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1 210 Top ExpEriEncEs
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10 Top Experiences
Mughal Gardens in Srinagar
If there is paradise on earth, this it is. Emperor Jehangir was the first to describe Kashmir in such glowing terms. And he didn’t stop at just singing paeans to Kashmir’s ethereal beauty. The three most stunning gardens in Srinagar (p22) were built during his reign. Strung out around Dal Lake, these have terraced lawns, fountain pools and manicured flowerbeds punctuated with chinar trees and pavilions. Nishat Bagh, with a 12-level terracing split down the middle by a cascading water channel, is the best. The two other gems are Shalimar Bagh and Chashme Shahi, the latter known for its natural spring.
Little Tibet in McLeodGanj
Named after David McLeod, a lieutenant-governor of Punjab, McLeodGanj (p44) was established in the 1850s as a British garrison and served as an administration centre for the colonisers till 1905.
Toy train ride from Kalka to Shimla
We have always loved a train ride, especially one on a toy train. The narrow-gauge railway track from Kalka to Shimla (p70) is a feat of engineering accomplished over 150 years ago. Now a Unesco World Heritage Site, this is the same route that has enjoyed a Bollywood moment – in Jab We Met (2005) starring Kareena Kapoor and Shahid Kapoor. The Kalka–Shimla route covers a remarkable 1400m over a distance of 96km, passing through more than 100 tunnels. The ride is fun any time of the year, though chugging through a snow-covered landscape is what we like best. The Himalayan Queen is a popular train on this route, but the Shivalik Deluxe is altogether more comfortable.
It made headlines in 1960, when the Dalai Lama claimed asylum here. And with him came thousands of exiles, turning this Himachali town into Little Tibet. A centre for the study of Buddhism and Tibetan culture, McLeodGanj is a mix of both the serene and the lively. The revered Tsug-lha-khang Complex, equivalent of the Jokhang Temple in Lhasa, houses a wooden pulpit for the Dalai Lama’s discourses, His Holiness’s private office, residence, a monastery and the Kalachakra Temple. The town, teeming with tourists, pilgrims and monks in maroon robes, is a foodie and a shopper’s haven. You will find many cuisines here, but the meaty momos and soft Tibetan breads rule the chart.
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3 4EasT & norThEasT
East & Northeast OverviewFrom the tea-flavoured hills of West Bengal (p162) in the east go on to experience the mountainous forested regions of the Northeast. Here the mighty Himalayas give way to Mt Khangchendzonga, the world’s third-highest mountain near Sikkim (p168). Arunachal Pradesh (p186) exposes you to pristine Buddhist monasteries and tribal culture at Ziro. Take in the rugged countryside and fascinating tribal villages of Nagaland (p194) and Meghalaya’s (p198) hillside villages.
Getting There & AwayAir: For Arunachal Pradesh and Meghalaya fly to Guwahati from Delhi or Kolkata and charter a 4x4 vehicle for the trip from there. You can also fly to Dibrugarh in Assam from Delhi or Kolkata and charter a vehicle from there for central Arunachal Pradesh and Ziro Valley. For Sikkim fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and charter a taxi from there to Gangtok. Fly to Dimapur from Delhi or Kolkata and hire a taxi from there for Kohima in Nagaland. To reach the hills of Darjeeling in West Bengal fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and hire a taxi from there.
Rail: Take Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express from New Delhi or Darjeeling Mail from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri (NJP), and hire a taxi from there for Darjeeling. The nearest railhead to Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland and Meghalaya is NJP. Hire a vehicle from here to Gangtok, Ziro Valley and around, Kohima and Shillong.
East & Northeast
WEST BENGAL1 Darjeeling 2 Kalimpong3 Kurseong
SIKKIM4 Gangtok 5 Namchi6 Pelling7 Yuksom8 Ravangla
9 Tsopta Valleya Gurudongmar Lakeb Yumthang Valley
ARUNACHAL PRADESHc Old Dirangd Se-la Passe Tawangf Pasighatg Ziroh Along
NAGALANDi Kohimaj Khonomak Tuophema
MEGHALAYAl Shillongm Cherrapunjee
KohimaTuophema
Khonoma
DarjeelingKurseong
GangtokNamchiPelling
YuksomRavangla
GurudongmarLake
Tsopta ValleyYumthangValley
Kalimpong
Pasighat
Ziro
Along
Cherrapunjee
Shillong
Tawang
Old DirangSe-la Pass
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C H I N A
BHUTAN
Barail Ran
ge
Brahmap
utra
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Brahmaputra River
ARUNACHAL PRADESH
A S S A MSIKKIM
BANGLADESH
NAGALAND
WEST BENGAL
Tura
BongaigaonJalpaiguri
Coochbehar
Itanagar
Dibrugarh
Siliguri
SilcharBalurghat
Guwahati
B
GuwahatiAirport
–
00 200 km0 100 miles
A young monk in festive attire at a monastery in Sikkim
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Gangtok & Around I SIKKIM
Fluttering prayer flags spread across the foothills outside Gangtok
5 6GanGTok & around
GETTING THEREAir: Fly to Bagdogra from New Delhi or Kolkata and charter a taxi to Gangtok.
