amelia doll tunic

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© Kristin Maw 2013 1 Amelia doll tunic

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Free knitting doll pattern.

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  • Kristin Maw 2013 1

    Ameliadoll tunic

  • YARN:

    DK weight yarn (less than 50 grams is needed).

    The gray tunic on the front is made from Sandnesgarn Perfect and the blue cardigan is made from Debbie Bliss Cashmerino DK.

    The texture and drape of the 2 different yarns make the finished garments look quite different, even though the same basic pattern was used.

    NEEDLES:

    4mm needles, or whatever size you require for the proper gauge. You may use straight needles or a circular needle to knit the shoulders and body. The sleeves are knit with double pointed needles, 2 circular needles or magic loop.

    The body and the shoulders of the tunic are knit back and forth and the sleeves are knit in the round.

    GAUGE:

    22 stitches over 10cm (4 inches).

    OTHER SUPPLIES:

    -stitch markers-darning needle-4 small buttons

    SIZE:

    The tunic is shown on a 35cm (14) doll. The finished circumference at the armpit is 26cm (10.5) when buttoned.

    You can easily make smaller or larger tunics by using different needles and/or yarn to fit dolls of various sizes. Because the tunic is knit from the top down, it is also simple to check sizing as you go, and add or subtract increase rows as required.

    Kristin Maw 2013 2

    Amelias tunic is knit seamlessly, from the top down, in DK weight yarn. It can button up the back to look like a pullover, or up the front as a cardigan. The tunic can be made with long or short sleeves and can be easily resized to fit different types and sizes of dolls.

  • KNITTING STARTS AT THE NECK:

    * You have the choice of 2 different neck bands: k1p1 ribbing (shown on the blue tunic), or seed stitch (shown on the grey tunic). Choose whichever you prefer. The k1p1 ribbing is a bit more elastic. Row 2 is the only row that changes.

    1. Row 1: Cast on 38 stitches using long tail cast on.

    2. Row 2: Choose 1:

    (k1p1 RIBBING OPTION): (k1p1) to end, placing stitch markers after the 7th, 8th, 13th, 14th, 24th, 25th, 30th and 31st stitches. -OR-

    (SEED STITCH OPTION): (p1k1) to end, placing stitch markers after the 7th, 8th, 13th, 14th, 24th, 25th, 30th and 31st stitches.

    *See Figure 2 on page 6 for diagram showing set up of stitch markers.

    3. Row 3: k1; p1; yo; p2tog; (k1p1) to end of row (this row creates the first buttonhole).

    4. Row 4: (INCREASE ROW): (p1k1)x2; k to first marker; m1r; sm; k1; sm; m1L; k to third marker; m1R; sm; k1; sm; m1L; k to 5th marker; m1r; sm; k1; sm; m1L; k to 7th marker; m1r; sm; k1; sm; m1L; k until 4 stitches left on needle; (p1k1)x2 (46 stitches).

    5. Row 5: (PURL ROW): (k1p1)x2; p to last 4 stitches; (k1p1)x2

    6. Rows 6 to 12: Repeat the INCREASE and PURL rows as set out for rows 4 and 5 (at the end of row 12 you will have 78 stitches).

    7. Row 13: (BUTTONHOLE ROW): k1, p1, yo, p2tog; purl to last 4 stitches; (k1p1)x2

    8. Row 14: (INCREASE ROW)

    9. Row 15: (PURL ROW)10. Row 16: (INCREASE ROW) (you will now

    have 94 stitches).11. Row 17: (PURL ROW), removing all stitch

    markers as you go.

    *The increases for the shoulder shaping are now complete. If you are unsure of the fit, put all of the stitches on waste yarn and put the tunic over your dolls shoulders. If it seems too small, continue with a few more INCREASE and PURL rows until you are satisfied. Make sure you end with a PURL row.

