6 stitches 02
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INTRODUCTION
TO
FASHION &
APPAREL
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ESSENTIALGARMENT
CONSTRUCTION
STITCH TYPES
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STITCH TYPES- Definition
One unit of conformation of
thread resulting fromrepeatedly passing a strand
or strands and/or loops ofthread into or through a
material.
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STITCH TYPES:
BS3870: Part I: 1991,
Stitches are catalogued into SIXclasses.
The International Organisation for
Standardisation uses the identical
numbering (ISO 4915:1991: Textiles-Stitchtypes Classification and Terminology).
CLASSIFICATION
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STITCH TYPES: terms
Intralooping - Passing of a loop
of thread through another loop
formed by the same thread, e.g.stitch type 101.
Interlooping - Passing of a loop
of thread through another loopformed by a different thread, e.g.stitch type 401.
Interlacing - Passing of a
thread over or around another
thread or loop of another thread,e.g. stitch type 301.
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STITCH TYPES: formed
Without material
Inside Material
Through Material
On material
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Stitch classes are designated and
identified by the first digit of a "3- digit numerals system".
Types of stitch within each class
are designated and identified by:2nd and 3rd digit
STITCH TYPES: Designation
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STITCH TYPES:
Formed with one or more needle
threads introduced from one side ofthe material only.
Loop/loops of thread is/are passed
through the material and secured
by intralooping with succeeding
loop/loops at the underside of the
material.
Class 100 - Chain Stitches
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 100 - Chain Stitches
Component - Needle thread.
Property - Chain stitch is elastic, and
thicker than lockstitch. It can easily be
ravelled; particular care is required toprevent runback from the last stitch.
Application - Temporary stitching (e.g.
basting) or for blind stitching.
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 100 - Chain Stitches
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 200 - Hand StitchesFormed by single thread passed from one side
of the material to the other in successive needle
penetrations.
Thread passes through the material as a single
line and the stitch is secured by the succeedingformation of thread which passing in and out of
the material or intralooping of the threads with
themselves.
When more than one thread is used, the threads
pass through the same perforations in thematerial.
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 200 - Hand Stitches
Component - Needle (hand) thread.Application - Handwork.
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Formed by a needle thread or
threads, introduced from oneside of the material, interlacing
with an under thread suppliedfrom a bobbin on the other side.
Class 300 Lockstitches
STITCH TYPES:
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 300 Lockstitches
Components: Needle thread.
Bobbin thread.
Property - Low bulk and thin, good
strength & abrasion resistance. Poor
elasticity, non-ravel.
Disadvantage- Limited sewing length, need
to replace the bobbin.
Applications - For seams requiring stretch.
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Formed with two/more groups of
threads having for a generalcharacteristic the interlacing &
interlooping of the loops of the two
groups.Loops of the 1st group of threads are
passed through the material & aresecured by interlacing & interloping
with loops of the succeeding group ofthread to form a stitch.
Class 400 - Multi-thread Chain stitches
STITCH TYPES:
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 400 - Multi-thread Chain stitchesDiffer from Class 100 stitch types.
Component: 1.Needle thread.
2.Looper thread.
Property: Non-ravel; strong, good elasticity,less likely to cause seam pucker due tostructural jamming; good seam stretch;
does not need to wind bobbin.
Disadvantages: lower resistance to runback
and have increased bulk under the seam.
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Formed with one/more needle and/or
looper threads with at least one thread
passing round the edge of the material
being sewn.
Loops of one group of thread are passed
through the material & are secured, by
interlooping with loops of one/moreinterlooped groups of threads before
succeeding threads loops of the first groupare again passed through the material.
Class 500, Overlock/Overedge Stitches
STITCH TYPES:
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 500, Overlock/Overedge StitchesComponent: Needle thread must
Looper thread shouldCover thread could
Property: Excellent stretchable,good recovery.
Application:
Seam neatening/edge neatening, suitable formany types of fabric, subject tofraying/slippage.
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 600 Covering chain
Formed with two/more groups of threads
and has for a general characteristic that twogroups of thread cover both surfaces of the
material.
There are the utilise between two & fourneedle threads, generally one looper thread
& one/two cover threads. Loops of the 3rd
group cast on the fabric surface & helddown by the needle thread(s) interloped with
loops of the 2nd group of thread on the
underside of the material.
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 600 Covering chainComponent:1. Needle thread must
2. Looper thread must3. Cover thread - should
Property:1. Highly elasticity.2. Seam neatening/flat seam stitch.3. Bulk.4. Fast M/C speed.5. No need to wind bobbin.
6. Greater thread consumption.
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STITCH TYPES:
Class 600 Covering chainApplication:
1. Covering stitches for decorativepurpose.
2. Can be used to joint of 2 raw edges.
3. Suitable for knitted garment.
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STITCH TYPES:
Combination of stitch type:
Formed two or more rows of
stitches of different classes areformed simultaneously in one
operation.
Denoted by using the two individual
stitch type designations, joined with
a dot ".", example: (401.504).
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STITCH TYPES:
Combination of stitch type:Component:
1. Needle thread (must)2. Looper thread.
3. Cover thread (should)
Property: 1. Save time.
2. Save labour.
3. Save cost.
4. More investment.
STITCH TYPES
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STITCH TYPES:MEASUREMENT OF STITCHING QUALITY
The operation of sewing product
must meet certain degrees in termsof quality, for each of these threeareas: -
1. Styles, dimensions for emotional appeal.
2. Utility, dimensions for function.3. Durability,dimensions for the life &
utility aspects.
STITCH TYPES
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STITCH TYPES:
Stitching Quality is measured with:Stitch size:
a. Stitch length- Distance from one stitchjuncture to the next successive stitch juncture inthe sewing line.
b. Stitch width- Distance between theoutermost stitch juncture or distance between
the outermost edges of the lateral threadplacement.
c. Stitch depth- Distance between theupper and lower surfaces of the stitch.
STITCH TYPES
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STITCH TYPES:
Stitching Quality is measured with:
1. Stitch size
2. Stitch tension3. Stitch sequence
4. Elongation
5. Elasticity
6. Resilience
7. Fabric distortion8. Yarn severance
9. Abrasive strength
STITCH TYPES
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STITCH TYPES:
STITCH TYPES
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STITCH TYPES:
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