Rail: Take the Dibrugarh Rajdhani Express from New Delhi or the Darjeeling Mail from Kolkata to New Jalpaiguri station, and hire a taxi from there.
Road: Taxis and buses ply the 115km stretch between Siliguri and Gangtok through the day. For a trip to East Sikkim, charter a 4x4 vehicle from Gangtok.
BEST TIME TO GOOctober–November, March–May
SAFETY TIPRoads in East Sikkim are prone to landslides and sudden closures during heavy rain or snow. Always check in advance.
Quick Facts
Why go?
A happy hunting ground for tourists from neighbouring states, Gangtok is a pleasant hill station with a laidback and friendly population. No one seems to be in a hurry here, and life is generally about taking things easy over a warm cup of coffee or a chilled pint of beer, while enjoying splendid views of Mt Khangchendzonga lording over the townscape. An excursion to the village of Rumtek (to view the grand Rumtek Monastery), combined with a jaunt to Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La, only adds more variety to this thoroughly enjoyable vacation.
1 NAMGYAL INSTITUTE OF TIBETOLOGYHoused in a traditional mansion, this delightful museum is stuffed with myriad artefacts related to Vajrayana Buddhism and Sikkimese and Tibetan culture in Gangtok. Established in 1958 for scholastic and cultural research, its ground-floor hall displays Buddhist manuscripts, icons, thangkas and Tantric ritual objects, while the library on the 1st floor houses invaluable Buddhist manuscripts, some dating back several hundred years. Further up along the road leading to the main museum is the Do-drul Chorten, a large white stupa surrounded by dormitories for novice monks and glass-walled galleries with countless flaming butter lamps burning within.`10; www.tibetology.net; Deorali; 10am– 4pm
2 ENCHEY GOMPA This ambient monastery stands to the north of Gangtok, veiled by a forest of gently rustling conifers. It’s easily Gangtok’s most attractive, with fantastic murals and statues of Tantric deities. The child monks living in the monastery are a friendly lot, and will tail you noisily as you go about exploring the monastery. The place comes alive for the colourful Detor Chaam masked dances held in December/January; try to be there if you can. 4am–4pm Mon–Sat, 4am–1pm Sun
Highlights1 Namgyal Institute
of Tibetology2 Enchey Gompa3 Ganesh Tok4 Gangtok Zoo5 Rumtek Monastery6 Tsomgo Lake7 Nathu La
Stretched along rolling foothills in the shadow of the majestic Mt Khangchendzonga, Gangtok is a lively hill station with some fabulous sightseeing around it. To top it off, an excursion to the icy heights of Nathu La earns you some adventure points.
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7 8GanGTok & around
4 Accommodation Hotel Nor-Khill Heritage ```%03592-205637; www.elginhotels.com; PS Rd, Gangtok; `8700 In
the pre-Independence era, this
stately property served as the royal
guesthouse of the Chogyals. Bearing
testimony to its heyday are countless
historical photos, period furniture and
exquisite Tibetan carpets that lend
vintage appeal to the hallways and the
lobby. The hotel is lavish, to say the
least. And rates include all meals.
Hotel Sonam Delek Hotel ``%03592-202566; www.hotelsonamdelek.com; Tibet Rd, Gangtok; `3000 A trusted favourite
among seasoned travellers, this place
offers matchless service, hearty
food and great value for money. The
cheaper standard rooms (`1540) in
the basement have direct access to
a superb rear terrace with sweeping
mountain views. The deluxe rooms
have private balcony views, king-size
beds and prim furnishings. Breakfast
is complimentary.
Hidden Forest Homestay `%03592-205197; www.hiddenforestretreat.org; Middle Sichey village; `2000 For an
alternative lodging experience, try
this family-run homestay – secluded
amid fruit trees, orchids and flower
nurseries – about 2km out of town.
The Tibetan-themed rooms have
balconies, the delicious food comes
from the solar-powered kitchen, a
resident cow provides dairy produce
and all vegetable waste is composted.
A taxi from town costs `150.
Mintokling Guest House Guesthouse `%03592-208553; www.mintokling.com; Bhanu Path, Gangtok; `1850 Draped by exotic foliage and set about
a pretty garden dotted with prayer
flags, this lodge-like family home is an
island of tranquillity. The rooms come
with pinewood wall panels and sport
upholstery made from traditional
fabric. The traditional menu at the
restaurant is a must-try.
Hotel Pandim Hotel `%9832080172; www.hotelpandim.com; Bhanu Path, Gangtok; `1550 Located near the ridge, this budget
hotel offers good service and the best
beds in town within a budget. There’s
Hotel Nor-Khill was a guesthouse for the Chogyals, the Sikkimese royals
6 TSOMGO LAKEPronounced ‘Chhangu’, this scenic high-altitude lake sits at 4420m about 38km northeast of Gangtok, towards Nathu La. Permits are required to visit the area, but if you charter a local vehicle, the driver can arrange these. The journey to the lake takes about 90 minutes up a perilous mountain road. Upon arriving, you can stroll by the waters, or cross over to the other side of the lake via a culvert for photo-ops. Pony and yak rides, tea, noodles and momos are available along the shore.
