplest to the mostelaborate,forthedeglazebecomespartofthesauce,incorporatingintoit some of the flavor of the meat. Thus sauce andmeat are a logicalcomplementtoeachother.

DEGREASE,dégrassier: To remove accumulated fat from the surface of hotliquids.

Sauces,Soups,andStocks

Toremoveaccumulated fat fromthesurfaceofa sauce, soup,or stockwhich is simmering, use a long-handled spoon and draw it over thesurface,dippingupathinlayeroffat.It isnotnecessarytoremoveallthefatatthistime.Whenthecookingisdone,removeallthefat.Iftheliquidisstillhot,letitsettlefor5minutessothefatwillrisetothesurface.Thenspoonitoff,tippingthepotorkettlesothataheavierfatdepositwillcollectatonesideandcanmoreeasilyberemoved.Whenyouhavetakenupasmuch as you can—it is never a quick process—draw strips of papertowels over the surface until the last floating fat globules have beenblottedup.It iseasier,ofcourse,tochilltheliquid,forthenthefatcongealsonthesurfaceandcanbescrapedoff.

Roasts

Toremovefatfromapanwhilethemeatisstillroasting,tiltthepanandscoopoutthefatwhichcollectsinthecorner.Useabulbbasterorabigspoon. It isnevernecessary to removeall the fat at this time, just theexcess. This degreasing should be done quickly, so your ovenwill notcool. If you take a long timeover it, adda fewextraminutes to yourtotalroastingfigure.Aftertheroasthasbeentakenfromthepan,tiltthepan,thenwithaspoonorabulbbasterremovethefatthatcollectsinonecorner,butdonottakeupthebrownedjuices,asthesewillgointoyoursauce.Usuallyatablespoonortwooffatisleftinthepan;itwillgivebodyandflavortothesauce.Anothermethod—andthiscanbeusefulifyouhavelotsofjuice—istoplacea trayful of ice cubes in a sieve linedwith2or3 thicknessesofdampcheeseclothandsetoverasaucepan.Pourthefatandjuicesovertheicecubes;mostofthefatwillcollectandcongealontheice.Assomeof the icewillmelt into the saucepan, rapidly boil down the juices toconcentratetheirflavor.

Casseroles

For stews, daubes, and other foods which cook in a casserole, tip thecasseroleandthefatwillcollectatoneside.Spoonitoff,orsuckitupwithabulbbaster.Orstrainoffallthesauceintoapan,byplacingthecasserolecoveraskewandholdingthecasseroleinbothhandswithyourthumbs clamped to the cover while you pour out the liquid. Thendegreasethesauceinthepan,andreturnthesaucetothecasserole.Oruseadegreasingpitcherintowhichyoupourthehotmeatjuices,letthefatrisetothesurface,thenpouroutclearjuices—thespoutopeningisatthebottomofthepitcher;stopwhenfatappearsinthespout.

DICE,couperendés:Tocutfoodintocubestheshapeofdice,usuallyabout⅛inch.

FOLD, incorporer: To blend a fragilemixture, such as beaten eggwhites,delicatelyintoaheaviermixture,suchasasoufflébase.Thisisdescribedin the cake section. To fold also means to mix delicately withoutbreakingormashing,suchas foldingcookedartichokeheartsorbrainsintoasauce.

GRATINÉ:Tobrownthetopofasauceddish,usuallyunderahotbroiler.Asprinklingofbreadcrumbsorgratedcheese,anddotsofbutter,helptoformalightbrowncovering(gratin)overthesauce.

MACERATE,macérer;MARINATE,mariner:Toplacefoodsinaliquidsotheywillabsorb flavor, or become more tender. Macerate is the term usuallyreserved for fruits, such as: cherries macerated in sugar and alcohol.Marinateisusedformeats:beefmarinatedinredwine.Amarinadeisapickle, brine, or souse, or a mixture of wine or vinegar, oil, andcondiments.

MINCE,hacher:Tochopfoodsveryfine.

NAP,napper:Tocoverfoodwithasaucewhichisthickenoughtoadhere,butsuppleenoughsothattheoutlinesofthefoodarepreserved.

POACH, pocher: Food submerged and cooked in a liquid that is barelysimmeringorshivering.

PURÉE, réduire en purée: To render solid foods into a mash, such asapplesauceormashedpotatoes.Thismaybedone inamortar,ameatgrinder,afoodmill,anelectricblender,orthroughasieve.

