american apparel product development (technical garment sustainability)

American Apparel Product Development

Layla Mostaghimi, Pa Dao Yang, Mariam Shamsid-Deen

American Apparel

Vision: “Guilt free shopping”Mission: To serve as a model for free society that is

both happy and profitable

About American Apparel Vertically Integrated manufacture, distributor,

wholesaler, retailer based in downtown LA Employ approximately 10,000 people globally,

operates 285 retail stores in 20 countries Target market: young metropolitan adult (20-

32) in major urban market with disposable income

Long-term goal: To become #1 in basic apparel (t-shirts, sweatpants, etc.)So that American Apparel the first name that comes to mind.

Vertical Integration Economy, Environment and Consumer

Business Model Focus on manufacturing operations of a small

circle of buildings in Southern California. Scraps

Mixed markers Accessory styles Bag O Scraps Rags Recycling Creative Re-Use

Continued… Solar Panels

150 Kilowatts 15% of energy needs

Organic Line 30,000 lbs. of cotton- Cleaner Cotton Initiative USDA approved Low-impact dying process

Transportation Bike program Bus passes

Product: Wedge Shoulder Chiffon Blouse

Changes

Fiber content Dye process Low impact care 3rd party Packaging Transportation

Fiber Content: 100% Recycled Polyester

What is it? Benefits

Recycle Polyester is polyester that is made from pre- and post- consumer polyester scrap, including water and soda bottle also known as Fortel Ecospun

Reduce waste going to landfills

Create less air, water, and soil contamination

Lessen dependence on oil

Help promote a new recycling stream for polyester clothing that is no longer wearable

Recycling Process

Collect Sort Shred & Compact Wash Melt Finish

SustainTex Founded in 2008 by

Jack Miller & Jerry Wheeler

Product and Service is all about the fabric & F.A.S.T Foot Print

Products: 100% certified Texas

organic cotton Recycled Polyester Blended option

SustainTex Vision: to minimize the environmental and social impacts of the textile industry by creating a strong and growing market for environmentally superior fabrics made in the USA.

Dyeing Process Low impact dyeing

Petroleum based, synthetic dye with higher absorption rate (70-80%) Less water in rinse process and less dye is being run off by the water Do not contain metals (chrome, copper and zinc) The dye and rise water often used again

AirDye “AirDye technology manages the application of color to textiles

without the use of water. It is today's sustainable alternative to traditional dyeing and printing processes.”

Does not pollute water in color application process, by using air instead of water.

Reduces energy = lower costs Do not use: boilers, screen printers, drying ovens or cleaning and

scouring chemicals Gives customers a way to choose style and sustainability at a

reasonable price.

Spring Ready-to-Wear 2010 (WWD) Jeffery Costello & Robert Tagliapietra

Eco-friendly clothes, with out giving up beauty and design

Matched up with AirDye Worked with water color palette and ombre effects

Jersey knits and washed silk http://blog.airdye.com/goodforwater/2009/09/19/rave-reviews-for-costello-tagliapietra-and-airdye-at-new-york-fashion-week/

Low Impact Care

Micro-Poly

Light weight fabric No shrinkage Machine wash hang

dry Wicks away

moisture Helps prevent odor

Nau (now)- sustainable urban and outdoor apparel

Avoid dry cleaning- Perchloroethylene

Cold water wash- full load Avoid Chlorine bleach

Hydrogen peroxide bleach Non-toxic detergents Line dry Product after life

Product Care

3rd Party Certified American Apparel believes being profitable is a social

and environmental successGreen America’s Green Business Certification

-Actively using their business as a tool for positive social change

-Operating a "values-driven" enterprise according to principles of social justice AND environmental

sustainability-Environmentally responsible in the way they source, manufacture, and market their products and run their operations and facilities-Socially equitable and committed to extraordinary practices that benefit workers, customers,

communities, and the environment-Accountable for their work by continually improving

and tracking their progress, and operating with radical transparency in every facet of their business

Packaging Water-based Printing

Eco friendly No plastic Screens cleaned with

just water Not toxic No lead no heavy

metals No ozone depleting

chemicals.

