american world traveler winter 2015-16 issue

M e x i c o R i c k S t e v e s ’ E u r o p e T h a i l a n d C r u i s e N e w sT

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Winter/Spring 2015-16

Traveler

Sichuan

W O R L D

C h i n aC o m e W i t h U s & S e e T h e W o r l d !

ISSUE

50th ‘Golden’

Published by

American World

Traveler

Tel.: (514) 738-8232www.americanworldtraveller.com

Email: [email protected]

Publisher Michael MorcosEditor-in-chief Greg JamesContributing Editor David J. CoxGraphic Artist Al CheongAdvertising Leo SantiniMarketing Tania TassoneDistribution Royce Dillon

Contributors: Ruth Atherly, Natalie Ayotte, David J. Cox, Susan Campbell, Cherie DeLory, Steve Gillick, Jennifer Merrick, Ron Paquet,Johanna Read & Rick Steves.

Front Cover Photo by Michael Morcos:Sichuan, China

Disclaimer: Canadian World Traveller has made everyeffort to verify that the information provided in this pub-lication is as accurate as possible. However, we acceptno responsibility for any loss, injury, or inconveniencesustained by anyone resulting from the information con-tained herein nor for any information provided by ouradvertisers.

Welcome to

American World Traveler

In this issue we start our worldwide tour in hot and spicySichuan, China. In Asia we explore the fabulous and lesstravelled region of Isan, Thailand, head to Vietnam for a

wonderful bike ride and then jet of to the worldly city ofTokyo.

In the Americas we go on a dream road trip from San Diegoto San Francisco, head to Texas for some world class birdingbefore heading further south to Cancun for some snorkellingwith Whale-Sharks and finely to Whistler for a luxury stay atthe Fairmount Resort.

In Europe we visit the beautiful and historic Spanish island ofMallorca, we then head to Scotland for a round or two beforejoining Rick Steves for a night-time tour of the eternal city ofRome. While in the Mediterranean we explore the many facesof Istanbul and then travel the span of intriguing Israel.

In our Cruising section we jet to three continents, from NewYork we cruise on the futuristic new Anthem of the seas, sailaround the Galapagos and finally through south-east Asiawith G Adventures.

Happy Travels!

NO-JET-LAGTM

Tel.: 514-933-3302 - Fax : 514-933-8311Toll-free : 1-888-359-9355 - Email : [email protected]

Why spend days recovering when you can take thishomeopathic remedy during the flight and feelfresher upon arrival at your destination. 32 tablets

in each packet - sufficient for 45 hours flying time.

www.nojetlag.com

American World Traveler

C o n t e n t s

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Rick Steves’ Europe

Isan,Thailand

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M c A l l e n , Te x a s

Stay & Play

Vietnam

G o o d t o G o !

Great Travel Gear & Gadgets

C a n c u n

The Mediterranean Pearl

C a l i f o r n i a

I s r a e lClear Blue Skies

Turkish Airlines

CC rr uu ii ss eeSS ee cc tt ii oo nn

Cuisine, History, Culture...and Pandas too!

S ichuan Ch ina

American World Traveler Winter/Spring 2016

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A r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y M i c h a e l M o r c o s

Sichuan Province is one of thelargest provinces in China, witha generous mix of plains, hills,

mountains and plateaus that offer land-scapes any artist would love. Located insouthwest part of the country, it is a gate-way to Tibet, and its capital city, Chengdu,is a cultural and industrial center famousfor its luxurious satins, brocades, and lac-quer products since the 13th century.

Abundant natural beauty can be foundwithin the stunning landscapes thatinclude ravines, rivers, hot springs, water-falls and limestone caves. Some localareas have been developed into scenicsites for tourism, including the Lizhuangancient city, Xingwen Stone Sea andTianquan Cave, and the mountains hostmore than 50 kinds of rare animals,including giant pandas that visitors cansee at the Chengdu Panda Breeding andResearch Center (one of the most impor-tant research centers in the world for theconservation of giant pandas).

There is a rich, textured history and culturethat can be found here, as Sichuan is oneof the birthplaces of the Chinese nationand plays an important role in China'shistory. As early as 25,000 years ago, civi-lization appeared here and has left thisarea abundant in historical heritage.

The City of Yibin is a fine example of thishistorical significance. Among manyattractions there lies ancient buildings andstructures that date back through the ages.

Natural wonders abound with several hotsprings near Yibin, including the BambooSea (acres and acres of Bamboo plants)and the Xingwen Stone Forest.

The Cuiping Mountain in the centre of thecity provides wonderful views of Yibin fromall angles. Liubei Pond Park is SichuanProvince’s most famous scenic spots and isfamous for inspiring the great calligrapherHuang Tingjian. This tranquil park alsohas live actors who dress in ancient cloth-ing and go about life as if we were in oldChina. An amazing glimpse into the pastof this ancient culture!

Yibin is also home to the WuliangyeGroup who produce a very popularnational alcoholic drink. Their headquar-ters is so large, it is like a city within a city!The company is important to the area asthey are the biggest employer in town,and the locals are proud of the connec-tion.

The profound cultural heritage of the citymakes it one of the most famous historicaland cultural cities in China. Bamboo craft-work and bamboo related foods are pop-ular, and offer tourists a sample of thelocal cuisine and an opportunity to pur-chase unique gifts.

Lizhuang is another ancient city by theYangtze River, where visitors are treated toa trip back through time juxtaposed withluxurious buildings in the old street ofLizhuang Town. For visitors, there is theXuanluo Hall (Hall of Spiral), where apalace named Wenchang Hall lies waitingto be explored. The main hall of thispalace is a wooden pavilion where thearchitect made full use of the principle ofmechanics, creating a magical spiral-shaped hall. Incredible feat of engineer-ing.

Life moves very slowly here, but there area great number of markets where the

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Sichuan local cuisine, known worldwide, isavailable, inexpensive and delicious.As in most of China, we were treated tocolourful shows, costumes, music anddance, but the Xingwen Miao Minority FolkResidence is one of the best spots for this.The Miao are one of the biggest minoritygroups in China and in their new complexthey treat visitors to song, dance and artexhibitions. With the intricate moves andfabulous costumes, it is easy to under-stand how China can produce such amaz-ing shows at events like the Olympicswhen local shows are this good!

The Xingwen Stone Sea is a world famousscenic spot with amazing features, includ-ing the longest natural scenic viewinglimestone cave in China called theTianquan Cave, which holds a record inspace and length. With stone flowers,stone bamboo, stone pillars and more,the cave system has features that willplease every cave fan, including myfavourite, an underground river! The sur-face stone sea extends 10 kms from eastto west, and 4 kms from South to Northwith wonderful shapes and imposing fea-tures. There are stone peaks to the southand a dense stone forest covers the westand north, with the great ‘Peak ofCouples’, standing just like a couple withhand in hand.

Another interesting feature of the park is agigantic sinkhole, the largest in the world!The sinkhole is about 650m long and208m deep!

These caves are among the best I haveever visited, at times imposing, and othertimes awe-inspiring. The park has made iteasy to walk around as everything is welllit and the paths are easy to walk.

The Bamboo Sea of Southern Sichuan isone of the largest bamboo forests inChina and has been among the mostwell-known tourist destinations for visitors.It is a natural wonderland created and, aplace that is far more mysterious than themundane world of everyday tourism. Thecore area holds over 5000 hectares ofhuge and upright bamboo shelters ridges,peaks and hills stretching all around thearea. It looks like a vast green sea with abamboo forest containing further treas-ures, including the Rainbow Waterfall andthe Fairy Lake among others. TheWaterfall is a towering 200 meters highand as the sun shines on the waterfall,rainbows are often seen. The Fairy Lakeis the ideal location for tourists to enjoybamboo rafting.

A final spot on this journey throughSichuan Province was a once in a lifetimetrip to the Chengdu Panda Bear ResearchCenter and it is the world’s only place thatfocuses entirely on the critically endan-gered giant Panda. This is one of thehighlights in the city of Chengdu, Sichuan,as well as in China, and was a true high-light of the trip. The place is enormousand there is ample space for the animals– a rarity in the zoo world. The animalswere very active while we were there, andthe Panda cubs were absolutely adorable.We were very lucky, as the Panda handlershad brought the young cubs out for us.Though we were not allowed to touchthem, we were allowed to take photos andvideos of them.

They also have a cinema showing docu-mentaries of pandas, offering a deeperunderstanding of these interesting crea-tures.

www.tourismchina.org

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Though our summers here inMontreal are glorious, there is areally good reason to go to

Cancun in the middle of August if youlove marine life, and are seeking the thrillof a lifetime. That’s the only time of yearyou are virtually guaranteed to be able toencounter and snorkel the world’s biggestfish- whale sharks! No worries, they don’teat humans. In fact they are strictly filterfeeding plankton eaters, and though theycan grow to the size of a small school bus(40 ft.,) they are perfectly gentle. You justneed to stay out of the way of their tail, asit’s a powerful propeller that can send youreeling!

So What’s A Whale Shark?

Not much is known about these giants ofthe deep; in fact, scientists have been busythe last few years trying to figure out whatmakes them tick. They have rarely beenseen mating and they don’t travel in pods.They are very solitary creatures, andthough of the shark family they are morethe size of whales and look like giant cat-fish without the whiskers. And they only gettogether when the underwater dinner bellrings and there is a great feast of theirfavorite food- plankton, krill and tuna eggsas there is each year in the summer just offCancun.

Choose The Right Operator

This was my second whale shark swim. Ienjoyed it so much a few years ago I had toreturn, and this time I also brought along afellow female travel writer friend. Thoughshe’s not much of a water person, thisexperience is easy. You must wear a lifejacket anyway, and the saltwater helps youfloat- it’s simply a matter of keeping up tothe animals. But it’s very important tochoose a reputable tour operator, as it’snot highly regulated. The adventure takesplace in international waters, and thoughthere are safety and behavior guidelinesand even laws, they are difficult to enforce.

I relied on Amstar DMC to steer us rightand book the ideal operator for it. They aremy favorite most trusted tour and transfercompany in Mexico, and once again theycame through big time. They chose theCancun Adventures Company and our timewith them was outstanding. They only takevery small groups, and our guide- who alsodoubled as our photographer and videog-rapher- was extremely well informed aboutthe animals and highly concerned with oursafety. Some operators take huge groups oftourists and just set them loose on thewhale sharks, and even chase them withboats. So if you go, please ensure that youbook with a decent outfit.

A Surreal Encounter

The entire activity takes about 8 hours. Youleave early from Cancun, and sometimes ittakes awhile to find the whale sharks, butwhen you do they are typically all togetherin one spot. Snorkeling with them is surre-al- a little scary at first- but then magical.We even had a baby whale shark swimright up to the our boat to check it out!Mind you, they don’t seem to be as intelli-gent as whales or dolphins – you don’t geta sense of connection with them. I assumethey just think we are weird looking fish,and basically their biggest concern is tak-ing in as much food as possible while theyare there. But they are gentle and easygoing, and will only dive deep if you areannoying them or if they don’t like yoursmell! You are asked to wear as few chem-icals as possible- deodorant, sunscreeneven shampoo bothers their eyes and theywill take off if they become irritated by it.

After the epic adventure you stop at gor-geous Isla Mujeres for lunch (the Island ofWomen) just off Cancun at a breathtakingbeach and view the photos and videos theytook which you will surely want to purchasefor posterity. Though you are welcome totake your own photos as well.

The Ideal Stay-

Secrets Playa Mujeres

Ten minutes north of the main tourist stripof Cancun is a brand new resort that wasideal for our glorious girls getaway, andalso as a base to do the whale sharkadventure. Directly across from it is IslaMujeres (Playa Mujeres means the beach ofwomen) and we both stayed in a PreferredClub suite with our very own dipping poolfacing a sprawling white sand beach withcalm aqua waters. Divine!

The Secrets brand is always adult-only andupscale all-inclusive, and this new installa-tion is absolutely stunning with a world-class spa and every conceivable luxury youcan imagine. We absolutely loved it. And ifyou golf, it’s minutes away from a premiumcourse as well. We don’t golf, but there wasplenty to do there including enjoying all theofferings that come along with UnlimitedLuxury® their trademark all-inclusive pro-gram. Turned out we hardly had enoughtime to sample all of it either- unlimitedcocktails, 24/7 room service, fine no-reser-vation dining at multiple themed restau-rants, and tons of entertainment andnature activities. It was exhausting just try-ing to enjoy everything! But it did end upbeing the perfect way to completely rejuve-nate and celebrate our exciting escapadeswith whale sharks. I highly recommendboth.

www.secretsplayamujeres.com

www.amstardmc.com

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Photo: Cancun Adventures

Hotel Photos: www.secretsresorts.com

duce market in the morning and a gatheringpoint for romantic strollers in the early-evening hours. This neighborhood is stillknown for its free spirit and occasionaldemonstrations. Late on weekend nights,the many bars lining the square are packedwith beer-drinking kids, who turn a charm-ing medieval square into one vast streetparty—more edgy than charming.

The next stop, Piazza Navona, offers an evenmore interesting night scene, with streetmusic, artists, fire-eaters, local Casanovas,ice cream, Bernini fountains and outdoorcafés. The oblong square retains the shapeof the original racetrack built here aroundA.D. 80 by the Emperor Domitian. It hasbeen a center of Roman life since ancienttimes. The Four Rivers Fountain in the piaz-za’s center is the most famous fountain byGian Lorenzo Bernini, the 17th-centurysculptor who remade Rome in the Baroquestyle. Four burly river gods (representing thefour continents known in 1650) support anEgyptian obelisk. Bernini enlivens the foun-tain with sculptures depicting horses plung-

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In Rome, sunset brings unexpectedmagic. A stroll in the cool of the summerevening is made memorable by the

romance of the Eternal City. The tourist whoretreats at night to an air-conditioned hotelroom is missing the best time to plunge intoRome. Once the museums close and thecrowds thin, Rome relaxes. The city--sogrand and monumental by day--becomesintimate and approachable.

On my Roman night walks, I like to sit soclose to a bubbling fountain that traffic noiseevaporates. In the evening, it's fun to jostlewith kids to see the gelato flavors or watchlovers straddling more than a bench. Whilestrolling past polizia in flak-proof vests, Imarvel at the ramshackle elegance that soft-ens this brutal city for those who were bornhere--and can’t imagine living anywhereelse. These are the flavors of Rome, bestenjoyed after dark.

My favorite nighttime stroll, from Campo de’Fiori to the Spanish Steps, mixes romancewith history as it focuses on Rome’s floodlitnightspots and incomparable urban spaces.

Start your mile-long walk at the Campo de’Fiori (Field of Flowers). At the center of thecolorful square stands the statue ofGiordano Bruno, the philosopher-priest whowas burned at the stake on this spot in 1600for advancing the radical notion that theearth revolved around the sun. (When thestatue was erected in 1889, local riots over-came Vatican protests against honoring aheretic.) Today, Bruno overlooks a busy pro-

R o m e a t N i g h tb y R i c k S t e v e s

Pantheon-caféPhoto: Dominic Arizona Bonuccelli, Rick Steves’ Europe

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Pietro—is, like all of Rome’s fountains,powered by an aqueduct.

The piazza offers a thriving night scene.Window-shop along the elegant ViaCondotti, which stretches away from thesteps. Walking down a cobbled street, softlyilluminated as if by torchlight, it’s easy toimagine I’m rubbing shoulders with the past.

In Rome, give me the night.

Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writesEuropean travel guidebooks and hoststravel shows on public television andpublic radio. Email him at [email protected] and follow his blog onFacebook. © 2016 Rick Steves' Europe.All rights reserved.

ing through rocks as well as the exotic floraand fauna from newly discovered lands.

From Piazza Navona, head for thePantheon; sit for a while under the floodlitportico of this great temple to the gods ofRome, rebuilt by the Emperor Hadrian inA.D. 126. The pagan temple survived so wellbecause it became a Christian church afterRome fell, saving it from scavenging localswho would have carted away its stones (asthey routinely did with once-great, thenabandoned ancient Roman buildings). The40-foot granite columns of the Pantheon’sentrance, showing the scale on which theancient Romans built, support a triangularGreek-style roof with an inscription statingthat “M. Agrippa” constructed it. In fact, theroof was put in place by Hadrian, who cred-ited the builder of an earlier structure. Theimpressive entranceway gives no clue thatthe greatest wonder of the Pantheon liesinside—a soaring domed space that inspiredMichelangelo’s St. Peter’s and Brunelleschi’sDuomo, in Florence.

With your back to the Pantheon, walk uphillto the Piazza Capranica, home to the big,plain Florentine Renaissance–style PalazzoCapranica, and make your way to PiazzaColonna. A huge second-century columnfeatures reliefs depicting the victories ofEmperor Marcus Aurelius over the barbar-ians. When Marcus Aurelius died in A.D.180, the barbarians began to get the upperhand, commencing Rome’s three-centurydecline and fall.

Then follow Via del Corso, where horseraces—without riders—took place duringCarnevale until the late 1800s, when aseries of fatal accidents (including, reported-ly, one in front of Queen Margherita) led tothe event's cancellation. The street was oncelined with butcher shops. When it becameone of Rome’s first streets to be lit by gas in1854, the shops were replaced by bou-tiques, jewelry stores and antiques dealers.Nowadays, most of Via del Corso, which isclosed to traffic for a few hours everyevening, becomes a parade of Romans tak-ing the night air.

Next stop...the Trevi Fountain, of “ThreeCoins” fame. This watery Baroque ava-lanche, by Nicola Salvi, was completed in1762. Salvi used the palace behind thefountain as a theatrical backdrop for his fig-ure of Ocean, who represents water in everyform. Water gushes from 24 spouts whileTriton blows his conch shell.