REDUCE, réduire: To boil down a liquid, reducing it in quantity, andconcentratingitstaste.Thisisamostimportantstepinsaucemaking.

REFRESH,rafraîchir:Toplungehotfoodintocoldwaterinordertocoolitquicklyandstopthecookingprocess,ortowashitoff.

SAUTÉ,sauter:Tocookandbrownfoodinaverysmallquantityofveryhotfat,usuallyinanopenskillet.Youmaysautéfoodmerelytobrownit,asyoubrownthebeefforastew.Oryoumaysautéuntilthefoodiscookedthrough,as forslicesof liver.Sautéing isoneof themost importantoftheprimarycookingtechniques,anditisoftenbadlydonebecauseoneofthefollowingpointshasnotbeenobserved:1.Thesautéingfatmustbeveryhot,almostsmoking,beforethefood

goesintothepan,otherwisetherewillbenosealing-inofjuices,andnobrowning.Thesautéingmediummaybefat,oil,orbutterandoil.Plainbuttercannotbeheatedtotherequiredtemperaturewithoutburning,soit must either be fortified with oil or be clarified—rid of it’s milkyresidueasdescribedhere.2. The foodmust be absolutely dry. It if is damp, a layer of steam

develops between the food and the fat preventing the browning andsearingprocess.3. The pan must not be crowded. Enough air space must be left

betweeneachpieceof foodor itwill steamrather thanbrown,and itsjuiceswillescapeandburn.

TOSS,fairesauter: Insteadofturningfoodwithaspoonoraspatula,youcanmakeitflipoverbytossingthepan.Theclassicexampleistossingapancakesoitflipsoverinmid-air.Buttossingisalsoausefultechniqueforcookingvegetables,asatossisoftenlessbruisingthanaturn.Ifyouare cooking in a covered casserole, grasp it in both hands with yourthumbs clamped to the cover. Toss the pan with an up-and-down,slightly jerky, circularmotion. The contentswill flip over and change

cooking levels.Foranopensaucepanuse thesamemovement,holdingthehandlewithbothhands, thumbsup.Aback-and-forth slide isusedforaskillet.Give itaveryslightupward jerk justasyoudrawitbacktowardyou.

ANOTEABOUTTHEAUTHOR

JuliaChildwasborninPasadena,California.ShegraduatedfromSmithCollege and worked for the OSS during World War II in Ceylon andChina.Afterward sheandherhusband,Paul, lived inParis,where shestudiedat theCordonBleu,and taughtcookingwithSimoneBeckandLouisetteBertholle,withwhomshewrote the firstvolumeofMasteringtheArtofFrenchCooking(1961).In 1963 Boston’s WGBH launched the French Chef television series,

which earnedher thePeabodyAward in1965andanEmmy in1966.Hersubsequentpublictelevisionshows—JuliaChild&Company(1978),JuliaChild&MoreCompany(1980),CookingwithMasterChefs(1993),InJulia’sKitchenwithMasterChefs(1995),BakingwithJulia(1996),andherone-on-onecollaborationwithJacquesPépin,JuliaandJacquesCookingat Home (1999)—have all been accompanied by books of the samenames.JuliaChilddiedinSantaBarbara,California,inAugust2004.

THISISABORZOIBOOK

PUBLISHEDBYALFREDA.KNOPF

Copyright©2000byJuliaChild

AllrightsreservedunderInternationalandPan-AmericanCopyrightConventions.PublishedintheUnitedStatesbyAlfredA.Knopf,adivisionofRandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork,and

simultaneouslyinCanadabyRandomHouseofCanadaLimited,Toronto.DistributedbyRandomHouse,Inc.,NewYork.

www.aaknopf.com

Knopf,BorzoiBooks,andthecolophonareregisteredtrademarksofRandomHouse,Inc.CompaniontothetelevisionspecialproducedbyALaCarteCommunications

LibraryofCongressCataloging-in-PublicationDataChild,Julia.

Julia’skitchenwisdom:essentialtechniquesandrecipesfromalifetimeofcooking/byJuliaChildwithDavidNussbaum.

p.cm.eISBN:978-0-30759353-5

1.Cookery.I.Nussbaum,David.II.Title.TX651.C5232000

641.5—dc2100-062928

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