Re-Use Donate to local schools

Sustainable Packaging Coalition Meets performance

and cost It is sourced,

manufactured, transported and recycled

Physically designed to optimize materials and energy

Environmental Programs International: Coalition for Responsible Transportation -

http://www.responsibletrans.org The Clean Truck Initiative (CRT) are private sector members working in partnership

with America’s ports to establish clean action plans to develop and implement industry-supported clean truck protrams that are both environmentally and econmically sustainable

It’s a development with federal and state governments, and local ports around the country - it’s to improve the environmental quality of port communities and ensure that our nation’s ports remain an engine for job creation and a thriving economy

Objectives: Mission: Working with local policymakers and communities to develop innovative

solutions that reduce port truck pollution while maintaining flow of commerce CRT's Five Goals: 1) Develop a pro-active compliance attitude regarding the development

and administration of environmental emission regulations 2) Partner with ports across the country in support of clean air programs 3) Demonstrate our commitment to the environment and the communities

we serve 4) Facilitate the inclusion of industry perspective in legislative and

regulatory activities 5) Continue to build upon the collective strength of the Coalition

Environmental Programs Local: Pier Pass -

http://www.deq.state.or.us/aq/fleet/ A non-profit company created by marine terminal

operations at the ports of Los Angeles and Long Beach in 2005 to address multi-terminal issues such as congestion, security and air quality Discontine Clean Truck Fee Monitoring Traffic Flows Air Emissions Reducing TMF- Traffic Migation Fee Marine Terminal Operations Goods Movement Industry Minimizing daytime traffic congestions Enables truck owners to deliver more loads

Transportation They believe to keep the manufacturer under the same roof to

give the ability to quickly mobilize all departments, to respond directly to changes in the market, and to have complete visibility over their products

This model method is not only effective of the company but also for the environment

When buying a product from American Apparel a smaller portion of the margins goes towards fuel, trans-ocean container ships, middlemen, boxes, pallets and entropy - believing to spend more of the money on paying living wages to their workers, higher quality materials for the garments, and investing in the future for the company

They hold themselves accountable and responsible for their actions to do everything in-house with themselves to ensure adherence with US environmental regulations (effluents, waste disposal, airborne particulate matter, and more)

Module 1 Module 2

Brand Total Score 27.9 44

Product Total Score 45.9 64.5

5

15

25

35

45

55

65

Overall Score

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General Materials Packaging Manufacturing Transportation Use & Service End of Life (EOL)

Module 1 7.1 5.7 0 0 0 7.9 7.1

Module 2 5.7 7.1 4 5 0 7.9 14.3

1

3

5

7

9

11

13

15

Brand

Scor

ed P

oint

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Materials Packaging Manufacturing Transportation Use & service End of Life (EOL)

Module 1 3.8 0.1 7.8 16.7 3.3 14.2

Module 2 6.3 0.3 7.8 16.7 16.7 16.7

13579

11131517

Product

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References http://www.kidbean.com/what-are-low-impact-dyes.html http://fashion.airdye.com/press/Article150_Press_091209_WWD/150_Press_0

91209_WWD.pdf http://fnasf.wordpress.com/2010/10/05/to-dye-for-new-sustainable-ways-of-

dyeing-and-printing-fabric/ http://www.airdye.com/about/what/ http://www.sustaintex.com/our_approach.html http://www.americanapparel.net/ http://www.natural-environment.com/blog/2008/01/24/what-is-ecospun/ http://www.libolon.com/recycled-polyester-1.html http://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/2009/07/14/why-is-recycled-polyester-con

sidered-a-sustainable-textile/ http://www.ecosperformance.com/intelligent-fabrics.aspx

The End