The magic of the square is enhanced by thefact that no streets approach it directly. Asyou near the Trevi, you hear the splashingwater and the crowds and then—bam!—you’re there. The scene is always lively.Romantics toss a coin over their shoulder to

ensure their return to Rome. That may soundsilly, but every year I go through this touristritual...and it seems to work.

Continue on to the Spanish Steps nearby.Piazza di Spagna, named for the SpanishEmbassy to the Vatican, has been here for300 years. It’s been the hangout of manyRomantics—British poet John Keats, Germancomposer Richard Wagner, German poet-philosopher Johann Wolfgang vonGoethe—over the centuries. In the 1700s,British aristocrats on the Grand Tour camehere to contemplate Rome’s decay. In 1821,Keats pondered his mortality, then died oftuberculosis at age 25 in the orange build-ing to the right of the steps. (Fellow poet LordByron lived across the square at #66.) TheSinking Boat Fountain at the foot of thesteps—built either by Bernini or his father,

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route from Bangkok to Korat, on to KhonKaen, Udon Thani, Sakon Nakhon, NakhonPhanom and Khong Chiam, before flyingback to Bangkok.

The adventure began bright and early thefirst morning when Kob and Pop, our guideand driver, picked us up at our hotel inBangkok for the 2 ½ hour drive north tocatch the 7:30 am train at the PrapongStation, just outside of Kabinburi. A dozen orso vendors waiting for the train had arrivedearly to set up a mini-market for the localvillagers, with noodles, fruits, vegetablesand even cooked rats (a popular dish) forsale. When the train eventually arrived at

Our visit with the Abbot of Wat Siri Pa LanSai was only one of the memorable encoun-ters we had as we explored an area ofThailand that is mostly overlooked by visi-tors. Isan (also spelled Issan) in Thailand'snortheast, is the country's largest region.Due to its proximity to Laos, Cambodia andVietnam, it offers a wonderful melding ofcultures that can be seen in the architecture,markets, foods and lifestyles of the people.The name "isan" refers to the Hindu GodShiva who is symbolically associated with theNortheast and represents prosperity andknowledge.

Our trip in a small van took us on a circular

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Exploring Thailand’s Isan Region

Outside of Khong Chiam we satdown to talk with the Abbot ofone of the forest temples. With

our guide acting as interpreter, he told usthat after 16 years as an insurance sales-man, he came to the realization that hisbusy city lifestyle was not only stressful butwas both unsatisfying and incompatible withhis Buddhist upbringing. So he quit his job,studied and eventually became ordained asa monk. Five years ago he moved to theforest temple where he could use all five ofhis senses to engage with nature and betterappreciate the tenets of Buddhism, and ulti-mately continue on the road to spiritual ful-fillment.

A r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y S t e v e G i l l i c k

observation platforms puts you face-to-face with rock paintings that depicthunting, fishing and scenes from dailylife as it was 3000 to 4000 years ago.

But with all this physical activity and talk ofmarkets and dining, it's good to know thatIsan offers nothing short of culinary bliss forbreakfast, lunch and dinner. Over the 8 daytrip we indulged in crunchy papaya salad,spicy duck salad, 1000 year old eggs friedwith basil, garlic squid, grilled prawns,steamed fish, scrumptious Tom Yum Kungand Tom Ka Guy (soups), fresh mountainvegetables, local fruits such as mango,mangosteen, rambutan, dragon fruit and,snake fruit, Pad Thai, rice noodles, Koratnoodles, sticky rice dishes, fried and grilledchicken, sweet tamarind, lotus root...andmore!

The last two nights of our journey were spentat the Peerada River View Resort in KhongChiam where our room was steps from theMekong River. In the evening we wereentranced by spectacular sunsets, with Laosonly a stone throw away on the far side ofthe river, and in the morning we wouldwatch fishermen cast their nets, silhouettedby the golden sun rise. It was a fitting con-clusion to a unique adventure, steeped inawe, bound in reflection and experiencing alifestyle very different from our own.

For those who have explored the Bangkok-Chiang Mai-Phuket circuit in Thailand, Isan'sundiscovered attractions, amazing food,friendly people and engaging culture arethe logical next step.

www.tourismthailand.org

178:00 am, everyone boarded with bags,boxes and baskets of produce (plus a fewfrantic chickens) and 20 minutes later theyall rushed off the train to set up their stalls atthe Kabinburi market.

For us it was a photographer's dream cometrue with friendly, chatting vendors sellingclothing, household items, colourful fruitsand vegetables, pungent spices, freshlycaught fish, prawns and crab, chicken, pork,eggs, soups and all varieties of sweets.

And this was only one of many markets wewould visit over the next few days as weexplored Isan's treasures, temples andattractions.

Prasat Phimai is a 12th century Khmer tem-ple, outside of Korat, that is said to havebeen the model for Cambodia's Angkor Watcomplex. The main Prang (tower) representsthe mythical Mount Meru, the abode of theGods and the link between heaven andearth. However, unlike Angkor Wat, therewere hardly any crowds at Phimai, whichallowed us to casually explore the templearchways, niches and courtyards and dis-cover kings and mythological characters inthe delicate, faded, stone carvings.

Travelling further north toward Khon Kaenand Udon Thani, a number of small villagesexcel in traditional crafts and warm hospital-ity. Bang Song Silk Village provides fasci-nating insight into one of Isan's most impor-tant cottage industries. Entire families areinvolved in feeding silk worms, boiling thecocoons, extracting the threads, weavingbeautiful silk products and then selling thefinished products.

In Ban Kok Village, turtles are believed toembody holy spirits that have protected thevillagers for over 250 years. Every day atsunset, the turtles emerge from their darkhiding spots in and around the homes of theresidents, to feast on offerings of grapes,melons, mangoes and jackfruit. In April wesaw about 30 turtles but at other times of theyear, hundreds have been reported wander-ing the streets.

And at Koo Kaew Village, straw mats arewoven by teams of mothers and daughters

using large wooden looms. The rest of thefamily assists in cutting and storing the strawand the results are large colourful table andfloor coverings and smaller mats for sleep-ing and eating.

Closer to Udon Thani, mystical beliefs comealive at The Naga Forest Temple, believed tobe the entrance to the underground world ofa giant serpent. The mythological snake(Naga) is said to have breathed fireballs intothe sky to form steps for the Buddha toascend to heaven. Passing by the seven-headed snake statues, a 100 meter bridgeconnects the Buddhist Temple to an island,where colourful garlands protect the trees,families gather to pray in the many smallshrines, and the devout rub giant gongs in acircular motion to produce a singing soundthat is said to appease the Naga and bringgood fortune.

In cities such as Nakorn Phanom, vibrantnight markets provide a social atmosphereto hang out, listen to live music, snack andshop. Exciting morning markets, such as theone in Udon Thani, fill the streets with tuktuks (3 wheeled taxi/motorcycles) bringingvendors and locals to engage in the busyatmosphere of fresh and prepared foods,savoury smells, calculated bargaining andcolourful displays.

Travelling through Isan you encounter newtemples, such as Wat Tham Padan in SakornNakhon, where statues and rock carvings ofholy men surround a shining, golden stupaperched on a rock. As well there are moretraditional temples, such as Wat Phra ThatPhanom in Nakhon Phanom, where pil-grims circumambulate the beautiful, tall,white-and-gold stupa, once to reflect on theBuddha, a second time to contemplate thesacred scriptures, and a third time to expressdevotion to the work of the temple monks.

Isan also has its share of amazing naturalattractions. Sam Pun Boak (3000 holes) inUbon Ratchathani is known as Thailand'sGrand Canyon and provides visualserendipity as you scamper and photographthe rocks and the scenery. At Sao Cha Lingyou can get up-close-and-personal with theincredible mushroom rocks, and at PhaTaem National Park, a hiking path with


Top image: Nakhon Phanom monks

From left: Sunrise on the Mekong River in Kong Chiam.Phimai Temple Complex.Weaving colourful straw mats at Koo Kaew Village. Making Pad Thai at one of the night markets. Papaya Salad.The gold stupa at Wat Tham Padan.Making the giant gongs sing to appease theNaga Spirit at the Naga Forest Temple.

work and carpentry.

A sight to behold, the Almudaina Palace isa fine example of Moorish architecture andhow Spain endeavours to preserve the his-tory of its past. It has seen life as a Moorishfortress, and a palace for the Mallorcankings and today it is a museum containingpieces of art such as Flemish tapestries, anexcellent collection of paintings, and abeautiful selection of oriental carpets. It isalso rumoured to be the official residencewhen the King of Spain makes summertimevisits!

In the city on top of a hill, with a great viewof Lapalma and the sea, lies Bellver Castle.Due to its location and visibility from the seaand city, it has become one of Palma`s mostrecognized symbols. Originally a residencefor the Kings of Mallorca, it has withstoodthe elements and many sieges throughoutthe ages. In 1931, the castle and the forestsurrounding it was given to the city of Palma

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The Spanish empire has a long his-tory, and the country has withstoodthe tests of time to become a world

player, and an absolute must spot for a trip!

There are so many locations to choosefrom, with cities that can trace roots backthrough the mists of time, to modern citiesthat rival New York and London.

Not to be missed is a gem found off thecoast, surrounded by the asure waters ofthe Mediterranean sea - the Spanish Islandof Mallorca!

Palma is the economic and cultural hub ofMajorca, as it was once a major port, andnow the riches are enjoyed as a wonderfulbase for exploring the island's manybeaches, museums and nightlife. Palmacity center is located north of Badia dePalma and extends eastwards with mostly aflat fertile plain known as Es Pla. To thenorth and west, the city borders the Serra de

Tramuntana, the island's major mountainrange and a Unesco World Heritage site.

As a former Moorish casbah, or walled city,Palma's Old Town is a maze of narrowstreets that are ideal for meandering byfoot, discovering local treats and delights bythe score.

The walking tour around the city centreoffers a visit to the Spanish old world, withancient buildings and history around everycorner. As imposing as it is beautiful, thefamous La Seu is a vast cathedral originallybuilt on a mosque. Construction began in1229 but it did not finish until 1601 andfurther restoration was undertaken in 1901,when local architect Antoni Gaudí wasbrought in to help. Ingenious and passion-ate, Gaudí's many projects are clearly influ-enced by his love of architecture, nature,and religion. His eye for detail is clear ineach his creations and integrated into themwith ceramics, stained glass, wrought iron-

M a l l o r c a

The Mediterranean PearlA r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y M i c h a e l M o r c o s

19and was transformed into a museum that,after being restored in 1976, became thecity's History museum and a hub for manydifferent public ceremonies, cultural events,and concerts.

Museums and history are a part of Palma`sfabric, and a visit to the Fundació Pilar IJoan Miró museum is not to be missed.Dedicated to the work of the artist JoanMiró, there is a main building exhibitingworks donated by the artist, a library, asculpture garden, Miró's studio Sert, and theFinca Son Boter. The museum was designedby the renowned Rafael Moneo and built in1992.

We moved on to the city of Petra, birthplaceof famous missionary Brother Juniper Serra,founder of many Californian missionsincluding one in of San Francisco andanother in Los Angeles. In a stroke of luck,our visit coincided with a Cannonizing cer-emony held for him by none other thanPope Francis!

The local church in Petra has many statuesof saints whose names were borrowed inCalifornia including San Diego and SanFrancisco. His work in California includedmany recorded acts of piety and a dedica-tion to his missionary efforts for which hewas granted the posthumous title Apostle ofCalifornia. The Pope`s declaration of Serraas a Catholic saint was a controversial one,as many aboriginal tribes criticize Serra'streatment of their ancestors and associatehim with the suppression of their culture.

Caves of Artá lie in the northeast ofMajorca, around 60 km from the island'scapital of Palma. Visiting these caves onecan understand why it has been used infilms like The Golden Voyage of Sinbad`, asthey offer an other-worldly feel!

Once in the town of Artá we ate at the SantSalvador restaurant, great home styleMallorcan food. Olives and almonds aretypical, and there are many delights await-ing the palate, like sobrassada, arròs brut(saffron rice cooked with chicken, pork andvegetables), the sweet pastry ensaïmada,and a delightful herbal liqueur Herbs deMajorca.

As with most mediteranian beaches, thesands and azure water combine to make amemorable day for the whole family. A stopfor pictures from Es Mirador d’Es Colomer(Pollença) must also be made, as there arebreath taking views from high upon thecliffs.

We then visited Teixits Vicens, a family-runartisanal textile factory and craft workshopmanufacturing Mallorca fabrics that arelocally known as Roba de Llengües (Clothof Tongues). As a testament to their prod-ucts and professionalism, they have beenable to survive and keep an old trade alivein modern times, since being founded in1854.

Soller is an agricultural town nestled in afertile valley surrounded by olive andorange trees, vegetable gardens and pro-duce. Regular commerce with France hascreated cultural consequences that arereflected in its architecture and language.Highly praised by visitors, there are won-derful walks along the cobbled path ofBarranc de Bini, the Plaza de la Constitucióand along the cobbled path of Barranc deBiniaraix.

A lunch date at Belmond La Residenciaoffers a Donkey walking trail tour throughthe hotel’s olive groves, an enjoyable visitfollowed by an unforgettable picnic lunch ina stone shepherd’s hut. Further along is avisit to the Royal Carthusian Monastery ofValldemossa, where Frédéric Chopin andGeorge Sand spent the winter of 1838-1839.

A final stop took us for a wonderful sunsetwhile enjoying a delicious selection of fingerfood and cocktails at the Puro Beach club.All luxurious amenities are offered, includ-ing seaside food and drinks, lounges, ter-race, pool & SPA treatments. Fun for dayand night!

You can read more about the great Mallorca hotels inthe Stay & Play section of this issue.

www.spain.info


Good to Go!Great Travel Gear and Gadgets

We’ve asked our globetrotting contributors what they must have when on the go; here are a few of their suggestions…

Snorkel Gear to Go

Give Your Ears a Break


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Connect for Less

NO-JET-LAGTM

Let There Be Light!

Better Beach Lounging

Safe Water Wherever

Istanbul is an ancient city that reflectsthe cultural influences of the manyempires that have ruled this magnifi-

cent old-world metropolis. From theRoman-era chariot race Hippodrome to theEgyptian obelisks and on to the iconicByzantine Hagia Sophia featuring a soar-ing dome and Christian mosaics, there issomething for every history buff.

My passion for Istanbul has grown since thelast time I visited. Historically known asConstantinople, there are many things thatI love about this city, from the locals andtheir hospitality and good-humor to therestaurants, the müezzins on their minaretsand the lovely tea gardens.

This visit would take us throughout the richtapestry of history, starting with a magnifi-cent boat ride on the the Bosphorus. TheBosporus is a natural strait and internation-ally-significant waterway located in north-western Turkey. It forms a part of theboundary between Europe and Asia, andconnects the Black Sea with the Aegeanand Mediterranean Seas. The shores of thestrait are heavily populated as it is strad-dled by the city of 17 million inhabitantsextending inland from both coasts. Thecruise is a great way to get oriented toIstanbul and with the right guide, it can bea wonderful floating history and geographylesson!

Hagia (St.) Sophia

Once ashore, we went to visit Hagia (St.)Sophia, which is one of the most beautifuland important early Byzantium Empire

architectural examples in the city. Though itis an architectural wonder, the mystical sideis just as unique. When you visit here youcan see Islamic and Orthodox Christiansymbols mixed together throughout thebuilding. It was built in the 6th century byEmperor Justinian and until 1453 was usedas church. When Ottoman EmperorMehmet conquered Istanbul, it was con-verted from church to Mosque until 1935when it was converted again but this time tointo a Museum. A site not to be missed!

Topkapi Palace

Topkapi Palace has lots of history and ispopular with the tourists, mainly for its col-lection of colorful stories, more than mostof the world's museums put together.Between the 15th and 19th centuries it wasthe court of the Ottoman Empire, wheresultry concubines were at the beck and callof wealthy sultans, and intrigue infused thePalace with mystery. Visiting the palace'sopulent pavilions, Treasure rooms andsprawling Harem offers a fascinatingglimpse into their lives.

The Blue Mosque

Built in the name of Ottoman EmperorSultan Ahmet in 1616, the Blue Mosquefaces Hagia Sophia and is famous for itsblue Iznik tiles. The Blue Mosque is the last,great imperial mosque of the classicalOttoman period and although its originalname is Sultanahmet Mosque, it is popular-ly known as the Blue Mosque for the bluetiles adorning the walls of its interior. It isIstanbul's most photogenic building and

One of a kind, this isA r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y M i c h a e l M o r c o s

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was the grand project of Sultan Ahmet I.The mosque's wonderfully curved exteriorfeatures domes and six slender minarets.Blue İznik tiles adorn the interior and givethe building its unofficial but commonlyused name.

The Hippodrome of

Constantinople

Originally a Byzantium Stadium area forChariot Racing, the Hippodrome ofConstantinople is the Heart of Sultanahmetand includes many small monuments fromGreece, Egypt and Germany. TheHippodrome was the scene of many adownfall, but even so, emperors and sul-tans sought to outdo one another in mak-ing it more and more impressive, decorat-ing the centre with statues from the farreaches of their empires. Very impressive,and visitors can easily imagine the thunder-ous races in ancient times.