7 NATHU LASome 18km ahead of Tsomgo Lake is the Nathu La, which – at 4145m – could have provided superb travel access between Sikkim and Tibet had the pass not been closed to the public. As a tourist, however, you can go right up to the border and take photos of Tibet on the other side. Permits for visiting the pass can be processed along with those for Tsomgo Lake. The Indian Army stands vigil along the entire route to the pass, and can help in the event of any health or automobile-related emergency.
Value for Money: Shared ridesIf you are travelling alone or as a couple, you can always share a ride to Tsomgo Lake and Nathu La with other small groups. A Sumo or Scorpio plying the route take in as many as seven passengers, so if you can work up a full house, you could spare yourself the steep fee of nearly `4000 for the entire vehicle and do the trip for only around `700 per person.
Combine a visit to Tsomgo
Lake with Nathu La
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• Dzongri/Goecha la (7–9 days): This is the most popular trek in Sikkim, famed for its superb mountain views, floral spectacles in summer, birdlife and pristine forests. In a very short time you reach high mountain meadows and glaciers and are face to face with Khangchendzonga. Climb the hill above the Dzongri Hut at dawn for a view of the mountains right across the valley, including Pandim, Kabru, Ratong and Narsing.
• Uttarey to Phoktey Dara (4 days): This trek climbs from Uttarey in West Sikkim to a ridge top for amazing views of the Himalayan peaks including Everest, Lhotse, Khangchendzonga and Makalu.
• Rhododendron Trek, Hillay to Barsey (half day): The 4km walk to the Barsey rhododendron sanctuary passes through forests with a view of
Khangchendzonga in the foreground. During spring, this part of the trail is ablaze with rhododendron blossoms.
• Ravangla to Mainom Top (one day): The 3km steep climb from the town brings the trekker to the hill top of Mainom. The walk is thorough the Mainom Wildlife Sanctuary rich in birdlife and flowers.
• Pemayangtse to Sangacholling Monastery (half day): This is a walk along a ridge joining the two monasteries. From Sangacholling, one can see all the peaks of the Khangchendzonga range as well as some of the most important monasteries in West Sikkim, including Khechuperri, Pemayangtse and Dubdi.
Expert Recommendation Best treks in SikkimSujoy Das is the founder of South Col Expeditions and has been trekking in the Himalayas for more than 30 years. He knows the mountains like the back of his hand.
Pemayangtse, set on a hilltop, is one ofSikkim’s oldest monasteries
9 10GanGTok & around
good food (against advance order)
served at the cosy terrace sit-out. The
entrance is confusing; remember the
reception is on the top floor.
5 Eating9’INE Sikkimese ``MG Marg, Gangtok; meals `180–200 Glass-fronted and stylishly appointed,
this restaurant serves an awesome
spread of local delicacies such as
sisnoo, gundruk ko jhol and fiery pork
curry. If the dishes sound unfamiliar,
the friendly proprietor can help.
Taste of Tibet Tibetan `MG Marg, Gangtok Popular with
Gangtok’s youth, this eatery serves
the best Tibetan food in Gangtok with
dishes costing between `70–100.
Jostle with students and monks around
tiny tables and wolf down generous
servings of momos, noodle soup,
shyabhale (fried meat pasty) – and that
chilled bottle of local Dansberg beer.
Baker’s Cafe Cafe `MG Marg, Gangtok; dishes `40–90 The coolest breakfast escape on
MG Marg, this cosy cafe has strong
espresso, iced lemon tea, croissants,
paninis, pizzas and pastries. You may
have to wait for a table in the evenings.
6 NightlifeCafe Live & Loud Lounge Barwww.thriceasmuch.com; Tibet Rd, Gangtok; drinks from `120 The star
of Gangtok’s live music scene, this
lounge bar hosts gigs by rock, blues
and alternative bands every Thursday,
Friday and Saturday evenings. There’s
a full bar and food menu, and a cafe
terrace outside.
2 ActivitiesSikkim Tourism Development Corporation Adventure %03592-203960; www.sikkimtourism.travel; MG Marg, Gangtok Views of Gangtok can
be enjoyed from helicopter flights
operated by STDC (`7590 for five
persons, 15 minutes). Book in
advance. STDC also has information
on white water rafting on the Teesta,
paragliding, trekking and biking.
7 ShoppingGolden Tips Teawww.goldentipstea.com; Kazi Rd, Gangtok; tea packs from `300 This boutique store stocks an
exhaustive selection of premium
Darjeeling and Sikkimese teas. The
produce is sold in gift-sized packages
(175g to 250g).
Handicrafts & Handloom Emporium CraftsZero Point, Gangtok; souvenirs from `1000 This government initiative
teaches traditional crafts to local
students and markets their products,
including toy pandas, carpets, Tibetan
furniture and handmade paper.
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