    Figure 1 - Increases Complete

    Kristin Maw 2013 3

  • JOINING THE BODY AND SEPARATING THE SLEEVES:

    12. Row 18: (p1k1)x2; (kfb; k2)x3; kfb; k1; put the next 19 stitches on a piece of waste yarn; k1; (kfb; k2)x8; k1; put the next 19 stitches on a piece of waste yarn; (kfb; k2)x3; kfb; k1; (p1k1)x2 (You will now have 72 stitches on the needle. The stitches on waste yarn will be used later for the sleeves).

    13. Row 19: (PURL ROW): (k1p1)x2; p to last 4 stitches; (k1p1)x2

    14. Row 20: (KNIT ROW): (p1k1)x2; k to last 4 stitches; (p1k1)x2

    15. Row 21: (PURL ROW)16. Row 22: (KNIT ROW)17. Row 23: (BUTTONHOLE ROW): k1, p1,

    yo, p2tog; purl to last 4 stitches; (k1p1)x218. Rows 24 to 32: Repeat the KNIT and

    PURL rows as set out for rows 20 and 21.19. Row 33: (BUTTONHOLE ROW): k1, p1,

    yo, p2tog; purl to last 4 stitches; (k1p1)x220. Row 34: (KNIT ROW)21. Row 35: (PURL ROW)22. Row 36: (KNIT ROW)

    *If you would like a longer tunic, continue knitting a few more PURL and KNIT rows until you are satisfied. Add buttonhole rows as required and make sure you end with a KNIT row.

    23. Row 37: (k1p1) to end24. Row 38: (p1k1) to end25. Row 39: (k1p1) to end26. Row 40: (p1k1) to end27. Cast off. LONG SLEEVES:

    *Use double pointed needles, 2 circular needles or magic loop.

    1. Round 1: Starting at the middle of the underarm, pick up 2 stitches; k across the 19 stitches on waste yarn; pick up 2 more stitches under the arm (you will have 23 stitches on the needles and are back at the beginning of the round). Join to knit in the round.

    2. Rounds 2 to 10: k

    *If you would like longer sleeves, add more knit rounds here.

    3. Round 11: k21; k2tog (you will now have 22 stitches on the needles).

    4. Round 12: (k1p1)x115. Round 13: (p1k1)x116. Round 14: (k1p1)x117. Cast off8. Repeat for second sleeve.

    SHORT SLEEVES:

    *Use double pointed needles, 2 circular needles or magic loop.

    1. Round 1: Starting at the middle of underarm, pick up 2 stitches; [(p1k1)x4; p1; k2tog; (p1k1)x4] across the 19 stitches on waste yarn; pick up 2 more stitches under the arm (you will have 22 stitches on the needles and are back at the beginning of the round). Join to knit in the round.

    2. Round 2: k2tog; (p1k1)x9; p2tog (you will have 20 stitches on the needles).

    3. Cast off. If the doll has large hands, you may want to do a sewn cast off for a more elastic edge.

    4. Repeat for second sleeve.

    FINISHING UP

    Weave in all yarn ends and sew on the buttons. You are done!

    Kristin Maw 2013 4

  • Kristin Maw 2013 5

  • Kristin Maw 2013 6

    Figure 2 - Set up for Row 2

    O = stitch

    I = stitch marker

    OOOOOOO I O I OOOOO I O I OOOOOOOOOO I O I OOOOO I O I OOOOOOO

    TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS

    K or k = knit

    k2tog = decrease 1 by knitting 2 stitches together

    kfb = increase by knitting into the front then into the back of the stitch

    m1r = increase using make 1 to the right

    m1L = increase using make 1 to the left

    P or p = purl

    p2tog = decrease 1 by purling 2 stitches together

    sm = slip marker

    NOTE: There are excellent tutorials on Knitty.com for the different increases, decreases and sewn cast off.

    You may not reproduce this pattern, in whole or in part, or distribute copies in any format, or sell it. You may not put the pattern on a website where it can be downloaded by others. You may sell your finished item or a doll wearing the finished item, provided that Kristin Maw of Jaybird Finnigan is referenced in the listing as the creator of the pattern.