Grand Bazaar

During a James Bond film, there was areally cool Motor bike chase from roof toroof of a very long street – these were thetops of the Grand Bazaar. The chase lastednearly 2 minutes, so you can just imaginehow huge it is! Found throughout manyIslamic countries, The Grand Bazaar is thebiggest with more than 4000 shops and isan amazing hodge-podge of curios,clothes and cooking. Brand name clothes,silk rugs, or a perfectly brewed cup of tea,everything is at your disposal in thislabyrinthine bazarr. Just outside the narrow

streets lies the aromatic Spice Bazaar, andjust a bit further along is the famous GalataBridge, offering access to the modern,urban delights across the river in Istanbul’smore residential and contemporary neigh-bourhoods.

Food glorious food!

A luchtime break saw our tour stop at theSultanahmet Köftecisi (The HistoricalSultanahmet Meatballs Restaurant), builtover four generations of modesty, tenacity,respect and love for the art of cooking.Obviously they are famous for their meat-balls, and they do not disappoint!

Evening walks took us throughout the cityand into all sorts of hidden enclaves andneighbourhoods. The sights and soundsare a treat for the senses, but the taste ofthe local cuisine is extraordinary. Oneevening in the Bosphorus, a sector of themore modern Istanbul, we ate dinner at theDinner at Reina Köşebaşı (kebap menü).The Jet Set are often found hanging outhere, as it is a really great place to eat andparty, and being a very modern club andresturant, it is quite removed from the oldcity’s ancient artifacts and buildings thatmany young find stodgey!

Dinner is best spent with friends and ourhotel offered up a trip to the best seafoodrestaurant on the Galata Bridge, the pleas-ant staff, fresh fish and ambiance weregreat, and the people watching is superb !

www.goturkey.com

www.turkishairlines.com

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I s t anbu l

C o m e W i t h U s & S a i l T h e W o r l d !

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Cr uise News - V i k i n g S t a r page 26

RCI ’ s Anthem of the Seas - A New Gene ra t i on o f Cr u i s e r page 30

Mekong River Cruise with G Adventures page 32

Galàpago s by s ea wi th Haugan Cr u i s e s page 34

Discover the Caribbean like never before on the S/V Mandalay

The S/V Mandalay sails weekly boarding in Grenada on Sunday and return-ing on Saturday. Aside from weekly cruises to and from Grenada, throughoutthe year the S/V Mandalay offers special cruises taking in different CaribbeanIslands, such as St. Lucia and St. Maarten!

The S/V Mandalay is also available for pri-vate charter. The Captain can arrange apersonalized itinerary to meet your charterneeds including stops in the Grenadines,which may include, Grenada, Carriacou,Union Island, Mayreau, Tobago Cays,Bequia, St. Vincent and possibly someother stops along the way!

www.sailwindjammer.com

Hurtigruten heads for the Amazon rainforest, Canadaand the world’s longest fjord

Starting in 2017, Hurtigruten’s expedition ships will sail to the rainforests of SouthAmerica, to Viking settlements and the national parks in Newfoundland. In theArctic, the Norwegian explorer cruise line’s guests can explore the largest fjordcomplex in the world.

Hurtigruten bring people together from allover the world to connect with their innerexplorer by adding new unique destina-tions to the program alongside theNorwegian coast, Spitsbergen, Iceland,Greenland and Antarctica. Guests will betaken close to nature with expedition shipsMS Fram and MS Midnatsol as well as thenew vessel MS Spitsbergen.

www.hurtigruten.com

AmaWaterways’ Zambezi Queen

With a design specific for safari river cruis-ing on the Chobe River, the 28-passengerZambezi Queen offers a sophisticatedonboard experience designed to maximizeanimal sightings. Passanger comfort isensured when staying in any of the 14 bal-cony staterooms, all decorated in contem-porary style. The air-conditioned top deckof the ship offers a dining room, lounge,

bar and pool area for comfort. Enjoy game watching from your stateroom, orvisit the top deck for a beverage, sun bathing and more game watching. Perusethe library of books, enjoy a board game and explore the riverbanks of theChobe River on the Zambezi Queen.

www.amawaterways.com

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R o y a l - C a r i b b e a n S e a b o u r n S e a D r e a m S i l v e r s

For discerning world travellers, there's nobetter way to explore South America thanaboard one of Silversea Cruises' GrandVoyages, scheduled to circumnavigate thecontinent in 2017.

Stretching from the steaming Amazon tothe bone-dry Atacama Desert and the gla-cial peaks of the Andes, South America is aland of stunning extremes, featuring theworld's highest waterfall, the world'slongest mountain range, the world's driestdesert and the world's largest rainforest.Now, the luxury cruise guests of Silverseamay discover the continent's dramaticdiversity while sailing roundtrip from FortLauderdale aboard one of two bespokevoyages: a 63-day Silver Spirit cruisedeparting on January 16, 2017, and a 66-day cruise aboard the line's newest ship,Silver Muse, departing on October 13,2017.

Designed for the traveller who relishes amore leisurely pace, these "Circle SouthAmerica" odysseys combine the luxury ofsailing aboard an intimate, elegant shipwith the excitement of discovering SouthAmerica's most captivating ports, uniquecultures, and breathtaking scenery.Highlights include a crossing of thePanama Canal, two days cruising Chile'smajestic fjords, a two or three-day stopoverin Rio de Janeiro, plus multi-day calls inBuenos Aires and Callao (gateway to Limaand Machu Picchu).

www.silversea.com

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t y C o s t a C r y s t a l C u n a r d D i s n e y H o l l a n d A m e r i c a

s e a S t a r - C l i p p e r s U n i w o r l d V i k i n g W i n d s t a r

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PANDAW RIVER EXPEDITIONS

Pandaw has 14 meticulously crafted and designed ships accommodating from 10-60passengers. Each ship has been custom built by traditional craftsmen and hand fin-ished in brass and teak. Luxury and comfort permeate each ship without sacrificingtheir distinctive colonial character. Personalized service is also a trademark of PandawRiver Expeditions, which provides a passenger-to-staff ratio of 2:1.

One of the distinguishing features is an ultra-low draft on the ships that allows themto go to more remote areas and shallower waters than would be inaccessible to other boats, so Pandaw can offer its passengers a moreintimate experience of the local cultures.

Passenger comfort is paramount and the ships feature buffet breakfast and sit-down lunch and dinners, observation and panoramic decksideal for viewing, air-conditioned cabins, a full array of cabin amenities including attached bathrooms, kimonos, library, lounges, spafacilities, Wi-Fi, mini safe and much more. Its all-inclusive pricing means passengers on a Pandaw owned ship can enjoy shore excur-sions, meals, local beer, local soft drinks, local spirits, mineral water and crew gratruities at no extra cost. Note: Pandaw partner shipsdo NOT include drinks or crew gratruities.

Pandaw River Expeditions offers a variety of excursions, from one to 20 days, in Burma, Indochina, India and the Amazon, such as:

Mandalay Pagan Packet – 7 nights -- Explore the Royal Capitals – Pagan-Mandalay (Burma)Pagan-Mandalay or Mandalay-Pagan Short Cruise – 1 or 2 nights – ideal for combining with a post cruise to Rangoon (Yangon).Pagan & Upper Irrawaddy - 10 nights – includes Mandalay, the Gorges and Katha (Burma)Classic Mekong – 7 nights – the original and best way to cruise on the Mekong River (Vietnam/Cambodia)Halong Bay & The Red River – Pandaw is the first and only cruise commencing in stunning Halong Bay and travelling through NorthernVietnam via Hanoi up the Red River and its tributaries.Bhutan & the Brahmaputra – 14 nights – discover the mysteries of Bhutan and sail along the famous Brahmaputra River. A voyage fromKolkata to Jorhat. (Bhutan/India)

www.pandaw.com

VIKING EXPLORATION COMES TO NORTH AMERICA AND THE CARIBBEANWITH NEW OCEAN CRUISE ITINERARIES

Viking Ocean Cruises® has recently announced that the line will expand its destination-focused cruising to North America and theCaribbean with five new itineraries launching in September 2016. As a nod to the most famous Viking explorer, Leif Eriksson, whoset foot on North American soil 500 years before Columbus, Viking Star will also cross the North Atlantic – with a new itinerary thatsails from Bergen to Montreal, with stops in the Shetland Islands, the Faroe Islands, Iceland and Greenland. From Montreal, theaward-winning ship will cruise the St. Lawrence River and down the coast of New England to New York, during the peak period offall foliage in October. Viking Star will then make her way down the Eastern seaboard to San Juan, Puerto Rico, which will serve asher homeport for winter Caribbean itineraries. The ship will return to Europe in February 2017, with a transatlantic sailing fromSan Juan to Barcelona.

North America & Caribbean Itineraries

Created in part to honor early Viking trade routes beyond Scandinavia, Viking’s new North American itineraries will allow guests to sailthe North Atlantic and visit original Norse settlement sites that date back more than 1,000 years. Viking’s Caribbean itineraries will pro-vide an alternative to the cruises typically offered in the region – with more time in port and experiences that go beyond the iconic andexpected. Highlights from the new program include:

In the Wake of the Vikings (15 days; Bergen to Montreal) Sailing Date: September 18, 2016.Eastern Seaboard Explorer (13 days; Montreal to New York) Sailing Date: October 2, 2016.Eastern Seaboard to the West Indies (15 days; New York to San Juan) Sailing Date: October 14,2016.West Indies Explorer (11 days; San Juan to San Juan) Sailing Dates: October 28, November7, December 17 and December 27, 2016; January 6, January 16, January 26, February 5and February 15, 2017.

www.vikingoceancruises.com

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Royal Caribbean’s Anthem of the Seas:

A S i r e n C a l l To A N e w G e n e r a t i o n o f C r u i s e r sb y S u s a n C a m p b e l l

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recently had the pleasure of attending atwo day cruise with Royal Caribbean tocelebrate the launch of their new ship

Anthem of the Seas. They were also cele-brating the fact that they have a new home-port for it in New Jersey –and it was a galaaffair. Our launch party aboard the skydeck sailing past the Statue of Liberty atnight and also the new World Trade OneTower all lit up, was indeed touching. Andeven though I’m Canadian, it was hard notto get caught up in the national pride andpatriotic hoopla of the event with everysong about New York known to man blast-ing from the speakers, and all the guestswaving American flags! It was indeed areal Yankee Doodle Dandy happening!

But it was soon apparent that this ship wasmore about attracting a brand new gener-ation of cruisers. The first clue was thegigantic digital dashboard monitors scat-tered about- they are certainly keen onconnecting with today’s tech obsessed trav-ellers and exploiting the the possibilities ofsocial media. Guest tweets, posts, photosand videos were larger than life in real timeas events unfolded. And ther social mediacrew interacted efficiently. Your agenda isalso available as an app. You can makereservations virtually and get alerts aboutanything via your smart phone. And theywere very proud of their new Wi-Fi capabil-ities, speed and strength-touted as the beston board cruise ships anywhere.

High Tech At Every Turn

The futuristic and high tech trend was alsoobvious at every turn in their amenities.New and very cool is their NorthStar cap-sule for panoramic sightseeing. It remindedme of something from The War of theWorlds movie, – a large glass module thatlooks like a giant eye that extends from along steel arm. It rotates 360 degrees forfabulous views a it climbs and descends outover the ship. Also tech-centered is theBionic Bar. Named “Shaken” and “Stir”robots actually make your cocktail ofchoice once you order it from an iPad. Very

fun. But it does take a long time and ismore a novelty than a real service.However, they have no dearth of real well-trained human bartenders at their dozensof bars. In fact, I took a very good classiccocktail making class from one of them. Heis an award-winning mixologist whose EastIndian name “Shekhar” ironically is pro-nounced “shaker” in English. We learnedthe finer art of making classic martinis, andthen he made us some of his award-winingconcoctions which were very interesting, Iespecially liked one he made using laven-der liqueur. I also had a chance to visit thecontrol room and witness a lot of their eco-friendly practices behind the scenes, andmust I was impressed with their efforts.

Flexible Accommodations

Over half of the 2,090 cabins have decks,and the ones that don’t, benefit from aninteresting new feature- a virtual oceanview including optional sound. And acrossthe board, they were very flexible to accom-modate groups and families with modularinterlocking cabins that could be accessedfrom within rather than from the hallwayslike adjoining rooms in hotels. They alsohave some seriously deluxe split-level suiteswith full dining rooms, glass walls and evenprivate hot tubs on the deck.

Over the Top Activities

Who would have though you could learn tosky dive on a ship? But you can! A windtunnel on board allows you to stimulate theskydiving experience. And you can alsoroller blade, drive bumper cars, and eventake a circus school trapeze class at theirversatile space the SeaPlexSM . They alsooffer a wave surfing pool, and plenty ofswimming pools and hot tubs on deck, anda lovely Solarium- a tiered water circuit ofpools and whirlpools in a massive glassed-in complex ideal for watching the waves goby without the wind. Other amenitiesinclude a spa, a casino and a forwardthinking high tech entertainment like virtualconcerts with video projection, robotics and

human elements at Two70. Also Vegas stylerevues like their current “We Will Rock You”musical also attests to the fact they are outto attract a younger cruising set. Andthough there is a shuffleboard court, it islooped by a running track, and for thoseseeking to keep in shape while on holidaythere is also a state-of-the-art fitness centerpowered by Technogym®.

Dining & Drinking

Of course, they had quality cafes withgreat baristas and equipment to caffeinatethe millennials, but they also have formalfine dining rooms and some very creativerestaurants like Wonderland that looks likeyou went down the rabbit hole. In all, thereare eighteen places to eat and many barsand snack spots, so going hungry or thirstyis never an issue. And their new conceptcalled Dynamic Dining® gives one thefreedom to pick and choose the restaurantsand dining times instead of being stuckwith a seating schedule.

My overall impression was that this ship-though it would still be good for families-is really out to appeal to the next genera-tion of potential cruise passengers who areseeking a well-wired, exciting and moreeclectic type of holiday on the seas thantheir parents and grandparents have expe-rienced. But only time will tell if they suc-ceed in attracting them.

www.royalcaribbean.com/

anthemoftheseas

Day 1 - Ho Chi Minh City

Arrival and transfer.

Day 2 - Ho Chi Minh City/My Tho

Enjoy a visit to the Cu Chi Tunnelsand the War Remnants Museum.Embark in the evening and enjoy awelcome drink and briefing.

Day 3 - My Tho/Sadek

Visit Vinh Trang Pagoda with a shorttour of My Tho town en route. Takelocal boats to Thoi Son Island to seea coconut product manufacturer, tastesome local fruit and honey and meettraditional musicians. Continue on toCai Be and enjoy a visit to the float-ing market. Opt to cycle the smallpaths through local communities onthe island and visit a Rice Poppingcottage industry. Continue by localboat to Vinh Long to meet the vessel.Embark for the evening sail to SaDec.

Day 4 - Sadek/Xã Vinh Xuong

Visit the Kien An Cung Pagoda in SaDec and stroll through the marketalong the river. View the old colonialhouses by the delta. Enjoy breakfastand lunch on board as you cruise theMekong. Arrive at Chau Doc and visitSam Mountain for sunset. Gaze out over the rice paddies orrelax in a hammock. Visit some tem-ples and pagodas along the way. Optfor dinner in town.

Day 5 -

Xã Vinh Xoung/Phnom Penh

Cross the border into Cambodia andcontinue on to Phnom Penh. Enjoy anevening in the capital city starting witha cyclo tour to see the city from a newperspective. Opt to finish up at theForeign Correspondents Club forHappy Hour overlooking the river ordinner in town.Day 6 - Phnom Penh

Visit the sobering S21 Museum andthe Killing Fields with a local guide.After lunch, use free time to visitsights like the Royal Palace, SilverPagoda, the National Museum, or theRussian Market.

Day 7 -

Phnom Penh/Kâmpóng Trâlach

Wander through the town of KohChen on an island in the river. Visitsilver and copper workshops andmeet a Khmer Rouge survivor eagerto tell his story. Continue to KampongTralach and visit the local vihara(Buddhist monastery) and WatKampong Tralach Leu pagoda. Opt tocycle, or ride in a tuk tuk or buffalocart, through the village and past ricepaddies to reach the monastery.

Day 8 - Kâmpóng

Trâlach/Chhnok Tru

Sail on to Kampong Chhnang, one ofthe largest fishing ports on the TonleSap RIver. Learn more about the fishfarming, pottery and sugar palm pro-duction in the area. Wander throughthe local market then opt to cycle tovisit the local industries. Enjoy lunchback on the ship en route to ChnokTru. Hop in a local boat to visit one ofthe largest floating villages on theriver. Enjoy an evening cocktail andthe Captain's farewell dinner.

Day 9 - Chhnok Tru/Siem Reap

Enjoy a slow morning crossing TonleSap Lake. Arrive at the pier near SiemReap and bid farewell to the boat.Visit the G Adventures-supported NewHope project for lunch and to learnmore about the important work beingdone here. Enjoy a free late afternoonto wander Siem Reap and explore themarkets.

Day 10 - Siem Reap

Rise early to catch the sunrise at theAngkor Wat temple complex.D

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Ho Chi Minh City to Siem Reapwww.gadventures.com


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Darwin’s theory of evolution. Easy to findare giant tortoises, lava lizards, land igua-nas, as well as marine iguanas and sealions that like to snooze in the sun. Thereare so many animals, it’s hard to knowwhere to look.

On the water, it’s even harder to choosewhich animal to look at. There are animalseverywhere, and if you’re exploringGalàpagos via cruiseship, you’ve chosenthe ideal way to see them all.

Kitted out in snorkelling gear and wetsuit, Iflip over the side of the panga into therefreshing water at Punta Vicente Roca, onthe northwestern side of Isabela Island.

I’m startled by a large eagle ray, but hebarely notices me. I know the names of

only a handful of the fish that surround me:sergeant major, parrotfish, and king angel.

As I make my way closer to the rocky wallof the island, suddenly I’m surrounded byturtles, big ones who lazily watch the bub-bles from my snorkel. I telepathically say toone, "hey, don't you know you're not sup-posed to get that close to me?!"

He looks at me and flicks his long tail as hedrifts by, as if to say "the rules apply to you,turista, but not to me".

Best way to see the Galàpagos

A cruise is the ideal way to see theGalàpagos, as most animals are spreadout across the 13 main islands and theseven smaller ones. Most locations are

The sea lions frolic. The blue footedboobies preen. The flightless cor-morants intertwine their necks in a

mating dance.

As we drift along shore, new animals comeinto view. Penguins look at us. A marineiguana searches for algae. Sally Lightfootcrabs -- even redder than the dinner platevariety -- crawl along the rocks. This is atypical two minutes on a panga (Zodiac)ride during a Galàpagos cruise.

As you might expect, life aboard aGalàpagos cruise is very water-oriented.There are, of course, daily excursions ontoone of the twenty islands of this archipela-go on the equator. Depending on whichisland you visit, you’ll also see many land-based animals like the finches that sparked

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Galàpagos by sea with Haugan Cruises

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accessible only by boat.

While you can see a lot on a day cruisefrom a hotel, to really understandGalàpagos’ diversity you need to visit morethan one island. Islands are quite far apartfrom each other. The only practical way tosee more than one or two is by sleepingcomfortably aboard your cruise ship on theinter-island crossings.

You have many choices for cruises, but thesmaller your ship, the more you will see.This is because with fewer passengers, thelogistics are easier for getting everyone offthe ship and into small pangas. Panga isthe local name for a small boat, in this casethe tough inflatable Zodiacs which bringyou ashore, to the best snorkelling andkayak locations, and alongside steep rockwalls where animals make their homes.

If you’re looking for comfort and stability, acatamaran is your best cruiseship choice.The waters between the Galàpagos islandscan get quite rough, and the shallowerdraft and two hulls of the catamaran makeit more stable than most single-hulledships. If seasickness is a major concern,choose a catamaran or the largest (90-100passenger) ships allowed in Galàpagos.

Seasickness tips:

Pack pressure-point wristbands (availableat any drug store).

Choose a lower mid-ship cabin, as you’llfeel even less motion.

Ensure your cabin has a private balcony sothat you can enjoy the fresh air and gaze atthe steadying horizon -- even in your paja-mas -- if you feel a little queasy.

Galàpagos waters are roughest from Juneto December, with June to August havingthe choppiest waters near the main islandof Santa Cruz.

Choosing your Galàpagos cruise

There are three different classes ofGalàpagos cruiseships. Aside from price,

the main difference between them is com-fort and quality. When assessing costs, besure to determine whether the cost of air-fare from the mainland is included in theprice.

Tourist class: smaller, with basic amenities.Cabins are near the engine room and areoften noisy and smell of diesel. Cabins aresmall, with bunk beds. Bathrooms are usu-ally shared, with limited hot water. Food isbudget. Average speed is 8 or 9 knots, soitineraries are limited. Guides will havesome English, but are likely not fluent.

First class: bigger ships with more commu-nal space and bigger cabins with privatebaths and sometimes with balconies. Foodis adequate. Air conditioning is generallyquiet and throughout the ship. Guides arefluent in English. Most islands are includedin itineraries.

Luxury class: fast boats with the higheststandard of design for stability and comfortin the Galàpagos (the calmer Caribbeanand Mediterranean fleets have more luxuri-ous boats). Best quality and selection offood and wine, with several places to dineand lounge. Also included are snorkellingequipment, wetsuits and kayaks, which willbe in good condition. An outdoor jacuzzion deck lets you warm up after yoursnorkel. Itineraries are not restricted by dis-tance. The luxury ships hire the most expe-rienced and skilled guides and crews.

Catamarans are the most spacious of allthe ships in Galàpagos waters, becausecabins and public spaces are spread acrossthe ”bridge” connecting the two hulls.Catamarans are very comfortable andremarkably stable, even on the rough inter-island crossings.

Haugan Cruises

Haugan Cruises has Galàpagos’ newestfleet of catamarans, and each of their threeships takes just 16 passengers.

Haugan’s cabins are large -- the brandnew (November 2015) Petrel even has twosuites. Every cabin has a private balcony


and a spacious bathroom withL’Occitane amenities. The ships areequipped with several dining andlounging areas, a jacuzzi on the top deck,and all the equipment you need forsnorkelling and kayaking amongstGalàpagos’ water animals.

The little luxuries make it ideal. For exam-ple, after snorkelling on a day cruise, you’llneed to change out of your bathing suit ina cramped bathroom. Aboard a Haugancruise, you’re greeted with hot chocolateand a big towel after your swim. You cantake a dip in the jacuzzi before headingback to the hot shower in your cabin beforedressing for dinner or your shore excursion.

Best guides, on land and sea

By sailing with Haugan you’ll have some ofGalàpagos’ top guides. The best guideshave their pick of boats, and Haugan isone of the very best. I learned an incredibleamount from my guide, Javier. Haugan’sguides are all bilingual (or more), have avery high level of education, and are adeptat understanding and adapting to eachguest’s interests.

Javier makes a point of ensuring I see allthe unique underwater treasures ofGalàpagos. During one snorkel atElizabeth Bay, he tells me exactly where todive deep so I can see a seahorse -- my firstoutside of an aquarium. He teaches me somuch about the seahorse’s habits andhabitat, that a few minutes later I find myown seahorse clinging to some seaweed inthe gentle current.

On land and at sea, Huaguan Cruises isthe ideal way to see Galàpagos.

www.haugancruises.com

Johanna Read is a Vancouver-based freelancewriter and photographer specializing in traveland food.

Follow Johanna on:Instagram @TravelEaterJohannaTwitter @TravelEater. www.TravelEater.net

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Over the past 15 years, the Brazilian wine industry has made major invest-ments in technological innovations and the management of its vineyards.The result is excellent quality labels recognized with more than 3,000 inter-national awards. What many don’t know is that Brazil has been producingwines since the beginning of its colonization.

The first vines were brought to Brazil by Martim Afonso de Souza, who camefrom Portugal with the aim of disseminating agriculture in the new colony.Seedlings of Vitis vinifera were planted in the Captaincy of São Vicente, inthe southeast.

Brazil, the largest country in Latin America is among the top five largestwine producers in the Southern Hemisphere. Among the many excellentproducts, the Brazilian sparkling wine was the first to draw the attention ofinternational critics.

www.winesofbrasil.com/en

China Tourism Introduces New Brand Logo

China National Tourism Administration (CNTA) has made

“Beautiful China” the tag line of its tourism and introduced a

new global brand logo. With an overall look as a stamp, the

new logo integrates modern messaging with the ancient

Chinese art form of calligraphy. The hieroglyph in the back-

ground means “travel” in ancient Chinese language, which

shows a flag guiding a couple around. The blue color represents the sky, delivering China

tourism’s concepts - vitality, harmony and green travel. The red color gives tribute to the Chinese

civilization that has been going on for thousands of years. Illustrating an international vision, the

“Beautiful China” logo represents China’s promising and welcoming tourism industry.

A r o u n d T h e W o r l d

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Cheers To Brazilian Wine!

“If these walls could talk the tales they would tell.” So true is the oft-said phrase.For history hounds there’s infinite mystery and adventure in visiting a centuryhome and discovering about the era and who lived there. Let the sleuthing beginat the following heritage properties in England.

Kenwood House in north London’s Hampstead Heath is accessible by tube. TheHeath covers 800 acres of WOODLANDS, swimming ponds, trails, and stunningviews of the city. The 18th century estate was home to high society’s first mixedrace girl. The daughter of a slave lived with her aristocratic aunt and uncle atKenwood. The book "Belle", chronicling her life, was adapted to the screen.Brewing magnate Edward Cecil Guinness later owned the property, and hisimpressive art collection is on display. Tours are free.

On record as one of England’s oldest homesteads, Hellens Manor dates to theearly 12th century. In the rural hamlet of Much Marcle in Herefordshire, theGeorgian and Tudor estate remains a family home but is open for tours, as arethe english gardens and ancient WOODLANDS. The house is said to be hauntedby a female occupant who was abandoned by her lover. She was locked in herbedroom for 30 years before her death in 1728. The window pane reveals a mes-sage that she etched with her ring. Wedding receptions are hosted in the GreatBarn, and a cider mill produces cider and perry for the annual Big Apple Festival.

In the Lake District, Blackwell The Arts & Crafts House, circa 1898, is one ofBritain’s most influential historic houses. Arts and Crafts architect Baillie Scott’s

innovative design elements incorporate stained glass, ceramic tiles,stonework, intricate carved wood and panelling. Originally a summer homefor Manchester brewery owner, Sir Edward Holt and his family, the estate wasalso a girls’ private school.

www.english-heritage.org.uk/visit/places/kenwood/www.hellensmanor.comwww.blackwell.org.uk


CWTATW

Engl ish Her i tage Hideaways

b y C h e r i e D e L o r y

stores have a floor dedicated to restaurantsand this is a great way to enjoy an inexpen-sive meal, while those stores that have a foodcourt, such as ‘Isetan’ in Shinjuku allow you topick and choose foods to take back to thehotel and enjoy your own gourmet meal.

Tokyo Izakayas (informal eating and drinkingestablishments) provide opportunities to meetlocals, chat with the chef and his family andexperience ultra-fresh food. Two of thefriendliest are Wasuke, in Kappabashi andTsuzuku, in Ushigome Yanagicho.

Fugu, the deadly puffer fish is actually quitepopular and there are a few specialty restau-rants in Tokyo that serve it fried or as sashimi(raw). It's quite tasty with a sprig of greenonion wrapped inside the delicate translucentpieces.

Most people in Tokyo either speak English orreadily understand it. In high traffic touristplaces (the subway, train stations, hotels,restaurants, department stores) English-onlyspeakers will not have difficulty making theirneeds understood.

So now that the myths are out of the way,Tokyo can be seen as a treasure house forspecial interest fulfillment. Structures such asthe Metropolitan Building, the Tokyo Tower

famous Tsukiji fish market, 10 minutes to theKabuki Theatre, 10 minutes to the Ginzashopping area (and about 15 minutes to theshops in Yurakucho) and an even shorter walkto the Ginza subway line where areas such asShinjuku (shopping, dining, electronics) andHarajuku (fashion, fun and shopping) areonly 15 to 20 minute ride away.

Those overplayed videos of Tokyo subwaypushers--guards who cram that last customeronto the subway train by leaning into themand shoving--are actually quite rare and in 14trips to the city I've never seen a ‘pusher’ dur-ing rush hour or any other time. That's not tosay that rush hour isn't crowded on the trainsand in the major street intersections (thebiggest crowds are always shown crossing atShibuya), so savvy travellers avoid thesetimes, just as they might in their own hometown.

Tokyo food is amazing and those who relishsushi and sashimi will be more than pleasant-ly surprised at the freshness of the seafoodand the "umami" - the savouriness - of otherdishes. Those who prefer not to eat fish orseafood have tantalizing choices of chicken,beef, pork and vegetarian dishes. The smalloutdoor restaurants in Shimbashi that special-ize in Yakitori (meat and vegetables grilled ona skewer) are excellent. Most department

Myths about visiting Tokyo includeconcerns over the expense, thecrowds, the frenetic pace of society,

the food (raw-fish anxiety) and the language.Travellers need to take a deep breath andexperience the city for themselves. They’ll dis-cover at the first smile, the first "Konichiwa"(good day) and the first "Irashemasay" (wel-come) that Tokyo can be a very comfortableand relaxing experience.

As in all major cities, different servicesrespond to individual budgets. In Tokyo a 2-3 star business hotel provides a small, cleanroom. Some travellers believe that any ‘busi-ness’ hotel is in fact a ‘capsule’ hotel (onewhere hotel guests literally sleep in tiny–sometimes crawl-in spaces that resemblecapsules) but these are totally differentaccommodation categories. The capsule ispopular with those who have had a late nightof partying and need a quick, cheap place tostay; a business hotel is for tourists and busi-ness people who are looking for accommo-dation that is at a lower price point and withfewer amenities than traditional 4 and 5 starhotels.

Our favourite hotel is the 4-star Courtyard byMarriott Tokyo Ginza, which is perfectly locat-ed for our needs. It's a 10 minute walk to the

R e l a x i n g i n T o k y o

A r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y S t e v e G i l l i c k

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Mharaja Express – one of the most luxurious tourist train inIndia was voted as "The World's Leading Luxury Train" thricein a row at The World Travel Awards in 2012, 2013 and 2014.

www.the-maharajas.com

M a h a r a j a s E x p r e s s W o r l d ' s L e a d i n g L u x u r y T r a i n

and the Sky Tree provide breathtaking viewsof the city and on a clear day, in the distance,Mount Fuji sunsets are spectacular. Museumsare world class, from the Tokyo-Edo Museumby the Ryogoku Metro station, to the ArtGalleries by Ueno Park, to the JapaneseSword Museum and the brand new SamuraiMuseum in Shinjuku.

Tokyo's temples add another dimension to avisit, from the large Sensoji temple and com-plex at Asakusa to the tranquil SengakujiTemple in Minato-ku, where the legendary 47Ronin are buried.

And still Tokyo offers so much more. Animecan be enjoyed at the Ghibli Studio or in theshops in Nakano. Electronics are featured inShinjuku and Akihabara and for those whohave an affinity for robots, can enjoy the dis-play in the Sony Building or head to the showat the Robot Restaurant. Shopping and fash-ion, street markets, coffee shops, Disneyland,parks, architectural wonders, music venues,the nearby hot springs in Hakone, and even aphoto visit to the grounds of the ImperialPalace, allow for the ultimate in fulfilling cityholidays. Set the myths aside and head toTokyo. It's one amazing city.

www.gotokyo.org

all within one hours driving distance include, Blue Mussel Cafe inRustico, Malpeque Oyster Bar, Malpeque and Carr's Oyster Bar inFrench river.

If you like to fish for your supper the Island has numerous boatcharters, from party boats going out for a few hours jigging formackerel, to private deep sea excursions for big game fish.

Island's End Tuna Charters in Tignish, offers the chance to catchBluefin tuna, some of which can weigh in over 544 kilograms. Butthat will set you back at $1,250 per day. Or you can go for a $40 boat trip fishing for cod and mackerel atCambell's Deep Sea Fishing in Covehead.

Although the island features many artists, Tony Diodato displayssuperb PEI landscapes and seascapes. Certainly worth a visit to histwo-floor studio in Springbrook off Route 20.

Cottage living is the favored accommodation on the island.Whether you chose from cozy one room units to luxury homes, mostare close to favored beach regions. For example, a two bedroomcottage, Aunt Elizabeth Cottages in Seaview runs for $1,450 perweek.

You can travel to PEI by air, or take the 12.9-kilometerConfederation Bridge, from Cape Jourinan, NB, or the ferry fromCaribou, NS.

www.tourismpei.com

Where in Canada do you find balmy beach weather, a per-fect vacation getaway that many Canadians overlook.Prince Edward Island of course, where the 800 kilometers

of sandy red, expansive beaches feature a warm 21 degrees allsummer.

It is a premier family or couples island who desire a calm, peacefuland quiet vacation, where dogs can roam on the beaches and swimin the ocean, and couples can walk for miles without seeing anoth-er person. At night the family can celebrate on the beaches in frontof a bonfire and sprinkle the sky with fireworks.

Nightlife on PEI is relegated mainly to Charlottetown as folks tendto go to the island for the outdoor activities, like golfing by the seaat any of the 33 golf courses, or biking the low rolling hills whereevery turn presents a new vista of the lush farmlands and abundantwell-manicured lawns.

For water activities there are seven provincial parks that charge adaily admission, Cavendish or Cabot, or for those that prefer thepath less traveled, venture down dirt roads to your own private spotwith few souls walking the sands.

The two large towns, both less than a hour apart are Summersideand Charlottetown. Charlottetown, the cradle of Confederation hasa diversity of restaurants and charming pubs.

Prince Edward Island, as you would expect, has many seafoodrestaurants in all price ranges. A few very exceptional restaurants,

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L a z y s u m m e r d a y s i n P r i n c e E d w a r d I s l a n dA r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y R o n Pa q u e t

we’re surrounded by zebra (dizzying!). Laterthat evening, lazy lions lie all over the roadblocking our only way home (ideal, if onlythe light hadn’t been too dim to get a sharpphotograph). Elsewhere we see giraffe, ele-phant, warthog and even a rare Cape fox,curled up for warmth just as the sun rises.

But to see the most authentic animal behav-iours, watch the waterholes.

At every meal on Ongava’s viewing deck, Ikeep a sharp eye on the waterhole. I enjoyedmy Namibian breakfasts, lunches and din-ners (including, a little guiltily, some elandmeat), but I see the lions grow gaunter everyday.

When it’s time to leave, I take one last lookat the waterhole. I’ve switched allegiance.

”Go Team Lion!”

“Watch out, eland!” I say it quietly. I don’twant to scare the already skittish eland anyfurther.

Though the biggest antelopes of Africa --think moose-sized, with a square-ish cow-shaped body -- these giant eland sensedthere were lions nearby. They aren’t wrong.

Our eyes are glued as they cautiously sipfrom the waterhole while we (considerablyless cautiously) sip our sundowners. As thesun sinks, the nervous herd gathers closertogether, while we observe from atop thewide deck of the lodge at the Ongava GameReserve. We’re in Namibia, in the southwestcorner of Africa.

At the base of the viewing deck is steady traf-fic of both predator and prey. They come inturns, the lions languid, the rhinos noncha-lant, and every antelope very cautious. Theyare all thirsty in the dry Namibian winter.

While refreshing my gin and tonic (an extraprecaution against malaria, right?), the bar-tender tells me that the lions are hungry asthey haven’t had a kill in several days. I feela little sorry for them, but I’m on Team Eland.

Throughout our stay at Ongava, we alter-nate between watching wildlife from the

Land Rover and the viewing deck. Earlier inour trip we’d been able to watch wildlifefrom the ground too. We tracked cheetah onfoot at Okonjima’s Africat Foundation andenjoyed 20 silent minutes gazing at their sur-prisingly long bodies while sitting in the sandjust a few metres away.

This is Namibia, where safari opportunitiesabound.

It is hard to decide which type of safari I pre-fer. While you don’t see as much game on awalking safari, being out in a game reservewithout the protection of a vehicle or up on aviewing deck certainly gets your adrenalineup, especially if you’re tracking cheetah.

Unique in Namibia is the opportunity to doanother walking safari of sorts. Visitors slow-ly climb the shifting sands of ochre dunes towatch the sunrise over the Namib Desert.After a hot breakfast under a tree, they walkinto the desert across dry salt pans to see900-year-old petrified camel thorn trees. Theviews are spectacular and a photographer’sdream.

On a driving safari, you can get very close tothe animals. Sometimes they’re aware ofyour presence, and sometimes they don’tseem to notice you at all. One afternoon

N a m i b i a

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Johanna Read is a Vancouver-based free-lance writer and photographer specializingin travel and food. She's eaten well in 48countries (and counting!) and is trying torepeat her feat of visiting six continents inone year. Follow Johanna on Instagram@TravelEaterJohanna and on Twitter@TravelEater. Check out all her travels atwww.TravelEater.net.

on how to make the most of our trip whilekeeping to our budget.

One of many recommendations was tobegin our journey by landing in San Diegoand finishing with San Francisco. Ideal, thetrip would allow us to visit all the wonderfuldestinations in between, such as La Jolla,Los Angeles, Hollywood beach, BeverlyHills, magnificent views along Highway 1,the beautiful wine region of San LuisObispo, Santa Barbara, Carmel By theSea, Monterey, the famous Red wood trees,and Napa Valley. Last but not least, wecould not wait to experience tastingCalifornia’s renowned worldwide cuisine offresh regional produce and pairing thesewith local California wines

told you the location would fall in place onits own... California it is!

Preparing for California

California is such a beautiful state and Iwanted to make the most of our 10 dayjourney. Being a Canadian world traveller,I have learned that mapping out your tripahead of time is the best way to insure sat-isfaction.

With a plan in mind of where we wanted tosee and what we wanted to do, we soughtout the expertise of the California tourismoffice.

They provided us with some great insights

B e e n d r e a m i n g o f

San Diego La Jolla Santa Monica Los Angeles Beverly Hills Hollywood Santa Barbara San

At the beginning of each year, myhusband and I make our wish listof places we would love to visit in

the coming year. With so many places tosee, we take on this task with enthusiasmand prioritize our three key criteria: 1- Timeof year we are both free for traveling 2-What we want to see and do and 3- Whichcountry we want to explore… usually bythen the location just falls in place!

In 2015, our dream-trip would take placein mid-fall. There would be no guided tourfor us on this trip. Just a car, us and theopen road! Map in hand, we travelled atour leisure while enjoying good weather,spectacular scenery and lingering on insome of the best cities in North America! I

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C a l i f o r n i a

A r t i c l e b y N ata l i e A y o t t e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y M i c h a e l M o r c o s

Luis Obispo Highway 1 Carmel-by-the-sea Monterrey San Francisco Muir Woods Napa Valley

San Diego & La Jolla

Starting your California trip with San Diegomakes a lot of sense. If you are like us, youneed a couple of days to unwind, get intovacation mode, and catch up on some R&Rbefore starting new adventures. This waswhy the California tourism office proposedthat we stay in La Jolla, located within a fewkilometers of San Diego. This jewel of a cityis well-known to Californians for its beauti-ful beaches and cliffs, high end shopping,fine restaurants and year round tropicalweather – absolutely perfect for us!

I was most excited about our first destinationand wasted no time after landing, we pickedup our car and headed to the beautiful and

luxurious La Valencia Hotel, also known asThe Pink Lady of La Jolla. We purposelychose La Valencia, part of the PreferredHotels Worldwide, for its classical Spanisharchitecture. Built in 1926 as an apartmenthotel, it has survived many transformationsand now boasts 114 luxurious guest rooms.As I walked through the lobby, I was imme-diately transported to an exotic and beauti-ful Mediterranean hotel and fell in love withit on the spot! (You can read more about thisgreat hotel in the Stay & Play section of thisissue).

Once unpacked, showered and rested, weleft our magnificent ocean front villa to walkalong La Jolla’s coastline, just steps awayfrom our hotel. We feasted on the magnifi-cent views of breathtaking beaches andwalked along dramatic cliffs, sandy expans-es and secluded coves. With camera inhand, I immortalized splendid ocean views,swimmers, sunbathers, snorkelers, surfers,and dozens upon dozens of seals restingcomfortably on shores. Time just seemed tostand still for us as we drank-up the beauti-ful coastline before us. Fully content, wemade our way back to La Valencia Hotelwith a mind to enjoy the last speck of thesun’s setting into the ocean from our privateterrace while sipping on a glass ofCalifornia cabernet sauvignon. Perfectlyromantic!

California Dining

Our first dining experience took us to Nine-Ten restaurant located in the GrandeColonial Hotel, just minutes walking dis-tance from La Valencia. Nine-Ten definesitself as a unique seasonal style of “EvolvingCalifornia Cuisine”! Under the supervisionof Chef Jason Knibb, named “Chef of theyear – San Diego 2014” by the CaliforniaRestaurant Association, he is known to pre-pare delicious meals from fresh producebrought in by local artisans from their dailyharvest. I enjoyed a sumptuous swordfish,paired with a California wine - A wonderfulway to end our first day!

After a restful sleep that helped us recoverfrom jet lag, we were ready to hit the pave-ment and discover the hidden treasureswithin the vicinity of La Jolla. Our morningcomprised of visiting two major attractions:The Museum of Contemporary Art SanDiego in La Jolla, showcasing an interna-tionally recognized collection by some ofthe world’s most renowned contemporaryartists followed by a visit to The BirchAquarium at Scripps, where you can viewcoral reefs, sharks, jellyfish and much more.


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end, we decided to offer ourselves a realtreat. For our 3rd dinner affair we choseIsland Prime, a restaurant set on stiltsabove San Diego Bay, overlooking the cityskyline and Coronado. It is by far the mostbeautiful panoramic view of the region.The service and the food were sublime witheverything cooked to perfection. We hadthe pleasure of meeting the renowned chefDeborah Scott, who gave us a taste ofsome delicious appetizers. To finish off thiswonderful meal, our waiter insisted we trythe Retro Island Prime Mud Pie, with apromise that we would not be able to pol-ish it off… he was right, I had never seensuch a huge piece of pie. With a pang ofsorrow, we left the following morning withmore than 200 pictures with a few memen-toes in our luggage on our way to our sec-ond adventure… Los Angeles!

Welcome to LA!

Because it’s only a 2 hour drive from SanDiego to Los Angeles, we knew that wewould have extra time on our hands beforechecking in to our hotel. We planned ourday well in advance to maximise our timein LA with our first stop being Santa Monicaand Venice beach! It was a perfect autumnday, blue sky, peaceful and beautiful, sucha nice way to enjoy the moment along theboardwalk. After lunch, we moved ontoVenice beach, which does not quite havethe same tranquility as Santa Monica. It isfilled with street vendors and unusual storesand entertainment like some awesomeskateboarding from locals. I was amazedby their agility, speed and talent. We heardmusic from street performers and gospelfrom street preachers. We saw peopletraining in an open-air gym located at‘Muscle beach’. Venice beach is a placewhere you could spend an entire day justpeople watching, it is entertaining, livelyand filled with action. We left reluctantly,but with purpose to be on time for a veryspecial activity, a grand tour of WarnerBrothers Studios.

After a delicious lunch at the Ocean ViewTerrace in La Valencia Hotel, we met withLynda Forsha, Program Curator for theMurals of La Jolla. Lynda took us on a guid-ed tour of the spectacular Murals of LaJolla. Each mural had a very personal storythat are well worth seeing. We pursued ourartistic discovery by strolling through LaJolla’s the many beautiful galleries. Wesuggest you stop in to see the Secret Art ofDr. Seuss at Legends Gallery, and the newNational Geographic Gallery, as both arequite impressive to see.

For our second dining excursion, we lookedfor something simple and laid back, some-thing authentically Mexican… We foundjust the perfect place at Galaxy Taco, in LaJolla, where chef Trey Foshee’s pays hom-age to Mexican culture and cuisine. You willsurely enjoy their various tacos rooted inthe flavor and traditions of Mexico. Theirtortillas are handmade and crafted withfresh masa pressed on-site daily. I enjoyedtrying their specialty, lamb barbacoa.

We started our last day visiting San Diegoat the famous and renowned San DiegoZoo, known worldwide for its natural ani-mal habitats, including their ever so popu-lar Giant Pandas. It is truly a magnificent,well organised, impeccable Zoo and wellworth visiting. We then moved on to theBalboa Park, where we enjoyed visitingnumerous museums. After lunch, westrolled along the San Diego Harbor, andvisited the retired aircraft carrier USSMidway. My husband was so excited to viewthe collection of war planes on board, rem-iniscing on all those toy models he built asa young boy. Our last sightseeing venturewas to go on board the San Diego Harborcruise and Sea Lion adventure for a har-bour tour in San Diego Bay which is a greatway to see all the various maritime heritagealong the Bay including a prominent U.S.Navy presence, among many other vessels(cruise ships, recreational sailing etc)

As our journey in San Diego came to an


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WB -A must while in LA

For about $60 American, you will get a 2hour guided tour through iconic backlotswhere great movies and TV shows werefilmed. You will get to visit the Archive toview the Batman and Harry Potter exhibits,and also the Picture Car Vault, which is aroom transformed into a BATCAVE thatexhibits incredible Batmobiles used in thefilms like the Tumbler, Bat-Hammer and theBat-Pod. You will also be shown theCentral Perk set from FRIENDS and enjoy aphoto-op while lounging on the famouscouch with coffee in hand! You can thenfinish your tour with a self-guided visit toStage 48 (script to screen), where you willexplore the key phases of the entertainmentproduction process at how the magic ofHollywood is made, and if you wish, take apicture with a real Oscar – expect this partof the tour to take an extra 45 minutes butit is well worth it!

By the time we left the WB Studios, we wereready for a little rest at our hotel before din-ner. We checked in at the Loews HollywoodHotel, downtown LA, located in the middleof all the action! You will find the DolbyTheater (where the Academy awards cere-monies are held) adjacent to the hotel withthe Walk of Fame, TCL Chinese Theater,and much more. Our room had the viewof the famous Hollywood hills, with the«HOLLYWOOD» sign bright and clear rightin the middle. (You can read more aboutthis great hotel in the Stay & Play section ofthis issue).

Over years of travelling, I have come toappreciate a certain routine; rise early,sightsee all day, return back to hotel in lateafternoon for some rest and cocktailsbefore heading back out for dinner and anight-out in town… So what pleasure it wasto just sit back comfortably, catch up on mytravel journal, and sip on some perfectChardonnay while munching on delectablelocal cheeses… ah the beautiful life!

Dinner in LA

For our 4th dining experience, we wantedto choose wisely, as dinning in Los Angelescan be overwhelming, with hundreds ofrestaurants to choose from and manyrequiring reservations dates in advance… Ifyou have an idea of what you want prior toleaving, book ahead – that’s what we did!Friends of ours recommended we try Birch,a quaint little restaurant located onCahuenga Blvd., and about a 15 minutewalk from our Hotel. Ever curious, I waseager to try out some of the many ravedabout dishes posted on line and producedby Chef Brendan Collin. As you enter, youcan tell you will enjoy yourself after beinggreeted by a charming hostess. This smalland cozy restaurant is bustling busy and byfar, a local favorite!

The portions are smaller and you maychoose to share several dishes with friends.We particularly enjoyed the rabbit baklavawith dates, white beans, pistachios and car-rots, and the monkfish tikka masala withbasmati rice cracker. Everything was fresh,elegantly served and delicious.

How to make the most of your one day stayin LA!

With our two Starline Tour passes (about$40 US each), we had a choice of six dif-ferent colour code routes to choose from.Each route will take an average of 1 to 2hours from beginning to end. Of course,you can hop off anywhere the bus stops,and hop on back again, it is important tofactor this in your time schedule if youchoose to do multiple routes… Since wealready had done some sightseeing theprevious day, we chose the red route, whichis a two hour ride through Hollywood andBeverly Hills. We hopped-off in BeverlyHills and walked along the famous RodeoDrive looking inside chic boutiques eagerto spot anyone famous! By late afternoon Ikept shopping while my husband went tothe downtown core.


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mate. We were heading for San LuisObispo, a wonderful and well known wineregion of California populated by artisanvintners and family-owned wineries. Theregion is unique for its distinct growingconditions, from oceanfront settings towide-open back roads. You can cover theentire vineyard region within a 30 minutedrive. Vineyards closest to the pacificoceans amid the rugged Santa LuciaMountain range boast of their unique soilsand cooler environment, said to bring outexceptional balance and flavours to theirwine.

Our 6th dining experience was a memo-rable one! We were invited to dine withlocal winemakers under the stars in theheart of the Edna Valley at SLO Wine’sCrafted on the Coast Winemaker Dinner.Dinner was prepared by the acclaimed chefJulie Simon, and paired with wines present-ed by winemakers/proprietors RyanDeovlet (Biddle Ranch), Tom Greenough(Saucelito Canyon), Steve Autry (AutryCellars), Christian Roguenant (NivenFamily Wines), Don & Gwen Othman(Kynsi), Coby Parker-Garcia (Claiborne &Churchill) and Mike Sinor (Sinor-LaVallee.An evening that will forever be etched intomy memory. I truly saw the passion and theart in each of these winemakers. Manythanks to Heather Muran for inviting us tothis wonderful and memorable soirée!

The next day, after being well-rested at theSands Inn and Suites, we ate with MollyCano, from the visitors’ centre, who tooktime to show us around Downtown San LuisObispo. It is such a quaint, charming townand I only wish I had an extra day to lingerhere. Don’t pass on this little jewel, it’s likea hidden secret and deserves to be discov-ered.

Picture Perfect Highway 1

This was our most exciting and anticipateddrive... We have seen beautiful places in

For our 5th dining experience, we chose toeat at The Hungry Cat, located on VineStreet. This restaurant serves excellent highquality seafood – we ate their clam chow-der for starters, and enjoyed Oysters, friesand beer as the main meal, the perfectcomfort food for our busy day. Of coursethis being LA, we enjoyed our meal out-doors. As we gazed at the stars reminiscingon our two day stay in Los Angeles, wewere very impressed by the city’s charm.Not one to enjoy large crowds, I felt verysecure in Los Angeles, it is a clean city, andthe locals are friendly and courteous andthe food is exquisite – Magnifique!

Santa Barbara

We would take the next couple of days todrive through some spectacular vistas. Ourfirst destination was Santa Barbara to enjoya few hours in this charming city. We firstdrove to the famous Stearns Wharf whichis California’s oldest wooden working Warf.I got an eyeful of the beautiful ocean andSanta Ynez Mountain. There were notmany sunbathers on the beach on thisNovember day, but none the less, thebeach was beautiful and tranquil. Wedecided to linger on for lunch, by walkingalong State Street, built with cobblestoneand filled with fun boutiques and restau-rants. Before leaving, we finished our tourof the city center at the Santa BarbaraCourthouse, where we saw how SantaBarbara became the city it is known todaypainted on the walls of the courtroom. Wealso climbed to the clock tower to enjoy onelast spectacular view of the city and its sur-rounding.

San Luis Obispo

We had about a 1½ hour drive ahead ofus, just before night fall. As we drovealong, we could see the effect of months ofarid climate had on fields and mountains,but surprisingly, we also saw beautiful fieldsof grapes, vegetables and fruits growingever so stubbornly amidst this difficult cli-


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this world, but this was by far the mostspectacular coastal scenery I have seen,with a pure blue, clear California sky!Highway 1 offers spectacular views allaround, and my poor husband had to driveinfinite curves, with each new turn we werein awe with the scenery. You must add onextra time to your trip, because you will bemaking several stops along the way. Youwill also need to give your driver some timeto enjoy the views as well, and some rest,as it is not an easy drive with all the upsand downs and curves and listening to thepassenger going ooh and ahh every otherminute is quite distracting. There are sev-eral trails along the way for those that wishto make it a full day activity. Just take yourtime and enjoy this drive, it is well worth it!

We arrived at Carmel by the Sea just 30minutes before sunset. Enough time tocheck in to Hofsas House, a quaint hotel setin the higher part of Carmel, on San CarlosStreet. We unloaded our luggage, put onour running shoes and made our way tothe beach for a memorable sunset picture,where, upon arrival, we were not surprisedto see hundreds of people doing the exactsame thing!

We walked slowly back to our hotel, brows-ing through the numerous little stores, gal-leries and coffee shops. Carmel is the per-fect town for artists, I could see the painterin me, dying to set up my easel and capturethe magnificent views of this charming city,but after a long day traveling on Highway1, it would be an early dinner for us at thelocal Pizza place, get to bed early, fortomorrow would also be another busy daytraveling.

Monterrey to San Francisco

Depending on how much time you plannedon staying in this magnificent region, theMonterrey Peninsula will provide you withbreathtaking views of coastal bluffs, sandybeaches, nature trails, vineyards, golf

courses and much more. We were up earlythe next day to make the most of the fewprecious hours left on our schedule to enjoythis splendid area. Since we spent most ofour previous day driving on highway 1 andgot our fill of breathtaking views, we decid-ed to visit the Monterey Cannery Row dis-trict and the Monterey Bay Aquarium. TheMonterey Bay Aquarium offers an amazingview of the sea-world. It is a beautifulAquarium, very interactive for small chil-dren and well known for its school pro-grams. They offer multiple exhibitions suchas the Tentacles, Giant Pacific Octopus, theMonterey Bay Habitats, the Open Sea, theRocky Shore, the Sandy shore, Sea Ottersand the Penguins. Both my husband and Iwere amazed by the grandeur of thisaquatic monument. After spending a cou-ple of hours indoors, we opted for a lovelywalk around the oceanfront district whereyou can find some great gift shops, restau-rants and galleries. Satisfied with ourmorning adventure, we left this beautifulregion with countless mementos, anxious toget to our next destination!

San Francisco and much more

It’s about a 2 ½ hour drive from Monterreyto San Francisco, so we headed directly toour hotel. We wanted to quickly unpack,freshen up and enjoy the last vestige of thesun in this fun city. We stayed at the Pier2620 Hotel – fisherman’s wharf– located at2620 Jones Street. This quaint hotel boasts233 guest rooms and is located in historicFisherman’s Wharf, 3 blocks from Pier 39,a couple of blocks away from both theCable Car turnaround and the street carline. As we wanted our last three days to beperfect, we opted for a suite, enjoying thecomfort of a larger room, decorated withnautical flair, comfortable couch and cozythrow to lounge on after a long walk in thiswindy city! All this would have to wait for weonly had a few hours of daylight left to tourSan Francisco. (You can read more aboutthis great hotel in the Stay & Play section ofthis issue).


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After spending a couple of hours in theMuir Woods we were ready to go back. Wearrived in San Francisco with enough timeto visit the city in broad day light (sun setsearly in November). Using our city passes,we enjoyed a city tour with the hop-on-hop-off buses, learning about some of SanFrancisco’s history, finishing up in the citycenter for some last minute shopping.

Our last Californian dinner was at the FogHarbor Fish house at Pier 39. This favoritelocal family owned and operated restau-rant offers the freshest seafood in SanFrancisco. The menu is rich in variousseafood dishes ready to please everyone’spalate. Located on the second floor of thePier, our table offered a beautiful view ofthe Pier 39 Sea Lions. While my husbandenjoyed their award winning Clam chow-der (best one he’s ever had) for startersbefore getting his Surf and Turf meal, I pre-ferred to leave room for my Shellfish Platter– garnished with crab, mussels, clams,shrimps and much more… What a delight-ful meal, everything served with perfecttaste and attention, an excellent service, amemorable night!

Last day – Napa Valley!

It is said that first impression always staysbut I also think that what you do on yourlast day is often what you cherish themost… I have enjoyed on this trip the won-derful sceneries, delicious food and not theleast the fantastic wine. Our journey toNapa would take us to two spectacularwineries of the region. Our first stop was atthe V Sattui Winery, a CaliforniaWinemaking Family tradition spanningthree Centuries and 2015 Winemaker ofthe Year!

Under the direction of Brooks Painter, TheSattui Winery is located on a 38 acreorganically farmed Vineyard in St-Helenaand produces more than 60 different high-ly rated wines from 20 different grape vari-

Our first destination took us to theFisherman’s Wharf where we enjoyed walk-ing along the many piers. All along youwill see great shops, delicious sea foodrestaurants, and great views of the city. Fordinner, we chose a quick meal and had thefamous fresh Dungeness crab servedsteaming hot at one of the many outdoorstands – delectable experience! Oncestomachs were satisfied, we wanted toexperience a ride on the renowned and his-torical San Francisco cable car beforegoing back to our hotel. From UnionSquare, we enjoyed our first ride throughthe steep hills and great city views. To makethe best of this unique transport system,ride the Powell cars leaving from theFisherman’s Wharf area. There are tworoutes to choose from, both start and endat the same place. We experienced the rideduring the day and at night and it was fun!

After a restful sleep and hardy breakfast,with our San Francisco cityPass book inhand, we made our way to the Sightseeingoffice to visit the Muir Woods! We chose theearliest ride (9am) on the schedule in orderto avoid the larger crowds, and return backas early as possible to tour and discovermore of San Francisco city in the afternoon.On your way to Muir Woods, you will enjoycrossing the famous San Francisco BayBridge – the bus will make a stop at abeautiful vista area allowing you to takesome post card pictures of the magnificentview and the famous red bridge! You willthen drive by Sausalito city towards moun-tainous terrain for a breathtaking drive.Once we arrived at our destination, I wasinstantly taken by the beauty of this middleaged Redwood forest, where the averageage of trees range from 400 to 800 years.The oldest Redwood tree in California isabout 2200 years old. It is a challenge forme to describe in details the majestic andpowerful scenery that stood in front of us,but to say that I was enthralled by this expe-rience is to say the least…


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eties and are sold exclusively from the win-ery. We enjoyed a personal tour of thisunique Winery Estate, with its multiplerooms of award winning wines, mementosof family history, the famous Visitors Hall ofFame room, and much more. Our grandfinale was, of course, the wine tastingroom, where we enjoyed tasting some oftheir finest wines. We were then left on ourown to browse in the Winery store while apicnic was being prepared for us by thefolks of Sattui. Their store is filled withgreat foods, artisanal cheeses, great char-cuteries, and all sorts of other products thatmake choosing the perfect wine bottle amemorable experience! I could not resist abottle of their 2012 Doctor’s Vineyard PinotNoir and their 2012 Napa ValleyCabernet. With our picnic ready, we movedto a superb outdoor terrace facing a beau-tiful rose garden still blooming inNovember, to enjoy a delightful meal filledwith local produce. This was truly a won-derful way to end this tour, sitting just thetwo of us enjoying great views, while feast-ing on great food and great wine. For moreinformation on The Sattui Winery, pleasevisit their site at : https://www.vsattui.com

Our second destination, The CairdeanEstate is also situated in St-Helena. Theestate is a one-of-a-kind wine and fooddestination offering multiple wine tastingexperiences along with spectacular diningand shopping.

Cairdean complements its contemporarywinery and tasting room with two uniquedining experiences: 1) The Farmer & TheFox restaurant, recipient of a 2015Michelin Bib Gourmand Award, is aEuropean-style gastropub in Napa Valley.Sourcing the best quality produce andingredients from local farms and produc-ers, its seasonal menu is a creative andlocally-inspired ode to the classics dishes ofScottish and English pubs. Closed for thewinter season, but will open for private din-ing experiences.

2) Butterscots Bakery & Deli, is an artisanbakery, deli and culinary boutique servingdistinctive, hand-made baked goods andpicnic provisions - sandwiches, pastas, sal-ads and sweets - inspired by Scottish andEnglish heritage. Here also, the menus arelocally-inspired using fresh ingredientssourced from farmers and vendors in theNapa Valley and Bay Area. Enjoy the won-derful view of the Mayacamas Mountainswhile savouring your favourite dish pairedwith a perfect glass of wine. For moreinformation please refer tohttp://www.cairdeanestate.com/.

After these two magnificent visits, we decid-ed to do a pit stop at the Culinary Instituteof America (CIA) located only a few min-utes from the Sattui and Cairdean Wineriesin St-Helena. This is a unique and inspiringcampus for food and wine education,where great future chefs are schooled.Many well-known personages havereceived their education through CIA, suchas Anthony Bourdain and Scott Jones toname a few… Founded in 1946, The CIAis the world’s premier culinary college, andhas been setting the standard for excel-lence in professional culinary education.

The ending to a perfect trip, spending aday in the great Napa Valley, eating greatfood paired with the best wines !

As we drove back to our hotel in SanFrancisco, my husband asked if I had afavorite activity in the course of our trip…through great difficulty in choosing, I haveto admit that I will forever remember themost spectacular coastal drive on Highway1 from LA to Carmel… Safe travels!

www.visitcalifornia.com


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I s r a e l

On the last night of our whirlwindsix day visit to Israel, I sat on mybalcony at the David Citadel

Hotel. Before me was the illuminated stonewall of the Old City of Jerusalem and at 6:00pm the sound of church bells mingled with amuezzin’s call to prayer; a melodious expres-sion of different faiths that has gone on forcenturies. It was my first visit to Israel in 25years and I could not help but think of theexpression “The more things change, themore they stay the same”.

Change was evident from the moment welanded. At Tel-Aviv’s Ben Gurion Airport, Iwas half-expecting to see the old woodenterminal building and not a Moshe Safdie-designed architectural wonder. However, onour way north to Haifa, the place names:Ramat Gan, Herzeliyah, Netanya and thecolourful bougainvillea along the supermodern highway started to bring back thatcomfort feeling associated with visiting anold friend.

In Haifa we ascended Mount Carmel for apanoramic view of the city. Before us, com-prising a staircase of nineteen terraces, werethe Baha’i Gardens with the iconic golden-domed Shrine of the Bab. Across Haifa Baylay the Crusader city of Akko and beyondthat, the white cliffs of Rosh Hanikra wheregrottos carved out by the Mediterranean Searest near the Lebanese border. It’s areminder not only of the relative small size ofIsrael (it’s about a 7 hour drive from north tosouth), but also the fact that every kilometer

A Dynamic, Reflective ExperienceA r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y S t e v e G i l l i c k

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Top; Sunrise on the Dead SeaFrom left: The chapel on the Mount of Beatitutes,The synagogue at Capernaum, Cesarea's RomanAqueduct, Buying fresh fruit juice on the street inTel Aviv, King Herod's Fortress on Masada,Machane Yehuda, The Tel Aviv waterfront stretchesfor miles.

in the country packs a punch in terms of his-torical significance and natural wonders.

That evening we had dinner in Haifa’s pop-ular German Colony neighbourhood, whereFady Najjar, the owner of Douzan, explainedthat the restaurant’s name refers to “a tunedinstrument”. He said that Haifa was alwaysa meeting place of different people and cul-tures: Arabs, Jews and visitors from afar,and like a tuned instrument, the differentstrings have learned to get along and pro-duce music.

Fady then proceeded to amaze us with anassortment of salads (Lebanese andHalloumi) as well as Kibbeh with lamb andcheese, Eggplant parmesan, shish taouk(grilled chicken with a sesame dip), stuffedgrape leaves with yoghurt, and a choice ofwine and beer produced in both Israeli andArab towns. When we departed severalhours later, we looked up to see the lights onMount Carmel: A memorable meal, com-plemented by a memorable vista of Haifa.

Heading west to the Sea of Galilee, we visit-ed the Mount of Beatitudes where hundredsof pilgrims arrive daily to see where Jesusdelivered the Sermon on the Mount. Afterwandering in the gardens to view the Sea ofGalilee, we journeyed on to Capernaum,known as the town of Jesus. Amidst the ruinsof the Synagogue where Jesus preached, thestones reveal carvings that depict aspects oflife from 2000 years ago: seashells, flowers,grapes, pomegranates, a menorah and theArk of the Covenant.

In Binyamina, located in the northern winedistrict, we stopped at Tishbi Winery to meetGolan, the 5th generation owner. With theidea of turning wine tasting into a true culi-nary adventure, we tasted freshly madebreads and macaroons in the bakery, sawthe chocolate tasting room where visitorswere enjoying samples (flights) of chocolateand learning to pair them with wines, andthen, as we passed through the dining area,our host stopped suddenly. `Have you eatenlunch yet? No? Then you must stay and bemy guest”. Golan poured glasses ofViognier wine for a toast to our visit, andthen brought out an absolutely delicious Red

Cabernet to complement the feast that waslaid out before us. The motto of the wineryis “Friendship is the wine of Life” and Golancertainly demonstrated his passion for realiz-ing this objective.

In the late afternoon we reached Cesarea, atown built over 2000 years ago. Weexplored the ruins that tell tales from theRoman, Muslim, Crusader and Mamluk con-quests, up to the Ottoman Period and theBritish Mandate. At sunset we joined severaldozen locals alongside the Mediterranean,to watch a glorious sunset from the ancientRoman Aqueduct.

We continued on to Tel-Aviv and checkedinto the Market House Hotel, a boutiqueproperty that sits on the Jaffa/Tel-Aviv bor-der. The Jaffa area, once regarded with cau-tion, is now a trendy zone that attracts bothmillennials and boomers to enjoy outdoormusic and conversation at the cafes andpubs. But the area also provides easy walk-ing access to the boardwalk along the Sea,as well as the artist quarters. The next daywe dropped into the Ilana Goor Museum, amulti-story eclectic collection of paintings,sculptures, masks and creations by the artistand her contemporaries. In the afternoonwe drove through Tel Aviv’s White City, theworld’s largest collection of Bauhaus archi-tecture (a UNESCO World Cultural HeritageSite) before settling into Felafix where, for 7Shekels (about $2.00 US). you get a huge,fresh, falafel in pita with as much tahini andhot sauce as you wish.

And the culinary bliss didn’t stop there. AtThe Tasting Room we shared a few of the 40Israeli wines on display with Roni Saslove,the owner and wine maker who studied inOntario’s Niagara Region. Roni noted thatthe growing popularity of wine (“one of thebeautiful things in Israel”) is based on thefact that “You don’t have to understand it oreven how to pronounce it…just put it in yourmouth and your body will tell you if you likeit or not”.

The evening concluded at the home ofMaayan and Moshe Carmel, who are part ofthe “Eat With” program, designed to intro-duce visitors to unique foods and warm fam-

ily experiences. Our hosts were notonly exceptionally personable (alongwith their happy dog, Toffee) but thePersian-style food they prepared was sensa-tional.

But there was more! The next day we droveabout 90 minutes to the Dead Sea areawhere we took the cable car up to Masada,the fortress built by Herod the Great and thesite where 960 Jewish zealots took their ownlives, rather than live as captives and slavesof the Romans.

Further south we piled into a jeep with guideBarak Horwitz from Camel Lot Tours andbounced and jostled our way up a steep,rocky path to the summit of the lowest moun-tain on earth. With the Dead Sea sitting at400 feet below sea level, the SedomMountains tower at minus 200 feet. Theview from the top is spectacular with theDead Sea, Jordan and the Moab Mountainsin the distance.

And finally on our 5th day we stood onMount Scopus looking at the city ofJerusalem, spread out before us. We touredthe Old City from the Jaffa Gate to theChurch of the Holy Sepulchre, and throughthe tunnels under the Western Wall. We vis-ited Machane Yehuda, the vibrant JewishMarket, as well as the Shrine of the Book,where the Dead Sea Scrolls are housed.

Six days in Israel was only the tip of the ice-berg. On my first visit in 1976, I travelledwith friends from north to south in six weeksand still didn’t see all the natural wonders,small towns and all the attractions that thecountry offers. But without doubt, this was agreat taste of what Israel has to offer andcertainly a prologue to future visits to discov-er more about the people, food, art, archi-tecture, history and traditions of such adynamic travel destination.

www.goisrael.com


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S c o t l a n d56

The Tr u ly Bonnie Banks o f Loch Lomondby Susan Campbe l l

This was my first trip to Scotland, andthough I am of Scottish heritage(Campbell and Fairbairn clans are

my ancestors six generations ago,) forsome reason retracing my roots there wasnever big on my bucket list. But when theopportunity to try out WestJet’s new direct(same aircraft) flight from Toronto viaHalifax to Glasgow came up, I decided itwas high time to visit the “auld sod”. A fewdays in Glasgow, Edinburgh and at thefamous Gleneagles Resort was the plan,but the first stop I wanted to make was tovisit the famous “Loch Lomond”.

The Cameron House-

A Cozy Manor

I’m not sure if we took the “high road” orthe “low road” to get there, but one thingwas certain as we arrived at the grandestate mansion of the five-star CameronHouse Hotel, the banks of Loch Lomondare indeed very “bonnie”. Once out of thecar, the first thing I spotted was a cute littlelemon yellow biplane docked in the waterjust off the entrance of the hotel. It was sur-rounded by rich greens of the rolling hillsand the scarlet leaves of the changing trees-it was November- and it made for a stun-ning natural scene. But what really struckme was how much the nature resembledour own cottage country up in NorthernQuebec or in the Eastern Townships. Itmade me feel very much at home. Yet onceI entered the posh lobby, it was clear I was-n’t home anymore. Overstuffed century-oldchairs and stuffed heads of large game-deer and boar- poking out of the walls inthe burnished wood anteroom manned bykilt-clad doormen quickly reminded methat now I really was in Scotland!

An Eclectic Range of Vibes

But as old world gentleman’s club the lobbycame across as, the rest of the resort wassurprising in its airiness, natural lightenclaves and modern upscale allure. Notstuffy or dreary at all. And I adored myroom. The thick, dark tartan wool blanketsand heavy curtains were offset by bright,

thoughtful accents and a lovely bay windowlooking onto the lake. And there weremany high tech amenities, too. But as wel-coming as my new abode was, I had lots ofproperty to explore and first up of coursewas the “loch”.

Sadly, there was a very large wedding partyon site that weekend and the adorable littleyellow biplane that offers aerial tours of thelake was booked solid. But we did get outon the water anyway as they have a privatelittle luxury yacht that also takes you explor-ing. As we cruised along, tiny castles andsprawling estates poked through the woodshere and there, and our guide wasextremely well informed on their history.Afterward, we went to themarina/boathouse for lunch.

On its own private little beach TheBoathouse exterior was heavily populatedby big flocks of geese and ducks enjoyingthe water as well as the handouts from theguests. Sailing, fishing, even jet skis rentalsare also offered there. But the surprise wasthe restaurant theme itself. The Boathouseis a large cottage style dining room with bigverandahs that’s far more New Englandthan old Scotland. Nary a haggis or bloodpudding on the menu! Instead, there werefish and chips and fresh seafood, gourmetburgers and even a brick oven for artisanalpizzas. Not at all what I expected. But wedid manage to go local on the drinks’ frontwith hearty stout beer and the excellentGlengoyne Scotch from the local distillery.

There are two other dining spots in thehotel -one a fancy Michelin star gourmetaffair which we didn’t get a chance to try,and the causal Cameron Grill that special-izes in steaks and even has a salmon bar.But we were quite happy with the grill- thefare is hearty but high quality, and theambience very cozy enhanced by roaringfires and a super friendly staff.

Activities & Escapes

Though I’m no golfer, we decided to take atour of the 27-hole course by golf cart any-way to view the scenery and the vistas of


the lake below were worth it. There’s alsoa point on the highest hill where you canstand with one foot officially in the lowlandsand the other foot in the highlands! Alsocool is an entire boat buried up to its bowon dry land that serves as a fun snack spotfor hungry and thirsty golfers. But it was thecomplex at the final hole that proved to bemy favorite- The Carrick Spa. Our guidetold us it’s also a favorite escape for non-golfing partners where they can get pam-pered while they wait for their mates to fin-ish play, and they can spot them coming infrom the gorgeous outdoor infinity pool.But you need not cart out the golf area forsome liquid luxury and relaxation. TheCameron Club right in the hotel is also amassive complex of pools, whirlpools,saunas, steam rooms, and also a fitnesscenter. And the entire club is all wrappedup in to ceiling-to-floor glass so you canenjoy views of the lake while you partake.

A Short But Sweet Stay

Throughout our visit, we found the staffwarm, welcoming and always good-humoured, no matter what our request.And though we ran out of time before weran out of pleasurable pastimes, it was anideal introduction to Scottish hospitality atits best. And I was very happy to finally seethe region made so famous by the song“The Bonnie Banks o’ Loch Lomond.” It wasan enchanting experience.

www.qhotels.co.uk/

our-locations/cameron-house

www.visitscotland.com

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Susa

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ampb

ell

Located in the Rio Grande Valley, eight kilo-metres from the Mexican border, McAllen isone of North America’s top birding destina-tions. Over 540 species have been spottedhere, as it’s both an important migrationroute and permanent home to an impres-sive number of feathered residents.

“You can get over 100 species in a singleday,” says Monica Barrera, an interpretivenaturalist at Edinburg Scenic Wetlands, oneof nine World Birding Centers in the valley.“And there are 39 species that you can’t see

in other spots.” Birds like the Green Jay, theGreat Kiskadee and Pauraque that rarelyventure farther north than the Rio Grande.

Occasionally, a rare bird from even farthersouth will stray across the border; andwhen that happens, there are birders whowill hop on the plane for the chance to seeit. The American Birding Association allowsonly birds spotted in Canada and US to becounted on their checklist. For enthusiastsworking on their ‘”life list” (all species seenin a lifetime) or a “big year” (all species

“Birding changed my life,” says BarbaraVolkle, a Boston Native. Like the birds sheobserves, Barbara migrates to McAllen,Texas each fall.

“It takes me out of the day-to-day,” sheexplains. “I look at the world differently.”

Barbara and her husband have been birdand butterfly watching for decades. But forme, it was my first birding adventure, and Icouldn’t have picked a better place for itthan McAllen, Texas.

Tropical Tweets and Mexican Treats in McAllen, Texas

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A r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y J e n n i f e r M e r r i c k

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seen in a calendar year), competition canbe stiff, and every bird matters.

This is good news for McAllen, Texas.“Every rare bird sighting counts for over$100,000 in revenue,” says Nancy Millar,director of McAllen Convention andVisitors’ Bureau. “Wildlife watchers bring in463 million dollars a year and 6, 600jobs.”

But I had arrived in McAllen without a list,or even, I’m embarrassed to admit, a pairof binoculars. It turns out I didn’t needeither to experience the thrill of seeing thebright tropical colours of the AltamiraOriole and the Great Kiskadee, or hearingthe talkative Chachalacas who were nevershy about making their presence knownwith their cries of “Chaaa – chaaa—laaac.”

There are 28 nature sites in the area, buthere are the ones that belong on every vis-itor’s itinerary.

Quinta Mazatlan

A 1930s country estate located in the city,Quinta Mazatlan is a “mansion with a mis-sion”, which is to protect the habitat homeof birds and wildlife. The Spanish Revivalarchitecture and eccentric history of theproperty is just as interesting as the trailsand surrounding woodlands where you’llspot the feathered stars.

It was here I spotted my first Green Jay, theofficial mascot of McAllen. I would seemany more of these striking and lovablefeathered friends throughout the trip.

Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State

Park

Next to the Mexican border, this 760-acreconservation area (combined with 1,700acres of adjoining U.S Fish and Wildliferefuge tract) is a bird-watcher’s paradise.Enclosed bird blinds and wall with open-ings, just big enough for a pair of binocu-lars or camera lens, allows you to get closeto these valley birds to observe them. Ahawk tower affords an expansive view ofthe Rio Grande, allowing you to see intoMexico. It was on this tower where we spot-

ted the most unusual wildlife sighting of thetrip – a waving polar bear, a remnant of anabandoned amusement park –as well asthe White-tailed Kite Hawk, Green Jays,Great Kiskadees, Atlamira Oriole, Golden-fronted Woodpecker and Chachalacas.

There were too many species to rememberand so I began to jot down my sightings.The beginning of a life list perhaps?

Santa Ana National Wildlife

Refuge

My list grew bigger at this wildlife refugeestablished in 1943 for the protection ofmigratory birds due to its positioning alongan east-west and north-south juncture oftwo important migratory routes. It was atthis location, I made my first sighting of aPauraque, an owl-like nocturnal bird foundmostly in South America. This sleepingbeauty was so well camouflaged that it tooka few minutes to distinguish it from the sur-rounding bushes.

The Spanish moss hanging from the treesin the park added an atmospheric elementto the romantic trails, though there’s alsoadventure in the form of a rope bridgebetween two lookout towers.

Estero Llano Grande State Park

“It’s a thrill every time you come,” said ParkRanger John Yoachan. “It’s never thesame.” For our group, the definite highlightwas a flock of more than 30 pelicans cir-cling above us. Riding the air currents, theyswooped and glided almost as though theywere putting on a show for us.

The wetlands here attract an impressivevariety of water birds, and I added theCinnamon Teal Duck, Mottled Duck, GreyEgret, Yellow Crowned Night Heron, LittleBlue Heron and an exquisite GreenKingfisher to my growing list.

It was the last birding outing of the trip, andby then my list for the trip numbered 37species. Whether this makes me a birder ornot, I don’t know, but the popular pastimeis definitely an enriching way to spend timein nature. And in McAllen, added to this

pleasure is warm southern sunshine,delectable Mexican cuisine andfriendly people, making it an unbeat-able bird-watching vacation.

www.mcallencvb.com

Cuisine

On the plane to McAllen, I overheard two strangersdiscussing how delicious the food was in the city. Theconversation went on for over 30 minutes; and by theend of it, my stomach was growling and I was sali-vating. After visiting, I now understand their enthu-siasm. The strong Mexican influence and the seafoodprovide the foundation for a foodie scene that deservesmore recognition.

Here are a few of the best places to enjoy it.

Patio on Guerra: Located in historic downtownMcAllen, this upscale restaurant is known for itsprime steaks and succulent seafood. Brick archwaysand outdoor seating provide an ideal old-worldambiance to enjoy the eatery’s nightly entertainmentand inventive cocktails.

Palenque Grill: An extensive menu and authenticMexican dishes in a casual atmosphere make this ano-fail local option. The traditionally preparedgrilled fish topped with their secret in-house saucewas once of best meals of the entire trip.

SALT-New American Table: Foodies can rejoiceat this open-concept restaurant, where you can watchthe chefs prepare their masterpieces made with pri-marily locally sourced and organic ingredients.

Spork: This newer eatery serves up traditional com-fort food with fusion twists. With house-cured meats(think homemade bacon and crispy pork bellies) anda hipster vibe atmosphere, it’s sure to please the car-nivore in you especially.

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Top image: Great KiskadeeFrom left: Birding wall at Bentsen-Rio GrandeValley State Park, Chachalaca at Bentsen-RioGrande Valley State Park, Butterfly at Bentsen-Rio Grande Valley State Park, Birders BarbaraVolkle Steve Moore at Bentsen-Rio Grande ValleyState Park, Green Jays at Bentsen-Rio GrandeValley State Park, Crab cake at Patio on Guerra

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Luxury Hotels...Grand Resorts...Charming B&B...Opulent Villas...Quaint 60

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INZU Lodge

Sleeping under a Safari tent in Rwanda

Situated 7 kilometers away from Rubavu town, INZULodge is perched on one of the hilltops surroundingbeautiful Lake Kivu. It is an eco-lodge that offers safaritents. The tents are handsomely decorated and fur-nished with one double bed, or twin beds, night tables,shelving and chairs. The reception area and therestaurant were built according to traditional rwandanarchitecture. The ceiling of the reception is a master-piece. It’s woven with natural materials and it gives youthe impression that you are inside a giant traditionalbasket that can be found at all Rwandan markets.

The restaurant’s menu contains an interesting mix oftraditional dishes (Sambaza, ubugali, grilled fish) aswell as international dishes. The reception area con-tains a gift shop where delightful surprises await you.The majority of the art here is made by local non prof-it organizations or local cooperatives. INZU Lodge isactively involved in the village life where it is located. Aspecial project called Dumbo Back to School was initi-ated in 2012. This project enables village students to

buy uniformsas well asschool sup-plies. Money isc o l l e c t e dthrough thesale of littlee l e p h a n t smade out offabric by alocal women’scoopera t i ve .INZU Lodge isthe place torelax and enjoylife in Rwanda.

www.inzulodge.com

COOK ISLAND’S CRYSAL BLUE LAGOON

Perfectly placed on the edge of Muri Beach, Crystal Blue Lagoon is aparadise beauty that recently opened in the Cook Islands.

Taking its name from the irresistible blue waters of the infamouslagoon at Muri Beach, Crystal Blue Lagoon offers a blissful beachfrontexperience.Couples or groups of friends and family will be inspired torecharge at these sophisticated villas that have been stylishly designedto every last detail.

With sweeping lagoon and ocean views, this gated duplex sanctuaryconsists of four spacious two-storey, two-bedroom accommodationswrapped around an impressively large infinity pool that flows endless-ly towards the tranquil clear waters of Muri Lagoon.

www.crystalbluelagoonvillas.com

YASAWA ISLAND RESORT IN THE FIJI ISLANDS

From the distinctive contemporary Fijian style bungalows fashionedwith palm thatched roofs, plantation shutters, an expansive sun deck,a private beach hut on the edge of the sands and personal ham-mock, the luxurious one island resort evokes “life as it is meant tobe,” an experience that rejuvenates the senses and stirs the soul. Theone island resort boasts 18 luxury bungalows hidden among luscioustropical greenery, each only a few steps from a pristine white-sandbeach.

On land and at sea, a multitude of resort activities provide somethingfor everyone. Guests enjoy swimming in the crystal waters of thefamous Blue Lagoon, snorkeling among vivid corals and tropical fish,sea kayaking, boating on a catamaran, deep sea fishing, stand uppaddle boarding and windsurfing. Back on shore, they enjoy tennis,volley ball hiking and rugby matches.

www.yasawa.com

Country Inns...Luxary Safari Camps...Ecolodges...Ice...Cave...Treetop... Hotels

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Preferred Hotels & Resorts Announces Four New Hote l s in As ia

The first Preferred Hotels & Resorts Legend Collection property inBali, The Katamama presents 58 elegantly appointed suitesinspired by the rich heritage of Indonesia and a highly astute atten-tion to detail, with every aspect of the hotel featuring bespokedesign elements crafted by the finest local artisans. Amenities atthis intimate luxury hotel include an in-house gym, private pooland pool deck, the Akademi ‘Centre of Mixology’ created byaward-winning mixologist Dre Masso, and a specialty restaurantfeaturing Spanish cuisine. The Katamama is located in Seminyak -the upscale area in tropical South Bali, known for its beaches,world-class nightlife, shopping and local attractions – next to theaward-winning Potato Head Beach Club.

Klapsons The River Residences Bangkok offers 77 serviced andprivate residences situated more than 23 floors directly above theiconic Chao Praya River. Designed by William Sawaya of contem-porary design forerunner Sawaya & Moroni, this unique proper-ty invites guests to enjoy picturesque riverside views and dedicat-ed services such as a private pier with ferry shuttle to the nearestrail station, providing convenient access to all of Bangkok. Oneof three Preferred Serviced Residences properties in SoutheastAsian, klapsons The River Residences Bangkok is the ideal home-away-from home for long-stay corporate travelers and smallfamilies on an extended holiday in the Land of Smiles.

Wanda Reign on the Bund is the flagship hotel of Wanda Hotels &Resorts, the largest luxury hotel company in China. Designed by theglobally acclaimed Foster & Partners, this iconic hotel features an artdeco influence that integrates architecture styles of different cultureswith the classical art forms of Shanghai, including significant detailssuch as the city’s flower - the Magnolia, in its design. Upon its debut,Wanda Reign on the Bund will offer 193 opulently inspiring rooms,including 14 suites and a 288 square-meter Chairman Suite withunobstructed views of The Bund, Huangpu River, and Pudong Skyline,each equipped with wireless control dashboards, valet service boxes,and exclusive Hermes or L’Occitane amenities, as well as amenitiessuch as five food and beverage experiences that will include MARC,a French fine-dining restaurant by 2-star Michelin chef MarcMeneau.

Once a thriving colonial tin mining hub in the 1930s, the city ofIpoh has evolved into one of Asia’s up-and-coming must-seedestinations for both business and leisure travelers and is hometo the WEIL, a member of the Preferred Hotels & Resorts LifestyleCollection, which is presented in the backdrop of the city’s oldtown heritage. Adjoining the Ipoh Parade Shopping Centre, thehotel epitomizes genuine Asian hospitality throughout its 313stylish and contemporary guestrooms and amenities that includesix distinctive dining experiences and a rooftop infinity pool andbar.

www.preferredhotels .com

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OD Port Portals hotel The OD Port Portals hotel is an ideal place to stay while in Mallorca, as it is sit-uated slightly outside the capitol city of Lapalma. This is a relatively new prop-erty, close to the luxurious yacht harbor of Puerto Portals that features many first-class restaurants, bars and boutiques. Combining good location and excellentservice, there is more than enough glamour for the discriminating visitor, withgreat décor, attentive staff and clean, modern rooms.

The hotel offers rooms that are fully equiped with all the necessities includingwifi, exclusive toiletries and luxurious bedding. They are an ideal setting for anunforgettable vacation, where every morning greets you with splendour, comfortand the horizon of the Mediterranean Sea.

In-house restaurants serve a gambit of delicacies, from health-conscious cuisinewith Asian and European flavours to an à-la-carte restaurant decorated withclassic furnishings. Muted hues and soft lighting embrace diners at breakfast,lunch or dinner.

The hotel is close to all activities, including the Costa d´en Blanes and PortalsNous beaches as well as excellent golf courses like the Bendinat´s Royal Golf.When not out and about discovering Mallorcas secret spots, guests can enjoyaccess to tennis courts, a gym, swimming pool and spa treatments and mas-sages à la Carte

Relaxation is the goal within the hotels exquisite terrace solarium that is fittedwith decadent sun loungers, oversized parasols, comfortable lounge beds andtowel service – everything at a guests fingertips.

It is easy to imagine the countless reasons to visit and stay at this magnificenthotel. A wedding on the beach followed by a resception in the gardens. A meet-ing of business partners in one of our meeting rooms that offer a stunning viewto inspire negotiations. Or a week-long getaway with or without the kids!Come and see what the mediteranean is offering!

www.od-hotels.com/hotel-od-port-portals-mallorca/

Hotel Nixe PalaceNear the heart of Palma de Mallorca, thisbeachfront hotel has the feel of a palace.Luxury in all forms greet guests, from therooms equipped with the latest technologyto the facilities set up for any need – work,rest or play.

There is a multitude of indoor and out-door spaces, ideal for hosting your meet-ings, weddings and celebrations .andfrom the street, the property heads downto a fabulous mediterean beach.

The name of the game here is food,though. The Hotel Nixe Palace offers awide array of gastronomic choices to treatyour palate with Mediterranean cuisine atits best. with a prime location on the ter-race, the Bistro offers unbeatable views ofthe Bay of Palma while enjoying a widevariety of snacks, sandwiches and salads.The “A POPA” restaurant is an exclusiveculinary venue with a scene recreating thestern of a boat and sea imagery. It offersa creative market cuisine and prides itselfon its fish and shellfish specialities. Thereare a couple of delightful bars, includingone on the terrace of the Hotel pool andanother in the lobby. Perfect localses toenjoy a refreshing drink and a light mealincluding salads, Tapas, pasta or pizza.

Aside from food, the NIXE HERBAL SPAhas been created to fill guests in anotherway - calmness. Placed on the beach withdirect access to our solarium terrace, thereare unforgettable views of the sea to enjoywhile being pampered from head to toe.

www.hotelmallorcanixepalace.com

Belmond La Residencia

The BELMOND LA RESIDENCIA is locatedin the tranquil north-west coast ofMallorca and is considered one of Spain'sfinest luxury boutique hotels. Tucked awayin a valley the guest houses and spa sit inlush gardens replete with olive and citrusgroves on the edge of the artist villagenamed Deià.

There are magnificent views from thisproperty, as deep green hills lie allaround and the grounds have hiddengardens, a pool and many splendors togreet guests.

Guests can enjoy day trips and excur-sions, with a walk with donkeys up one ofthe local hills or complimentary two-hourboat rides along the coastline exploringsecluded coves. Staying at the hotel,guests can enjoy a swim in one of twooutdoor pools, play a game of tennis,workout in the gym or explore the hotel’sacclaimed art gallery or one of Spain’slargest permanent sculpture gardens. Itsgrowing exhibit includes pieces by famousinternational sculptors and local up-and-comers. The sculptures offer everythingfrom graceful bronzes to fun works thatchildren can play on.

A stay in the valley of paradise!

www.belmond.com/la-residencia-

mallorca

Jumeirah port soller

This is undoubtedly a land of luxury, andthe Jumeirah Port Soller hotel & spa is atrue representative of this fact. Built on acliff, it overlooks the fishing village of PortSoller, and as a tribute, the hotel has anautical feel. It is also surrounded by theTramuntana mountain range, and likes tosay that the hotel appears to` floatbetween the sky and the sea.`

Private balconies offer magnificent viewsand great whenever you want to take amagnificent selfie for that picture perfectpostcard.

The balmy Mediterranean climate andglorious natural setting make it an idealplace for al fresco dining, and offers achoice of three bars and two restaurantsserving Spanish delicacies. Though closeto the hustle and bustle, the hotel is aworld away from the stresses of modernlife.

Great views and food aside, the JumeirahPort Soller hotel & spa is renowned for theluxurious Talise Spa. A rejuvenating breakcan be found within the grounds of thismagnificent oasis that offers modern spatreatments that use natural ingredientssuch as citrus, almonds and olive oil. Astate-of-the-art gym, two swimming poolsand a spacious ballroom provide moreways to relax, unwind and enjoy the poc-ture-perfect Jumeirah Port Soller.

www.jumeirah.com/en/hotels-

resorts/mallorca

Son Brull hotel

This small boutique hotel, away from it allin the country, is an ideal getaway forlovers and others who wish to enjoy anOld-World experience with modern luxu-ries. With grape vines, olive and citrustrees, guests can imagine the olden dayswhere vineyard owners would watch fromthe balcony as the workers collected thesavory grapes for fine wine.

It has a rich history as it was a12th centu-ry monastery. The transformation into ahotel has been studiously made and verystylishly renovated. The modern incarna-tion sets the tone for a calm and peacefulstay. Inland with good views over themountains and valleys, the Son Brull onMallorca is pleasing to both body andsoul. It offers comfortable, upscale roomswith scenic views and a restaurant andtapas bar that uses produce from theproperty, including sumptuous breads anda homemade gin and "citric" liqueur towash it down with.

Forty acres of the land are used forOrganic Farming, and the olive grovewithin is more than three centuries old.Stroll the land and then hit the spa torelax, time to savour, time to stay.

www.sonbrull.com/en/

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guests are treated to Canadian pasture-raised premium Angus beef, organic pro-duce from nearby Pemberton farms, andpairings with the finest wines from BritishColumbia and the world. Servers will evensabre a bottle of Champagne before youreyes if you’re celebrating a special occa-sion.

In the wintertime, Fairmont guests enjoyalpine fondues at The Chalet, followed byan evening sleigh ride from BlackcombSleigh RIdes. The Wildflower is the place forincredible breakfasts and extravagantbrunches, as well as daily dinners of sea-sonal Pacific Northwest cuisine. If you wantto hit the slopes early, Portobello Market &Fresh Bakery has deliciousness to grab andgo as well as made-to-order breakfasts,lunches and dinners. After a day spent out-doors, head to the Mallard Lounge for cre-ative and traditional cocktails and single-sourced chocolate tastings (matched withwines, ports or whiskeys) at the ChocolateBar.

The best hotels are ones that goabove and beyond, and theFairmont Chateau Whistler is

one of the very best -- the largest trueski-in, ski-out hotel in North America,in the continent’s number one rankedski resort.

What does going above and beyondreally mean? How about being able toski right up to the base of the hoteland trade your skis for a hot chocolatewith the ski valet. How about exploringthe mountains with a WhistlerExperience Guide, a longtime localwho takes ability-based groups ofskiers and snowboarders to Whistler-Blackcomb’s best terrain and freshestsnow.

There are lots of summer activities too.Enjoy the outdoors with the hotel’s on-site 18-hole Robert Trent Jones, Jr.designed course, or go mountain bik-ing, hiking or adventuring with The

Adventure Group. In all seasons, ziplinewith Superfly Ziplines or ride a bobsleighdown the Olympic course at the WhistlerSliding Centre.

Back at the hotel, you’ll really appreciateFairmont’s extras.

The Fairmont has the largest pool deck inWhistler with an indoor/outdoor pool per-fect for enjoying the mountain views, threeoutdoor whirlpools and one indoor, and anoutdoor 60-foot lap pool equipped withunderwater music to motivate you to swimextra lengths. Indoors there’s a sauna anda steam room fragranced with eucalyptus,and a spa which includes two handcraftedcedar steam cabinets.

Dining options

Whistler has only two restaurants withAAA/CAA’s Four Diamond Rating -- Araxiin the main village, and the FairmontChateau Whistler’s Grill Room. Grill Room

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64 Going above and beyond at the Fairmont Chateau Whistler

A r t i c l e & P h o t o g r a p h y b y J o h a n n a R e a d , T r av e l E at e r . n e t

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Squamish and Lil’wat First Nations. Theaward-winning Squamish Lil-wat CulturalCentre (SLCC) preserves the cultural identi-ties and histories of these two indigenousnations, and shares them with Whistler’sresidents and guests.

In the summer of 2015, Fairmont ChateauWhistler and the SLCC opened the SalishStroll, a pathway to ethnobotanical trailsmaintained and interpreted by SLCC’sAboriginal Ambassadors. The Salish Strolltakes guests through the forest and allowsthem to immerse themselves in the arts,culture and heritage of Whistler’s FirstNations.

Want more art and culture? Walk from theChateau Whistler to the Audain ArtMuseum, opening in early 2016, with oneof the world’s best collections of FirstNations masks and the works of Canadianartists like Emily Carr, Jack Shadbolt, E.J.Hughes and Gordon Smith.

Fairmont Chateau Whistler’s commitmentto sustainability takes many forms. They arecurrently working with AWARE (theAssociation of Whistler Area Residents forEnvironment) on a compost and recyclingdiversion project that includes standardizedbin organization and signage, as well asstaff training practices that all Whistlerhotels can use as a benchmark.

When will you next be taken above andbeyond by the Fairmont Chateau Whistler?

www.fairmont.com/whistler

Johanna Read is a Vancouver-based freelancewriter and photographer specializing in traveland food.

Follow Johanna on:Instagram @TravelEaterJohannaTwitter @TravelEater. www.TravelEater.net

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In every Fairmont restaurant and in yourguest room, you can relax with signatureFairmont teas, including Canadian MapleMaple, which tastes as if it is infused withmaple syrup, though without any calories.

Speaking of guest rooms, ChateauWhistler’s rooms go above and beyond thenorm. Each has a window seat to admirethe mountain views and windows that opento the fresh air. You’ll sleep in your choiceof luxurious queen or king bed with 300-thread count 100% combed cotton Italiansheets. You’re all set electronically with wifi,an iHome system, flat screen TV, and “OnCommand” movies. Bathrooms have a fullrange of deluxe toiletries by Le Labo with asignature scent made just for Fairmont.Suites and specialty rooms go even furtherwith fireplaces, sitting rooms, multiplebathrooms and bedrooms.

To go even further above and beyond, stayon the Fairmont Gold Floor -- what’sknown as the hotel within a hotel. Therooms and suites are upgraded to perfec-tion (though it is hard to imagine how aregular Fairmont room could beimproved!). Guests have access to theFairmont Gold Concierge who providessuperb service and caters to your individualneeds and preferences.

Gold Floor guests are in for an even biggertreat -- the Fairmont Gold Lounge. Openall day and evening, the Gold Loungeoffers a surprisingly bountiful breakfast, all-day snacks and drinks, an honour bar,evening canapés, and an addictive collec-tion of sweets.

Fairmont knows how to make specialevents truly special. Easter 2016 will featurenot only a “requisite, and seriously extrava-gant” brunch on Easter Sunday, but anenchanted Easter garden to take photoswith fairies and the Easter Bunny himself.Kids will love the massive Easter egg hunt,playrooms dedicated to their age group,

craft workshops, egg tosses and a familyEaster bunny hop dance.

Fairmont CAREs

The Fairmont Chateau Whistler provides itsguests with an incredibly luxurious andrelaxing experience. But they go even fur-ther by also caring for their community.

Fairmont established the Fairmont CAREsprogram -- Community Assistance andResponsibility to the Environment -- to initi-ate and support a broad range of pro-grams catered to the particular needs ofthe communities which are home to theirhotels.

In Whistler, this takes several forms. Atopthe Chateau Whistler, in the roof garden,are more hotels within a hotel. These onesare “hotels” for honeybees and solitary pol-linator bees.

The honeybees have been invited to stay onthe roof since 2013, and the solitary polli-nator bees now have their own hotel too.These tiny bees pollinate a significantamount of the food produced acrossCanada and over 80% of flowering plants.Their habitats are at risk. Not only hasFairmont created a safe nesting site for thebees, they’ve provided simple instructionsto Whistler’s residents to build their ownbee hotels to provide a wider range ofspace for local bees to rest their wings andlay eggs for the next generation.

The Fairmont Chateau Whistler is doingmore to protect Whistler’s natural and cul-tural environment.

The land around Whistler Village was firstoccupied by the Coast Salish First Nations,centuries before the first European settlersarrived. Because of the richness of wildlifeand other resources, Whistler was a keystop on the trading routes between the

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thing (and we really appreciated a cold,local beer at the end of the day), but not somuch that we were out of our comfort zoneor in pain the next day.

Vietnam has soared in popularity for trav-ellers in recent years. For North Americans,this may stem from high school history les-sons and the many movies and televisionshows based on the Vietnam War (called theAmerican War there). While the country hasclearly embraced tourism, it has also stayedtrue to its communist self – with megaphonesset up on seemingly random street corners toput out government messages. Starting inthe early morning, they communicate every-thing from the day’s news, to calls to exer-cise, to songs from the 80s. Our tour startedin the busy, crowded, noisy and absolutelyfabulous capital of Hanoi. It included a rick-shaw ride around the city’s Old Quarter(where there is a very long street dedicatedonly to shoes – talk about paradise!) and vis-its to several incredible historical sites –including the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum to

Like many people 40 and over, mytravel expectations are different thanthey were when I was younger. And

I’m not just talking about upping the numberof stars of the accommodation or travellingbusiness class (although those are the nicelittle perks of having a bit more money).These days, my focus is less about cost andnightlife and more on finding authenticexperiences. I want to learn about the cul-ture, engage with locals (not just people setup to entertain tourists), and to feel like I amconnecting with others who certainly live a

different life than me, but who – on a humanlevel – aren’t so different after all.

While I love checking out iconic sites andactivities and visiting museums, I also want togo off the beaten path and push myself a lit-tle (I said “a little” – let’s be real, I am onvacation!). I want to go beyond the all-inclu-sive resort and away from where the big tourbuses roam, while working off those extra“doesn’t this taste great” calories and localbeverages. I really don’t want to gain weighton vacation. Most importantly – I want to bewhere the locals are, to experience amoment in their life.

To accomplish all of this, my husband and Itook a BikeHike Adventures tour of Vietnam.BikeHike has a range of tours – strenuous,challenging, moderate and easy. Our tourwas moderate, which means you need a rea-sonable fitness level because you bike, kayakor hike for up to five hours a day. Moderatewas perfect for us – it pushed us enough tomake us feel like we accomplished some-

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Paddling and Pedaling through Vietnam by Ruth Atherley

and we had some great conversations– with our guide helping to interpret.We got to hear about their lives andthey asked about ours. At the end, webought small souvenirs that they had made.Hoa told us that we didn’t have to buy any-thing, but we wanted to give them somethingback for sharing their time with us.

During our time in North Vietnam, we stayedat one of the most amazing places ever –Topas Ecolodge – located in Hoang LienNational Park, about a 45-minute drive outof Sapa (although, since we hiked quite afew miles towards the lodge, our drive wasonly about 30 minutes). It was one of themost memorable places we have ever expe-rienced in all of our travels. The accommo-dation was good and the food was excellent,but the view makes this a must-do. It felt likewe had been photoshopped into a moviescene. I didn’t want to do anything except siton the deck of our balcony and look at theview. It took my breath away. And as the sunset and rose the next morning, the mountainstook on different characteristics. It was stun-ning.

After taking the night train back to Hanoi, weheaded through the Red River Delta toHalong Bay, which is spectacular in a verydifferent way. We spent two nights on a lux-ury Vietnamese junk, viewing the limestonekarst landscape – which is a World UNESCOHeritage Site. Along with visiting a floatingvillage, we kayaked off of the junk – duckingin and out of caves and coves in the bay. Itook a cooking class onboard and we did TaiChi on the top deck each morning, overlook-ing the beauty of the bay.

Coming home to Canada, I felt like I hadlearned something about Vietnam and thepeople who live there. As a side benefit, Ialso didn’t gain any vacation weight. Seeingthe sites is always interesting, but the realmemories – like the conversations with thewomen of the hill tribes, where we both real-ized we aren’t so different from one another,coming across a rice planting celebration,and the discussions with our guide about ourrespective lives are experiences that moneycan’t buy. These are the experiences that wewill remember forever.

www.bikehike.com


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pay respects to the preserved body of thecountry’s beloved leader.

We then headed north, via overnight train, toarrive in Sapa, a beautiful mountain townoffering views of stunning vistas and impres-sive rice terraces. On a bike ride up intothese mountains with our guide, Hoa, wecame across an unplanned experience – sev-eral hill tribes celebrating the planting of therice. In amongst hundreds of locals, weappeared to be the only non-Vietnamese.Hoa – sensing our Canadian concern thatwe were infringing on their celebrations –explained that the Vietnamese people don’tthink that way. They have a “the more, themerrier” approach to celebrations, to workand to life in general. They are a very socialpeople. Hoa encouraged us to take photos –another concern we had that we apparentlyshouldn’t have worried about. As soon as Ilifted my camera, several little children camerunning up to me to pose – their faces full ofsmiles and their hands tightly holding ontotheir big sticks of sugar cane.

The next morning, we headed to the GoldenStream Valley. Trekking up the incredible riceterraces – which is like working out onMother Nature’s stair climber – took someenergy. While our guide was clearly more fitthan we were (he also guides challengingtours and keeps up with Ironman competi-tors), he was sweet, charming and encour-aging – taking time for breaks and to showus where we could take incredible photos. Aswe got into some of the villages, Hoa took usfor a cold beer – which, I have to say, hadnever tasted better.

As we set off each day, several (often up tofive) women from the local tribes would fol-low – or accompany us – often walkingalong with us for over an hour. Initially, thisfelt like a bit of an intrusion – until we lost ourcity attitude and realized that this was anincredible opportunity to learn about theirlives. Some of our hiking and biking tooksome effort, and these women – in full tribaldress – kept up with us. (They jogged whilewe biked!) They were funny and charming

Their aircraft includeA330s, A340s, B777s, B737-800s and B727-800s, all well maintained and laid-out with the customer in mind.Each section is designed with creature comforts taking front andcentre. The seats throughout the plane are comfortable and thefacilities are kept impeccably clean and organized. Most BusinessClass passengers can expect either fully lie-flat seats or angled lie-flat seats that brings relaxation to a higher level.

Comfort Class is Turkish Airlines' premium economy section ishighlighted by slightly larger seats configured in two-by-three-by-two rows, a large video screen and entertainment system with aniPod outlet and a laptop power outlet for each seat.

Even passengers traveling in Economy Class can enjoy an aboveaverage trip, as all passengers enjoy the famed TKY complimenta-ry meal. Though multi-course meals are provided in BusinessClass on extended range flights, all passengers are treated to theaward winning food served on board. Considering that TKY dealswith one of the world’s biggest (maybe the biggest) catering serv-ice and are partners with Do & Co., there is no surprise in thequality TKY can offer!

Glowing reviews and exceptional food are theorder of the day for this up-and-coming air-line!

Part of the Star Alliance network, Turkish airlines (TKY)offers service to Canadians from Toronto and Montreal,and connections to destinations all over the world fromtheir hub in Istanbul.

Building on their international reputation, TKY has beenclimbing the ranks as a top provider and doing verywell in Canada.

With 200 destinations, and adding new ones at a rapidpace, TKY welcome travellers with smiles and a friendlyhello, though often with a charming accent!To help them usher in this growth, TKY has a massive,world-class training center in Istanbul with numeroussimulators. Pilots, flight attends and support staff are alltrained well and are ready to go after their courses aredone.

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american world traveler winter 2015-16 issue

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